4 wonderful solo weeks in South Korea
 

Finally! -- a start to my promised trip report on South Korea. I plan to summarize my final itinerary, comment on what I enjoyed least and most, recap my planning activities, and then – because South Korea gets so little coverage on Fodor’s -- give you a relatively detailed account of my time. So consider yourselves warned: This TR will be LONG (feel free to skim! :-) ) and it will take me a while to complete it. Even so, your questions and comments are welcome at any point!

<b>Context</b>: As some of you know, I’m a woman with reasonably extensive experience as a solo, independent traveler. This was my first visit to Korea and my third trip to the Orient. (I previously visited Japan for 3 weeks and northern China for 4 weeks.) Wherever I travel, I seek to maximize the diversity of the experiences I will likely have during my trip. My tastes are fairly eclectic, but not entirely indiscriminate: I typically enjoy art, architecture, museums, religious sanctuaries, parks and gardens, natural scenery, castles and fortresses, markets (for their atmosphere, not for shopping), picturesque villages, good food and wine, folk traditions, and the chance to see and experience other parts of the world. I generally don’t seek opportunities to relax (relying on meals and time in transit for that) or shop (except for buying gifts for family and friends).

<b>Itnerary: </b> This trip took place in May of 2014. My final itinerary was:

- Day 0-1: Leave the U.S.; reach my hotel in Seoul by early evening; begin exploring
- Days 2 – 5: Explore Seoul (with more time in Seoul at the end of my trip); day trips to Yongin and Suwon
- Day 6: First part of day in Seoul; move on to Daejeon
- Day 7: Day trip from Daejeon to Buyeo
- Day 8: Day trip from Daejeon to Gongju; move on to Gwangju
- Days 9 - 11: Gwangju and day trips to Gochang, Soswaewon, Songgwangsa, and Yulpo/Boseong
- Day 12: Move on to Seogwipo (on Jeju Island)
- Days 13 – 14: Explore Jeju Island
- Day 15: Visit Jeju City and move on to Busan
- Days 16 – 18: Explore Busan and Tongdosa
- Day 19: Move on to Haeinsa for an overnight templestay
- Day 20: Finish seeing Haeinsa; visit Daegu and Jikjisa; move on to Gyeongju
- Days 21 – 22: Explore Gyeongju and visit Seokguram and Bulguksa
- Day 23: Move on to Andong; visit Hahoe
- Day 24: Explore Andong
- Day 25: Move on to Yeongju; visit Buseoksa
- Day 26: Return to, and explore more of, Seoul
- Days 27 - 28: Explore Seoul
- Day 29: Return to U.S.

<b>Likes and Dislikes: </b>

What I liked <b>least</b>:

- In many areas, seemingly incessant and frankly unnecessary, irritating noises. Music blaring, people shouting, cartoon-like commercials and announcements (SO irksome, whether auditory or visual!), honking cars, sounds of hacking and spitting, etc., all (of course) against the “usual” street noises one encounteres anywhere. I remember one hike when -- just as I was thinking about how nice it was to experience a few moments of silence, broken only by an occasional bird call or the rustle of the leaves as a breeze caught them -- my thoughts were interrupted by blaring karyoke from a radio somebody was carrying. Seriously? And if someone is going to share his/her music with everyone else, does it really need to be Korean-dubbed disco music, decades-old pop music, or “White Christmas” (in May)?!? Sigh.

- Litter and the lack of trash cans/disposal options. One of my first impressions of Seoul was that it had a surprising amount of litter. The next morning, when I wanted to dispose of a take-out coffee cup, I realized that part of the problem is that it is almost impossible to locate a disposal option. Even the areas around vending machines – which were almost as common in Seoul as in Japan – didn’t necessarily have any trash receptacles. If I asked someone where to put my trash, s/he would inevitably simply take it from me, which I must admit felt like an incredible imposition, especially the time I asked a police officer. :-( I came to the conclusion – which could easily be mistaken -- that at least in Seoul, garbage is picked up early in the morning and people simply leave their trash at the curb. The problem didn’t seem quite so prevalent outside of Seoul, and I’m glad to report that when I did find trash receptables, they were almost always designed to separate recyclables from trash.

- The seeming absence of consensually acknowledged rules of the road other than stopping at a red light, so that just about every time I took a taxi, it was with the sense – no, make that the certain knowledge!!! – that I was risking my life. Nonetheless, I only saw one accident, and neither of the two cars involved were taxis.

- The VERY long waits to cross streets. It seemed that at almost every intersection, each distinct approach had it’s own, separate light. And each red light was long enough that some drivers (including some of my crazy taxi drivers) literally turned their cars off. A wait of up to 4 minutes for a green light for pedestrian crossings was not uncommon, causing me uncommon frustration.

- some truly awful coffee. I mean REALLY bad. I thought I could endure just about any cup of coffee if I felt the need for caffeine. I was SO wrong! I did find a number of decent coffee shops (Starbuck’s franchises or those of many of its competitors) in major cities, but many of these shops were open for afternoon or evening business only. (?!?) Finding a good – or even just barely decent -- cup of coffee in the morning was not always an easy task, particularly outside of Seoul or Busan.

- the nearly complete absence of options to enjoy a glass of wine or beer when not also eating a meal. Wine was extremely hard to find and was seriously overpriced. And although it seemed that one could buy beer at any 24-hr convenience store, public places where Koreans relax over a beer in the absence of a meal seemed essentially non-existent. (Beer did not seem an unusual accompaniment to dinner.)

- the seat belts on intercity buses. I don’t mind wearing a seat belt. My complaint is about the particular seat belts used on intercity buses in South Korea: The piece to the right is HUGE and is firmly fixed to the seat, so it can’t be moved, and the seats are made for SMALL people. I may not be the slim little wisp that I was when in high school, but I’m not much over the ideal weight for my height, and I still developed a HUGE bruise from where this seat belt part dug into my side on every bus trip. Ouch!

- The lack of a top-is-north convention for maps. (I think the convention may be that the top is what you are facing, but I’m not certain.) I didn’t realize that it wasn’t top-is-north until well into my trip, but I was soon aware that I was having great difficulty using publicly posted maps. That was disconcerting, as I am usually pretty good with maps. Eventually, I remembered being in another country where top is not necessarily north: Lightbulb!

- The very limited space for hanging things in Korean lodgings. Only one room in which I stayed had more than 3 hangers (it had 5!?!); some had less. Most rooms had enough rack space for me to hang my used towels and my day’s handwash; some did not.

- My idea of a dinner napkin is something one can use to cover one’s lap and wipe one’s hands. Not so in South Korea! As a rule, dinner napkins were no larger than what I consider a “cocktail napkin,” and they were often made of much thinner tissue. I did reasonably well – IMO – with the metal chopsticks and spoon, but I went through a LOT of the insubstantial little “napkins” I found at my tables. ;-)

What I liked <b>most</b>:

- the people and their truly warm hospitality. In every country I have visited over the years, I have been the fortunate recipient of some incredible acts of kindness, and those moments remain among my most precious memories of prior trips. Even in that context, the warmth and hospitality of the people of South Korea awed me, and it could well be that my memories of these people prove the most enduring of this trip. I don’t think I’ve ever been anywhere where so many people have gone out of their way to make me feel welcome or to find ways to help me or share something with me. As examples, I don’t think I ever stopped at a public map without someone politely offering assistance. And even though there was no reason to do so, an incredible number of people who passed me as I walked around a temple or climbed to a fortress wall or whatever took a moment to greet me, whether in English or Korean; and they beamed, and sometimes paused to speak, when I responded. Delicious fruit was foisted upon me; people who I asked for directions sometimes walked a block or more just to make sure I found what I sought; volunteer guides spent inordinate amounts of time with me. Wow!

- the food! One of the few words I learned before going to Korea was “delicious,” and I definitely had opportunities to use it! More often than not, I sat, laughing, as plate after plate after plate (“banchan” or small dishes) was put before me, sometimes even before I ordered. I don’t have the most adventurous of palates, but OMG, just about every dish was amazingly delicious! I didn’t always know what I was eating, but at most, one or two of the side plates at any one meal proved too salty or spicy for me.

- the attentiveness of bus drivers throughout Korea. There were, at most, only a few times when a bus driver failed to make absolutely certain that I got off at the place I wanted to go, and most of them also made sure I knew which direction to walk once I got off.

- Ondal floors! None of the nights that I was in Korea were particularly cold, but even so, a tad of warmth underfoot was incredibly pleasant. I want one!

- The ease of using the subway systems in Seoul, Daejeon, and Busan. There were frequent signs and announcements in English and each station had conveniently located maps of the station, the area around the station, and the metro system. It may have taken a moment for me to get oriented in any specific station, but it didn’t take long!

- The many opportunities I had to observe a wide range of Korean traditions, ceremonies, and performances, whether by walking through folk museums or attending events or visiting villages that have retained traditions that have been abandoned elsewere. I attended the very solemn Jongmyo Daeje as well as humorous reenactments of folk dances; saw professionally performed dances and barely proficient equestrian stunts; attended moving Buddhist prayers and the comedy of Nanta – a delightful range of cultural events!

- Public toilets. Seriously! Even in the middle of forested parks, public toilets were common, clean, and generally had Western-style toilets. I only came upon one public WC that had only squat toilets; a few had both Western and squat options, most had Western only. And almost all had plenty of toilet paper and soap. :-) There were even a surprising number of toilets, even in parks, that had those fancy Japanese toilets with heated, padded seats and a set of controls that provide all sorts of options. Awesome!

- And to move to the completely trivial, I became a complete convert to the exfoliating strips that many Korean hotels offer their guests. These are just bits of some kind of synthetic whatever, but I LOVED them – just the right texture for exfoliation, just the right size for scrubbing one’s back, easily wrung out to dry overnight. I took every one that my hotels offered as a free amenity and bought more for family and friends! When I showed one of my proprieters an example, and asked her to write out and pronounce the Korean name for it, she said, literally, "You won't believe me, but the name, pronounced in Korean, really is “shower tower – or should that be towel?” LOL! But using that name worked, and some of my friends and family members will reap the benefits. (Or they might if I decide to give any up.)

I think you will have noticed that my “least-liked” list includes many things that were irksome, but ultimately irrelevant; my “most-liked” list includes things that made this trip truly memorable. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in South Korea!

Oh good, very glad to see this get started!

BTW, if you had problems with the noise, the trash and the traffic in South Korea, you might want to skip India... Just saying.

OMG, thursdaysd, there are SO many things in India that I would love to see, and SO many things I don't think I can manage -- the heat, the poverty, the crowds.... Not to mention the horrible events involving women over the last few years -- which I know you bring to our attention as soon as you become aware of them. Sadly, I suspect that India is off my list of priorities, at least for now. But maybe things will change, and at least I am absolutely certain that I won't run out of other options!

Oh, and I should be clear: I found the noise, trash, and traffic in South Korea irritating, nothing more, and I regret if I suggested that they were trip-stoppers (as I think they can be in some countries).

Doesnt sound good when the negatives are up top.

Well, I think India is absolutely worth it, but I was amused because I don't remember noticing that noise and trash were bad in Korea, and certainly not traffic, but apparently I've spent more time in Asia than you have (yet). BTW, I drink wine almost exclusively at home, but I drink beer in Asia. Things may be gradually improving, but when I started traveling in Asia wine was either undrinkable or ridiculously expensive. I don't even look for it any more.

kja - I am looking forward to your report particularly about Seoul....as I said in your other post, all I know about Korea is from Korean dramas, and Seoul and the Han River have a place in my heart....:)
In the dramas they tend to drink at these tent bars which seem to be outside and serve soju and some type of food - did you see places like that?
I am surprised about the litter - in Japan you don't see trash cans much at all in the stations/streets but there is very little litter for the most part.
Was there no language issue for the most part? Funny about 'shower towel.' In Kyoto I was with a Japanese friend in a health and beauty aids type store and I told her I needed body lotion and asked how you say it in Japanese....'body lotion'....with a little Japanese accent of course. ;-)

Warm greetings again kja and early thank you for what promises to be another thoughtful trip report concerning a country I've grown to savour for current Asia business travel, South Korea. (And remain most appreciative of your China musings. Believe have mentioned this before: writers like you make being on the road for work that much more enjoyable.)

Completely concur with your positive impressions of that warm S. Korean hospitality, the cuisine and yes, those occasional "exfoliation strips". Am presently scheduled for ongoing Seoul meetings this month, so look forward to more from you.

As always, would be honoured to offer lodging, dining and recreational ideas for our fine home of Singapore (and naturally, a certain Singaporean airline I'll be flying "trans-pac" for work this weekend). Our sweet city-state of SIN can have her moments.

Keep up the brilliant work, kja; always a pleasure. Warm and early weekend (and perhaps holiday) wishes to you and all from San Francisco Bay Area,

macintosh (robert)


... Singapore Girl, You're a Great Way to Fly ...

Hmm… I wonder if the trash I noted was because I arrived in Seoul on a holiday weekend? If the street clearners were off, that might explain the amount of litter I saw. (Although more trash receptacles would have helped!)

@ Prachuap – point taken! I hope the title of my TR lets the reader know that I thought the positives won out.

@ thursdaysd – I wasn’t particularly surprised that it was difficult to get decent wine at an affordable price; it’s just one of the (little) things earned a place on my "least liked" list. I do enjoy being able to relax with a glass of wine, or beer, at an outdoor cafe at the end of a long walk! Maybe one day I'll learn to stop looking for such opportunities when in Asia. (Of course, the day I do that will be the day it actually becomes an option, and I won't even notice! ;-) )

@ Mara – I did see some of those little tent places, and unlike you, I hadn’t known about them! All the ones I saw sold hot food (oh, the aromas were enticing!); I’m sure that beer and soju would have been available (as they were at most other places where one could eat).

Language was more of an issue in some places than others, but there were at least some people who spoke at least some English just about everywhere. And I’m always pleasantly surprised by how much can be accomplished with just a few words, particularly when people are as accomodating as I found the Koreans to be. I’ll try to be sure to note the few times where communication was on the more challenging side.

As a speaker of a language that adopted so many words from other cultures, I guess I shouldn’t be surprised when other languages adopt English terms, particularly for modern conveniences. Even so, it can catch me quite off guard, especially when the items seem so commonplace and, as you say, they are pronounced (charmingly) with accents.

@ AskOksena – Hi, Robert, and thanks again for your kind words. Towards the end of my stay, I adopted one of your recommendations – but I’m not giving anything away yet! You are just going to have to read along…. :-)

"The lack of a top-is-north convention for maps." I had to laugh at this one. I kept wondering why I was so lost in Tokyo until it was pointed out to me that there is no "north at the top of the map" convention in Tokyo!

Enjoying your report, kja.

@ Kathie – Knowing the direction of a map turns out to be useful, doesn’t it! :-) I think it WAS Japan where I had encountered that issue before….


Thanks to all of you who are sharing this trip with me -- keep on chiming in!


<b>Approach to Planning: </b>

I LOVE to plan my trips, and in recent years, I have typically spent about 6 months (on evenings and weekends, as my schedule permits) doing so. This time, life intervened and I did not feel as prepared as I would have liked when I left for the airport.

Planning for Korea provided some unique challenges: There was enough information out there to let me indulge my urge to plan, but only up to a point. There was not enough information (or at least, not enough that I could find that seemed reliable) for me to have confidence in some of my plans. And in some cases, the information I had was so scanty or inconsistent that I didn’t feel I could plan at all. :-( (Of course I know that NO plan is perfect, and I never think of a plan as being written in stone, but I do like being able to think things through in advance when I can.) Here are a few examples of the challenges I encountered:

• Planning a visit to the Gansong (aka Kansong) Art Museum. This museum, which some sources describe as the finest private collection of art in South Korea, is only open twice a year – for two weeks in May and two weeks in October. But NOTHING I did resulted in information about WHICH two weeks in May! Just before I left, I got a message from the staff of one of my hotels in Seoul saying that it would not likely be the first 2 weeks….

• Identifying certain transportation options. Example: I hoped to visit Buseoksa and believed that the best way to do so would be by taking a bus from the city of Yeongju. But the only bus information I could find suggested that there would be no way to get to the temple after 8 a.m. and no way to leave it until about 5 p.m. – options that didn’t suit me well. If nothing else, I thought, maybe I could hire a taxi for the day….

• Reserving certain reserve-able events. Example: Perhaps a month before my trip was to start, I came across an announcement that two of Seoul’s palaces – including Changgyeonggung, which was near my hotel – would be open for a rare evening visit on the night of my arrival in Seoul AND that a certain number of tickets were reserved for foreigners. Bonus! One was to call a certain number, so I did! And called. And called. And then I called other numbers – the number for the 2nd palace included in the special event (yes, the number you have is correct, we don’t know why you can’t get through… ) and a different number for the palace in question that I found on-line (yes, you are right about the tickets, but we can’t help you – please call the number you already have again….) How frustrating! I spent both more time and much more money than I would have liked talking to people who couldn’t help until the last date for making advance reservations passed. Sigh.

With lots of deep, calming breaths (and BTW, it turns out that it is helpful to take such breaths SLOWLY), I planned what I could – which was, in truth, most of my trip.

<b>Key Resources: </b> Here are the key resources I used:

- The following six guidebooks:
Frommer’s <i>South Korea</i>,
Insight Guides’ <i>South Korea</i>,
Michelin’s Green Guide, <i>South Korea</i>,
Moon Handbook’s, <i>South Korea</i>,
Rough Guide’s <i>Korea</i>, and
Seoul Selection Guide’s <i>Korea</i>.

The best of these was, IMO, no contest -- the <i>Seoul Selection Guide</i>. The bad news: It is made with high quality paper and a wealth of color photos, so it is NOT a good book for carrying along, and it was not available in Kindle or other electronic format. :-( The book I chose to take in hardback was the one I thought second best, the Moon guide (minus all the pages I didn’t think I would need, which I tore out -- ouch! Sort of like ripping a bandage off, IMO.) I also had a copy of the Rough Guide on Kindle. BTW, I didn’t use either of two of my usuals for this trip: I read so many bad reviews of the Lonely Planet’s guide that I didn’t even look at it, and, at least when I shopped, Fodor’s didn’t have a book on Korea that I could find that was less than 10 years old.

- Answers to questions I posted here on Fodor’s, as well as answers to a few questions I posted on TripAdvisor or sent to VisitKorea.com (the web-iste of South Korea's tourism organization) or to some of the lodgings I reserved, and trip reports and other postings that I found through Fodor’s. Here’s a link to my planning thread:
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...outh-korea.cfm

- Input from a few Korean friends and also several friends who are not Korean, but who have visited one or more parts of South Korea.

- Google maps. And

- Any and all sites I could find when googling topics about which I wished to know more.

<b>Lodging: </b> At this point in my life, my critera for accommodation generally include cleanliness and safety, location, en suite bath facilities, internet access (preferably free wifi), cost, and other evidence of “good” as opposed to “not so good.” I spend very little time in my lodgings – as a rule, just enough time to sleep and take care of hygiene -- so I do NOT look for high-end accommodations, nor do seek Western hotels.

- As with my other travel plans, I seek variety in my lodging: I wanted to stay in at least one <i>hanok</i> (a traditional Korean home, converted for guest lodging), at least one temple, at least one “love hotel” (more about them later), etc.

- I read reviews on both booking.com and tripadvisor.com (and sometimes other sites), and then reserved most of my lodging through booking.com and a few places through their own web sites.

- The only reservation I didn’t have before leaving was for Yeongju, for which I had little information. I had selected a possible hotel, but couldn’t reach it. After arriving in South Korea, I reserved it with the help of someone at a hotel I visited early in my trip.

- I post reviews of hotels on TripAdvisor (TA), and I don’t like to create the impression that two different people have said the similar things about a place, so in what follows, I will quote my TA reviews verbatim.

<b>Language: </b> I listened to 7 or 8 hours of Pimsleur’s Korean lessons, but I can not say that I learned to speak Korean before my trip. I found Korean to be very alien to my ears and I had a hard time with even some very basic phrases. But I did learn a few words and phrases – enough to at least try to be civil. And with the help of a few friends who are Korean, or who have Korean relatives, I learned some words that I found very particularly useful: wonderful, delicious, etc.

<b>Currency: </b> Someone with whom I work had recently returned from Seoul, so he sold me his leftover won – about 30,000 won – for the exchange rate listed on the internet the day we looked. Otherwise, I knew that the airport into which I would fly (Incheon) had conveniently located ATMs.


Soon to come: <b>posts about the trip itself! </b> I will try to provide enough of a description of places to give you a sense of what I am talking about, but I will NOT try to duplicate information you can find in a guidebook or with a simple internet search. Instead, my focus will be on MY experiences of these places in the hope that that information will provide a personal perspective on things you can easily learn elsewhere. When it seems appropriate, I will interrupt my report to share some generalizations; I will try to remember to set these notes aside by starting them with astericks.

Again – feel free to ask questions any time!


<u>Days 0-1</u>: <b>Flight from DC to Seoul</b>

I flew Korean Air, taking a direct flight from Dulles to Incheon. I was in window seat (my preference) in economy class (not my preference, but I can’t imagine it is anybody else’s, either ;-) ) Fortunately, there was no one in the seat next to me, so it was by no means the smallest space I’ve been forced to occupy. It could have been MUCH worse! I chose the Korean dishes for each of my two dinner choices, and thought them better than many intercontinental meals I’ve had. (Although I must say that the bibimbap tasted much better on the way there than the way back. I got spoiled!) With the “benefit” of a sleepless night of preparations before my midday flight, I slept through most of this 14.5 hour flight.

Once at Incheon, I easily spotted a store selling “T-Money” cards -- plastic cards the size of a credit card that one can use to pay for subway and other transit options within Seoul and some other parts of Korea, with greater savings and convenience than using hard currency for each trip. I was surprised that it seemed difficult to buy this card, until I realized that my coworker had inadvertently sold me some Phillipine currency. :-( Yes, that would make the transaction more complicated! Once I offerred Korean currency, purchasing and charging the T-Money Card were very easy.

I then stopped at an ATM and went to an easily located Tourist Information (TI) desk, where I got a map, confirmed the directions to my lodging, and headed to the departure point for my bus. It arrived soon, and the driver stowed my luggage in an external side compartment. ( I love external luggage compartments!)

During my hour-plus-long bus ride, I looked out over the broad mud flats (I think that’s what they were) of the vast tidal basin near Incheon. Soon, the bus reached the outskirts of Seoul, with its many clusters of highrise apartment buildings – cluster after cluster after cluster, each building maybe 20- or 25-stories tall, mostly in the same shade of eggshell white, rising in tiers, one after the other, into and in front of the surrounding tree-covered hills. This was my first exposure to Korea’s hills, which I came to think of as dragon-backed ridges – they extend across the horizon with so many ups and downs that the ridges seem broken; ridges that ran parallel to one another, one behind the next, fading into bluer and bluer shades until they disappear into the distance. For me, this image of clusters of high-rise apartment buildings creeping up the lower reaches of multiple dragon-backed ridges will remain one of my iconic images of Seoul, and, absent the high-rises, an iconic (and lovely) image of much of what I saw of South Korea.

It was easy to find my stop: Shortly after a recorded voice announcement (as I was to learn, many announcements on public transportation in Seoul were in Korean, Mandarin, Japanese, and English), the bus driver signaled to me that we had reached my destination. I stepped off and he gave me my luggage.

Great stuff - looking forward to more.

BTW, do you live in DC? If so, would you be interested in a mini-GTG the first weekend in August?

Thanks, thursdaysd!

I do live in the DC area and expect be in town the first weekend in August, but there is a small chance that I might have to be elsewhere that week. I would be delighted to meet you – thank you so much for suggesting it! I think we have a mutual friend out on the west coast; I’ll give him permission to share my contact info with you. Or feel free to suggest another way to connect!

Cool! The safest would be to leave a comment at http://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/ - you haven't commented before (I think?) so it won't post to the blog, but it will give me your email address.

This is great kja. Funnily enough I was in Seoul in May too, though only for a few days. Loved it. Very interested to see what happens next.

@ thursdaysd – You need to help a luddite! When I tried to click on your “comments” link, my computer (a Mac) told me that I don’t have an app that will let me do that. So, what do I need? I have a Mac and an iPad; no smart phone.

@ gertie – I wonder how often our paths crossed in Seoul? I’ll look forward to hearing your perspectives on the things I saw.

@ Mara -- next to last paragraph of this post.


<u>Day 1, continued</u>: <b>Seoul </b>

I got of the bus, as directed, at the Changdeokgung stop, began following the directions provided by my lodging, and thought to myself: “This can’t be right – it’s too close!” But it was correct -- bonus! I turned the corner across from the impressive main gate to Changdeokgung – one of Seoul’s palaces – and then walked through a short block of multistory structures with storefronts. In just minutes, I reached my lodging.

<b>HOTEL: Hostel Korea 11th: Changdeokgung. </b> Here’s the review I posted on TripAdvisor:

“I spent 5 nights in a double for single use at the Hostel Korea 11th: Chandeokgung <sic>. For my purposes, the location was superb: I was within easy walking distance of 3 different subway lines and multiple sites of interest to me. 



I found this hostel to be quite serviceable and pleasant. There is a small area with a cheerfully utilitarian décor that serves as the breakfast room and is available 24/7. There’s also a roof deck with some nice views of the mountains to Seoul’s north and a self-service laundry area, too.

My corner room offered nice views; was spotlessly clean; and was simply, but comfortably, furnished. It had a minifrig, electric kettle, free wifi, flat screen TV, and computer. The bathroom was a wet room with sufficient counter space and just enough rack-space to suit my needs. 



Breakfast was also serviceable: Hardboiled eggs; steamed sweet potato slices; bread that you could toast in one of two 2-slice toasters and top with jam (my one recommendation for the hostel: get a few more toasters!); bananas; a delicious yogurt drink; cereal; and (unfortunately) truly lousy coffee. 



The staff of the Hostel Korea 11th deserve special commendation. They spoke English well, responded promptly to numerous questions I sent in advance of my trip, and provided patient and constructive answers to the many questions I asked during my stay. 



To be absolutely clear: The Hostel Korea 11th provides utilitarian accommodation. If you want luxury, you are looking at the wrong place! But if you want to stay in this part of Seoul in a place that is clean, pleasant, serviceable, and staffed with people who will go out of their way to help you, then the Hostel Korea 11th is well worth considering. I am very glad I chose to stay there.”

<i><b> *** Accomodations in South Korea</b>: There were several things that I found common to all the places I stayed during my trip, with the exception of my templestay (which was an entirely different beast). These commonalities could have resulted from my strategy for selecting accommodations, rather than from common Korean norms, but for what it’s worth, here’s what I observed:

- Payment in full was expected in advance.
- One is expected to take one’s shoes upon entering one’s room. Separate pairs of slip-on sandals are provided for the bedroom and the bathroom.
- If there is a bed (and you should be able to tell in advance whether you are reserving a Western room – with a bed – or not), then the bed will be on the firm side (I’ve slept on firmer). Whether in a Western room or not, you will likely find a lightweight comforter, but not a top sheet. (Hotels geared to Westerners may have them; I don’t know!)
- I was generally given 3 hand towels and 1 bath towel.
- Many bathrooms were “wet” – the room is designed with no expectation that a shower curtain or shower wall or anything else will contain the water from a shower. Instead, there is a drain in the bathroom floor into which the water will flow. Most such rooms are designed with more than enough spray-free space, but do consider the placement of towels, robes, toiletries, etc., before taking a shower!
- Bathroom counter space was often quite limited.
- All rooms in which I stayed had functioning sink stoppers.
- My electrical adaptors fitted too loosely to function properly in any of the rooms in which I stayed. With one exception, all of my accommodations had adaptors that I could borrow.
- Most of my rooms used the door’s key card to control electrical current, so one could not charge electrical appliances after leaving.
- As I recall, all the rooms I stayed in had a wide-screen TV, a computer, a mini-frig stocked with water, a hair dryer, and at least a core selection of toiletries – soap, body wash, shampoo, conditioner, a toothbrush, and toothpaste. Many rooms had other amenities, such as electric kettles, packets of tea, robes, etc. Rooms in “love hotels” also had a tray with various lotions and creams.
- With one exception, none of my rooms had more than 3 hangers.</i>

Back to my first night in Seoul: I checked into my hotel, freshened up, and decided that I had enough energy to spend a couple of hours exploring Seoul. You might recall that I had been unable to reserve a night visit to Changgyeonggung. But there I was in Seoul, only a 15-minute walk from the palace, in need of a stretch of legs after a 14.5-hour flight and an hour-long bus ride thereafter, and really, what did I have to lose? The worst they could do was say no! So off I set, and YES! WooHoo! They let me in! :-) As I knew by the time I got there, I had at most just over an hour before closing, but it’s a small palace.

<b>Changgyeonggung.</b> Changgyeonggung may not be the largest or most noteworthy of Seoul’s palaces, but seeing it after dark on the first night of a visit to South Korea gave it a special aura. As I stepped through the gate and faced the little arched bridge, with its guadian statues, over the stream that marked the inner/outer border, I thought: ah, yes, I am back in the Orient!

The grounds were lit specially for this night-time event, with tasseled red and blue silk lantern screens hung over the lights that mark its pathways and green or yellow lights provided back-lighting to the major sites. Most palaces and residences and pavillions were lit so that one could see both exteriors and interiors. The area by a pavillion overlooking the palace’s stone pagoda and the area by a man-made pool near the king’s residence seemed especially lovely to me in the dim light. There were a number of people about, but everyone spoke in hushed tones and the atmosphere was wonderfully quiet and evocative.

As I was walking in the area near the king’s and queen’s residences, a guard signaled to me, and despite her limited English, indicated that I should go to the palace’s pond before the palace closed for the night. And so off to the pond I went, and I am so grateful for her timely notice! Here, too, lighting was used to great effect, and the reflections in the still waters of the pond were absolutely lovely! All too soon I heard the announcement for closing, an announcement that was made in several languages, including English.

It was a beautiful evening, and very comfortable, and OMG, what a wonderfully unexpected introduction to South Korea!

I returned to the area near my hotel, walked around a bit to get a sense of the neighborhood, and then returned to my hotel. I checked my e-mail, and found a surprise, which requires a bit of a back-story.

I knew well in advance of my trip that May 4 would be the day of the Jongmyo Daeje (aka Jongmyo Jerye), a centuries-old celebration of the kings and queens of the Joseon dynasty. The shrine in which this ceremony is held – Jongmyo – is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (WHS), and the ceremony itself has been designated a UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. The ceremony was another event for which a number of (free) tickets for non-Koreans had been set aside. I had applied well in advance of my trip, but apparently not soon enough – days before my departure, I got word that my application had been denied. But when I returned to my hotel that night and checked my e-mail, OMG, I had been awarded a ticket after all!

I fell asleep with the feeling that South Korea had opened its arms to me. :-)


<u>Day 2</u>: <b>Seoul</b>

<b>Bukchon.</b> Bukchon is a small district within Seoul that is “preserved to show a 600-year-old urban environment traditional village … composed of lots of alleys [and] hanok …” <quoted from Wikipedia>. While that may well be true, that description does not fully capture my experience: In my 2-hour-plus walk of the area, I saw a lot of tourists posing before a few stretches of traditional hanok walls. I saw a lot of places where it was possible to imagine that hanoks were hidden behind walls. I saw a lot of electrical wiring and unadorned cement walls. I saw a place where one could look out over much newer sections of the city. With effort, I found “the” place where one could look out over a Joseon-era palace – if one climbed up on a bench and craned one’s neck…

If you are getting the sense that I thought Bukchon over-hyped, you would not be mistaken. I didn’t find my time in the area unpleasant – it was just not what I had expected. I thoroughly enjoyed a few places: the garden of the Constitutional Court; a set of wisteria-draped arbors edging a library’s courtyard, etc…. (But those aren’t the essence of Bukchon, are they???)

There was one place, though, up a small inconspicuous street that was sided by a fence, from which one could see, descending a slope, a series of slate-colored tile roofs, each with its ever-so-slightly upturned corners, each giving texture and shading to the view, each making me smile. THAT was worth seeing!

I stopped for a latte and then headed for Jongmyo. As I understood it, there was to be a parade leading up to the Jongmyo Daeje, and it was to proceed along a route that I could easily reach from Bukchon. My plan was to walk along the parade route until I reached Jongmyo. I was a bit later than I had planned, but only by 15 or 20 minutes, and there was no sign that there had been, or would be, a parade along any of the very busy streets involved. After a relatively long, rapid walk in more humid and hotter conditions than I would have preferred, I came to the main entrance to Jongmyo – only to see signs directing me elsewhere because of a construction project.

I bought more water and followed the directions and FINALLY found the entrance. There, I learned that the parade had been cancelled because of the tragic ferry disaster that had taken place about a month before. Fully understandable!

People at the gate were handing out sunvisors made of two flat pieces, one that wrapped around one’s head and the other that clipped into it to shade one’s face and eyes. Perfect!

<b>Jongmyo. </b> The entry into the shrine provided a surprisingly clear demarcation between the hustle/bustle of city life and quietude. I had been on a street that was filled with vendors and relatively raucous crowds, and as soon as I stepped through Jongmyo’s gate, I felt the peacefulness of a sanctuary. I had only about a half-hour to visit the grounds of Jongmyo before positioning myself for the ceremony. Despite the crowds, my impression was that this was a very deeply respected space, and one that was intended to foster contemplation (as a pond near the entry did) or to quietly inspire (as the elegant lines of each building did).

<b>Jongmyo Daeje (aka Jongmyo Jerye). </b> From what I had read in advance, my understanding was that this ritual takes 6 hours all together, and includes 3 phases that are open to the public: the parade, a 2-hour ceremony that would be accessible to the public and would start at 1 p.m.; and another ceremony open to those with tickets from 4:30 to 7:00 p.m.

The doors to the main shrine were opened at about 12:30, and I joined the masses as we entered and jockeyed for position. The shrine used for this part of the ritual is exceptionally long; I thought it had an incredibly simple elegance. The long side facing the courtyard is divided into multiple “bays” defined by supporting columns, and each “bay” held a table and various sacred objects. Most of the courtyard was actually a huge paved “platform” raised about 4 feet above the surrounding edges; there are several bridges connecting this raised area to the shrine. I was lucky enough to find a position leaning forward against the wall of this platform.

The vast platform had been covered, in parts, by woven mats, which demarked the places in which partipants (celebrants? I’m not sure how to refer to them) would later stand. An occasional gust of wind (thank goodness the air moved once in a while! -- it was very hot that day, :-( ) tossed the mats hither and fro. There were two or three men in costume who ran about repositioning the many mats. (I kept thinking: Have you never heard of rocks or other weights?) Each time the men returned to their positions, the wind would hurl the mats around again….

Soon, costumed men began stepping onto the paved platform against which I was leaning. They were in Joseon-era costumes for civil officers and they seemed to take great pride in being precise in their steps and other movements. The costumes seemed generally similar, but there were some differences that would have signalled rank – whether one’s shoes were white or white with black details; whether one’s belt was “jade” only or had some other stones, etc.

Once everyone was in position, there was a row of men – maybe 10 wide – who were standing on the platform just a few feet in front of me; this was the last row of perhaps a dozen rows of men. Then a woman came along the platform edge, on the level where I was (not on the platform itself) and adjusted each man’s custom: There were knots that she re-tied and garments that she straigtened and socks that she re-positioned. She was VERY particular. And each time she started her work on the next man in line, it was interesting to see the startled reaction on his face, even as he stayed as still as he could.

And then began about 2 hours of … I wasn’t exactly sure. I had looked at on-line images of the ceremonies before leaving for Korea, but they all showed what was happening within the shrine, and from where I was standing, I could barely see into a few of the bays. Over the course of the next 2 hours, the rows of men filed to the center of the platform, and then into the shrine, and then back into place. I could hear the occasional sounds of bells and drums and gongs. I could see that someone in a special headdress (I assume the man protraying the king) was carried by palenquin into the area and then escorted by foot, to and from, a central point. And I could see, within the barely visible shadows of the shrine, various people moving around the tables in the shrine’s bay, offering wine or foods or whatever in highly ritualized movements.

And then, once everyone was back in place (with lots of running around to again secure the mats), it was over. And only then did I see any of those many men who took part smile -- which they did broadly as their children leapt onto the platform and into their arms or as other family members and friends came up and greeted them. I have no idea whether anyone on that platform believed in the power of the rituals that he reanacted, but I am convinced that those men believed in the importance of preserving those rituals.

After 2+ hours of standing in the sun (thank goodness for that visor!), I was ready to go.

I left the shrine and found a coffee shop, where I eventually got a much-needed cup of coffee. (Did anyone think that heating water IN ADVANCE of an order might be worth considering if your business is running a coffee shop? Of course that thought remained unspoken….) Much as I wanted a second cup, there was no time before the next part of the Daeje, the part for which I had been given a last-minute seat.

As instructed in the e-mail that notified me that I had been granted one of the free seats for this event, I went to the entrance to the shrine and found a table at which I could check in. The volunteers who manned this desk were very helpful and very gracious. I was given my ticket, a brochure, little booklet that I could use to obtain and record stamps from all the UNESCO WHSs I visited while in Korea, and a little emergency rain parka. I was offered a sun-visor (which I declined, since I already had one) and an English-language audio of the ceremony, which I declined (with regret) because I had a reservation subsequent to this one and didn’t think I would have time to stand in line to return it and retrieve my ID.

<i><b> ***English-speaking Korean volunteers. </b> I benefited enormously from the many, many English-speaking Koreans who volunteered as docents or at tourist information offices or who staffed special events, such as this one. I didn’t realize until well in my trip that these people are often (generally? always?) volunteers. And every one seemed to take great pride in the things they were able to share with, and make accessible to, foreigners – their efforts seemed to me to be genuine labors of love. How awesome! </i>

I also learned that this part of the ritual would actually be the SAME as that which I had observed earlier; the only difference is the availability of seating at this version. Oops!

This ceremony was held in a different building than the earlier one, and if not quite so long or quite so elegant, it nonetheless had a similarly pleasing simplicity of lines. My seat offered a view of not only the “civil officers” (those whose backs I had seen earlier), but also a distant view of musicians and dancers. And there were two HUGE video screens beside the visitors’ seats, so I could see what was happening INSIDE the shrine, not to mention the camera’s views of the dancers and musicians and the civilian officers and the costume of the man brought in on a palenquin and a man and woman (each in a beautiful robe) who were narrating the event.

As I suspected from my earlier experience, the ritual is solemn and slowly paced and a bit (OK – quite decidedly!) ponderous.

Then … was that a raindrop? Another? People began rushing out. It’s just a few raindrops! I put my emergency parka on. Event staff began moving easily assembled tents onto the shrine’s courtyard to protect the musical instruments. The ritual participants stayed in place. More frequent raindrops. More people dashed for the exit. Volunteers came out and distributed sturdier parkas. Rain began to come down harder. Even more attendees ran out. Event staff began moving more tents onto the courtyard. And then, as the rain came in full force, even the most stalwart of the ritual participants ran for the exits. And, with the last of the die-hard, I did, too, perhaps a half-hour short of the time it would take for completion of the full ritual.

Had I known, in advance, that I would see the “same” thing at both times, I can’t imagine that I would have tried to attend both. But what a precious stroke of fortune it was to have attended both segments, given the different experiences they afforded me. And, thanks to the rain, I didn’t sit through the ENTIRE event a full second time. ;-)

Despite the downpour, I took my time walking to the exit gate. Most of the grounds were blocked off, but I still appreciated seeing the green refuge that this shrine provided in the midst of one of the most densely populated cities in the world. And IMO, if a pond is pretty in good weather, it’s worth seeing when raindrops pock its surface. :-)

<b>Nanta (a play/comedy/musical).</b> It was very easy to find my way to the Myeongdong NANTA Theater: I took a bus to the very, very busy Lotte Department Store, and then walked a few blocks. I had reserved in advance (while still at home) and I arrvived in plenty of time to claim my ticket.

OMG, this play was such fun! It has energy and athleticism and musicality and martial arts and Latin dance and humor that ranged from corny to witty and it engages that audience wonderfully and I recommend it wholeheartedly. :-)

<b>Myeongdong district. </b> I’m not a shopper, so my goals for walking through this notorious shopping district were to get to/from the theater and to get something to eat. I had, in advance, identified a nearby restaurant that I thought I might enjoy that would still be open after Nanta ended. But I hadn’t understood Seoul’s method of assigning addresses, and so never found the restaurant.

<i><b> ***Street addresses: </b> In Seoul, and many other parts of Korea, the thing I understood to be the “street” name when I looked at an address might not refer to a street, but rather to a district. As a result, multiple parallel AND perpendicular streets have the same "name". Street signs generally give the “district” name and often indicate which building numbers would be found in a particular block – or at least that’s what I came to believe. </i>

There were a lot of food stands in the area. I rarely partake of street food because I prefer to sit down and relax over a meal. But it was late, the foods smelled wonderful, and I could watch the food being cooked (which I think is important when eating street food). Soon I had a delicious serving of a lightly coated, deep-fried, sandwich-like thing of minced shrimp and crab and vegetables. SO good! A bit later, I also had some nicely seasoned potato crisps. To this day, I don’t know how the local vendors turned slices of potato into such tasty coils!

<b>Cheonggyecheon Stream. </b> The Cheonggyecheon Stream is a revitalized waterway through the core of Seoul. There was an entrance just a few blocks from Myeongdong.

Near the start of my walk, a part of the stream had been strung with lanterns in advance of Buddha’s Birthday: Lovely! Other parts were more subdued. The stream was lined with young trees, and burgeoning shrubs, and reeds…. I’d love to see this urban park once the vegetation matures! There were stepping stones to cross the stream every so often, and places to sit, and a few places where walls were decorated with tiles that depicted key events from Korean history. Through most of what I saw, they stream flowed steadily, with just a bit of speed, through a slight downhill course, but there was at least one point when it flowed at a noticably rapid pace, and at least one place where it flowed over enough rock for me to consider it a small waterfall. A few others were out enjoying the evening, strolling or sitting.

What a great urban walkway!

As I walked toward my hotel, I passed a few street-side eateries, but not food trucks or carts – small, tented, street-side eateries. (Mara – these are the ones!) From what I could see, some tents --- the larger ones – had space for the cooking area and maybe as many as 12 or even 16 diners (I’m guessing); other tents seemed to have space for even fewer patrons. Each had a small central area where someone was cooking, and tables to either side, all under a single tent, and all with lots of lively conversation and comraderie. Although I didn’t eat in any, the aromas were enticing and the concept intrigued me.

I also passed a closed fish restaurant, where I learned something else about Korea: Many fish restaurants are fronted by tiers of large fish tanks, from which people select their meal.

Wow, that is a very busy first day! I was starting to suffer from starvation just reading it.

Great that you were able to do the evening visit, it sounds magical.

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kja...lol....those tents sound like what I see in the dramas.

Great first day! The room sounds similar to a budget Japanese, e.g. Toyoko Inn, room except the Japanese bathroom always has a deep tub, right? Yes, three hangers is about it. ;-)

You are tempting me to visit Seoul. I am thinking to take a quick trip - maybe 3 nights - if I can get a cheap fare from Japan next spring.

Looking forward to more - even places I don't plan to visit - oh, and Jeju Island is also often visited in dramas......

Don't mind me - I am a kdrama addict....lol....I've seen many historical dramas as well and would love to see them dressed in those costumes at a palace.

Thanks so much for sharing. :)

kja - I meant to ask - how is the smoking situation in Korea? Are there non-smoking rooms in the hotels you stayed at? What about restaurants? I found that to be an issue in Japan. Still most restaurants there allow smoking or have no real partition between smoking and non-smoking areas.....
Then again maybe you are a smoker or that isn't an issue for you...;-)

kja, have read your stuff with great interest. I was in Seoul for just the last week of May, so we might have crossed in the street at the end of your trip!

While I was there I had a day in Gyeongbokgung, lovely, fairly quiet round the back and off the main drag!

Then another in Bukchon, which was a different story altogether... crowds and crowds of high school kids on school trips, the narrow streets very noisy and packed with people. Like you I found the English-speaking Volunteeers wonderful, so helpful and always smiling while answering my questions. One of them even advised me not to try to climb all the steps (I suspect due to my advanced age though she didn't exactly say that! I didn't take her suggestion either.) I walked back along Insadong picking up bits and pieces to take back for friends (I'm not a shopper in any way).

Another day I started in Unhyeongung which was almost deserted and suited me fine. Then across to Changeokgung and Changgyeonggung where I spent all day. Fantastic, especially the Secret Garden... hope you got there. You have to go on a tour to that bit but the group got so big, around 80 people, that it was quite easy to get lost and avoid them all!!

One thing I failed spectacularly in was a visit to Jongmyo. I found it with no problem and read all about it, only to stand outside and read that it was it closed Monday and Tuesday which were the only days I had left. So it is great to read about what I missed and it is always there for next time.

Another thing I did was to walk along Myeongdong to the elevator and cable-car up Namsan for great evening views. And more crowds.

I am sure I will read a lot more interesting stuff about your travels in the next part of your trip. I have also been to the DMZ, Pusan and Kojedo island but it was all in the early 80s. So I'm looking forward to your report telling me how much things have changed.

@ Mara -- I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Korean movie. Recommendations, please!

I had asked for non-smoking rooms when I made my reservations, and although I’m not overly sensitive to smoke, I didn’t have the sense that anyone had smoked in my rooms, or at least I didn’t think anyone had done so recently. (Although there was an ashtray in one room.) Smoking is not allowed in most restaurants (I think it may be OK in some of the little tiny places, like the tents, but I’m not positive) or other public buildings, and it is clearly disallowed in temples and palaces. I did occasionally see people who were smoking outside here and there; I don’t remember exactly where, but I vaguely recall clusters of smokers outside airline terminals and bus and train stations, and every once in a while on a busy street -- probably when people worked someplace nearby where smoking was not allowed and they had come outside to smoke during a break.

BTW, for my first glimpse of the Han River, see the 2nd paragraph of this day’s “installment.”

@ gertie – Sounds like we visited many of the same places, and at about the same time – we probably did pass one another! I didn’t make it to Unhyeongung; I wonder how you thought it compared to Seoul’s other palaces? And kudos for ignoring the advice (no matter how well-intentioned) to skip climbing the steps of Bukchon!


<u>Day 3</u>: <b>Seoul and the Korean Folk Villiage (KFV)</b> in Yongin-si, outside Seoul

This was Children’s Day in Korea, a major holiday when most sites in Seoul were to be closed. The <b> Korean Folk Village</b> is an outdoor museum featuring traditional houses from all over the country, which had been relocated there, along with their typical accoutrements. There are also workshops where one can experiment with (or watch) the making of traditional handicrafts and a set of four folk performance that are performed about twice each day.

To get there, I took a subway and then a bus. (The subway emerges from its tunnel to cross the Han River – Hangang – by bridge. Wow, now THAT is one massive river! I think it was at least a kilometer wide!)

As was to happen often on this trip, English speakers offered their help at just about every turn, so I easily found the correct subway, then the correct bus stop, and then the entrance to the KFV. Given that it was Children’s Day, I was not at all surprised that I was joining throngs of others, and indeed, there were LONG lines for people waiting to buy tickets. There was also a special counter, with no line :-) , for foreigners. Moments later, I was inside the ticket gates – and in a large area devoted to shops and restaurants and other “conveniences.” It didn’t take TOO long to cross this area….

As I mentioned, folk performances are routinely staged at the KFV, and I arrived just moments after the “Acrobatics on a Tightrope” performance began. The tightrope was in the center of a flat area surrounded by a few tiers of seats; I soon found a place from which I could watch. Some of those moves had to HURT! (Imagine jumping up from the tightrope and then landing on the rope with your legs extended out and in front of you. Male or female – this performer was male – I can’t imagine it!) When the performance ended, after about ½ hour, everyone got up and moved across a pathway to a different performance venue. Like the first, it had a set of tiered rings on which people could sit. What a clever way to make sure that those who had poorer seats for one show had a chance to find better seats for the next! I watched the “Equestrian Feats” before moving onto a 3rd venue – a home in which one could watch the re-enactment of a “Traditional [Josean Dynasty] Wedding.” Later in the day, I caught the day’s 2nd showing of “Farmers’ Music and Dance.”

As noted above, I attended quite a few folk performances during this trip. These were not the most polished of the ones I saw, but there were delightful nonetheless! Part of my enjoyment came from watching the many, many children in the audiences – such expressions of delight! And the faces of their parents, watching their children, who were watching the performances – priceless! And the faces of the many adults who take advantage, consciously or not, of the opportunity to be a child again …. And even if the performers were not the most skilled of those I saw, they were a lot of fun to watch. They engaged the audience; they did things that obviously took a great deal of skill and training; and whenever one did miss a trick, he or she was cheered as he or she tried again, even if it took a third attempt. My kudos to them all!

I spent hours walking around and exploring various buildings, learning a bit about some of Korea’s traditions, and being made to feel welcome. (I don’t know how many people came to speak to me, except that it was a LOT!) Lots of children seemed fascinated by my obviously non-Asian appearance, so they would stare and stare…. One poor little thing found it less to his liking: As soon as he saw me, he let out a spine-wrenching scream! He turned away more quickly than he turned off his wail, only to look at me again moments later: SCREAM. Repeat sequence. And again…. Poor kid!

I did not explore every nook and cranny of this vast outdoor museum, but I did see a sizeable portion, and I thoroughly enjoyed my time there. I readily admit that I’m a sucker for these kinds of places – I really like seeing the traditions, and I like being able to see buildings from different places and eras in close enough proximity to discern at least a few of the difference, and I love seeing people (of ALL ages) enjoying themselves.

As I awaited my bus, I captured a glimpse of someone with a pet – something I rarely saw in Korea. The woman in the front seat of a passing car held a small white lapdog, except he wasn’t entirely white – he had intensely purple ears. Seriously? I’m not sure the dying process would have been painful for the dog, but still – seriously? I only saw a few people with dogs while in Korea; many of those I did see were small, white lapdogs; I am pleased to report that none of the others I saw had obvious signs of dye.

<i><b> ***Some notes on Seouls’s subways.</b>
- Subways in Seoul have a single row of seats on either side facing inward; they are curved to define specific seating positions, There is space for two or even three rows of standing people in between. It seemed that almost without exception, people of any age get on, sit if a seat is available, take out their earplugs and cell phone, and type away. If no seats are available, you stand facing the window, pull out your earplugs and cell phone, and type away. OK, so not EVERYONE used earplugs and cell phones, but it did seem that the norm is that one never faces forward or backward or toward the opposite side of the car – I noticed, because I kept turning so I could see the signs that indicated what the next stop would be.
- Every car had seats reserved for the handicapped. No matter how crowded the car, I never saw someone who was not clearly handicapped take one of those seats. Even little old ladies who couldn’t stand straight stood, rather than taking one.
- The boarding platforms for many subways in Seoul and other cities are part of the South Korea’s civil defense system, and so have cabinets that hold gas masks and other emergency supplies. Seeing them made me realize that the vast majority of people I saw would have no personal recollections of living in country that was not technically at war. Wow. </i>

<b>Baru (temple cuisine restaurant). </b> In advance of my trip, I had read that Korean temple cuisine is delicious, and since that had been my experience in Japan, I was on board! After some research, I decided that the option that would suit my needs best while in Seoul would be Baru, aka Baru Gongyang. With the help of my hostel’s staff, I had made a reservation earlier in the week. They had apparently been VERY clear: Reservation or not, they would neither seat nor serve me if I wasn’t there by 7:30 p.m.

This restaurant was not far from my hotel. I returned to my room after visiting the Korean Folk Village and had enough time to shower and change before heading out. I had only walked about 5 minutes when I realized that I didn’t have my camera with me. Growl! I thought I could probably make it back to my room in time, but didn’t want to risk it. On I went.

I found the address (in the building with the TempleStay offices across from Jogyesa) easily, but for the life of me, I couldn’t find the entrance to this 5th story restaurant. I finally took an exterior staircase, and huffed and puffed my way to … a locked door!?! Thre was a bell, so I rang it and knocked. And rang and knocked. As the time to my “drop dead” time approached, I couldn’t help but admire the views over Jogyesa, a temple just across the street that was fully bedecked for the upcoming Buddha’s birthday. It seemed like I was looking out over a sea of multi-colored lanterns, interrupted only by the impressive crown of a huge tree. What an awesome view -- I wished I had a camera!

And how I wished I knew how to honor my reservation at Baru. I was just about to give up when the door opened; a woman graciously escorted me through the non-public regions of the restaurant (storage area, the kitchen) to the seating area. As we approached the table (one with chairs), I could see a row of shoes to my right, so I carefully took mine off and placed them on the ledge. But why did the hostess seem to be signalling, “no, no”!?! Only after I took my seat did I realize that I was in an area for Westerners, where people were supposed to leave their shoes ON. Oops!

My meal at Baru was phenomenal! I ordered the 12-course meal (about $39). Most courses had multiple dishes, each of which was beautifully presented. (I so wish I had my camera!) The serving staff went out of their way to try to tell me at least a little about each dish, and even if the communication wasn’t always perfect, I sincerely appreciated their efforts. Of the MANY dishes that I was given that evening, there were at most two that weren’t to my liking. Most were outstanding.

When I was finally ready to go, I was discretely steered to the elevator. Elevator? Yes – elevator, which took me to the building’s first floor, from which I could exit through the then-closed TempleStay offices. According to the sign on their doors, they closed before I would have arrived, so I still don’t know of any way I could have reached the restaurant except by it’s back door. If you decide to eat at Baru – and I would go again! – be sure to ask how to get to it when you make your reservation!

<b>Jogyesa – evening visit.</b> Before heading back to my rooms, I stopped at Jogyesa – and I am so glad I did! As I had seen from the stairway to Baru, a nearly continuous ceiling of lanterns covered this temple’s grounds, and they were at least as lovely from beneath as from atop. Too, there were temporary “walls” made of lanterns – metal dividers hung with them. And below each lantern, there was a plastic sheath holding a piece of paper with lettering: Anyone could pay to offer a wish for one person (for about $30) or for an entire family (for about $100 and up). I briefly considered making some kind of homage, but quickly decided that there are other things that would be more consistent with my family’s wishes. As I looked around Jogyesa – and the many other temples I saw during this time – I realized that these temples must reap a substantial portion of their annual income from these lanterns!

Most of the lanterns were small globes in a single color – green, white, magenta…. But there were also some HUGE “lanterns” that looked to me more like balloons that a parade float might use, but which were stationary and lit from within. Some were quite lovely; many struck me as decidedly tacky. To each his/her own!

The temple’s main hall was still open, and I found it very beautiful, with its three large gilded Buddhas, turquoise walls, lattice-like wooden screen doors, and arrays of small, back-lit Buddhas. Even in the midst of the seemingly chaotic preparations for the next day’s rituals, there was a wonderful sense of peace there. Very nice!

It was a quick walk (maybe 15 or 20 minutes) to my room, and no matter how curious I was about what I passed (places to eat? have a drink? buy something?), I was MUCH too tired to return – as I had thought I might – with my camera.

kja - I have never seen a Korean movie - Korean dramas are a different genre....they are more like soap operas or mini series. They are quite family oriented and have common themes often - it is too long to explain here - if you want to know more please send me an email my screen name plus b1 (one, not el) at hotmail dot com....

Your report has interested me a great deal - I have already found two websites about Korea and Seoul to bookmark for future reference.....looking forward to more - and it's nice to know how helpful the people there are... :)

Just catching up with your report. I've never thought about Korea as a destination, which makes your report a real delight.

@ Mara – Thanks for clarifying! Korean dramas sound interesting – and addictive! I’ll keep them in mind for retirement (should that day ever arrive). I’m glad you are finding my report interesting, and hope you continue to do so! And BTW, there’s more about the Han River at the end of this installment.

@ Kathie – Thanks your kind words! When I began researching South Korea as a possible destination for myself, I was surprised by how few people seem to have gone there, or at least, how few had stepped outside of Seoul for reasons other than family. (Thanks again to those who did and who kindly provided input as I planned my trip!) I am writing what I know is a ridiculously long TR in the hope that my impressions might be helpful to people who, like you, might not have considered traveling there.


<u>Day 4</u>: <b>Seoul -- Buddha’s Birthday Dharma Ceremonies and more</b>

This is the day on which Buddha's Birthday is celebrated in South Korea. I readily admit that I didn’t know what to expect of a Dharma Ceremony. I had read that Jogyesa would be a good place to see the morning (10 a.m.) event and that Bongeunsa would be a good place for the evening (7 p.m.) event, so I planned my day accordingly.

<b>Jogyesa – Dharma Ceremony. </b> Expecting crowds, I made sure that I reached Jogyesa before 8 a.m., and it was already very crowded. Roped-off seating for invitees filled much of the space, with what I took to be a South Korean version of secret service officers positioned around the relatively small temple grounds. I found a place to stand behind one of them – a very fit and watchful man who was wearing a suit and the telltale coiled earpiece. Perfect! He was directly behind the last row of seats, I could easily see over his shoulder, and no matter HOW much that crowd moved and swayed, he was immovable. :-) (I did wonder what he thought about my presence….)

The many colored lanterns swaying overhead gave the event a festive aura, even as other elements signalled solemnity. For the first hour or so, a choir performed (I assume as a dress rehearsal), and the music was lovely. There were some pieces with, and some without, musical instrumentation, along with some strictly instrumental pieces. And there were a pair of large video screens, so I could often see close-ups of the musicians.

I spent the next couple of hours watching people filter in – monks and dignitaries and children and people in uniform…. Many of the attendees were to have a role in the ceremony, and some women in traditional dress walked them through their dress rehearsals. I especially enjoyed a very young girl and boy, each dressed in gorgous modern-day attire, as they walked through their parts – they couldn’t help showing their hearts as they learned their steps. How sweet!

As the time for the start of the ceremony approached, more and more people pressed into the area, but the crowd was generally very well behaved. There was little pushing or shoving – right up until a few minutes before 10 a.m., when a news cameraman muscled his way to the front, female reporter in tow, causing even my “rock” to waiver ever so briefly. People did not seem pleased.

Once the ceremony began, I concluded that it would be a mix of the various events that I had seen rehearsed, along with Buddhist chants and prayers. By then, I had been standing for nearly two hours and was happy to yield my place to someone for whom the ceremony had religious significance. So I began to make my way to the exit – and to what proved to be a truly frightening experience:

There was a line of people moving slowly toward the main gate, and another line moving in the opposite direction, and because of the crowds, there wasn't much anyone could do except be patient. There seemed to be a bottleneck at a place where the lines rounded a corner. Moving, moving … stuck. And then the crowd behind me surged, and I felt myself lifted off the ground by the forces pressing against me, and I was carried – spinning and out of control, my arms pinned to my sides by the masses of people – and then I touched ground again, only to be forced forward without intention, and I heard someone scream and saw a head slip down out of view and I thought OMG, this is how people die in stampedes! And even as that thought crossed my mind, I heard some men shout and I saw a space – just a small one, but a space nonetheless -- open up and I saw a moaning woman lifted and I was swept around a corner and could see no more.

It was just a few more moments – probably only seconds, but it seemed an eternity – before I could break free of this throng. I was shaking so hard! It took me some time to return to any sense of normalcy. I couldn’t help but realize that I was at least a head taller than many of the people in that crush of mindless movement, so at least I could see. I can’t imagine being trapped in that chaos with no line of sight. And I’m large-boned, so perhaps more able to handle the bruising pressure (and yes, I actually did get bruised). And all for … what? A momentary blockage of the route? Wow.

<b>National Museum of Korea, Seoul. </b> Once I calmed down, I took a subway and walked a short distance to the National Museum of Korea in Seoul, where I crossed the expansive grounds to the entry way, took note of the fact that the museum was hosting a special exhibit of works from the Musee d’Orsay (I doubted that I would have time, but liked knowing that the museum had made these works accessible to the people of Seoul), bought a ticket, and was told that I could get an audio guide once inside. Some of you may have just recognized my error; it took me a bit longer to realize that the ticket I had purchased was for the special exhibit – visits to the permanent collection were free. :-) Of course, I only figured that out while speaking to the woman at the desk for the audioguides to the Musee d’Orsay exhibit. She immediately got on the phone and, before I knew what she was doing, arranged for me to turn in my ticket for a full refund. I decided not to take that opportunity because the mistake was mine, not theirs. And maybe I would have time for a quick walk through….

Soon I found my way to the museum’s permanent collection. Unfortunately, all the English-language audioguides were in use. :-( I confirmed that there would be a tour in English a bit later, got some other information, and began to explore the museum.

<i><b> ***National Museums of Korea: </b> I visited five National Museums of Korea -- those in Seoul, Buyeo, Gongju, Gwangju, and Gyeongju. In each of these locations, I found a large, modern, and well-signed facility with displays spanning from prehistoric through modern times. Each showed a much smaller selection of pieces than would have been feasible given the interior space: The focus seemed to me to be on quality, not quantity. Most (all?) also had at least some interesting pieces (sculptures, temple lanterns, etc.) outside. </i>

I began in the museum’s prehistory section, and proceeded, gallery by gallery, until about a half-hour before the scheduled English tour. After a quick coffee break (the museum’s café actually served decent coffee! :-) ), I met the guide and the one other person who showed up that day for the English tour.

After a very informative tour that lasted about 1.5 hours, I took another coffee break and then finished my exploration of the museum’s permanent collections. When I was ready to leave – I think I’d been there for a bit more than 5 or 5.5 hours – I considered a quick walk through the exhibit of works from the Musee d’Orsay, which is one of my favorite museums in the world. There was a LONG line. No problem! I went to the ticket counter and gave my ticket to the person who was next in line.

<b>Samneung Park, Seoul. </b> If I haven’t already said so, I’m a sucker for UNESCO WHSs, which include the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty. Several sites are part of the inscription; I think this site was the one closest to the heart of Seoul.

This small park included two large tumuli, one for a king that was fronted by a ceremonial walkway and shrine, and one for a queen. The park also held a another small shrine, the building in which the groundskeeper lived, and lots of lovely forested walkways in which magpies and pheasants and chipmonks were merrily going about their ways. From what I read, the king’s tumulus is sourrounded by 12 outer guardian statues; I was only able to glimpse parts of them. The queen’s tomb had fewer guardians, but I was able to see them easily. :-)

<b>Bongeunsa. </b> As noted above, my advance information suggested that Bongeunsa would be a good place to experience the evening Lantern Lighting ceremony that marks Buddha’s Birthday. With a promise to myself that I would avoid ANY part of the temple that looked like it might have a crowd-flow problem, I decided to go.

I loved my time at Bongeunsa! This temple is spread on several levels over the lower reaches of a hill, and it has multiple shrines -- small and large, enclosed and open-air – that are connected by pathways, some broad and some narrow. There were many people there, but everyone was polite and no one seemed rushed and we moved along the various paths quite comfortably. And the weather was perfect for the event. :-)

As I climbed from the main temple area to some of the hillier parts behind it and as twilight approached, people began lighting the lanterns. And as the lights came on, music began. Beyond that, I can’t tell you what the service entailed – I was completely absorbed by what I was seeing.

Like Jogyesa, Bongeunsa had LOTS of small lanterns forming ceilings and walls, and like Jogyesa it had LOTS of large lanterns in various shapes – but more that I found aesthetically pleasing (pairs of cranes, grazing deer) and fewer that were less pleasing (e.g., cartoon characters). As I walked down to the main gate, with all the lanterns of every size now lit, I kept thinking how very, very glad I was that I had come to Bongeunsa that evening!

<b>Yeouido Hangang Park. </b> My original plan had been to go to a place from which I could watch the Bonpo Bridge Fountain while eating dinner, but I had learned that this fountain would be closed because of the tragic ferry disaster. My back-up plan was to take a cruise along the Yangang, starting from a pier in Yeouido Hangang Park.

With the help of yet another very kind Korean, I found my way to a subway stop within walking distance of the park. The walk to the park was a bit longer than I expected, and then there was a LONG walk through the park to the pier. I knew that the last cruise would depart at 10 p.m., so I moved as quickly as I could and reached the pier with minutes to spare -- except that the last boat left at 8 p.m.! :-(

OK, this was, after all, a back-up plan. As I walked back through the park, I took note of just how broad the Han River is – it is WIDE! There were a few others in this large park, evident primarily through bits of voices I could hear in the distance, and there were lights shimmering across the river, and it was pleasant evening – no complaints! :-) I stopped for another meal of street-food – tempura-like shrimp and vegetables with some tasty sides and a can of beer, and a distant view of the Yangang down and through the park as I savored my selections.

I'm really enjoying your report Kja. I'm going back to Korea for my 4th visit in October. While I've traveled around an awful lot of the country on the first 2 trips I was mostly concerned with Ceramics - I'm a potter. Last year I spend a month in Yeoju and while I saw a lot of that area, most of my time was spent in the pottery. For anyone interested in Ceramics its the most wonderful place.

So this year I'm heading back to Yeoju but will also travel down south again and to Seoul of course. I plan on stopping in Gwangju for the museum and Damyang for the bamboo so am looking forward to your report on that section as I haven't been there. I'm going down to Gangjin (Celadon ceramics) and Mokpo (Maritime museum) I'm also picking up lots of tips from you for places I've already been but will probably visit again! Thank you.

I love the museums in SK - they are all really good. Some truly wonderful ceramic ones all around the country as well.

As for movies - I watched a few in trying to improve my lousy Korean language but without much success. I did love "Il Mare" and think its worth looking out for. A few years old now but very nice. They later made an American film based on the Korean one called "The Lake House" I thought the Korean one much nicer.

Looking forward to reading more.

@ MaryW – OMG, South Korea holds some stunning ceramics! – the shapes and glazes and designs, from the Baekje-era through the Goryeon and on through the Joseon.… I’m no expert, and I still found them awesome! As a potter, you must find it a VERY special place to visit. :-) Your planned visit to the Gwangju museum is, in part, for the Chinese celadons? Well worth it, IMO. (And once you see them, I would love to hear your thoughts, given your expertise with Korean celadon.) Have you been to the Ho-Am, the LEEUM, or the Gansong? I think you would find them worth your time. (My visit to the Ho-Am will be covered in my next installment, my visit to the LEEUM in either that or the subsequent installment, and what I was able to see from the Gansong will be covered near the end of my TR.) And thanks for the movie recommendations – I’ll be sure to watch out for them!

<u>Day 5</u>: <b>Day trip to the Ho-Am Museum of Art and Suwon</b>

<b>Ho-Am Art Museum. </b> The Ho-Am Art Museum, part of the Samsung Foundation, isn’t far from the Korean Folk Village, but it had been closed the day I went there. I took a subway and then express bus to Everland, a huge amusement park, from which one can take a free shuttle bus. People at each step of the way were very helpful.

I got off the shuttle bus just beyond the “peacock crossing” sign – a peacock crossing?!? :-o -- and immediately began hearing the piercing cries of peacocks. Can’t say I expected that!

I thought the Ho-Am a thorough delight! The gardens (called Hee Won) were beautiful and filled with artfully arranged sculptures and stone pieces, some as centerpieces, others half hidden in the trees. The exhibits were also very memorable. As with the National Museums, there were far fewer items on display that the space would have allowed, but the pieces that were displayed were exquisite, and it was a joy to see them as focal points. Too, there were touch-screen images next to many of the actual pieces, allowing one to digitally zoom in on details that one would not otherwise have been able to see.

<i><b> ***Cheap labor. </b> While at Ho-Am, and any number of other places, I saw groups of sun-hatted women crouching as they tended to gardens by hand. And these weren’t young women! I can’t imagine how their backs must hurt at the end of a day. I also saw men and women sweeping the leaves off streets in South Korean parks. I had seen similar things in previous trips to the Orient, but as someone from a country where machinery is “cheap” in comparison to labor, it always surprises me to see these labor-intensive activities. I’m not offering any judgments here – just noting what I saw. </i>

What a privilege to be able to see a place like this! As I was leaving, some chipmunks caught my attention and then, finally, a pair of peacocks and a penhen.

Just outside the Ho-Am walls, and apparently still part of the museum, there was a sculpture-lined walkway beside a small lake. As I was returning from my stroll there, I saw a taxi pull into the Ho-Am parking lot. A taxi! I ran and caught it just as it was about to leave. What luck! I had thought I would need to wait for the shuttle bus and return to Everland to get one.

<b>Suwon. </b> Although my taxi driver tried to speak with me, we didn’t have enough shared words in either English or Korean to do more than exchange pleasantries. Still, she was great! I had asked to be taken to a specific Suwon Fortress gate, Paldalmun (the name of which I had with me, spelled in Korean), but she apparently knew that the tourist information office there had recently closed, so she called someone (I have no idea who) and eventually reached an English-speaking woman named Jenni at the palace in Suwon. Jenni agreed to meet us just outside the entrance to the palace. And what a stroke of good fortune for me -- Jenni was awesome! She was there, waiting for me, along with another woman who spoke only a little English. They had a map for me and a brochure or two and the patience to answer a slew of questions. As I prepared to leave, Jenni gave me her phone number (even though I didn’t have a phone) and told me that she would be at the tourist information desk in the palace until 6 p.m. that day.

<b>Suwon Hwaseong (fortress) -- Seojangdae (west command post). </b> To get to the fortress's west command post, I had to climb up an ever steeper and steeper path, and then a very steep set of stairs. I was passed by any number of Koreans who were so fit that they seemed totally unphased. In contrast, I was moving slowly enough that one young man stopped to see if I needed assistance. Bless his heart! The effort was worthwhile: the command post and a surrounding terrace offer magnificent views over Suwon and the surrounding countryside. And there were some gorgeous, ancient trees up there!

Walking partway back down, I came to the place from which I could board a little train for a tour of the fortress. While I waited, I realized that I had misjudged the time: If I took the next train, I would miss a performance that I had wanted to see at the palace; but if I returned to the palace, I would have to climb back up – growl! Down I went.

<b>Suwon – around the town. </b> I had some time to explore the town of Suwon a bit first. Just to the base of the path I had used to access Seojangdae was a sign for <b>“artisans’ street” </b> (or something like that) – a few blocks of galleries and craft shops, some of which seemed to sell high quality work. Many of the buildings in these few blocks had been surfaced in something into which bits of tile had been embedded. It wasn’t uninteresting, but it was, IMO, oddly discordant with the shop fronts and seemed to create a visual cacophony more than anything else. JMO.

The huge and impressive city gate called <b>Paldalmun</b> is now in the center of a busy traffic circle and is surrounded by a market. Paldalmun reminded me of some of the city gates I had seen in China, and I walked around it for a while before turning to the market. Ah – my first Korean market!

<i><b> ***The chaos of Korean markets: </b> Although I don’t like to shop, I love to roam through traditional markets, taking pictures and admiring the produce and seeing how vendors and their clients interact. And traditional Korean markets offered me those opportunities in abundance. But if there is any order to them, I never discerned it! I would pass a produce stand on one side and bins of dried spices or beans on the other, then women on the floor or sidewalk or whatever with plates of herbs or some vegetables in front of them, and then a table overflowing with shoes, and then a fishmonger…. The array of hot food stands and baskets of dried fish and tables heaped with bras and more women on their haunches selling bowls of strawberries and truck beds filled with garlic and lots and lots of things that I didn’t recognize at all seemed to me to be completely random in just about every market I visited while in South Korea. Fascinating! </i>

<b>”MUYE24KI” (a performance of military arts).</b> I reached the palace just after this performance of military arts began. A group of very athletic young men demonstrated their skill with various deadly implements -- spears and swords and bows and arrows -- all with leaps and spins and colorful costumes and beating drums. Wonderful!

There were announcements over a PA system that provided information about what we were seeing, and the gentleman who was standing beside me kindly took it upon himself to translate. He would listen intently to the Korean description, and then tell me what he had heard. I’m sure he never noticed that the announcements switched to English immediately after providing the Korean description – and bless his heart, I hope he never realizes! His English was very good (if not as good as that of the official announcer’s), and honestly, the stuff was pretty easily understood even without translation, but OMG, I sincerely appreciated his efforts on my behalf!

As I was thanking him, the woman who had accompanied Jenni earlier that day spotted me and came to say hello, and then Jenni saw us and came over. I learned that her service at the palace’s tourist information desk is as a volunteer. Awesome! She answered more of my questions (the patterned walls of the artisans’ district are of recent origin, the restaurant she recommends, etc.) and she again said that she would stay at the TI desk until 6. Earlier in the day, I thought that what she meant was that she would be WORKING until 6 -- which seems substantially different to me than a volunteer saying she would STAY until 6. I tried to assure her that she had been extraordinarly helpful already and that she should not stay on my behalf. She repeated that she would be there in case I needed something. I could find no way to dissuade her.

<b>Suwon’s public toilets. </b> Yes, Suwon’s public toilets deserve special mention. As I understand it, a man who was once mayor of Suwon commissioned multiple public toilets in advance of the city’s hosting of the 2002 World Cup. The first of three that I visited while in the city was just outside the palace, and was designed to ensure privacy even though it had a picture window that afforded a view of a lovely garden backed by a high wall. The two others also offered pleasant, private views. VERY nice! :-)

<b>Suwon Hwaseong (fortress). </b> I made my way back uphill and bought my ticket for the Hwaseong Trolley, aka “dragon train.” I was a little early for the next trolley’s departure, and so I looked through the gates of a nearby, but closed, shrine.

The trolley was a great way to explore Suwon’s fortress, in part because it takes its passengers around the key extant features of the walls, in part because there are announcements in several languages (including English) about what it is one sees, and in part because many of the passengers – at least on the day that I was there – were children who were clearly enjoying every moment. The trolley gave me my first glimpse of Suwon’s “water gate,” to which I knew I wanted to return!

I got off the trolley at the end of its route and then started walked back along the wall. Soon I reached a delightful pavillion with lovely views over the water gate, among other things. A number of people were relaxing here, including a group of older men who were playing some kind of game while one played a flute-like instrument. They invited me to join them and share their snacks. I declined, but greatly appreciated their offer!

From there, it was just a short walk to the water gate -- Hwahongmun, an arched city gate that bridges a stream. How pleasant! On the side outside the city, the stream meanders through a field and then disappears behind some woods. To the inner (city) side, the stream drops substantially into a straight channel with walkways to either side. Trees overhang its edges and there were shrubs and flowers and birds and exercise equipment….

<i><b> ***Public exercise equipment: </b> I was to see exercise equipment – bars for chin-ups and bars for leg-lifts and so forth in any number of public spaces in Korea, and I often saw people – usually older men – using it. Cool! </i> :-)

Although I wasn’t ready for dinner yet, I located the restaurant that Jenni had recommended with the help of some passers-by. I then walked beside the lovely, channeled stream until I reached the center of Suwon, where I climbed to street level. It was only a few blocks to the bell tower just outside the palace, where I paused to appreciate the bell’s details and those of its pavillion. The volunteer docent with whom I had toured the National Museum in Seoul had made a point of noting that, unlike Chinese or Japanese bells, Korean bells have a hollow tube at the top. The tube is parallel to the chain from which the bell hangs, and was believed to improve the bell’s acoustical properties. I looked, but couldn’t see such a tube on this bell.

<b>Hwaseong Haenggung (palace). </b> I reached the palace just after 5:30, and the woman at the ticket desk tried to dissuade me because the palace would close at 6. I thanked her, but assured her that I understood. Sure enough, Jenni was at the TI desk, and when she saw me, she exclaimed, “You came!” I was very glad to be able to let her know what I had seen that day and how much her advice had meant to me, and that I had found, and planned to dine at, the restaurant that she recommended.

With one last question – which of the palace buildings was the one (and there was only one) that was original? (the rest were reconstructions) – I began a brief exploration of the Hwaseong Haenggung. I was glad to see that one original building, and to get a bit of a sense of what the rest was like, and to see what remains of an ancient tree that was once viewed as a protector of the palace. (I love the care accorded venerable old trees in parts of the Orient!)

<b>Yeonpo Galbi (barbecued ribs).</b> Suwon is known for it’s barbecued ribs – galbi -- and the restaurant Jenni recommended, which was also mentioned in several of my guidebooks, was Yeonpo Galbi, located just steps from the water gate. I had been warned by my guidebooks that galbi would not be inexpensive here; it was about $39 ($35 for the galbi, $4 for a large beer).

There was an electric charcoal burner in the middle of my table, which the server lit as soon as I ordered. Soon, she served a plethora of side dishes (“banchan”). And then, once the grill was hot, she served two ribs, which had been cut to a length of (perhaps) 5” and were wrapped with the attached strip of meat and fat. She unrolled them and placed them on the grill, along with a cluster of mushrooms. She came to the table with some frequency, first flipping the meat and then using a set of tongs and shears (which remained at the table) to cut the meat from the ribs and, later, to cut the meat into bite-size pieces. It was fun to watch, and the meat and mushrooms and banchan were delicious!

As I was paying, a small boy came over to me and said, very clearly, “My name is Leo. I am 6 years old.” I told him my name, to which he responded, “I am missing two teeth. See?” And he proceeded to show me. How cute! :-)

Before leaving, I showed the man at the desk the Korean name of the bus stop I needed to reach. He consulted his smartphone, and then insisted on walking about a block with me to an intersection from which he could point me in the correct direction. Have I mentioned that I found Koreans to be extraordinarily helpful!?!

<b>Seoul – Hwanggudon, aka Wongudan. </b> Seoul’s “Temple of Heaven” is a small structure, similar in style to Beijing’s spectacular Temple of Heaven, tucked into a space beside the Westin Chosun Hotel. I had read that it was open 24/7; not! :-( But I could see part of it, from not too far away, by walking along a wall. It certainly is NOT the Temple of Heaven, but it had some similar features; I didn’t feel that I had wasted my time to come catch a glimpse of it.

I took the subway back to the area in which I was staying and then took some time to roam the back alleys nearby. I had reserved a room in a nearby hanok (a traditional Korean house) for a few nights at the end of my trip, and wanted to find it. Wow, that wasn’t easy, but it was fascinating! Just a few steps from any of the major streets in the area took me to narrow alleys where tiny shop fronts alternated with gated doors and low stairs on which a few neighbors might be sitting, quietly chatting; an occasional high rise (office or hotel) took up space, and far less frequently, a small garden plot…. I don’t think the zoning regulations were similar to those where I live. :-)

South Korean ceramics are fantastic - so many potters too and everyone buys nice handmade tableware including the restaurants. The area I stayed last year to work with a master potter is in Yeoju/Icheon not far from Seoul and has over 600 studios and unlike studios in my home where we tend to work alone, they all have a number of staff. That area is just one of many major centres. My first 2 visits came from invitations to attend the Gangjin Celadon Festival - Gangjin is the home of Goryeo celadons and considered "first under heaven" with good reason. There is a great centre/museum there. Its a very small town (by Korean standards) but interesting and near to Mokpo (great maritime museum) Boseong tea fields etc. -about 1 hour south of Gwangju.

Other wonderful museums/galleries are the Clayarch Gimhae for architectural clay with the most wonderful cladding on the whole building. Its made from glazed kiln shelves by Shin Sang Ho who is described as the Korean Picasso. I had the good fortune to meet him and see his studio and workshop on one trip. Next door to the Clayarch is another ceramics museum.

The Onggi village (food storage pots) near Ulsan is good and the Living Ware Museum in Yeoju is probably my favorite for its contemporary studio ceramics and really wonderful display.

Loved the Leeum, Gyeongju and National Museum. The last two both have some duck shaped vessels that I always visit as a priority.

I haven't been to Suwon yet but I'm looking at it for this trip if I can get the time. Your report is making it go up the list.

People really are so helpful aren't they. I have had much the same experiences as you with folk going well out of their way to make sure I'm okay.

I'm just loving your report and wait impatiently for more

So impressed with how good your research was! You saw much more than I did.

@ MaryW – Sounds like you have been to a number of places in South Korea that proved quite inspirational to you and that have provided you with priceless opportunities to pursue your craft. How wonderful! And you must be quite skilled to have twice earned the honor of an invitation to the Gangjin Celadon Festival -- congrats!

I, too, saw the duck-shaped vessels at several museums and developed a real fondness for them. And I just googled the Clayarch Gimhae – awesome! It's now firmly on my list for "next time." Thank you for bringing it to my attention, and for your kind words about my TR.


@ thursdaysd – It helped that I was visiting just one country for an entire month, rather than trying to plan an around-the-world trip. The planning THAT would take boggles my mind!


<u>Day 6</u>: <b>Seoul to Daejeon </b>

<b> Itaewon. </b> I walked through a small part of Itaewon briefly; there were interesting shops and lots of restaurants and it looked like a lively area.

<b>LEEUM Samsung Museun of Art. </b> The LEEUM, like the Ho-Am, is part of the Samsung Foundation, and there were decided similarities – the pieces on display were of exceptional quality, often with adjacent digital touch-screen technology.

Unlike the other museums I visited in Korea, the LEEUM had a building devoted to contemporary art that included both Korean and Western pieces. (There are, of course, other contemporary art museums in Seoul and other parts of South Korea; this is the only one that I visited.) I readily admit that I don’t know enough about contemporary art to fully appreciate it, and indeed, I find it hard to appreciate some of it at all! ;-) But some pieces do speak to me, and this museum had several that I found quite compelling.

Too, the LEEUM is positioned within several interconnected buildings that are notable for their architecture. The main stairway is reminiscent of the Guggenheim in NYC. The winding corridor isn’t quite so broad and the inside of that corridor is walled, with long narrow windows that entice one to look into the central core. The building that houses the contemporary collection makes great use of a limited number of carefully positioned picture windows to bring leafy exteriors inside.

Very enjoyable!

<b>Dongdaemun Yangnueong (medicine/herbs market). </b> This market area is massive – block after block of shops and covered markets and street-side stalls. And even if there was an area that was MOSTLY herbs and medicines, the “usual” chaos seemed to apply.

I have NO idea what much of this stuff was! Bags and baskets and bins of various herbs and seeds and small pieces of branches (for their bark, I believe) and roots and dried fruits and creepy-looking bottled ginseng and ground stuff in various colors and why do so many vendors have two different adjacent containers that seem to display the SAME reddish thing? And (of course) intermixed with these herbs and traditional medicine ingredients were vendors selling just about everything that one might eat and a lot that one might wear.

I love taking pictures in markets – but I try to be careful to do so only with permission. I learned the Korean word for “OK” in advance of the trip, and made a decided effort to ask “OK?” while pointing to the goods for sale, trying to be clear that I wasn’t asking to take pictures of the vendors themselves. Almost all the vendors smiled and said, OK! So many laughed that I often thought they were more surprised that I asked than anything else. I even thought that some of the vendors thought that they were agreeing to let me take a picture of them, and oh my, I was tempted! – but I preferred to let them be “disappointed” if they thought I would take a picture of them and didn’t, than to have them be upset if they thought I'd said I would <u>not</u> take a picture of them and then did.

As I recall, only two vendors refused to let me take a picture. One man leapt from the back of his dried fish shop to say, “No, no!” even before I asked. What was that about!?! And one woman said, and gestured, “NO” very clearly, and she immediately stepped in front of my camera. Oh -- the meat she was selling was from a dog's hind leg. I'm willing to guess that her experience of Westerners had not been entirely positive. I moved on.

I spent more than an hour roaming the streets and alleys and corridors of this fascinating market, got incredibly (but happily) disoriented, and was (of course) kindly helped to a subway station when I was ready to go.

As I was boarding my subway, a woman smiled and said something like, “Did you enjoy [xxx]? I saw you there!” She looked familiar, but I couldn’t place her and hadn’t heard what the “xxx” was -- but I immediately concluded that she couldn't possibly be referring to the chaos at Jogyesa, so I could honestly answer: “Oh yes! I enjoyed it VERY much! Thank you so much for asking and for remembering me!” I had time to compliment her city and its residents before she reached her station and wished me a good trip. When I later reflected on this brief interchange, I realized that if someone in my home city in the U.S. approached me as this woman did, I would have found it decidedly creepy. Instead, although disconcerting, I experienced it as a genuinely warm and welcoming moment.

I returned to my hotel, retrieved my suitcase, made my way to the nearest elevator access to the subway system, and on to Seoul Station. [I returned to Seoul at the end of my trip, so if you are interested, look for more information later in this report.]

<b><u>DAEJEON. </b></u> The bullet train (KTX) from Seoul to Daejeon was nearly empty when I claimed my seat 10 minutes before it was to leave. It filled up completely just minutes before its scheduled departure. The comfortably ride took about an hour; I reached Daejeon at about 6:30 p.m. and soon found my way to the subway.

Unfortunately, the Daejeon subway system is not handicapped-accessible, so the only way to take my wheeled suitcase to the subway level was by stairs. At this point in my life, my rule is that if I can’t carry it, it doesn’t go, so I knew I could carry my luggage. What was difficult was declining all the offers from those who wanted to help! I finally decided that it would be best for all involved if I accepted assistance, and I did so at both ends of my subway ride. So -- my sincere thanks to the men who carried my suitcase. :-)

One other note about the Daejeon subway system: Once you use your token or card to access a turnstyle, a bird-call signals that you are free to move forward, and from what I could tell, each turnstyle was a different “bird.” Very nice!

<b>Benikea Hotel Daelim. </b> My TA review:

“I spent 2 nights in a deluxe double for single use at the Daelim Hotel. 



"While there, I greatly appreciated the efforts of the staff, who spoke English well enough to help answer my questions. As one example, I wanted to taste samgyetang, for which Daejeon is known, but which is often only served for 2 or more people. A woman at the Dealim’s desk helped find a restaurant that would serve it for one person and printed out the directions for me to get there. Perfect! (And OMG, it was tasty!)



"The Daelim Hotel is near a subway station and is near an area with restaurants and other places that were lively in the evening. It was not particularly convenient to the bus or train stations I used to move to / around / from the area, but Daejeon is large enough that it might not be possible to select a single, convenient location. 



"My room easily met my minimal needs. I would have appreciated a few more hangers and a bit more rack space on which to hang things to dry, but I believe these limitations are common to Korean hotel rooms. 



"One small criticism: I found the breakfast buffet disappointing: Seriously overcooked ‘scrambled’ eggs; heated cocktail sausages; white bread you could toast and top with packaged jam.”

<b>Dinner (samgyetang) at Daejeon Dong-Sung Samgyetang. </b> As that hotel review indicates, a woman at the Dealim’s desk helped me identify a nearby restaurant that would serve samgyetang – a chicken and ginseng soup – for one. Daejeon Dong-Sung Samgyetang was a just a few blocks away, blocks that included some lively shops and restaurants and nightspots.

When I thought I was in the right block, I showed the name of the restaurant to an attendant at a parking lot, and he confirmed that I was heading in the correct direction. Walking, walking … tap on shoulder. I had inadvertently passed the restaurant, the man from the parking lot noticed that I had done so, and came to let me know. Once again: How kind!

The restaurant was just a small, local eatery that did a brisk business selling samgyetang, and OMG, that was good! The owner and his staff were very welcoming, too. The chicken in this flavorful soup is not in bite-sized pieces—it is whole, =-o , so I tried to take a discrete peek at a group of people seated nearby so I could learn how they ate it -- only to find all four of them looking at me with varied expressions of curiosity and puzzlement. We laughed, and then they used gestures to show me what to do. Worked for me!

<b>Footbath – 1st attempt. </b> Daejeon is home to one of Korea’s oldest known hot springs. There is a huge spa complex, but I wasn’t looking for a spa treatment. I had, however, read about an outdoor area where one can go and soak one’s feet in thermal waters. I could go for that!

I boarded the subway for a longer-than-expected ride – more than ½ hour, as I recall – to the area near the spa. I didn’t have precise directions; just that it was next to the Yongin Hotel. That was fairly easy to find: although I hadn't expected to find that it is currently closed, it still had visible signs. I circled it – no footbath!?! So I went I went into another hotel and asked the woman if she spoke English -- no. I knew how to say “where is” and I knew the word for “water,” but perhaps you will understand that the words for “footbath” and “toe-dip” had not made my must-learn vocabulary list! So I pointed to my feet and the woman literally burst into laughter and pointed me in the right direction. It was a block away – and it had just closed for the night. :-( Sigh. At least I now knew how to get there.

@ MaryF -- "I haven't been to Suwon yet but I'm looking at it for this trip if I can get the time." -- Suwon in easy day trip from Seoul -- perhaps as little as 1.5 hours or so each way depending on your starting point....

<u>Day 7</u>: <b>Day trip to Buyeo from Daejeon</b>

It took me a few moments to find the right bus stop – I started on the wrong side of the street – but I was soon on board for a trip that took about 1.5 hours, during which I caught enticing glimpses of dragon-backed ridges in the distance and farmland and rice paddies in the foreground.

<b>Buyeo National Museum. </b> Although the collection at this museum is quite small, I thought the gilt-bronze Baekje incense burner absolutely exquisite. If it had been the ONLY thing I saw in Buyeo, I would have been a bit disappointed – but only a bit. IMO, it easily merited the effort it took to see it.

<b> Gungnamji Pond. </b> This ancient park has a set of lotus ponds separated by narrow, raised, iris-lined strips of land that serve as walkways. My first thought was that it must be lovely once the lotus bloom – and then I noticed that some ponds did have blooming lotus! I roamed from pond to pond, some filled with white or pink or deep rose blooms and some where lotus were just beginning to bloom and others where lotus were just beginning to spread their leaves, and I listened to the sounds of frogs jumping into the water and hovering insects (was that huge red thing a dragonfly?) and magpies and admired cranes cooling their feet in the ponds, and I saw one crane swoop into the air just after I noticed him. :-)

At the far end of the park, there is a very pleasant pavillion on a small “island” in a tiny lake, reached by an ever-so-gently arched walk. Perfect! Several people were enjoying the shade and the views, including a very old woman who was accompanied by two middle-aged women. They took a few moments to greet me and we mimed our shared appreciation for the place.

<b>Busosan. </b> This “mountain” has various shrines and pavillions (some with wonderful views over the river that skirts its base) and shaded walking paths, and it was a very pleasant place to spend some time. For reasons unknown, Busosan was free that day – bonus!

A fair number of other people were there, generally in groups, and it seemed that someone in just about every group took a moment to greet me, usually in English, and if I responded, then every member of the group took his/her turn in greeting me. If someone in a group spoke English, s/he often stopped to ask me where I was from or ask how long I would be in Korea or in some other way engage me, however briefly, in conversation. I felt genuinely welcomed. So nice!

<b>Baegmagang, aka Geumgang. </b> After making my way up part of Busosan, I headed down toward the river in the hope that there would be a boat. I had read that they exist, but that they only make the trip if enough people show up. I did NOT want to have to climb back up again!!! So when I saw a boat pull out when I was very near the base of the hill, and near the end of the hours during which I believe the boats operate, I prepared myself for the worst. I reached the ticket desk, and the woman signaled “no!” :-( I was SO tired that I almost cried. And then she explained that I didn’t need to pay – the park was free that day. Of course! I had reached an entrance to the park, not the ticket desk for the boats. Thankfully, the boats were still running; I bought a ticket and soon boarded. I thoroughly enjoyed the relaxing ride.

<b>Gudeurae Park. </b> The boat landed at one end of Gudeurae Park, an outdoor, river-side sculpture park with what I thought a surprising number and variety of public works of art. There were many people strolling around, or enjoying picnics or barbecues, or even camping on the pleasant grounds. And it seemed that every time I decided to go to the exit, I saw something else that enticed me to explore just a bit further.

<i><b> ***Public sculpture. </b> I was impressed by how much public art I encountered in South Korea. I found sculptures not just in sculpture gardens, like this one, but also along many busy streets in various cities I visited. I sometimes found it hard to appreciate the works, because there was so much else going on visually for me – shops and signs and traffic and people and sometimes I didn’t even realize there WAS a work of art in front of me until I nearly walked into it --- but it was there and much of it was quite interesting! </i> :-)

<b>Dinner at Kudarae, aka Goodarea, Dal Ssambap. </b> I wanted to try dal ssambap – a local specialty – before leaving Buyeo and had written down the name of this recommended restaurant, but wasn’t sure how to find it. I decided that I would just keep my eyes open after leaving the sculpture park and either select a restaurant or find a place where I could ask about options. LOL, the 2nd or 3rd building to my right was the place I had flagged! I was seated immediately and soon given a ridiculously extensive array of small plates – the banchan. Honestly, I could have made a very filling and satisfying – and delicious! – meal just from these “side dishes.”

If you order dal ssambap, you are given a plate of greens – a wide array of lettuces and fresh herbs – along with some seasonings (such as red sauce and sesame sauce, garlic, spring onions, etc.) and rice (in this case, cooked with black beans) and, if you ordered it, meat. (I ordered pork dal ssambap). You place a piece of lettuce and some of the fresh herbs on your hand, put some rice and meat and whatever seasonings you want on top; roll the lettuce up and tuck in the ends; and then eat it. Once again – OMG, that was tasty! It cost about $13, plus $3 for a large beer.

<b>Return to Daejeon. </b> It wasn’t far to the bus terminal from this restaurant. As I looked at my map to confirm the directions while crossing a street, I realized why one should never do that: I tripped, and only by the greatest of good fortune did I avoid falling on my face or serously injuring an ankle. I immediately thought of thursdaysd, who had to deal with a sprained ankle on her trip that included South Korea. I was VERY lucky – I recovered my balance without falling, without getting hit by a car, and without injuring my ankle, although it appreciated a bit of pampering for the next day or so. Lesson learned!

I reached the bus station without further incident and didn’t have to wait too long for my return to Daejeon. There are several bus terminals in Daejeon, and I wasn’t sure which was the final destination of my particular bus. So I hailed a taxi….

<i><b> ***Taxi metering and charges. </b> I didn’t think to check the metering system everywhere I went, but in many places, the minimal fare covers a certain amount time, with additional charges thereafter also based on time. Many of the taxis in which I rode had a “countdown” clock that allowed one to see how much more time one had before the fare would increase. Cool! And with only one exception, the driver of every metered taxi I took immediately gave me change, no matter how little, and even sometimes rounded in my favor. So, for example, if the fare was 9,600 won, I got at least 400 won back, if not 500 won. There was NO expectation of a tip. </i>

<b>Footbath – 2nd attempt. </b> Not knowing exactly where I was when i reached Daejeon, I thought a taxi the best option. Unfortunately, I still did not know the words for “footbath” or “toe dip.” But I did remember that the place I wanted to go was by the Yongin Hotel. Unfortunately, the driver knew that it was closed. :-( I showed him my map, on which I had placed an X to mark the spot. I said “Yongin Hotel” once again, he said “You want hotel?” – what the heck! I said yes, and off we went. The drive – through traffic – took more than a half hour. I just hoped we were going in more or less the right direction. (I kept telling myself, with mantra-like repitition, “it's an adventure… it's an adventure….”)

As I began to see signs for the spa complex, the driver said the name of a hotel. I responded, “Yongin Hotel.” He tried another hotel name; I said, “Yongin Hotel.” He gave yet a third name – Oh, I think that’s the hotel where I spoke with the woman who knew what I meant when I pointed to my feet! So I said yes. He looked stunned. And then there we were, right in front of the defunct Yongin Hotel, and I asked him to let me off right there. Poor guy – I’m sure he thought I was crazy, but he got me to where I wanted to go!

It was only a short block to the still-open footbath. I took a moment to observe the rituals and then joined in. There is an area where one washes one’s feet and calves as assiduously as possible, so – like a Japanese bath -- everyone knows that you are clean. And then you step in and carry your belongings to a place where you can sit on the edge.

The water was nicely warm as it circulated through this tree-shrouded pool. The floor of the pool was made of rounded cobbles that proved perfect for massaging one’s feet. There were people of all ages enjoying this space, including a little boy who (of course) loved splashing his parents and older couples who leaned against one another.... I remember one elegantly dressed woman who arrived in spike heels that she kicked off before preparing to enter, as though she didn’t care if she ever saw those shoes again!

It was hard to leave this comforting place, but at least I did so with happy feet! :-)

We will have a 1 day stop at Jeju Island while cruising this coming October. Would you have any recommendations for that day? We'd like to DIY it if possible.

I am really enjoying your TR! You are a very good writer! I am looking forward to the Gwangju and Jeju portions of your report as I have been to Gwangju and will be on Jeju in September. I read your post when you were planning and I mentioned Gwangju and the tea plantation. I wondered about your trip and where you decided to go. Keep it coming!

Those big lotus ponds around the country are just wonderful. They have been a major inspiration for my work the last few years.

Did you come across lotus tea. Served in a large (and usually beautiful handmade) bowl The whole lotus flower opens up from the dried one. Looks beautiful and is meant to be good for your health. Didn't have much flavour though.

I love dal ssambap. Was told you are meant to put the whole parcel in your mouth for one bite. People did but I could never assemble a decent parcel that I could get in in one. Two bites meant a great danger of dropping bits everywhere

Love your footbath story!

@ whitecloudorillia – I don’t think you should have any problem visiting Jeju Island on your own – it is a major international tourist destination, with a well-developed tourism infrastructure, lots of signage and announcements in English (and other languages), lots of English-speaking people, and both buses and taxis for getting around. While I can’t make any recommendations for your day – that would really depend on YOUR interests, I can and will tell you what I did while on the island. (That section of my trip report has yet to be written, but is coming up!) There were a number of things that many tourists to Jeju-Do that I did NOT do, either because they were not of sufficient interest to me (e.g., climbing Mt. Halla, going to Udo, or visiting the Teddy Bear Musuem) or because of when I went (many of the gardens would not have been at their best when I was there) – so DO think through your priorities a bit regardless of what I write. I hope my comments prove useful to you, and do let me know!

@ SeeHag – Thanks so much for your compliments! I remember your helpful remarks about Gwangju and Boseong as I was planning this trip. As you noted, the food in/around Gwangju was wonderful – among the best I had on this trip, and that says a LOT! And the first time I saw those long strips of fabric by at the entrance to a love hotel’s parking garage, I laughed out loud and thought of your description of them. :-) Wasn’t your son to get married in South Korea? I hope all went well.

@ MaryW – I can easily understand why you would find lotus ponds inspirational! They can be SO very lovely!!! I don’t think I’ve ever had lotus tea -- I have had tea in which a dried flower is placed and opens up, but I don’t think they were lotus. On the other hand, I love lotus root and was glad that it was among the banchan at many restaurants. As for dal ssambap, I definitely know what you mean about that danger! But there’s no way I could have wrapped one of those little parcels tightly enough to eat in a single bite – 3 or 4 bites was more my “style” (or lack thereof). ;-) I have another ssambab story from Gyeongju, so you might watch for that….

@ Kathie -- thanks! Sometimes the unexpected moments are among the best, aren’t they? :-)

<u>Day 8</u>: <b>Start in Daejeon; visit Gongju and Magoksa; move on to Gwangju</b>

With an ankle that was only a little sore (thank goodness!), I checked out of my hotel and left my luggage at the desk. I took the subway to the applicable bus station; and then a bus to Gongju (about ½ hour away). Gongju's bus station was some distance from the heart of city, and although there are local buses I could have used, I chose to take a taxi to make the most of my time. As I recall, the drive to the museum took 10 or 15 minutes.

<b>Gongju National Museum. </b> The Gongju National Museum was another modern museum with a very select array of spatiously-arrayed exhibits and an English-speaking staff member (Kim) who ensured that I made the most of my visit. Highlights of this museum include artifacts from the Baekje-era tomb of King Muryeong and his queen, circa early 6th century. Once again, I was awed by the craftsmanship of the artisans of that day! The museum also has a collection of other works from the area, spanning prehistory forward, with good English signage.

I met Kim again before leaving the museum, and was glad to be able to assure him that I appreciated seeing the treasures it holds. He gave me his number in case I needed help later in the day, made sure I had the names of places I would need written out in Korean, called a taxi to take me to Magoksa, and then walked me out. Once again (I think it worth repeating): How nice!

<b>Magoksa. </b> My taxi driver didn’t speak English, but clearly communicated his love of driving as he swept past the ticket gate for Magoksa and navigated the winding turns up the hill toward the temple. He didn’t speed, and he didn’t take unnecessary risks, but he certainly seemed to enjoy taking advantage of each and every opportunity the pavement provided! BTW, this was the ONLY taxi driver I encountered in South Korea who did not give me change – the meter showed 21,900 won, I gave him 22,000 won, he looked at me with a question in his eyes; I smiled, nodded, and got out. Basically, it was my choice.

From there, it was just a short walk to an arbor-like tunnel covered in lanterns, and then another, and another! Beautiful clusters of little lotus-shaped decorations made of deep rose silk with green “leaves” hung from various trees around the grounds. The main temple gate is by a very pleasant curve in a stream, and the arched bridge and gate were also decorated for dharma – even the statues of turtles sunning in the creek were festively adorned.

The things I remember most about Magoksa, other than that wonderful entryway, were the gorgeous stream-side pavillion that housed its bell, gong, drum, and fish; the intimacy of the main courtyard; the venerable and ancient stupa that held sway there; and the stunning and enormous painting to the rear of one of the temple’s altars (thanks to the Moon Guide for advising me to take a peek!). And the hospitable young English-speaking monk (Ilya) who introduced himself to me and chatted with me and who kept offering me various treats until I finally accepted a small lotus-shaped bun filled with red bean paste, and OMG, that was delicious!

There were a fair number of people around and everyone seemed to be enjoying it – understandably so! Finally ready to go – and very glad I had decided to stop here, even if it meant arriving at my next destination later than I would normally prefer – I began the long, winding, wooded walk into the town below the temple. There were a few vendors here and there, but not many. Once I exited the temple (I stopped to pay the entry fee – it seemed only fair!), I entered an area with lots of souvenier shops and restaurants and people who were very helpful when I asked for directions to the bus. And then, OMG, I bet that’s it!!! I began running and thought maybe the driver saw me and then it pulled out and I waved again, and bless that driver’s heart, he stopped. :-)

<b>Transit to Gwangju. </b> An older gentleman on the bus at Magoksa first very politely corrected my pronunciation of “Gongju” and then made sure I knew where to get off. Once at the main Gongju bus station, I bought a ticket for the next bus to Daejeon. Only as the bus was boarding did I realize that I had forgotten to say WHICH Daejeon bus station I wanted – hadn’t I learned that lesson the night before?!? I ran back to the desk, where the very nice clerk quickly changed my ticket.

I reached Daejeon, took a subway to my hotel, retrieved my suitcase, took a taxi to the bus station that I needed for this leg of my trip, and was soon waiting, ticket in hand, for my bus to Gwangju (which took close to 2 hours). Once there, I hailed a taxi to...

<b>Gwangju -- Geumsoojang Tourist Hotel. </b> My TA review:

“I spent 4 nights in a Western standard double for single use at the Geumsoojang Tourist Hotel. It met my needs, but was less convenient than I had hoped. 


• The location was not particularly good in my opinion. It was 10 or 15 minutes walk to the train station and, unless all my walks took me in the wrong directions, it wasn’t particularly near any restaurants except the one within the hotel, which was fine, but a bit pricier than other restaurants I saw in Gwangju. There was also a café within the hotel that served what seemed to me an overpriced “continental” breakfast (coffee, juice, and toast for 8,000 KRW). 


• Although the bedroom and bathroom seemed clean, the room’s entry area was definitely in need of vacuuming and remained so throughout my stay. 


• The room had some quirks – the ondal floor was very pleasant; the lack of a bedside table or lamp was not. The bathroom had sufficient counter space, but no hook for a robe and very little space to hang one’s towels or anything else. There was a fixture above the toilet that prevented the toilet lid from remaining up, even when one was seated, and the toilet paper was not positioned conveniently for anyone in a seated position. 


• Although I had exchanged a few e-mails with the hotel in advance of my stay in English, the only English that was spoken by anyone at the desk while I was there was the bare minimum needed to check in. English was not critical, but it would have been nice to be able to ask a few questions about Gwangju and to confirm some directions, and the lack of a shared language (which I recognize is a shared responsibility!) prevented me from communicating the problems I encountered with the room, and so prevented them from offering a solution.”

It was on the late side when I reached the hotel, a bit too late for the hotel’s restaurant and, as just noted, if there were other local options, I didn’t find them. There was a 24/7 store just a block or so away, so I was able to buy some snacks and a beer, which I brought back to my room. I have often found that the first few hours in a new location are among the most stressful of my travel moments, and I needed that insight on this particular evening! Still, all things considered, I have no regrets about how I spent my time that day: I would have easily given up a dinner for EITHER the Gongju National Museum OR Magoksa; that I got to see both of them was more than recompense for a quick meal of convenience-store items and a few moments of frustration!

kja, My son did the legal wedding in December and we were originally going to go in May or June but they couldn't decide what they wanted to do and having a reception in Seoul obligated them to invite lots of family and friends and they didn't want to spend the money and that wasn't what they wanted. We are going in September to meet her family. We are all going to Jeju island where they have rented a beautiful looking large home on airbnb. I hope it turns out better than the Love Motel! Had I known you had decided on Gwangju I would have asked my son for some recommendations but it sounds like you are a great researcher! Looking forward to more Gwangju & Jeju! I have been looking at pictures of Jeju on Pinterest and it looks beautiful.

SeeHag -If I might interrupt, could I ask for a recommendation for a cheap hotel in Gwangju. I heard the Ballad which is a love motel near the bus station is okay. I'd be very interested in your son's opinions. Its for a older couple and we may well have a young korean man with us - so 2 rooms needed - probably just one or two nights so not critical. We will be coming or going to Gangjin where we will spend a few nights and going out to Damyang probably only on a day trip.

I'd been waiting to see where Kja stayed but obviously not one of the more convenient ones unfortunately