I won't go day by day, but will give the highlights. My travel agent was Prashant Maurya at India Invites (www.indiainvites.com). Prashant did an amazing job of setting everything up and became a friend in the months before our travel.

We arrived in Delhi late at night and was greeted by our local contact with roses and Prashant called me on our way to the hotel.

Each city we visited we were met either by our guide and driver or at least a local contact and driver. Nothing was left to chance. We were VERY impressed.

We visited Delhi, Jaipur, Agra, Khajuraho, Bandhavgarh and Varanasi.

We absolutely loved India and can't wait to go back. I have too much to post, so will only give highlights or information I have not seen here before:

1. Rickshaw ride in Old Delhi
2. Jaipur - everything. Love the Rajasthan area. The elephant ride up to amber fort is worthwhile.
3. Heritage on Wheels. We had a blast. The only downside for us was you're on the train with nothing but other tourists. Beyond that, it was great. Food (too much of it - I think they were fattening us up!) was excellent and authentic. The staff were brilliant. The places they take you are fantastic. I would recommend it. If you want to know more, email me at [email protected].
4. Agra - the Taj truly is stunning.
5. Khajuraho. The temples are amazing. We stayed at the Jass Radisson, which was older, but nicely appointed. Had a zen-like feel to it. The food in the restaurant was brillant (have their homemade pickle and do have a drink in the bar with their just-roasted peanuts). One of the waiters even invited us over for dinner, but we were only staying one night.
6. Bandhavgarh - we saw 5 tigers. Two cubs by elephant and three adults by jeep. We stayed at the Tigers Den and, again, amazing staff and food. Recommmended guide: Teeret. A young man who really knows his stuff.
7. Varanasi - our highlight was our guide, H.K. Singh. We spent three days with him and he became a dear friend. He showed us so much of Varanasi - the heart and soul - and taught us so much about Hinduism. Varanasi IS India and is brilliant. One thing we did that Prashant arranged for us that I don't think other tourists do, was to take a 4 hour boat ride down the Ganges. What a brilliant time we had. Singh's wife made us some food, we brought a couple of beers and enjoyed the sights along the waterfront. Singh and the "Sons of the Ganges" (the two men who captained the boat) enjoyed it as much as we did.

Lastly, I must say, I'm glad I emotionally prepared myself for India. As my husband says, "You can't look too deep or too long." I cried the day I was leaving and cried on and off the next few days. My husband and I both dream of India every night and we've been back 3 weeks. I'm still not sure what the tears are for, as nothing upset me while I was there. Taking a car and driver is so amazing, especially if you are like us and want to get the know the people. My husband always sat up front to chat with the driver. We enjoyed driving from town to town and seeing the small villages along the way. Indians are the warmest people I've ever met. They don't intrude, but if you engage them, you will quickly have a friend.

This sounds absolutely wonderful. Exactly what we look for in a trip - to become emotionally connected. I have not been to India yet but its on my list. Thanks so much for sharing .....
Tracey

Sounds like an amazing trip. How many days did you spend in India and can you give me a general idea of the in-country costs for a personalized trip like that? I've wanted to go to India for so long, but I think the only way I'll get my husband there will be to do something along the lines of what you did.

Hi,
What I have been saying for years is that India has a secret way of inserting some kind of magnetic attraction, that starts to pull you back almost as soon as you get home.
Yours is a true picture of the experiences of so many, but put by so few in such great language. Thanks

We were in India for 15 days. Our total was approximately $4,000 which included all hotels (nice hotels with good rooms), Heritage on Wheels, breakfast daily, the drivers, guides, one dinner, and entry to all monuments. And thank you all for your nice comments. We can't wait to go back.

I can't believe I forgot this highlight, but we loved Sarnath and highly recommend going there.

This report is just great. I was moved reading this since being a American of Indian origin all I hear from people is about how filthy the country is, the noise, diseases, poverty etc. But to appreciate India truly one has to seek deeper into it emotionally and culturally. I may be biased here but there is nothing to beat India and one keeps thinking about it all the time. I have friends who had told me that they will never go back to India and they keep visiting it year by year.

Great report. Looking forward to hearding more of these. Very happy to note that you and your husband enjoyed it.

Wonderful report.. India is one of the magic places I dream about, but you hear so many negatives! I would like to replicate your trip and will be visiting the websie you recommend.
Thanks for posting.

Dear CJ, just a heads up, I took you up on your offer and emailed you offline RE your trip. I've been emailing Prashant and am seriously considering booking with him.
Again, thanks!