OUR FIRST ZODIAC TOUR

If our tour only involved drifting around for three hours I would have been happy. The scenery alone speaks volume to nature's fantastic beauty here. However, today we have a little icing on the cake as our zodiac driver is none other than Lynn our Expedition Leader.

I am sure the passengers on the other zodiacs feel just as fortunate as Quark has put together a great group of people for this expedition.

Leaving the Ioffe behind we are soon having close up encounters with weird shaped but spectacular icebergs. Next a landscape dotted with red one story square buildings comes into sight. We are looking at an unoccupied Argentina scientific station.

In areas where the snow has melted, vegetation has started to grow. Gentoo penguins and gulls find refuge in these areas that are signs of the coming Spring and Summer. This refuge can be welcoming especially for baby penguins as we are told at one time seventeen of them where discovered in the stomach of a seal.

As we venture inside of Nicholas Bay the water becomes tranquil and smooth as glass. The surrounding snow covered mountains and glaciers reflect peacefully on the unbroken water surface. Penguins and seals enjoy the afternoon on floating icebergs, mostly undisturbed by our presence.

Later, we come across an iceberg so huge it seems stuck in the bay. Above the surface it is bright white with areas of dazzling blues and a pillar of ice that reaches skyward. At some point this iceberg will reshape itself and may be liberated once it is broken down into smaller pieces.

Leaving the stranded iceberg we approach areas of towering glaciers where the sea becomes covered with pieces of floating ice. At one point we are fortunate to witness a section of one glacier fall into the sea. Minutes later while drifting, encompassed by ice we experience a gentle rolling motion beneath us from the fallen glacier.

Although there are other zodiacs around we seem to be in our own world. One that I am thoroughly enjoying and reluctant to leave. The time passes too quickly and soon we are back in queue to board the Ioffe.

The routine has become standard and it does not take long before the Akademik Ioffe is sailing us to our next Antarctic adventure.


Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHMxQK-Vo8U

SMOOTH AS GLASS

Back on board the Ioffe, it is as if we are sliding across a piece of glass as we sail to our next destination. The surrounding scenery beautifully reflects off the water surface as small pieces of melting icebergs float by.

We are headed southeast and occasionally you can hear pieces of ice being crushed beneath the hull of the Ioffe. Like the on board Zodiacs, the ship is specifically designed for operations in the polar regions. The Ioffe can easily navigate through the areas of floating ice.

The calmness of the seas is unbelievable and except for the humming of the Ioffe this offers a chance for a tranquil reflection of the beauty here.

Video:
http://youtu.be/oAAIrMn0tlk

SWIMMING PENGUINS AND MORE ICE

Seeking shelter from the cold wind, I temporarily enjoy the Antarctica scenery from the comfort of the Ioffe bridge. The wind has increased and the surface of the water is no longer smooth as glass.

Not only has the wind effected the surface of the water but also groups of penguins that are swimming of the left bow of the Ioffe. They seem to be providing us escort as the Ioffe navigates more areas of sea ice.

Passing huge icebergs and glaciers the scenery never becomes boring. With clear blue skies and a surrounding brilliant white landscape, each distance traveled reveals more of Antarctica's pristine magnificence.

Video:
http://youtu.be/PzJVg7RhbwM

NAVIGATING TO NEKO HARBOR

With such nice weather it is difficult to remain inside the Ioffe. Encouraged by the sun's warmth, I brave the occasional cold winds and capture more of the spectacular scenery here.

We enter more areas where the water is smooth as glass and it seems like the Ioffe barely causes a ripple. We are far enough away from the encompassing landscape that our presence does not disturb it's mirrored images on the surface of the water.

Amazing and colorful icebergs continue to pass us by as small groups of penguins frolic in the frigid waters below. I am living out a dream as if I am in a National Geographic or Discovery Channel documentary.

I hope someone will come by soon and pinch me. I need to wake up because another zodiac tour and landing is planned at our next stop.


Video:
http://youtu.be/XpBTa2GR4ow

Oooh, Neko Harbor was one of my trip's highlights. This should be good!

SPT,

Did you see any whales in Neko Harbor? I think we were there too early in the season. We were told it is usually a good place to spot them.

We didn't but the seals and scenery was still awesome :)

NEKO HARBOR, SPECIAL DELIVERY

Once again, it turns out not to be a bad deal being last in the zodiac queue. With only five of us in a zodiac with Dr. Tim, I have a feeling our tour of Neko Harbor will have a more intimate touch.

Leaving the Ioffe, Dr. Tim sets out assigning everyone except me duties for our tour. One passenger is assigned to look for “Minky Whales”, another “Seals On Ice”, another “Snow Petrels” and another “Humpback Whales”. I am left alone to be “Video Man” although as a group we are all responsible for glacier watching.

Since the weather here can be so unpredictable every outing starts out with us dressed to expect the worst.

However, it is another afternoon where nature welcomes us with astonishing weather. The sun has warmed the air in the mid-forties and the wind on my face is refreshing as the zodiac accelerates across the harbor.

Although several zodiacs are navigating the harbor, the area is so huge that encounters are only by chance. We are drifting in one area as an oddly crewed zodiac approaches. With a penguin on it's bow and two red-headed crew members on board we watch a bit surprised as it continues coming towards us.

We are in for a special treat. It's “Hot Chocolate Time”, with a touch of Tia Maria. Hard to believe life in Antarctica can get any better than this.

A quick Russian lesson by Dr. Tim as we sip hot chocolate then continue our tour. I don't think any of us are ready for diplomatic services yet but at least we know one word, “Spice e-ba”. Thank You!

One of our duties is filled as a “Seal On Ice” is spotted. This one is sleeping and Dr Tim turns off the zodiac motor and allows the water's current to pull us in for a closer look. As we are watching, the seal becomes aware of our presence and gives us a curios “nice to see you to” look.

Entering a bay closer to one the glaciers, the zodiac becomes encompassed by ice. The surface of the water beneath is barely visible and I have brief thoughts of trying the walking on water routine. Thankfully, another seal basking on an iceberg frees me from my idle thoughts.

Navigating from the frozen obstacles around us, the next seal we spot reminds us that nature and life down here is not always so kind. A lone crab-eater seal is on an iceberg spotted with areas of blood. This seal is having a heck of a time scratching an apparent wound and we are all sympathetic to it's plight.

Our zodiac tour comes to an end but there is more of Neko Harbor to explore as we'll next make a landing here.

Video:
http://youtu.be/SVHGdUQIprg

Hot chocolate with Tia Maria - now you're talking!!

LeslieS,

Only a little "Sweet-N-Sour" with some "Patron" would have been better :)

No whales on my trip in Neko Harbor (but we lucked out at some other points). My trip was in February, and we spent the time there in a gentoo rookery. Looking at your video, the ice conditions are so different from later in the season. When I was there, the harbor was pretty much ice-free, and the beaches were bare. In your video, you have that shot of plowing through all that clogged up brash ice!

SPT,

I bet there were gentoos everywhere! We did see some humpbacks but only from the deck of the Ioffe.

OFFICIALLY ON THE BLUE CONTINENT

After a fantastic zodiac tour of the area, our landing at Neko Harbor officially places us on the Antarctic Continent. Although I have much more to experience here and else where around the globe, part of a dream is complete. I have now traveled to all seven continents.

Our landing allows for a bit of snow hill hiking where we can take in elevated views of the surrounding area. The Ioffe sits anchored in the harbor below as a colony of Gentoo Penguins are squawking up a storm while standing around in guano.

Not to be left out a bird circles the area then lands to check out what all the fuss is about.

With warming weather, the snow is beginning to turn soft and walking off the designated path presents some problems. One of which is the creation of large deep footprints. In one of our daily meal chats we learn that these can be dangerous for our Antarctic friends. Partially filling them in can significantly reduce their risk of death.

Besides another series of spectacular views, this landing provides another reward for those that are a bit adventurous. Snow sledding without the sled. Dr. Tim leads the charge for some and waits half way down the hill to make sure the thrill does not stall out.

Walking down the hill a lone skua sits along the path not bothered by a bright yellow spectator. I watch awhile until it takes off in flight then I admire a few seals laying around that always seem happy to see me.

As if being a tour guide, a penguin walks along the path ahead of us as we make our way back to the Ioffe. I am sure it would make an excellent tour guide although we might just have a little language barrier.


Video:
http://youtu.be/RuguljUDX0Y

I think this video was perhaps your best. Such rather eerily beautiful scenery, with the intense blue against the snow. I, of course, loved seeing the Gentoos, one shot in particular of the lone penguin surrounded by snow.

And congratulations for having visited all seven continents. Would love to do that too, but we have a long way to go. Does cruising antarctic waters count? lol We need to visit Asia, Africa and Australia, having been to North & South America and Europe. Wish us luck!

Very nice!

when I was there, all the beach areas were clear of snow, but the giant snow hill you hiked up was the same. It's amazing to watch those little penguins work their way all the way up those gigantic hills!

A WHALE OF A SURPRISE

It is about 9:30pm when an announcement is made from the bridge. I am excited just from the tone alone in the announcer's voice. A pair of humpback whales have been spotted of the bow of the Ioffe.

The temperatures have fallen again so I dress warm, grab my best photo equipment and head to the bridge. In the distance, I see two shiny black objects occasionally break the surface as pieces of ice and icebergs float by. Water vapor columns rise into the air and it becomes easier to spot them.

The Ioffe has gone into a run silent, run deep mode as it is carefully maneuvered safely behind our surfacing visitors.

We are still a good distance away when a back arches and then begins to descend. Soon a V-shaped tail rises in the air touched by the sun's golden rays before it fades from the surface.

Earlier in our expedition we learned that humpback whales can remain submerged for up to 45 minutes. I am hoping this evening this will not be the case.

Apparently, this pair is feeding and the food supply is not too deep as they soon resurface. This time we are so much closer that I can clearly see a blow hole.

The Captain has done a nice job maneuvering the Ioffe and after about twenty minutes of watching these magnificent creatures the Ioffe is set on course for our next destination, Paradise Harbor.

Slideshow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GecZlWLh6-U

Great photos!

I have to wonder if this is the same pair of whales I saw on my cruise. It was also a mother and calf, and they spent around an hour playing around and with the ship.

SPT,

Probably so! I guess they can be pretty territorial. Our marine biologist on board told us he tracks the same pod every year in the Pacific Northwest.

PARADISE HARBOR

Although it is Spring in Antarctica not all areas of the continent have received the memo. We get first hand confirmation of this as our first zodiac landing of the day is canceled. After many attempts the Ioffe finds it's path time and time again blocked by sea ice as it tries to navigate into Paradise Harbor.

Not only is the sea ice a reminder of our current location but also the bit cold howling winds. Even with the sun shining only a few of us brave being out on the deck of the Ioffe.

I am so bundled up my roommate John is not sure who's behind the yellow parka and black face mask. Only with an occasional relief from the wind or by finding shelter can I get a glimpse of the scenery. More gorgeous pristine white landscape and another scientific research center in the distance.

I think most of us our glad the zodiac landing has been canceled. It might have been quite miserably under these conditions. Time too edit some photos, maybe.

Video:
http://youtu.be/gpfzTJmPh80

A LOCAL VISITOR

Since boarding the Akademik Ioffe it has been a part of our breakfast, lunch or dinner routine to have some type of demonstration or speech from one of our expedition leaders. Anchored just of Goudier Island, today’s lunch comes with a special treat.

We have a local visitor.

Niki, is a part of a group of volunteers with The Antarctic Heritage Trust that spends about four months out of the year living in Antarctica. At this point, I am envious.

In a few hours we will get to visit Niki's humble abode as we take a zodiac trip to Port Lockroy.

Video:
http://youtu.be/4sZEEjKPDl8

Wow, did she say where to sign up to volunteer?!