Back from my voyage fantastique in France!
May 18th, 2008, 02:41 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Back from my voyage fantastique in France!
Bonjour!
We have just come back from a fantastic two-week trip in France (6 days in Paris, 2 days in Quercy, 4 days in Dordogne, 2 days near Bordeaux) and wanted to write a short trip report to help others planning a trip in this region (or to bring back wonderful memories to others who have been blessed to visit here).
Since I am still very jetlagged and my brain still seems to be in France, I will be succinct. Here is my trip’s top five for the second week. I will follow with my husband’s top five, our Paris top five and the things we would do differently if we could.
MY TOP FIVE
The Célé Valley, between Cabrerets and Figeac:
Since we wanted to visit Pech Merle and Figeac and did not want to be driving from our base in Montignac, we reserved an amazing chamber d’hôte that I can’t tell enough good things about. We had our own private entry, an amazing spacious room, decorated so beautifully, and with the best view ever, access to a terrasse and a garden. The owners are very kind, and Magali cooks excellent suppers and breakfasts. My favourite place of the trip without a question: http://www.unjardindanslafalaise.com
The drive from Cabrerets to Figeac is outstanding, we stopped at many villages and took breathtaking pictures. As much as I enjoyed the Dordogne, I preferred this area for its ruggedness and less “touristy” feel (except for St-Cirq-Lapopie which felt to me like a Disneyland reconstruction of a French village. Way too touristy for my taste. Don’t even want to imagine what it’s like in the high season).
Canoe trip down the Dordogne:
So so so relaxing. We used the services of http://www.canoe-roquegeoffre.com/. We parked at the base, they drove us just past La Roque Gageac, and we peacefully canoed for 2 hours in the early morning past Beynac, Marqueyssac, les Milandes, etc. We met no other canoe and felt as though we were alone in the world, watching the mist lift from the châteaux. Great moment.
Bassin d’Arcachon: Since we were leaving from Bordeaux, we stayed at a chamber d’hôte in the suburbs of Bordeaux at the end of our trip. On our first day, after the drive from Montignac (via St-Émilion, well worth the detour!), we left our bags in the room and drove straight to Arcachon. Although we had the only rain of our trip that morning, the sun miraculously came out right as we were climbing the stairs of the Dune du Pyla. I fell in love with this area. The beaches are huge and desolate (well in May at least!), awe inspiring. We plan to spend at least 4 days here on our next trip which will probably be focusing on the Pays Basques.
Food, food, food, food! : My favourite part of the trip was driving to markets, filling up our baskets, and finding a pleasant spot to savour our treasure. After visiting the amazing Cahors Saturday market, we stopped at a picnic area just before Souillac which had a wonderful view of the Valley. Wow. Ate the best rôti de porc of my life with Périgord strawberries and cabécou and a glass of Cahors wine. Mmmmm.
Also visited the St-Cyprien market on Sunday. Very bustling and diverse. Bought saucisson, roasted chicken with potatoes, olives, cheese, terrine the canard aux olives, more strawberries, veggies, etc. and drove to Limeuil to picnic by the river, and ate a glace au citron at Trémolat. Heaven.
After reading many good comments on this site, we also reserved at La Meynardie. Found it without a problem after visiting the Eyrignac gardens. The grounds are superb, and the food! Mon Dieu. Definitely a highlight of my trip. I had entrée de deux fois gras maison (to die for), the scallop brochette with vanilla risotto and the delicious nougat glacé. My husband, the cailles salade, the lasagne périgourdine (foie gras, magret and cèpes lasagna) and the trois crèmes brûlées aux fleurs. With our aperitif (we discovered the vin the châtaigne and had it every time we could) and a half bottle of rosé and coffees (that came with MORE small mignardises), I thought the 85 euros were well well worth it. Mmmmmmmmmm
Gîte La Libellule in Montignac: I loved our stay here. Found this gîte on the Internet and chose it because owners seemed very nice and it cost only 35 euros a day. http://gite-lalibellule.com/eng/index.html. We were even more impressed when we got there. Veronica and Stéphane quickly became friends. The gîte offers its own private entrance, terrace and parking. Everything was clean and perfect (the kitchen was better equipped than my own!). We wanted to stay there forever and plan to return. Although it’s 2 minutes from Montignac, which we found to be a pleasant village and 15 minutes from Sarlat, the gite is really in the countryside, no sounds except birds and crickets. Fantastic.
Etc.: I guess I could add Sarlat at night, Bordeaux which surprised me in a very good way, Domme (I understand why many fodorites choose to stay here), Lascaux II, Figeac, old section of Périgueux, our apéro at the Bordeaux Wine House.... but who knows, maybe these will be on my husband’s top five!
More later!
À plus tard!
We have just come back from a fantastic two-week trip in France (6 days in Paris, 2 days in Quercy, 4 days in Dordogne, 2 days near Bordeaux) and wanted to write a short trip report to help others planning a trip in this region (or to bring back wonderful memories to others who have been blessed to visit here).
Since I am still very jetlagged and my brain still seems to be in France, I will be succinct. Here is my trip’s top five for the second week. I will follow with my husband’s top five, our Paris top five and the things we would do differently if we could.
MY TOP FIVE
The Célé Valley, between Cabrerets and Figeac:
Since we wanted to visit Pech Merle and Figeac and did not want to be driving from our base in Montignac, we reserved an amazing chamber d’hôte that I can’t tell enough good things about. We had our own private entry, an amazing spacious room, decorated so beautifully, and with the best view ever, access to a terrasse and a garden. The owners are very kind, and Magali cooks excellent suppers and breakfasts. My favourite place of the trip without a question: http://www.unjardindanslafalaise.com
The drive from Cabrerets to Figeac is outstanding, we stopped at many villages and took breathtaking pictures. As much as I enjoyed the Dordogne, I preferred this area for its ruggedness and less “touristy” feel (except for St-Cirq-Lapopie which felt to me like a Disneyland reconstruction of a French village. Way too touristy for my taste. Don’t even want to imagine what it’s like in the high season).
Canoe trip down the Dordogne:
So so so relaxing. We used the services of http://www.canoe-roquegeoffre.com/. We parked at the base, they drove us just past La Roque Gageac, and we peacefully canoed for 2 hours in the early morning past Beynac, Marqueyssac, les Milandes, etc. We met no other canoe and felt as though we were alone in the world, watching the mist lift from the châteaux. Great moment.
Bassin d’Arcachon: Since we were leaving from Bordeaux, we stayed at a chamber d’hôte in the suburbs of Bordeaux at the end of our trip. On our first day, after the drive from Montignac (via St-Émilion, well worth the detour!), we left our bags in the room and drove straight to Arcachon. Although we had the only rain of our trip that morning, the sun miraculously came out right as we were climbing the stairs of the Dune du Pyla. I fell in love with this area. The beaches are huge and desolate (well in May at least!), awe inspiring. We plan to spend at least 4 days here on our next trip which will probably be focusing on the Pays Basques.
Food, food, food, food! : My favourite part of the trip was driving to markets, filling up our baskets, and finding a pleasant spot to savour our treasure. After visiting the amazing Cahors Saturday market, we stopped at a picnic area just before Souillac which had a wonderful view of the Valley. Wow. Ate the best rôti de porc of my life with Périgord strawberries and cabécou and a glass of Cahors wine. Mmmmm.
Also visited the St-Cyprien market on Sunday. Very bustling and diverse. Bought saucisson, roasted chicken with potatoes, olives, cheese, terrine the canard aux olives, more strawberries, veggies, etc. and drove to Limeuil to picnic by the river, and ate a glace au citron at Trémolat. Heaven.
After reading many good comments on this site, we also reserved at La Meynardie. Found it without a problem after visiting the Eyrignac gardens. The grounds are superb, and the food! Mon Dieu. Definitely a highlight of my trip. I had entrée de deux fois gras maison (to die for), the scallop brochette with vanilla risotto and the delicious nougat glacé. My husband, the cailles salade, the lasagne périgourdine (foie gras, magret and cèpes lasagna) and the trois crèmes brûlées aux fleurs. With our aperitif (we discovered the vin the châtaigne and had it every time we could) and a half bottle of rosé and coffees (that came with MORE small mignardises), I thought the 85 euros were well well worth it. Mmmmmmmmmm
Gîte La Libellule in Montignac: I loved our stay here. Found this gîte on the Internet and chose it because owners seemed very nice and it cost only 35 euros a day. http://gite-lalibellule.com/eng/index.html. We were even more impressed when we got there. Veronica and Stéphane quickly became friends. The gîte offers its own private entrance, terrace and parking. Everything was clean and perfect (the kitchen was better equipped than my own!). We wanted to stay there forever and plan to return. Although it’s 2 minutes from Montignac, which we found to be a pleasant village and 15 minutes from Sarlat, the gite is really in the countryside, no sounds except birds and crickets. Fantastic.
Etc.: I guess I could add Sarlat at night, Bordeaux which surprised me in a very good way, Domme (I understand why many fodorites choose to stay here), Lascaux II, Figeac, old section of Périgueux, our apéro at the Bordeaux Wine House.... but who knows, maybe these will be on my husband’s top five!
More later!
À plus tard!
May 19th, 2008, 03:28 AM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, here it goes. DH’s top five.
Driving in France: Coming from Québec were the roads are notoriously awful, DH couldn’t stop raving at the French roads. So smooth, so clearly indicated, so twisting and turning and breathtaking! The speed limits are more logical than our own (like 130 on the autoroute) and everybody seems to generally observe the limits. Being a very nervous passenger usually, I was the perfect zen sidekick in France (guess this also explains why this made DH’s top five list!). We had a good laugh at signs that say (I translate): Caution, bumpy road ahead, indicating small minute ridges for a few feet (you can’t call them bumps really). We decided that a huge sign should be put up when entering Québec that says: Caution, extremely bumpy roads everywhere. Hold on for dear life.
Cabrerets and Pech Merle: We both fell in love with Cabrerets and the chambre d’hôte I mentioned. DH gives extra points to this area because of Pech Merle. We were absolutely unprepared for the emotion we felt down there. I was a bit concerned going down the stairs since I am somewhat of a claustrophobic, but it was well worth it. It really feels like the most beautiful natural cathedral, and the 15000 year-old footstep is very moving.
St-Émilion area: DH being a big wine enthusiast, he flipped out when the vineyards started rolling by our car window on our drive to Bordeaux. They just do not stop! Between the small winding and steep streets, the wine stores everywhere, and the old church and its courtyard, DH was extremely moved. I think I even saw a teardrop in the corner of his eye!
Visit of Château La Louvière (André Lurton): The owner of our Bordeaux B&B had arranged a visit of vineyard for us. It was a bit tricky to find (thank you, lended GPS!), and the woman who was in charge of the visit seemed to find it a pain in the $*& at first. But once we started talking, she put her guard down and the visit was very interesting. The wine tasting part was DH’s favourite part. She made us taste the same wine from two different years (what a difference) and two wines from the same year, but two châteaux apart (again, small but very noticeable difference). We plan on spending a week next year just on wine tasting and visiting vignobles in this area.
Bordeaux: DH almost preferred Bordeaux over Paris. Since we are both musicians, we had noticed how music was weirdly absent from public areas in Paris (streets, cafés, restaurants, etc.). In Bordeaux, after 30 minutes, DH had heard at least 10 musicians practicing, entered many instruments stores and generally marvelled at the overall spirit of this city. I guess I know where my husband would move were he to come to France! The fact that there are amazing wine stores everywhere, that the quais on the Gironde have been extraordinarily renovated and are now great place to walk (and digest) after supper (Do stop at the miroir in front of the Place de la Bourse and stay until the mist starts. Great idea!), that the zone piétonnière is so big, that the tram works like clockwork and that the ocean is not far away are also major good points!
Next, our Paris top five and what we would do differently.
Driving in France: Coming from Québec were the roads are notoriously awful, DH couldn’t stop raving at the French roads. So smooth, so clearly indicated, so twisting and turning and breathtaking! The speed limits are more logical than our own (like 130 on the autoroute) and everybody seems to generally observe the limits. Being a very nervous passenger usually, I was the perfect zen sidekick in France (guess this also explains why this made DH’s top five list!). We had a good laugh at signs that say (I translate): Caution, bumpy road ahead, indicating small minute ridges for a few feet (you can’t call them bumps really). We decided that a huge sign should be put up when entering Québec that says: Caution, extremely bumpy roads everywhere. Hold on for dear life.
Cabrerets and Pech Merle: We both fell in love with Cabrerets and the chambre d’hôte I mentioned. DH gives extra points to this area because of Pech Merle. We were absolutely unprepared for the emotion we felt down there. I was a bit concerned going down the stairs since I am somewhat of a claustrophobic, but it was well worth it. It really feels like the most beautiful natural cathedral, and the 15000 year-old footstep is very moving.
St-Émilion area: DH being a big wine enthusiast, he flipped out when the vineyards started rolling by our car window on our drive to Bordeaux. They just do not stop! Between the small winding and steep streets, the wine stores everywhere, and the old church and its courtyard, DH was extremely moved. I think I even saw a teardrop in the corner of his eye!
Visit of Château La Louvière (André Lurton): The owner of our Bordeaux B&B had arranged a visit of vineyard for us. It was a bit tricky to find (thank you, lended GPS!), and the woman who was in charge of the visit seemed to find it a pain in the $*& at first. But once we started talking, she put her guard down and the visit was very interesting. The wine tasting part was DH’s favourite part. She made us taste the same wine from two different years (what a difference) and two wines from the same year, but two châteaux apart (again, small but very noticeable difference). We plan on spending a week next year just on wine tasting and visiting vignobles in this area.
Bordeaux: DH almost preferred Bordeaux over Paris. Since we are both musicians, we had noticed how music was weirdly absent from public areas in Paris (streets, cafés, restaurants, etc.). In Bordeaux, after 30 minutes, DH had heard at least 10 musicians practicing, entered many instruments stores and generally marvelled at the overall spirit of this city. I guess I know where my husband would move were he to come to France! The fact that there are amazing wine stores everywhere, that the quais on the Gironde have been extraordinarily renovated and are now great place to walk (and digest) after supper (Do stop at the miroir in front of the Place de la Bourse and stay until the mist starts. Great idea!), that the zone piétonnière is so big, that the tram works like clockwork and that the ocean is not far away are also major good points!
Next, our Paris top five and what we would do differently.
May 19th, 2008, 07:34 AM
#9
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,965
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the warning on Quebec roads. We just moved East to DC area. We've traveled BC and Alberta extensively but haven't spent much time on this side of the Continent. Quebec is on our must see list. I'll think of you when we hit our first pothole.
May 19th, 2008, 02:39 PM
#13
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jojonana, I am very much enjoying your trip report as we are going to the same area in October. I have a couple of questions. We you able to stay four days at Gîte La Libellule in Montignac rather than the whole week? It looks like a lovely place, and the price is really great. But their website quotes prices based on a week's stay.
Also, were you able to get train tickets for a good price on the holiday? We need tickets on Nov. 1st back to Paris and were wondering about the price of tickets on a holiday. The alternative would be driving back to CDG.
Thanks for your help!
Also, were you able to get train tickets for a good price on the holiday? We need tickets on Nov. 1st back to Paris and were wondering about the price of tickets on a holiday. The alternative would be driving back to CDG.
Thanks for your help!
May 20th, 2008, 04:09 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi blh!
We had no problem renting La Libellule for 4 days only. I'm sure Veronica could arrange something for you.
As for the train, it was more expensive than on a regular day, but it was well worth it. Once we figured how much the gaz would cost to drive from Paris + the time we would be spending in trafic jams, the 60 euros we paid for two tickets (instead of about 35) was well worth it.
By the way, I reserved the train tickets online, and since it was a holiday, there were no "Prems". Since we can not have tickets sent outside Europe in those cases, I had them sent to the owner of the apartment in Paris, who left them on our bedside table on our arrival. A great alternative!
We had no problem renting La Libellule for 4 days only. I'm sure Veronica could arrange something for you.
As for the train, it was more expensive than on a regular day, but it was well worth it. Once we figured how much the gaz would cost to drive from Paris + the time we would be spending in trafic jams, the 60 euros we paid for two tickets (instead of about 35) was well worth it.
By the way, I reserved the train tickets online, and since it was a holiday, there were no "Prems". Since we can not have tickets sent outside Europe in those cases, I had them sent to the owner of the apartment in Paris, who left them on our bedside table on our arrival. A great alternative!
May 20th, 2008, 05:45 AM
#16
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jojoana - one more question. I may contact the B&B in Caberets as well.
Which room did you take - the "garden" or the "path" - and was there much difference? Was breakfast incuded in the price? What about the dinner - did you order dinner or was it a menu of the day? These places all sound great!
Which room did you take - the "garden" or the "path" - and was there much difference? Was breakfast incuded in the price? What about the dinner - did you order dinner or was it a menu of the day? These places all sound great!
May 20th, 2008, 10:44 AM
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi! Actually in Cabrerets, we had a new room. It was below the two other rooms. Fantastic view!
I've put my pictures on line at http://picasaweb.google.com/lefermier70
In the album on Quercy, you can see pictures of Cabrerets and Un jardin dans la Falaise.
The pictures of Gite la Libellule are in the album "périgord - 10 mai".
I've put my pictures on line at http://picasaweb.google.com/lefermier70
In the album on Quercy, you can see pictures of Cabrerets and Un jardin dans la Falaise.
The pictures of Gite la Libellule are in the album "périgord - 10 mai".
May 20th, 2008, 10:47 AM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I forgot to answer some of your questions. Breakfast was included in Cabrerets : pancakes, bread and delicious home-made jams (the strawberry-orange-pear was delicious!).
We ate supper there on both nights since it was so good and much more convenient. To give you an example, the first night we had home-made hummous with an apéritif, a duck confit tartelette with salade and caramelized chicken with rice and mushrooms and a pitcher of Cahors wine. For dessert it was a sabayon with strawberries. 20 euros per person.
We ate supper there on both nights since it was so good and much more convenient. To give you an example, the first night we had home-made hummous with an apéritif, a duck confit tartelette with salade and caramelized chicken with rice and mushrooms and a pitcher of Cahors wine. For dessert it was a sabayon with strawberries. 20 euros per person.
May 20th, 2008, 01:45 PM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 752
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for posting the pictures - they are great! Makes me really anxious to go - can't wait!
Do you remember the name of the room that you had at the B&B in Cabrerets? I e-mailed and received a reply that they have availability and they suggested the garden room for 60€. I'm sure it is fine - just wondered about the room you had. Also, your meal sounded wonderful.
Many thanks for all your help!
Do you remember the name of the room that you had at the B&B in Cabrerets? I e-mailed and received a reply that they have availability and they suggested the garden room for 60€. I'm sure it is fine - just wondered about the room you had. Also, your meal sounded wonderful.
Many thanks for all your help!
