Abbydog Report: South of France
Jun 11th, 2005, 09:53 AM
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Abbydog Report: South of France
Sorry all -- it has been suggested that maybe I should post my entire trip report in a single thread, so for those of you who prefer it, here it is:
Greetings! My husband Tommy and I returned last week from two glorious weeks in the south of France, following a sort of figure 8 through the region. After ten months of obsessive research and scouring Fodorite exchanges for tips, I achieved my goal of planning just enough, but knowing just enough to wing it as needed. The results were sometimes mixed (I embarked on some insanely ambitious day trips that I simply can’t explain!) but always satisfying. And I swear by your advice – travel guides sometimes let me down, but your recommendations never did.
Flight: We flew to Marseilles through Paris with one of those notorious 55-minute Air France layovers, and as people often suspect, it is a bit harrowing. By the time we got off the plane, we had about 30 minutes to get from terminal 2D to 2F. Three years ago we did this with the help of a little bus and an Air France attendant who led a flock of us through the twists and turns of the hall, but this time we were on our own, using what I guess are new moving walkways (?). We didn’t even have the number of the gate, but I just ran up to a counter and asked for directions, which worked well until we tried to board a flight to Germany (turns out there’s a 54a and a 54b. . .) We finally made it, and in Marseilles we discovered our luggage did too. There we jumped in our rental car with about 3 Euro in our pockets (just like last time, the cash machine in the Marseilles airport didn’t accept our debit card) and headed to Arles.
Arles: We found the Hotel du Forum with great effort, despite detailed directions from Via Michelin. There’s essentially only one way to get there down a maze of one-way streets, and so one error (such as driving the wrong way along what turned out to be a pedestrian path along L’Arenes) can be fatal. However, once we arrived, practically by process of elimination, the staff relieved us of our car and we embarked on a wonderful three-night stay with our friends from England.
Everyone at the hotel was incredibly helpful, offering Internet access, restaurant recommendations, and directions to anywhere we wanted to go. And we used every inch of the facilities, enjoying an ample breakfast in the dining room, having wine and cheese in the afternoons by the pool and garden, and playing pool in the bar at night. Every morning there I awoke to the sound of church bells, and looked out my window at the birds soaring over a courtyard below behind a jumble of old buildings.
Over two and a half days in Arles we visited the Saturday market, amphitheater, cathedral of St. Trophime, Cryptoportiques (the first Roman construction in Arles, now underground), Museon Arlaten, and Alyscamps. For food we followed the guidance of Fodorites and our hotel staff with great success. We ate just steps from the hotel, enjoying the fantastic ice cream at Soleilis and dinners at La Gueule du Loup, upstairs in a tiny stone house; Paillotte, which has outdoor seating that it was a bit cool to use; and finally, La Chassagnette. I had been reluctant to suggest the latter to my friends because I knew it would require some planning ahead for a group that normally resists structure, but thank goodness I did in the week before our trip! We had a reservation for Sunday evening and arrived early (without a hitch – it’s a straight shot from Arles and all you need is a good eye to catch the sign by the road), enjoying a lovely walk through the gardens and the best meal (14 courses of fanciful tapas) that any of us had ever had.
In short, Arles was the perfect place to begin, surrounding us with a wealth of architectural wonders, entertaining shopping, good food, and lovely open spaces in a town born for walking.
We also took a day trip to St. Remy, stopping first at Les Baux according to Fodorite instructions to arrive early or late in the day. I was startled to discover the wealth of shopping there, and I’m ashamed to admit I found it very distracting. We dutifully climbed to the top to visit the ancient construction and see the incredible views, but then I bought a print of a fig tree, a bedspread, and plenty of olive oil products. I also missed what my husband said was the best part – a church that must have been either the Chapelle des Penitents Blanc or St. Vincent (he’s sketchy on the details but said it was amazing).
From there we stopped at Van Gogh’s asylum, the monastery of St. Paul de Mausole. Very beautiful, and a sobering view of life in these havens for unwanted and difficult people. Across the street we walked around les Antiques, a Roman triumphal arch and memorial to Caesar standing alone by the side of the road. I wanted to visit Glanum as well, but we were tired and headed into St. Remy instead. There we stumbled on lunch at La Cassolette, where for just 12 Euro we each had one of our best three-course meals. Unbelievable!
The Camargue: We left our friends on Monday for our drive through the Camargue, which I wanted to see despite mixed reviews. I concluded that it made for a nice drive and I was happy to see the marshes, birds, horses and flamingoes. I also discovered the Monday Curse, when we found ourselves at the highly recommended Chez Bob just in time for lunch and it was closed! So we drove all the way to Saintes Maries de la Mer where the Gypsies were gathering for their pilgrimage, but indeed it was jammed with campers and so we didn’t stop – it may have offered a unique cultural experience, but I decided you’d probably have to be there for a day or two to take it in and we had about an hour. Instead we traveled on to Aigues-Mortes and walked along the Ramparts, which was very worthwhile for the historic context and views of the salt plains. We never did have lunch, but luckily my husband had already learned to carry a stash of duck sausage, and so with a fresh baguette and bottle of water we had a snack in the car.
Montpellier: We were warned that driving in and out of Montpellier is tough, and it was a challenge during rush hour. We had Via Michelin directions through town, but as was the case throughout the trip, the names of streets and major routes are rarely visible, if posted at all. By some miracle we found Hotel du Parc, which is just beyond the pedestrian zone of the old city a couple blocks from the Cathedrale St. Pierre and Place de la Canourgue.
The hotel is lovely and some of the staff were very friendly and helpful, and best of all they have a parking lot to deposit the car. However, I must say I would have appreciated some warning that our room would be on the first floor just about two feet from a major thoroughfare, producing deafening traffic and choking exhaust fumes throughout much of the day. Room number 4 seems to be the only one with this problem, and even though we booked months in advance we were placed there because “Americans usually have large bags.” There were no other rooms, and since we didn’t want to switch hotels this situation was the only downside of our stay.
Montpellier may not be for everyone, but we loved being in a 17th century university town, with its odd mix of student life and classical architecture. In fact, the one “sight” I had planned on visiting was the famous Musee Fabre (“one of the most important collections of art in provincial France”), which my guide book neglected to mention is being completely gutted in a project that looks to be an undertaking of at least a few years! (According to the tourist office part of its collection can be seen in New York.) But this was only a minor setback – instead we just explored the city and stopped at Place de la Comedie for a coffee to read the paper and listen to an excellent guitarist. We even visited the Polygone, which is an uninspiring shopping mall but has a Monoprix where we found fantastic brebis cheese and little Luminarc shot glasses for gazpacho just like the ones they used at La Chassagnette. Eventually we saw all of Montpellier’s main architectural attractions, gardens, and promenades, and thoroughly enjoyed just being there. On our final morning we took a wonderful ride on the new tram along with the commuters and school children, which afforded those hidden views of the city you can see only from a train and dropped us off at a fun market beside the much-touted faux-Grecian buildings of the new Antigone quarter.
There are great restaurants in Montpellier, but we were thinking we needed to scale back a bit on food after La Chassagnette and even stooped to having pizza (very good, actually) the first night. We did try Le Petit Jardin on the recommendation of my guide book and the hotel (not Fodorites!), and it was a beautiful place to eat in a garden under the trees but the food wasn’t memorable.
We also took one of our more insane day trips from Montpellier; unable to choose between the coast and the hilltowns in the opposite direction, I opted for both. We first navigated our way through the entire city to emerge on the route to Sete, and when we arrived we were happy to find that Wednesday is market day. The city was all abustle, and so we foraged for food among the stalls before walking around the harbor and observing the boats and fishermen. From there I was determined to have lunch in Bouzigues at Cote Bleue (a Fodorite favorite), which would have been about a ten-minute drive if I had a clue how to read a map. Instead it took us over an hour, and when we finally arrived amid my cheers we found it was closed! In a quick recovery we turned to the wonderful seafood restaurant right next door with a pretty deck overlooking the Bassin de Thau, where we watched random fishermen diving for shellfish and the operations of a nearby processing plant.
From Bouzigues we headed to Abbaye de Valmagne, an easy and beautiful drive and an interesting abbey that was saved by virtue of its early conversion to a winery. Then I insisted on driving to St. Guilhem le Desert, which really warranted an entirely separate trip to include the beautiful villages and caves nearby, but our time in the region was running out. It was worth it – the drive was spectacular and the town (and its remote location) are remarkable, although we had just about five minutes in the Abbaye de Gellone before it closed.
Sommieres: En route from Montpellier to Nimes and Pont du Gard, Fodorites had recommended a stop in Sommieres. Thank goodness! This was our favorite town of all. We loved its Roman bridge (circa 19 A.D.), picturesque streets, and a church that we found to be the most beautiful of all for its soaring arches, brilliant stained glass, and painted florettes. We had lunch in Sommieres under the trees, on a stone wall at the edge of the parking lot by the river, happily eating bread, cheese, and sausage with a glass of wine.
I had been to Nimes before so we did not stop, but our route took us right past its amphitheater so that Tommy could have a glimpse. On to Uzes, which is always highly recommended but for some reason didn’t do much for us – maybe because, as on my last visit, my companion didn’t want to take the tour of the Duche. We enjoyed a rest at a café, looked around the cathedral, and walked around town. Next stop, Pont du Gard. What can I say? Well, I last saw it in the pouring rain, and so the view in the brilliant late-afternoon sun was a new and wonderful experience.
Maillane: After visiting Pont du Gard we drove to Mas de la Christine, a delightful farm in Maillane. We had only sketchy directions, but somehow ended up on the one-lane D79 and passed a tiny sign for the farm. Following the dirt road, we found ourselves behind an enormous flock of sheep who were heading home from the fields (with the help of three border collies) to their farm adjacent to our B&B – an occurrence I discovered happens every day.
What an amazing break from city life and road trips! Christien and Caroline Crestin are a warm and welcoming couple who run their B&B more as a home than a hotel. It is beautifully decorated in a setting that is peaceful but not remote – it’s just about 15 minutes from St. Remy. On our first morning there I awoke with the birds and the neighbor’s rooster and took a long walk down the dirt road, taking pictures of the glorious light on the trees and fields, where mist was rising from the grass. Tommy joined me later to pester the sheep (inadvertenly riling the ever-vigilant border collies), and then we took another drive.
I had planned to visit the Abbaye de Montmajour, but somehow we were drawn to the little-noticed Roman aquaduct and flour mill (meunerie?) near Fontvielle, on the recommendation of some French guests at our B&B. These were a little hard to find but very rewarding – the flour mill is unique in Europe, one of 16 that once lined the canal. Due to the canal and a fence, it is impossible to get closer than about 50 feet to the mill, but it was fascinating to see and imagine its operation 2,000 years ago. The aquaduct was impressive too – a jumble of arches and crumbling rock, set in an olive grove and concluding at the edge of a deep valley.
Next we took the scenic drive from Maussane to Eygalieres, with its views of rolling hills and the brilliant white Alpilles. We stopped along the way at Moulin du Mas des Barres, a famous olive mill, and walked through Eygalieres (which, sadly, I have almost completely forgotten). Before returning to the farm, we visited the home of Fredric Mistral in Maillane – a very interesting place for both its mementoes of his life and its representation of a typical Provencale home of his era.
Back home we had a rest and then I walked to the road to lay in wait for the sheep. Soon the shepherd appeared, followed by his huge flock beneath a cloud of dust, accompanied by two skilled border collies who were driving the sheep and extracting them from the ditches beside the road where they tend to collect. I was nearly trampled as the two of them thundered past me on either side, and after a pause reversed course and thundered back. So fun! But of course my favorite was the puppy in training, who trailed after the entire group and paused to jump on my legs and play before setting off again to catch up.
On our first night in Maillane we had a fantastic dinner at L’Oustalet Maianen. The table under a gorgeous arbor was lovely, the service was wonderful (and good humored about my bad French), and the food was among the best we had – especially my entrée of broiled scallops, which could have been an entire meal. The next day we stopped in Maussane for a fabulous lunch on the patio of La Petit France, where the blends of ingredients and flavors were just perfect.
On the second night we had dinner at Mas de la Christine, where Caroline served a wonderful traditional Provencale meal featuring their home-made liquers, including a wine made from thyme. We ate at their huge dining table among about ten guests of various nationalities, and of course my husband’s lack of French did not stop him from mortifying me by frequently contributing to the conversation – prompting assorted French women to beg Jacques, the primary English-speaker, to translate, and eliciting from him a long groan and cry of “it’s exhausting!!”
Luberon Valley: It was the best of times; it was the worst of times. We drove to Isle sur la Sorgue on a Saturday for the sole purpose of waking up in town on Sunday morning for the market. Little did we suspect we would absolutely love this town, built around canals that once powered the many water wheels of its mills, and full of quaint shops and happy ducks. We stayed at the Hotel Lou Soloy (apparently this is Provencale for “le soleil,” or “the sun”), which is perched directly over a canal across from a bridge. We had a wonderful room directly above the canal and an attentive host who immediately booked us with Kayak Vert on the last canoe trip of the day down the Sorgue River from Fontaine de Vaucluse.
The canoe trip was a concession to Tommy, but it was truly a highlight of our visit. Aside from a few stops to haul the canoes over small waterfalls and through some deep, warm mud, it was a peaceful journey down the river under trees, where we could observe old mills, little homes, Sunday bathers, and fishermen wading in the water with a cigarette dangling from their lips.
Back in town, we discovered one restaurant recommended by my guide book no longer exists and so opted for the other option right in town (so we could walk home), La Guerlardiere. This place was an adventure! We had a great dinner (including some wonderful local trout) on the pretty patio beside an old fountain, but one of the most memorable parts is the crumbling old hotel itself (today only a new wing has overnight guests). We stepped inside to see all manner of old clutter, with décor seemingly trapped in a time warp.
Thanks to our location, we were some of the first people to arrive at the Sunday market at 9:00 a.m. – a great decision. We had the full attention of vendors who explained to us everything from the proper use of garlic graters to the production of local wines, and by 11:00 (when the crowds became thick) we were loaded with gifts and ready to hit the road.
Next: another insane road trip. In my visions of the Luberon, I had always divided my time between two afternoons, but as a result of our canoe trip I inexplicably tried to squeeze everything into about four hours. Needless to say, we soon fell way behind and had to skip a good part of my “plan” (maybe next time!) We set out for Gordes, but when I saw the route to the Village of Bories (stone dwellings used as a possible refuge from medieval plagues) I suggested we stop. It took a good bit of time to finally reach the village, and while it was interesting (and awe-inspiring to consider the labor involved in laying a gazillion stones for walls and dwellings) it consumed a big chunk of our day.
So we zipped through Gordes and Roussillon (mainly taking in the views of the approaches to the villages) in favor of a significant detour to visit Oppede le Vieux, a hill town with multiple layers of development spanning about a thousand years. By the time we arrived it was well past lunch time, and I made another fateful decision to eat in a little café (featuring a small table where two stuffed rabbits were enjoying a soda) instead of just nibbling some sausage. It was getting very late by the time we explored the village’s old church and highest levels (and inadvertently trespassed on the private property at the top, where we found the crumbling and off-limits chateau to be by far the most interesting relic with the best views).
Back in the parking lot we realized it was 3:00 and we still had to get to ANTIBES! So, sad to say, we sped through Menerbe, skipped Lacoste, and stopped in Bonnieux just long enough to take a picture at La Terrasse (on Stu Dudley’s recommendation, of course). I shall return!
Antibes: In Antibes we stayed at La Bastide du Bosquet, a beautiful restored mansion in a residential neighborhood between old Antibes and Juan les Pins. It is just a gorgeous oasis, set in a peaceful garden full of birds (and two cats). Our hostess, Sylvie Aussel, presented us with a city map, helpful directions, and a slew of restaurant recommendations, and after a much-needed nap we were off.
We were just a five-minute walk from the gorgeous beach and coastal walkway of Antibes, and about 15 minutes from the market and museums. A highlight for me was the Musee Picasso, which is unique in that you can see the artist’s work in the very place where he produced it, at a very special time when clearly he was almost euphoric over the end of World War II and being in love. We also had a fascinating hike to Plateau de la Garoupe, the highest point in the city where you can see Cannes to the west and Nice to the East. We even managed to stumble on the Commune Libre du Safronier, a famously beautiful little stone road tucked in the middle of the old city.
Strangely, we didn’t eat out much in Antibes. The first night we arrived very late at a lovely place called Le Romantic and the waitress could offer us only one plat before closing; based on what we had I’m sure it would have been a fantastic dinner! During our day in the city, we had lunch at Le Café Jardin, a place recommended by our hostess that we would never have noticed on our own – it looked like a simple storefront, but behind the restaurant is a delightful garden. Another night we walked to the Hotel Belles Rives, where we couldn’t afford dinner but drank Kir at a prime table on the deck overlooking the bay at Juan les Pins. We listened to the pianist playing in the bar while watching the sunset and nibbling olives and bread sticks, and the staff could not have been more gracious. Then we walked into Juan les Pins – full of neon and nightlife and not our cup of tea, but with a park that offered a perfect view of a spectacular pink and purple sky.
Our day trip from Antibes was, again, a bit insane. Our first stop was La Verrerie de Biot, and I could have spent an entire day watching the glassblowers in their studio. It was like watching a dance or listening to jazz, with each of about ten men going about their various tasks and then stepping in, silently, to assist one another at the precise moment when two or three people were needed to finish a piece. Amazing! Next we stopped in Grasse, where we enjoyed the view and I visited some shops, the cathedral (which I enjoyed for its massive, craggy pillars), and hotel de ville while Tommy searched for a newspaper.
We then proceeded to Gourdon, where for once I had perfectly timed our arrival for lunch, this time at Nid D’Aigle (a Stu Dudley favorite). It WAS incredible, perched on the side of a cliff, but alas the Monday Curse struck again. Closed. There was a perfectly good place across the road, but I persevered, taking us along the winding road over an enormous gorge down to Tourettes sur Loup to Auberge La Tourette. Also closed! Still, we liked the town and decided to stop in the local bar on the main drag – no view, lots of noise, and a good dose of diesel exhaust, but one of my favorite experiences. The place was full of locals, and we had fun watching them and eating enormous omelets until Hugo of Burma, a British expatriate, joined us to relate his life story and share a glass of rose.
We walked around town and took in the panoramic view before getting on the 2210 to Vence, where we visited the Matisse chapel. Tremendous. From there I forced poor Tommy, who was fading fast, to stop in St. Paul de Vence, which was en route to Antibes. It’s everything we expected – very cute, very touristy, great views. After some arduous walking up and down its hills, we were relieved to get home and sip some wine in our quiet garden, with the cats.
Cassis: When we left Antibe, we drove around Cap d’Antibes and through Cannes (by somewhat happy accident – it was fun to check out the architecture and shops on the main street) en route to the Esterel, where we took in the magnificent views before getting a bit stuck in traffic at St. Raphael. I read somewhere that Roquebrune provides a nice respite from the coast, and so we drove up there for an excellent lunch at Les Templiers, a very good restaurant in the middle of this quiet village.
Next, Cassis! We loved this place on an afternoon visit three years ago and couldn’t wait to return for two nights at the Mahogany Hotel. It was everything we imagined – we loved sitting on our balcony overlooking the beach and across from a calanque that changed color in the light from dawn to dusk. We had a fantastic boat tour of eight calanques on a perfect day, and we just enjoyed walking around the harbor and the shops, and dipping our feet into the sea (I have no idea how French seniors actually do laps in that frigid water every morning, but I watched them with interest).
For our first dinner, Chez Gilbert (a Fodorite favorite) was closed (!), and we argued about having moules and frites at a bar (Tommy’s choice) or a fancy dinner at Nino (my idea). So we compromised on Restaurant El Sol, a less expensive restaurant that was fine but unexceptional (although I was impressed when the owner stepped forward to shake our hands as we departed).
So the next day I decided to put my fate in Tommy’s hands, and when lunchtime rolled around he said we should get away from the harbor to find a restaurant that was good enough to survive off the beaten path. Voila!! He spotted a bunch of people eating at tables set up in the middle of a tiny street, and there we found Restaurant Le Bonaparte. This was the real deal – three men bustling around a tiny restaurant, where a stream of regulars stopped in for lunch. Tommy had delicious moules and frites and I had a fantastic salade Nicoise and a plat du jour of fresh fish, plus wine and a couple of Dilbert Napoleon brandies (apparently an offering because my main course arrived late) – all for about 21 Euro.
Our final dinner was under the stars and beautiful trees of Le Jardin d’Emile, right next to our hotel. The food here is phenomenal, although we might slightly regret our choice of the special – some fish we never identified with a price tag of 45 Euro for two. When I inquired about it, a raw fish was brought out to me on a platter with some fanfare so I could see how wonderful it was, and so we took the plunge. Indeed, once cooked it was light and fresh and with a nice texture, but very plain, served with some potatoes (in a place that otherwise produces magnificent concoctions of exotic ingredients). The entrees and desserts were more complex. . . All in all it was a lovely end to a wonderful time.
Greetings! My husband Tommy and I returned last week from two glorious weeks in the south of France, following a sort of figure 8 through the region. After ten months of obsessive research and scouring Fodorite exchanges for tips, I achieved my goal of planning just enough, but knowing just enough to wing it as needed. The results were sometimes mixed (I embarked on some insanely ambitious day trips that I simply can’t explain!) but always satisfying. And I swear by your advice – travel guides sometimes let me down, but your recommendations never did.
Flight: We flew to Marseilles through Paris with one of those notorious 55-minute Air France layovers, and as people often suspect, it is a bit harrowing. By the time we got off the plane, we had about 30 minutes to get from terminal 2D to 2F. Three years ago we did this with the help of a little bus and an Air France attendant who led a flock of us through the twists and turns of the hall, but this time we were on our own, using what I guess are new moving walkways (?). We didn’t even have the number of the gate, but I just ran up to a counter and asked for directions, which worked well until we tried to board a flight to Germany (turns out there’s a 54a and a 54b. . .) We finally made it, and in Marseilles we discovered our luggage did too. There we jumped in our rental car with about 3 Euro in our pockets (just like last time, the cash machine in the Marseilles airport didn’t accept our debit card) and headed to Arles.
Arles: We found the Hotel du Forum with great effort, despite detailed directions from Via Michelin. There’s essentially only one way to get there down a maze of one-way streets, and so one error (such as driving the wrong way along what turned out to be a pedestrian path along L’Arenes) can be fatal. However, once we arrived, practically by process of elimination, the staff relieved us of our car and we embarked on a wonderful three-night stay with our friends from England.
Everyone at the hotel was incredibly helpful, offering Internet access, restaurant recommendations, and directions to anywhere we wanted to go. And we used every inch of the facilities, enjoying an ample breakfast in the dining room, having wine and cheese in the afternoons by the pool and garden, and playing pool in the bar at night. Every morning there I awoke to the sound of church bells, and looked out my window at the birds soaring over a courtyard below behind a jumble of old buildings.
Over two and a half days in Arles we visited the Saturday market, amphitheater, cathedral of St. Trophime, Cryptoportiques (the first Roman construction in Arles, now underground), Museon Arlaten, and Alyscamps. For food we followed the guidance of Fodorites and our hotel staff with great success. We ate just steps from the hotel, enjoying the fantastic ice cream at Soleilis and dinners at La Gueule du Loup, upstairs in a tiny stone house; Paillotte, which has outdoor seating that it was a bit cool to use; and finally, La Chassagnette. I had been reluctant to suggest the latter to my friends because I knew it would require some planning ahead for a group that normally resists structure, but thank goodness I did in the week before our trip! We had a reservation for Sunday evening and arrived early (without a hitch – it’s a straight shot from Arles and all you need is a good eye to catch the sign by the road), enjoying a lovely walk through the gardens and the best meal (14 courses of fanciful tapas) that any of us had ever had.
In short, Arles was the perfect place to begin, surrounding us with a wealth of architectural wonders, entertaining shopping, good food, and lovely open spaces in a town born for walking.
We also took a day trip to St. Remy, stopping first at Les Baux according to Fodorite instructions to arrive early or late in the day. I was startled to discover the wealth of shopping there, and I’m ashamed to admit I found it very distracting. We dutifully climbed to the top to visit the ancient construction and see the incredible views, but then I bought a print of a fig tree, a bedspread, and plenty of olive oil products. I also missed what my husband said was the best part – a church that must have been either the Chapelle des Penitents Blanc or St. Vincent (he’s sketchy on the details but said it was amazing).
From there we stopped at Van Gogh’s asylum, the monastery of St. Paul de Mausole. Very beautiful, and a sobering view of life in these havens for unwanted and difficult people. Across the street we walked around les Antiques, a Roman triumphal arch and memorial to Caesar standing alone by the side of the road. I wanted to visit Glanum as well, but we were tired and headed into St. Remy instead. There we stumbled on lunch at La Cassolette, where for just 12 Euro we each had one of our best three-course meals. Unbelievable!
The Camargue: We left our friends on Monday for our drive through the Camargue, which I wanted to see despite mixed reviews. I concluded that it made for a nice drive and I was happy to see the marshes, birds, horses and flamingoes. I also discovered the Monday Curse, when we found ourselves at the highly recommended Chez Bob just in time for lunch and it was closed! So we drove all the way to Saintes Maries de la Mer where the Gypsies were gathering for their pilgrimage, but indeed it was jammed with campers and so we didn’t stop – it may have offered a unique cultural experience, but I decided you’d probably have to be there for a day or two to take it in and we had about an hour. Instead we traveled on to Aigues-Mortes and walked along the Ramparts, which was very worthwhile for the historic context and views of the salt plains. We never did have lunch, but luckily my husband had already learned to carry a stash of duck sausage, and so with a fresh baguette and bottle of water we had a snack in the car.
Montpellier: We were warned that driving in and out of Montpellier is tough, and it was a challenge during rush hour. We had Via Michelin directions through town, but as was the case throughout the trip, the names of streets and major routes are rarely visible, if posted at all. By some miracle we found Hotel du Parc, which is just beyond the pedestrian zone of the old city a couple blocks from the Cathedrale St. Pierre and Place de la Canourgue.
The hotel is lovely and some of the staff were very friendly and helpful, and best of all they have a parking lot to deposit the car. However, I must say I would have appreciated some warning that our room would be on the first floor just about two feet from a major thoroughfare, producing deafening traffic and choking exhaust fumes throughout much of the day. Room number 4 seems to be the only one with this problem, and even though we booked months in advance we were placed there because “Americans usually have large bags.” There were no other rooms, and since we didn’t want to switch hotels this situation was the only downside of our stay.
Montpellier may not be for everyone, but we loved being in a 17th century university town, with its odd mix of student life and classical architecture. In fact, the one “sight” I had planned on visiting was the famous Musee Fabre (“one of the most important collections of art in provincial France”), which my guide book neglected to mention is being completely gutted in a project that looks to be an undertaking of at least a few years! (According to the tourist office part of its collection can be seen in New York.) But this was only a minor setback – instead we just explored the city and stopped at Place de la Comedie for a coffee to read the paper and listen to an excellent guitarist. We even visited the Polygone, which is an uninspiring shopping mall but has a Monoprix where we found fantastic brebis cheese and little Luminarc shot glasses for gazpacho just like the ones they used at La Chassagnette. Eventually we saw all of Montpellier’s main architectural attractions, gardens, and promenades, and thoroughly enjoyed just being there. On our final morning we took a wonderful ride on the new tram along with the commuters and school children, which afforded those hidden views of the city you can see only from a train and dropped us off at a fun market beside the much-touted faux-Grecian buildings of the new Antigone quarter.
There are great restaurants in Montpellier, but we were thinking we needed to scale back a bit on food after La Chassagnette and even stooped to having pizza (very good, actually) the first night. We did try Le Petit Jardin on the recommendation of my guide book and the hotel (not Fodorites!), and it was a beautiful place to eat in a garden under the trees but the food wasn’t memorable.
We also took one of our more insane day trips from Montpellier; unable to choose between the coast and the hilltowns in the opposite direction, I opted for both. We first navigated our way through the entire city to emerge on the route to Sete, and when we arrived we were happy to find that Wednesday is market day. The city was all abustle, and so we foraged for food among the stalls before walking around the harbor and observing the boats and fishermen. From there I was determined to have lunch in Bouzigues at Cote Bleue (a Fodorite favorite), which would have been about a ten-minute drive if I had a clue how to read a map. Instead it took us over an hour, and when we finally arrived amid my cheers we found it was closed! In a quick recovery we turned to the wonderful seafood restaurant right next door with a pretty deck overlooking the Bassin de Thau, where we watched random fishermen diving for shellfish and the operations of a nearby processing plant.
From Bouzigues we headed to Abbaye de Valmagne, an easy and beautiful drive and an interesting abbey that was saved by virtue of its early conversion to a winery. Then I insisted on driving to St. Guilhem le Desert, which really warranted an entirely separate trip to include the beautiful villages and caves nearby, but our time in the region was running out. It was worth it – the drive was spectacular and the town (and its remote location) are remarkable, although we had just about five minutes in the Abbaye de Gellone before it closed.
Sommieres: En route from Montpellier to Nimes and Pont du Gard, Fodorites had recommended a stop in Sommieres. Thank goodness! This was our favorite town of all. We loved its Roman bridge (circa 19 A.D.), picturesque streets, and a church that we found to be the most beautiful of all for its soaring arches, brilliant stained glass, and painted florettes. We had lunch in Sommieres under the trees, on a stone wall at the edge of the parking lot by the river, happily eating bread, cheese, and sausage with a glass of wine.
I had been to Nimes before so we did not stop, but our route took us right past its amphitheater so that Tommy could have a glimpse. On to Uzes, which is always highly recommended but for some reason didn’t do much for us – maybe because, as on my last visit, my companion didn’t want to take the tour of the Duche. We enjoyed a rest at a café, looked around the cathedral, and walked around town. Next stop, Pont du Gard. What can I say? Well, I last saw it in the pouring rain, and so the view in the brilliant late-afternoon sun was a new and wonderful experience.
Maillane: After visiting Pont du Gard we drove to Mas de la Christine, a delightful farm in Maillane. We had only sketchy directions, but somehow ended up on the one-lane D79 and passed a tiny sign for the farm. Following the dirt road, we found ourselves behind an enormous flock of sheep who were heading home from the fields (with the help of three border collies) to their farm adjacent to our B&B – an occurrence I discovered happens every day.
What an amazing break from city life and road trips! Christien and Caroline Crestin are a warm and welcoming couple who run their B&B more as a home than a hotel. It is beautifully decorated in a setting that is peaceful but not remote – it’s just about 15 minutes from St. Remy. On our first morning there I awoke with the birds and the neighbor’s rooster and took a long walk down the dirt road, taking pictures of the glorious light on the trees and fields, where mist was rising from the grass. Tommy joined me later to pester the sheep (inadvertenly riling the ever-vigilant border collies), and then we took another drive.
I had planned to visit the Abbaye de Montmajour, but somehow we were drawn to the little-noticed Roman aquaduct and flour mill (meunerie?) near Fontvielle, on the recommendation of some French guests at our B&B. These were a little hard to find but very rewarding – the flour mill is unique in Europe, one of 16 that once lined the canal. Due to the canal and a fence, it is impossible to get closer than about 50 feet to the mill, but it was fascinating to see and imagine its operation 2,000 years ago. The aquaduct was impressive too – a jumble of arches and crumbling rock, set in an olive grove and concluding at the edge of a deep valley.
Next we took the scenic drive from Maussane to Eygalieres, with its views of rolling hills and the brilliant white Alpilles. We stopped along the way at Moulin du Mas des Barres, a famous olive mill, and walked through Eygalieres (which, sadly, I have almost completely forgotten). Before returning to the farm, we visited the home of Fredric Mistral in Maillane – a very interesting place for both its mementoes of his life and its representation of a typical Provencale home of his era.
Back home we had a rest and then I walked to the road to lay in wait for the sheep. Soon the shepherd appeared, followed by his huge flock beneath a cloud of dust, accompanied by two skilled border collies who were driving the sheep and extracting them from the ditches beside the road where they tend to collect. I was nearly trampled as the two of them thundered past me on either side, and after a pause reversed course and thundered back. So fun! But of course my favorite was the puppy in training, who trailed after the entire group and paused to jump on my legs and play before setting off again to catch up.
On our first night in Maillane we had a fantastic dinner at L’Oustalet Maianen. The table under a gorgeous arbor was lovely, the service was wonderful (and good humored about my bad French), and the food was among the best we had – especially my entrée of broiled scallops, which could have been an entire meal. The next day we stopped in Maussane for a fabulous lunch on the patio of La Petit France, where the blends of ingredients and flavors were just perfect.
On the second night we had dinner at Mas de la Christine, where Caroline served a wonderful traditional Provencale meal featuring their home-made liquers, including a wine made from thyme. We ate at their huge dining table among about ten guests of various nationalities, and of course my husband’s lack of French did not stop him from mortifying me by frequently contributing to the conversation – prompting assorted French women to beg Jacques, the primary English-speaker, to translate, and eliciting from him a long groan and cry of “it’s exhausting!!”
Luberon Valley: It was the best of times; it was the worst of times. We drove to Isle sur la Sorgue on a Saturday for the sole purpose of waking up in town on Sunday morning for the market. Little did we suspect we would absolutely love this town, built around canals that once powered the many water wheels of its mills, and full of quaint shops and happy ducks. We stayed at the Hotel Lou Soloy (apparently this is Provencale for “le soleil,” or “the sun”), which is perched directly over a canal across from a bridge. We had a wonderful room directly above the canal and an attentive host who immediately booked us with Kayak Vert on the last canoe trip of the day down the Sorgue River from Fontaine de Vaucluse.
The canoe trip was a concession to Tommy, but it was truly a highlight of our visit. Aside from a few stops to haul the canoes over small waterfalls and through some deep, warm mud, it was a peaceful journey down the river under trees, where we could observe old mills, little homes, Sunday bathers, and fishermen wading in the water with a cigarette dangling from their lips.
Back in town, we discovered one restaurant recommended by my guide book no longer exists and so opted for the other option right in town (so we could walk home), La Guerlardiere. This place was an adventure! We had a great dinner (including some wonderful local trout) on the pretty patio beside an old fountain, but one of the most memorable parts is the crumbling old hotel itself (today only a new wing has overnight guests). We stepped inside to see all manner of old clutter, with décor seemingly trapped in a time warp.
Thanks to our location, we were some of the first people to arrive at the Sunday market at 9:00 a.m. – a great decision. We had the full attention of vendors who explained to us everything from the proper use of garlic graters to the production of local wines, and by 11:00 (when the crowds became thick) we were loaded with gifts and ready to hit the road.
Next: another insane road trip. In my visions of the Luberon, I had always divided my time between two afternoons, but as a result of our canoe trip I inexplicably tried to squeeze everything into about four hours. Needless to say, we soon fell way behind and had to skip a good part of my “plan” (maybe next time!) We set out for Gordes, but when I saw the route to the Village of Bories (stone dwellings used as a possible refuge from medieval plagues) I suggested we stop. It took a good bit of time to finally reach the village, and while it was interesting (and awe-inspiring to consider the labor involved in laying a gazillion stones for walls and dwellings) it consumed a big chunk of our day.
So we zipped through Gordes and Roussillon (mainly taking in the views of the approaches to the villages) in favor of a significant detour to visit Oppede le Vieux, a hill town with multiple layers of development spanning about a thousand years. By the time we arrived it was well past lunch time, and I made another fateful decision to eat in a little café (featuring a small table where two stuffed rabbits were enjoying a soda) instead of just nibbling some sausage. It was getting very late by the time we explored the village’s old church and highest levels (and inadvertently trespassed on the private property at the top, where we found the crumbling and off-limits chateau to be by far the most interesting relic with the best views).
Back in the parking lot we realized it was 3:00 and we still had to get to ANTIBES! So, sad to say, we sped through Menerbe, skipped Lacoste, and stopped in Bonnieux just long enough to take a picture at La Terrasse (on Stu Dudley’s recommendation, of course). I shall return!
Antibes: In Antibes we stayed at La Bastide du Bosquet, a beautiful restored mansion in a residential neighborhood between old Antibes and Juan les Pins. It is just a gorgeous oasis, set in a peaceful garden full of birds (and two cats). Our hostess, Sylvie Aussel, presented us with a city map, helpful directions, and a slew of restaurant recommendations, and after a much-needed nap we were off.
We were just a five-minute walk from the gorgeous beach and coastal walkway of Antibes, and about 15 minutes from the market and museums. A highlight for me was the Musee Picasso, which is unique in that you can see the artist’s work in the very place where he produced it, at a very special time when clearly he was almost euphoric over the end of World War II and being in love. We also had a fascinating hike to Plateau de la Garoupe, the highest point in the city where you can see Cannes to the west and Nice to the East. We even managed to stumble on the Commune Libre du Safronier, a famously beautiful little stone road tucked in the middle of the old city.
Strangely, we didn’t eat out much in Antibes. The first night we arrived very late at a lovely place called Le Romantic and the waitress could offer us only one plat before closing; based on what we had I’m sure it would have been a fantastic dinner! During our day in the city, we had lunch at Le Café Jardin, a place recommended by our hostess that we would never have noticed on our own – it looked like a simple storefront, but behind the restaurant is a delightful garden. Another night we walked to the Hotel Belles Rives, where we couldn’t afford dinner but drank Kir at a prime table on the deck overlooking the bay at Juan les Pins. We listened to the pianist playing in the bar while watching the sunset and nibbling olives and bread sticks, and the staff could not have been more gracious. Then we walked into Juan les Pins – full of neon and nightlife and not our cup of tea, but with a park that offered a perfect view of a spectacular pink and purple sky.
Our day trip from Antibes was, again, a bit insane. Our first stop was La Verrerie de Biot, and I could have spent an entire day watching the glassblowers in their studio. It was like watching a dance or listening to jazz, with each of about ten men going about their various tasks and then stepping in, silently, to assist one another at the precise moment when two or three people were needed to finish a piece. Amazing! Next we stopped in Grasse, where we enjoyed the view and I visited some shops, the cathedral (which I enjoyed for its massive, craggy pillars), and hotel de ville while Tommy searched for a newspaper.
We then proceeded to Gourdon, where for once I had perfectly timed our arrival for lunch, this time at Nid D’Aigle (a Stu Dudley favorite). It WAS incredible, perched on the side of a cliff, but alas the Monday Curse struck again. Closed. There was a perfectly good place across the road, but I persevered, taking us along the winding road over an enormous gorge down to Tourettes sur Loup to Auberge La Tourette. Also closed! Still, we liked the town and decided to stop in the local bar on the main drag – no view, lots of noise, and a good dose of diesel exhaust, but one of my favorite experiences. The place was full of locals, and we had fun watching them and eating enormous omelets until Hugo of Burma, a British expatriate, joined us to relate his life story and share a glass of rose.
We walked around town and took in the panoramic view before getting on the 2210 to Vence, where we visited the Matisse chapel. Tremendous. From there I forced poor Tommy, who was fading fast, to stop in St. Paul de Vence, which was en route to Antibes. It’s everything we expected – very cute, very touristy, great views. After some arduous walking up and down its hills, we were relieved to get home and sip some wine in our quiet garden, with the cats.
Cassis: When we left Antibe, we drove around Cap d’Antibes and through Cannes (by somewhat happy accident – it was fun to check out the architecture and shops on the main street) en route to the Esterel, where we took in the magnificent views before getting a bit stuck in traffic at St. Raphael. I read somewhere that Roquebrune provides a nice respite from the coast, and so we drove up there for an excellent lunch at Les Templiers, a very good restaurant in the middle of this quiet village.
Next, Cassis! We loved this place on an afternoon visit three years ago and couldn’t wait to return for two nights at the Mahogany Hotel. It was everything we imagined – we loved sitting on our balcony overlooking the beach and across from a calanque that changed color in the light from dawn to dusk. We had a fantastic boat tour of eight calanques on a perfect day, and we just enjoyed walking around the harbor and the shops, and dipping our feet into the sea (I have no idea how French seniors actually do laps in that frigid water every morning, but I watched them with interest).
For our first dinner, Chez Gilbert (a Fodorite favorite) was closed (!), and we argued about having moules and frites at a bar (Tommy’s choice) or a fancy dinner at Nino (my idea). So we compromised on Restaurant El Sol, a less expensive restaurant that was fine but unexceptional (although I was impressed when the owner stepped forward to shake our hands as we departed).
So the next day I decided to put my fate in Tommy’s hands, and when lunchtime rolled around he said we should get away from the harbor to find a restaurant that was good enough to survive off the beaten path. Voila!! He spotted a bunch of people eating at tables set up in the middle of a tiny street, and there we found Restaurant Le Bonaparte. This was the real deal – three men bustling around a tiny restaurant, where a stream of regulars stopped in for lunch. Tommy had delicious moules and frites and I had a fantastic salade Nicoise and a plat du jour of fresh fish, plus wine and a couple of Dilbert Napoleon brandies (apparently an offering because my main course arrived late) – all for about 21 Euro.
Our final dinner was under the stars and beautiful trees of Le Jardin d’Emile, right next to our hotel. The food here is phenomenal, although we might slightly regret our choice of the special – some fish we never identified with a price tag of 45 Euro for two. When I inquired about it, a raw fish was brought out to me on a platter with some fanfare so I could see how wonderful it was, and so we took the plunge. Indeed, once cooked it was light and fresh and with a nice texture, but very plain, served with some potatoes (in a place that otherwise produces magnificent concoctions of exotic ingredients). The entrees and desserts were more complex. . . All in all it was a lovely end to a wonderful time.
Jun 13th, 2005, 01:34 AM
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I truly enjoyed reading your report and am so happy you enjoyed our "neck of the woods"...
If I'd known when you were coming, I'd have stood outside and waved as you passed my house on your way to the Mas des Barres.
LOL !
Patricia
If I'd known when you were coming, I'd have stood outside and waved as you passed my house on your way to the Mas des Barres.
LOL !
Patricia
Jun 13th, 2005, 08:39 AM
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It's a lovely report. I'm amazed that you trundled through so many of the bigger towns without having those "exhausting, getting lost" experiences. We bypassed Arles, Nimes, Montpelier, Aix, etc, for that reason. The calenque boat ride is something I would like to try someday.
Jun 14th, 2005, 01:59 AM
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We felt pretty comfortable driving through all kinds of towns only after a couple of other trips to France where we were based in a country house and took day trips from there. For this trip, we felt ready to move from place to place so we'd have the experience of waking up in a variety of different places and exploring on foot. We definitely worked up to this! And it is much more tiring than having a single base. I think next time I'd like to go for two weeks and spend at least four days in each place. . .
Jan 2nd, 2006, 02:27 AM
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Hi
I seem to have missed this when it was first posted.
Part of the trip probably took you through my village !
I've been suggesting Sommieres for some time - so it is good someone has been and found it worthwhile.
And I've also suggested taking the tram into Montpellier ! The problem is that much of the centre is pedestrian and the surrounding roads are mostly random one way streets. Add to this further closures connected to the construction of a new tram line ............ the tram makes sense.
It is actually cheaper to take the tram rather than pay for city centre parking.
As it happens, I will be in Sommieres today, and Montpellier on Wednesday morning. Weather today is cloudless skies, but chilly nights.
Photos of the area are here :
http://www.the-languedoc-page.com/ph...hoto-index.htm
Peter
I seem to have missed this when it was first posted.
Part of the trip probably took you through my village !
I've been suggesting Sommieres for some time - so it is good someone has been and found it worthwhile.
And I've also suggested taking the tram into Montpellier ! The problem is that much of the centre is pedestrian and the surrounding roads are mostly random one way streets. Add to this further closures connected to the construction of a new tram line ............ the tram makes sense.
It is actually cheaper to take the tram rather than pay for city centre parking.
As it happens, I will be in Sommieres today, and Montpellier on Wednesday morning. Weather today is cloudless skies, but chilly nights.
Photos of the area are here :
http://www.the-languedoc-page.com/ph...hoto-index.htm
Peter
Jan 24th, 2006, 01:46 PM
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>>Does the tram go from the train station to the place de Comedie? <<
Yes, but it's only a 2 block walk. The blocks are somewhat long, so it's perhaps a 3 "normal" block walk.
Stu Dudley
Yes, but it's only a 2 block walk. The blocks are somewhat long, so it's perhaps a 3 "normal" block walk.
Stu Dudley
