After considering a side trip to Vietnam we've decided to spend more time in China next May

So, after the obligatory 4 full days in Beijing (neither my wife nor the other couple have ever been to China), I was planning to go to Xian. Any thoughts on a) side trip or a stay in Xian, and b) where to stay there.

I'm in China on business and my translator has recommended Yunnan Province with stays in Lijiang and Dali. Next stop would be Chengdu in Sichuan with day trips to Jiuzhaigou Scenic Area and ???

In total we hoping to have about 16 days in China. Any thoughts on the intinerary, hotel suggestions outside of Beijing?

All thoughts are appreciated.

The obvious side trip from Xi'an (note correct spelling) is to the Terracotta Warriors. This is easily accomplished by direct bus from near the station, giving you as long there as you need to take.

But while organised tours are generally not to be recommended in China, there are a few locations where on-day trips are a good idea, and Xi'an is one of them, offering a total of four different routes out to a countryside littered with tombs and temples from the Tang dynasty. One of these includes the warriors and neighbouring sites of very modest interest, but the second most common route to various princely tombs is worth taking, and any hotel reception will sell it to you.

If you want to strike out on your own, then simply take a bus to the remote and leafy Xingjiao Si (temple).

The other destinations mentioned fall into the 'really obvious' category, being on major tour itineraries. It looks as though a little reading would be a good idea, and a statement of your interests and level of comfort required, and the kind of hotel you require, would help you to get more specific answers.

Peter N-H

Sorry, I should have been more specific. The whole purpose of going to Xi'an is to see the terracotta warriors. The question I should have asked is "are there enough interesting spots to spend a few days".

With respect to comfort level in accomodatoins, the answer would be a high degree.

Finally, we've begun doing our reading as well as speaking to a number of locals in Beijing and Shanghai. I wasn't aware that the other destinations were common tour stops since we're not looking at those options. I was just hoping for some input/confirmation that beyond the major Eastern cities (been to Hangzhou, Wuhan, Guangzhou) are these destinations we should be considering. Or, are we missing something? Also realizing that for 3 of the 4 in this group it will be their first trip to Asia ever.

Thanks
Paul

On accommodation in Xi'an: Several familiar foreign brands have properties there, as well as Asian luxury chains only recently moving into North America and Europe, such as Shangri-La. In general as you travel if you want the top-end you should be using these companies' properties.

Most people seem rather to rush through Xi'an, not least because it is very polluted (but then so many Chinese cities are). But yes, in addition to the Warriors there are several sights in town worth visiting, including the excellent Shaanxi History Museum, the Forest of Stelae, the mosque, and the former palace walls, as well as two pagodas. There there's the pleasure of simply walking at random around the back streets (such as are left) and other lesser temples, towers, and markets there. The Muslim quarter usually attracts a lot of attention, and then there are the day trips I already mentioned. Any adequate guide book will give you details. There's plenty to fill up four days or so, if you're more inclined to stay in one spot than be constantly on the move.

Remembering that this is the fifth (or fourth, depending on who is counting) largest country in the world, inevitably everyone misses something. But the thing that you should most avoid missing is the countryside, because that's where 80% of people live in a still largely agricultural environment, and that is 'real' China. In much of the country the horse, donkey, and water buffalo are still significant forms of motive power. The cities of the east harbour a small proportion of the population and are not by themselves representative.

The countryside of Yunnan is certainly attractive and May is a good time to visit. Lijiang is loved by many, but is a horrible fake tourist circus in my opinion (and in the opinion of the UNESCO official responsible for it, I might add). Dali is re-manufactured at the edges, and has one pizza restaurant street in the middle referred to by the locals as Yangren Jie, or 'Foreigner Street', but very few of its backpacking or tour group visitors actually take the time to wander the back streets amongst the ordinary residents going about their daily lives, and it's possible from here to visit similar towns as day trips by ordinary public bus that have yet to be 'discovered' (although it will happen any day now) such as Wei Shan. Perhaps this approach would provide a soft enough landing for the newcomers to Asia will still getting you in touch with reality as opposed to made-for-tourists China.

I'd suggest overnight train to Xi'an, which is a saver on accommodation and time, and starts to give you a feel for the real size of the country, then fly on to Kunming from there, skipping Chengdu as you don't have a great deal of time, and Chengdu's attractions are mostly out of town. Kunming is pleasant enough for a day or two before taking a bus, train (not recommended), or flight (bus still probably best--these are big aircon buses) to Dali.

You can easily (and very cheaply) buy your Kunming ticket in Xi'an when you get there, and your Xi'an rail ticket in Beijing. You should not attempt to book before reaching China.

In terms of seeing a more rural China you might also consider going to see the Wind and Rain Bridges in Guizhou Province. This is a route that is rapidly being taken over by organised tourism but is well behind Dali and Lijiang. A read of your guide book and a bit of Googling will give you pictures and further information. Needless to say in these smaller towns your big-name luxury hotels do not exist. But if you really want to get beyond the 'really' obvious this is of course concomitant.

You could also consider taking a longer way round to Xi'an, travelling first to Datong (Yungang Caves, Hanging Monastery, some very ancient temples in town, possibly the Wooden Pagoda) by bus or train; then on to Wutai Shan by bus (a bit of a circus, but a cluster of five temple-topped mountains); down through Taiyuan to Pingyao (walled city, vast mansions in the countryside round-about), and down to Xi'an from there, followed by the Dali jaunt and back to Beijing by plane from Kunming. This would give you several big-name sights but also a route spent largely in smaller places. This could be done in 16 days at a steady pace.

These are just a few random thoughts.

Peter N-H

Thank you for your suggestions Peter. I'm just beginning to plan our May trip and value your information.

With regard to the Sichuan section of your trip, Jiuzhaigou really has become a tourist slum - huge crowds, overpriced hotels and restaurants - souvenir salesmen always pulling an arm and bending an ear trying to make a sale - and noise, noise and more noise.

For, those who have at least 4 days to spare in Sichuan, a trip with a little more romance and travel adventure could maybe involve taking transport in the direction of Kangding - and getting into the Sichuanese Tibetan areas west Of Ya an. At the moment the glacier park at Hailougou is fully open - an area that nestles under the massive 7,000M Peak of Gonga Mountain. Also close to this area is the fantastic park at Laba He - with its wild animals and mountain vistas. These destinations are easily reached by road from Chengdu – Laba He taking 4 hours, and Hailougou about 6.

Because of the trouble during the spring entry to Kangding and beyond has been restricted - but there seems to be signs that things may be easing up - especially with games being over. This is good news for travelers, since the country past Kangding, in the direction of the Tibet border is incredible. Nomads, Yak, Temples, Tibetan villages and incredible scenic treasures - and with a good guide all of this can be seen far from the madding crowd. Lets hope by next year access into these areas will once again be unhindered.