Soft Sleeper trains? How was it?
Jul 25th, 2003 | 06:36 AM
#1
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Soft Sleeper trains? How was it?
We have seen the internet description and photo of the Soft Sleeper Train and wonder if anyone has used it. It accommodates four people. Is that any four people or, if on a tour would it only be with tour members? Your experience and knowledge would be interesting to us.
Jul 25th, 2003 | 11:32 AM
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
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The quality of soft sleeper accommodation varies according to whether then train is an international or domestic one, and according to the class of train, if domestic. Standards also vary a little from region to region (that's services under one rail authority's control as opposed to another, which doesn't have as much to do with geography as you might expect). In some areas the rail authorities have responded to the challenge of luxury sleeper buses running on the new highways. In others they haven't.
So there's no such thing as 'the' Soft Sleeper Train; it's merely a class of accommodation, not available on all trains, and varying from region to region, train to train.
International soft sleeper accommodation tends to be of a slightly higher standard than on domestic trains, but this isn't universally true. On domestic routes, T (tekuai) trains tend to have the best accommodation, K (kuaisu) the next (may be just as good), L (luyou--tourist) trains vary, and trains with no letter prefix the lowest quality. But the main indication of the letters is speed, and a no-prefix train I took last year between Xiamen and Nanchang was the classiest Chinese train I've ever been on: Smartly uniformed, beautifully coiffed and made-up attendants who looked as if they should have been on a plane; free wash kit; reliable hot water in the washrooms; shaver socket, soap, and electric hand drier in the washrooms; slippers in the compartment sealed in plastic like those of hotels.
But most are not like this (yet). The constants (unless you are on the slowest of trains in the remotest backwater of China) are: Four beds in two columns of two (the upper berths are slightly cheaper than the lower ones); clean linen, pillowcase, and blanket (quilt in winter), which you assemble yourself; slippers (under the lower berth somewhere); a control over the volume of the PA system and its propaganda announcements and piped music; individual reading lights for each berth; a small table and waste bin; two large thermos flasks containing boiled water, which on some trains will be regularly refilled by the attendants, and on others you go down to the boiler at the end of the carriage to refill yourself.
Newer rolling stock as a lavatory and washroom at one end, and two lavatories at the other, at least one of which will be Western style. Lavatory hygiene is not China's strongest point, and on lengthy trips on the older rolling stock, water tends to run out. There will often only be cold water to wash with, and that may run out, too. But in general standards are now higher than this.
If you buy a ticket yourself, of course you share the compartment with whoever else has bought tickets for those berths. Tour groups tend to stay together, however, but if your group is, say, ten people, then the chances are that two unknowns will be in the other two berths. If you are on a tour this will be, in fact, one of your best chances to have an entirely unscripted exchange with Chinese people, and so perhaps to be welcomed.
In general, then, you need have no fear of soft sleeper accommodation. The food on board trains is now almost universally terrible (although on the train I mentioned above I did, unexpectedly, have a rather good hui guo rou--'return to the pot' pork--which had been localized to Jiangxi Province spiciness). The fast food (the same, 'kuai can', in Chinese) which comes past on trolleys is horrible, too. It's best to take stocks of appealing snacks with you, which you find in convenience stores (rather than at the station) before you board. Most Chinese towns have pretty good bakeries now, and even instant noodles (fangbian mian--'convenient' noodles in Mandarin) are preferable to most food served on the train, although these packages are also sold on board, as are beer, soft drinks, mineral water, crackers, potato chips, etc. Platform vendors occasionally have more edible one-pot meals, and fresh fruit at marked prices (but be very careful about peeling).
Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
So there's no such thing as 'the' Soft Sleeper Train; it's merely a class of accommodation, not available on all trains, and varying from region to region, train to train.
International soft sleeper accommodation tends to be of a slightly higher standard than on domestic trains, but this isn't universally true. On domestic routes, T (tekuai) trains tend to have the best accommodation, K (kuaisu) the next (may be just as good), L (luyou--tourist) trains vary, and trains with no letter prefix the lowest quality. But the main indication of the letters is speed, and a no-prefix train I took last year between Xiamen and Nanchang was the classiest Chinese train I've ever been on: Smartly uniformed, beautifully coiffed and made-up attendants who looked as if they should have been on a plane; free wash kit; reliable hot water in the washrooms; shaver socket, soap, and electric hand drier in the washrooms; slippers in the compartment sealed in plastic like those of hotels.
But most are not like this (yet). The constants (unless you are on the slowest of trains in the remotest backwater of China) are: Four beds in two columns of two (the upper berths are slightly cheaper than the lower ones); clean linen, pillowcase, and blanket (quilt in winter), which you assemble yourself; slippers (under the lower berth somewhere); a control over the volume of the PA system and its propaganda announcements and piped music; individual reading lights for each berth; a small table and waste bin; two large thermos flasks containing boiled water, which on some trains will be regularly refilled by the attendants, and on others you go down to the boiler at the end of the carriage to refill yourself.
Newer rolling stock as a lavatory and washroom at one end, and two lavatories at the other, at least one of which will be Western style. Lavatory hygiene is not China's strongest point, and on lengthy trips on the older rolling stock, water tends to run out. There will often only be cold water to wash with, and that may run out, too. But in general standards are now higher than this.
If you buy a ticket yourself, of course you share the compartment with whoever else has bought tickets for those berths. Tour groups tend to stay together, however, but if your group is, say, ten people, then the chances are that two unknowns will be in the other two berths. If you are on a tour this will be, in fact, one of your best chances to have an entirely unscripted exchange with Chinese people, and so perhaps to be welcomed.
In general, then, you need have no fear of soft sleeper accommodation. The food on board trains is now almost universally terrible (although on the train I mentioned above I did, unexpectedly, have a rather good hui guo rou--'return to the pot' pork--which had been localized to Jiangxi Province spiciness). The fast food (the same, 'kuai can', in Chinese) which comes past on trolleys is horrible, too. It's best to take stocks of appealing snacks with you, which you find in convenience stores (rather than at the station) before you board. Most Chinese towns have pretty good bakeries now, and even instant noodles (fangbian mian--'convenient' noodles in Mandarin) are preferable to most food served on the train, although these packages are also sold on board, as are beer, soft drinks, mineral water, crackers, potato chips, etc. Platform vendors occasionally have more edible one-pot meals, and fresh fruit at marked prices (but be very careful about peeling).
Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
Jul 25th, 2003 | 12:10 PM
#4
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Can you let us know of which Asian country you speak?
I have used the Soft Sleeper class in Vietnam, but I have no idea if you are considering Vietnam or China.
As for Vietnam, the Soft Sleeper class is very comfortable. It accomodates 4 people in bunk beds. I think the beds are fairly soft and there is plenty of luggage storage space below the beds and above the doorway. It was nice and quiet. The bathroom with a sink and mirror are down the hall. Overall, a good experience.
Only negatives witht he train in Vietnam was the food
and the military police who enter your room, or at least look in, about two times per night. You lock the door then they unlock it and look around while you are sleeping, which is a little disturbing for more than one reason.
As for the tour group, you will be matched with members from your group, if possible. However, if there is an odd number, you will be paired with strangers.
I have used the Soft Sleeper class in Vietnam, but I have no idea if you are considering Vietnam or China.
As for Vietnam, the Soft Sleeper class is very comfortable. It accomodates 4 people in bunk beds. I think the beds are fairly soft and there is plenty of luggage storage space below the beds and above the doorway. It was nice and quiet. The bathroom with a sink and mirror are down the hall. Overall, a good experience.
Only negatives witht he train in Vietnam was the food
and the military police who enter your room, or at least look in, about two times per night. You lock the door then they unlock it and look around while you are sleeping, which is a little disturbing for more than one reason.As for the tour group, you will be matched with members from your group, if possible. However, if there is an odd number, you will be paired with strangers.
Jul 25th, 2003 | 12:32 PM
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,778
Likes: 0
My apologies. I'd never heard the trains in Vietnam referred to as soft sleepers, and had automatically assumed the reference to be to China, when the term is commonplace.
Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
Jul 25th, 2003 | 12:59 PM
#6
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Hey Peter,
Don't apologize, we still have no idea what country is being discussed. I just addressed Vietnam because it is the country in Asia to which I have been where they referred to First Class as Soft Sleeper, but I have not been to China. From what I understand, Communist countries with train networks refer to First Class as Soft Sleeper, Second Class as Hard Sleeper, etc.
Don't apologize, we still have no idea what country is being discussed. I just addressed Vietnam because it is the country in Asia to which I have been where they referred to First Class as Soft Sleeper, but I have not been to China. From what I understand, Communist countries with train networks refer to First Class as Soft Sleeper, Second Class as Hard Sleeper, etc.
Jul 25th, 2003 | 03:28 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
My humble apologies; the train in question is an overnight journey from Suzhou - Qufu described as follows "overnight soft-sleeper train."
On the internet I was able to get the following interesting information:
A "soft sleeper" train compartment is the top of the line. It has four bunks, teacups, sheets and blankets. Males and females may be together in one compartment. It's comfortable, but the bunk may be a little cramped for the average American man. Trains often leave in the evening and arrive at their destination in the morning.
Hard sleeper is the next step down for overnight travel. The sleeper berths are not bad. A car is divided into about a dozen compartments, each containing two sets of three bunks. You get a sheet and a blanket. An attendant comes through the car selling fast food in a styrofoam tray.
Soft seat is the next level, good for day trips. Hard seat is the low-end. Despite the name 'hard seat,' the seats are cushioned. Not everybody gets a seat, however. Some people have to stand for 10 or 12 hours.
On the internet I was able to get the following interesting information:
A "soft sleeper" train compartment is the top of the line. It has four bunks, teacups, sheets and blankets. Males and females may be together in one compartment. It's comfortable, but the bunk may be a little cramped for the average American man. Trains often leave in the evening and arrive at their destination in the morning.
Hard sleeper is the next step down for overnight travel. The sleeper berths are not bad. A car is divided into about a dozen compartments, each containing two sets of three bunks. You get a sheet and a blanket. An attendant comes through the car selling fast food in a styrofoam tray.
Soft seat is the next level, good for day trips. Hard seat is the low-end. Despite the name 'hard seat,' the seats are cushioned. Not everybody gets a seat, however. Some people have to stand for 10 or 12 hours.
