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Dambulla caves
After our soggy rest stop in Jim’s Farm Villas, we traveled to Habarana in the Cultural Triangle, where we are staying at the Cinnamon Lodge. On our way, we stopped at the Dambulla Caves, the largest and best-preserved temple complex in Sri Lanka and a World Heritage site. With 153 Buddha statues as well as statues of royalty and gods spread over 5 painted caves, it is undoubtedly an amazing site. It is also up a large hill with many, many steps – somewhere between 364 and 800 steps, depending upon who’s counting! The steps are broad and the slope is gradual; I had made sure that, if I had to stop, I would be able to do so and not block others as I have some health issues that impede my walking, especially uphill. This is also a very popular tourist destination, and while the caves are remarkable to see, we both felt much more of the spirituality of the place in the earlier visit to the Silver Temple. We arrived just as the caves closed for a period of time, which was somewhat frustrating after the long walk uphill. But eventually, of course, we were allowed in! |
The Dambulla Caves - up the many steps and to the caves!
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9633df91f6.jpg Up, up, and up! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7c5b43f09.jpg The view from the steps as we got close to the top https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b063cda08.jpg Arriving to the top of the hill https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90fb6ba786.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...655e5e746e.jpg The entry way https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...336715971f.jpg No shoes, of course! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba206ec15c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26fda2b42a.jpg Temple interior https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f7215d85b.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4295890f2a.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...59e0ae5740.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4bfd56dbb5.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a19f08c5e.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...311285848f.jpg |
Your fabulous photos are jiggling my memory of our time there.
The devotees are extra special 🙏 |
Thanks again, sartoric! I agree, seeing the devotees remind me that there is a purpose to the place and it’s not just an amazing tourist site!
more to come... |
We stayed in Dambulla for our first 3 nights in Sri Lanka but somewhat frustratingly we never got to the eponymous caves, so i'm very grateful for your beautiful photos, Progol. Fortunately we did lots of other interesting things while we were staying there so I don't feel the disappointment so keenly, especially after seeing how long was the walk up to them! So I get the pleasure without the pain!
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annhig, I'm so glad you're enjoying traveling vicariously through my photos! Of course, there are so many places to see that it becomes impossible to see everything. And I do remember reading and using your report in making some of my travel plans and decisions!Cultural Triangle/Habarana
Cinnamon Lodge Habarana: I opted to stay here because it got decent reviews and was within the budget I set. I had considered booking Heritance Kandalama in Dambulla, as it got so many positive reviews here, but it was more than I wanted to spend. Cinnamon Lodge is a resort that caters to groups, not normally the type of place I prefer to stay, but we found it to be a comfortable place to be, conveniently located, and staff was welcoming and responsive. The meals were, in a word, overwhelming! We stayed in many places with buffets, but this was by far the largest, most elaborate, of all. As we were nowhere near a city, there was really no place to have dinner but at the lodge, and breakfast was also an involved affair! So hard to choose! We kept going up and down, wanting to sample as many dishes as possible, both western and eastern style. Between breakfast and dinner, I think we ended up with at least 6 meals a day! And, at dinner, a room dedicated to desserts! The monkeys are everywhere and are, at times, a mild nuisance, but for the most part, are part of the fabric of the place. Staff does walk around during the day and evening to disperse them from areas where tourists congregate. But they can be quite entertaining- we watched from our room as 2 monkeys were having an “intimate” moment! I won't post our X-rated monkey photos as I imagine I will get kicked off the site for inappropriate postings! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0206bf58e4.jpg One of the many lodges throughout the property https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de8d9041a0.jpg Swimming Pool https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...329c72401d.jpg A welcome elephant! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff82f5ee18.jpg Looking out from our room https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...873c82cc7a.jpg On our porch - randy monkeys (a few moments later) |
We did an “elephant safari”, traveling by Jeep to Habarana Eco Park and saw lots of elephants! Loved it! They are such amazing creatures to see and we even got pretty close to them. We really enjoyed the "safari."
I had researched this before the trip and found that this area was generally a good one to see elephants. The park most mentioned in this region is Minneriya National Park; we were taken to a nearby one which, we were told, herds of elephants were seen. I was a bit worried but as you see, I had no reason to be! We also went in the mid-afternoon to avoid the huge number of jeeps, rather than the more popular time closer to dusk. And it made a huge difference - while there were other jeeps around, it was not overwhelming, and we were able to enjoy the experience without feeling like we were in a traffic jam. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b910b4c3c5.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...937f9ba311.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d3f74a13c2.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b0597fcfb.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b6696b86f.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a62f5da670.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2250282567.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96fdaa6ea0.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0371225b09.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e54e50741.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04c4f7f01b.jpg |
And it was not only elephants - we saw a large herd of water buffalo, too.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90c60e4f13.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e88fb0ad22.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e17e064bb.jpg A beautiful crested hawk eagle https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7faa15e7b.jpg And a herd of wild jeeps! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...491f32e52e.jpg (This last photo was taken as we were ending our tour - I was very, very glad we went early!) |
Wonderful photos of the elephants, Progol. We did go to Minneriya National Park and though we did see lots of elephants frankly i think you made the right choice, as at times it was quite a scrum with all the jeeps.
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Thanks, annhig! I love the elephants, especially the mother and calf. I want to say they have so much humanity, but that's not the right word -- and honestly, they have so much more than what it takes to be human!!
We did see some jeeps, but it's nothing like you described in your trip report and we felt very fortunate to be able to experience what we did without too much interference. We lucked out with this "safari". |
Anaradhapura
We first visited Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka’s first capital, which was established around 380BC and lasted around 1300 years, only being abandoned in 993 after an invasion. Our first stop at the site was to visit the sacred Sri Maha Bodhi, the tree that was grown from a cutting from Bodhgaya. The branch is held up by a gold crutch, and is said to be the oldest historically authenticated tree in the world! It is a very important site spiritually. White is worn by pilgrims and worshippers and is a holy color. It was wonderful being around the heart of such an important spiritual place that is still so alive with worshippers. This is a huge site, but we had a driver, so there was not a problem in getting around. It was HOT, and though we were out pretty early, by early afternoon, it did catch up with us. And running barefoot, hopping from foot to foot, around the religious structures, was a challenge! Our driver, though not a formal guide, provided some overview to what we were looking at, although it is sometimes difficult to really feel a sense of the past when looking at the individual stops around the temple complex. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6ea065404.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed61a48eaa.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f08a017141.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60af5d623d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2185d9ccec.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a99bad3cc.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...430064cccd.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbb93f4aa3.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79e442cb97.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...959fa5886b.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...591d36c04c.jpg |
I'm still following as well, progol. Great pictures.
I have a real soft spot for elephants after our African adventures. |
I've been following too.
Thank you! Great TR. |
Ian and jacketwatch,
Thank you! It’s so good to know you are following my trip report! It does feel good to know that you are enjoying it and makes it worth the effort to get back to it after 2 years! Glad to know you are there! warmly, Paule |
Originally Posted by progol
(Post 17217847)
Ian and jacketwatch,
Thank you! It’s so good to know you are following my trip report! It does feel good to know that you are enjoying it and makes it worth the effort to get back to it after 2 years! Glad to know you are there! warmly, Paule |
Originally Posted by jacketwatch
(Post 17217956)
My pleasure. Your TR skillfully combines narrative and photography!
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I actually must give you some credit progol for helping to wake me out of a covid-induced travel lethargy that I had slumped into. Like most, we had to cancel a trip (to India) in 2020 and 2021 will also be a washout for us for several reasons. While I usually really enjoy researching and planning destinations, I had drifted away from the travel forums since there didn’t seem to be any point. I ignored the auto email about your post for a while but curiosity got the better of me and here I am. So thank you.
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We never made it to Anuradhapura, progol, so it's great to see your photos of it. I had imagined that it would be like Polonnaruwa but whereas that is entirely ancient, Anuradhapura is modern as well. Fascinating.
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Ian, thanks so much for your kind words! I am finally trying to finish this report after 2 years, including this past year in which I ended up canceling 3(!) trips, so I do understand the reluctance to look at travel forums and confront the lack of traveling. I've also detached for a good part of the year and am only now returning to the "fold". I don't really have any expectations of international travel in 2021, either, though I have vague plans for "someday" travel.
annhig, we really enjoyed the fact that Anurhadapura is still important for worship - this is the location of the bohdi tree, taken from the original tree at Bohdgaya, the tree where the Buddha became enlightened, so it's not a modern site but an ancient site for worship with some modern construction. The Anurhadapura complex is older than Pollunawara and is in a greater state of ruin, though it was the first one we visited so it was the one that affected us a bit more, especially since we were able to observe worshiping and other activity. By the time we got to Pollunawara, the heat affected us more! Back to Sri Lanka now!! |
Anurhadapura, continued...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6daefab8d2.jpg The beautiful brick Abhayagiri dagoba, dating back to the 1st Century BC, is one of the great structures of the ancient world! |
The impressive Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba, originally built in the 2nd century BC, although much-restored, at one time this was the biggest stupa in the world and is thought to have some of the Buddha’s relics enshrined here. It’s got a wonderful wall with a frieze of 344 elephants.
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The Kuttam Pokuna, or Twin Ponds, were likely used by the monks for bathing. The structure is beautiful and is in wonderful condition.
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Guardian figures, are placed at the entrance to temples as well as other important sites; moonstones, carved from stone, are placed at the entrance to Buddhist temples.
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The Samadhi Buddha, a 4th C statue, is considered one of the finest Buddha statues in Sri Lanka. Sitting in the Samadhi, or meditation, pose, you can feel it exude a sense of serenity and peace.
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We don’t need to go on a formal safari to see wildlife - it’s everywhere we go!
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Thanks again for the photos of Anurhadapura, Progol. That buddha is as you say very serene.
Also great photos of the "wildlife". Not having been to the Indian subcontinent before we were amazed by the variety of life on the roads and verges, and the complete lack of rules governing what it did yet the number of accidents we saw was very small. |
Great reporting and fab pics.... sadly we cancelled our nov, 2020 Indian trip and now i think I will have to cancel our oct/nov/ dec 2021 SEA trip as Thailand is slow to reopen, which is fine for safety reasons.
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annhig, glad you're still enjoying the TR! Between Anurhadapura and Polonnaruwa, I will try to be circumspect about photos of ancient ruins -- and posting tongue twisters! The wildlife was fun to spot when it was least expected! Of course, seeing the elephants were a treat, but I got a kick out of seeing the less "exotic" animals elsewhere. Monkeys, of course, are EVERYWHERE!
rhkkmk, So nice to see you here! I'm sorry about your travel cancellations, both past and possibly upcoming. Having canceled 3 big trips in 2020, I've held off making any reservations at all for now, though I've got 2 trips already sketched out whenever we can go again. I'm not that hopeful about 2021 for international travel, but hoping 2022 will keep us busy! Again, more to come soon! |
Arriving at Polonnaruwa, the ancient city that became the capital in the 11th Century.
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Love these!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de810bc2bb.jpg Aren't they beautiful? https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ec99ea395.jpg |
Buddhas and Stupas
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1703de930.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efca7a34ab.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f17878458.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05b9a8c5bc.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a634e251a.jpg Banyan tree with Stupa |
annhig, glad you're still enjoying the TR! Between Anurhadapura and Polonnaruwa, I will try to be circumspect about photos of ancient ruins -- and posting tongue twisters! The wildlife was fun to spot when it was least expected! Of course, seeing the elephants were a treat, but I got a kick out of seeing the less "exotic" animals elsewhere. Monkeys, of course, are EVERYWHERE!
Yes, i don't think I've ever seen so many, Progol. We were pleased that we had observed the warning in our hotel bedroom not to open the french windows - they would have been in like a shot. and thanks for the photos of Polonnaruwa which truth to tell I remember chiefly because it was our first full day in Sri Lanka and it was tremendously hot. So out sightseeing consisted mainly of being driven in our air-conditioned vehicle, getting out for a quick look round, then getting back in and driving on a bit further. I also remember a museum I think and unfortunately we didn't meet any school children in their uniforms. We met some in other places thought and were struck by how neat and clean they were, wearing their uniforms with far more pride than most UK school kids wear theirs. As for the names, I recommend watching cricket - Sri Lankan names posed few problems for us, solely because we were used to reading and hearing them in numerous cricket matches. I'm hoping the same will hold true when - if - I ever get to India! |
annhig,
Thank you for continuing to follow this! I'm glad you enjoyed the Pollonuwara photos - truthfully, by that second day, we were also feeling a bit blitzed from the heat, and 2 days of the ancient sites were starting to blur a bit. While I do appreciate the ruins and am glad I saw them, it was tiring in the heat. We didn't see the museum, though. I love your description of getting comfortable with names because of watching the cricket matches! But the only names that were truly challenging was getting the names of the 2 ancient sites down! Anurhadapura and Pollonuwara. It's the spelling that gets me every time! I'm trying to get back on track and will work on the next bit of the TR very shortly! |
From Habarana, we traveled on to Kandy, making a stop at a small batik factory. The work was lovely, and I was sorely tempted to buy some of the lovely outfits that were being draped around me, but I resisted temptation! We did buy a pillow for our living room, though! There was no real pressure to buy, though I always feel bad when I leave without getting anything.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37bb0454a4.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3dea767451.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49e069e318.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d21fc1ba08.jpg I love her smile! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47341b18c7.jpg Lovely, isn't it? On the road again, passing a Hindhu temple on the way to Kandy https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71671941f0.jpg |
In Kandy, we stayed at the Theva Residency, located in the hills above Kandy. This is a lovely boutique hotel, with nice views over the city. I remember reading about it in annhig's trip report and then read other glowing reviews, and will say that they are well deserved!
Never one to do reinvent the wheel, I quote myself from my TA review: "We stayed at the Theva Residency in a deluxe double room for 2 nights in February which was the right amount of time for exploring Kandy. The hotel is situated in the hills above the city, so requires a driver to come and go. It is a lovely place to escape the hectic city and relax. We received a warm welcome and enjoyed the comfort of our room with excellent amenities. We had breakfast and dinner there both nights, and we had some of the best food of our entire trip. The dining room is also beautifully sited, with its glass windows overlooking the views and the lovely infinity pool. Unfortunately, it was rainy and too cool for swimming when we visited. However, we took advantage of the wonderful sauna on the hotel’s premises, and that was great! We had a lovely terrace overlooking the town. Slingback cloth chairs were provided, which we brought into the room when it rained. As we didn’t didn’t have any other chairs in the room, we hoped this would work, but they really are not that comfy. It would’ve been nice to have a sitting area in the room as there was enough space in front of the glass. Do know that this is a residential area just outside the downtown so the view will include telephone wires and other signs of urban life. We did hear dogs barking during the night. Overall, the warm welcome, the lovely amenities and good food, and great views make this an excellent place to stay in Kandy." https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dc9099fd1.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...801140776f.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dfdd8947d9.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e61d92eb7.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b6b090225.jpg Good breakfasts and dinners! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c13ad02b57.jpg |
oh the responsibility of recommending somewhere, progol! Particularly a hotel where a bum steer could really spoil someone's stay. So I am so very glad that you enjoyed the Theva Residence as much as we did. And more lovely photos. I also like buying things like fabric and cushion covers as presents/souvenirs as they take up so little room in the luggage!
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annhig, perhaps you can appreciate the sentiment a friend of mine had many (many!) years ago when she would set people up on blind dates, me included -- she would say, "If it works out, I take responsibility, but if it doesn't, I take NO responsibility!" And you can apply that attitude toward hotel recommendations!! And people do need to take responsibility for their own choices! I would never accept a recommendation without doing my own research as everyone's taste is different. But I did remember your description, and it sounded good, so at least you have fan who appreciates your taste! We did enjoy the hotel and actually found the hotel meals very satisfying, too.
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Kandy, continued....The Sacred Temple of the ToothBut the reason why most people visit Kandy, and the reason we did, too, was to see the Sacred Temple of the Tooth, a World Heritage Center and one of the most important temples in Sri Lanka. The relic, of course, is the Buddha’s tooth, and it’s housed in the Royal Palace Complex of the former Kingdom of Kandy.
Our driver picks us up from the hotel and we arrive sometime in the mid-morning, though we’re not ones to move quickly! There are lots of worshippers and tourists, but the crowds move relatively quickly up the several flights of stairs and passed the location of the shrine containing the tooth. The doors to the shrine containing the tooth are closed as we pass by, and they’re only open during certain times of the day. One can try to time their visit with a puja, a devotional ceremony, but for our own interests, just experiencing the presence of the relic was fine. There is more than enough of a feeling of devotion with a horn player and drum player! After passing the main shrine, we follow the crowd and enter another part of the Temple, which is filled with worshippers. We then found ourselves outdoors, where there are more structures, including the lovely wooden Audience Hall. And we discovered Raja the elephant – that is, we visited the small museum which contains the body of the Sri Lanka tusker elephant, Raja, that had participated in the annual festival at the Temple of the Tooth for 50 years, and upon its death at 75, was considered a national treasure! It’s quite remarkable! After this visit, we decided to see if we could “sneak” back in to the main part of the temple to see if we could actually SEE the tooth – although it is encased in a golden case in the shape of an egg, so the actual tooth is never exposed. And we managed to find our way back and, amazingly, the doors were open and we got a quick glimpse of the golden case! Our visit was complete! |
The Sacred Temple of the Tooth
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7ec608749e.jpg Approaching the temple complex https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fef98a683.jpg Worshippers on their way to the temple entrance https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef72d37515.jpg Purchasing offerings https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...221aa8a871.jpg Entranceway https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a687eef43.jpg Detail in the entranceway https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d8c654095.jpg Detail in the entranceway https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee61248b8d.jpg In the Temple https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7d419151d.jpg And there are a lot of people! Going from the lower floor to the upper floor where the actual Sacred Tooth shrine is located https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d60027687.jpg Worshippers https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...616cd4d843.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...963659a220.jpg Another part of the temple https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89e90e0f55.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af01ffcb0b.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fef4f4c0e7.jpg Audience Hall https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4e15986898.jpg Raja the elephant https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b84cf96b2.jpg The Sacred Relic is inside! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a85c111d0.jpg Overview of complex https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99f204f177.jpg Fountain outside complex |
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