Our familys trip to South Island -Report February 2007
Feb 22nd, 2007, 09:41 PM
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Our familys trip to South Island -Report February 2007
Hi all and many thanks for everybody's posts which were of great help when planning our trip.
We returned yesterday after nearly 2 weeks. The "we" are myself,my husband,three daughters Clara 21, Genevieve 19 and Charlotte 13.
Being a group of five and with such a diversity of ages our trips tend be interesting and at times challenging; for example we need two taxis, two bedrooms etc. Also, some years back I laid down one non-negotiable rule, "carry on luggage only", because the idea of lugging five suitcases around filled me with dread.
This trip was to travel together as a family as our older girls are off on university exchanges, one to St Petersburg and one to New Jersey. Also I wanted to introduce the South Island to our daughters given that I'd backpacked and hiked across it on several occassions quite a few years ago,way before the gray hair era !
Consequently our accommodations varied from the YHA to budget as well as a 5 star here and there.
....and so off to CHRISTCHURCH from Sydney flying Emirates for the first time;the usual airline offerings( we flew economy) with one notable difference of a huge choice of entertainment on the personal screens; the three hour flight passed quickly.
At the airport we were welcomed with flowers because mid February (9-18) is the Flower Festival time and many interesting exhibitions,talks and concerts are organised throughout the city. I was a goner!The programme included Begonias in the Botanic Gardens,Sunflower competition,Wearable Flowers costumes display,Gardening in Times Past and many many others.
In CHRISTCHURCH we stayed in a two bedroom, 2 bathroom plus kitchen apartment at the YMCA.($NZ150) Immaculately kept rooms, clean and sparsely but adequately furnished. The girls used the gym and had a game of squash. There is a cafeteria style of restaurant at something like $13NZ per three courses. Certainly not a place to stay if you are looking for 4/5 star but perfectly located just a short walk to the Cathedral Square and the Botanic Garden with the Art Centre opposite. Also your money goes to help with YMCA's programmes for the youth.
We ate at the Bakery at the Art Centre which is opposite the YMCA. Excellent art and craft galleries;my favourite was the Salamander Gallery where I bought a painting which we then had to lug all around the island.
After 5pm most things close and the Cathedral Square during the week is pretty dead. Also there is no supermarkets in the centre of town and if you want to buy food eg breakfast provisions you need to walk 20-30 minutes.
The next morning we ordered a large taxi ($NZ12)and headed to the railway station for the Transalpine train trip to Greymouth.
We returned yesterday after nearly 2 weeks. The "we" are myself,my husband,three daughters Clara 21, Genevieve 19 and Charlotte 13.
Being a group of five and with such a diversity of ages our trips tend be interesting and at times challenging; for example we need two taxis, two bedrooms etc. Also, some years back I laid down one non-negotiable rule, "carry on luggage only", because the idea of lugging five suitcases around filled me with dread.
This trip was to travel together as a family as our older girls are off on university exchanges, one to St Petersburg and one to New Jersey. Also I wanted to introduce the South Island to our daughters given that I'd backpacked and hiked across it on several occassions quite a few years ago,way before the gray hair era !
Consequently our accommodations varied from the YHA to budget as well as a 5 star here and there.
....and so off to CHRISTCHURCH from Sydney flying Emirates for the first time;the usual airline offerings( we flew economy) with one notable difference of a huge choice of entertainment on the personal screens; the three hour flight passed quickly.
At the airport we were welcomed with flowers because mid February (9-18) is the Flower Festival time and many interesting exhibitions,talks and concerts are organised throughout the city. I was a goner!The programme included Begonias in the Botanic Gardens,Sunflower competition,Wearable Flowers costumes display,Gardening in Times Past and many many others.
In CHRISTCHURCH we stayed in a two bedroom, 2 bathroom plus kitchen apartment at the YMCA.($NZ150) Immaculately kept rooms, clean and sparsely but adequately furnished. The girls used the gym and had a game of squash. There is a cafeteria style of restaurant at something like $13NZ per three courses. Certainly not a place to stay if you are looking for 4/5 star but perfectly located just a short walk to the Cathedral Square and the Botanic Garden with the Art Centre opposite. Also your money goes to help with YMCA's programmes for the youth.
We ate at the Bakery at the Art Centre which is opposite the YMCA. Excellent art and craft galleries;my favourite was the Salamander Gallery where I bought a painting which we then had to lug all around the island.
After 5pm most things close and the Cathedral Square during the week is pretty dead. Also there is no supermarkets in the centre of town and if you want to buy food eg breakfast provisions you need to walk 20-30 minutes.
The next morning we ordered a large taxi ($NZ12)and headed to the railway station for the Transalpine train trip to Greymouth.
Feb 23rd, 2007, 12:24 AM
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Before describing out train trip a couple of general comments:
- Is is easy, in the planning stage, to underestimate the time it takes to drive between various locations.Even a relatively short drive of say 3 hours becomes very tiring because, in addition to steep roads, slower vehicles and the like, there is a massive rush of impressions at the scenic beauty around you. While wonderful it also does tire one out, so my advice would be to cut the number of locations if need be and really enjoy meandering around the island.
- for those used to driving on "the other side" of the road please please please take care when pulling out after a stop. We witnessed two accidents on the way to Milford Sound. the next day we read in the regional newspaper that both cars were driven by Canadians, one an elderly couple, probably enjoying retirement travels.All were airlifted to hospitals and one was going to be charged.
- Most people seem to travel from Christchurch via the Transalpine train on to Franz Joesph, Queenstown, the fjordland etc then going back to Christchurch. On reflection I would travel by car from Christchurch and finsh off with the Transalpine train, dropping the car off in Greymouth
- accommodation: winging it vs booking ahead. While I prefer winging it, this time I am glad we prebooked our accommodation. In places like Franz Joseph, Te Anau and Queenstown there was nil vacancy before lunchtime, an observation confirmed by several proprietors I had chatted with. They said that up to Easter it is very busy. Even some restaurants are apparently booked well in advance so if you have your heart set on a particular accommodation and/or restaurant do book ahead.
Mind you some retaurants do not take bookings such as the Kepler in Te Anau; we walked past about 7.30 pm both nights and were told we could have a table around 9pm.
Still there is always a picnic dinner on the side of the most spectacular road or lake or river if all else fails
Now on to the TRANSALPINE train journey from Christchurch to Greymouth.
I booked on line from Sydney and was carrying a confirmation email.Please note that there are no discounts for students other than the New Zealand ones although Charlotte qualified for the child rate.
I noticed many posters stated that one must sit on the right side of the train for better views, so I was a tad put out to find our seats were on the left hand side. apparently seats are preallocated and unless you make a request at the time of the booking you get what you get.
However I hasten to state that whether right or left matters not a jot!! The panoramic windows allow for views on both sides. We did not even bother going out to the viewing deck. More about the viewing deck shortly..
The carriage we were in (carriage E at the end of the train) had four seats facing each other across a table which means some people travel backwards, so if that is an issue for you please mention it at booking time; there were other carriages which had all seats facing forward with no tables.
The luggage car is at the very end of the train and before finding your seat you need to line up to hand in your luggage. the day we travelled the train was 100% full so it took a while to get everybodys luggage on so if you want to avoid a long queue I suggest arriving a bit earlier than the rail shuttle andf the tour groups- say 30-40 minutes before departure time, otherwise just enjoy chatting with your fellow-queuers (!)
There are many tunnels and bridges to cross and you see the views that you normally would not see. Apparently the Transalpine is only viable because of the coal trains which the line exists for. I wonder if it will continue if coal usage diminishes- as it should- in the context of reversing the climate change and lowering emissions.
There is a kiosk on board serving nice muffins ($NZ2.50), tea ($NZ2.50), other dishes from $2.50-$9.00. My suggestion would be NOT to go to either the cafe or the viewing deck straight away when the annoucements are made about their availability especially when the train is full. There are long queues.You will hear the NZ accent in its full glory when the conductor invites you to "go on to the deck" -,remember that the NZ e is prounounced as "i/y"...;-)
- Is is easy, in the planning stage, to underestimate the time it takes to drive between various locations.Even a relatively short drive of say 3 hours becomes very tiring because, in addition to steep roads, slower vehicles and the like, there is a massive rush of impressions at the scenic beauty around you. While wonderful it also does tire one out, so my advice would be to cut the number of locations if need be and really enjoy meandering around the island.
- for those used to driving on "the other side" of the road please please please take care when pulling out after a stop. We witnessed two accidents on the way to Milford Sound. the next day we read in the regional newspaper that both cars were driven by Canadians, one an elderly couple, probably enjoying retirement travels.All were airlifted to hospitals and one was going to be charged.
- Most people seem to travel from Christchurch via the Transalpine train on to Franz Joesph, Queenstown, the fjordland etc then going back to Christchurch. On reflection I would travel by car from Christchurch and finsh off with the Transalpine train, dropping the car off in Greymouth
- accommodation: winging it vs booking ahead. While I prefer winging it, this time I am glad we prebooked our accommodation. In places like Franz Joseph, Te Anau and Queenstown there was nil vacancy before lunchtime, an observation confirmed by several proprietors I had chatted with. They said that up to Easter it is very busy. Even some restaurants are apparently booked well in advance so if you have your heart set on a particular accommodation and/or restaurant do book ahead.
Mind you some retaurants do not take bookings such as the Kepler in Te Anau; we walked past about 7.30 pm both nights and were told we could have a table around 9pm.
Still there is always a picnic dinner on the side of the most spectacular road or lake or river if all else fails
Now on to the TRANSALPINE train journey from Christchurch to Greymouth.
I booked on line from Sydney and was carrying a confirmation email.Please note that there are no discounts for students other than the New Zealand ones although Charlotte qualified for the child rate.
I noticed many posters stated that one must sit on the right side of the train for better views, so I was a tad put out to find our seats were on the left hand side. apparently seats are preallocated and unless you make a request at the time of the booking you get what you get.
However I hasten to state that whether right or left matters not a jot!! The panoramic windows allow for views on both sides. We did not even bother going out to the viewing deck. More about the viewing deck shortly..
The carriage we were in (carriage E at the end of the train) had four seats facing each other across a table which means some people travel backwards, so if that is an issue for you please mention it at booking time; there were other carriages which had all seats facing forward with no tables.
The luggage car is at the very end of the train and before finding your seat you need to line up to hand in your luggage. the day we travelled the train was 100% full so it took a while to get everybodys luggage on so if you want to avoid a long queue I suggest arriving a bit earlier than the rail shuttle andf the tour groups- say 30-40 minutes before departure time, otherwise just enjoy chatting with your fellow-queuers (!)
There are many tunnels and bridges to cross and you see the views that you normally would not see. Apparently the Transalpine is only viable because of the coal trains which the line exists for. I wonder if it will continue if coal usage diminishes- as it should- in the context of reversing the climate change and lowering emissions.
There is a kiosk on board serving nice muffins ($NZ2.50), tea ($NZ2.50), other dishes from $2.50-$9.00. My suggestion would be NOT to go to either the cafe or the viewing deck straight away when the annoucements are made about their availability especially when the train is full. There are long queues.You will hear the NZ accent in its full glory when the conductor invites you to "go on to the deck" -,remember that the NZ e is prounounced as "i/y"...;-)
Feb 23rd, 2007, 10:33 AM
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angelnot1, I am enjoying reading your trip report, and the experiences you had which we left out of this trip. Sounds like a great trip! Christchurch sounds pretty, but we couldn't fit in everything. Next time...
I agree about accomodations being totally booked, especially on the west coast! We had pre-booked everyplace, and while at the Wilderness Lodge Lake Moeraki, we met a woman travelling alone, who was DESPERATE for a place to stay as the west coast was all booked, and she had been driving a long time and was tired and sick!!! The only room left was at the expensive Wilderness Lodge...she said, I'll take it.
We booked at the Wilderness Lodge because it was a splurge anniversary trip. But she said the room was more than she had planned on paying but she just couldn't drive anymore and everyplace was booked.
So, yeah, I agree, book ahead, especially in the busy seasons.
I agree about accomodations being totally booked, especially on the west coast! We had pre-booked everyplace, and while at the Wilderness Lodge Lake Moeraki, we met a woman travelling alone, who was DESPERATE for a place to stay as the west coast was all booked, and she had been driving a long time and was tired and sick!!! The only room left was at the expensive Wilderness Lodge...she said, I'll take it.
We booked at the Wilderness Lodge because it was a splurge anniversary trip. But she said the room was more than she had planned on paying but she just couldn't drive anymore and everyplace was booked.
So, yeah, I agree, book ahead, especially in the busy seasons.
Feb 23rd, 2007, 04:49 PM
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Melissa5 - your anniversary trip sounds wonderful!! I loved your description of the overnight stay on the Sound.
I looked at the Wilderness Lodge and the Blanket Bay Lodge but will leave it until we can return without the "ballast of children"(much as I love them they do consume your resources!)
Thanks Yelpir -you have inspired me to keep going...
GREYMOUTH to FRANZ JOSEPH
The Transalpine stops here and there,dependent on who is boarding or leaving the train at any given location.Our carriage became empty at Jacksons Landing,seemingly in the middle of nowhere, as a large group of Americans left for the cycling part of their tour.
At Greymouth station the car rental representatives meet you at the luggage collection carrying a board with your name.
We hired a Nissan maxima (from NZ rent a Car) which was comfortable for five people, although we later discovereed that the shock absorbers were a tad worn!
We did not stop in Greymouth and as much as I wanted to visit the Pancake Rocks we had decided to keep our trip manageable so turned away towards Franz Joseph. There is never enough time to see it all.
We headed out to Hokitika and stopped at several lookouts 'oohing' and 'aaahing' at the views. Hokitika is a busy town, with many tour buses stopping at the jade and gold shops.
There certainly are some lovely pieces in the various shops although I found after one or two they looked similar.
It reminded me of visiting the crown jewels rooms in Teheran years ago, while the Shah was still in power,- after a while one egg-sized emerald looked like another egg-sized emerald;ditto in London.
Our daughters disagreed with my view,so they continued from one shop to another while we went to the glass factory/shop.There were some nice pieces there and a lot of mass- produced ones which were still good quality. You can observe the glass being melted and shaped.
Our family came together again in front of the fudge and icecream shop. After tortuous indecision as to which flavour to have the girls decided on baileys irish cream fudge ($5NZ for a largeish thick round slice).
We then had a very very late lunch at Cafe du Paris - typical cafe style food at typical cafe prices. The best dish was a seared lamb and couscus salad with coriander dressing($16NZ)and lasagne($8NZ)
We then set off again and came to a screaming halt at the bridge of WARATOHA river. The colour of the water was amazing-'aqua' barely does it justice. There is not very much room to park around the bridge so we turned left on to a gravel road directly after the bridge and drove right to the banks of the river - takes less than 1 minute.
At the river there is also a helicopter flight operator who seemed willing to negotiate prices and is less expensive than those in Franz Joseph.
We had lovely time just looking at the river and skipping stones in the age- old tradition everywhere.
Later I found out that the amazing colour is created by what is known as "rock flour" i.e sediment created by grinding of rocks by the glaciers. This combined with the reflection of the sun produces the intense aqua colour. At times it looks almost unreal.
Back on the road we again stopped at an enormous lake with grassy banks- perfect for a picnic stop (can't remember its name)
to be continued
I looked at the Wilderness Lodge and the Blanket Bay Lodge but will leave it until we can return without the "ballast of children"(much as I love them they do consume your resources!)
Thanks Yelpir -you have inspired me to keep going...
GREYMOUTH to FRANZ JOSEPH
The Transalpine stops here and there,dependent on who is boarding or leaving the train at any given location.Our carriage became empty at Jacksons Landing,seemingly in the middle of nowhere, as a large group of Americans left for the cycling part of their tour.
At Greymouth station the car rental representatives meet you at the luggage collection carrying a board with your name.
We hired a Nissan maxima (from NZ rent a Car) which was comfortable for five people, although we later discovereed that the shock absorbers were a tad worn!
We did not stop in Greymouth and as much as I wanted to visit the Pancake Rocks we had decided to keep our trip manageable so turned away towards Franz Joseph. There is never enough time to see it all.
We headed out to Hokitika and stopped at several lookouts 'oohing' and 'aaahing' at the views. Hokitika is a busy town, with many tour buses stopping at the jade and gold shops.
There certainly are some lovely pieces in the various shops although I found after one or two they looked similar.
It reminded me of visiting the crown jewels rooms in Teheran years ago, while the Shah was still in power,- after a while one egg-sized emerald looked like another egg-sized emerald;ditto in London.
Our daughters disagreed with my view,so they continued from one shop to another while we went to the glass factory/shop.There were some nice pieces there and a lot of mass- produced ones which were still good quality. You can observe the glass being melted and shaped.
Our family came together again in front of the fudge and icecream shop. After tortuous indecision as to which flavour to have the girls decided on baileys irish cream fudge ($5NZ for a largeish thick round slice).
We then had a very very late lunch at Cafe du Paris - typical cafe style food at typical cafe prices. The best dish was a seared lamb and couscus salad with coriander dressing($16NZ)and lasagne($8NZ)
We then set off again and came to a screaming halt at the bridge of WARATOHA river. The colour of the water was amazing-'aqua' barely does it justice. There is not very much room to park around the bridge so we turned left on to a gravel road directly after the bridge and drove right to the banks of the river - takes less than 1 minute.
At the river there is also a helicopter flight operator who seemed willing to negotiate prices and is less expensive than those in Franz Joseph.
We had lovely time just looking at the river and skipping stones in the age- old tradition everywhere.
Later I found out that the amazing colour is created by what is known as "rock flour" i.e sediment created by grinding of rocks by the glaciers. This combined with the reflection of the sun produces the intense aqua colour. At times it looks almost unreal.
Back on the road we again stopped at an enormous lake with grassy banks- perfect for a picnic stop (can't remember its name)
to be continued
Feb 23rd, 2007, 05:38 PM
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continued...FRANZ JOSEPH
When we finally arrived in Franz Joseph, the township was hopping: buses,motor homes,cars, mountain bikes, multitude of people and helicopters whirring overhead.
Franz Joseph is obviously a hub from which people go off on different adventures.The 'no vacancy' signs were everywhere.
There is a small but well stocked supermarket open till 8pm (I think), several information/internet shops and masses of tour operators.
We were staying at the YHA - the girls in a six bed female dorm and we in a double room with ensuite.
Things have certainly changed since my hostelling days (ensuite???!!)but in some respects it has remained the same - the international community of travellers coming together before heading off to their diverse destinations.
We cooked dinner in the communal kitchen which was fun as there were many young, and not so young, people interacting over the gas cooktops.
A young Frenchman was creating a trout almondine dish, complete with a sprig of parsley. A German couple run out of butter so we shared some of ours. We did the iconic spaghetti bolognaise.
There is a sizeable dining room as well as some outside tables. The internet access is in the communal living room next to the dining room. There is also a sauna further down the corridor.
All very basic but fun and 100% full. The total cost $80 NZ for the double and $23 NZ per dorm bed.
The next morning we went walking. If you don't want to do a major hike there are plenty of shorter walks and the information centre has all the details plus maps.
We then drove to the car park at the end of the town and took another walk- a short one to Peter's Pools. It takes maybe 20 minutes of well graded, easy track with one slight climb but very manageable.
You walk among the trees and suddenly come to a claring with a couple of benches and to your right you see the glacier in all its glory as well as a small lake at your feet.
If you wish you can continue the walk for another 25 minutes to the suspension bridge. The track does climb but it is a doable incline although it will definitely give you a cardio workout. If you want to, you can keep going for another hour or so.
We were going to go horse riding but decided to leave it until the Lord of the Rings country. One of the Franz Joseph based horse treks companies is South Westland Horse Treks and they do 1hr,2hr,3hr and full day,as well as evening treks.
After our walk we set off for WANAKA.
We decided to stay in Wanaka to break our journey to Te Anau. Initially we thought we would visit the Milford Sound from Queenstown but the idea of four or so hours drive one way knocked the idea on the head. It is doable and many tours and independent travellers do so, just not for us 'the meanderers'.
One comment-allow AT LEAST 5 hours between Franz Joseph and Wanaka (with 1-2 shortish stops). Most maps under estimate the time involved as it is a one lane, winding road which for large part clings to the side of lakes and goes through the mountain passes.It is a beautiful and easy drive but cannot be rushed.
Lake Hawea is superb-35 km long, beautiful water, snow capped mountains ringing the lake. Mount Aspiring is awe inspiring. Then there is Clutha river and Lake Wanaka, 45 km long. As the lakes and rivers appearand reappear you have an amazing feeling of being in the middle of a scenic dreamtime.
In Wanaka we stayed at the Belvedere Luxury Apartments in Warren street.(2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, sofa bed in the living room, kitchen, washing machine/dryer and balcony with a table and chairs.Cost $173 NZ. It is about two or three streets from the lake. The complex is new and very modern and immaculately maintained. We found it a little small for five and also there was no airconditioning although there was heating. There was underground carpark with lockers for skis. A lift
takes you up to the apartments.
wanaka tbc
When we finally arrived in Franz Joseph, the township was hopping: buses,motor homes,cars, mountain bikes, multitude of people and helicopters whirring overhead.
Franz Joseph is obviously a hub from which people go off on different adventures.The 'no vacancy' signs were everywhere.
There is a small but well stocked supermarket open till 8pm (I think), several information/internet shops and masses of tour operators.
We were staying at the YHA - the girls in a six bed female dorm and we in a double room with ensuite.
Things have certainly changed since my hostelling days (ensuite???!!)but in some respects it has remained the same - the international community of travellers coming together before heading off to their diverse destinations.
We cooked dinner in the communal kitchen which was fun as there were many young, and not so young, people interacting over the gas cooktops.
A young Frenchman was creating a trout almondine dish, complete with a sprig of parsley. A German couple run out of butter so we shared some of ours. We did the iconic spaghetti bolognaise.
There is a sizeable dining room as well as some outside tables. The internet access is in the communal living room next to the dining room. There is also a sauna further down the corridor.
All very basic but fun and 100% full. The total cost $80 NZ for the double and $23 NZ per dorm bed.
The next morning we went walking. If you don't want to do a major hike there are plenty of shorter walks and the information centre has all the details plus maps.
We then drove to the car park at the end of the town and took another walk- a short one to Peter's Pools. It takes maybe 20 minutes of well graded, easy track with one slight climb but very manageable.
You walk among the trees and suddenly come to a claring with a couple of benches and to your right you see the glacier in all its glory as well as a small lake at your feet.
If you wish you can continue the walk for another 25 minutes to the suspension bridge. The track does climb but it is a doable incline although it will definitely give you a cardio workout. If you want to, you can keep going for another hour or so.
We were going to go horse riding but decided to leave it until the Lord of the Rings country. One of the Franz Joseph based horse treks companies is South Westland Horse Treks and they do 1hr,2hr,3hr and full day,as well as evening treks.
After our walk we set off for WANAKA.
We decided to stay in Wanaka to break our journey to Te Anau. Initially we thought we would visit the Milford Sound from Queenstown but the idea of four or so hours drive one way knocked the idea on the head. It is doable and many tours and independent travellers do so, just not for us 'the meanderers'.
One comment-allow AT LEAST 5 hours between Franz Joseph and Wanaka (with 1-2 shortish stops). Most maps under estimate the time involved as it is a one lane, winding road which for large part clings to the side of lakes and goes through the mountain passes.It is a beautiful and easy drive but cannot be rushed.
Lake Hawea is superb-35 km long, beautiful water, snow capped mountains ringing the lake. Mount Aspiring is awe inspiring. Then there is Clutha river and Lake Wanaka, 45 km long. As the lakes and rivers appearand reappear you have an amazing feeling of being in the middle of a scenic dreamtime.
In Wanaka we stayed at the Belvedere Luxury Apartments in Warren street.(2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, sofa bed in the living room, kitchen, washing machine/dryer and balcony with a table and chairs.Cost $173 NZ. It is about two or three streets from the lake. The complex is new and very modern and immaculately maintained. We found it a little small for five and also there was no airconditioning although there was heating. There was underground carpark with lockers for skis. A lift
takes you up to the apartments.
wanaka tbc
Feb 23rd, 2007, 07:40 PM
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WANAKA cntd then TE ANAU
There are many walks around Wanaka.Mount Iron (steepish-1.5 hours return) and Outlet track along Clutha river(1 hour) are the shortest. of course there is also the foreshore of the Lake Wanaka.
We did not have time but if you get a chance go to the movies at Cinema Paradiso.
It is a quirky place - watch out for King Kong's arm on the roof. You sit in comfortable couches and food is available. The owner puts on films as the spirit moves him -and I presume as availability dictates. He told me that he never knows too long in advance what films will be on but the selection is good.
There are plenty of eateries on the main street opposite the lake. Relishes cafe often mentioned in the posts I'd read was full as was the seafood restaurant but we were very happy with Kai Whaka Pai on the corner. Outdoor tables, relaxed atmosphere and excellent and well presented food- for example: Rump of lamb with capsicum, tomato and polenta ($24 NZ); an entree, which I had as a main, of seared salmon on bed of beans with olive tapenade and pesto ($18 NZ). The salmon was from one of the local farms; "the best"-according to Genevieve-ribeye steak($22 NZ) While not great beer drinkers we did try some NZ ales; I liked the dark ones best.
The next morning Charlotte wanted to go to the Puzzling world and the maze so we trooped off to the outskirts of town around 8 am.
You can sit in the courtyard or int the main room and have a drink and/or food and play with the wooden puzzles scattered around the tables. You can also wander into a Roman toilet complete with cleaning sponges.
For a small sum (I think it was around?$12 NZ) you can go into the illusion rooms- a hollogram, faces following you and a room of angles where the water seems to run uphill. The maze is challenging but there are 'emergency'exits. You probably need to allow about 1 hour for all this.
Outside the complex you will find people taking a photo opportunity "propping up" the leaning tower of the Puzzling World. We did too- how very cliche and touristy eh..
You could spend days even weeks in Wanaka and the region - fishing, water sports, golf,skydiving, horse riding, hiking.
For us however Wanaka was a stopover on the way to fjordlands. Little did we know that we would return ..more about that later..
There are many walks around Wanaka.Mount Iron (steepish-1.5 hours return) and Outlet track along Clutha river(1 hour) are the shortest. of course there is also the foreshore of the Lake Wanaka.
We did not have time but if you get a chance go to the movies at Cinema Paradiso.
It is a quirky place - watch out for King Kong's arm on the roof. You sit in comfortable couches and food is available. The owner puts on films as the spirit moves him -and I presume as availability dictates. He told me that he never knows too long in advance what films will be on but the selection is good.
There are plenty of eateries on the main street opposite the lake. Relishes cafe often mentioned in the posts I'd read was full as was the seafood restaurant but we were very happy with Kai Whaka Pai on the corner. Outdoor tables, relaxed atmosphere and excellent and well presented food- for example: Rump of lamb with capsicum, tomato and polenta ($24 NZ); an entree, which I had as a main, of seared salmon on bed of beans with olive tapenade and pesto ($18 NZ). The salmon was from one of the local farms; "the best"-according to Genevieve-ribeye steak($22 NZ) While not great beer drinkers we did try some NZ ales; I liked the dark ones best.
The next morning Charlotte wanted to go to the Puzzling world and the maze so we trooped off to the outskirts of town around 8 am.
You can sit in the courtyard or int the main room and have a drink and/or food and play with the wooden puzzles scattered around the tables. You can also wander into a Roman toilet complete with cleaning sponges.
For a small sum (I think it was around?$12 NZ) you can go into the illusion rooms- a hollogram, faces following you and a room of angles where the water seems to run uphill. The maze is challenging but there are 'emergency'exits. You probably need to allow about 1 hour for all this.
Outside the complex you will find people taking a photo opportunity "propping up" the leaning tower of the Puzzling World. We did too- how very cliche and touristy eh..
You could spend days even weeks in Wanaka and the region - fishing, water sports, golf,skydiving, horse riding, hiking.
For us however Wanaka was a stopover on the way to fjordlands. Little did we know that we would return ..more about that later..
Feb 23rd, 2007, 08:24 PM
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Melnq8 and mlgb -will do my best
WANAKA to TE ANAU
As I mentioned earlier we decided to head to Te Anau and then come back to Queenstown,although from Wanaka to Queenstown is only about 1 hour.
From Wanaka you can choose to go via Cromwell or through the Cardrona Valley.We chose the latter.
The scenery is amazing. It is a high road with great views to Queenstown. There is a spectacular descent with some hairpin bends but most doable if take it easy.
From the outskirts of Queenstown to Te Anau the road follows the lake and again the views are beautiful.
One comment - there are not all that many places where you can get to the edge of the lake and becaus ethe roads are narrow people tend to stop at designated clearings. I must say that I would have preferred to ramble at will but on the other hand the natural landscape is well protected this way.
Also there are no toilets except at some of the larger stopping areas - suggest carrying a roll of toilet paper.
Also be aware that the population of New Zealand is small (4 million people on both islands)so some of the towns along the way are more of tiny settlements which you can pass while you blink your eye.
We were getting hungry as we passed several of those settlements when at the turn off to Te Anau at 5 Rivers and in the middle of nowhere we saw a large galvanised structure with massive letters on the roof reading
C A F E. One could easily pass by but do stop because it has great atmosphere, good food, a small exhibition of local craft and,for those with kids, a pony,a cow and a sheep at the back. The girls proclaimed that the cafe served the best hot chocolate, bettered only by the one servied in the monastery we'd stayed in Rome and which to date they use as the benchmark. There was also a selection of soups, venison pita pockets with large salad ($18 NZ)and a variety of drinks and luscious desserts.
And so we arrived in Te Anau. how shall I describe our accommodation there ...? It was a backpackers type of complex and were were transported into the late 60s. There were two bedrooms, bathroom, living room and kitchen and all were very clean and basic.
There was a retro carpet on the floor, you know the sort of orangey swirls all over. The wallpaper was purplish with a textured motif. The television set which we never turned on was a definite 60s offering-not sure it it was colour or black and white.
The accommodation gave me an opportunity to spout a little homily on how you ned to experience a range of places to appreciate the difference. Also the cost was $ 220 NZ for two nights and after all it was clean, provided a hot shower, hot cup of tea and a base for our time in the fjordlands.
In the main street there is a supermarket and we bought breakfast provisions there as well as a baguette and picnic things for our trip to Milford Sound the next day.
IMPORTANT- do visit the chemist or supermarket in town before you set out to the sounds and buy insect repellent but ask for one specifically for sandflies. Sandflies are sneaky little creatures and you don't feel them biting and often the red spots do not come up for a few days.
We bought the recommended Ultraguard (around $16 NZ)and it worked for everybody except me!Still I probably had fewer bites than if I hadn't used it. The main areas to cover are your ankles, hands, cheeks. we also sprayed some on the clothes. the advice we were given was to put the repellent on while in the car and reapply some on arrived at Milford.
I was also told that taking vitamin B6 for some time prior to travelling helps; I guess for Aussies it might mean lots of vegemite sandwiches
I still have a few of the itchy spots and had to buy a soothing cream to relieve the itch.
WANAKA to TE ANAU
As I mentioned earlier we decided to head to Te Anau and then come back to Queenstown,although from Wanaka to Queenstown is only about 1 hour.
From Wanaka you can choose to go via Cromwell or through the Cardrona Valley.We chose the latter.
The scenery is amazing. It is a high road with great views to Queenstown. There is a spectacular descent with some hairpin bends but most doable if take it easy.
From the outskirts of Queenstown to Te Anau the road follows the lake and again the views are beautiful.
One comment - there are not all that many places where you can get to the edge of the lake and becaus ethe roads are narrow people tend to stop at designated clearings. I must say that I would have preferred to ramble at will but on the other hand the natural landscape is well protected this way.
Also there are no toilets except at some of the larger stopping areas - suggest carrying a roll of toilet paper.
Also be aware that the population of New Zealand is small (4 million people on both islands)so some of the towns along the way are more of tiny settlements which you can pass while you blink your eye.
We were getting hungry as we passed several of those settlements when at the turn off to Te Anau at 5 Rivers and in the middle of nowhere we saw a large galvanised structure with massive letters on the roof reading
C A F E. One could easily pass by but do stop because it has great atmosphere, good food, a small exhibition of local craft and,for those with kids, a pony,a cow and a sheep at the back. The girls proclaimed that the cafe served the best hot chocolate, bettered only by the one servied in the monastery we'd stayed in Rome and which to date they use as the benchmark. There was also a selection of soups, venison pita pockets with large salad ($18 NZ)and a variety of drinks and luscious desserts.
And so we arrived in Te Anau. how shall I describe our accommodation there ...? It was a backpackers type of complex and were were transported into the late 60s. There were two bedrooms, bathroom, living room and kitchen and all were very clean and basic.
There was a retro carpet on the floor, you know the sort of orangey swirls all over. The wallpaper was purplish with a textured motif. The television set which we never turned on was a definite 60s offering-not sure it it was colour or black and white.
The accommodation gave me an opportunity to spout a little homily on how you ned to experience a range of places to appreciate the difference. Also the cost was $ 220 NZ for two nights and after all it was clean, provided a hot shower, hot cup of tea and a base for our time in the fjordlands.
In the main street there is a supermarket and we bought breakfast provisions there as well as a baguette and picnic things for our trip to Milford Sound the next day.
IMPORTANT- do visit the chemist or supermarket in town before you set out to the sounds and buy insect repellent but ask for one specifically for sandflies. Sandflies are sneaky little creatures and you don't feel them biting and often the red spots do not come up for a few days.
We bought the recommended Ultraguard (around $16 NZ)and it worked for everybody except me!Still I probably had fewer bites than if I hadn't used it. The main areas to cover are your ankles, hands, cheeks. we also sprayed some on the clothes. the advice we were given was to put the repellent on while in the car and reapply some on arrived at Milford.
I was also told that taking vitamin B6 for some time prior to travelling helps; I guess for Aussies it might mean lots of vegemite sandwiches
I still have a few of the itchy spots and had to buy a soothing cream to relieve the itch.
Feb 23rd, 2007, 08:57 PM
#12
Ah yes, sandflies, I remember them well...
Interesting about Cardona Valley, someone else mentioned this drive not long ago and I've added it to my "hopefully next time" notes. Same with Peter's Pools.
Thanks for the nicely detailed report angelnot.
Interesting about Cardona Valley, someone else mentioned this drive not long ago and I've added it to my "hopefully next time" notes. Same with Peter's Pools.
Thanks for the nicely detailed report angelnot.
Feb 23rd, 2007, 11:25 PM
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Some more on Te Anau
Te Anau is a good spot for variety of activities such as horse riding (Westray Horse Treks and High Ride horse Treks around $80 NZ per rider). All major activity agencies are in town.
There is a good range of eating places all around the main street, including one called Sandfly cafe!
Keplers restaurant,mentioned on this site before, does not take bookings and was full on both nights when we walked past around 7.30pm. If you ask about restaurants at the local 4square supermarket(part of a chain) you might get a card entitling you to a free drink-sounds great if you get a table.
The first night we had dinner at Naturally Fjordland -good pasta and pizza dishes about $9-$12 NZ for small pizza. Excellent garlic bread on a pizza base and an ok house chardonnay.
The second night we bought some supplies for the girls and sent them off to the backpackers' communal kitchen to cook for themselves and meet with other young travellers. The two of us dined at la Dolce Vita -lovely breads and dipping oil and dips ($9 NZ) and an ok venison ($33 NZ)
One thing I will remember Te Anau for is the many rowan trees. I have not seen them since my childhood in my country of origin(Poland). I remember pulling the red berries from the tree and using them as earrings.- I did that again at my -aahem-more mature age- and felt wonderful.
Another thing of interest- my older girls Clara and Genevieve, having met some young ones in the communal kitchen, went off to the bar called the Moose. They were back by 1.30 am!
Incidentally when we met the skipper of the boar on the Milford Sound he told us that he had a gig at the Moose-small world isnt it?
They were told by the locals that Te Anau is prounounced "T nau" -the lazy way of dropping a letter here and there-reminds me of OZ
to be continued T nau to Milford Sound
Te Anau is a good spot for variety of activities such as horse riding (Westray Horse Treks and High Ride horse Treks around $80 NZ per rider). All major activity agencies are in town.
There is a good range of eating places all around the main street, including one called Sandfly cafe!
Keplers restaurant,mentioned on this site before, does not take bookings and was full on both nights when we walked past around 7.30pm. If you ask about restaurants at the local 4square supermarket(part of a chain) you might get a card entitling you to a free drink-sounds great if you get a table.
The first night we had dinner at Naturally Fjordland -good pasta and pizza dishes about $9-$12 NZ for small pizza. Excellent garlic bread on a pizza base and an ok house chardonnay.
The second night we bought some supplies for the girls and sent them off to the backpackers' communal kitchen to cook for themselves and meet with other young travellers. The two of us dined at la Dolce Vita -lovely breads and dipping oil and dips ($9 NZ) and an ok venison ($33 NZ)
One thing I will remember Te Anau for is the many rowan trees. I have not seen them since my childhood in my country of origin(Poland). I remember pulling the red berries from the tree and using them as earrings.- I did that again at my -aahem-more mature age- and felt wonderful.
Another thing of interest- my older girls Clara and Genevieve, having met some young ones in the communal kitchen, went off to the bar called the Moose. They were back by 1.30 am!
Incidentally when we met the skipper of the boar on the Milford Sound he told us that he had a gig at the Moose-small world isnt it?
They were told by the locals that Te Anau is prounounced "T nau" -the lazy way of dropping a letter here and there-reminds me of OZ
to be continued T nau to Milford Sound
Feb 24th, 2007, 01:57 AM
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I'm loving the detailed report and can't wait to learn how and why you unexpectedly returned to Wanaka! Also I'm impressed that your daughters (even though the oldest is 21) are able and presumably happy to cook for themselves on a family trip. Well done!
Feb 24th, 2007, 11:10 AM
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MelnQ8: I think you and I discussed the Cardronna road. We took it from Wanaka to QT. Before you get to the summit, you pass by many cow, deer and at least one elk farm. Wonderful view from the summit.
angelnot1: This is a wonderful report. Can't wait for the fjords.
The Moose is a great restaurant with a pub feel to it. A boistrous bar, good pub grub, and off in a back room, a few slot machines.
angelnot1: This is a wonderful report. Can't wait for the fjords.
The Moose is a great restaurant with a pub feel to it. A boistrous bar, good pub grub, and off in a back room, a few slot machines.
Feb 24th, 2007, 02:48 PM
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TE ANAU to MILFORD SOUND
The actual drive time is about 1.40 hours in good conditions. There are several hairpin bends after the tunnel.
At the tunnel there are trafic lights, as it is a one lane tunnel. Inside is dark and "spooky" with occasional water dripping on to the car. The road surface is a bit uneven but nothing major. It takes about 2 minutes to drive through.
IMPORTANT - you need to turn the headlights on before you enter the tunnel but remember to turn them off after exiting. We forgot!!! - more about that later..
We had a leisurely drive to Milford Sound as our scenic cruise was not until 3pm.
I purposely booked us on the last cruise at 3pm (real journeys on Milford Monarch) because the first cruise at 9 am and the last one at 3 pm are less crowded.
The 3 pm cruise is not available all year so you might want to check the company's site for details. The cruiser carries up to 400 passengers and there were twenty on the 3 pm cruise.
The road to Milford Sound is out of this world. The sheer cliffs surround you and waterfalls cascade down and then you drive among the beech forest and along a lake and back into the mountains.
The beech trees are not the trees you find in the northern hemisphere. You can find description of the beech trees when you stop at MIRROR LAKES.
These small lakes are aptly named as the mountain range behind them is clearly and beautifully reflected in their waters.
There is a nice and level boardwalk around the lakes, under a canopy of beech trees, with two or three viewing platforms. There are boards posted around the boardwalk describing the flora and fauna of the area.
There are a number of spots to stop and take in the beauty around you.
There is a spectacular waterfall at Falls Creek on your left just before a one lane bridge. It is obscured by trees so it is easy to pass by but mark the spot and either stop on the other side of the road where there is large parking area, or remember the spot and pull up on your way back which is what we did.
We all had a drink from the waterfall it was like nectar and most refreshing.
Near the waterfall there was a large slab of ice and snow. We we told we were lucky with the weather, which was sunny throughout. Apparently a couple of weeks before our trip there was a dumping of snow which meant there was more snow than usual capping the mountains.
At the parking area there is a resident kea bird which seems to delight posing for photographs sitting atop one of the signs.
There are many other picturesque stops such as the Chasm along the way.
When we reached the Milford Sound my first impression was that it was like a busy transport interchange. Massive carpark, planes and helicopters taking off every few minutes, people bustling around and the sandflies surrounding one in droves! And this was the less busy part of the day..
Very quickly however I realised that there was a good system in place to move things along. There is a shuttle to take you to the marina where the boats are berthed or you can walk about 500 or so metres.
At the car park there is a cafe and there are picnic tables on the grass outside. We had brought our baguettes, ham,cheeses, tomatoes etc and drinks so sat at the table for our al fresco lunch.
It was great execept for the sandflies.I will repeat my comment in the initial section of this report - make sure you apply the appropriate reppellent before you get to Milford and then reapply it on arrival.
The pesky things seemed to disappear once we go under way...
Milford Sound to be continued
The actual drive time is about 1.40 hours in good conditions. There are several hairpin bends after the tunnel.
At the tunnel there are trafic lights, as it is a one lane tunnel. Inside is dark and "spooky" with occasional water dripping on to the car. The road surface is a bit uneven but nothing major. It takes about 2 minutes to drive through.
IMPORTANT - you need to turn the headlights on before you enter the tunnel but remember to turn them off after exiting. We forgot!!! - more about that later..
We had a leisurely drive to Milford Sound as our scenic cruise was not until 3pm.
I purposely booked us on the last cruise at 3pm (real journeys on Milford Monarch) because the first cruise at 9 am and the last one at 3 pm are less crowded.
The 3 pm cruise is not available all year so you might want to check the company's site for details. The cruiser carries up to 400 passengers and there were twenty on the 3 pm cruise.
The road to Milford Sound is out of this world. The sheer cliffs surround you and waterfalls cascade down and then you drive among the beech forest and along a lake and back into the mountains.
The beech trees are not the trees you find in the northern hemisphere. You can find description of the beech trees when you stop at MIRROR LAKES.
These small lakes are aptly named as the mountain range behind them is clearly and beautifully reflected in their waters.
There is a nice and level boardwalk around the lakes, under a canopy of beech trees, with two or three viewing platforms. There are boards posted around the boardwalk describing the flora and fauna of the area.
There are a number of spots to stop and take in the beauty around you.
There is a spectacular waterfall at Falls Creek on your left just before a one lane bridge. It is obscured by trees so it is easy to pass by but mark the spot and either stop on the other side of the road where there is large parking area, or remember the spot and pull up on your way back which is what we did.
We all had a drink from the waterfall it was like nectar and most refreshing.
Near the waterfall there was a large slab of ice and snow. We we told we were lucky with the weather, which was sunny throughout. Apparently a couple of weeks before our trip there was a dumping of snow which meant there was more snow than usual capping the mountains.
At the parking area there is a resident kea bird which seems to delight posing for photographs sitting atop one of the signs.
There are many other picturesque stops such as the Chasm along the way.
When we reached the Milford Sound my first impression was that it was like a busy transport interchange. Massive carpark, planes and helicopters taking off every few minutes, people bustling around and the sandflies surrounding one in droves! And this was the less busy part of the day..
Very quickly however I realised that there was a good system in place to move things along. There is a shuttle to take you to the marina where the boats are berthed or you can walk about 500 or so metres.
At the car park there is a cafe and there are picnic tables on the grass outside. We had brought our baguettes, ham,cheeses, tomatoes etc and drinks so sat at the table for our al fresco lunch.
It was great execept for the sandflies.I will repeat my comment in the initial section of this report - make sure you apply the appropriate reppellent before you get to Milford and then reapply it on arrival.
The pesky things seemed to disappear once we go under way...
Milford Sound to be continued
Feb 24th, 2007, 05:20 PM
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MILFORD SOUND SCENIC CRUISE
We walked to the terminal and waited for some 200 people to disembark and then about 20 of us boarded for the final cruise of the day. We obviously had total freedom of the boat.
The girls stayed up top most of the time braving the winds which are inevitable in such a long "tunnel". We alternated between the middle covered deck with panoramic windows extending into the ceiling so you could look up at the towering cliffs and the side and top of the boat.
The grand vistas in front, to the sides and behind us were magnificent.
The boat pulled quite close to one of the many waterfalls and we caught some of the spray.
Then there was the excitement of seeing beautiful seals resting on the rocks and later some more frolicking in the water.
The skipper announced that we would make our way to the very mouth of the Sound where it meets the Tasman sea before turning back for our return journey. It was such a thrilling contrast- emerging from the walled tunnel of the sound to the open sea beyond.
Throughout we were snapping photos like crazy and taking breaks with a cup of well brewed coffee or tea (available on the middle deck,self service, free of charge)
Through a friendly crew member we were allowed to go on the bridge and see the skipper do his work. We were amazed that the steering is done by gently tapping the smallest of joysticks - I imagined a big, round wheel. The girls were thrilled to be allowed to sit in the skipper's chair.
He told us that the snow comes to about half way down the mountains (where you see some bushes growing). Also that there are 85 staff at Milford Sound who live in the staff quarters behind the airfield. It is a particular type of lifestyle and during time off people go to Te Anau.
So overall the scenic cruise was all about stunning scenery, cheerful crew and good coffee.
As we were returning we had to wait to allow the overnight boats go out - that will be something to look forward to the next time. Also on this occasion we did not walk Milford track, which I had hiked so many years ago, - another one for the next time.
Full of impressions we walked back to the almost empty car park.
We could not start our car because we forgot to turn the headlights off after the tunnel and the battery was dead as dodo.!
We turned to three young men standing around their car, parked next to ours, and asked them if they had jumper leads. Well yes they did, but they were inside their car together with the car key they had locked inside. A swashbuckling New Zealander appeared who was going to help them break into their car. I decided to check if there were any other potential'helpers' around and spotted a woman in a station wagon. She was German, travelling alone and yes she could help out with jumper leads to start our car.
So at this point there were five cars huddled together, ours', the three Israeli boys', the German woman's and the New Zealander's.
I thought to myself " it can't get any more United Nations here". WRONG!! A young couple approached and asked if we had any jumper leads because they forgot to turn the headlights off etc etc etc. They were Dutch, increasing our merry international gathering.
And so ended our Milford Sound adventure...
Next Queenstown
We walked to the terminal and waited for some 200 people to disembark and then about 20 of us boarded for the final cruise of the day. We obviously had total freedom of the boat.
The girls stayed up top most of the time braving the winds which are inevitable in such a long "tunnel". We alternated between the middle covered deck with panoramic windows extending into the ceiling so you could look up at the towering cliffs and the side and top of the boat.
The grand vistas in front, to the sides and behind us were magnificent.
The boat pulled quite close to one of the many waterfalls and we caught some of the spray.
Then there was the excitement of seeing beautiful seals resting on the rocks and later some more frolicking in the water.
The skipper announced that we would make our way to the very mouth of the Sound where it meets the Tasman sea before turning back for our return journey. It was such a thrilling contrast- emerging from the walled tunnel of the sound to the open sea beyond.
Throughout we were snapping photos like crazy and taking breaks with a cup of well brewed coffee or tea (available on the middle deck,self service, free of charge)
Through a friendly crew member we were allowed to go on the bridge and see the skipper do his work. We were amazed that the steering is done by gently tapping the smallest of joysticks - I imagined a big, round wheel. The girls were thrilled to be allowed to sit in the skipper's chair.
He told us that the snow comes to about half way down the mountains (where you see some bushes growing). Also that there are 85 staff at Milford Sound who live in the staff quarters behind the airfield. It is a particular type of lifestyle and during time off people go to Te Anau.
So overall the scenic cruise was all about stunning scenery, cheerful crew and good coffee.
As we were returning we had to wait to allow the overnight boats go out - that will be something to look forward to the next time. Also on this occasion we did not walk Milford track, which I had hiked so many years ago, - another one for the next time.
Full of impressions we walked back to the almost empty car park.
We could not start our car because we forgot to turn the headlights off after the tunnel and the battery was dead as dodo.!
We turned to three young men standing around their car, parked next to ours, and asked them if they had jumper leads. Well yes they did, but they were inside their car together with the car key they had locked inside. A swashbuckling New Zealander appeared who was going to help them break into their car. I decided to check if there were any other potential'helpers' around and spotted a woman in a station wagon. She was German, travelling alone and yes she could help out with jumper leads to start our car.
So at this point there were five cars huddled together, ours', the three Israeli boys', the German woman's and the New Zealander's.
I thought to myself " it can't get any more United Nations here". WRONG!! A young couple approached and asked if we had any jumper leads because they forgot to turn the headlights off etc etc etc. They were Dutch, increasing our merry international gathering.
And so ended our Milford Sound adventure...
Next Queenstown
Feb 25th, 2007, 02:25 AM
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I am really enjoying your excellent report. I have the report open in one window and my itinerary open in another. I switch backwards and forwards, updating my itinerary with what I am learning from your report. You have a knack for telling me exactly what I need to know. Many thanks
I was planning to drive straight to Milford from Te Anau and take the 9:00am cruise followed by a leisurely trip back with many stops for pictures. Now I am considering doing it the other way around and taking the 3:00pm cruise. I need to find out what the lighting is like at the different times of day and, optimally, where the sun should be.
I was planning to drive straight to Milford from Te Anau and take the 9:00am cruise followed by a leisurely trip back with many stops for pictures. Now I am considering doing it the other way around and taking the 3:00pm cruise. I need to find out what the lighting is like at the different times of day and, optimally, where the sun should be.
