moxie

Air France still gives free Champers in economy though they pour from a big bottle and the quality is a little better than the little bottles. They also give out little "guest bags" at the start of the flights: headphones you can use at home too, eye masks, ear plugs and little towelettes. This was very nice.

Another thing I forgot to mention was that there are no paper towels in public bathrooms; luckily we travel with a cloth napkin and therefore we could dry our hands too.

My report comes off as if I hate school kids but I don't, I spoke to several and they were charming; it was just the HUGE groups of them taking public transport and forming unrulely lines which was shocking to me (again this was only in Kyoto).

moxie

The dumplings are called Hanami-dango and can be seen here:

http://www.big.or.jp/~loupe/links/ff.../hmdango.shtml

Translation:
"They are a very popular sweet, a dumpling made of rice four on a fine bamboo skewer. Hanami-dango, are sweetened and coloured pink, white and green. As with hishi-mochi, white symbolises snow, green, the young leaves and pink, the flowers."

kappa

Mara,

Those are the same things even though your photo's look a little more natural maybe.

> I had read that Japanese think it is impolite to eat food while walking ..

Traditionally yes, that's why those food stands often have sort of benches next to it where you can sit and eat. But I guess things are changing more and more.

OK, moxie, the dango you had was already sweetend/seasoned in itself with green tea, plum or cherry flavor. Usual white ones are not thus need sauce. Hanami simply means "(cherry)flower watching" and yes, actually hanami-dango is another popular way to call a certain types of dango.

jjester

Hi Moxie,

Love your trip report - sounds like you had a marvellous time. I'm heading to Japan, myself, in a couple of weeks.

You mentioned buying the 1000 yen net-pass for the subway. I presume this is some sort of stored value card that you use over a numbers of days as opposed to a single day pass? Also can this be used on both the subway systems - TRTA and TOEI and also on the JR Yamanote line?

I have three days in Tokyo sightseeing on my own while my husband is attending a conference and plan to whizz all over the place by train!

moxie

Thanks, I hope you have as wonderful a time as we did. Do print out the subway map in english in coulour before you go -- it was a huge help.

Yes the pass net cards offer no discount just fast enter and exit. They work on both subway company lines; we never had a reason to take the circle Yamote line so I don't know if it's valid here.

KMLoke

There are free English version of the Metro maps available at some stations. Look out for them.

mrwunrfl

moxie, I enjoyed reading the Miyajima- Matsuyama- Himeji part of this trip report today. I don't know how I missed this trip report back in May.

Topping this might help the another Japan travel planner decide on going to Matsuyama. I knew that you went to Dogo but am surprised that you actually stayed at Hotel Patio Dogo. I really liked that place, lots more room than Tokyo Hilton and much lower price.

And across the street from Dogo Onsen honkan is/was a shopping arcade and people wore their yukata. Most definitely Dogo (as you learned) is used by locals. And it is famous so that Japanese tourists pose in front of it for their "I was there" shot.

Dogo Onsen is a wonderful place but when recommending an onsen I am concerned that people might be equating onsen with a place in the country. But an onsen is just a hot spring, and it can be in the middle of the city in Japan. I've got to post some of my photos on the web, I have a good one of a school group (little ones) enjoying the cuckoo clock near the Dogo streetcar station.

I didn't see anyone reply to your comment about the lady getting in the bath without first washing up. This is common, and you probably would have noticed that she didn't stay long, maybe a minute, and then she went to the stool and did the routine: soap, scrub, rinse, repeat. Not only is it common, but I think it actually is standard practice. I generally don't do that and just go right to the soap (and it is ok to do this).

Yes putting your undies on under your yukata was correct. Were you possibly dripping water (from your hair, or body, or towel) onto the tatami mat? It's just about as complicated leaving an onsen bath, especially a place the size of Dogo which is not a big bath area, as it is entering it. You've got that one thin hand towel to dry off with, so you wipe up the wet, wring it out, and continue to other spots of your body only to find that the first spots are now damp with perspiration and condensation. You kind of have to dry off three times, don't you?, starting each go a bit less damp than the last one, until you are dry enough. Seems kind of silly to describe something as routine as drying yourself off, but traveling does have its way of getting a person away from the old routines.

moxie

Thanks mrwunrfl; It was a wonderful trip thanks to your advice!

No I wasn't dripping on the mat; maybe my hair was too wet but seriously I dont't know how I could have dried it more I'd love to go back.

tower

Moxie:

I thoroughly enjoyed the report. I'm heading back to re-visit Japan in April...first visit since I was a GI stationed in, yes, Beppu!! From 1946-1948.

None of the hells were opened to us..all off limits...it was shortly after the war ended, of course. Beppu was a sleepy little beach/spa town...

I recently wrote to another Fodorite who had been there with husband and baby...

I can't wait for my visit, and in fact I've written to the Mayor and we will have a meeting at the site of our former 19th Infantry Regiment, "Camp Chickamauga". I believe it is now a school.

Your detailed notes will be invaluable because we're also going to visit Tokyo (it was flat as a board, all bombed out when I last sat 60 years ago!), Kyoto and Hiroshima. (By the way, I plan on taking the train from Kyoto direct to Narita)...

Wonderfully written report, Moxie.

Stu T.
(Note:If you'd like to see some photos I took in Beppu way back then..pre-digital of course...I can scan a few and send them to you...send me an e-mail so I'll have your address..I gave this same offer to that other couple, too)

Stu T. [email protected]

andrewmlin

Great trip report Moxie, I enjoyed reading it. Thanks for posting. Hearing about the Tsukiji Fish Market, the face-masks, the plastic food make me remember my great times in Japan. Thanks for bringing it all back!

Andrew
TripTie.com