I was reading a bit more on the Polar Star, and I remembered considering taking this ship last year: it's actually a former Swedish icebreaker, so it's probably among the most seaworthy and ice-worthy of the ships doing these trips. Because of that, though, they do itineraries that go farther south than most other cruises, including this one that goes south of the Antarctic Circle. Farther south means going into much less explored waters, and uncharted rocks and ship hulls don't get along very well. Anyway, glad everyone was OK, and there was no environmental damage, either.

Back to DMBTraveler's report! Eagerly awaiting the next installment...

SPT,

Thanks for the report on the Polar Star. With all the navigation tools available today like GPS these incidents should not be happening.

On my trip one of the expedition staff was on the ship that sank a few years ago and he provided some insights into Antarctic operations that were very interesting.

All I can say for now is EXPERIENCE COUNTS. Details at 11..!

Now back to our regularly scheduled posting :)

A PLEASANT SURPRISE

We started the morning of Day 3 at sea under gray clouds with howling winds and freezing temperatures, this evening it is a different story in many ways.

From inside my cabin I can see the weather has improved dramatically. There are now blue skies as I take in a port hole view of a frigid, rugged and snow covered island that I cannot wait to step foot on.

In a surprise to all of us, some time around 7pm a clanking, grinding noise can be heard coming from the front of the Akademik Ioffe. The Ioffe has come to a complete stop and it's anchors are being lowered to the ocean floor.

The public address system blares announcements in Russian, apparently from the ship's Captain then comes a language that most of us could understand.

With an underlying excitement in her voice our Expedition Leader Lynn announces that we will be making our first landing in Antarctica.

This will be a brief landing and it will be done shortly after dinner. However, you can only imagine the exhilaration this brings.

We will be making a landing sooner than most of us expected. A dream now even closer to coming true.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0k_Jx95tVUo

GETTING LAYERED

With our first Antarctica landing just moments away it is time to get dressed for the occasion and “I don't have a thing to wear”. OMG!

As we have been briefed earlier, part of staying comfortable on our outings is to dress using a layered approach. On the zodiacs we will be facing the elements and will need to do all we can to stay dry and warm.

The parka provided by Quark is quiet comfortable but I will have several layers of clothing on beneath it. Once dressed a special zodiac life vest is also worn.

All dressed except for shoes, I head to the “Mud Room” where my waterproof boots I tried on earlier are waiting for me.

I think like me they are ready to do some walking.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEOaZmtGBH0

OUR FIRST LANDING

Our first zodiac disembarkation goes as smooth as ice. One can tell the Quark Expedition group here has done this many times before. No surprise to me, it is a well run professional operation.

The zodiac ride is about 10 minutes to our landing spot and most of the zodiacs are filled like cans of sardines. Initially, the sea is a bit choppy but this makes for an exciting ride as a few of us get an occasional spray of the frigid Antarctic waves.

Pulling into Yankee Harbor, named after a 1900's American whaling ship from the Boston area, the seas become calm and as our zodiac slows I can almost see straight to rocky bottom. The water is almost crystal clear.

I am in one of the last zodiacs to arrive in Yankee Harbor and most of my fellow passengers have already spread out around the island exploring. Within a few feet of our landing there are penguins along the shore being penguins. Some walking around while others enjoy a late evening swim.

The wind is howling and the temperature is pretty cold, a fitting welcome for our brief visit. The animals seem not in the least bothered by our visit. Standing still a cute little penguin just waddles by me. In the distant, elephant seals seem just as curious about me as I am about them.

The cold temperatures and practically barren land are part of what I expected to see on our visit. What surprises me are the isolated areas of growing green ground cover. As low as the thermometer is now reading, it hard to imagine it is the beginning of spring here.

It is also an active part of the mating season and a couple of birds are not too embarrassed to remind us of that fact.

Walking near the shoreline some artifacts from the 1900's “Whaling Industry” still remains. Barrels that were used to boil and separate the animal fats can still seen in a rusting state of decay. Fortunately, there is now a somewhat active program to clean up these areas.

It is now about 9:30pm and there is still a fair amount of daylight remaining. We have traveled far enough south that we are now getting the benefit of longer daylight hours.

Our return to the Ioffe is a fun ride as we navigate the swelling waves of the open seas. Behind ski masks and hooded parkas, I think there are lots of smiles as we have just experienced a small piece of what Antarctica has to offer and it was quite amazing, wow!


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmEK0vuFXmA

How exciting! Thank you for taking me with you, at least through the video. I assume the penguins were Gentoo. Is that correct? One of the best experiences of my life was walking among the Magellanic penguins at Punta Tombo, Argentina. What amazing creatures.

Aren't the elephant seals incredible? We live not too far from Ano Nuevo State Reserve where they congregate annually. We toured the area once years ago and thoroughly enjoyed seeing the old bulls, the "mothers" and the blobby weaners.

So glad you're having such a wonderful trip. Thanks again for the penguins, they're favorites of mine.

Giovanna,

I think you are correct, Gentoos. They sure were fun to watch especially when they just flopped over every now and then.

The Elephant Seals seemed to be such "Gentle Gaints". I almost felt like they wanted to get up and give me a hug.

More penguin pictures and videos to come :)

I look forward to them!

DMBT - Quark was my first choice but sticker shock made me go with Hurtigruten instead. If I could've dealt with sharing a bathroom the Quark pricing would've been easier to handle but...I guess I'm weird that way, need my own, especially if I potentially could be dealing with seasickness! TMI - sorry!

Would you consider sharing your packing list at some point? I know there are some things I still need to buy but wonder if certain items would really be used - -like a balaclava?

Love hearing about the goosebumps on top of goosebumps!
I can picture everyone on your zodiac on the ride back with huge smiles under their scarves.

I've always thought elephant seals were seriously homely but I'm going to try to adjust my attitude and not judge so harshly especially on their home turf! They probably think we're not too pretty either.

SPT - Interesting additional info on the Polar Star. And having the passengers picked up by the Marina Svetaeva - nice that there is company down there and you're not totally alone if something goes wrong a la Shackleton.

Leslie,

I will make a posting about my packing and suggestions soon. I think you are adventurous enough that crossing The Drake Passage and being on the open seas with the right meds will be a walk in the park for you.

Interestingly, I had the shared bathroom to myself most of the time. It did help taking showers when everyone else was dining or at midnight :)

HALF MOON BAY, OUR SECOND LANDING

The day begins with an early get up, however from being outside I can already tell it is going to be rewarding. The seas are as calm as can be while the air is cool and fresh. Isolated white clouds move against a rich deep blue sky as the morning sun shines a blinding reflection on the surrounding white landscape.

As if absorbing the scenery is not consolation enough, we are soon about to embark on our second Antarctic landing. Although the first zodiac will be leaving around 6am, I am in no hurry to be first in line. I am more comfortable getting to the “Mud Room” after the first or second wave of passengers have cleared out.

Boarding one of the last zodiacs, we are soon crossing the open waters traveling around 20-25 miles per hour. The cool wind whips the unzipped flaps of my parka but otherwise I am cozy for the boat ride. The zodiac produces an occasional spray as it is maneuvered, racing away from the Akademik Ioffe.

Yellow spots are spread over a bright white background as we approach our landing spot on Half Moon Bay. We are welcomed by Lynn our Expedition Leader and told to have a good morning while being free to enjoy the island. I set off to join up with a few yellow spots.

For the most part, I am fortunate that a trail has already been made in the fresh and mostly untouched snow. An occasional misstep and I find myself sinking up to my knees in fresh powder. At first, this is fun then it becomes exhausting. I quickly learn to stay on the beaten path as much as possible.

A bright sun warms the clear air and ironically I am almost beginning to sweat on Antarctica. As if to keep my expectations in line, gray clouds in the distance are producing snow showers on a nearby island. The winds are kind enough to send some of the snow flakes our way.

Our walk this morning will take us on a semi circle tour of Half Moon Bay with a brief stop at an abandoned Argentina Scientific Research Center at the midpoint. Along the way we pass a few seals basking in the sun and groups of penguins wearing helmets. On the waterway next to the island, kayakers from the Ioffe are taking in another view of the stunning scenery.

By the time I reach the Argentina Research I am near the point of exhaustion from climbing a hill while seemingly not being able to avoid frequently sinking up to my knees in snow. However, there is a reward in climbing up a snow hill, I get to go down it, sliding on my butt. Now, that was fun!

A short trek across more snow and I am listening to the sounds of gentle crashing waves on a pebble covered beach. I can feel the beach pebbles beneath my insulated feet as I walk along the water's edge. A quick commotion and a few tails break the water surface then a black and white body emerges a couple of feet from me. I stand still and watch. Not finding too much of interest, it's a brief visit on land then the cute black and white creature makes a graceful return to the sea.

Enough of walking, I spend the last of my time on Half Moon Bay sitting on the snow half way between the water and a colony of penguins on a hill above me. I watch as a few of them take a ritual walk up and down the hill. Sometimes solo, sometimes in pairs.

Going downhill most of them are dirty from standing in penguin “orange red” poop which comes from eating krill. Returning they smell like roses.

Interestingly, a few of them come back carrying pebbles from the beach below. These are used for nest building.

I know there is more of Antarctica for us to experience but it is so comforting here that our 9:30am last zodiac departure seem to come too quickly.

I reluctantly make my way down to the launching area and look forward to our next landing on Deception Island this afternoon.


Slideshow (1:43 Minutes)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Od5ac_dR1W4

Video (8:29 Minutes)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cG_teu_8TXo

Another great landing. Chinstrap Penguins this time I think. What a wonderful time you're having DMBtraveler.

Keep up this great trip report! I'm loving it... I'm impressed you've made little videos of everything.

@Leslie_S -- I read your thread about choosing itineraries, so I guess you were looking at the Polar Star as an option, too... I really really really need to do a trip report, but don't have time at the moment. DMBTraveler's report, and eenusa's before that, do a fantastic job of capturing the feel of the place and the trips. Maybe I can find time to do a report just on the gear I brought, what worked, what didn't... Specifically for the balaclava -- you don't need one per se, but I brought two and wore them a LOT (only one at a time -- one was spare). If you don't bring one, definitely have something else to keep your face warm (like a scarf -- but be careful not to lose it, as it can be windy), as well as a warm hat. Sometimes, as DMBTraveler noted, if it's sunny, you might be sweating and overheating; but other times, this icy wind cuts through you.

@Leslie_S -- When you mention "having company" and "Shackleton"...

For the most part, you feel totally isolated, but often we'd see other ships on the radar, beyond visual range. Antarctic tourism actually is getting kind of crowded, but the various ships work together so that you don't have more than one ship at a landing site. And given the realities of the environment, people try to help each other out. On my trip, we were trying to navigate a much larger area of ice than forecast and ended up hooking up with an 800 passenger cruise ship on the other side of a floe of ice. They had a Canadian ice pilot onboard, and the two ships turned to parallel headings for a couple hours, to help each other look for leads through the ice. In an emergency, things CAN be bad, but so far, other ships have always been able to provide assistance. Back in the Shakleton days, wow... I did a South Georgia itinerary, and we had a replica of the James Caird aboard (DMBTraveler, was that still on the Ioffe? I don't know if that goes with the ship, or with One Ocean, or one of the guides). Tiny ship, and I can't imagine sailing from Antarctica to South Georgia, and then hiking across the glaciated peaks, after months of starvation...

Speaking of crowding, and hiking on South Georgia: our planned itinerary included a short hike duplicating the last leg of Shackleton's hike, from one bay over to the next one at Stromness. As we approached our landing site, we discovered that another ship had broken the pre-arranged schedule, and instead of going to Grytviken as scheduled, where we had just left and was gorgeous, they grabbed our next spot, blocking us out and thwarting the plans for the hike. Grr... That ship was the MS Delphin, and I made a mental note to never travel with that company, whoever they were. When looking up the Polar Star the other day, I stumbled into some stuff about the Delphin -- looks like a great trip they had, but then the operating company went bankrupt a few months later, with the ship stranded in port with no power, no fuel, no money to pay bills. I have to admit a bit of schadenfreude: Don't mess with Doctor Tripod! :->

SPT - yes, poetic justice that...

I know what you mean about writing trip reports - I always vow to and then can't find the energy when I get home. Thankfully DMBT is doing a great job with his!!
Sounds like a balaclava might not be a bad investment.

Sliding down the hill sounds so fun - hope we get that opportunity.

SPT,

Could not have done the videos without help from my little friend "Flip". I recommend everyone have a friend like "Flip". He is affordable (about $100) and makes a great travel companion :)

In hearing the stories about ships getting into trouble in Antarctica, I wonder how many of them have been ships involved with Quark Expedition.

I cannot say enough about their professionalism during my trip and it seems like their experience in the Polar Regions really pays off for their passengers.

Yes, they are a bit more expensive but I certainly felt I got my money's worth and would definitely recommend and cruise with them again.

As SPT alluded to there are a lot of operators in Antarctica and research into the companies behind them would be worthwhile.

I understand most ships are leased by various tour operators who then provide the expedition crews. Sometimes the ship's crews and expedition crews actually work for different companies.

Combined with language and cultural differences this can present a problem during emergency situations. This I am told occurred on the ship that sank in Antarctica a few years ago. There was initial confusion between the ship's crew and the expedition crew.

This ship got into trouble in part because it was the Captain's first trip in the region. Research and choose your Antarctic Tour Operator carefully.

EXPERIENCE COUNTS WHEN THERE IS NOT MUCH ROOM FOR ERRORS.

THE ZODIAC DIFFERENCE

One of the unique things about visiting Antarctica on a ship like the Akademik Ioffe is the ability to actually land on the continent. Zodiacs make this possible.

Regular cruise ships also visit the Antarctic region in season but they are often limited in their ability to put passengers ashore. Zodiacs allow passengers to be taken to locations not accessible by other types of vessels.

Our landings at Yankee Harbor and Half Moon Bay gives us a good exposure to zodiac operations. On the Ioffe the zodiacs are stored on the stern (back) of the ship and they are placed in the water ahead of us lining up in the queue.

Boarding is done via a gangway on the right side of the ship after the zodiac is carefully secured in place. For safety reasons, there is a minimum of standing in the zodiac and most movement is done with a butt slide.

A fully loaded zodiac become quite cozy and I have discovered there is usually some advantage to being the last one in line, like a time or two of almost having my very own private zodiac.

Leaving Half Moon Bay we enter the zodiac by sitting on the edge and swinging both feet towards the engine. Then it's backpacks off and do the butt slide.

With calm seas it's a fast ride back to the Ioffe where we are unloaded one at a time with backpacks on and both hands free. Only three passengers are allowed on the gangway at a time.

Once back on board it's a quick decontamination of our boots and any other items that may have come in contact with the continent during our landing. Then it's to the Mud Room where another important step is suppose to be completed. A visit to the Akademik Ioffe Tag Board.

Here, we must individually turn our own tag so that the crew is aware of our status. Green on board, Red still ashore.

Announcements are made not by name but in general for those who have forgotten to turn their tags. I think these will become less frequent as we all get accustomed to the process.

A procedure in place to make sure “No Adult Get Left Behind”.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbfEMcU1AoU

SPT,

Don't remember a replica of the James Caird aboard the Ioffe but "I'm Old" :)