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Worth pushing for Kyûshû?

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Worth pushing for Kyûshû?

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Old Sep 13th, 2009, 02:14 PM
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Worth pushing for Kyûshû?

Hello

I'm working on where to take three friends of mine who have never been to Japan. After Tôkyô, Kyôto/Nara, and Hiroshima/Miyajima, and before getting back through the northern shores of Shikoku to either Osaka (if they can get an affordable open-jaw ticket back to Paris) or Tôkyô (if not)... do you think it's worth it to keep going South and check out Kyûshû as well before getting back?

Thank you.
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Old Sep 13th, 2009, 03:23 PM
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Yes, it certainly is. I spent a wonderful week just in southeastern Kyushu last November.

When are you going? How much time do you have? What is your current itin?
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Old Sep 13th, 2009, 06:47 PM
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I will also be going in Oct and am very interested in the south,Kyushu. What would a week of places look like if you had your choice. I like the idea of natural springs and soaks and more remote inns or towns that are not so much on the tourist trail.
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Old Sep 14th, 2009, 06:47 AM
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If you are looking for something remote, I suggest you try Kurokawa. I have pasted an article below that points you in the right direction.

Country Article / Postcards
Postcard The Most Authentic Rotemburo in Japan
Date: 07/16/2006

A typical onsen on Kyushu--most bathing aficionados will direct you to their "best" picks on the island. Ignore them all, and head south…
Sharing bath water with several nude strangers does take a little getting used to. If you've ever spent time in Japan, then you may have noticed the national obsession with bathing. No matter where you are in the country, you're never far from an onsen (a natural hot spring).

A long-time favorite among avid bathers, Kyushu is the most southwesterly of the four main islands that comprise Japan. Most aficionados will tell you that the place to go is bustling Beppu where, at every turn, there are onsen, most of which reside in affordable ryokan (inns). You can also find bubbling mud baths and even have yourself buried in hot sand on the coast. And, while Beppu is worth checking out, the ubiquitous flag-waving tour groups and long lines are enough to neutralize the relaxing effects of the baths. If it's true serenity you seek, head about two hours south to the resort town of Kurokawa.

Without so much as a convenience store inside its tiny borders, Kurokawa is a Japanese anomaly that features over two dozen amazing rotemburo (outdoor baths) in a sublime setting. Exploring the uniquely individual baths is great fun. Some of them are mixed, but most are separated by gender, and the average capacity is about a dozen people. A couple of the more unusual ones are Yamamizuki, which has its baths right on a riverbank (which you can dip in as well), and Shinmeikan, where the baths are situated in dimly lit caves. Also highly recommended for their superb atmospheres are Yamabiko and Okyakuya.

And while Kurokawa is no secret to locals and tends to fill up on holidays and weekends, it's unusual to see many foreigners, which makes it a truly unique Japanese experience. Pampering yourself at one of the swanky ryokan can set you back upward of $300 a night per person, including meals. An alternative is a hostel on the outskirts of town that charges about $35 for a bed. It's not necessary to stay at the inns to enjoy their baths; you can buy passes at the helpful Kurokawa Onsen Association, tel. + (81) 84 096 744 0819, for about $10. These are good for three sessions at the location of your choice. They also offer a handy guide in English, which contains detailed information on all 27 inns.

Josh Conley
For International Living
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Old Sep 14th, 2009, 09:53 PM
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Beppu is certainly a good stop for visiting onsen and seeing the hells. Nearby is Yufuin with many nice ryokan. Just south of Kurokawa is Mt Aso.

My first visit to Kyushu was to Fukuoka, to see the Kyushu Bassho grand sumo tournament that is held there every November. It is an excellent place to see sumo, more intimate than in Tokyo in some ways (am not knocking the sumo in Tokyo). I loved the Hakata dolls, which are a local specialty (clay, hand-painted).

On my second trip, I flew into Kagoshima and took a bus down to Ibusuki which is a resort with several onsen hotels. It is also where you can get a hot sand bath on the beach.

From Ibusuki, I took the train to Kumamoto and visited the excellent castle. Also found a public onsen in the city! There is a famous garden next to the castle but I didn't visit.

From Kumamoto I took the train via Aso to Beppu. It was a great ride, lots of beautiful green countryside. Then back to Fukuoka where I got my second Hakata doll. I also took in a Hawks baseball game with the great fortune of getting a seat smack in the right field seats with all of the chanting, cheering, balloon flying, rabid home team fans.

On my third trip to Kyushu, I flew to Nagasaki. Lots of history in that scenic city. From Fukuoka, my nephew and I went to the fugu capital of the world, Shimonoseki, just across the strait at the southern tip of Honshu.

On my fourth trip to Kyushu, last November, I flew again to Kagoshima. This time I took a bus to Kirishima Onsen. See this: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4628.html
I stayed at the Kirishima Iwasaki Hotel, above the town pictured on that webpage. There is a photo on that page showing a view from the hotel - on a clearer day you can see Sakurajima. Took a tour around the Kirishima area, visiting the nice Kirishima shrine. The rain prevented an excursion in the Ebino Kogen area. Next time I visit Kirishima I will also visit the town, which is downhill a bit from the Iwasaki hoteru.

From Kirishima I went to Miyazaki and stayed at the Sheraton Grande. Beautiful and comfortable hotel but a bit remote from the city, Sea Gaia was closed, and I'm not a golfer. Very nice, expensive, onsen bath is attached. The most memorable part of Miyazaki for me was booking accommodations for Aso at the travel agency in the JR station. The agent was delightful and we joked and laughed tho we didn't share a spoken language.

Took a day trip, south by train to the town of Obi and visited a samurai house and garden, the (sparse) remains of a castle, and a beautiful old home. These are not the wow! sights of Japan, but make for a nice day trip with the bonus of visiting a calm little town in the country. Had a very memorable stop at a noodle shop in Obi. Obi is just north of Nichinan.

On the way back from Obi, I stopped at Aoshima to visit the island and the shrine. This is definitely worth a short stop as it is a quick easy walk from the station to the island.

From Miyazaki I took the train to Nobeoka and bus up to Takachiho. This is a very scenic bus ride through the mountains. Takachiho is a special place (truly). I took a stroll through the gorge (easy) and visited the shrine. And an onsen, of course.

See, read: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e8052.html

When you walk the gorge, you should do so from north to south. You can start from the shrine or from the bridge (at the top of the green area on the map on the link above). The section between the shrine and bridge is steep (but mostly downhill if you start from the shrine).

The highlight of the trip was to see the kagura dance performance in a building next to the shrine. This was in late November when they have all-night kagura dance performances held at people's homes. I opted for the nightly performance at the shrine. The owner of the ryokan where I stayed drove four other guests and me to the show in her van. It was me and about 120 Japanese sitting on the (hard) floor watching the dance performance on a small stage. It was well done, better than the kagura performance I saw in Tokyo several days before. It was a very special experience.

From Takachiho, I took a bus to another town and wonderful train ride to Aso (also the time I spent in the town waiting for the train was memorable). Stayed at an onsen hotel but got rained out of visiting Aso. Flew from Kumamoto back to Tokyo.

Here is some info, with maps, that show Kirishima, Miyazaki, and Takachiho: http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/rtg/pdf/pg-706.pdf

I'd like to go back to Kyushu to spend time in the Shimabara area and Saga, and also actually stop and stay in Kagoshima.
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Old Sep 15th, 2009, 05:09 AM
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Thanks for the trip report, mrwunrfl, I will save it for future reference.
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Old Sep 15th, 2009, 10:05 AM
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Go to Kyushu. In April 2008, we took the night train from Tokyo to Kumamoto, spent a day poking around Kagoshima, then headed to Sakurajima Island and the sublime rotemburo at Furusato Kanko Hotel(Which was surprisingly reasonably priced), headed back up to Kumamoto, spent a night at Kurokawa onsen, and then headed towards Miyajima.

Furusato Kanko in Sakurajima is an amazing ryokan hotel. You get a rotemburo in your own room looking over the East China Sea. The food was wonderful. We can't wait to go back!
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Old Sep 24th, 2009, 12:50 AM
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Thanks everyone for the great feedback. I'll see if we can cram a trip to Kyûshû before heading back to Tôkyô.
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