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I will never forget the smell of coconut oil in the women’s hair at the temple of the Sacred Tooth. Thanks for the memory and your beautiful photos.
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I'm so glad you're enjoying my very belated photo report! I do remember the smell of coconut oil, too - lots of memories come up with scents!
More to come soon! We have more places to go and things to do in Kandy! ;) |
And the superb photo journey continues!
Loving it! How was the weather? Its look ok but can't be sure. Larry |
Larry,
Thank you for still following this! I'm so glad you're loving the report & photos! The weather in Sri Lanka was all over the place! Or, more to the point, every location had different weather. Very different! From very hot and humid to chilly and needing a warm jacket - surprisingly diverse for such a relatively small island. India's weather in the south was much more uniform. |
Kandy Cultural Show
I am a sucker for cultural dance and theatrical performances, even when they are considered "touristy". I'm a tourist and proud of it -- and seeing a cultural show, even if it is a "touristy" experience, is still getting introduced to dance, performance, dress and costume that I'm unfamiliar with at home. And Kandy is the cultural capital of Sri Lanka, and so, the cultural show is a popular performance to attend. There are several venues and we attended the hour-long show at the Kandy Cultural Centre. It's a plain setting, and it was filled with tourists. Our driver purchased the tickets a day earlier and I was surprised how busy it was. The seats are on one level and not on a rise, so closer is better! Our seats were decent, fortunately, even though they weren't front row seats. There was a performance by couple of fire eaters after the dance and drumming, but it was damp outside and in a parking lot -- not my favorite part of the show, but the rest was delightful! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ddefda4066.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f8c8eb846.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...717734c179.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd5bed4c86.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d729e35331.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b70643f6f3.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c63a93a6f.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...235e1493ef.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db9707f9dc.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17161b3d5b.jpg |
Kandy - Central Market
And visiting the Central Market in Kandy is a must! I always love visiting markets wherever we go, and this one was a lot of fun - active, vibrant, colorful. You can find pretty much anything you want! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4018e6560d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d63ece3ba7.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89ed7bd695.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b17213a82.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb7419c404.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc3898de86.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be2d24cdfa.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45a4f26e71.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4884036fe.jpg |
<<annhig, perhaps you can appreciate the sentiment a friend of mine had many (many!) years ago when she would set people up on blind dates, me included -- she would say, "If it works out, I take responsibility, but if it doesn't, I take NO responsibility!" >>
An excellent attitude, Progol! I must adopt it pronto . Funny that apart from seeing the Temple of the Tooth our experiences in Kandy barely overlapped. Looking at your great photos I don't remember the Temple looking much like that but we went on the evening of our arrival there when there were fewer people I think and it was getting dark. After that we went to look round the town and were accosted by someone offering to show us some shirts - the next thing we knew we were being led across the busy roads to a market area where we were shown so many shirts we were dizzy. Anyway Bill bought a classic shortsleeved white cotton shirt which I always loved to see him wear so it wasn't such a disaster as it might have been. Even though we thought that we'd paid over the odds, who cares? Then we went for supper in the iconic Queen's hotel and ended up having toasted BLTs and a pot of tea! The next day we visited the botanical gardens in the morning, rested and swam in the afternoon, and in the evening we went to a cricket match! The noise was amazing. Looking forward to see where you go next! |
Thank you for the reply.
I too love cultural dances. Our neighbor teaches the Indian style of dance know as Kathak. In fact her daughter is in the Guiness book of world records for most Kathak knee spins in one minute, a dizzying 74! Wow! |
annhig, I love your description of buying a shirt with your husband! It reminds me of so many experiences we've had in our travels, but the good news is you were able to enjoy and appreciate the results of the shopping adventure! Michael is a lot more resistant to shopping pressure anywhere, although remind me to tell you about the necklace we purchased in a shop in Morocco....actually, the story is probably in my MoroccanTR - the art of sales pressure was perfected in this particular shop!
Our experiences of Kandy might still overlap -- we did go to the Royal Botanical Gardens and I'll be getting there shortly in this report. Going to a cricket match sounds so much fun -- in many ways, that's really participating in a place, attending the events that are not geared just for tourists. I'm sure that is a special type of experience, especially since it's something that you enjoy to begin with. The best travel memories seem to come from a personal connection to people and places. jacketwatch, your neighbor's daughter sounds amazing to enter the Guinness book of records! That's an accomplishment for sure. I'm going to Google Kathak knee spins to see what that's all about now. I'm glad we both share an appreciation for the cultural dances. |
But the most amazing yet bizarre experience was seeing and hearing the thousands of fruit bats that are flying around and hanging from the trees!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c8030d163.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a24b055176.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...458ed266a4.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5f389887f.jpg |
https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com...-in-one-minute
It was actually 77! Love those flowers and those bats look rather large. :( |
Jacketwatch, thank you! I’ve been looking for a video of the record breaking spins, but can’t find on. But there are videos of her and I thought this one, with her mother, was especially sweet. How wonderful to have such lovely neighbors!
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Hmm, it looks like the above video is unavailable, at least on my device. It’s a lovely video of jacketwatch’s neighbors, mother and daughter performing an Indian dance. Lovely!
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Oh yes, those bats, progol - amazing just seeing them hanging from the trees like fruit.
So glad you went to the gardens too - I particularly loved the orchid house so those photos are a great reminder. I have my own photos somewhere but goodness knows where. jacket watch - that's a great feat by your neighbour's daughter. |
Originally Posted by annhig
(Post 17225716)
Oh yes, those bats, progol - amazing just seeing them hanging from the trees like fruit.
So glad you went to the gardens too - I particularly loved the orchid house so those photos are a great reminder. I have my own photos somewhere but goodness knows where. jacket watch - that's a great feat by your neighbour's daughter. yes she is really something isn't she. She and mom are so talented! |
annhig, We enjoyed the gardens - a nice place to be for the afternoon - but those bats were something else!
jacketwatch - I don’t know why the link doesn’t work, my guess is there’s some protection on the video. I just did a search for videos and it came up. It’s lovely - 2 talented and beautiful women! |
We left Kandy after breakfast as we had several stops planned before we took the scenic train ride to Ella.
The first stop was at Glenloch Tea Factory, on the way to Nuwara Eliya, in the very heart of Sri Lanka’s Hill Country, with gorgeous emerald-covered hills that are studded with tea plantations. The fog rolled in and out while the sun poked its face out from time to time. The tea factory visit tour was moderately interesting and enjoyable and the sales pitch was low key. Of course I loved sampling the tea at the end, and of course we bought something there, though 2 years after the fact, I can’t recall which one we bought. We took a walk through the lush grounds after the formal tour, and took photos of the workers in the tea fields. After taking a few shots, the workers we focused on came up to us and asked for money. And, though I was momentarily taken aback, we more than willingly paid. We then drove on to Nuwara Eliya, also known as “Little England”, where British residents settled in the early 1800s when the country, then known as Ceylon, was under British rule. In the mid 1800s, it became the a commercial center for tea, thanks to its climate, and continues to be a major part of Sri Lanka’s economy today. |
Glenloch Tea Factory and Tea Center
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Nuwara Eliya
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...848fbe0694.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5684dcfe5a.jpg The local lunch place - where we ate with our driver https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea5df308d1.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95ecaa301d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61110bbe4d.jpg The Grand Hotel - built in the mid-19th Century by the British governor of Ceylon at the time, "Barnes Hall" is classic "British Colonial architecture", and is a place where people still go to for High Tea. |
Chai! I'll bet they are great at tea production.
I've not met Gauri's daughter but Gauri is elegant, beautiful and classy. That hotel definitely has a European feel. Following! |
jacketwatch - there are plenty of tea plantations - the weather is ideal for tea. Interestingly, though probably not at all surprising, the majority of workers are ethnic Indian Tamils, transported by the British to work the tea fields.
If you're interested in seeing the video of your neighbors dancing, just google the daughter's name and the charming video of both should come up. The mother does look elegant and the daughter is lovely, too. Next up: the train ride! |
The Sri Lanka train ride through the hill country is considered one of the most scenic rides in the world -- and at a bargain price, too. Through Boutique Sri Lanka, the agency we worked with, I had reserved first class seats months before; but shortly before we were scheduled to leave, I was told that they were sold out. I was a little upset when I was told this, but honestly, it was not a big deal. This trip originates in Kandy, but we picked up the train in Nanu Oya, which is the start of the section of the trip which is said to be the most scenic part of the journey. It was built in 1864 to transport tea to the capital, but now, it's a very popular train ride for tourists and locals alike.
And we're off to Ella, the final stop of our journey by train. Our train arrived at the station about an hour after it was scheduled. It was somewhat cloudy when we left the station, but soon it became a misty, foggy journey through what felt, at times, like a primeval landscape, timeless without a sense of place. We saw a little of the green and lush countryside, but the surreal views were remarkable! We're all about to go on a journey now - just think of this as the Twilight Zone episode! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...588d0e273b.jpg Overview of the Nanu Oya train station https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...302a26c23d.jpg Train schedule https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a48a06a38b.jpg The train is finally here! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...850f1842bb.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e37b969ed.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc67b65e10.jpg A Hindu Temple in the countryside https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ea7ffea2e.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed46381164.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dcfdade9af.jpg Where are we? Who are they? https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25be270110.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ac1549195.jpg Somewhere in time... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db9b69e418.jpg The mist https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fcfb0e381.jpg Lots of tunnels https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81d7ff4918.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55a3f94b9d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c28a0897a0.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ebbf1c582.jpg We've arrived! And everyone is happy! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a9b2d55b3.jpg Ella, at last! |
Progol I have not seen them dance but have been I think two of her shows put on by her students. One show was sort of test which if passed would put the student close to getting professional credentials.
As you can well imagine it takes years of study. We went to another Kathak show and as I discovered there is a controversy about classic vs. shall I say non classic Kathak styles. I cant really say but all I know is I liked them both though the classic style seems to necessitate following certain steps to qualify. |
I'm sure we went to the same tea plantation, progol!
Did you stay in NE? We stayed up in the hills in a old tea planter's mansion which was extraordinary but rather remote. It was so British that you could literally order anything for breakfast including bacon and eggs and tea was served on the lawn every afternoon at about 4pm. One morning we went down to NE itself and found that there is a botanical garden behind the bus garage, which was wonderful and included a rose garden but the next day we heard that there had been an invasion of huge hornets and some people were stung really badly. If you are ever there again I can recommend the little cafe at the garden entrance. Interesting that you had problems with the train tickets. BSL said that they didn't book train tickets at all and we decided not to try to get them ourselves, which looking at your photos was clearly a mistake as it looks amazing. |
jacketwatch - I don’t know about Kathak dance, though your neighbor sounds very impressive in her accomplishments!. I imagine there’s controversy whenever there are changes to a tradition, whether in dance or other cultural expressions, but I will say that mother and daughter look like they are having fun together! I can imagine that the mom must be very proud of her daughter, too.
annhig, no, we didn’t stay in NE. I had only a limited amount of time and had considered it, but ultimately decided to stay in Ella. I was glad we were able to stop in town for the quick visit, and I enjoyed driving through that part of the hill country. I guess BSL was more amenable to buying train tickets by the time we arrived! I’m glad we were able to take the train, even though it was foggy for half the ride. |
Ella. We loved Ella, the laid-back, backpack-style town, and though I felt less of a sense of Sri Lankan culture, it was a wonderfully relaxed place to be.
We stayed 3 nights at the lovely 98 Acres, and from our large terrace, we had fantastic views of Little Adam’s Peak and the surrounding hills. Seeing the views and watching the changing weather patterns from our room was magical. The weather was comfortable – the best weather of our time in Sri Lanka – and we took several good walks. We loved the hike up Little Adam’s Peak – the views from the top were superb. We actually attempted the walk twice; though it’s not a very long hike, it is a steady walk uphill, and with some health issues, I found I couldn’t complete it the first time I tried it. I was thrilled, though, on the second day when I was able to make it to the top! We also walked to 9 Arch Bridge, also called the Bridge in the Sky, is a viaduct bridge, built by the British. While some people do like to time their walk to see the train go through, I was happy enough to see the structure and watch some of the more brazen folks hang over the side! We also arranged to visit another tea factory through 98 Acres. We preferred the earlier visit, but it was a good way to spend a couple of hours. Since we had told our driver we didn’t need him that day, we had to arrange transportation back. We had quite a ride coming back to 98 acres in a tuk-tuk, whizzing around the hilly turns! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a09874f49.jpg A hazy view of Little Adam's Peak https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10d9a139f7.jpg View from terrace at 98 Acres https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2549ae4732.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...861d92159c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d7c0135e2.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8cc33fe382.jpg Walking to Little Adam's Peak https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...276a12c36d.jpg Stairway up Little Adam's Peak https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3599388c8b.jpg At the top https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f884b4b45.jpg Ziplining - if you dare! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...335f092dbd.jpg Serenity at the top https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...093cdfd62a.jpg Views in every direction https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a376ec37a.jpg We made it! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01baa2f3cb.jpg 9 Arch Bridge https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...325f9743d6.jpg Approaching 9 Arch Bridge https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33ba2da3fc.jpg Hanging with my buds at 9 Arch bridge https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da56e83ceb.jpg |
98 Acres - a lovely place!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1901865cfb.jpg The cabins of 98 Acres, as seen from Little Adam's Peak https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e86444a54.jpg The terrace https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1295ee6702.jpg The terrace https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68a858dbdb.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...192b0955dd.jpg This is an extensive property, with paths and stairs throughout. You can call for a tuk-tuk to get around. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2381bda1aa.jpg The swimming pool - it was too cool to take a dip but we did see some folks using it |
More lovely photos, progol. Not sure I'd fancy sitting on the edge of that bridge though.
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Originally Posted by annhig
(Post 17227534)
More lovely photos, progol. Not sure I'd fancy sitting on the edge of that bridge though.
Glad you’re still enjoying the photos, annhig! Soon we’ll be in Galle so I’m sure those photos will look familiar to you. |
Your photos take me right back to Ella ! Thank you 🙏
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Originally Posted by sartoric
(Post 17227670)
Your photos take me right back to Ella ! Thank you 🙏
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And I'm back! I am trying to finish this before another few months go by....
Leaving Ella.... With a little sadness, we left our little little paradise in Ella... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...775944fc8e.jpg And on to Galle and drove on to Galle. This was the longest drive between locations, and the heat and humidity were beginning to affect me. In the north, the weather was hot but fairly dry; here, it was very humid and hot, with very changeable weather over the next few days. Galle Fort is a fortified city first founded by the Portuguese in 16th C, extensively developed by the Dutch in the 18th, and then taken over by the British at the 18th C. It's most important landmark is the preserved Dutch Fort, with its grand gateway and huge walls, surrounding the well-preserved colonial town. The architecture of the town consists of mostly Dutch-built buildings which have been turned into a busy tourist destination, with the many mansions and cottages occupied by boutique hotels, restaurants and shops. Mango House We arrived and the streets seemed very quiet, until later, when we ventured out and walked the walls. This is what is unique and very special here. But first, we had to find our hotel. We stayed in a charming small hotel, Mango House, a restored Dutch Colonial-style villa. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73906bd314.jpg Arriving in Sri Lanka https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00cbde9631.jpg Mango House entry https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...938dba696b.jpg Mango House entry hall and shared space https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...276c584d92.jpg Mango House garden https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d0ebe5aa6.jpg |
Dutch Fort Ramparts
Walking the ramparts is a delight, experiencing it with locals and tourists alike, especially in the changing light https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1483db8297.jpg Galle Lighthouse https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d35e98168.jpg Perfect wedding photography location! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8c28d2fdd.jpg Lighthouse, 2 https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...885f8f9088.jpg Meera Mosque https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...600010a62f.jpg Enjoy the walls, rain or shine! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...000049bc12.jpg Sultry night! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aef1ce00b4.jpg Making friends along the wall https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...440d564b5d.jpg Waiting for sundown -- not successfully! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...052afe7c2b.jpg Along the wall https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbe1212283.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...731c4ed303.jpg Walk the walls in any weather! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c41f0a6fd8.jpg |
Great pics. Thanks again. I see the bride wearing red. Hmmm. Is that typical there I wonder or is that a bridesmaid? Very pretty in any case. :love:
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I don’t know the significance of a red bridal dress, but I assumed it was a bride, but maybe someone else knows whether it is or not.
I’m glad you’re enjoying this still, jw! |
Originally Posted by progol
(Post 17240859)
I don’t know the significance of a red bridal dress, but I assumed it was a bride, but maybe someone else knows whether it is or not.
I’m glad you’re enjoying this still, jw! "In Sri Lankan tradition, brides wear a gold, cream, or red sari and wedding jewelry as well as a hair ornament." Clearly thus was not a sari but red seems to be ok and in Asia red is considered as a good luck, auspicious color. Tiger Woods mom who is Thai encouraged to wear red for his Sunday round which is the round when the championship is decided. So yes it seems so. |
I can almost feel the humidity in your pictures. :cool:
Our neighbour just left for Colombo yesterday to attend to a family situation. |
jw, I thought the red dress might be a wedding dress - a nice mix of tradition and modern!
ian, boy did it get humid! A wee bit too much so for my comfort, unfortunately. The last day I was totally done in. But the clouds do make dramatic images! |
<<ian, boy did it get humid! A wee bit too much so for my comfort, unfortunately. The last day I was totally done in. But the clouds do make dramatic images!>>
Yet more wonderful photos, Progok which bring back lots of memories for me. Not sure if I have mentioned this before, but there is a famous cricket ground just outside the fort in Galle. I cannot for one minute imagine how they play all day in that heat and humidity let alone for days on end. But we still loved Galle and it's one of the places in Sri Lanka I'd like to go back to. One of our most memorable encounters was when we were in a tea shop [where else in Sri Lanka has tea shops?] and the owner sat down with us and started to show us his album of pictures connected with the tsunami. What can you say? Our driver had told us about it as we drove along the south coast but this really brought home to us how devastating it was. |
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