ICE, ICE, BABY

While sailing to our next destination that will have us navigating around icebergs, we get an opportunity to attend another informative lecture.

All right stop collaborate and listen ….

This time it is on ice. Earth Ice, Ice Shelf, Ice Crystals, Icebergs and Glaciers.

Joining the lecture in progress, I am glad to see there is a comedian on board the ship. A question is presented by the lecturer which asks. Which is greater by mass all the life on earth or all the ice?

The room bursts into laughter as the comedian responds, cows!

Did you know 95% of the earth's ice is glacial or that some of the bases of the glaciers in Antarctica are over one hundred thousand years old?

I am looking forward to seeing tomorrow some of the things that are discussed in the presentation. In particular “Blue Ice” which is formed over thousands of years when ice crystals interlock and there is no air spaces between them.

This trip is turning out not only to be fun and adventurous but educational as well.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siME6520_Nw

I GO WALKING

While most of my fellow passengers have retired for the evening, I am having a Patsy Cline moment and go for a walk.

In stretching my Patsy Cline moment, it is well past midnight by the time I make my way to the bridge of the Akademik Ioffe. From earlier visits in the day, I have befriended a few of the officers on the bridge and they welcome my company.

Off in the distance, I am told is another ship. It is the first one we have seen since leaving the Beagle Channel in Argentina four days ago.

From the signature on the Ioffe's radar display, it is believed the ship is the National Geographic Explorer.

We have now traveled so far south than even at midnight there is a fair amount of light and a sliver of the fading sun can be seen over the horizon.

As we head towards West Antarctica, I am told we are in the Gerlache Strait between New Scotland Island and the Antarctic Continent.

Again, the experience of a life time continues even past midnight.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beJvAFnz4fg

ZODIAC BUSINESS CLASS

This morning my planned after the crowd is gone arrival to the “Mud Room” is about to pay dividends. A zodiac final boarding announcement is being made as I am headed that way.

So far, I am the only one in the zodiac queue. This gives me an opportunity to chat it up with Emily another of the great Quark Expedition staff members. Emily runs the on board gift shop but I make no promises to visit as I am not a NBS (Natural Born Shopper). She makes another final boarding announcement but the status quo remains.

Today, I am the sole passenger on the zodiac with Jimmy the zodiac driver although he is also a marine biologist with a specialty in whales.

Leaving the Ioffe, I can witness some of the various ice formations that were talked about in the presentation that I attended last night.

As we race by kayakers enjoying a beautiful morning on the relatively calm seas, areas of “Blue Ice” can be seen along the shore line.

Along the way we pass small pieces of ice that have made their way to seas from the sounding frozen landscape. In some areas down here frozen sheets of ice can be found that are up to 30 miles long.

Just before our landing we stop at a group of zodiacs to pick up a few “riff raffs” that are anchored just of shore. Dr Timor, the ship's doctor, the zodiac mechanic and a few others.

My Business Class ride ends as I am welcomed to our landing spot by Lynn our Expedition Leader. Even without dinner, wine or a movie, I am one lucky passenger. This has been “The Best Business Class” ride I have ever taken.

Wait, is that a colony of Gentoo Penguins I see in the distance?

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mP0f1zceJdo

NO HEAD PLANTING

Arriving at Nelson Bay, I quickly see one reason to give snow shoeing a try. Damien, one the expedition staff members is in the process of digging out one of the passengers who is stuck knee deep in the snow.

Damien, later confesses he is was more worried about losing the boot than the passenger. With the coming of summer he figures sooner or later she would be rescued by a passing ship.

He cheerfully tells us that Quark does offer a “Stuck Passenger Rescue Supplement”.

It is about in the 40's with crystal clear skies and serene winds as I get instructions from Damien on fitting and using snow shoes. He somewhat promises that they will prevent us from head-planting as we trek around in the snow.

I end up in a pair of fashionably red ones and start conquering the snow beneath my feet. Remembering how exhausting it was sinking up to my knees on Half Moon Bay yesterday, I am glad this seems to be working.

Initially, I stay on the path as I take in another set of gorgeous Antarctica views. A fellow snow shoer is off in the distance navigating foreign terrain but scares off a colony of penguins in the process. I remain still to give them the right of way should our paths cross.

Continuing my exploration, I leave the beaten path to give way to shoeless trekkers and my victory over the snow is short lived. Somewhere at the bottom of two feet of snow is a “Ruby Red” shoe, I guess I am not in Kansas anymore.

Recovering my shoe, a beautiful blue color reflects back at me from two to three feet below the surface. Refitted, I return to following “The White Snow Road”.

I am not off to see the Wizard, I am off to see one “Cool Gentoo”.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5glhZVFNQwI

Snowshoeing looks fun (other than losing one!) and no head plants, I gather. Bravo!

Snowshoes have certainly changed and streamlined. I was expecting to see what I guess are now obsolete shoes that looked like giant tennis rackets. LOL Thanks for the penguin shots. Always enjoy watching these wonderful creatures!

LeslieS,

The snowshoeing wasn't as successful as I would have hoped. I guess the warm temperature contributed as the snow was getting soft.

Also, I found it difficult to do the moonwalk :)

Gionvanna,

That's what I was also expecting concerning the shoes. However, with the tennis racket type you have to worry about head-planting :(

A GENTOO NATION

Being in Antarctica at the beginning of December, we are starting to experience the warming effects of spring. It is in the 40's as we make our landing at Nelson Bay where Gentoo penguins are starting their migration here.

At the top of a hill where the snow has started to melt a small colony is forming. You can tell this is where they have set up shop as the snow here now has an orange brown color to it and is smelly.

There is a bit of penguin conversation going on as I watch from the distance. I think the discussion has to do with who is going to clean up the mess around here.

Most of the penguins in this area are covered in filth and it is easy to spot the ones that have just arrived or returned from a nearby swim.

The Gentoo Nation is taking shape but I am afraid it will take a strong stomach to stand the stench when the Nation is at full strength.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNBN37Gis6c

Hmmm....I do always picture nature in its pristine state. And penguin poo is not part of that vision in my head. I wonder how different it will be by the middle of January when we're there. Surprising to hear 40 degree temps for you - maybe I can stop buying long johns and glove liners.

LeslieS,

I don't know if we just got lucky but throughout the trip we had pretty decent weather. However, sweating in my layered attire did surprise me on a few landings.

You may need to bring a clothes-pin and oxygen in January for some of your landings. The colonies are just starting to gather steam in December. I understand some of the places we visited would be covered with penguins in a few weeks which also means the area would covered in you know what :(

Ha- can't wait! They certainly don't show that in the brochures, do they? Only pure white snow.
Oh well, it's all good - all natural and maybe just requires some extra hosing down when we get back on the ship! :&

ICEBERGS, UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL


On clear days while crossing the North Atlantic I have seen many icebergs of the coast of Greenland but it has always been from at least 30,000 feet at speed of over 500 miles per hour.

This afternoon I am at sea level onboard the Akademik Ioffe as it is navigating a field of icebergs. I feel like “I'm the king of the world” as we cruise by these fantastic natural pieces of artwork.

Soon the Ioffe drops anchor and we are off on an afternoon zodiac tour. Our tour brings us up close and personal to these works of nature that may have taken thousands of year to create. I have the good fortune to be on a zodiac driven by Lynn our expedition leader who shares her wealth of iceberg knowledge with us.

It is mesmerizing being so close to some of these icebergs that I almost want to dive into the aqua blue pool that is created inside some of them.

I imagine for most people like myself, icebergs are thought about in a negative way because of the titanic type destruction they can cause. However, today my mind is changing. I think so would Rose’s if she had a chance to experience them like we are doing this afternoon.

Jack, I want you to draw me an iceberg like you did your French girls and the Eiffel Tower …

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMwLg2P6HrQ

A FLORIDIAN ON ICE

Somewhere far from the Miami Heat, I find myself quietly drifting in a sea of ice. Close by, I can hear only breathing and small chatter. However, in the distance a grumbling can be heard that is soon followed by a crashing sound.

I am sitting in a zodiac in Nicholas Bay, Antarctica along with a few fellow explorers witnessing nature's ice cold beauty and awesomeness. As part of a thousand plus year old glacier falls into the ocean the small chatter turns to woos and excitement. Even birds are thrilled by this action as it means an opportunity for feeding time.

At our distance the falling pieces creates a peaceful rolling motion on the sea beneath us. So gentle that the surface of the water is not even disturbed. If not for the limitation of time, it is a scenery one could enjoy forever under the warming sun and clear blue skies.

Soon the zodiac motor comes to life and we are off exploring more of Nicholas Bay. What my cameras do not capture my mind does and I hope it lasts a lifetime. Another wonderful and amazing experience in Antarctica.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANAFdpZ9TPw

A 3 HOUR TOUR, A 3 HOUR TOUR

As we set out on our 3 Hour Tour the weather is getting nice and I have no fear of being stranded on a deserted island. There is no Skipper, Gilligan, Professor, Ginger or Mary Ann. What a shame!

Nonetheless, there are Aussie's Peter and Sue, Peter from Germany, An Expedition Leader and The Bahamian too.

The weather is unbelievable warm with clear clear rich blue skies above and calm winds. Aboard a zodiac we get close up view of icebergs and glaciers that add to our already amazing experience.

We are in Nicholas Bay home to one of the many scientific stations in Antarctica. Most are active only during the Spring and Summer months. Today, the absence of an Argentine flag tells us it is currently unoccupied.

With the warming weather areas of green vegetation can be seen growing on the rocky coastline. Nearby, a colony of penguins, Gentoos, have gathered on a rock soaking up a few sun ray's.

Cruising by icebergs occasionally we spot a seal or two relaxing. Often, they raise their heads to welcome us and express curiosity as we approach for a closer look.

In the protection of a bay surrounded by mountains and towering glaciers the water becomes even calmer. The zodiac glides through fields of brackish ice that have made their way down from the glaciers.

We are fortunate at one point to witness a piece of a glacier fall into the bay. Moments later we sense it's effect on the bay as the water take on a gentle rolling motion. Up closer the ride would have been a little more interesting.

In some areas of the bay, Lynn our zodiac driver turns off the engine and allows our boat to just drift along. The peacefulness and arresting beauty takes my breath away.

Dipping my hand in the refreshingly cold water returns my breathing as I retrieve what could be a thousand year or older piece of ice.

Continuing our tour brings us along a shoreline where birds are nesting in an area with more vegetation. Although the vegetation is just ground cover it adds a nice tropical mix to the surrounding scenery.

As we make our way back to the Akademik Ioffe, we come within mere feet of more spectacular icebergs. Towering white with awesome shapes above the water and shades of brilliant blues just beneath the surface.

Finding a reasonable size broken off from one of these monstrous works of nature, it is hauled into the zodiac. Later this afternoon we will get to taste a piece of our captured treasure, complimented maybe by a fine scotch or beverage of our choosing.

Approaching the Akademik Ioffe it is hard to believe our 3 Hour Tour is over. Waiting our turn to board, I am thinking I could spend a few good months deserted here even if it is just with Thurston Howell, The Third.

Slideshow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SWEkrxMTAk

Cool! Lucky you -- I didn't see a single glacier calving the whole time I was down there. Thanks for posting the video!

Absolutely gorgeous DMB! Memories you will have with you always. Loved the shots of the penguin, sea lion and gull. The icebergs, as you said works of art, were absolutely beautiful. Thanks again for sharing.

Ditto to what Giovanna said.

SPT, Yes I think I was very lucky on my trip. The sightings and the weather was amazing. My "Flip" did a decent job capturing the scenery but I wish I had could get a close up of the calving. However, seeing and hearing them live was awesome.

Giovanna & Treesa,

Seeing the gulls were a bit of surprise to me. I usually associate gulls with seagulls which to me equals tropical.

The blue colors and varying shapes of the icebergs were interesting. Must be a sight to see when they break off from glaciers. Some that we went by were pretty huge.

Lots of nice memories made and a few more to share :)