Dusty old towns, dusty old bars and dusty old men
Jul 21st, 2009, 02:40 PM
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Dusty old towns, dusty old bars and dusty old men
We, 2 women over 50, will be in Australia Nov 13 - 23. We plan to rent a car and see as much as we can in that amount of time. We have no interest in big cities or museums or the GBR. We want to see dusty old towns, dusty old bars and dusty old men. You know the out back or as near to that as we can get driving out of Sydney in that short amount of time with no additional flights. We just want to meander around and try and get a nice taste of Australia. A little red dust, a little beach and a little green too. Some one please give me a good rout to drive.
Jul 21st, 2009, 03:30 PM
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Sorry cerros, I am too far away.
What about something like:- Sydney, Bega, Jindabine, (coastal not dusty so far)Wagga Wagga, West Wylong, Condoblin, Cobar, Bourke, Wlagett, Dubbo, Bathurst, Sydney.
I have just listed some of the major places to get you going in the right direction, provide a range of landscapes and sightseeing opportunities.
What about something like:- Sydney, Bega, Jindabine, (coastal not dusty so far)Wagga Wagga, West Wylong, Condoblin, Cobar, Bourke, Wlagett, Dubbo, Bathurst, Sydney.
I have just listed some of the major places to get you going in the right direction, provide a range of landscapes and sightseeing opportunities.
Jul 21st, 2009, 04:19 PM
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Well, my sister-in-law's father is a dusty old farmer, hails from Canowindra (pronounced Ka-noun-dra), about 300km west of Sydney. Easy drive, sister-in-law does it regularly from Sydney, just google Canowindra for map. Canowindra's becoming a bit gentrified of late, (wineries, etc) so dusty old bars might be a bit further afield.
Jul 21st, 2009, 06:36 PM
#4
That's easy: Head out to Lightning Ridge.
Bit far west for a beach, but there's plenty of dusty roads, and the dusty old men would be happy to see a couple of good looking sheilas in the dusty old bars. If it's a good season, you'll see plenty of green. Plenty of interesting stuff along the way too.
www.lightningridgeinfo.com.au
Not sure if this link will work, but if not just google "Driving Directions - Sydney International Airport to Lightning Ridge".
http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=d&s...18&ie=UTF8&z=6
Bit far west for a beach, but there's plenty of dusty roads, and the dusty old men would be happy to see a couple of good looking sheilas in the dusty old bars. If it's a good season, you'll see plenty of green. Plenty of interesting stuff along the way too.
www.lightningridgeinfo.com.au
Not sure if this link will work, but if not just google "Driving Directions - Sydney International Airport to Lightning Ridge".
http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=d&s...18&ie=UTF8&z=6
Jul 21st, 2009, 06:46 PM
#5
The Lightning Ridge link I gave uses the Castlereagh Highway as that's the fastest (about 9 hours, I think).
You could also go via the Oxley Highway and take in the Hunter Valley, or the Mitchell Highway and go through the Blue Mountains, Orange, Dubbo, where there is an excellent Open Range Zoo.
There are lots of interesting places for an overnight stop, and I think you'd enjoy it and see a lot that most tourists don't.
Lightning Ridge is one of our major opal mining areas.
You could also go via the Oxley Highway and take in the Hunter Valley, or the Mitchell Highway and go through the Blue Mountains, Orange, Dubbo, where there is an excellent Open Range Zoo.
There are lots of interesting places for an overnight stop, and I think you'd enjoy it and see a lot that most tourists don't.
Lightning Ridge is one of our major opal mining areas.
Jul 21st, 2009, 07:29 PM
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Well your travels to near outback is going to be limited by just how far you want to travel and the mix of some beach with it.
Salty gives a reasonable sort of loop for you but for real outback you need to go further and having lived in Broken Hill a bit some many years ago and doing some back coutry driving between Queensland and Victoria fairly often, I'd suggest as another option that you head initially north of Sydney on the Newcastle motorway once you're out of the city.
Once over the Hawkesbury take turn-off for Gosford/Woy Woy and there's national parks and beaches along the old Pacific Hwy. more coastal road and plenty of accommodation options.
There's also plenty of great beaches at Sydney itself and do not forget about jetlag, maybe best to have at least one day in Sydney, book accommodation at Manly, a train from airport to Circular Quay and a ferry across Sydney Harbour and you're there.
It may be that you can arrange to get your hire car from there and be able to head out north of Sydney without heading back into CBD and then having to contend with more traffic.
www.drivenow.com.au is one of many sites you can check re hire vehicles.
Anyway, from Pacific Hwy. at Newcastle you head inland on New England Highway as far as Singleton and on to Golden Highway or continue on a bit as far as a place called Scone [ Australian Thoroughbred Horse Capital region] and you can head across to a place called Merriwa on the Golden Highway and take that as far as Dundedoo.
[ About ten km. short of Dunedoo there's a turn off to a small town called Coolah, with a pub called the Black Stump Hotel - kind of old pub, old dusty guys territory - we've a saying in Oz 'out beyone the black stump', so if that works out to about a days drive from coast for you, could be a stop option] [ one thing you'll not need to bother with is making bookings ahead for just about all towns, larger and smaller will have pubs with rooms, often as cheap as $20/n, nothing flash but comfortable enough] and that's where you'll find those dusty sociable farmers and the like - tell them you're scouting for 'older farmer wants a wife' for an ice breaker!
Anyways, back on the road again and either back to Dunedoo and turn north for Merrygen, Mendooran and Gilgandra or from Coolah you can head north for about 40 km. and you come to an intersection and a left turn will take you to a town called Coonabarabran which has the Warrumbungle National Park near by and a couple of observatories and you could head from the NP area across to a place called Gulargambone and left again, back south on Castlereagh highway to Gilgandra and thence across on Oxley highway again to Warren and a little place on the Mitchell Highway called Nevertire.
It's only about 60 km. up the road to a place called Nyngan and then a ~ 600 km. stretch on the Barrier Highway to Broken Hill, through Cobar and Wilcannia.
It'd be good to base yourself at least a couple of days in Broken Hill, there being places like Silverton and Menindee which has one of Australia's earlier country hotels, The Maidens at which explorers Burke and Wills stayed at - the kind of place not even too tall a person has to stoop to get through the doorway - had a memorable Sunday lunch there many years ago, too long to describe for now.
http://www.centraldarling.nsw.gov.au...able/1668.html
If you have heard of the movie 'Priscilla, Queen of the Desert' you might even be able to sleep in Priscillas room, and as you can see, Broken Hill does not have a shortage of hotels and former hotels befitting of that dry dustier teritory - http://www.gdaypubs.com.au/NSW/broken+hill.html
As you can see, Marios Palace of Priscilla fame is listed as former but the old girl is being brought back to life - http://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/...15/2598682.htm
The former Mootwingee, now Mutawintji NP is also worth taking a days trip, possibly a tour if available as there's a lot of red dirt road that is usually not included in hire vehicles terms.
http://bluegumpictures.com.au/collec...ricsite013.php
From Broken Hill, and depending on time, how you're travelling you would have a number of options:
1. Take Silver city Highway to Wentworth, stay north of Murray river heading on Sturt Highway for Robinvale, cross Murray and take Murray Valley Highway [closely follows river] as far as Kerang, back across the river and up to Deniliquin and along Riverina Highway through Finley and Berrigan to Corowa, back across river to Rutherglen [some nice old pubs there too, along with plenty of wineries]
Alternate, better route would be from Berrigan, turn off Riverina Hwy., heading south to Mulwala and Yarrawonga on the Murray Valley Highway again, turning east for Rutherglen.
From Rutherglen, head SE to Chiltern and on to Beechworth, Beechworth itself making an ideal overnight stop if it fits distance to be covered, Tanswell Hotel being heritage listed -http://www.heritage.vic.gov.au/admin/file/content2/c7/Tanswells.pdf
From Beechworth, it'd be heading a bit NE again for Kiewa and again the Murray Valley Highway and Alpine Way that will take you around to Cooma and a couple of options for heading either more directly to Sydney or down to the coast and following coast up to Sydney.
Ideally, a full two weeks would be more ideal, but something like described is doable if you plan out your distances and driving times, www.travelmate.com.au being a typoe of site that'll help.
If you found by Rutherglen/Beechworth you're running out of days, it's a drive of about 650 km. up the Hume Freeway/Highway to Sydney, doable in seven hours.
Option 2. Drive on down to Adelaide either via Siklver City Highway to Mildura and then Renmark and South Australian farming/wine regions or more directly along the Barrier Highway and you can still turn off for wine country towns, and either fly back or take the India Pacific trans continental train.
Option 3:
Leave car in Broken Hill [possibly a cost attached] and fly/train back from there.
I'd do Option 1.
By Night two or three aim for Coolah or Gilgandra
+1 or 2 to Broken Hill
+2 more in BH
Then you have 3 or 4 to get back to Sydney.
You'll find all our secondary roads very devoid of traffic, excepting the occasional haulage trucks, and you need to be particularly aware at intersections, but they are usually in reasonable condition and it's a breeze with bugger all traffic, and in being closer to longest days time of year and having daylight saving, you'll have daylight until at least 8 pm.
After that with dusk coming on, pay to not be driving too much as wildlife can make a mess of a car if you hit something.
So you'd probably be well able to do a couple of long days driving to and from Broken Hill, achieving easily enough 700km. + and that would give you plenty of time for covering shorter distances per day and having a look about in initial and end stretches.
Should be fun and do not be surprised if in some town pubs, some old geezers say "and what are you gals doing out here?", and "yer're not hunting for a fella are yer now?"
Salty gives a reasonable sort of loop for you but for real outback you need to go further and having lived in Broken Hill a bit some many years ago and doing some back coutry driving between Queensland and Victoria fairly often, I'd suggest as another option that you head initially north of Sydney on the Newcastle motorway once you're out of the city.
Once over the Hawkesbury take turn-off for Gosford/Woy Woy and there's national parks and beaches along the old Pacific Hwy. more coastal road and plenty of accommodation options.
There's also plenty of great beaches at Sydney itself and do not forget about jetlag, maybe best to have at least one day in Sydney, book accommodation at Manly, a train from airport to Circular Quay and a ferry across Sydney Harbour and you're there.
It may be that you can arrange to get your hire car from there and be able to head out north of Sydney without heading back into CBD and then having to contend with more traffic.
www.drivenow.com.au is one of many sites you can check re hire vehicles.
Anyway, from Pacific Hwy. at Newcastle you head inland on New England Highway as far as Singleton and on to Golden Highway or continue on a bit as far as a place called Scone [ Australian Thoroughbred Horse Capital region] and you can head across to a place called Merriwa on the Golden Highway and take that as far as Dundedoo.
[ About ten km. short of Dunedoo there's a turn off to a small town called Coolah, with a pub called the Black Stump Hotel - kind of old pub, old dusty guys territory - we've a saying in Oz 'out beyone the black stump', so if that works out to about a days drive from coast for you, could be a stop option] [ one thing you'll not need to bother with is making bookings ahead for just about all towns, larger and smaller will have pubs with rooms, often as cheap as $20/n, nothing flash but comfortable enough] and that's where you'll find those dusty sociable farmers and the like - tell them you're scouting for 'older farmer wants a wife' for an ice breaker!
Anyways, back on the road again and either back to Dunedoo and turn north for Merrygen, Mendooran and Gilgandra or from Coolah you can head north for about 40 km. and you come to an intersection and a left turn will take you to a town called Coonabarabran which has the Warrumbungle National Park near by and a couple of observatories and you could head from the NP area across to a place called Gulargambone and left again, back south on Castlereagh highway to Gilgandra and thence across on Oxley highway again to Warren and a little place on the Mitchell Highway called Nevertire.
It's only about 60 km. up the road to a place called Nyngan and then a ~ 600 km. stretch on the Barrier Highway to Broken Hill, through Cobar and Wilcannia.
It'd be good to base yourself at least a couple of days in Broken Hill, there being places like Silverton and Menindee which has one of Australia's earlier country hotels, The Maidens at which explorers Burke and Wills stayed at - the kind of place not even too tall a person has to stoop to get through the doorway - had a memorable Sunday lunch there many years ago, too long to describe for now.
http://www.centraldarling.nsw.gov.au...able/1668.html
If you have heard of the movie 'Priscilla, Queen of the Desert' you might even be able to sleep in Priscillas room, and as you can see, Broken Hill does not have a shortage of hotels and former hotels befitting of that dry dustier teritory - http://www.gdaypubs.com.au/NSW/broken+hill.html
As you can see, Marios Palace of Priscilla fame is listed as former but the old girl is being brought back to life - http://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/...15/2598682.htm
The former Mootwingee, now Mutawintji NP is also worth taking a days trip, possibly a tour if available as there's a lot of red dirt road that is usually not included in hire vehicles terms.
http://bluegumpictures.com.au/collec...ricsite013.php
From Broken Hill, and depending on time, how you're travelling you would have a number of options:
1. Take Silver city Highway to Wentworth, stay north of Murray river heading on Sturt Highway for Robinvale, cross Murray and take Murray Valley Highway [closely follows river] as far as Kerang, back across the river and up to Deniliquin and along Riverina Highway through Finley and Berrigan to Corowa, back across river to Rutherglen [some nice old pubs there too, along with plenty of wineries]
Alternate, better route would be from Berrigan, turn off Riverina Hwy., heading south to Mulwala and Yarrawonga on the Murray Valley Highway again, turning east for Rutherglen.
From Rutherglen, head SE to Chiltern and on to Beechworth, Beechworth itself making an ideal overnight stop if it fits distance to be covered, Tanswell Hotel being heritage listed -http://www.heritage.vic.gov.au/admin/file/content2/c7/Tanswells.pdf
From Beechworth, it'd be heading a bit NE again for Kiewa and again the Murray Valley Highway and Alpine Way that will take you around to Cooma and a couple of options for heading either more directly to Sydney or down to the coast and following coast up to Sydney.
Ideally, a full two weeks would be more ideal, but something like described is doable if you plan out your distances and driving times, www.travelmate.com.au being a typoe of site that'll help.
If you found by Rutherglen/Beechworth you're running out of days, it's a drive of about 650 km. up the Hume Freeway/Highway to Sydney, doable in seven hours.
Option 2. Drive on down to Adelaide either via Siklver City Highway to Mildura and then Renmark and South Australian farming/wine regions or more directly along the Barrier Highway and you can still turn off for wine country towns, and either fly back or take the India Pacific trans continental train.
Option 3:
Leave car in Broken Hill [possibly a cost attached] and fly/train back from there.
I'd do Option 1.
By Night two or three aim for Coolah or Gilgandra
+1 or 2 to Broken Hill
+2 more in BH
Then you have 3 or 4 to get back to Sydney.
You'll find all our secondary roads very devoid of traffic, excepting the occasional haulage trucks, and you need to be particularly aware at intersections, but they are usually in reasonable condition and it's a breeze with bugger all traffic, and in being closer to longest days time of year and having daylight saving, you'll have daylight until at least 8 pm.
After that with dusk coming on, pay to not be driving too much as wildlife can make a mess of a car if you hit something.
So you'd probably be well able to do a couple of long days driving to and from Broken Hill, achieving easily enough 700km. + and that would give you plenty of time for covering shorter distances per day and having a look about in initial and end stretches.
Should be fun and do not be surprised if in some town pubs, some old geezers say "and what are you gals doing out here?", and "yer're not hunting for a fella are yer now?"
Jul 21st, 2009, 10:49 PM
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I was typing while Bokhara posted and Lightning Ridge is certainly another possibility, much of a muchness as to how far or close outback you'd be getting and LR would certainly be more the basic kind of place whereas BH is a far bigger town, actually a small city but more like a Dodge City may have been.
With LR you could head back via cutting across to northern NSW coast and come back down the coast for plenty of beach spots, more beach, less outback that way.
Regardless of whether you head LR way or to BH, bear in mind that by mid November it'll be getting a tad warm and flys will want to be your friend as well as the dust - pop into an Australian Geographic store in Sydney and you can pick up a good collapsible type broad brim hat, great for hanging a fly mesh off and you might even be able to get one of those there or keep your eues peeled for a camping/disposals type store - http://www.streetsofsydney.com.au/sy...sal-stores.htm
and http://www.australiangeographic.com.au/
and the Stump - http://www.gdaypubs.com.au/NSW/coolah.html
And get yourself some Bushmans or Aeroguard Tropical strength repellant, it might help a bit with the flies.
With LR you could head back via cutting across to northern NSW coast and come back down the coast for plenty of beach spots, more beach, less outback that way.
Regardless of whether you head LR way or to BH, bear in mind that by mid November it'll be getting a tad warm and flys will want to be your friend as well as the dust - pop into an Australian Geographic store in Sydney and you can pick up a good collapsible type broad brim hat, great for hanging a fly mesh off and you might even be able to get one of those there or keep your eues peeled for a camping/disposals type store - http://www.streetsofsydney.com.au/sy...sal-stores.htm
and http://www.australiangeographic.com.au/
and the Stump - http://www.gdaypubs.com.au/NSW/coolah.html
And get yourself some Bushmans or Aeroguard Tropical strength repellant, it might help a bit with the flies.
Jul 21st, 2009, 11:06 PM
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When in Canowindra (pronounced Ka-noun-dra), chasing up Pat's distant dusty relative you could check on the dusty old fish of the area, early Devonian Period. I have not seen the museum as I was there working on the dig some time ago.
Jul 22nd, 2009, 06:10 PM
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Then there's local events such as the Adaminaby Race Day Cup on 21 November in a lovely setting in the Snowy Mountains, with plenty of horseflesh competition on and off the track. (Check out the 'What's On' sections of the websites of the regional areas you decide upon - sometimes you'll find a real gem, even if it's a dusty antique farm machinery get-together.)
Jul 22nd, 2009, 06:56 PM
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One NSW outback location I've always wanted to visit is Lake Mungo National Park. It's about 900 km from Sydney and it's certainly very dusty--the lakes are dried out--and there's a huge dune called the Great Wall of China. I'm not sure about the availability of men, but if they are there they will definately be dusty.
http://www.visitnsw.com/Mungo_National_Park_P629.aspx
http://www.visitnsw.com/Mungo_National_Park_P629.aspx
Jul 22nd, 2009, 09:13 PM
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Proper outback is west of Dubbo - I think Lightning Ridge and Broken Hill are good suggestions. There are also lots of towns between Sydney and Dubbo which are interesting - Cowra and Orange are two which I like but don't really answer to the description of dusty! But good on you in your quest for dust. If ever there was a place for it, it's here!
Lavandula
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Jul 22nd, 2009, 11:30 PM
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If you can make it to Chareleville, stay at Corones Hotel. Very grand, very Queensland, and will cost you just about nothing. I stayed there about 15 years ago. A double room will cost you about AUD 55.00. http://www.hotelcorones.com.au/
Stop for a drink at every tiny pub that you come to. People like to talk to travellers. Even small pubs have accomodation.
Bushranger suggests you go to Brokenn Hill from Nyngen, but you could head for Bourke instead. It's 200 km of dead straight road, and will take you exactly two hours to drive it (plus the time you spend in the pub at Byrock, which is half way). From Bourke, head north to Cunnamulla, Charleville and Longreach. The distances look huge, but they are not that far. In that part of the world, you can easily cover 500 km in a day - there's no traffic to speak of.
Read the short stories of Henry Lawson to get a nostalgic view of the outback.
Stop for a drink at every tiny pub that you come to. People like to talk to travellers. Even small pubs have accomodation.
Bushranger suggests you go to Brokenn Hill from Nyngen, but you could head for Bourke instead. It's 200 km of dead straight road, and will take you exactly two hours to drive it (plus the time you spend in the pub at Byrock, which is half way). From Bourke, head north to Cunnamulla, Charleville and Longreach. The distances look huge, but they are not that far. In that part of the world, you can easily cover 500 km in a day - there's no traffic to speak of.
Read the short stories of Henry Lawson to get a nostalgic view of the outback.
Jul 23rd, 2009, 12:48 AM
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That's a longreaching stretch of the imagination Peter,
like I've admitted 10 days would make getting to BH and back an effort if you want to have a bit of time to see what's about, but Charlieville is an extra 200 km. over BH and then Longreach about an additional 515 on top of that.
They might be two ambitious gals and even keeping closer to civilisation wherever in western NSW will possibly be something of a challenge based on nature of roads they may be used to but heading Charlieville way and Longreach!
If you do decide on wanting to get way out in sticks girls you may want to consider using a driver, a post on http://www.australiaforum.com/ might find you one.
like I've admitted 10 days would make getting to BH and back an effort if you want to have a bit of time to see what's about, but Charlieville is an extra 200 km. over BH and then Longreach about an additional 515 on top of that.
They might be two ambitious gals and even keeping closer to civilisation wherever in western NSW will possibly be something of a challenge based on nature of roads they may be used to but heading Charlieville way and Longreach!
If you do decide on wanting to get way out in sticks girls you may want to consider using a driver, a post on http://www.australiaforum.com/ might find you one.
Jul 23rd, 2009, 04:22 AM
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Well, if you drive as far as Longreach, you might as well continue on to Winton, a classic dusty old outback town - great pubs! Went there in 2001, driving from Rockhampton on the coast, via Emerald and Barcaldine. We stayed in the North Gregory Hotel - decor right out of the 1950's. I loved it! The general store across the street had pounds and pence price tags on some items. We drank in three of the pubs and found the locals very friendly. "Waltzing Matilda" was first performed in Winton in 1895.
Truth be told, no matter which direction you go, as long as you stay away from the coast, and the bigger highways, there is no shortage of dusty old towns (with a lot of character), dusty old bars with dusty old men....
Truth be told, no matter which direction you go, as long as you stay away from the coast, and the bigger highways, there is no shortage of dusty old towns (with a lot of character), dusty old bars with dusty old men....
Jul 23rd, 2009, 02:45 PM
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Bushie, you can cover big distances in that part of the world pretty easily - I cycled through that part of the world 15 years ago, and made it from Bourke to Cunnamulla in a single day. I don't think that both Broken Hill and Longreach would be do-able, but one or the other would. It's easy to drive 600km a day, and have time for yarning in pubs and seeing the sights.
Winton is worth a visit - the dinosaur fossil capital of Australia.
Winton is worth a visit - the dinosaur fossil capital of Australia.
Jul 24th, 2009, 04:40 PM
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Peter,
Were you in training for de Tour? and how old?
I know you can cover the kilometres quick enough at a rate either below or above the speed limits and have done a fair ammount of long distance driving myself when touring hasn't been the objective and young enough to suck it up but you don't particularly want to overdo it when wanting to make a touring holiday out of a trip.
And they're hoping I'd expect to find some skeletons with a bit of flesh about the bones so as a conversation is possible.
Were you in training for de Tour? and how old?
I know you can cover the kilometres quick enough at a rate either below or above the speed limits and have done a fair ammount of long distance driving myself when touring hasn't been the objective and young enough to suck it up but you don't particularly want to overdo it when wanting to make a touring holiday out of a trip.
And they're hoping I'd expect to find some skeletons with a bit of flesh about the bones so as a conversation is possible.
Jul 24th, 2009, 07:07 PM
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Bushie, I rode that part of the world in April of 1995, when I was a stripling of about 47. I wasn't training, I just put some camping gear on the bicycle and hit the road. I started at Shepparton, and then
Echuca
Deniliquin
Hay
Booligal
Hillston
Lake Cargellico
Parkes
Dubbo
Nyngen
Bourke
Cunnamulla
Charleville
Tambo
Barcaldine
Longreach
Winton
That was 18 days, 2430 km, with a couple of rest days in Bourke and Longreach.
There's a trip report in the making, but you know how verbose I can be, so it'll be a little while coming.
Cheers
Peter
Echuca
Deniliquin
Hay
Booligal
Hillston
Lake Cargellico
Parkes
Dubbo
Nyngen
Bourke
Cunnamulla
Charleville
Tambo
Barcaldine
Longreach
Winton
That was 18 days, 2430 km, with a couple of rest days in Bourke and Longreach.
There's a trip report in the making, but you know how verbose I can be, so it'll be a little while coming.
Cheers
Peter
Jul 25th, 2009, 12:08 AM
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" Of course, depending on the quality of the dirty old men, er... dusty old blokes they encounter it may be prudent to retain a get-the-hell-outa-here contingency "
Especially for places like Lightning Ridge farrermog where it's a bit of the wild west and no doubt many voluteers with holes already dug!
Great effort that Peter but 260 km. in one day cycling [without motor assist I assume], you'd be praying for a tail wind and still have more than a few hours in the saddle.
Especially for places like Lightning Ridge farrermog where it's a bit of the wild west and no doubt many voluteers with holes already dug!
Great effort that Peter but 260 km. in one day cycling [without motor assist I assume], you'd be praying for a tail wind and still have more than a few hours in the saddle.
