I first visited Bermuda in 1972. Since then I have returned frequently. Although I have visited many other islands in the Caribbean (Fodors' geography, not mine), Bermuda is my favorite. There have been lots of changes over the years; but, it remains a lovely place to spend a week. I prefer to go the first part of December because I find generally nice weather, though not for ocean swimming, the beach is perfect, fewer visitors, and the holiday boat parade. I can do a little last minute shopping and take a break from the holiday madness.
Where I stayed: I visited Watercolours on this trip. It is an elegant two story home on Hamilton harbor. Upstairs is the family residence, downstairs is for guests and the housekeeper. The home is owned by Joe and Carole Holding. Carole is justly famous as an artist. Her Bermuda focused watercolours are extremely well known. She is also an accomplished chef. The rate is set, no service or tax, and includes breakfast. I had the king room. It is quite large, very attractively furnished and in excellent condition.( NOTE: Carole and Joe are welcoming guests into their home. They treat it well and expect the same of their guests. It is extremely well maintained. Because the furnishings are of such high quality, care in the use is essential.) There are french doors to the terrace, small pool and lawn. The view is of the harbor. I found it very quiet and comfortable. Carole and Joe are cordial and warm; but, they do not interfere with their guests. None of the intrusive hovering which I have found at some bed and breakfasts. I teach online classes and had to have access to the internet. Joe hooked up my laptop to his system and I was able to log on for no charge at times of my choosing. The breakfast is served in the library from 8:00. Cereal, pastry, toast, juice, fresh fruit, coffee (French press), tea, and yogurt were offered. In the afternoon a complimentary drink is offered and ice is provided (available on request at any other time). The location is less than a minute walk from Belmont ferry stop and a bus stop. There are steps to the Harbor Road, so I would not recommend it for anyone with significant mobility problems. Because of the quality of furnishings and the level of care required, I would not suggest it to people traveling with children.
Where I ate: Bermudians go crazy at Christmas. There are parties everywhere and they are out enjoying the restaurants. So many of them are enjoying the restaurants, I found reservations even for lunch to be advisable. I waited until I got there to do my booking and was unable to make a reservation at Ascot's or Fourways, two of my favorite places. If there is somewhere you particularly want to dine, reserve before you go. One other note, I am a fish eating vegetarian, so I did not go to Waterlot Inn which is currently getting very high marks as a steak house.
Waterloo House-very good, beautiful room, gorgeous holiday decorations, excellent service
La Coquille (new name is Bistro at La Coquille)-excellent (grilled scallops were outstanding as was the bread), nice ambiance save for unbearably loud Beyonce music. Located in the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute. (note:there are some cool items in the gift shop, shipwreck maps, underwater videos, etc)
Cambridge Beaches-excellent grilled snapper, average service, beautiful views
Lighthouse Tea Room-very good soup and sandwich, marginal pudding, average service,cool place.
Pompano Beach-pleasant service, good food, gorgeous views. I took a tour of the property and was very impressed with the renovations, the spa staff and the welcoming attitude of all the employees.
Blu-Since it is new and not much reviewed, I will put a little more down about it. Blu is owned by the Little Venice Group which dominates the restaurant scene in Bermuda. It is in the Belmont Hills golf resort (draws a clubby crowd), situated with a marvelous view of Hamilton harbor. The night I went I had eaten a late and fairly heavy lunch, so I had pizza, which was excellent. The special was a Tex Mex lobster. (uh?) The menu is all over the place. I think they are still trying to find their niche. The service was very knowledgable and prompt. Because the server told me the ice cream was housemade, I tried it. WOW! Off the charts, good. Bermuda is not an ice cream lover's place and this was welcome.(FYI, my hostess told me they have a $3.00 hot dog which is very good and the best hamburger in Bermuda).
HogPenny Pub. For years this has been a place I visit, but on this trip the food was the worst I had. It was poorly presented, poorly prepared and the service was very slow. I was disappointed.
Port O'Call-I had not been here in years, but it was recommended to me, so I went back. It is a very attractive restaurant on Front Street, ideal stopping point during shopping expeditions. I had a grilled fish platter (lobster, crab, rockfish and shrimp). The fish was very good, but they had a lump of very bland and tasteless rice as the side. When I first got there the service was quite attentive, but within moments a group of four polished, elegant business people arrived and I was completely ignored. I had to request service to get it.
Lemon Tree Cafe-The owner/chef Jean Claude was for eighteen years the Executive Chef at Cambridge Beaches. He is well known as a principal player in the Bermuda Food and Wine festivals. Located on Queen St at Par La Ville Park, the Lemon Tree is a find. They open for breakfast (waffles, quiche, pastries, lattes) and lunch (panini, meat and chicken pies, quiche, salads, sandwiches, and specials which are full meals). They also host a happy hour with free apps once a week. The food is excellent. I had the best mahi mahi I have ever eaten here one day. For food quality and value, this is the place. They have very limited indoor seating, but a lovely outdoor patio on the park. Free internet access for laptops. There are umbrellas and heat lamps making it a good year round place. The food is also offered as take away, perfect for picnics or a private dinner. Jean Claude is absolutely charming and is an attraction himself. Introduce yourself to him, you will be glad you did. Shoppingermuda is no longer the place to shop for bargains.
The Island shop has pretty things but is grossly overpriced in my view. By the way, the in town branch is jammed to the point you cannot move comfortably. Go to the St. George's branch.
Cecile has beautiful women's and children's clothing and the staff is the most courteous and helpful in Bermuda. Very much the "old" Bermuda style of service.
Irish Linen Shop has gorgeous linens and sleepwear. It is expensive but they have a selection of Ulster tea towels ($9.75) which I love as souvenirs. I have bought the Bermuda birds, flowers and cottage tea towels. There are numerous other patterns which are quite appealing.
AS Cooper's has reopened and offers a wide range of gifts, clothing, etc. For reasons which completely escape me they did not keep their beautiful Wedgewood doors. Boo Hoo.
Bluck's for china and crystal. The prices are slightly lower than US and there is no tax. Service standard here is very high.
Calypso used to carry some very interesting original cottons but now it is more Eileen Fisher stuff.
Frangipani and Cow Polly East were closed. Cow Polly East is gone forever, but Frangipani will reopen in the spring. They no longer carry all the beautiful Greek cottons, Fresh Produce seems to be the principal brand.
Carole Holding shop: Carole has a lovely line of gifts with Bermuda themes in addition to her beautiful watercolors. She has also added some wonderful rum cakes and preserves!
Pulp and Circumstance: These jammed with inventory stores have some cute cards and gifts. A fun place to visit.
Crisson's: I like them the best of the jewelry stores, but there were no huge bargains. The big advantage is no sales tax.
How I got around: Bermuda has an excellent public transportation system, cheap and reliable. The most wonderful way to use it is the ferry. Even if you don't have anywhere to go it is a nice ride to view the harbor. Taxis are absurdly expensive and in my experience not likely to show on time or sometimes even show at all. My hostess arranged my airport transfers with Joe Brown and it was very prompt. I ride the bikes. I know they are dangerous so I do try to follow a couple of rules:
1. never ride till I feel comfortable
2. stay off the roads while Bermuda is going to work or coming home
3. Never ever ever ride when drinking
4. never ride in the rain
5. never ride after dark.
So far those rules have helped. Now, I have been with friends who wrecked and I would have to say the main reason is they tried to ride without adequate instruction. I have a very strong recommendation on that issue: Use Elbow Beach Cycle Rental company operated by Mrs. Thomas. She absolutely insists you prove you are capable of operating the bike before she lets you leave. She gives the most comprehensive training and observes you for an extended time. The bikes are in excellent condition. She will pick you up at your hotel and bring you to her rental site. You do not need to be a guest of Elbow Beach. I have rented from all of the companies and hands down, Mrs Thomas is the best.

Bermuda has gorgeous beaches and this time of year, you can own your own. I have already done the perfumery, crystal caves, kinds of things so for the most part I spend my time sitting on beaches, reading, and riding my bike. Just breathing in that clear, clean Bermuda air, listening to the frogs............

I love Bermuda and am already looking forward to my next visit.

topping for Marion and cyn

cmcfong:

thanks for a very informative- especially helpful to me as we leave for Bermuda on Sunday. I'm printing it off so I can bring it with us!

<font color="green">Cyn</font>

we were posting at the same time!

cmcfong: you mentioned the frogs...what else is there for wildlife? Any special place you like to go to just commune with the critters?

<font color="green">Cyn</font>

There are no critters to speak of save the fabulous birds, the tree frogs and the crowd underwater. To view the underwater scene, go to the aquarium and small zoo in Flatts Village. Have a lovely time!

cmcfong, thank you writing such a detailed report. It brought back so many wonderful memories of a place that we hold very dear to our hearts!

I have always enjoyed shopping in Bermuda but it seems that the selection has dwindled. I'm glad AS Cooper has reopened.

Reading you restaurant reviews has made me very hungry, lol. The last time my husband and I were at the Port O'Call, we had a similar experience.

It is still my hope that Mr. STW and I will get to Bermuda this time of year - it sounds so peaceful!

Thanks again!

You make me want to go right now! Thanks for a great trip report. We haven't been in a few years, but love Bermuda. The first trip I took was in 1976 and I was 12. It was our family's first trip out of the country and we all thought it was beautiful and exotic!
Have gone back several times. We all love it in my family. My husband said just last week, when are we going back?
Loved the trip report. So sorry to hear the nice shops are gone.
Thanks again for reminding us why we all love Bermuda!

Glad you enjoyed it. STW, it is a beautiful time to experience Bermuda. But then......when isn't? Bermuda is another world.

Thank you CMC for a great report, I'll take it with me next week for our New Year's weekend in Bermuda.

Have a great time, Owlwoman.

Lovely, cmcfong, quite lovely.

Does it bring you peace and comfort returning to a place that you hold dear and have been to many times as it does for me? Like revisiting a dear friend. Doesn't matter how much time has passed, you pick up right where you left off.

May you bask in the beauty of your Bermuda many a December, dearest cmcfong.

Good morning, Tiff. You captured exactly what I feel and said it so nicely. Bermuda is indeed an old friend and I always feel so welcomed.

Best wishes for the holiday season to you, your darling husband and the beloved Sophie.

Thanks cmcfong, a very joyous holiday weekend for your family to include your five ((&amp)s and of course, your new kitchen!!!!

Tiff, I hope you saw the FFRandR post!

I just did, ha. I am glad someone 'gets' my warped sarcastic humor, LOL.

And that Catie girl, now that she is famous, do you think she will remember the little people, I mean little pups????

How truly touching that they used her picture, cmcfong, what kind of dog is she? Hope it is ok I am asking this on your trip report, LOL.... I am sure no one will mind.

Your comment cracked me up! Thanks for getting me off on the right foot.

Catie is a mixed breed. She looks like a bearded collie, light grey with a white beard and black tipped ears. She looks very much like a larger version of the dog in the Old Navy ads which are running right now. She is very loving and playful. The kids just light up when she comes in the room.
Thank goodness celebrity has not gone to her head. I would absolutely die if I had a little Lohan dog attitude to deal with!!!

Happy holidays, my friend.

&lt;&lt;a little Lohan dog attitude&gt;&gt;

Now I am the one laughing out loud! You slay me.

DH &amp; I went to see The Pursuit of Happyness this afternoon, cmcfong. See it if you get the chance. Very emotional as it is inspired by a true story.

Best wishes to you dear! May 2007 be filled with good health, much happiness and lots of love.
&gt;&lt;

I have heard great things about the film. It may take a while to get to Pinnacle, though!
May your new year bring you everything you have prayed for, Tiff.

topping for bluesky