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Old Feb 15th, 2015, 04:22 AM
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18 nights in Newfoundland

Oh, I am so excited! My husband and 19 year old son and I will be arriving in St. John's in late July. My husband will be flying out from Deer Lake mid-trip, and my son and I will be leaving from St. John's. This is what we're thinking about, and I'd love your comments:

Arrive in St. John's around 6 pm. One night there, and look around the next day.
Three nights at a great little cottage on the Irish Loop coastline.
Two nights in Trinity.
Two nights in Deer Lake (free hotel, points) to see Gros Mourne.
One night up near L'anse au Meadows
Ferry to Labrador, spend one night
Two nights (another day at Gros Mourne) in Deer Lake, hubby leaves
Two nights near Eastport, Sandy Cove?
Three nights on Conception Bay

What we love most is beautiful scenery. We'll be staying in cottages and efficiencies. My husband really wants to go to Labrador, too, thus the ferry, and one night there. I really considered doing Fogo Island, but that's just too much extra driving, and my husband would rather see L'anse au Meadows. Is that a mistake? We do best when we stay in a place for at least two nights at a time. We love to hike (really, walk!) and beachcomb. Please let me know what you think of this itinerary, and if you have ideas that I haven't considered. Thanks!
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Old Feb 15th, 2015, 07:34 AM
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We spent 17 days in Newfoundland last June and had a fantastic time - I'm sure your family will as well.

While I didn't finish it (darn) here's a link to my trip report

http://www.fodors.com/community/cana...good-start.cfm

Here are some random comments about your itinerary

- have you ordered the NL tourist guide? It's great - they mail it to you very quickly. I also downloaded the app which came in handy a couple of times

- this might seem like a small point but are you Canadian? Do you plan to use your cell phones in NL? The Bell Canada network has good to excellent coverage throughout most of NL (you'll go through some dead spots in Gros Morne and on the way to L'Anse aux Meadows) but the Rogers network is virtually only Cornerbrook and St. John's. So if you're Canadian and on Rogers you might want to get a Bell or Virgin prepaid SIM card and use that when you're there. I bought a Virgin prepaid with a NL number and used it. (need an unlocked phone to do so) If you're American check to see which Canadian Carrier your mobile operator roams on in Newfoundland. If Rogers, consider above option as well. Lots of places to buy a SIM card when you get to SJ.

- we also stayed outside of St. John's (in Witless Bay) and toured the Irish Loop/etc. We also found it really easy to drive into St.John's (less time than our commute to downtown Toronto from our house!) so you can do a bit of both if you wish. We had a great time on a boat cruise out of Bay Bull's (see trip report) and if you're interested in fossils there is a significant site at the bottom of the Irish Loop (and it's a great hike too - need reservations - see trip report)

- I'm assuming your husband's arrival/departure days are fixed into Deer Lake - yes?

- I don't think two nights in Trinity does it justice - that's really only one full day and there is so much to see and some really beautiful hikes (Skerwink in particular) - more below about Trinity

- the driving in and out of Deer Lake would get old for me. And you have to be careful not to drive at dusk (moose) so it means every night back in Deer Lake. I know the temptation of free accommodation but why not forsake the first two nights in Deer Lake and stay in Rocky Harbour? That means you can easily see that side of the park, maybe catch an evening musical show at Anchor's Aweigh which is quite famous; look into the Western Boat Pond Tour (which would be an additional 45 minute drive one way if you do it from Deer Lake) and then you'll be in an excellent position to get to L'anse aux Meadows before noon to maximize your one night there. We left Rocky Harbour at 7am and were having breakfast near L'Anse at 11am --- and it was foggy and rainy! I'd recommend our efficiency unit in Rocky Harbour - the two bedroom unit would be perfect for your family.

http://baysidegrosmorne.com/

- In L'anse aux Meadows we stayed at Snorri Cabins which is about 3km from the National Park site - another great 2 bedroom option for you

http://www.snorricabins.com/

- we visited both the public and private attractions and liked both of them very much. Info in my trip report. Also enjoyed dinner at the Norseman - link in TR

- right by Snorri cabins there are signs for boat tours to see the icebergs --- just small outboard boats but it looked like a fun half hour.

- then you could go to Labrador and come back to Deer Lake - the next full day you could explore the Bonne Bay arm of the park and do the Tablelands hike which is supposed to be beautiful (too wet when we were there). And it's a slightly shorter drive from Deer Lake than Rocky Harbour area which you'll already have stayed in

- you and your son have 3 places you're considering staying during your visit - Trinity, Eastport and Conception Bay. Trinity can easily use another day (or two) and you can drive from Trinity to the St John's airport (so long as your flight isn't really early - ours was 11am) So maybe depart your cottage in the Irish Loop and go to Eastport which breaks up the drive to Deer Lake then after your husband leaves depart Deer Lake for Trinity (long-ish drive but easy) for 3 nights and maybe Conception Bay for two nights. Or extend Trinity to 4 nights (lots to do) and go back to St. John's for 1 night?

Sorry for the long post!
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Old Feb 15th, 2015, 08:24 AM
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I just re-read your itinerary and now realize your husband flies into St. John's with you (duh). In that case I'd change my comments as follows:

- cut one night out of the back end of Deer Lake (Gros Morne) and add it to the period between the Irish Loop and Gros Morne. I would consider going to Twillingate for 3 nights - it gives you a similar feeling to Fogo without having to juggle the ferry schedule (it's a long-ish drive but we like to drive and enjoyed driving in NL). Then drive to Rocky Harbour and carry on with my suggestions above.

I think the Twillingate experience is a nice addition versus "extra" time in Gros Morne. Of course both would be preferable but we all have to make choices!
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Old Feb 15th, 2015, 03:06 PM
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I thought I'd replied, but just checked, and my message isn't here. So here I go again! Thanks, Elizabeth, for your advice. I had already read your great trip report and blog, and appreciate your advice, and suggestions regarding efficiencies. I'm thinking that you're right about staying in Rocky Harbor, and cutting back on our time in Gros Mourne overall. We're trying to save money, but it doesn't make sense to plan so much time around some free nights.

But I'm wondering, are you suggesting that we spend time in Twillingate instead of Trinity on the way there? You also mentioned Eastport on the way to Gros Mourne. I want my husband, while he's there, to see the very best, and from what you've said, Trinity is awesome. But are you saying to do Twillingate first (with my husband), and Trinity later? Which is more "don't miss"? I"d ruled out Fogo/Twillingate because of the long drive. When it's just my husband and me, we could drive forever. But my son gets weary (6'4" cooped up in a car). But if it's a "don't miss," that changes things. So if you were my husband, and had three nights, would it be Trinity, Eastport, or Twillingate? Once I figure that out, I can plan from there.

We're from the US, so will have to look into the cellphone situation. Thanks for the heads up on that.

Thanks again for your help! I don't know anyone who has visited Newfoundland!
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Old Feb 15th, 2015, 03:15 PM
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Elizabeth S makes some very good suggestions.

Even if the accommodation is free, I would not stay in Deer Lake for even one night, let alone four. I am speaking from experience having stayed there for a night on two separate trips, mainly to be close to the airport.

If you are going to visit Gros Morne Park, then stay in the park--Rocky Harbour has a variety of accommodation, and there are also several nice places in Norris Point. I have stayed in both locations and in Woody Point on the south side of Bonne Bay as well.

You might also want to rethink your trip to l'Anse aux Meadows. It's definitely worth a visit but given the distance, I would suggest a minimum of two nights there. On both visits I have stayed at what I regard as one of the best B&Bs in Newfoundland if not Canada--The Tickle Inn at Cape Onion. I have recommended it to a number of friends, all of whom have raved about it after their stay. http://tickleinn.net

You mentioned that your husband is keen on seeing Labrador, but you might want to reconsider. I know that the National Historic Site at Red Bay is a very significant one, but one needs much imagination to visualize the old Basque Whaling site, as all the digs have been recovered and small signs placed to indicate what was there. This is also the case at L'Anse aux Meadows, but of course as well as the archaeological site, there is the recreation of the Viking Village with excellent animators. I think that if I were crossing to Labrador again, I would continue on to Battle Harbour and stay overnight there. However, given ferry times and about 90 km of unpaved road from Red Bay on, you would need at least 3 days to do it. On balance I think your time would be better spent in the lAne aux Meadows and St. Anthony area.

I agree with Elizabeth S that Trinity is worth more than two nights. As well as the village itself and the Skerwink Trail at Port Rexton, Bonavista is a short drive and just south of Trinity Bay is New Bonaventure where you can visit the film set of Random Passage, and take a fascinating boat tour of the abandoned outports in the area from Rugged Beauty Tours http://www.ruggedbeautyboattours.net Much of the recent film "The Grand Seduction" was filmed here as well.--if you haven't seen it yet, you must do so.

I agree that Twillingate is worth a visit, as is Fogo Island--but you would lose time at both ends waiting for the ferry and on the crossing itself. If you do go to Fogo Island, take some time en route to visit Change Islands which really takes one back in time, even more so than Fogo itself

The Eastport area is a good place to break a trip across the island. You might want to look at Happy Adventure where there is a nice modern inn. Salvage is worth visiting, but I don't think there are any accommodations there.

If this is your first trip to Newfoundland, I am sure than once you have visited, it will not be your last!
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Old Feb 15th, 2015, 03:35 PM
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CindyW, I just saw your latest post.

In order of attraction, I would put Trinity first, then Twillingate, and Eastport last. Trinity is the place you should see with your husband. Eastport is simply a convenient place to break your trip.

Coming back from Deer Lake to St. John's, you might want to consider two nights in Twillingate instead of Eastport, or even three, taking one night from the three at Conception Bay.
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Old Feb 15th, 2015, 06:25 PM
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So I just told my husband all of this, and he said, "But, yeah, but then you can't say you've been to Labrador!" Ha1 That's what I'm dealing with!

Thanks for the great input!
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 03:24 AM
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If that's the only reason, then forget it. Not worth the time and effort. Tell him he can say that he's been to Newfoundland and Labrador, which is the official name of the province.
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 05:11 AM
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Sorry about my complete lack of clarity!!! To answer your question - I think Trinity is a must see for your husband....and as many nights as you can muster. There is so much to do and July should be great for whales/puffins/etc (and maybe bergs but that's unpredictable).

Regarding L'Anse aux Meadows - I kind of regretted not going to Labrador (for your husband's reason!). We really enjoyed our time there but that was due in part to a familial connection (Icelandic roots). If it's something you're really interested in I'm sure you'll enjoy it, otherwise (and I'm wording this carefully) it was probably the least scenic area we visited. The towns aren't quite as cute and charming as other areas of NL that are featured in the posters. (but we loved it anyway - just saying that because you mentioned scenery as a primary interest). So you might want to consider Fogo/Twillingate as a complete alternative for when you're all together.

Separate comment - if you do Trinity on your way to Gros Morne then that opens up Twillingate/Fogo for you and your son since you have 5 nights to play with after your husband leaves.
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 07:35 AM
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I just found out that the perfect place that we wanted to rent on the Irish Loop isn't available at the beginning of our trip. So please be patient with me! I am wondering now where the Irish Loop would fall on your list of "must sees.' Because if it's not a 'must see' for my husband, then I am thinking that my son and I could end up there, just enjoying the ocean and some hikes. And that then we could begin our trip (with husband) doing Conception Bay, Trinity, etc. Can you give me opinions on this? Also, I found a great place on the tip of Conception Bay, but am thinking, from what you're saying, that Twillingate would be more beautiful?

Also, thank you both for your guidance regarding Labrador! It sounds, really, like it's not the best way to spend our time, and I like your point, Laverndyre, about it all being one province! He can still say he's been there! We were in Singapore once, and had the chance to ride the train into Malaysia for the afternoon, and did, and it was wonderful. And once we were in Italy, and there was a train strike, so we had to rent a car to drive to Venice, and when we got close to Florence, though it wasn't on our plans, he said, "I'm NOT going to be this close to Florence, and not go there." So there we went, as I read aloud from the Rick Steve's tourbook something like, "Do not, I repeat, do NOT try to drive in Florence." So that's all to say that I appreciate his wanting to see everything. But I'm hearing you guys say that this isn't Malaysia or Florence or the most charming part of NL! So thanks!

I'm not feeling so keen on the L'anse au Meadows--sounds like a lot of driving, and not much dramatic scenery...Still thinking!
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 07:54 AM
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Okay, it's me again. So what about: 2 nights St. Johns, 4 north of Trinity Bay, 3 Twillingate, 3 Gros Mourne area, 2 Eastport or somewhere in-between, 3 Irish Loop?
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 09:35 AM
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Hi Cindy - I think that's a lovely itinerary .... if you're happy to leave off L'Anse. When it comes to Newfoundland there is definitely a surfeit of riches!

We liked our efficiency unit in Witless Bay (pics in TR) which is a good staging location for the Irish Loop and the cute towns in and around St. John's.

http://www.witlessbaysuites.com/



And also really liked our location in Port Rexton (near Trinity). Very near the start of the Skerwink Trail and easy access to the other lovely sites north of Trinity/Port Rexton (puffins!)

http://www.sherwoodsuites.com/index.htm

Full confession - we didn't stay in Twillingate but there are many great efficiency units there as well.

Are you on Facebook? There is a lovely FB page of local photographers in and around Twillingate -- their pics are stunning - just "like" to join it

https://www.facebook.com/groups/IslesPhotoGroup/

We'd go back in a minute!
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 11:58 AM
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Your itinerary looks good, but I would be inclined to stay one night at Eastport. Add another night to the Irish Loop, as there is lots to see on the southern Avalon and around St. John's. This would give you time as well to visit the Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve south of Placentia.

http://www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/...Go/CapeStMarys

One thing in favour of Eastport, if you decide to stay there for 2 nights is the beaches. As I recall there are a couple on either side of the peninsula, Eastport Beach and Sandy Cove. Don't count on swimming however as the water could still be quite cold, even in mid-July as I found out. There aren't many sandy beaches suitable for ocean swimming in Newfoundland because of the frigid waters. Your best bet might be while you are visiting Gros Morne NP. Shallow Beach, near Cow Head, has relatively warm water because it is, as the name suggests, very shallow. Again, in July, I found it quite pleasant if a little brisk. Remember that there are still likely to be icebergs in the waters off Newfoundland when you will be there.
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Old Feb 16th, 2015, 01:47 PM
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Oh, I don' t know what I would have done without the two of you! I've pretty much pinned everything down, and feel great about our itinerary! We'll be in St. John's two nights, Conception Bay 2 (cottage overlooking the ocean next to hiking trails), Elliston 3 (cottage above beach), Twillingate 2 (Daisy's Place), Deer Lake Holiday Inn 1, Rocky Harbour 1, Holiday Inn 1 (hubby flies out early am). Then my son and I will stop two places to break up the trip to Cape Broyle where we'll stay for three nights. I'll take your advice into account, Laverndrye, and check out St. Mary's. Also, I found a neat set of cabins right above Sandy Cove, and I think my son would love it there.

Thanks for the tip about Cow Head, too. My son is braver than we are, and has been known to swim in some pretty frigid waters, so we'll see!

SO thank you so much! I'll keep checking back to see if anyone has anymore advice, and of course, will post a report when we get back. I'm sure I'll have a bunch of other questions, too. But want to say thank you SO much!
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Old Feb 17th, 2015, 05:23 AM
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Glad you're happy! I'd still advocate for 2 nights in Rocky Harbour versus 1-1-1. Also you might want to just stop one night and add the night to Cape Broyle.

If either of you have an interest in aviation you might want to stop in Gander for that one night - there is a memorial to US army soldiers who died in the 1985 Arrow Air crash, and the aviation museum has a memorial to 9/11 and pieces of the World Trade Center girders - given in thanks and memory for the treatment of US planes on 9/11 and after.

http://northatlanticaviationmuseum.com/

On that subject you may want to read "The Day the World Came to Town" - a moving recounting of the events after 9/11 in Gander and area

http://www.amazon.ca/The-Day-World-C.../dp/0060559713

And this short article about the town of Lewisporte and the continuing relationship it has with its "Plane People"

http://www.globalatlanta.com/article...canadian-host/

Another book to read is Shipping News by Annie Proulx and the movie (with Kevin Spacey).
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Old Feb 17th, 2015, 06:23 AM
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I agree with Elizabeth about Rocky Harbour vs Deer Lake. Obviously with an early flight out it is a good idea to stay there the night before, but other than the free accommodation I can't see any good reason to stay in Deer Lake on the way from Twillingate to Rocky Harbour. No to offend those who live there, but there is little of interest or charm about it. It serves as a convenient stop on the Trans-Canada and of course has the main commercial airport for the west side of the island.

If you are going to eat out there, it is mostly fast food places with the exception of the Deer Lake Motel which has a decent restaurant. At Jungle Jim's, a Newfoundland chain restaurant, I had what was by far the worst meal of any in all my 4 visits to Newfoundland.

A minor correction on my earlier post. The beach near Cow Head in Gros Morne NP is Shallow Bay Beach.
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Old Feb 17th, 2015, 06:27 PM
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I read "The Shipping News" years ago, but need to read it again! Thanks for the other suggestions, too. In regards to the first night at Deer Lake, I'm thinking that we we'll be driving all day, and won't get in till late, and won't want to ride through Gros Mourne that late. So that's my thought--does that not make sense? And, my son will be glad for some fast food! But I'll avoid Jungle Jim's!

By the way, I found some great photos that you might enjoy: http://www.canadiannaturephotographe...foundland.html Gorgeous!
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Old Feb 18th, 2015, 05:24 AM
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Cindy - I think you'll be OK because sunset is still pretty late in late July (see sunset hours for Deer Lake link below). The google map says the driving time from Twillingate to Rocky Harbour is 5 hours and 10 minutes - we found the google driving times to be accurate (well, we are pretty fast drivers so actually beat the times but not everyone does that I realize!)

https://www.google.ca/maps/dir/Twill...49.5904818!3e0

So if you get away from Twillingate by 10am and take your time you'll still be in Rocky Harbour before 6pm - it will still be bright and sunny at that hour I would think.


http://www.sunrise-and-sunset.com/en...lake/2015/july

That's so funny you should post that link! I found it too when I was researching for our trip and it was a major reason we went to Mistaken Point (although sadly the road was washed out so we couldn't see the fossils). Beautiful pics, aren't they?
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Old Feb 18th, 2015, 07:22 PM
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Thanks for the great info! When do you get to go back?
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Old Mar 4th, 2015, 08:57 AM
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Sounds like a wonderful trip. I just finished reading a very entertaining book about Canada working west to east so, of course, ending in Newfoundland. If you haven't read it, you might enjoy it while preparing for your trip. It is "Beauty Tips From Moose Jaw" by Will Ferguson. I've been reading it while on my way to work on the Skytrain here in Vancouver and found myself laughing out loud. The last chapter on his visit to Newfoundland was hilarious. Enjoy!
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