Can anyone offer opinions on choosing a location to stay in Varanasi? I've read that Asi (Assi? sp?) Ghat is recommended, but I see that several Fodorites have chosen hotels in other locations.

How important is hotel location? Are all of the ghats an easy walk from one another - can you walk along the waterfront from one end to the other?

Safety is of prime importance. Photogenic-ness is next. And access to somewhere serving a good cup of coffee is a close third.

Thanks!

Well, you can walk anywhere I guess, and you should do some walking while you are there but IMO it is best to be centrally located. Assi is probably quieter if that is what you value but Rashmi Palace on the River is in the center - near Man Mandir Ghat where you can see and photograph the Aarti in the evenings. Also a great starting point for a photographic boat ride in the mornings. Not sure where you can get a good cup of coffee - I bring a portable coffee maker as good coffee seems to be unobtainable in many Indian cities. Safety is a matter of common sense as it is in any city of 1 million people. Rashmi guest house has safes in the rooms...

My reasons for recommending Assi Ghat:
1: It is a lot quieter down there
2. When you take the morning boat ride from Assi Ghat towards Main Ghat, , the sun is not in your eyes.
3. The streets are wider, less crowded, and there is more room to avoid the 'stuff" on the streets and walls.
4. When you arrive, your taxi can take you almost to the front door of the hotel.
5. There are several good places to eat and shop down there- Bread of life, Kerala Cafe, the womens cooperative come to mind.
6. You can take a 10 minute cycle rickshaw up to main ghat for less than 50 rupees. The trip is relaxing and interesting.
7.Temple on the Ganges and Palace on the Ganges are as nice or nicer than Rashmi.

The above recommendations are all valid but to be honest whichever ghat you stay at (near) will be absolutley fine. All the ghats are pretty close together so can walk between them.
No matter whicg ghat you are at, you will see all of Hindu life.

I love Varanasi!!

i appreciate the thoughtful responses, thank you! sounds like i can't really go wrong either way, but i am leaning toward assi ghat.

sun not in my eyes? those are the magic word any photographer wants to hear