Off-topic, sorry, but congrats DMBT on being the most prolific fodor's trip reporter - is it true, 77 in 2010? Does that mean 77 trips in one year? I bow down.

JOURNEY TO DECEPTION ISLAND

Returning from our first landing of the day we are welcomed back on board to a delicious brunch as the Ioffe sets sail for Deception Island.

Although there is much daylight remaining, approaching our next destination, the weather seems as different as night and day. Under mostly cloudy gray skies the sun is battling to make it's warm presence known. The temperature has fallen considerably and along with the wind howling at over 35 miles an hour it is an experience that in an odd way I am enjoying. Jim Cantore would be proud of me as I faced the forces of nature “TWC” style, slanted.

Since others are more comfortable and smarter to enjoy the views from the shelter of the bridge, initially I am alone on the on the bow of the Ioffe.

However, soon enough I am joined by one then two other brave or maybe crazy souls. Our insanity and bravery helps us as we fight the elements to experience a true bit of Antarctica.

In a conversation with one of the passengers I am told the winds are over 36 knots (about 40 miles an hour), too much for kayaking. Therefore, he's now excited to join a few of us who are insanely looking forward to doing the Polar Plunge.

In taking in the scenery I am reminded that beauty can be found in all aspects of nature. Being fortunate to experience the most remote and sometimes most hostile area on the planet in and of itself is just awesome.

A rugged landscape covered in snow and a sea that can be unforgiving gives me a profound respect for what is here. It is hard to imagine being here in winter or anytime during the 180 days without sunshine.

Russian commands over the PA snaps me out of my imaginary thoughts and I get back to enjoying the reality around me. Although the wind is still relentless, on the port side of the Ioffe the sun is winning the battle in the skies as we enter the caldera at Deception Island.

The entrance to Deception Island is relatively narrow but once inside the caldera the island forms a safe harbor against the Antarctic weather.

Beyond the entrance is Whaler's Bay where we will make our next landing. From the winds and current sea conditions, I can tell our next zodiac ride could get interesting. Even inside the caldera the wind is cold and still blowing strong as it pours down from the surrounding snow covered hills.

Thankfully, there are more areas of blue skies where the sun's heat just might be breaking through.

Soon enough the Ioffe practically comes to a stand still and I stay on deck to witness it being anchored. By no means a simple process.

With the Ioffe anchored I can see our next landing spot which still has decaying buildings left behind from the long since deceased whaling industry. I am told at one point there was even an aiport located here, a part of one of a few scientific research centers that were destroyed by volcanic eruptions in the 1960's.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IRIy4-qSWU

LeslieS,

77 years old ... You are too kind :)

LANDING AT WHALERS BAY

Standing in the zodiac queue, Peter and I attempt to solicit more volunteers for this afternoon's possible Polar Plunge. Comparisons with Hawaii are not working and we fail miserably in our attempts.

Since anchoring at Deception Island the wind has continued to make it's strong presence known and the seas are returning the favor in kind. This makes docking and boarding the zodiacs a little more challenging than normal.

Today, it is a shorter ride to our landing spot and I welcome the ride from the small white cap seas.

Arriving at Whalers Bay we are given a nice introduction to the island by Lynn our Expedition Leader. Lynn's introduction also includes an open invitation for any of us crazy enough to do the Polar Plunge to return to our present spot at 5:45pm.

With the anointed time for our challenge set, Peter and I are off to explore a bit of Whalers Bay.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKbX5fyb9us

WALKING AROUND WHALERS BAY

The wind here seems even stronger than on the ship as Peter and I stroll around the black volcanic surface of Whalers Bay. Now somewhat in a valley, we are closer to the surrounding hills and that maybe a contributing factor.

We are told that in a few months this area will be covered with green plant life along with penguins that like to spend the spring time here. For now, there are only a few of them.

They are smart enough to stand with their backs to the wind or burrow into the ground for protection from it. Even some birds are dug in and asleep with their heads turned backwards to guard against the unrelenting wind.

Meanwhile, a few skuas have gathered near pools of standing water where others are taking bird baths.

I imagine with the blowing wind the temperature is somewhere in the 30 degree or less range. However, I am quite comfortable thanks to the parka provided by Quark Expedition.

Along the shoreline I am reminded of the Bob Marley's song “Three Little Birds” except the birds I am watching are sitting on crashing frigid waves and I don't think they are singing sweet songs and melodies.

I quietly wonder with a smile if there has ever been a Jamaican Antarctic Expedition Team. I know for a fact there has not been one from The Bahamas.

Scattered around this area of the bay are the decaying and fragile remains of the whaling industry. We are cautioned to be careful and not to touch them while viewing them.

It is amazing that some of the buildings were habitable given that the conditions here can become so cold and severe.

Next we head towards Neptune Window where we hope to get a glimpse of the actual Antarctica Continent which is about 19 miles away.

Then something interesting happens. Peter, Peter …..


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRrGuu_g1a4

<<I quietly wonder with a smile if there has ever been a Jamaican Antarctic Expedition Team.>>

I too am smiling as I remember that they did have an Olympic Bobsled Team!

Aw, talk about a cliff-hanger... something interesting about to happen, we don't know if you're going to go for your swim, ...

Thanks for the videos/photos of Deception Island. That was one place on our itinerary, that I wanted to see, but that we ended up not getting to.

(Oh, btw, when I was on the Ioffe, we had a rule of only one person on the gangway at a time (other than the Russian sailor at the bottom helping people). It looks like Quark didn't impose that rule on you all.)

SPT,

SPT,

3 on gangway for Quark. Deception Island was nice but it sure was windy. Not sure how it offers much protection from the Antarctic weather but it does serve as a safe harbor.

PETER, PETER ....

Lagging behind my friend Peter as we head towards Neptune's Window, I watch as the wind rips a waterproof protective cover off his backpack. This becomes an incident that we were cautioned about during our briefings on the Ioffe.

In order to preserve the beauty of this area we must be careful to not introduce any foreign items onto the continent. Although now an unfortunate innocence situation, a gray nylon cover is racing across the continent in search of a new home where it is not welcomed.

Our attention is now turned to recovering it but we cannot keep up with the speed at which it is moving. It is blending well with the surrounding black and white terrain making our search very difficult . Along with the cover's chameleon effect, the sun's blinding reflection off the snow covered hillside also compromises our efforts.

I see the cover blow around a small hill and this gives me a little hope that it will be slowed down as it will somewhat be sheltered from the full force of the wind. I am disappointed.

Our effort to find the cover becomes fruitless. I feel a sense of guilt and disappointment as I do not want to be a part of destroying or impacting the beauty that is here.

I hope nature will forgive our innocent mistake which unfortunately turns out to be the first of two that we will have made before the day is over.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ulOvMGXsGA

GETTING DIVE BOMBED ON WHALERS BAY

After a fruitless search for a blown away backpack cover, Peter and I are now out of time to explore Neptune's Window and begin walking back towards the shoreline.

A shrieking sounds comes from the sky and I quickly realize that we are being attacked. Looking up, a medium size white bird is making diving bombing runs at my yellow cover head.

Then comes Peter's turn.

Innocently we have walked near a nesting area and this bird is vehemently defending it's territory.

This incident exposes my naivety to life here. I think like most others, I am use to flying birds nesting in trees. Ummm, but there are no trees here. So let's see, 1 plus 1 really does not equal 3!

It would never have occurred to me to watch out for a bird nest on the ground. Another sin of nature committed here and I can think of only one way to cleanse our souls. Peter and I are now on our way to do so.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0DO1JM614o

TAKING THE TRUE POLAR PLUNGE

While there are many beers from around the world, we all know that there is only one King Of Beers, Budweiser. Quit laughing, I am serious. The same comparison can also be made in reference to Polar Plunges.

Although done annually in places like Minnesota, USA and Vancouver, B.C, there are only two regions in the world where one can experience the King Of Polar Plunges.

I happen to be in one of them, Antarctica.

Even with the sun shining, the weather seems even colder as the wind continues it's harassing ways. This scenario reminds me of a winter day in Minnesota where there is often clear blue skies but bitter cold temperatures. Something that becomes confusing to the mind if you are not use to it.

As we continue our walk along Whalers Bay, Peter and I discuss our individual strategy for the Polar Plunge. So far, I am favoring his plan. “Get In, Get Out, Go Home!”

Arriving at the the launch spot, others have already gathered for the plunge. The first plunger of our group is getting prepared as I review plunging instructions with Val, one of the expedition staff members.

Complimenting Val's instructions, the first plunger is in the water, “Just like that!”

Peter makes his entry and returns triumphantly. He vividly comments on the temperature of the water. “So, Cold!”

Since Peter is busy getting his body temperature back to normal, the plan for him to capture my plunge is not going to work. Fortunately, my Cabin 314 roommate, John is witnessing this almost insane spectacle and agrees to do the honors.

Sometimes it is interesting how the mind works. Even as the wind is howling around us with the temperature in the 30's, I am not cold as I strip down to my tropical swim trunks.

Ready to take the plunge, I pause a minute to remove my watch. I know it is waterproof but I am not sure if it is polar-proof.

Then I am racing into the wind driven waves with no thoughts of how cold the water is at that moment. I dive in to the applaud of the Russian judges that give me a 1.3 score.

It is only on my return to the shore that I realize, “The water is … F.. F... Freezing.”

Using a towel to dry off does me no good, the wind now becomes my friend and does a better job. Again, I do not have a sense of being cold but my feet are numb. I look down and although they have lost some color, I am thankful to still have toes.

Even with a 1.3 score, I feel like the King of The Polar Plunge, not bad for an island boy.

Yeah, Mon!

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgzsU1Hj_Vk

Definitely higher than 1.3 just for craziness - can't believe you guys did that!!!

LeslieS,

You know the motto of the "Seal" population around here is...
"We are never ever going to survive unless we get a little crazy"

So when in Antarctica do as .... :)

Amazing!

You're nuts but hurray for the nutty people!

Treesa,

I know a few people that would whole heartedly agree with your sentiments. I for one join you in saluting the nutty people :)

Major bummer about the pack cover, but good of you to make a serious effort to recover it.

As for the polar plunge... Isn't there supposed to be volcanic activity that heats up the water??? I always heard about, and see photos/videos of people soaking in little puddles on the beach, in a narrow region between too hot and #@#$#@ing cold. It looks like you all just ran into the #$!#$!$ing cold ocean! :-) I bow to your superior insanity.

SPT,

Yes, I hated to see that backpack cover flying away and I hope it has gone some place where it will not do too much harm.

There were small puddles up on the beach area but I don't they were warm or deep enough for a plunge. They were mostly for the birds :)

It was run in and haul ***, out! An initial shock that makes you stand around longer than you probably should to get dressed back up.

I don't think I ever shook so much putting my socks on and could barely feel them because my feet were so numb.

Insane, yes but fun and worth the experience!

LEAVING DECEPTION ISLAND

Having completed a “True Polar Plunge”, I return to the Ioffe but not as fast as promised. A long hot shower that involves continually drenching my feet with warm water and my mild fears of frostbite are starting to subside.

Dinner this evening is served buffet style but the highlight of it all is desert. I get to have ice cream. And seeing as I almost froze my toes off, I think I should get to eat all the ice cream in the world.

What do you think Lieutenant Dan?

At the ship’s reception desk is posted the Polar Plunge List. Here, those that have taken the plunge check off their names on the list.

I am honored to be on the list, having survived a chilling but fun and memorable experience. From the check marks I can tell that almost 25% of the Ioffe passengers are nuts!

Besides taking the Polar Plunge the one thing I will recall most about visiting Deception Island and landing on Whalers Bays is the wind.

While having a glass of "fine imported" red wine, thanks to my roommate John from the UK, he tells me the winds are still blowing strong even as we sail away from Deception Island.

I am fascinated by this for two reasons. One, it seems ironic that Deception Island would be a safe harbor since we received little protection from the wind.

Second, it leaves my mind to wonder how brutal the weather must be here during the dark days of winter.

Stepping outside into a passage way near my cabin, the wind is so strong that when I turn my back to it I am literally carried from the starboard (right-side) to the port (left-side) of the ship. On the upper decks I am sure you would have to hold on to reduce the risk of being blown away.

On the open seas Deception Island is fading in the background as the wind and waves produce an occasional giant spray off the bow of the ship. Having had my fill of wind for the day, I return inside to the comfort of the Akademik Ioffe.

In a few minutes, I will head down to the ship’s bar where I hope to win a few “Nil Hands” playing a game or two of Spades.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlVbYOtUXcY