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-   -   A world away in 5 weeks - India to Sri Lanka and back (https://www.fodors.com/community/asia/a-world-away-in-5-weeks-india-to-sri-lanka-and-back-1669259/)

sartoric May 13th, 2021 12:56 AM

Lovely photos Paule, as always.
Galle is certainly a place I’d like to revisit, despite the debilitating humidity.


progol May 13th, 2021 02:15 AM

annhig, lovely and poignant story about meeting the owner in the tea shop in Galle. Making such a personal connection like that makes travel so rich. I love it when that happens. I wasn’t aware of the cricket grounds outside of Galle, but then again, we don’t follow cricket, so that’s my excuse! And no, I couldn’t imagine playing in that humidity!

sartoric, thank you! We enjoyed Galle, though that humidity did me in enough to (ahem) put a damper on our experience. 😁

Greenhorn May 13th, 2021 02:39 AM

progol - this trip report is so great - I was in Sri Lanka only a few years ago - visited many of the same areas and stayed in some of the same hotels - most recently mentioned - 98 Acres and Mango House. Your photos are stunning and remind me of how much I loved visiting the country - looking forward to reading more.

progol May 16th, 2021 11:03 AM

Greenhorn, I'm so glad you're enjoying this and interesting that we visited some of the same places. 98 Acres was one of my favorites because of those views, and Mango House was a small gem in Galle.


progol May 16th, 2021 11:37 AM

Galle Fort, a world heritage site, reflects the history of the European powers that had occupied it during the last several centuries. Although first built by the Portuguese, it was extensively developed by the Dutch in the 18th Century, with the British coming in in the 19th C. In truth, it was a trading port for centuries, with its great location and protected harbor.

Galle's New Town was worth a little exploration and a reminder that it isn't simply a tourist destination. Fort Galle (the old town) is beautiful but it does get quite crowded with tourists and it was fun to see "real life" outside the walls. We stopped by the fish market and then walked through some of the streets. Yes, it was too hot for me, so after a little while, we returned, later relaxing at one of the local beaches.


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Old Dutch Hospital, now a center for shops and restaurants

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Dutch Reform Church

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Ellies everywhere!

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Coming and going through the ramparts

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Coming and going through the ramparts

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Fish market

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Fishing boats

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Fishing boats
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The New Town

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Fishing

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Bathing at the local beach

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Bathing at the local beach

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Sultry night


annhig May 16th, 2021 12:23 PM

As ever your photos are wonderful, Progol - Bill went swimming on that beach! Show him a beach and he found it hard to resist. We also did a tuk tuk ride to a beach about 6 miles away where the hotel we stayed at [the Fort Printers] had a sister hotel where we could use the beach there, plus their pool etc. That was fun for a morning then on the way back we were dropped off in the town outside the Fort and walked back so we saw the boats, the fish market etc. When it got too hot we took refuge in the Maritime Museum which was interesting but also airconditioned. Bliss!

progol May 16th, 2021 04:49 PM

So glad you’re enjoying this, annhig! Love the story about Bill swimming at the beach - we didn’t feel quite that adventurous!

Soon to come - a visit to Unawatuna Beach and an off-the-beaten track Buddhist temple.

progol May 29th, 2021 10:08 AM

Unawatuna beach is just a short drive away from Galle, and a good respite from the heat. A pleasant beach, popular with tourists and locals alike, slightly honky-tonk in feeling with its small shops and restaurants along the road behind the beach. It was a good place to cool down and spend a few hours. At one end of the beach, there is a small hill leading to a big Buddha and a stupa, and lovely views over the water.


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Stupa and Buddha temple seen from the beach

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Big Buddha!

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View from the hill

progol May 29th, 2021 10:36 AM

During the planning of our trip, I read about Yatagala Raja Maha Viharaya , a small rock temple just a few miles inland from the beach. Surprisingly, few people visit it, yet it has a very serene atmosphere and a very active monk community. And not too many stairs to the top! This left a wonderful impression on us long after we visited.


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progol May 29th, 2021 11:13 AM

And on to Colombo! I had purposely scheduled one night in Colombo to make sure we get to the famous Ministry of Crab restaurant, which gets high praises here and elsewhere. Sadly, I was more than a little ill by the time we left Galle, and the only thing I got to see was the inside of our hotel room for the rest of our visit. I was looking forward to dinner here so was very disappointed that I had to cancel - but there was no way I was going to enjoy a meal out that evening.

We stayed at Taru Villas Lake Lodge, a plain vanilla but luxury hotel in a cup-de-sac near an offshoot of Beira Lake. It gets rave reviews, and, at first, I disliked it, as it felt more like a concrete box than an inviting and relaxing place to stay. We ate dinner at the hotel, which turned out to be a surprisingly good meal. And the service was excellent, though I mostly slept or rested the day and evening away. No photos, though - I was not in the mood to take pix!

We arrived in Colombo a few days before the annual Perahera, an annual Buddhist pageant. If I had known about this beforehand, I would've tried to schedule a day here just to see this event! Elephants were brought in to the park just outside our hotel to get ready. The elephants were getting washed by their mahouts or sometimes, washing themselves! Michael got to explore the area and take photos to show me what I was missing.


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progol May 29th, 2021 11:21 AM

Across the lake, we could see the Colombo Lotus Tower, It also reflects the symbolic landmark of Sri Lanka. As of 16 September 2019, the tower is currently the tallest self-supported structure in Sri Lanka, and built as transmission tower for radio and TV.
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Just because I like palm tree shots....
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Colombo Palm Trees

And I'm posting this for no reason, except I love this image, taken right outside the hotel!
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jacketwatch May 29th, 2021 05:49 PM

More cool pics.

Thanks for posting.

Sorry you became ill and missed that restaurant. That is disappointing but glad you are ok. :).




CaliNurse May 29th, 2021 09:35 PM

These photos are terrific, Progol!! Admittedly, I need loads more time to savor them but even a quick tour is wonderful and cheering.
Train ride Ella--the tea plantations, the mists---remind me of India! Good choice, given limited time, that you skipped Munnar duringthe So India part of the trip.

progol May 30th, 2021 02:38 AM

Hi, jacketwatch! Thanks for the continued support! Yeah, I was really bummed for a while about missing the Big Meal, but now, after a year+ of the pandemic, it’s hard to imagine that I could get upset over missing a meal!

Hi, CaliNurse! Thanks for checking out this report - I imagine the first half should bring back many memories for you, too! I can’t believe. Funny, I can’t believe I started this 2 years ago! I will finish it!

And on to our last stop...Mumbai!

jacketwatch May 31st, 2021 06:48 AM

You bet! Looking f/w to the next chapter. And hey you are way ahead of the Sagrada Familia. :lol:

Hi Becca. :)

annhig Jun 1st, 2021 05:15 AM

Your post about the Perahera in Colombo reminded me about the one we never got to see in Galle, Progol. The last night that we were there we were told that it was on and took ourselves off into the town to find a good spot to see it, eventually finding a table at a restaurant nicely overlooking the road where it was clearly due to come past due to all the people who were lining up. We had a nice dinner, chatted with some people at a nearby table, and eventually decided to vacate our position to let someone else sit down so walked along the road a bit hoping to meet the procession at some point. Well we walked, and we waited and we walked again, and then we started walking back the way we'd come as it was getting late and we had an early start. I suppose that we gave up at about 11pm and there was still no sign of any procession let alone any elephants. oh well, I have the pleasure of seeing yours!

So sorry you missed the Ministry of Crab - if it's any consolation we missed it too. Not because we were ill but because the final of the T20 cricket tournament being played on the last night we were there took priority. We only got to watch it on the big screen in the hotel garden but the dinner that we had there beforehand was pretty good so we were quite happy.

Hi Becca!

progol Jun 3rd, 2021 08:02 AM

Hi, jacketwatch and annhig! I promise, shortly! Almost done, but it's taking me far too long to sort through the photos! It's our last stop so maybe it's hard for me to say goodbye!

annhig, I think your reason for missing a meal at Ministry of Crab had a lot more pleasure than I had, at least! And we did end up having a delicious crab meal in Mumbai, so all was not lost!

Soon, soon!

jacketwatch Jun 3rd, 2021 09:06 AM


Originally Posted by progol (Post 17247948)
Hi, jacketwatch and annhig! I promise, shortly! Almost done, but it's taking me far too long to sort through the photos! It's our last stop so maybe it's hard for me to say goodbye!

annhig, I think your reason for missing a meal at Ministry of Crab had a lot more pleasure than I had, at least! And we did end up having a delicious crab meal in Mumbai, so all was not lost!

Soon, soon!

no worries. Looking f/w when U have time

progol Jun 30th, 2021 11:53 AM

I'm back and I promise to finish this TR!
----------
February 18, 2019
Back to Bombay! ! Now Mumbai, of course, and we loved it! A city with a reputation for crowds, grittiness, danger, and extreme poverty, but it’s also a fascinating place, chaotic, crazy with a sense of history and culture oozing out at every turn. We were met, once again, by a wonderful driver and local agent provided by our agency, Indian Panorama (IP). We had 3 full nights there and most of 3 days. One of the days, IP arranged for a guide – Manick, a terrific guide who was great company with a wicked sense of humor (a perfect match for my husband).

It didn’t hurt, of course, that we were staying in a suite in the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower. Well, the Tower side – but we were upgraded to a suite when I mentioned that it was our 30th anniversary. Such a wonderful indulgence! We thoroughly enjoyed the pampering we received from the hotel and took advantage of most of the benefits that were offered. It was a grand finale to our trip!





progol Jun 30th, 2021 12:18 PM

Taj Mahal Tower & Suite

I was really giddy when I entered the room to find the many touches that made our stay so special! Of course, that empty red carpet on the floor DID have "Happy Anniversary" spelled out in flower petals, but I didn't get a photo quick enough before the petals were pushed aside. Still, the whole experience was wonderful.

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The words, "Happy Anniversary" were written out in flower petals on the carpet runner!
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But it's the views - overlooking the Gateway of India, the views are spectacular!
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progol Jun 30th, 2021 12:41 PM

The Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel consists of two separate buildings - the classic Palace, which was built in 1903 and was India's first luxury hotel. Wandering through the Palace really gives one a sense of another time. Of elegance and of wealth - and a reminder of India's colonial position under the British. And it was the target of the Mumbai terrorist attacks in 2008 because of its symbol of India's wealth and power. There is a simple memorial to the victims of the attack in an area just off the lobby.

Around the hotel
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Having tea
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The elevator - loved it!
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Memorial to the victims of the attack. The names of the victims are on the wall with candles for each

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A perfect way to end the trip

progol Jun 30th, 2021 01:00 PM

Like it or not, the British Colonial architecture is an amazing part of the landscape of Mumbai.

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Gateway of India

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The Taj Palace

jacketwatch Jul 1st, 2021 04:58 AM

Thank you for more great photography from a fabulous trip. The decorations provided for your 30th were amazing!

annhig Jul 1st, 2021 09:14 AM

Those are amazing photos of Mumbai, Progol. I'm beginning to think that they are the closest I'll get to India so I appreciate them all the more!

progol Jul 1st, 2021 11:23 AM

jacketwatch, the stay at the Taj Palace and Tower was a real treat - not our usual type of accommodation, but it really made the end of the trip special. I would’ve loved another day or more just to hang out and do nothing there!

annhig, thanks again! I don’t even feel I’ve done photo-justice to Mumbai - by this time, we were tired from traveling and our energy in photos wasn’t there. It’s a fascinating, chaotic city, and we enjoyed it a lot more than we expected to.

jacketwatch Jul 3rd, 2021 07:40 AM


Originally Posted by progol (Post 17257613)
jacketwatch, the stay at the Taj Palace and Tower was a real treat - not our usual type of accommodation, but it really made the end of the trip special. I would’ve loved another day or more just to hang out and do nothing there!

annhig, thanks again! I don’t even feel I’ve done photo-justice to Mumbai - by this time, we were tired from traveling and our energy in photos wasn’t there. It’s a fascinating, chaotic city, and we enjoyed it a lot more than we expected to.

A friend of ours got us a great friends and family rate at the Hyatt Grand in KL however we were so busy running around we did not really have a chance to enjoy this beautiful property. We too would like to go back someday just for the same reason you gave for the Taj!

vp_singh Jul 8th, 2021 10:07 PM

The Taj Palace is stunning, no two ways about that...but your photography brings it all the more alive!
Thanks for sharing such marvellous pics.

geetika Aug 10th, 2021 01:02 PM

progol, I know you from the Europe forums which I frequent and stumbled upon this wonderful TR by happy chance! I’m from India, from Chennai actually, and I loved reading about your experiences, your stunning pictures bring alive the sights and colors of India. And Sri Lanka too, thanks for taking us along on your journey, I enjoyed it as much as you did!

progol Aug 12th, 2021 06:49 AM

jacketwatch - the Taj was a perfect ending to our trip. And KL sounds fascinating. Maybe someday!

vpsingh - I’m so happy you enjoyed my photos! The hotel was such a wonderful treat for us - not our normal travel experience!

geetika - I’m thrilled you enjoyed the trip report and the photos! We visited with friends in Mumbai, also originally from Chennai. I wish we had time to visit that city as well, but there are just so many places to see! So glad you enjoyed our trip to Srilatha Lanka as well (though I will admit being partial to India, with its intensity and chaos, but also it’s sensual beauty).

progol Aug 12th, 2021 07:34 AM

And a bit more touring around Mumbai...

We continued to work with Indian Panorama, who arranged a guide for a day and a driver for the remainder of our stay. Our guide, Manick, was wonderful - she had wonderful knowledge of the city and a great sense of humor, and we fully enjoyed our day with her.

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We stopped by the Dhobi ghats, or open air laundry, which is still very much alive, where laundry for many of the hospitals and hotels in the city continues to be done.
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progol Dec 11th, 2024 12:43 PM

I just realized I never finished my trip report from 2019! And, having read tripplanner001 ’s recent trip report, I thought it might be high time I finish this! We ended our trip in Mumbai and really loved the city despite being a large, overwhelming city. As I noted above, we had a wonderful guide, Mannick, for one day. And on the next day, though we spent it on our own, we enjoyed the trip to Elephanta Island.

Our last full day of our trip! Hard to believe we are coming to the end. Our plan for our last full day was a trip to the Elephanta Caves, a series of cave temples dedicated to Shiva located on an island about 2 km, or an hour away, from the Mumbai Port. The ferry ride was pleasant and relaxing - but the smog was startling! Everything completely disappeared in the distance!

We were followed most of the way by sea gulls but the crows “met us” on arrival and dove into the boat for food lying around. They are scarily intelligent creatures.

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progol Dec 11th, 2024 12:47 PM

We loved the Elephanta Caves! Although much of it is in poor shape, we were truly surprised- the columns were harmonious in their space, evocative of Egyptian columns and unlike anything we’ve seen. And the images, carved out of the rock, were astounding and spectacular, some of the best representations of the gods, and profoundly moving.

The most remarkable sculpture is the Trimurti, a 3-headed relief of Shiva representing 3 different aspects: creation, protection, and destruction. They are powerful images, beautifully carved, and very impressive at 20 feet high!

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progol Dec 11th, 2024 12:49 PM

The Trimurti
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This photo should give a sense of size

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Again, another photo to give a sense of size

progol Dec 11th, 2024 12:58 PM

Cave exteriors, monkey business and return to Gateway of India
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progol Dec 11th, 2024 12:59 PM

We were fortunate that we had friends in Mumbai and visited them in the evening for dinner which certainly made the visit to Mumbai special. And, as I noted earlier, we were treated very well at the Taj since we were celebrating our 30th anniversary. It added a lot to our feel for the city. Our last day was spent relaxing at the pool (photos were posted earlier) a perfect end to the trip.

Last views:

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usrookie Jul 4th, 2025 11:49 AM


Originally Posted by progol (Post 16973132)
jacketwatch, thanks!

Perhaps one of the most remarkable sights we saw in Tamil Nadu were the clay horses of the Ayyanar shrines. Ayyanar is considered an early god who is worshipped in South India and is the guardian of small towns. Votive offerings are traditionally terra-cotta horses for Ayyanar to ride around at night! Other clay figures are offered as well, but it’s the clay horses that are most striking.



At what location(s) did you take the pictures of these clay horses? (We are in the process of planning a trip to south India and have ran into several pictures of these intriguing clay horses, but so far no luck in finding the name of the locations/cities of where these are at.)

Thanks!
Henk

progol Jul 8th, 2025 02:49 AM


Originally Posted by usrookie (Post 17664546)
At what location(s) did you take the pictures of these clay horses? (We are in the process of planning a trip to south India and have ran into several pictures of these intriguing clay horses, but so far no luck in finding the name of the locations/cities of where these are at.)

Thanks!
Henk

Wow, amazing to see this come up! The Ayyanar clay horses are really intriguing! They’re not that easy to find unless you have a driver who is familiar with the locations as most of the photos I posted were taken in a location off a road as we were driving from one place to another. There are a few at the edge of Karaikudi, Chettinad, where we were staying for a few days. But when I look at the geolocation of my photos, the data indicates they’re located in an area between Pudukkottai-Iluppur. Here’s a screenshot of the data.
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usrookie Jul 9th, 2025 07:34 AM

Thanks Paule!


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