Thailand diary
Dec 27th, 2005 | 09:23 AM
#1
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Thailand diary
December 2 & 3
Leave Toronto in a snowstorm. Plane has to be de-iced before we can take off. Fly Air Canada to Vancouver. Great flight, great service. We have a 1-1/2 hour layover in Vancouver before we are on our way to Tokyo. Once again, nice flight and great service. The seats are comfortable but the footrest is not as good as the previous flight. Arrive Tokyo after 10-1/2 hours. We are not too tired yet. We have a 2 hour layover in Tokyo. We make a mistake and try to get into the 1st class lounge, it was an honest mistake, both 1st and executive class are called by the same name—ANA. I’ve set my watch back 12 hours to that I can be on Bangkok time so I’m not sure if it is the 2nd or the 3rd of December. On our way to Bangkok—once again, nice flight, great service but the seats are not as comfortable as from Toronto to Vancouver. We arrive in Bangkok at 10.15 pm, it feels nice and warm! We don’t have a long wait at customs and neither do we have to wait long for our bags to come through. We are met by a Rep. from the hotel, he takes our bags and leads us to the waiting car. I had booked us into the Asia Airport Hotel—I thought it would be very close to the airport not a ½ hour drive away—We drove past it on the highway and then seemed to double back—strange. We are not too impressed with the hotel, the room is smallish but clean, but the hotel has seen better days. Iris’ doctor had suggested that we take mild sleeping pills (that he prescribed) to help us sleep on our first night—I wasn’t too keen on the idea but take one anyway—It was a good idea as both Iris & I get a solid 6 hours sleep and wake up feeling refreshed and ready for our flight to Koh Samui. It is only a 1 hour flight from Bangkok to Samui.
December 4
It is raining when we arrive in Samui. From the plane we see what I think is evidence of mud slides. We have no problem getting our bags and are soon on our way to our hotel. As we get closer to our hotel—Amari Palm Reef—some parts of the road are under a foot of water and it is still raining. Check-in at the hotel is fast and efficient, we are taken by golf cart to our room. We are impressed with our room, very spacious, large bed, nicely decorated—there are also two umbrellas in our room—I find that quite ominous. After we emptied our suitcases Iris and I decide to go for a walk—with our umbrellas. The hotel is situated on the north end of Chaweng Beach so we stroll down to the shopping area. In some places the road is OK and in others it is underwater. As we get closer to the heart of Chaweng Beach I start to feel uncomfortable—this is not what I expected—Girly bars, touts outside the tailor shops trying to get you to go inside the store—it feels seedy!!! We walk back to the hotel and just as we get to our room the heavens open up. We get changed for dinner and have a lovely Thai meal at the hotel—and so ends our 1st day in Samui.
December 5
After breakfast—great buffet spread by the way—we go for a walk along the beach towards Chaweng Beach. Perhaps it is because of all the rain but I had expected something better. Iris and I head into the commercial area and decide to walk further down than we had the day before—no improvement. As we turn back it starts to rain again so we jump into a taxi. Back in our room we go over our options. All tours have been cancelled until the weather improves but the forecast for the next 6 days is for thunderstorms every day. We decide to ask Marcus the Assistant Manager if he can suggest another Amari Hotel in a different part of Thailand—preferably where there is some sun!!! He phones around—Phuket-rain, Pattaya-rain, Trang-rain, Bangkok-no rain, Koh Chang-sunny. Well, this is a very difficult decision, after 2 seconds we ask him to book us into the Amari Emerald Cove resort in Koh Chang—we are leaving tomorrow.
December 6
Here we go again!!! Back to Bangkok to catch a plane for Koh Chang. 50 minute flight from Bangkok to Trat. Arrive in Trat—Sunshine!!! Finally. As we get off the plane we feel the sun on our shoulders—John Denver should be singing. We are met by two reps from the hotel. We drive from Trat to the ferry. ½ hour ferry ride to the island. This is the Thailand that I had envisioned—palms trees swaying in the breeze, warm winds and sunshine. Our first impression of the hotel is very favourable, we are met by the assistant manager—Tim and made to feel very special—a refreshing drink and a cold towel helps. Just as in Samui the room is more than adequate with a great view—the hills on one side, the ocean on the other and the pool in the middle.
Leave Toronto in a snowstorm. Plane has to be de-iced before we can take off. Fly Air Canada to Vancouver. Great flight, great service. We have a 1-1/2 hour layover in Vancouver before we are on our way to Tokyo. Once again, nice flight and great service. The seats are comfortable but the footrest is not as good as the previous flight. Arrive Tokyo after 10-1/2 hours. We are not too tired yet. We have a 2 hour layover in Tokyo. We make a mistake and try to get into the 1st class lounge, it was an honest mistake, both 1st and executive class are called by the same name—ANA. I’ve set my watch back 12 hours to that I can be on Bangkok time so I’m not sure if it is the 2nd or the 3rd of December. On our way to Bangkok—once again, nice flight, great service but the seats are not as comfortable as from Toronto to Vancouver. We arrive in Bangkok at 10.15 pm, it feels nice and warm! We don’t have a long wait at customs and neither do we have to wait long for our bags to come through. We are met by a Rep. from the hotel, he takes our bags and leads us to the waiting car. I had booked us into the Asia Airport Hotel—I thought it would be very close to the airport not a ½ hour drive away—We drove past it on the highway and then seemed to double back—strange. We are not too impressed with the hotel, the room is smallish but clean, but the hotel has seen better days. Iris’ doctor had suggested that we take mild sleeping pills (that he prescribed) to help us sleep on our first night—I wasn’t too keen on the idea but take one anyway—It was a good idea as both Iris & I get a solid 6 hours sleep and wake up feeling refreshed and ready for our flight to Koh Samui. It is only a 1 hour flight from Bangkok to Samui.
December 4
It is raining when we arrive in Samui. From the plane we see what I think is evidence of mud slides. We have no problem getting our bags and are soon on our way to our hotel. As we get closer to our hotel—Amari Palm Reef—some parts of the road are under a foot of water and it is still raining. Check-in at the hotel is fast and efficient, we are taken by golf cart to our room. We are impressed with our room, very spacious, large bed, nicely decorated—there are also two umbrellas in our room—I find that quite ominous. After we emptied our suitcases Iris and I decide to go for a walk—with our umbrellas. The hotel is situated on the north end of Chaweng Beach so we stroll down to the shopping area. In some places the road is OK and in others it is underwater. As we get closer to the heart of Chaweng Beach I start to feel uncomfortable—this is not what I expected—Girly bars, touts outside the tailor shops trying to get you to go inside the store—it feels seedy!!! We walk back to the hotel and just as we get to our room the heavens open up. We get changed for dinner and have a lovely Thai meal at the hotel—and so ends our 1st day in Samui.
December 5
After breakfast—great buffet spread by the way—we go for a walk along the beach towards Chaweng Beach. Perhaps it is because of all the rain but I had expected something better. Iris and I head into the commercial area and decide to walk further down than we had the day before—no improvement. As we turn back it starts to rain again so we jump into a taxi. Back in our room we go over our options. All tours have been cancelled until the weather improves but the forecast for the next 6 days is for thunderstorms every day. We decide to ask Marcus the Assistant Manager if he can suggest another Amari Hotel in a different part of Thailand—preferably where there is some sun!!! He phones around—Phuket-rain, Pattaya-rain, Trang-rain, Bangkok-no rain, Koh Chang-sunny. Well, this is a very difficult decision, after 2 seconds we ask him to book us into the Amari Emerald Cove resort in Koh Chang—we are leaving tomorrow.
December 6
Here we go again!!! Back to Bangkok to catch a plane for Koh Chang. 50 minute flight from Bangkok to Trat. Arrive in Trat—Sunshine!!! Finally. As we get off the plane we feel the sun on our shoulders—John Denver should be singing. We are met by two reps from the hotel. We drive from Trat to the ferry. ½ hour ferry ride to the island. This is the Thailand that I had envisioned—palms trees swaying in the breeze, warm winds and sunshine. Our first impression of the hotel is very favourable, we are met by the assistant manager—Tim and made to feel very special—a refreshing drink and a cold towel helps. Just as in Samui the room is more than adequate with a great view—the hills on one side, the ocean on the other and the pool in the middle.
Dec 27th, 2005 | 09:44 AM
#2
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 271
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Perhaps I should have prefaced the first posting by saying thanks to all of you Fodorites who helped me when I was doing my research prior to leaving for Thailand--rhkkmk, glorialf guenmai, shade22182, simpsonc510, BillT and all of you others. Once again thank you very much, your advice was most helpful. Now if you are sitting comfortably I will begin again.
December 7
My birthday. After I opened my card Iris gave me an envelope which contained a voucher for a 90 min. Thai massage for that afternoon. We went for breakfast and then relaxed on the beach. I had my massage in the afternoon—very relaxing and professional—I felt great after. Unbeknownst to me, before we left on our tripDec Iris had been in contact with Marcus in Samui arranging a special birthday dinner for me. It was supposed to be in a beach hut at the hotel, but of course with us moving at the last minute hasty changes had to be made. Marcus had phoned Tim and let him in on the details so Iris and Tim put their heads together to come up with something. It was quite windy that night so they could not set up anything on the beach so we were given a private room upstairs in the restaurant—Beautiful—the room was decorated magnificently. The table was strewn with rose petals, there was more than 40 small candles—I guess that they thought it would be a fire hazard to have 54!!!! There was two vases of roses intermingled with dried flowers—our photographs do not do the room justice.
Menu
Sun dried beef
Deep fried vegetable spring rools
Spicy chicken soup with lemongrass and mushrooms
Green curry with chicken—my favourite
Fried pork with sweet & sour sauce
Grilled prawns & rock lobster with garlic and pepper
Stir-fried beef with oyster sauce, mushrooms and asparagus
Stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts
Fried vegetables with oyster sauce
Steamed rice
Season tropical fresh fruits
There was only two of us and they had enough food to keep an army satisfied for a month!!! Oh yes, I forgot the birthday cake!! After all the dishes were cleared away and Iris and I were having a last glass of wine we were serenaded by the hotel musical group, called ABCD—a very romantic evening. We had a nightcap—or two—at Breezes lounge where we danced to what was previously the hotel band but will of course now be known as Rob’s group.
December 8
Our daughter Kelly’s birthday—didn’t try phoning her, just e-mailed. Iris and I decided that we were going to do nothing all day. We lay on the beach, sauntered into the ocean, lay on the beach, swam in the pool—that was it for 10 minutes and I was ready to go—I drive Iris crazy—I find it hard to relax—she gave me a look and I lay down again!!!! Later on we went for a stroll and checked out some of the local stores. There is a tailor near to the hotel that I am going to ask about. Small panic—we can’t find our plane tickets—spoke to Tim and he has turned over our problem to Thidarat the Front Office Manager. Ate at the hotel and had a nightcap at Breezes—danced some more to my Band.
December 9
After breakfast we went elephant trekking. What a wonderful experience but unfortunately the batteries in my camera ran out and of course I had not taken the spares along with me—I think we will come back another day just so we can take photographs. While speaking to the chef—Cal—he had recommended the tailor I was interested in so I went and got measured for a couple of suits and some shirts. Iris got measured for a couple of suits as well. I also had him copy a pair of linen pants that I like and also a pair of shorts.
December 10
Another lazy day. After breakfast Thidarat took us to the police station so that we could file a report about our missing tickets. The airline needs a police report before they will issue replacement tickets. Thidarat is going to hand deliver our tickets to our hotel in Bangkok. She says that she is just doing her job but I find what she is doing for us awesome. We went for a walk along the beach and on the way back stopped for an oil massage—300 baht each for 1 hour
December 11
Snorkelling today. Left the hotel at 8.45 am and did not get back until 6 pm. We were picked up from the beach at the hotel by a small boat and taken out to the main ship. The company is called Thai Fun. Our first stop for snorkelling was not too impressive, the water was quite choppy so the visibility was not the greatest. It also did not help that I kept breathing in water—talk about walking and chewing gum at the same time!! At our second stop there was no snorkelling planned but we were taken to a private island, just a beautiful spot. At our last stop the snorkelling is awesome, I have finally figured out how to breathe properly. The water is very clear and there are lots of fish and some nice coral beds. On the trip back one of the staff—Nook—keeps us entertained with some tricks. She challenges me to a game of checkers—she wins 2-1. We have had quite a tiring day so we decide to order room service and have an early night.
December 7
My birthday. After I opened my card Iris gave me an envelope which contained a voucher for a 90 min. Thai massage for that afternoon. We went for breakfast and then relaxed on the beach. I had my massage in the afternoon—very relaxing and professional—I felt great after. Unbeknownst to me, before we left on our tripDec Iris had been in contact with Marcus in Samui arranging a special birthday dinner for me. It was supposed to be in a beach hut at the hotel, but of course with us moving at the last minute hasty changes had to be made. Marcus had phoned Tim and let him in on the details so Iris and Tim put their heads together to come up with something. It was quite windy that night so they could not set up anything on the beach so we were given a private room upstairs in the restaurant—Beautiful—the room was decorated magnificently. The table was strewn with rose petals, there was more than 40 small candles—I guess that they thought it would be a fire hazard to have 54!!!! There was two vases of roses intermingled with dried flowers—our photographs do not do the room justice.
Menu
Sun dried beef
Deep fried vegetable spring rools
Spicy chicken soup with lemongrass and mushrooms
Green curry with chicken—my favourite
Fried pork with sweet & sour sauce
Grilled prawns & rock lobster with garlic and pepper
Stir-fried beef with oyster sauce, mushrooms and asparagus
Stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts
Fried vegetables with oyster sauce
Steamed rice
Season tropical fresh fruits
There was only two of us and they had enough food to keep an army satisfied for a month!!! Oh yes, I forgot the birthday cake!! After all the dishes were cleared away and Iris and I were having a last glass of wine we were serenaded by the hotel musical group, called ABCD—a very romantic evening. We had a nightcap—or two—at Breezes lounge where we danced to what was previously the hotel band but will of course now be known as Rob’s group.
December 8
Our daughter Kelly’s birthday—didn’t try phoning her, just e-mailed. Iris and I decided that we were going to do nothing all day. We lay on the beach, sauntered into the ocean, lay on the beach, swam in the pool—that was it for 10 minutes and I was ready to go—I drive Iris crazy—I find it hard to relax—she gave me a look and I lay down again!!!! Later on we went for a stroll and checked out some of the local stores. There is a tailor near to the hotel that I am going to ask about. Small panic—we can’t find our plane tickets—spoke to Tim and he has turned over our problem to Thidarat the Front Office Manager. Ate at the hotel and had a nightcap at Breezes—danced some more to my Band.
December 9
After breakfast we went elephant trekking. What a wonderful experience but unfortunately the batteries in my camera ran out and of course I had not taken the spares along with me—I think we will come back another day just so we can take photographs. While speaking to the chef—Cal—he had recommended the tailor I was interested in so I went and got measured for a couple of suits and some shirts. Iris got measured for a couple of suits as well. I also had him copy a pair of linen pants that I like and also a pair of shorts.
December 10
Another lazy day. After breakfast Thidarat took us to the police station so that we could file a report about our missing tickets. The airline needs a police report before they will issue replacement tickets. Thidarat is going to hand deliver our tickets to our hotel in Bangkok. She says that she is just doing her job but I find what she is doing for us awesome. We went for a walk along the beach and on the way back stopped for an oil massage—300 baht each for 1 hour
December 11
Snorkelling today. Left the hotel at 8.45 am and did not get back until 6 pm. We were picked up from the beach at the hotel by a small boat and taken out to the main ship. The company is called Thai Fun. Our first stop for snorkelling was not too impressive, the water was quite choppy so the visibility was not the greatest. It also did not help that I kept breathing in water—talk about walking and chewing gum at the same time!! At our second stop there was no snorkelling planned but we were taken to a private island, just a beautiful spot. At our last stop the snorkelling is awesome, I have finally figured out how to breathe properly. The water is very clear and there are lots of fish and some nice coral beds. On the trip back one of the staff—Nook—keeps us entertained with some tricks. She challenges me to a game of checkers—she wins 2-1. We have had quite a tiring day so we decide to order room service and have an early night.
Dec 27th, 2005 | 10:14 AM
#3
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Joined: Sep 2005
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December 12
Iris’ birthday. She wants to visit Cambodia. I’ve arranged for a guide and a driver for the day. We leave the hotel at 6 am, pick up our guide—name Tik—near Trat and are on our way to Cambodia. We get to the border at about 10;30 am, definitely 3rd world. We have been told that a visa to enter Cambodia would be 25 $US but somebody forgot to tell the Cambodian border guards. 2400 baht later we were allowed to enter the country. We had to change driver and car after we walked across the border. It was quite an experience crossing the border—not scary, but definitely different—like something out of the movies. As soon as we entered Cambodia we were surrounded by people, some begging, some offering services, thankfully we had our guide Tik along with us. We knew nothing about Cambodia so we told Tik and the driver that we just wanted to be driven around so we could see different things. The driver took us to a waterfall—it may have been two feet high!!! I did not laugh but I tried to explain to him about Niagara Falls, I don’t think that he believed me. We next went to a market where Iris bought some small knick knacks, stopped in a bar for a couple of drinks so I could drop into future conversations about the time I was in Cambodia having a drink. Tik then told Iris that there was a casino nearby—we both love going to Vegas—so that was our next stop. Upstairs at the casino they had roulette and card games and downstairs was the slot machines. I headed for the baccarat tables and when I sat down I said “My name is McIvor, Rob McIvor!!” They didn’t have a clue what I was on about, my gay repartee was wasted on them and I’m more Scottish than Sean Connery. Anyway I won 500 baht which I immediately lost along with another 1000 baht when I moved to the roulette table. Next it was downstairs to the slots where I won 8000 baht and unlike when I am in Vegas I stopped while I was ahead!! We got back to the hotel about 6.30 pm and changed for dinner. I had arranged for a table to be set up on the beach for the two of us. Once again the hotel staff outdid themselves—thankfully it was not windy so they had set up lanterns around the table—just lovely. We had steak for dinner and when they brought out the birthday cake most of the staff were there to sing Happy Birthday to Iris. My band came and serenaded Iris—I had agreed to lend them to her for the evening—We then went to Breezes for several nightcaps and danced the night away to our band. Great day!!!
December 13
After breakfast we went for another fitting at the tailor. We went to Bang Bao fishing village just to stroll around. It was very interesting. We had a couple of soft drinks in a small tea house over the water—very nice. We just relaxed that afternoon by the pool. At night we went to White Sand Beach but I think it is for more of a younger crowd, Iris and I were not too impressed—I guess that I am just an old fogie!!! Went back to the hotel to dance at Breezes.
Iris’ birthday. She wants to visit Cambodia. I’ve arranged for a guide and a driver for the day. We leave the hotel at 6 am, pick up our guide—name Tik—near Trat and are on our way to Cambodia. We get to the border at about 10;30 am, definitely 3rd world. We have been told that a visa to enter Cambodia would be 25 $US but somebody forgot to tell the Cambodian border guards. 2400 baht later we were allowed to enter the country. We had to change driver and car after we walked across the border. It was quite an experience crossing the border—not scary, but definitely different—like something out of the movies. As soon as we entered Cambodia we were surrounded by people, some begging, some offering services, thankfully we had our guide Tik along with us. We knew nothing about Cambodia so we told Tik and the driver that we just wanted to be driven around so we could see different things. The driver took us to a waterfall—it may have been two feet high!!! I did not laugh but I tried to explain to him about Niagara Falls, I don’t think that he believed me. We next went to a market where Iris bought some small knick knacks, stopped in a bar for a couple of drinks so I could drop into future conversations about the time I was in Cambodia having a drink. Tik then told Iris that there was a casino nearby—we both love going to Vegas—so that was our next stop. Upstairs at the casino they had roulette and card games and downstairs was the slot machines. I headed for the baccarat tables and when I sat down I said “My name is McIvor, Rob McIvor!!” They didn’t have a clue what I was on about, my gay repartee was wasted on them and I’m more Scottish than Sean Connery. Anyway I won 500 baht which I immediately lost along with another 1000 baht when I moved to the roulette table. Next it was downstairs to the slots where I won 8000 baht and unlike when I am in Vegas I stopped while I was ahead!! We got back to the hotel about 6.30 pm and changed for dinner. I had arranged for a table to be set up on the beach for the two of us. Once again the hotel staff outdid themselves—thankfully it was not windy so they had set up lanterns around the table—just lovely. We had steak for dinner and when they brought out the birthday cake most of the staff were there to sing Happy Birthday to Iris. My band came and serenaded Iris—I had agreed to lend them to her for the evening—We then went to Breezes for several nightcaps and danced the night away to our band. Great day!!!
December 13
After breakfast we went for another fitting at the tailor. We went to Bang Bao fishing village just to stroll around. It was very interesting. We had a couple of soft drinks in a small tea house over the water—very nice. We just relaxed that afternoon by the pool. At night we went to White Sand Beach but I think it is for more of a younger crowd, Iris and I were not too impressed—I guess that I am just an old fogie!!! Went back to the hotel to dance at Breezes.
Dec 27th, 2005 | 11:03 AM
#5
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 271
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December 14
Going elephant trekking again. This time I made sure we had spare batteries and also that the extra memory card was empty. Even better than the first time. I was in the stream sitting on the elephant’s back scrubbing the beast, then it got up with me still sitting on it and so I rode it back to the camp—awesome. We ate at the Cove restaurant. Said goodbye to the staff. They gave us a small present. Could not believe that—the people were so kind and helpful and it was not phony, they genuinely liked helping us—very sad to be leaving but Bangkok beckons.
December 15
Tim meets us at the lobby—I don’t think that he is making sure we are leaving—I didn’t cause all that much trouble, maybe he just wants the hotel band back!!! No really, it is very nice of him to wish us Bon Voyage. We have an uneventful trip to Bangkok. Easy off the plane and we picked up our baggage in minutes. The driver from the hotel is waiting for us so we are on our way to the Pathumwan Princess. The hotel seems nice although we have been spoiled after the Amari. The room is smaller than the Amari and not so luxurious. We decide to get our bearings and find out how the Sky Train works. We head for the Cotton House so that Iris can get some blouses made. Great fun takinig the Sky Train and then the river taxi. Treated very well at the Cotton House—after taking an hour to find it!!! Went back to the hotel and decided to wander about the MBK Centre—G/damn place is massive—Iris is in heaven, I can feel my credit cards melting. Neither of us feel like having a fancy dinner so we decide to check out what movies are playing. The EGV cinema is in Siam Centre so we walked over to check it out. Bought seats to see King Kong in the Gold Class section and then went to get something to eat at a restaurant nearby. We both wanted something simple so I had Pad thai with pork—it said mild spicy on the menu so I went with that—I really like spicy food but this was at my upper range. Any hotter would have been painful—but I loved it. Went back to EGV to see the movie. We were a little early so we sat in the lounge and were offered free tea, or coffee or soft drinks. When it was time to enter the cinema we both had quite a shock, the seats are huge, on the seats is a small bag containing a blanket, pillow and socks. The seats are leather and recline by means of a remote, they are so comfortable that I hope the movie is good or I am going to fall asleep. Oh yes, they also offer seat service—you can order food and drinks from you seat and they will deliver it to you. All this for 500 baht each—what a bargain. We got lost walking back to the hotel so we didn’t get back until 1 am.
Going elephant trekking again. This time I made sure we had spare batteries and also that the extra memory card was empty. Even better than the first time. I was in the stream sitting on the elephant’s back scrubbing the beast, then it got up with me still sitting on it and so I rode it back to the camp—awesome. We ate at the Cove restaurant. Said goodbye to the staff. They gave us a small present. Could not believe that—the people were so kind and helpful and it was not phony, they genuinely liked helping us—very sad to be leaving but Bangkok beckons.
December 15
Tim meets us at the lobby—I don’t think that he is making sure we are leaving—I didn’t cause all that much trouble, maybe he just wants the hotel band back!!! No really, it is very nice of him to wish us Bon Voyage. We have an uneventful trip to Bangkok. Easy off the plane and we picked up our baggage in minutes. The driver from the hotel is waiting for us so we are on our way to the Pathumwan Princess. The hotel seems nice although we have been spoiled after the Amari. The room is smaller than the Amari and not so luxurious. We decide to get our bearings and find out how the Sky Train works. We head for the Cotton House so that Iris can get some blouses made. Great fun takinig the Sky Train and then the river taxi. Treated very well at the Cotton House—after taking an hour to find it!!! Went back to the hotel and decided to wander about the MBK Centre—G/damn place is massive—Iris is in heaven, I can feel my credit cards melting. Neither of us feel like having a fancy dinner so we decide to check out what movies are playing. The EGV cinema is in Siam Centre so we walked over to check it out. Bought seats to see King Kong in the Gold Class section and then went to get something to eat at a restaurant nearby. We both wanted something simple so I had Pad thai with pork—it said mild spicy on the menu so I went with that—I really like spicy food but this was at my upper range. Any hotter would have been painful—but I loved it. Went back to EGV to see the movie. We were a little early so we sat in the lounge and were offered free tea, or coffee or soft drinks. When it was time to enter the cinema we both had quite a shock, the seats are huge, on the seats is a small bag containing a blanket, pillow and socks. The seats are leather and recline by means of a remote, they are so comfortable that I hope the movie is good or I am going to fall asleep. Oh yes, they also offer seat service—you can order food and drinks from you seat and they will deliver it to you. All this for 500 baht each—what a bargain. We got lost walking back to the hotel so we didn’t get back until 1 am.
Dec 27th, 2005 | 11:13 AM
#6
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Joined: Sep 2005
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December 16
Breakfast at hotel. I am not impressed. I think I have been spoiled for life by our stay at the Amari. Took the skytrain to Saphin Taksin and booked a Klong tour. Great experience we loved the long-tailed boat and getting to see different areas from the canals. Took the skytrain back to Siam Centre and then we got lost looking for Jim Thompson house so we took a Tuk-tuk—50 baht. We had lunch at Jim Thompson house and then we took the tour—very interesting. We almost got scammed as we walked down the lane from Jim Thompson House. A man asked us if we were lost, when we said no he asked us where we were from—when we said Toronto he told us that he had an uncle who owned a restaurant in Toronto at the Eaton Centre. Anyway, we chatted for about 5 minutes and then he started talking about gems and how he knew about this place close by where we could get a good deal on jewellery. It takes me a while but I get there eventually—I realized that this guy was one of the touts that we had been warned about, but he was no threat or anything, in fact he was very pleasant, so Iris and I let him drive us to the store and we went in with absolutely no intention of buying anything. It was an experience—they were very pushy and really tried to give us the hard sell but of course we had no intention of buying so we left. On the street a Tuk-tuk driver stopped and offered to take us to our hotel for 20 baht, we said OK and jumped in—after 2 minutes he stopped and said he wanted to take us to some store so that he could get a commission—I think he would get free gasoline—we said no and got out and after a 5 minute walk made it back to our hotel. We freshened up and changed for dinner. We took a taxi to Face—he got lost—it took almost an hour for him to find the restaurant but the fare was still only 110 baht—unbelievable!! We had made reservations at Face-Lanna Thai, very nice restaurant, great ambience. The manager or waiter, I’m not sure which, showed us how to fold the leaf and add the different ingredients into the cup you make—very tasty. The appetisers were very good. Iris ordered for her main meal Coconut prawn with red curry, she really liked it. I ordered minced duck but I didn’t notice that that was under the salad portion of the menu—not too my taste I’m afraid—my own fault. So I ordered the cashew nut chicken which I really enjoyed. Two items I ordered from the dessert menu were not available so I just had ice cream—my dessert came and I had finished it before they came with Iris’. I know that a lot of you Fodorites rave about Face but I’m afraid that I was not overly impressed. The food was good, and the setting was very nice but the service left a lot to be desired—maybe we just got them on a bad night. Our taxi driver know his way back to the hotel—the fare was under 100 baht.
December 17
Breakfast was better today. Iris wanted to visit the weekend market, just what I need, more shopping!!! It is very warm today so I am going to try and stay in the shade. The first place Iris stops at is a shoe store—I handle this with my usual grace and decorum—I sulk!!! Iris wants to buy silk, and there are lots of stalls/stores selling silk. I won’t go into details but I end up loaded like a pack mule while the Boss is behind me with a whip. For any of you ladies reading this I am “glowing” by this time, for you guys, I am sweating like a pig and have the attitude of one as well. Back to the hotel for a shower and a drink before we’re off again to the Cotton House so Iris can have another fitting. Later that night went to the Asia Hotel to see Calypso Cabaret—what a great show, included in the price of the ticket is one free drink each, but be warned, they are quite expensive after that. The show does not last long—just over an hour—but it is well worth going to see.
Breakfast at hotel. I am not impressed. I think I have been spoiled for life by our stay at the Amari. Took the skytrain to Saphin Taksin and booked a Klong tour. Great experience we loved the long-tailed boat and getting to see different areas from the canals. Took the skytrain back to Siam Centre and then we got lost looking for Jim Thompson house so we took a Tuk-tuk—50 baht. We had lunch at Jim Thompson house and then we took the tour—very interesting. We almost got scammed as we walked down the lane from Jim Thompson House. A man asked us if we were lost, when we said no he asked us where we were from—when we said Toronto he told us that he had an uncle who owned a restaurant in Toronto at the Eaton Centre. Anyway, we chatted for about 5 minutes and then he started talking about gems and how he knew about this place close by where we could get a good deal on jewellery. It takes me a while but I get there eventually—I realized that this guy was one of the touts that we had been warned about, but he was no threat or anything, in fact he was very pleasant, so Iris and I let him drive us to the store and we went in with absolutely no intention of buying anything. It was an experience—they were very pushy and really tried to give us the hard sell but of course we had no intention of buying so we left. On the street a Tuk-tuk driver stopped and offered to take us to our hotel for 20 baht, we said OK and jumped in—after 2 minutes he stopped and said he wanted to take us to some store so that he could get a commission—I think he would get free gasoline—we said no and got out and after a 5 minute walk made it back to our hotel. We freshened up and changed for dinner. We took a taxi to Face—he got lost—it took almost an hour for him to find the restaurant but the fare was still only 110 baht—unbelievable!! We had made reservations at Face-Lanna Thai, very nice restaurant, great ambience. The manager or waiter, I’m not sure which, showed us how to fold the leaf and add the different ingredients into the cup you make—very tasty. The appetisers were very good. Iris ordered for her main meal Coconut prawn with red curry, she really liked it. I ordered minced duck but I didn’t notice that that was under the salad portion of the menu—not too my taste I’m afraid—my own fault. So I ordered the cashew nut chicken which I really enjoyed. Two items I ordered from the dessert menu were not available so I just had ice cream—my dessert came and I had finished it before they came with Iris’. I know that a lot of you Fodorites rave about Face but I’m afraid that I was not overly impressed. The food was good, and the setting was very nice but the service left a lot to be desired—maybe we just got them on a bad night. Our taxi driver know his way back to the hotel—the fare was under 100 baht.
December 17
Breakfast was better today. Iris wanted to visit the weekend market, just what I need, more shopping!!! It is very warm today so I am going to try and stay in the shade. The first place Iris stops at is a shoe store—I handle this with my usual grace and decorum—I sulk!!! Iris wants to buy silk, and there are lots of stalls/stores selling silk. I won’t go into details but I end up loaded like a pack mule while the Boss is behind me with a whip. For any of you ladies reading this I am “glowing” by this time, for you guys, I am sweating like a pig and have the attitude of one as well. Back to the hotel for a shower and a drink before we’re off again to the Cotton House so Iris can have another fitting. Later that night went to the Asia Hotel to see Calypso Cabaret—what a great show, included in the price of the ticket is one free drink each, but be warned, they are quite expensive after that. The show does not last long—just over an hour—but it is well worth going to see.
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Dec 27th, 2005 | 11:54 AM
#8
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 271
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December 18
We had brunch at Rang Mahal—Loved it!! Best meal we have had in Bangkok. We followed advice and requested a window table and also went quite early to beat the crowds. We made reservations for 11 am which meant that we were the first two in the restaurant but by the time we left it was starting to get very busy. We went our separate ways in the afternoon so that we could do our Christmas shopping separately. We were both feeling tired so we just ordered room service and watched a movie in our room before having an early night.
December 19
I had arranged with Ratt for a driver for the day. There was a slight mix up, nothing serious, he was waiting for us at the Lobby while we were at the Ground floor. I don’t think he was Ratt’s most experienced driver but he was enthusiastic. We wanted to go see the floating market outside of Bangkok—excellent—loved the atmosphere and the hustle and bustle. I was bargaining with a store owner for a wall fan when Ratt appeared in the next boat—I was going to pay 600 baht—he had started at 1400 baht, but Ratt told him it was only worth 500 baht. Later in the day I saw the same fan in a store for 400 baht—c’est la vie!! Next we went to the River Kwai. My uncle had been held prisoner by the Japanese during the war, not at the River Kwai. I did not expect to feel so sombre. We visited the War Museum—what those poor men had to suffer through. Next, our driver suggested a visit to a handicraft store—we got to see the men and women working on different carvings and pieces of furniture. The finished products are wonderful, expensive, but the workmanship is excellent. When answering our questions, the driver kept saying “Yes Sir” to both Iris and I—I told Iris that obviously he knew who wore the pants in our family!! Our driver then said he would take us to the Tiger Temple—this sounded intriguing so off we went. On the way, he told us a little about the temple—a Buddhist monastery where the Monks care for animals and he said that we would be able to see the tigers. At the monastery we walked for a little while and then saw a sign that said Tiger Canyon—we walked down the hill a little ways and then turned a corner—in front of us, behind a split rail fence, were six tigers—not in cages, not chained up and not behind any chain link fence. WE GOT TO PET TIGERS!!!!! Not cubs, but full grown tigers with heads as big as beach balls—what a rush!!! Each person was escorted behind the fence and allowed to sit with the tigers and pet them while one of the handlers took photographs—it was one of the highlights of my life—I’ll never forget those moments. The rest of the visit to the Monastery was an anti-climax. We saw some cubs but unfortunately they were in a cage. Seemingly, if you visit in the morning while the cubs are being fed you are allowed to hold them but of course this can only happen while they are still quite young. What a great trip—long, but very enjoyable. After we got back to the hotel we freshened up and then took a taxi to the State Tower for a couple of drinks. The restaurant/bar is on the 64th floor—we sat in the open air terrace. Iris ordered a Long Island Ice Tea—I wasn’t sure what I wanted so the waitress suggested a spicy Bloody Mary—I said that sounded good so I told her that we wanted 1 Long Island Ice Tea, 1 Bloody Mary and 1 Singha Beer—I wanted a chaser for the Bloody Mary—the waitress asked me when the 3rd person was coming—I think Iris felt like jumping over the balcony—you can take the boy out of Scotland but you can’t take Scotland out of the boy!!!!! I think that this is a must visit, it may be pricey if you are on a budget but the view is phenomenal and the service is great. We had a great day today.
We had brunch at Rang Mahal—Loved it!! Best meal we have had in Bangkok. We followed advice and requested a window table and also went quite early to beat the crowds. We made reservations for 11 am which meant that we were the first two in the restaurant but by the time we left it was starting to get very busy. We went our separate ways in the afternoon so that we could do our Christmas shopping separately. We were both feeling tired so we just ordered room service and watched a movie in our room before having an early night.
December 19
I had arranged with Ratt for a driver for the day. There was a slight mix up, nothing serious, he was waiting for us at the Lobby while we were at the Ground floor. I don’t think he was Ratt’s most experienced driver but he was enthusiastic. We wanted to go see the floating market outside of Bangkok—excellent—loved the atmosphere and the hustle and bustle. I was bargaining with a store owner for a wall fan when Ratt appeared in the next boat—I was going to pay 600 baht—he had started at 1400 baht, but Ratt told him it was only worth 500 baht. Later in the day I saw the same fan in a store for 400 baht—c’est la vie!! Next we went to the River Kwai. My uncle had been held prisoner by the Japanese during the war, not at the River Kwai. I did not expect to feel so sombre. We visited the War Museum—what those poor men had to suffer through. Next, our driver suggested a visit to a handicraft store—we got to see the men and women working on different carvings and pieces of furniture. The finished products are wonderful, expensive, but the workmanship is excellent. When answering our questions, the driver kept saying “Yes Sir” to both Iris and I—I told Iris that obviously he knew who wore the pants in our family!! Our driver then said he would take us to the Tiger Temple—this sounded intriguing so off we went. On the way, he told us a little about the temple—a Buddhist monastery where the Monks care for animals and he said that we would be able to see the tigers. At the monastery we walked for a little while and then saw a sign that said Tiger Canyon—we walked down the hill a little ways and then turned a corner—in front of us, behind a split rail fence, were six tigers—not in cages, not chained up and not behind any chain link fence. WE GOT TO PET TIGERS!!!!! Not cubs, but full grown tigers with heads as big as beach balls—what a rush!!! Each person was escorted behind the fence and allowed to sit with the tigers and pet them while one of the handlers took photographs—it was one of the highlights of my life—I’ll never forget those moments. The rest of the visit to the Monastery was an anti-climax. We saw some cubs but unfortunately they were in a cage. Seemingly, if you visit in the morning while the cubs are being fed you are allowed to hold them but of course this can only happen while they are still quite young. What a great trip—long, but very enjoyable. After we got back to the hotel we freshened up and then took a taxi to the State Tower for a couple of drinks. The restaurant/bar is on the 64th floor—we sat in the open air terrace. Iris ordered a Long Island Ice Tea—I wasn’t sure what I wanted so the waitress suggested a spicy Bloody Mary—I said that sounded good so I told her that we wanted 1 Long Island Ice Tea, 1 Bloody Mary and 1 Singha Beer—I wanted a chaser for the Bloody Mary—the waitress asked me when the 3rd person was coming—I think Iris felt like jumping over the balcony—you can take the boy out of Scotland but you can’t take Scotland out of the boy!!!!! I think that this is a must visit, it may be pricey if you are on a budget but the view is phenomenal and the service is great. We had a great day today.
Dec 27th, 2005 | 12:37 PM
#9
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 271
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December 20
After breakfast we took a taxi to the Golden Palace. We hired a guide, which for us was a good idea—it stopped us wandering aimlessly and perhaps missing some of the highlights. Words can not do justice to this place—Awesome!! Asked the guide to recommend a book store and he suggested a store across the road from the entrance to the Golden Palace—bought a couple of books, one about Thailand, one about Bangkok. Next we walked to the Reclining Buddha—once again we hired a guide—Buddha very impressive!! There was a fortune teller at the Reclining Buddha—Iris wanted me to get my fortune told—anything to keep the peace. The guy was scary—he had me down pat!!! He knew things about my family that only Iris and I knew about—if it was a sham he had me fooled. Outside the Reclining Buddha a taxi driver wanted 400 baht to take us back to our hotel—I just laughed at him—The taxi in the morning had only been 80 baht—we walked around the corner and flagged one down, the fare was less than 100 baht. Went back to the Cotton House for final fitting—3 shirts ready for Iris to take—2 will be delivered to the hotel later, no problem. I had tried to make reservations for the Bed Supper Club but I had left it too late and they were fully booked for that night—oh well, next time I guess. We ate at the hotel and then had a few drinks at the Lobby bar—good singer there—I requested Moonlight in Vermont, My Funny Valentine and Stardust—they are all before my time but I like them!!
December 21
Our last day. Iris decides that she needs to buy more silk so that she can re-cover our dining room chairs. We had been told of a Thai Silk store called Shinavattra that sold good silk at reasonable prices. We took the skytrain to Asok and then using our trusty Nancy Chandler map found the store with no problem—or should I say “My me pen ha krap”—phonetic spelling of course. Iris again broke the bank and we were off again to find Khao San Road—just to say that we had been there—skytrain again and then the tourist boat up river to Banglampoo Pier. Walked through Khao San Road—we even bought food from a roadside vendor and then Tuk-tuk back to the boat and back to the hotel. Our plane was not leaving until midnight so I had arranged with the hotel to keep our bags and also for us to have a shower and a change of clothes before we went to the airport. I had ordered the hotel limo to the airport—probably a waste of money but I wanted to finish the vacation in style. When we got to the check-in they told us that one of our suitcases was way too heavy and that we, or should I say I would have to transfer 7 kilos of weight into another case—wonderful—trying to shoave 7 kilos of stuff into a space meant for 2 kilos—I handled it with my usual charm and grace while I was sweating like a pig—sorry ladies, I was glowing!!! Anyway, mission accomplished, upwards and onwards with no further complications. Relaxed in the lounge before boarding the plane. Flew to Tokyo. Narita Airport offers something called Transit Tours—the only problem is trying to get out of the airport so that you can take the tour. After a little bit of hassle we finally managed to book the tour and off we went. Everyday is a different tour—we missed the Sake Brewery by two day—our Thursday tour was to an open-air museum which consisted of a replica village from the Edo era. It was very interesting, I even got to try on Samurai Armour—very heavy and I looked like a complete Dork but the photographs are great. I was surprised how cold it was in and around Tokyo—a prelude to Toronto no doubt. We had a great flight back to Toronto—I managed 5 hours sleep. Our daughter Kelly picked us up at Pearson Airport—I got her to take one last photograph of us with all of our luggage. The end of a truly memorable vacation—Iris and I agree that it will not be the last time we visit Thailand.
After breakfast we took a taxi to the Golden Palace. We hired a guide, which for us was a good idea—it stopped us wandering aimlessly and perhaps missing some of the highlights. Words can not do justice to this place—Awesome!! Asked the guide to recommend a book store and he suggested a store across the road from the entrance to the Golden Palace—bought a couple of books, one about Thailand, one about Bangkok. Next we walked to the Reclining Buddha—once again we hired a guide—Buddha very impressive!! There was a fortune teller at the Reclining Buddha—Iris wanted me to get my fortune told—anything to keep the peace. The guy was scary—he had me down pat!!! He knew things about my family that only Iris and I knew about—if it was a sham he had me fooled. Outside the Reclining Buddha a taxi driver wanted 400 baht to take us back to our hotel—I just laughed at him—The taxi in the morning had only been 80 baht—we walked around the corner and flagged one down, the fare was less than 100 baht. Went back to the Cotton House for final fitting—3 shirts ready for Iris to take—2 will be delivered to the hotel later, no problem. I had tried to make reservations for the Bed Supper Club but I had left it too late and they were fully booked for that night—oh well, next time I guess. We ate at the hotel and then had a few drinks at the Lobby bar—good singer there—I requested Moonlight in Vermont, My Funny Valentine and Stardust—they are all before my time but I like them!!
December 21
Our last day. Iris decides that she needs to buy more silk so that she can re-cover our dining room chairs. We had been told of a Thai Silk store called Shinavattra that sold good silk at reasonable prices. We took the skytrain to Asok and then using our trusty Nancy Chandler map found the store with no problem—or should I say “My me pen ha krap”—phonetic spelling of course. Iris again broke the bank and we were off again to find Khao San Road—just to say that we had been there—skytrain again and then the tourist boat up river to Banglampoo Pier. Walked through Khao San Road—we even bought food from a roadside vendor and then Tuk-tuk back to the boat and back to the hotel. Our plane was not leaving until midnight so I had arranged with the hotel to keep our bags and also for us to have a shower and a change of clothes before we went to the airport. I had ordered the hotel limo to the airport—probably a waste of money but I wanted to finish the vacation in style. When we got to the check-in they told us that one of our suitcases was way too heavy and that we, or should I say I would have to transfer 7 kilos of weight into another case—wonderful—trying to shoave 7 kilos of stuff into a space meant for 2 kilos—I handled it with my usual charm and grace while I was sweating like a pig—sorry ladies, I was glowing!!! Anyway, mission accomplished, upwards and onwards with no further complications. Relaxed in the lounge before boarding the plane. Flew to Tokyo. Narita Airport offers something called Transit Tours—the only problem is trying to get out of the airport so that you can take the tour. After a little bit of hassle we finally managed to book the tour and off we went. Everyday is a different tour—we missed the Sake Brewery by two day—our Thursday tour was to an open-air museum which consisted of a replica village from the Edo era. It was very interesting, I even got to try on Samurai Armour—very heavy and I looked like a complete Dork but the photographs are great. I was surprised how cold it was in and around Tokyo—a prelude to Toronto no doubt. We had a great flight back to Toronto—I managed 5 hours sleep. Our daughter Kelly picked us up at Pearson Airport—I got her to take one last photograph of us with all of our luggage. The end of a truly memorable vacation—Iris and I agree that it will not be the last time we visit Thailand.
Dec 27th, 2005 | 06:18 PM
#14
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,900
Likes: 0
Thanks for the report, Robmac!
I am hoping to fly to Thailand a few days in advance of my boyfriend and Kanchanaburi is one of the places I was considering spending a few night.
The Tiger Temple is fairly close to Kanchanaburi, right?
I am hoping to fly to Thailand a few days in advance of my boyfriend and Kanchanaburi is one of the places I was considering spending a few night.
The Tiger Temple is fairly close to Kanchanaburi, right?
Dec 27th, 2005 | 06:35 PM
#15
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 29,053
Likes: 0
Mc---this report is FANTASTIC!!!!!
i laughed several times, and while you started out badly it all ended up well...samui is nice but i fully agree with you about chaewang beach town..."what a dump".....next time try bophut...
while in koh chang we ate twice at amari....we really liked it...they are very friendly...it looks like the rooms might be nice, but we did not get to see any...the beach and pool certainly are and the grounds are the nicest i saw on koh chang....we may try it another time...
my only regret from your trip is that you didn't have nicer hotels in bangkok...next time make it the marriott resort and spa or one of the other riverside hotels....live and learn...
so have you called yet for reservations for next year...??
bob
i laughed several times, and while you started out badly it all ended up well...samui is nice but i fully agree with you about chaewang beach town..."what a dump".....next time try bophut...
while in koh chang we ate twice at amari....we really liked it...they are very friendly...it looks like the rooms might be nice, but we did not get to see any...the beach and pool certainly are and the grounds are the nicest i saw on koh chang....we may try it another time...
my only regret from your trip is that you didn't have nicer hotels in bangkok...next time make it the marriott resort and spa or one of the other riverside hotels....live and learn...
so have you called yet for reservations for next year...??
bob
Dec 28th, 2005 | 03:47 AM
#18
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Thank you all for your kind words. I am glad you enjoyed the report, after all I was living vicariously through you all before Iris and I left for Thailand.
Eurotraveller, yes the Tiger Temple is close to Kanchanaburi.
Bob--unfortunately all my vacation time is already taken care of for next year. My brother is getting married--again--in New York in April and I also have to spend time with my Mother in Scotland. BUT Iris and I are already talking about 2007 for a return visit. I think that we now have Thailand in our blood. Next time though we will go to Bangkok first and then one of the islands--probably back to Koh Chang--for the remainder of our trip.
Eurotraveller, yes the Tiger Temple is close to Kanchanaburi.
Bob--unfortunately all my vacation time is already taken care of for next year. My brother is getting married--again--in New York in April and I also have to spend time with my Mother in Scotland. BUT Iris and I are already talking about 2007 for a return visit. I think that we now have Thailand in our blood. Next time though we will go to Bangkok first and then one of the islands--probably back to Koh Chang--for the remainder of our trip.
