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Old Aug 13th, 2007, 11:01 AM
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Nova Scotia Trip Report

Day 1 (July 28, 2007):

We flew from New York-LaGuardia to Halifax on Air Canada. It was a nice, easy, short, flight. We picked up the rental car from Enterprise, and drove to the Halifax Marriott Harbourfront Hotel. The hotel was nice, and located along the water. We strolled around a bit along the waterfront and the Historic Properties, got a bite to eat at Captain John’s Fish Co (good salmon wrap!), and eventually arrived at the Alexander Keith’s Brewery.

The Alexander Keith’s Brewery tour was the first of the several “living museums” featuring costumed docents that we visited. This first one was fun, and we were guided around the 1863-period facilities by some feisty employees. At the end, we were treated to a couple pints of beer as well as some song and dance.

After the brewery tour we wandered back to the hotel, and explored the Casino a bit, before heading back to the hotel’s pub, Fife & Drum. We were a bit disappointed that they charged us a cover because a band was playing. The cover, and the $6 beers set us back a bit. Oh well. We were too close to our hotel room to want to wander around looking for another bar.

Day 2 (July 29, 2007):

We tried to get up early, but the one hour time change, and the beers from the night before, prevented an early departure. Nevertheless, the weather was nice, so we decided to do our little road trip to the south this day. We had originally planned on driving all the way around to Yarmouth and Annapolis Royal before cutting back across to Halifax, but we definitely did not have enough time for such an ambitious adventure.

We drove down to Mahone Bay, and stopped there for lunch. By this time, the weather had gotten really hot, and we fried under the sun as we explored the flea market and the shops. We ate at the Salt Spray Cafe, and enjoyed their deck and food. We were a bit dismayed when a family (mom, mom’s boyfriend, and mom’s daughter) came in. When asked by the waitress how they were doing (as the waitress seated the family), the matriarch proudly announced, “We’re from Toronto”! (as if someone had asked). This statement was followed by non-stop, loud and obnoxious chatter throughout the rest of our meal. We were blessed to learn everything about them, from their pedicure habits to their diets. We were even informed during the daughter’s requisite cell phone call, that she despises dirty underwear! They had the restaurant patrons’ heads spinning by the time we had finished our meal. In retrospect, I suppose it was somewhat entertaining. The lobster sandwich, chowder and pink lemonade were quite tasty.

After Mahone Bay, we drove along the Lighthouse Trail to Lunenberg. This was a nice town, and we walked around admiring the buildings. There was a band in the gazebo and we listened for a while.

We then drove back to Highway 103, and headed to the Seaside Adjunct of Kejimkujik National Park. This was really nice. It was a bit foggy, but not cold at all. We didn’t have much time, so did one of the smaller hikes to the Harbour Rocks. It was a nice hike through some forest as well as bog down to the water. I had never seen an insect eating plant in nature before! There were nice little bog orchids all around too.

After our hike, we drove back to Halifax and ditched the car. We had dinner at a pizza/Lebanese place (Venus Pizza) on Barrington Street, and wandered back to the hotel.

Day 3 (July 30, 2007):

This day started overcast, and the forecast was for early rain and later clearing. We drove the Ross Farm Museum. This was another nice living museum. It started raining while we were there, but we were armed with umbrellas, and ducked into the buildings now and then. We learned a lot about living on a 19th century farm. We also did one of the nature walks (and got munched by mosquitos – bring spray!!!).

After the Farm, we drove back to Halifax (stopping at a Tim Hortons for lunch), ditched the car, and took the FRED (Free Rides Everywhere Downtown) from the Casino to the Citadel. Alas, it was pouring rain, and there was nothing going on at the Citadel. We took the tour, but we didn’t get to see any of the music, guards, etc. I guess it was nice because there weren’t many people there, but it would have been nice to at least hear a bagpipe tune.

From the Citadel, we walked to the Public Gardens, and then down Spring Garden Road, and back down to the waterfront. The rain had finally stopped, and a misty fog hovered over the city. It wasn’t cold at all, and the Gardens were delightful. We made it back down to the waterfront, and while we were walking along, an orange cat jumped out of the bushes and greeted us. He was quite friendly and posed for a few pictures. His tag told us that his name was Erik, and that he was a resident of the CSS Acadia (one of the Maritime Musuem ships). He was a friendly cat.

We proceeded back to the Casino and ate at their buffet. The buffet was good, and I tried to get my money’s worth by eating a lot of mussels and lamb.

Day 4 (July 31, 2007):

We woke up early this day and checked out of the hotel. We were headed up to Baddeck. I asked the concierege if it would be feasable to drive Highway 7 along the Marine Drive up to Antigonish. She stated that she grew up on Cape Breton and had never gone that way. It seemed to me that she thought we were crazy for even considering it. She told us to take 102 to 104. So, we headed out of Halifax, and we were going back and forth as to what route to take. I took a wrong turn, and low and behold, the signs for Highway 7 were right in front of me, so off we went on Highway 7.

We were so glad that we didn’t heed the concierge’s advice. The Marine Drive was fantastic. Beautiful scenery, nice, empty roads. It was really a pleasure to drive. We stopped off at Sheet Harbour, and had lunch at the Fairwinds Motel. I would like to have been able to spend more time exploring that whole area.

The only unfortunate thing about Highway 7 was when a small red squirrel ran in front of the car. I swerved to avoid it, and, crunch....I killed the poor Tamiasciurus hudsonicus. After over 20 years of driving, it was my first road kill. Alas.

So, we drove through Antigonish, across the Causeway, and made it to Cape Breton. We pulled into Baddeck in the evening, and settled in at the Telegraph House. We stayed in one of the cabins. The cabin was simple, yet nice. It had a small deck with a table and chairs. There was no air conditioner, which really didn’t bother us (but that might bother some people – it did have an overhead fan, and another fan on a table). However, what did bother me was the lack of a coffee maker! Argh! (Luckily for me, there was a cafe right across the street that opened at 6:00am and had good coffee, pastries and sandwiches. Of course, I can’t remember the name, but it was right across the street from the Telegraph House and had a little outdoor patio).

Anyway, we walked around Baddeck a bit, headed down to the marina, and eventually ended up in the Yellow Cello for pizza.

The Yellow Cello was good. We enjoyed a pizza, some beer, and a salad. There was also entertainment there (http://jasonmacdonald.com). We were again treated to some loud and obnoxious patrons (this family was from Miami, and had sailed up to PEI – they boasted to the whole restaurant, “that sailing is a very expensive way to travel very slowly”). Again, in retrospect, it was amusing, and will always give us something to joke about and remember. We were slightly taken aback when the bill arrived, but were getting used to paying a little more than we usually do at restaurants. Maybe it’s that HST.

Day 5 (August 1, 2007):

We woke up early and headed off to drive the Cabot Trail. We opted for the clockwise route. We stopped and picked up a small cooler, ice, and some picnic items before we got into the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

Our first stop was the Skyline trail, and we did the whole loop. We saw an eagle, a red-tailed hawk (or was it a kestrel), a group of some sort of marine mammal, but no moose. We saw the marine mammals from atop the end of the boardwalk, overlooking the sea. They looked like dolphins or porpoises?

Sunburned and hot, we drove on, and stopped at the Bog trail, and did that little loop. We were really fascinated once again by the carnivorous plants. We saw some sort of salamander, but again, no moose.

Next we stopped at MacIntosh Brook and enjoyed our little picnic. After we ate, we headed up the trail to the waterfall and back. We forged on.

As we were driving along, there were a bunch of cars pulled over on the side of the road. They were all looking at a moose and her calf. They hardly seemed to notice the crowd of people photographing them.

Our next stop was Neil’s Harbour, where we stocked up on some more food supplies, and headed back onto the Cabot Trail.

Next we stopped at Black Brook Beach. What a nice little beach! The waves were good, the sand was nice. If it had been a little earlier in the day (and hotter), I would have jumped in. There were plenty of people swimming, but I was tired at this point. I guess I should have gone in.

At this point, it was getting late, so we decided to head back. We were both pretty exhausted from this whirlwind tour of the Cabot Trail. We headed back to Baddeck, and got in about 12 hours after we left. A very long day, but well worth it.

That night, we ate at the Village Kitchen in Baddeck. It was reasonably priced and had good food.

Day 6 (August 2, 2007)

So, after the long Cabot Trail day, we slept in a bit this day. We headed out to Louisbourg and spent the whole day out there. We were going to try and see the Highland Village the same day, but didn’t want to push it.

Louisbourg was cool. We learned a lot from the costumed figures about what life was like in 1744. It was very interesting, and scenic too.

After we toured the fortress, we stopped at Jake’s Family Restaurant and had a good hearty meal. After the meal, we decided to drive back to check out Kennington Cove, where the British landed to attack the Fortress. The road was a bit bumpy, and longer than we thought it would be, but we made it to the cove.

We were met by a nice beach, and we got out of the car to read the interpretive sign. We had just about finished the first sentence, when we realized we were covered with black bugs! Ugh! We ran to the beach in hopes that the wind would blow them away, but that didn’t work, and we had to run back to the car. It took a while to get all of the bugs out of the car.

We drove back to Baddeck and got some ice cream before going back to our cabin.

Day 7 (August 3, 2007):

This was our last full day in Nova Scotia. We woke up and packed all of our stuff. Our goal was to have a nice, leisurely drive back to Halifax. Before we left, we stopped off at the Bras d’Or Interpretive Centre in Baddeck, and learned about the local area. It was really interesting, and well worth a quick visit.

We headed out of town, toward Iona and the Highland village. We drove to the cable ferry at Little Narrows, and crossed over the strait ($5). It was a fun little ride on the ferry (and wholly unexpected!).

We reached the Highland Village and, once again, were delighted by the costumed characters. Unlike the other living museums we had been to, the Highland Village doesn’t capture one specific time, but takes you from the Black House of 1790 up through and to the 1900 “Turn of the Century House”. We were amazed at the knowledge of the costumed staff. They had answers to all of our questions. I particularly enjoyed the explanation of the woodstove in the Centre Hallway House (c. 1865) and the telephone operator’s station in the Turn of the Century House.

The only thing about the Highland Village was the fact that we were there the day before the big annual Highland Village Day. Not only did we miss that event, but I couldn’t help but feel that a lot of people (the costumed staff) took the day off. Only a few of the houses had costumed docents, and we missed out on any explanations at the barn, the church, the schoolhouse, the blacksmith’s, and the carding mill. Maybe it’s always like that on weekdays. Nevertheless, I’m glad we stopped by to visit

So, after the Highland Village, we took a scenic route, going through Eskasoni and up before meeting up with Highway 4, and heading back down south through St. Peters. We finally made it to the Hilton Garden Inn by the airport, and headed back to New York the next day.

Summary:

In summary, we greatly enjoyed our trip to Nova Scotia. The beautiful scenery, the empty roads, the friendly people; it was all fantastic. The weather even cooperated. I’m glad we got to see different parts of the province on our first visit, and do not at all regret the long distances we drove (except for that poor squirrel). I do wish we had had more time to explore specific areas a little more (like the Highlands National Park and the area beyond Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct – Yarmouth/Annapolis Royal). It would be great to stay a couple weeks in one place and relax and take day trips. Maybe the next time, we’ll rent a cottage for a couple of weeks!

Thanks to all who gave trip advice!

Pictures:

http://flickr.com/photos/life_in_the...7601407895155/
Gwot is offline  
Old Aug 13th, 2007, 12:38 PM
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Thanks for sharing your trip report to one of my favourite Canadian provinces!
Daniel_Williams is offline  
Old Aug 13th, 2007, 01:15 PM
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Great trip report, Gwot! I just enjoyed a trip to NS, too, and loved my week's driving around the lower part (I only did Rts 101 and 103, with associated rural numbers, 1 and 3).

Did you get to see a gambling game played with beans at the end of the Brewery tour? I'm trying to remember what it was called.

Cheers.
scotlib is offline  
Old Aug 13th, 2007, 01:28 PM
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it was so nice to read your report and your photographs are fantastic. You have an eye!! They really are beautiful!

We are leaving for our trip to Quebec City, NB and NS on Sept 30 and are really looking forward to it.
We have 3 days in Cape Breton...do you think that will be to many?
and
we have been going back and forth about the route to take north from Halifax and you have convinced me to take the slow road....hopefully minus hitting any squirrelys....:0(
jaspertl is offline  
Old Aug 13th, 2007, 02:36 PM
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Hi, Gwot! Thanks for the wonderful trip report & the photos. I am so happy that you enjoyed Nova Scotia....my home & native land ( although I now live near Toronto but I do not announce it to the world when I am in restaurants in NS!!!...I love your sense of humour.)
Your photos are beautiful. Mr. Eric is a very handsome gentleman cat!
I hope that you get the chance to return to Cape Breton & in particular, The Cabot Trail. Maybe next time you can do the "counter-clockwise" tour to compare. And, maybe stay the night in Ingonish & enjoy the Ingonish beaches during the day.
Thanks again for your Nova Scotia trip report & the great pictures!
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Old Aug 16th, 2007, 06:39 PM
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thank you for sharing the report.
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Old Aug 17th, 2007, 07:27 AM
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What a wonderful report, Gwot!
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Old Aug 18th, 2007, 04:15 AM
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Thank you for this report, very interesting and very helpful as I am going to NS for 2 weeks - last week of Sept, 1st week of Oct. I have been to many Canadian places but this is the 1st time to NS and I am really looking forward to it.

Your photos are good also.

Thanks
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Old Aug 24th, 2007, 11:13 AM
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I enjoyed your trip report - I grew up in Cape Breton so I'm glad to hear when others enjoy their experiences there.

The Ceilidh Trail in Cape Breton is another great drive through the western part of Cape Breton along the coast. Very scenic, and so culturally rich.
lifeofmytime is offline  
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