I am close to booking airfares, departing 21 January 2017, returning 12 February 2017.
Alternatively, we could leave 14 January, return 5 February.

We have 21 nights for southern India and Mumbai, this will be our second visit to India. We're an active couple, still 50's (although one of us won't be on return). We enjoy architecture, history, temples, nature, food, culture and cities.

Here's the plan so far, I welcome your general comments and accommodation suggestions. I'd like to average about US $70 per night for hotels, although nothing's set in stone and I do want to splurge on one, see below.

Arrive in Chennai near midnight (body clock says 4.30 am) after 22 hours in transit.
Stay 2 nights Chennai.

India by car and driver to Pondicherry via Mamallapuram.
Stay 2 nights Pondicherry.

Drive to Trichy via Thanjavor.
Stay 2 nights Trichy.

Drive to Madurai.
Stay 3 nights Madurai.

Drive to Alleppey, say goodbye to driver.
Stay 2 nights Alleppey (one on houseboat).

Car to Kochi.
Stay 3 nights Kochi.

Fly to Panjim Goa.
Stay 3 nights Panjim.

Fly to Mumbai.
Stay 4 nights Mumbai.

Home.

There will be a special birthday on either our last day in Madurai, or second night in Goa. I'd like to stay somewhere salubrious, is it fair to say that Goa would be a better option ? Any specific lodging suggestions, (haveli would be good) ?

Have I got the right number of nights for each place ? We will be travelling light and don't mind moving frequently.

I've roughed out sites to see and things to do in each place, what were your favourite things ?

There will be 4 domestic flights, are any airlines to be avoided ?

Thanks so much.

I would definitely pick Panjim over Madurai for a special event!

Consider this: http://www.panjiminn.com/hotel.html

I stayed in the Panjim Inn and the Pousada. Historic and comfortable but not luxurious, although it looks like they may have been upgraded since (that was 2001!). However, the late lamented dogster subsequently stayed at Panjim Peoples and thought well of it. There are also some upmarket properties in the countryside, I believe. I don't think I would stay at the beaches, as they will probably be overrun with tourists.

[I thought haveli were specific to the northwest?]

I would drive directly from the airport to Pondicherry and recover from jet lag there. I found it a bit disappointing, but Chennai was worse. Head for the temples as soon as possible, or consider a detour through Chettinad (click on my name for my South Asia TR and search on Chettinad).

Hi Sartoric.

I've been only to Kerala in your trip itinerary.

What time does flight arrive? That for me would determine where I'd spend the first day/night in recovery mode.

You have a lot of time in cities, compared to the quieter countryside in Tamil Nadu, or backwaters in Kerala. I love Cochin, but I'd trade a night there and add it to a backwaters hotel/homestay. Likewise, subtract a day from Madurai perhaps, and spend some time in Chettinad area, as recommended by Thursdaysd and others. Check rje's trip report, among others.

Haven't been to Chennai, but because everyone i know and trust considers the city eminently skippable, I'd go to Mahaballipuram (Mammallapruam)straight from the airport for your first overnight stay... unless you arrive at the airport at night. In that case, check out the Trident, right near the airport. Next morning, you could head off to start the travel part of the trip.

For Panjim, you might have meant "homestay' instead of "haveli" and yes, there are places like that.

Happy upcoming trip and big event!

If you want to stay in Goa then you can continue at………
1) Siolim House.
2) The Banyan Soul.
3) Hotel Seagull.
4) The Leela Goa.
5) Goa Marriott Resort & spa.

Try to avoid GO AIR and JET KONNECT airlines, they have very low quality of services, like…….
In-flight entertainment, in-flight food/beverages, time taken to deliver baggage, seat comfort/ leg room

I would definitely not book any flights on an domestic airline called Vistara. ON a recent trip they cancelled two flights we had booked and completely failed to tell us either phone or by text or by email.

Thanks for all your replies.

We arrive in Chennai at 23.50 after about 22 hours in transit, so will not want to go any further, the airport hotel is a good idea. If we skip a day in Chennai, where best to make it up ? Tanjore perhaps ?

It's been suggested by India car and driver to skip a day in Madurai, and add a day in Periyar to break up the long drive. Anyone been there ?

I'm not finding much info on the Chettinad area, but will keep looking.

You're right about haveli, my mistake. I'm leaning towards the earlier departure.
A few airlines to avoid, thanks again.

https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...-by-chettinad/

There were a couple of paragraphs in the Fodors guide I was using, don't know about the current one. Pobably also Lonely Planet, Rough Guide and Footprints.

Thanks thursdaysd. I have the latest LP digital version, but it's not so easy to flick between pages, it will be more useful when we're actually in India. There are a few pages on the western ghats. I also have a paper copy of LP 2005, but nothing in there.

Checked my bookcase. Turns out I still have LP's South India from 2009, but it has no reference to Chettinad. However, neither does my 2008 Fodors India. Now I am at a loss! I know I read about Chettinad, and the two hotels I mentioned in the blog piece, which is why I visited, but have no idea where!

I honestly don't know if I'd spend a night on a houseboat in the backwaters. We used the regular public transportation boat on the river one way from our homestay (definitely not a place I'd recommend) in the backwaters to go to Alleppy. We walked around a couple hours and then took a "special" boat that had an upper deck designed for tourists. The was $1 rather than the .40 we'd paid for the boat into town. We felt that we'd had a better experience than those who did the overnight houseboat. The best part of the backwaters experience was the small canoe type boat that took us into the very small canals that people live on.

As far as Goa we too had initially thought about staying in Panjim, but then I came across reviews of a place not too far away that got fantastic reviews. We booked there for 4 nights instead of staying in Panjim. We felt it was a really good decision for us. Look into Olalulim Backyards--a homestay type place where you get your own little cottage and share common meals with the owners and the rest of the guests. The owners--Pirko and Savio--are super helpful about day trip planning, and have a driver they will set up for guests.

You could also take the overnight train to Goa from Kochi, but this is time consuming. It is supposed to be one of the most scenic train rides in India.

I did the houseboat over two nights, and very much enjoyed it, but it was in 2001. Back then there were few boats - I think our required overnight mooring had a total of six if that, spread well apart - but I gather the waterway is now crowded. Back then our boat had no electricity, so no AC, but I gather that is a thing of the past, too.

Okay, another question...I've cut a night In Chennai, so have one spare. Would you spend it in Mamallipuram or Tanjore ?

Thanks julies, I'm rethinking the houseboat. At least we will be able to see what's on offer when there. I don't think DH would appreciate 14 hours on a train, lol. On a recent trip, 9 hours on a ferry was my idea. He thought it sucked.

Re: Chettinad:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/external_cl...pdf?1428900144

below are some area lodgings--all sites have information about the area.

http://sarathavilas.com

http://www.thebangala.com/explore-chettinad/

http://www.cghearth.com/visalam

As i wrote above, I've been only to Kerala, not the southern end of TN. However, in anticipation of a trip to South India in February (which I've changed to Gujarat) I did loads of research via reading, questions to friends who've lived and traveled there, and my fantastic travel agent whose company is based in Trichy. While my trip to that area is postponed, perhaps you can use some of what i learned. I would not travel to this part of the world and NOT visit the Chettinad area.

Upon arrival to Chennai, by the time you are out of customs and into hotel, it will be (if lucky) close to 1 a.m. So yes, definitely stay overnight near the airport (Trident --an Oberoi company--should cost bout $100 USD but there are less $ places nearby). You've been to India before, so you know driving at night is especially....exciting? challenging? best avoided? (searching for accurate euphemism). Have one of those wonderful Indian buffet breakfasts, head for your "Mahabs"visit, and then to Pondicherry arriving late in day, for your two-night stay.

Periyar makes sense as a half-way point, but don't expect much in terms of the national park there---very overloaded with tourists. Also, did you have a particular reason for staying on the Alleppey side, vs the Kottayam side, of Vembanad Lake/ backwaters? As said in your first enquiry about thi s trip, IF you want a bit of lakeside and r combined with an overnight houseboat in a quieter (than Alleppey) area, one of the resorts there (The Taj, Kumarokom Lake, Cocounut Lagoon) would probably have their own houseboat (although at a heftier price).

Totally agree with Julie S about how to see the backwaters. If you decide to stay overnight in the Alleppey area, there are many good homestays (excluding the one JulieS stayed at ) Again, I refer you to rje's photo and written report (among many others, including those of JulieS and Thursdaysd)). Rje not only described in detail the Chettinad area, but also a trip he took on the backwaters as a day trip from Ft Cochin (could be one of your three days in Cochin if you go with that plan) which includes contact information for the man they went with. Note: one of the most interesting sites in Cochin, the Paradesi Synagogue, is closed on Fridays and Saturdays.

I haven't been to South India but had planned a (fabulous) 2+ week trip for February, which we've had to postpone because of uncertainty about my MIL's health.... (hopefully, we'll go in the not too distant future)... but I just want to tag on to what others have said here and share my research and plans, for what it's worth...

My focus was South India, mostly Tamil Nadu; the trip planned was, as follows:

Arrive Chennai. Stay in Mababalipuram (1 night).
Pondicherry - 2 nights
Tanjore - 2 nights
Chettinad - 2 nights
Madurai - 2 nights
Munnar - 2 nights
Backwaters homestay/Alleppey (2 nights)
Cochin (2 nights, leave late on last day).

Here are some articles that I found really helpful; like Calinurse suggest, rje's trip report was enormously helpful in planning as well. While I can't tell you from experience what these places are like, I did read plenty and thought that this short trip hit some of the highlights. Of course, I was saving Mumbai for another, longer trip in the future....

http://www.travelandleisure.com/arti...-of-tamil-nadu

http://www.natgeotraveller.in/magazi...-short-breaks/

http://www.fullstopindia.com/a-brief...ad-tamil-nadu/

http://kapaleeswarartemple.com/festivals/

http://manakulavinayagartemple.com/Default.htm

http://www.cntraveler.com/stories/20...ias-tamil-nadu

Hope this helps your planning!

Looks like the above national geographic traveller link doesn't work, but this one should:

http://www.natgeotraveller.in/chetti...tique-markets/

If you want the hotels/homestays I had identified, I'll be happy to share them, too. I just don't want to overload you here!

Yes, progol, I would be interested in the hotels you found, as I am working on my Tamil Nadu trip for next September. Also, did you find a suitable driver?

Thanks.

Thank you both, this is very helpful, and another reason to love this forum.
Now that I've read about Chettinad, and know where it is, I will rework the plan to include at least one, maybe two nights.

I'd also like to see the hotels you chose Progol.

Happy to share my information with you, sartoric and CaliforniaLady.

With a lot of wonderful reviews on the internet and with much thanks to CaliNurse, I've been working with Tim at IndianPanorama (http://www.indianpanorama.in/) so the company would be arranging drivers. I will say I used another agency for my previous trip and was very happy with them; I'm even more impressed with IP, as they are incredibly responsive and really "get" the idea of what I'm looking for in my travels. If you're looking to work with an agency, I highly recommend them.

Some of the hotels are through my own research (which IP works with as well) ; others are recommendations from the agency. The agency had done all the booking for the hotels. In the past, I took care of it and realized it wasn't worth my time and energy!

After a visit to Rajasthan, I was surprised that the cost of hotels are higher in the south for what you get. Still not sure why, but I found it pretty consistently so. We are what I call value travelers -- will spend to be comfortable and will occasionally go for a smaller room in a luxe-style place. But we are generally mid-range, and the higher end of my hotel picks are perhaps between $150-$180, with perhaps one coming close to $200 (generally way above what I spend).

-Mahabalipuram - Radisson Temple Bay
-Pondicherry (Maison Perumal)
-Tanjore (just outside) - Ideal River Resort
-Chettinad - Saratha Villas
-Madurai - Heritage Madurai
-Munnar - Ambady Estate
-Alleppey - Ermerald Isle (homestay)
-Cochin- Eighth Bastion (Old Harbour is wonderful but for similar cost, the room at Eighth Bastion was a better deal).

I'm still disappointed that we're not going but I suspect that India will remain the same in a year or two when we get there!

Hope this helps!

Progol, I love your two week itinerary! You planned for wonderful paces, with limited driving time between them. Perfect example of making the most and best of two weeks. Fingers crossed you do it some day, before long! I'm keeping this for future reference for when i get TN.

(Digression: There should be a topic on Fodors devoted to the challenges and joys of two week trips, for those of us with that time limitation imposed by work and/or family obligations, budget, and age limits, i.e. knowing a trip will be a once-only. Too many places, not enough years!)

When planning the trip, I recall info that at The Heritage, Madurai, for not much $ above the basic room rate, it is better to get a pool villa.

Location of Eighth Bastion is excellent, if you are shopper, Sartoric: both Anokhi and a small branch of Fabindia are within a one minute walk, and a great bargain restaurant called Dal Roti is about two minutes from there.

You asked for tips about your destinations. Here are a few:

Wherever you stay in Cochin, it should be IN Fort Kochin, not on the outskirts. You want to be in this great area for "having a wander" to absorb the atmosphere. Tuk tuks are easy, and best way for the short drive to Jewtown (yes, that is what it is called!) in order to see the synagogue and little streets.

One interesting Fort Kochi hotel within your stated $70 budget, is Old Courtyard (not to be confused with Old Harbour). It's a "heritage property" in a great location. There are also, literally, hundreds of homestays in the area. JulieS stayed at one she liked a lot (I noted it!) I think called Fort Bungalow.

https://www.oldcourtyard.com

http://thefortbungalow.com

I'll be in Mumbai for first time a few weeks after you, so again, this is based not on personal experience (yet) but on recommendation by travel planner, plus followup reviews on tripadvisor. I went back and forth about dong a "slum tour" but after reading, decided yes,as the two recommended ones sound quite the opposite of "exploitative."

http://realitytoursandtravel.com/why-reality.php

http://bethelocaltoursandtravels.com

Pondicherry: Also has homestays and hotels.The one Progol had booked, Maison Perumal, gets fantastic reviews. Another i had found yrs ago that sounded lovely, like a small inn, and within your stated budget, is Dumas Guest House.

Progol, I love your itinerary too, so I'm adopting some of it.
CaliNurse, thanks again for the links and hotels recommendations.
Now that I know where Chettinad is and what it has to offer, I'm sure it's our kind of place. We'll skip Trichy, skip the night in Mahabalipuram, and do something like this:

Chennai airport hotel 1 night after late arrival.

Car to Pondicherry via Mahabalipuram (for temple and lunch) 2 nights
Car to Tanjore 2 nights
Car to Chettinad 2 nights
Car to Madurai 2 nights
Car to Thekkady 1 night
Car to Alleppey 2 nights
Taxi to Kochin 3 nights
Fly to Goa 2 nights
Fly to Mumbai 4 nights

I might be short changing Goa, however this is where the special birthday lies. I'd rather pay for two nights of luxury than three !

I've left it late to get great properties, most of your suggested places are booked out.
DH only got his leave approved today (long service leave) so I've been hamstrung with regards to booking. The good news, our flights to Chennai are booked, so we're definitely going.

As a workaround, I'm using cancellable bookings to secure something and will monitor the status over the next six weeks.

Thanks again to all the contributors, it helps a great deal. I'll have more questions....later.