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A world away in 5 weeks - India to Sri Lanka and back
It’s now several months since we returned from our 5-week trip to South India and Sri Lanka, and I thought I would finally (try!) do a brief report on the trip!
This was a post-retirement/30thwedding anniversary trip and we traveled to South India (Tamil Nadu & Kerala) for 16 nights, Sri Lanka for 15 nights, then returned to Mumbai for 3 nights and left late on the night of the 4thevening. I worked with an agency in each country, which helped with the itinerary and provided drivers, and guides (in India). In India, I worked with Tim at Indian Panorama, and Chamila at Boutique Sri Lanka. Both were excellent and I will give the nod to Indian Panorama for its incredibly stellar staff and service. I can’t praise them highly enough. Truly. Vijay, our driver in South India, looked after us like we were his family; and Sindhu, the office manager, made everything come together perfectly. We celebrated our 30thanniversary on this trip, and thanks to them, we had several wonderful celebrations. A driver met us at each of the airports. And In India, a company agent also met us at the major cities and accompanied us to the hotels, helping smooth the arrival and checking in process. I can’t tell you how helpful that is when you’re tired and somewhat befuddled upon arrival! We flew British Airways (partly paid by points) from Newark to Chennai, with stopover in London. We arrived at 5:30 in the morning, so stayed briefly in a nice hotel just outside of the airport to nap and wash for a few hours. The itinerary: South India/Tamil Nadu Jan 18 -Arrive Chennai, 5:30am, sleep in Trident Hotel for a few hours Jan 18/19 – Pondicherry/Villa Shanti (2nights) Jan 20/21 - Kumbakonam - Mantra Koodam (2 nights) Jan 22/23 - Tanjore - Ideal River resort (2 nights) Jan 24/25 - Chettinad - Saratha Villas (2 nights) Jan 26/27 - Madurai - Marriott Madurai (2 nights) South India/Kerala Jan 28 - Kanjirapally - Kalaketty Estate (1 night) Jan 29/30 - Alleppey - Emerald Isle (2 nights) Jan 31/Feb 2 - Cochin - Old Harbour house (3 nights). Sri Lanka Feb 3 – Negombo/Villa Kupuru (1 night) Feb 4/5 - Matale - Jim’s Farm Villa (2 nights) Feb 6/7/8 Habanara - Cinnamon Lodge (3 nights) Feb 9/10 - Kandy - Theva residency (2 nights) Feb 14/15/16 - Galle - Mango House (3 nights) Feb 17 - Colombo - Taru Villas (1 night) Mumbai Feb 18/19/20 – Mumbai (3 nights) Depart home Feb 22 @ 2:15am ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ In retrospect, it was an amazing trip, although the trip began less than ideally, with M getting the flu a week before we were to leave. I had almost rescheduled our start date, but our doctor gave him meds and said that it would be safe for him to travel. I then caught a bad cold and was coughing mercilessly for days before leaving, although fortunately, I managed to contain it for the trip. In truth, we were both very tired for much of the trip, and I didn’t take notes for the entire time, a first for me, so this is all from memory – and looking at my many photos. I’ll post as many as possible – I think my photos can “report” this trip better than my words can right now. We few British Airways, Premium Economy. Most of the flights were comfortable enough, and we managed to even take a nap at Heathrow airport. For those who don’t know, transiting from Heathrow is a bit cumbersome because you have to go through security again and they are very strict about liquids! They provide 2 little plastic bags for all the liquids and anything that doesn’t fit gets thrown away – that includes lots of things, including makeup (I don’t use), toothpaste and other squeeze-type items. All electronic devices need to be pulled out and checked. If they have any concerns, you’ll get pulled out of line and your baggage will be gone through carefully! They are serious! We arrived at Chennai airport at 5:35am, and surprisingly, breezed through immigration. I had anticipated a long line – so it may’ve been our arrival at the early hour, but we had no problem whatsoever. We were met by our Indian Panorama agent and driver, who immediately took charge and got us to our first hotel stop, The Trident Hotel, a short drive from the airport. We used it as a rest stop but didn’t stay the night. It was great as a stopover, as it was a wonderful hotel, great staff, with a great buffet breakfast. A word here about Indian Panorama – they were amazing. Coordination could not have been better and the transitions were flawless; we were met at all major stops by an agent who took over the checking in process as well as our 2 flights, first when we were going to Sri Lanka and again, when we left Mumbai. And of course, we had our wonderful driver, Vijay, accompanying us. On the way to Pondicherry/Puducherry We left the Trident Hotel, and our first stop was the fascinating Mahabalipuram, a group of rock cut temples from the 7th& 8thcenturies, overlooking the Bay of Bengal. Some have suggested that this site is not so worthwhile, as it is not in great shape, but we really enjoyed it. We were there on the weekend and it was filled with families, giving it a lot of life and energy. In contrast to the large temple complexes that we were to see later, this is much older and more rustic, and of course, not a living temple (or actively used for worship). |
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Photos are not in any particular order but if you have questions, please ask!
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A great start to your trip report and excellent photos. I am following along just in case I can fit in a trip to India sometime soon.
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Thanks, crellston! I’ll make every effort to continue this report. And sooner than later, too! |
I'm enjoying your report and photos and will follow along on your trip.
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Thanks, Kathie, I’m glad you’re enjoying this. I will try to stay on top of posting! Paule |
A belated happy anniversary and happy retirement. Following along with interest as well. Having visited Sri Lanka but still skittish about India, I’m interested in your comparisons of the two. |
Thank you Progol for posting this!!! I admire your energy!
Darn, I thought could skip India for a few years, but now seeing your photos, and mention of its wonderful people, makes me think I'll be back sooner rather than later. Please keep the words, pictures and memories coming!!! |
Thank you tripplanner and CaliNurse! tp, if I were to return, it would be to India (though no plans at the moment), as generally, I find the people warmer and the places & culture (s) fascinating. Sri Lanka, though, has much in a small area, so in one trip, it’s easier to get a wide variety of experiences. CaliNurse, I hardly have the energy - but too much time on my hands! It’s either finally doing a trip report — or plan yet more trips! ;) |
"It’s either finally doing a trip report — or plan yet more trips! “ Much as I love trip reports - plan the trips - always!
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crellston, I have several lifetimes of trips planned! No lack of trips in my dreams....it’s the actualizing of them all that may be a bit lacking! |
Pondicherry/Puducherry & Villa Shanti
We then drove to Pondicherry/Puducherry, commonly known as Pondy, and stayed in the very stylish Villa Shanti. Pondicherry was under French rule until 1954, and while it does have the colonial flavor in its architecture, I wouldn’t contrast it to Europe at all. It does have a fun vibe, with the occasional new age, not surprising because of its nearness to Auroville and the Sri Aurobindo Ashram (didn’t visit). I really liked the Villa Shanti. We stayed in one of the 2 suites, the Executive Suite, and it was amazing! My Manhattan apartment could’ve fit in it twice over! The service was excellent, breakfasts were really good – prepared to order, and good coffee, too! It’s got a good reputation for its restaurant, and we ate dinner there one night – we thought it good, but not great, and were a little disappointed as the shrimp were a bit mealy. But the frozen strawberry drink was fantastic! The days are a bit of a blur as we were still dealing with jet lag and illness. We took it relatively easy those first few days, but were able to include a good amount of sightseeing. Vijay took us to 2 very small temples a short drive from Pondy. The first, a very small temple, the Prithiyankara Devi Kali Temple, was one of the most remarkable temples I have ever seen. Imagine the most garishly-colored figures, that are bizarre and frightening in a comic-like style. There were no tourists so we were amazed by the experience. Of course, you’re not supposed to take photos inside, though Michael took a shot before he realized that. The second temple was somewhat larger, but not yet the large complexes that we are to see later in Tamil Nadu. After the drive, Michael rested at the hotel while I went out for a while, and shopped a bit at Anokhi, one of the lovely shops known for its textiles. I got a lovely scarf that became my signature piece for the rest of the trip! Michael and I also strolled the town, taking it fairly easy, enjoying the busy waterfront, and wandering past some of the colonial architecture. We had a really good meal at a busy local place – if I can figure out which one it is, I’ll note it here later. Vijay also picked us up in the late afternoon and took us to the large food market. |
Originally Posted by progol
(Post 16950560)
It’s now several months since we returned from our 5-week trip to South India and Sri Lanka, and I thought I would finally (try!) do a brief report on the trip!
This was a post-retirement/30thwedding anniversary trip and we traveled to South India (Tamil Nadu & Kerala) for 16 nights, Sri Lanka for 15 nights, then returned to Mumbai for 3 nights and left late on the night of the 4thevening. I worked with an agency in each country, which helped with the itinerary and provided drivers, and guides (in India). In India, I worked with Tim at Indian Panorama, and Chamila at Boutique Sri Lanka. Both were excellent and I will give the nod to Indian Panorama for its incredibly stellar staff and service. I can’t praise them highly enough. Truly. Vijay, our driver in South India, looked after us like we were his family; and Sindhu, the office manager, made everything come together perfectly. We celebrated our 30thanniversary on this trip, and thanks to them, we had several wonderful celebrations. A driver met us at each of the airports. And In India, a company agent also met us at the major cities and accompanied us to the hotels, helping smooth the arrival and checking in process. I can’t tell you how helpful that is when you’re tired and somewhat befuddled upon arrival! We flew British Airways (partly paid by points) from Newark to Chennai, with stopover in London. We arrived at 5:30 in the morning, so stayed briefly in a nice hotel just outside of the airport to nap and wash for a few hours. The itinerary: South India/Tamil Nadu Jan 18 -Arrive Chennai, 5:30am, sleep in Trident Hotel for a few hours Jan 18/19 – Pondicherry/Villa Shanti (2nights) Jan 20/21 - Kumbakonam - Mantra Koodam (2 nights) Jan 22/23 - Tanjore - Ideal River resort (2 nights) Jan 24/25 - Chettinad - Saratha Villas (2 nights) Jan 26/27 - Madurai - Marriott Madurai (2 nights) South India/Kerala Jan 28 - Kanjirapally - Kalaketty Estate (1 night) Jan 29/30 - Alleppey - Emerald Isle (2 nights) Jan 31/Feb 2 - Cochin - Old Harbour house (3 nights). Sri Lanka Feb 3 – Negombo/Villa Kupuru (1 night) Feb 4/5 - Matale - Jim’s Farm Villa (2 nights) Feb 6/7/8 Habanara - Cinnamon Lodge (3 nights) Feb 9/10 - Kandy - Theva residency (2 nights) Feb 14/15/16 - Galle - Mango House (3 nights) Feb 17 - Colombo - Taru Villas (1 night) Mumbai Feb 18/19/20 – Mumbai (3 nights) Depart home Feb 22 @ 2:15am ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ In retrospect, it was an amazing trip, although the trip began less than ideally, with M getting the flu a week before we were to leave. I had almost rescheduled our start date, but our doctor gave him meds and said that it would be safe for him to travel. I then caught a bad cold and was coughing mercilessly for days before leaving, although fortunately, I managed to contain it for the trip. In truth, we were both very tired for much of the trip, and I didn’t take notes for the entire time, a first for me, so this is all from memory – and looking at my many photos. I’ll post as many as possible – I think my photos can “report” this trip better than my words can right now. We few British Airways, Premium Economy. Most of the flights were comfortable enough, and we managed to even take a nap at Heathrow airport. For those who don’t know, transiting from Heathrow is a bit cumbersome because you have to go through security again and they are very strict about liquids! They provide 2 little plastic bags for all the liquids and anything that doesn’t fit gets thrown away – that includes lots of things, including makeup (I don’t use), toothpaste and other squeeze-type items. All electronic devices need to be pulled out and checked. If they have any concerns, you’ll get pulled out of line and your baggage will be gone through carefully! They are serious! We arrived at Chennai airport at 5:35am, and surprisingly, breezed through immigration. I had anticipated a long line – so it may’ve been our arrival at the early hour, but we had no problem whatsoever. We were met by our Indian Panorama agent and driver, who immediately took charge and got us to our first hotel stop, The Trident Hotel, a short drive from the airport. We used it as a rest stop but didn’t stay the night. It was great as a stopover, as it was a wonderful hotel, great staff, with a great buffet breakfast. A word here about Indian Panorama – they were amazing. Coordination could not have been better and the transitions were flawless; we were met at all major stops by an agent who took over the checking in process as well as our 2 flights, first when we were going to Sri Lanka and again, when we left Mumbai. And of course, we had our wonderful driver, Vijay, accompanying us. On the way to Pondicherry/Puducherry We left the Trident Hotel, and our first stop was the fascinating Mahabalipuram, a group of rock cut temples from the 7th& 8thcenturies, overlooking the Bay of Bengal. Some have suggested that this site is not so worthwhile, as it is not in great shape, but we really enjoyed it. We were there on the weekend and it was filled with families, giving it a lot of life and energy. In contrast to the large temple complexes that we were to see later, this is much older and more rustic, and of course, not a living temple (or actively used for worship). |
Stephanie, it’s such a gift to be able to do this! I hope you get the chance — it’s certainly doable! |
Villa Shanti - suite and the frozen strawberry drink. Delicious!
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5bab26642.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4778bdb6.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7809b32b0.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1a3ac566.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfec5a4ea.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...663faf608.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e14ce6a8.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c4cd17fe.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...687ce1f60.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e0d73ef9.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2d049751.jpeg 2nd temple visited - not sure of the name https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...507fa0567.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79f19acbf.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...724ba4469.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10ad8ec81.jpeg From the Road - a view of a Kali figure https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fab3e9db.jpeg |
Pondy - around town and the waterfront https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1c5e8208.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cac2d77f2.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d02b93130.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0687b649.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b8c661d6.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...209b04731.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf8462ed4.jpeg |
I'm following along as well, progol. I just started looking at India as a post retirement trip in 2020, so the timing of your report is perfect.
Ian |
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I’m onboard too ! This will prompt some memories for me, your photos are fabulous, thanks for posting. |
Ian, congratulations! I didn’t see you at first, as you snuck in quietly between the waterfront and the market! sartoric, nice to see you! I’m sure you’ll recognize a few places here and there, too! |
Your photos are fantastic. I’m really digging all the colors of India. |
Hi, tp,
I'm thrilled that you're enjoying the photos! India is an incredible immersion into sensory overload, and is as colorful as it can be. It's an amazing place to visit. Paule |
Just found this progol and so glad I did - your photos are gorgeous, and your itinerary in Southern India very much like one I would like to do.
And I am particularly happy to have seen the pic of you eating the frozen strawberry dessert as now I know what you look like! |
Hi, annhig! Glad you’re enjoying this! I do promise more photos to come, too - and even more of me, I suspect, as my husband took a few! |
Signing on. I liked Mamallapuram but I saw it before the tsunami. Not all that excited by Pondy. I found Sri Lanka peaceful after India, with some good scenery, but India was more interesting. |
Welcome, thursdaysd! I didn't expect to like Mammalapuram, but we both enjoyed it a lot. Maybe the lower expectations made it easier for us.
<<I found Sri Lanka peaceful after India, with some good scenery, but India was more interesting.>> An interesting distinction and, while it's a generalization, it has truth to it. India, of course, is huge, so each region has a different flavor. While Tamil Nadu can feel very intense at times, Kerala, or at least the parts that we saw, were much gentler. Sri Lanka is small relative to India, so it's easier to have a broad range of experiences in a short time. But I do agree completely that India is more interesting. I'd definitely return to India again if I get a chance, and while we enjoyed our trip to Sri Lanka, I don't have any itch to return. |
Touring Tamil Nadu and tons of temples! From Pondicherry, we drove to Kumbakonam, and began our exploration of the remarkable Chola temples that were built mostly between the 11th & 12 centuries during the Chola Empire. The image of the Tamil Nadu temple with its grand towers intrigued me when I first saw photos of them. And, after our foray into Tamil Nadu, I’d say that they are remarkable structures, filled with vitality, as many are “living” temples, filled with worshipers as well as tourists. First, one enters through the large gopuram (tower), a gateway into a large complex, consisting of a huge, open courtyard with multiple temples and shrines. Every corner is filled with people! The many shrines within the space is broken up by aisles, formed by columns, beautifully carved, and under gorgeous painted ceilings. Of course, even before you enter, shoes must be checked. One walks barefoot (though some places are flexible about socks). And it is does get very hot! Photography is generally allowed only in the courtyard/open air and outside the entryway, but not once you enter the actual temples or shrines. Though in Madurai, we even had to check our phones before we entered the complex! Over the course of about a week, we visited about half a dozen or more of these remarkable sites. It was a fascinating exposure, though I must admit to having gotten a bit of temple overload by the time we left Tamil Nadu. The touring was tiring, and though we were both feeling a bit better as the trip continued, fatigue followed us for much of the first half of it. We visited 3 temples that first day! Our guide was arranged for the day we were leaving Pondicherry, so we had planned to see the temples near Kumbakonam with her, although we then added another temple along the way. The first temple we visited was Chidambaram, and we loved it. This is the Nataraja temple, or the temple of the dancing Shiva. Perhaps it touched us because it was the first of the large Chola temples that we visited, or perhaps because it was not quite as busy as some of the later ones, but it had a wonderful vitality and we really enjoyed our visit. We then visited the lovely Airavateswara temple in Darasuram, with its delightful entryway carved in the shape of a chariot and remnants of paintings on the walls of the temple. Having our lovely guide, Abidamah, really enhanced the experience, too. I was also very pleased to have 2 female guides on our trip. Finally, we visited the Gangaikondacholapuram, which means ‘the City of the King who Conquered the Ganga’, and had some of the most stunning carvings of any temple we visited. But try to avoid visiting 3 Chola temples in one day! A few extra stops, including a stop at a silk weaving shop, part of a collective of an extended family of weavers who settled in this area a number of generations ago. I did end up buying a scarf, of course! Finally, we arrive at Mantra Koodam, a charming resort that was recently refurbished by CGH Earth, our home for the next 2 nights. You wouldn’t be at all surprised, I’m sure, to read that we took it easy the next day. We did take a drive to look at 2 bronze casting foundries. This region is the center for the well-known Chola bronze sculptures. And the rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing at the resort, where we each had Ayurvedic massages - necessary after the last few days! |
Chidambaram https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...846f1a25c.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8318e3b4.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37ba683cd.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8ff80a11.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...32b0142ab.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2be2c23b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...069791ba0.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5523a41c1.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b8163dcbd.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c60828c25.jpeg Photo, please! At least I'm wearing my signature scarf! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3fbe7fae9.jpeg |
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Another from Chidambaram |
Shri Airvatesvara Temple (Dharasuram) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbfa85d9c.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...524c4bc3c.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db80d0f97.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed1741c6e.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f28127fde.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d0f42b75.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4507fb7f9.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7842af5f.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b872fee42.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b495ce54.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2201dd8b9.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b24cf49a.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a50ec2e6.jpeg |
I'm very much. enjoying your photos!
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Thank you, Kathie! That means a lot to me! I know you have plenty of wonderful photography around you! |
Don’t you just love these? I’m sure there are a lot of folks who can identify with this! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...994686cba.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66bc83ac8.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8ebcbee3.jpeg |
What lovely photos of those two children!
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Thanks, Kathie! I just loved these pix - I felt for the little boy, who clearly did NOT want the little girl (sister?) ruin his fun!
More photos to follow shortly! |
And our visit to Gangaikonda Cholapuram....this temple had some of the most stunning carvings that we saw anywhere
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And I thought I saw a lot of temples! I admire your stamina. |
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