kja I have loved reading your trip report. I am new to the Asia forum but have enjoyed reading all I can about South Korea, especially Busan. My daughter will be playing piano/singing at the Park Hyatt in Busan for four months starting mid October. My husband and I are considering visiting her for a week at New Year. We live in New Zealand, my daughter in New York. Busan is about the same flight time as from NZ to Los Angeles.

I will our report to her so she can have an idea of the subway, light rail, and places to visit when she is Busan and South Korea in general.

@ gertie – Wow, you’ve traveled so extensively! And it sounds like you have been very successful in finding ways to adapt your style to your destinations. I have yet to visit many of the places you mention – I’ll be looking to you for advice when I plan those trips!


@ nelsonian – thanks for your kind words, and welcome to Fodor’s! Your daughter must have a streak of adventuresomeness, in addition to musicality, to spend several months in another country. I bet she’ll have a blast! And I think you and your husband will enjoy Busan if you decide to visit her while she is there. The “installment” that follows covers my last day in Busan itself, but there are a LOT of places that you can visit as days trips from Busan if you choose to do so, including some of the places that I visited after my time in Busan. Even Seoul is less than 2.5 hours away!


<u>Day 18</u>: <b>Busan</b>

As forecast, there was rain when I woke up and through much of this day. I got coffee and pastry at the Starbuck’s I had noted the day before heading out.

<b> Yonggungsa.</b> Yonggungsa is, I believe, unusual because it perches in a sea-side cove. To get there, I took the subway to Haeundae and then a bus. This was one of the few buses I took for which I had no good information about how long the ride would take, so I felt compelled to pay attention to everything I could see to either side. It was a LONG ride, so by the time I got to the stop for Yonggungsa, I had seen so many similar intersections that I couldn’t have begun to identify the “right” one. There was only one up-side, that I know of, to my obsessive diligence: When the bus driver left us off about ½ block AFTER the entrance to Yonggungsa, I knew which way to go because I had just seen it. There was a short walk up a hill, and then a short walk down, and then a shop-lined lane leading to the temple….

The entrance to the temple is lined by a row of zodiac statues, and even though it took a while to see them (because every visitor seemed to want to have his/her picture taken with every statue), they were worth admiring. And then there was an area with a stone pagoda, a much-loved statue of a woman with two babies, and a gilded-dragon gate that led to a descending stairway, so steep that stone lanterns would only fit on the wall to the side of every other step. After a slight bend in the stairway, there was a side passage, which I decided to explore later.

And then, despite the haze and drizzle, the view opened to show, on my right, cliffs leading to temple buildings, and on my left, a small inlet and waves dashing against cliffs. :-) A bit later I watched two kayakers try to enter, and then exit, this inlet. One managed to fight the current before entering; the other had to work quite hard to find a way out.

Yonggungsa is not a large temple, but IMO, it has some things that are worth seeing -- stupas and lanterns and a cave shrine and some striking outdoor statues, not to mention the lovely views. The area I intially skipped, also sea-side, held a wonderful open-air statue, glimpses of boats with sappling “prowheads” (like those I had seen in Seogwipo), and some great views of the main temple.

I had considered Yonggungsa a low priority. I’m VERY glad that I made time for it! It must be stunning on a sunny day, but I appreciated the atmospheric effects as the air shifted from haze to mist or drizzle or back, interspersed with a few dazzling moments of clarity.

I found my way back to the Haeundae area by walking from Yonggungsa back to the street, running across a 4-line road JUST in time to catch a bus, realizing that the bus wasn’t even taking the same route as the one I had tried so hard to commit to memory earlier, and then, after a long ride – oh my! I know that building! Of course, even as I was standing up, the bus driver turned to catch my eye. :-)

<b> Busan Aquarium. </b> The Busan Aquarium has some wonderful features: There are lots of interesting tanks embedded in walls at eye-level; and a large area that afforded above and below water-line viewing of penguins; and a very, very large tank that showed reef life. This aquarium’s most notable arena is a huge tank through which there is a large walkway with see-through sides and a see-through top: Shark and rays and skates and sea turtles and some really, really, really BIG fish glide through the water. Awesome!

I was there in time for a “shark feeding” demonstration. There was a small auditorium at the end of this looped walkway, and people gathered there to hear the announcers and watch divers. The event had a decided “performance” quality, with an obvious effort to engage the audience. The most dramatic moments may have been the feeding of the sharks; I thought the most interesting moments were feeding of the skates and rays. And of course, watching the enraptured children was a huge part of the fun.

FWIW, I thought this aquarium impressive. I would like to say that I’m glad that it is an option for South Korean children, but with an admission price of more than 20,000 won (more than $20), I’m not sure that how widely accessible it is. (That admission price was WAY more than anything else I experienced in South Korea. I think some of the private museums may have charged the equivalent of about $9 or $10; many places charged only the equivalent of a few dollars.) And I must admit that I prefer the focus on the animals and their behavior at Chicago’s Shedd Aquarium to the focus on entertainment at the Busan Aquarium; just my preference. I’m still glad I saw it, and it was a perfect way to spend a very rainy afternoon.

<b>More Busan Markets.</b> I returned to the area around the Jigalchi Fish market to see some of Busan’s other markets, but it seems that my timing was poor. The Jigalchi market itself was much as I had seen it the night before. The nearby dried fish and herb markets were either already closed, or preparing to close, for the day, with just a shop or two still open. I suspect that many vendors closed up a bit earlier than they might otherwise have done because of the weather.

All the more reason to savor another Sam Adams, right? Particularly because it was only a couple of blocks back to the “Celtic Pub.” :-)

Revigorated, I was ready to head into Busan’s huge <b>Nampo Market</b>, or was it the Gukje Market, or….? Each of my guidebooks had described the area a bit differently, and I hadn’t been able to make heads nor tails of which area was what. So my first stop was a TI desk that was still open. The woman there said that they were basically all the same and that the whole area was known as “Nampo.” I walked through the various alleyways for a half hour or so, but I must admit that I soon became bored – most of the shops I saw sold clothing and other fashion items and accessories, whether imported or knock-off. Not my thing. The most interesting place I saw was a small temple – really, just an eaved building with three bays to the side of a parking lot. If there was anything truly special about it, I didn’t notice; I thought it noteworthy primarily because there were so few temples in South Korean cities.

<b>Dinner.</b> I ate dinner in the Nampo district, but once again, if I wrote the name down, I haven’t found it. When I ordered, the server looked stricken – what was wrong? She soon returned with an English speaking coworker: The particular beef dish I had ordered was something the restaurant only prepares for two or more people. Could she recommend an alternative? She did, I accepted, and it was REALLY good! The beef was sliced very thin, was very tender, had a very light sesame topping, and was served with a touch of sesame oil on the side. I would happily eat that again! And of course, the banchan were tasty, too. :-) With a large beer, the price came to about $15.

@ nelsonian -- oops! Just realized that you aren't new to Fodor's -- just to its Asian board. Well, welcome nonetheless! :-)

<u>Day 19</u>: <b>Busan to Haeinsa</b>

My plan for the day: Reach Haeinsa no later than 4 p.m., as required by my templestay reservation.

I walked to the elevator access to the Busan subway nearest my hotel, took the subway to the train station, and then a high-speed train to Daegu. There, I easily found a block of lockers that I could use to store my luggage. I had separated out the things I expected to need for my overnight templestay and I had also been careful to make sure I had a lot of 1,000 won coins for the locker. How could I have been better prepared? Well, perhaps, by learning more Korean – but I’m not sure that even that would have helped!

Lockers at the Daegu KTX station now use a fingerprint ID system. Cool! -- IF you can figure out how to use it! You stow whatever, shut the door, and then turn your attention to a central “control pad.” You have to let it record one of your fingerprints – and it seems that I’m REALLY bad at keeping a finger stable long enough for the scan to work. I had to try over and over and over until it accepted my print. And then you have to feed it money. Maybe it was simple for Koreans, but I don’t think so: a young couple was trying to store something just before me, and they seemed to struggle, too. They were kind enough to help me once they figured it out. :-)

I then went to the information desk to confirm all sorts of details – I asked about, and was given, information about bus schedules and made sure I had written Korean words for all the transit points I might need, and only after about 15 minutes of questions and answers did I realize that the woman with whom I was speaking was a KTX employee – I was at the desk for TRAIN info, and yet this woman had responded politely and helpfully to each and every one of my questions, none of which were relevant to her job. How nice!

I didn’t need to wait too long for the bus to the stop nearest Haeinsa. Once there, with just my overnight bag, I started up the hill. It was another hot day, so when I reached a large, shade-less parking lot, I just told myself to stay to the edges and walk slowly. I had nearly passed that heat-radiating concrete when I remembered that one of my guidebooks mentioned that Haeinsa’s treasure hall was well below the temple itself, close to the bus stop. Could it be?

Yes, that WAS the temple’s museum – Yay! :-) AND it had lockers – but why was a staffmember trying to tell me not to use one? He kept pointing to a sign … oh, I think he’s telling me that I can’t leave anything there overnight. I used my few words, and in this case, most importantly my hands, to signal that I wanted to visit the museum itself. He seemed so surprised! Apparently, most people who go to Haeinsa skip the museum. I saw one other couple while I was there; they did the quickest walk-through imaginable! How unfortunate, because there are some really special things at this small museum, including some examples of Haeinsa’s famous wood blocks. I spent about an hour there, and felt truly fortunate to have had the opportunity to see the treasures it displayed.

And then I began the walk up to Haeinsa. There was a long, gently sloping part, much of which was through a lovely wooded area besdie a babbling brook. And then there was a steeper part with many stairs – I trust that the published number, 108 is correct. I couldn’t bear to count them! I hate to admit how heavy that overnight bag began to feel.

<b>Haeinsa Templestay.</b> Soon after entering Haeinsa’s main area, I found the Templestay office and checked in. A young man there explained the rules, including a rule that I had not previously known – meals were to be taken in silence. I quipped something like, “Well, temple food is so good that no one will have time to chat, right?” He shook his head and said something like, “Temple food CAN be good. At Haeinsa, not so much.” Hmm….

He escorted me to my room: The entrance, which was beside by a parking lot, led to a tiny foyer where one could take one’s shoes off before entering a large en suite room through a sliding door. This bedroom had a regular (i.e., wooden and locking) connecting door to a VERY large room that also had a bathroom. I think the really BIG room may have been the “dorm” that JC98 mentioned. “My” room had no bedding, but there were piles in the dorm, so I took mattresses and quilts and pillows to my room. I then confirmed that there was no TP in either room. :-(

There was a small shop within the temple grounds, so I went to see if it sold any TP or tissue. When the shopkeeper realized what I was seeking, she gave me a generous supply and refused to accept any payment. Before I left Haeinsa, I bought a bunch of small wooden rice paddles from her.

I had a few hours to explore the grounds, so off I went! Haeinsa is the third of the “Three Jewel Temples” that I visited, and is particularly known for, and is a UNESCO WHS, because of the Tripitaka Koreana – a complete set of Buddhist scriptures in the form of wooden printing blocks. They are ancient and are housed in a structure that was specially created to protect them by sheltering them from the elements, while also ensuring proper ventillation. One can’t enter that building, but one can walk close to one side and see a bit of the interior. And there is good signage showing (for example) the differences between the front and the back that resulted from different patterns of light and wind, etc. Fascinating!

This large temple also has some ancient stupas and stone lanterns and scenic corners and historic flagpoles, and a part of one courtyard was shaded by a “ceiling” of Dharma lanterns. One of the stone pagodas had bells hanging from its corners that chimed pleasantly when a breeze swept through. Charming!

One of the few rules that I was to follow as an overnight guest of the temple was to show up for dinner promptly. I waited with the temple’s other guests – there were 8 of us all together – until the door was opened. A few monks were just finishing their meals to one side of the room; a few others were “on duty.” The food was served buffet style and included a wonton-like soup, rice, and several types of vegetables. Thinking that I might not like everything, I took just a bit more than I thought I might want of each dish. Indeed, this meal was the least pleasing of all the meals I had while in Korea – although the soup was tasty, and some of the vegetables were fine, others were bland and overcooked. Only after I was seated did it occur to me that it might seem ungrateful or wasteful of me if I left anything on my plate. So I added some red sauce and finished every last bite. Quite different than my exquisite meal at Shojoshinin in Japan’s Koyasan!

A second requirement for those who stay just one night is to attend the evening prayer service, and really, this wasn’t an obligation – it was a privilege. I went straight from dinner to the main hall, where I knelt on a padded cushion to the back. Soon, there was the sound of a gong, and then the drums, and then the bell, and the monks and the other temple guests took their places. One of the monks seemed to be in charge of “protocol,” letting those of us who were guests know where to position ourselves. Finally, with another sound of the gong, the service began.

The first chant was one for which I had been given not only the English translation, but also an English transliteration, so I could join in. A pair of monks “led” this chant, and accompanied it with the percussion of gourds. I found this chant, and those that followed, extraordinarily moving: There were quite a few monks in attendance, maybe around 50, and to hear them merge their voices – whether high or deep, strong or weak – with such reverance and joyfulness was very special. The monks, and some of the guests, had musical scores, which some seemed to use, while others seemed to know the chants by heart. As twilight approached, the light that initially streamed in through the temple doors dimmed and began to give way to interior lighting. Wonderful!

After about half an hour, all the monks but two filed out. Those two remained, chanting with or without the guord, for another half hour. Most of my fellow guests continued their obeisances; I regret that my joints weren’t up to the task, though I tried to be as discrete and respectful as I could.

After the prayer service, I enjoyed a few exceptionally quite moments strolling around the temple as night descended. But another temple rule was that one had to be in one’s room by 9:00 p.m.; I made sure to comply. I wasn’t sure whether that meant “lights out” or not, and so I also made sure that I had a flashlight handy just in case. The electricity was not cut, but I didn’t stay up too much later. Instead, I fell asleep on the delightfully cozy warmth of the ondol floor.

Enjoying your trip report very much. Korea is on my bucket list and hope to visit one day. I too am a Korean drama fan and have picked up a bit of the Korean language from watching the dramas (that's my excuse for watching:) Your report is very detailed and interesting to read. Did you feel at all uncomfortable dining solo, was told compared to Japan that it is less accepting in Korea?

This is wonderful kja. What a great account of a temple stay. I can feel the atmosphere, hear the sounds and smell the smells from your writing. And what lovely memories of drifting off to sleep on an ondol floor. I must always have been lucky with temple food as it is one of my absolute favourites, though I have never stayed in a temple in Korea; next time :)

@ hnl – thanks for you compliments! I did not feel uncomfortable dining solo in Korea, but then, I do so with some frequency and don’t pay much attention to how others are reacting. There were some dishes that were served for only 2 or more (e.g., those that involved an entire chicken) and I didn’t find any restaurants that served either “banquet” or “royal” cuisine for just one, but otherwise I felt welcome at each of the restaurants where I ate. It was clear that dining alone was not common, but it didn’t seem common in Japan, either. My sense was that when in a restaurant, people noticed me more because I was Western than because I was solo, and they were happy to help me figure out what to order and how to eat it.


@ gertie – I relished my temple stay and am glad that my words communicated what a special experience it was. Even so, I was honestly surprised by the food at Haeinsa: Everything I read in advance led me to believe that temple food in Korea would be delicious, and I had savored an exquisite meal of temple food at Baru in Seoul early in my stay. I think the man who checked me in was probably quite on point when he told me, “Temple food CAN be good. At Haeinsa, not so much.” ;-)


<u>Day 20</u>: <b>Haeinsa, Daegu, and Jikjisa, ending in Gyeongju</b>

The last requirement of my stay at <b>Haeinsa</b> was to attend breakfast (in silence) just after 6 a.m. As with dinner the night before, some things were very tasty; others, not so much. For this meal, I was careful not to take any extras.

Before leaving, I took the opportunity to visit some of Haeinsa’s hermitages. The first one I visited had a very pleasant balcony lining one side that gave access to a shrine and study and a delightfully shaded “sunroom.” As I was leaving that area, a monk signaled to me that I should take a side path, and I’m so glad he did! It led to an area with what I believe was a small shrine to healing and one of those large, interestingly shaped rocks that are sometimes placed in Oriental gardens.

Another hermitage had an ancient stone pagoda and a platform with excellent views out over a series of wooded hillsides and a small garden with flowers in bloom, which several women were quite insistent that I should see.

After a last walk through Haeinsa’s main areas, I checked out and walked slowly back to the main road. As I was approaching it, a woman stepped out of a shop, saying “ticket, ticket!” One can buy one’s bus ticket from her – I don’t know if one can do so on the bus itself. While I was waiting for the bus, one of Haeinsa’s English-speaking monks joined me. I enjoyed our conversation and was glad to be able to tell him how much I appreciated the opportunity to spend a night at the temple.

<b>Daegu.</b> Once in Daegu, a very nice gentleman helped me find my way to a subway station with lockers (also fingerprint controlled) in which I could put my overnight bag. Mr. Young explained that his father had been a practioner of traditional medicine, and that he himself serves as a volunteer docent at the nearby museum of traditional medicine. He asked me to allow him to take me on a tour so graciously that I couldn’t help but accept.

<b>Yakjeon Herbal Medicine Market.</b> As I already knew from thursdaysd (thanks for the warning!), this market has been so sanitized as to be nearly unrecognizable. Mr. Young and I walked along a wide street that was lined with shops, only some of which had small exterior displays, mostly of cut branches; inside, things were in plastic bags and cabinets. So unlike the traditional herb market in Seoul!

<b>Daegu Yangnyeongsi Museum of Oriental Medicine.</b> This small museum has some very well-signed and informative displays of traditional medicine concepts and the various implements and items (stems, roots, leaves, flowers, seeds, etc.) that are used. Mr. Young patiently answered my questions and provided a wealth of additional information. The displays in this museum were designed for people of all ages, including children, by incorporating interactive elements, games of discovery, etc. Cool!

<b>Rice cake market.</b> Having seen thursdaysd’s picture of a rice cake topped by the image of an octopus, I knew I had to visit this market! Sure enough, Daegu has a narrow covered alley that is devoted to rice cake shops, and many of them displayed large, colorful cakes topped by an octopus or group of shrimp or swimming fish…. Fascinating! Mr. Young said that these cakes would be for a couple’s wedding, and that the goal is to select a rice cake that shows something relevant to the groom’s occupation that also has an appropriate symbolic meaning.

Mr. Young escorted me back to the subway station and made sure I was able to retrieve my overnight bag and find my way onward. He spent close to 3 hours with me, for no reason other than kindness and a desire to share information about topics he finds dear. How lucky I was to run into him!

<b>Jikjisa.</b> By taking a subway and then a train to Gimcheon, and then a bus, I found my way to Jikjisa – or more precisely, I found my way to the bus stop closest to Jikjisa. The bus driver made sure I knew where to get off, but if there was a sign, I couldn’t see it! Fortunately, a woman who also got off the bus there had heard me name the temple, and when she saw me looking around, she pointed me in the right direction. And when I came to a corner, I looked back, and there she was, signaling which way I should turn. :-) I ended up walking along a short street with shops, and then into a sculpture park, and then into the wooded area surrounding the temple.

Jikjisa is entered by a series of three lovely gates spaced along a winding path. Some huge pines shade the area and there was the sound of running water almost everywhere. This temple holds some stunning shrines, impressive stupas and lanterns, more blooming flowers than most of the temples I visited, and a treasury with a small collection of incredible pieces.

I had considered skipping Jikjisa because I knew that stopping here would mean a very late arrival at my next destination. I am very glad I made time for it!

<b>Trip to Gyeongju.</b> I walked back through the woods, through the sculpture garden, through the street of shops, and found the bus stop. When the bus arrived, it was the same bus driver who had left me off, and he not only recognized me, he greeted me with incredible warmth and with an interest in my reaction to Jikjisa. Of course, he made sure I made it to the train station without difficulty and he waved to me as he pulled away. While waiting for the train, a pair of women who were also waiting trying to give me one of their two apples; it was only with difficulty that I convinced them that I was fine.

Once on the train to Daegu, I saw one of the only sunsets I saw during the entire month that I was in Korea: I looked out the window and saw a section of the western sky that was yellow at the top and transitioned to red-orange at the bottom, with a dragon-backed ridge in silhouette against the red at the base. Beautiful!!! And then it shrank to just a bit of a reddish-pink blur, and quickly disappeared. It was lovely while it lasted, but was surprisingly ephemeral.

From Daegu, I boarded a bus to Gyeongju. It had been a long day, but a very rewarding one. :-) Fortunately, my hotel was within 200 meters of the bus station.

<b>Sugar Motel, Gyeongju.</b> Here’s my TA review:

“I spent 3 nights in an economy double for single use at the Sugar Motel and found the service at this hotel near Gyeongju’s bus stations wonderful.



“As examples of the service: A few days before my reserved arrival, I received an e-mail with a detailed and extremely easy-to-follow map of how to reach the hotel from the Gyeoongju bus stations, marked in English and Korean (having both languages on a map is important, because it allows me to use it and also allows me to ask Koreans for help if necessary). The staff had also prepared a notice, in English, that they handed to me that suggested contacting them by e-mail if oral communication seemed inadequate. The staff spoke enough English to meet my needs quite well, but I appreciated this extra evidence of their efforts to accommodate English-speakers. 



“The hotel is close to both of Gyeongju’s bus stations and to a few of Gyeongju's sites, but it was a mile or two (I’m guessing) – from some of Gyeongju’s best-known sites – its National Museum, the Observatory, Anapji Pond. It was also about a mile (perhaps a bit less) from Gyeongju’s train station. I believe there are buses if you don’t want to walk to those sites, and taxis were readily available in the area. 



“I believe this hotel is one of Korea’s ‘lovel motels,’ which (as I understand it) are often used by married couples who live with parents until they can afford a space of their own. If so, it was certainly discreet. It was also appointed in ways that I (a solo femal traveler) appreciated – a jacuzzi bath, large and comfortable bed, breakfast delivered to the room, etc. And breakfast was delicious! Guests have two options, a “continental” breakfast (I forget the details) and the option I chose – a perfectly grilled sandwich made with ham, eggs, cheese, pickles… along with a container of yogurt, a piece of fruit, orange juice, and coffee – all delivered to the room at the time one requests. Perfect!



“One minor head’s up: Given what I read before my trip about rotating and lighted ‘barbers’ poles’ in South Korea – especially those with images of women -- I suspect that some of the establishments in the area by this hotel were brothels. I never saw anything in the area (even late at night) that made me the slightest bit uncomfortable. Just something to keep in mind.”

Ah, a jacuzzi bath! What a perfect end to a long, wonderful day. :-)

What luck to have the time with Mr Young especially as he seems to have been good company.

kja, thanks for your long reply above....you mean you took a trip without fodors (to Japan) who knew that was possible...;-)

I envy that you can write such detailed and interesting even compelling I would say trip reports! Do you take notes for future reference? I can barely remember what I did yesterday....lol.

I have read about the problem with non-metered taxis in China - I guess I don't even want to be bothered to go somewhere that doesn't have that much interest for me with additional hassles like that....I would like to visit China if only to see the Great Wall but I have breathing issues and don't think it is the place for me.

I am continuing to love your report - thanks so much for your effort which must be huge!

hnl - fellow kdrama fan - there are sites that give info about locations mentioned in various dramas in case you didn't realize it. :)

@ MaryW – I was, indeed very lucky -- he was great company!

(BTW, another ssambap story coming up....)


@ Mara – “compelling” – what a wonderful compliment! Thanks so much!

Sometimes I wish I didn’t remember what I did yesterday (;-) ), but no – I am not relying on memory. I always keep a journal when I travel; I just don’t usually type my notes up.

BTW, the problem with taxis in China is largely because of Westerners who fail to insist on using the meter (and so substantially overpay), with the consequence that many taxi drivers, especially in major cities like Beijing, now cater primarily to Westerners who don’t insist on the meters. It’s really quite a problem, and an unfortunate one as well.

The pollution in Beijing is a very serious problem, too. I’m very fortunate to have visited while it was simply an unpleasant nuisance. It should give people – and certainly anyone with breathing issues – pause. Actually, that’s part of why I went to South Korea this year – Seoul is apparently beginning to suffer from not only it’s own pollution, but especially from smog blowing over from China. I wanted to see it before it gets any worse.


<u>Day 21</u>: <b>Gyeongju, Seokguram, and Bulguksa </b>

<b>Seokguram Grotto.</b> Per my guidebooks, to go to Seokguram, I was to take a bus to Bulguksa, and then change to a different bus. My bus driver made sure I saw the stop for Bulguksa, and as I looked around for the stop for Seokguram, I saw a Tourist Information office. I went straight there, where I was told that the bus stop was just across the street, and (they looked at the clock) the bus should arrive any minute! Thanking them as quickly as I could, I flew out of that office, remembered to stop to check for traffic before crossing the street, ;-) and used that opportunity to wave to the bus driver, who had just begun to pull out, but who did, indeed, stop for me.

That was one awesome bus-ride. Up and up and up, around one hairpin turn after another (but all, thank goodness, with wide pavement areas and mirrored corners and guardrails), with some breathtaking dropoffs to the side -- and I do mean, literally, breath-taking! Wow!

The bus stopped in a large parking lot where the mist-shrouded views to either side were spectacular and the smell of roasting chestnuts provided a welcome greeting.

There was a bell nearby devoted to Korea’s reunification. For about $1, one could strike it. I paid, asked for guidance, made two huge practice swings and then let that trunk-sized ringer fly! I wasn’t perfectly on target, but oh!, that bell responded with a deeply resonant sound that echoed off the surrounding hillsides quite wonderfully. The attendant made sure I placed my hand on the bell as it settled, and I loved the feel of its vibrations long after the sounds had dissipated. And the attendant also made sure I saw the hollow pipe at the top – it was a KOREAN bell. :-)

There was a long, wide walkway through a forested hillside to reach Seokguram – or rather, to reach a large plaza with a ceiling of Dharma lanterns. From there, one began climbing a staired path….

I knew, long before making this trip, that the Seokguram Buddha is now covered by a protective structure, so my expectations might have been very different than those of others. Given that preparation, I found Seokguram deeply moving and absolutely awe-inspiring! When I got there, the sun was glinting off the statue’s simple golden urna, and the light bathed the statue in a way that accentuated the dappled nuances of it’s reddish-tawny stone. At least in that particular light, I thought it one of the most gently loving Buddhas I have yet had the privilege to see.

I lingered for a while, glad that only a few other people were stepping into the viewing area and then out – and then I finally noticed the glorious carved reliefs behind and to the side of this Buddha. OMG! How many people pass through that place every day and never see them? The structure doesn’t fully obscure them, but the structure certainly does not accentuate them! I spent a LONG time in that little compartment. I'm so glad I was there at a time when I had to see it with hoards of others!

Once I descended to the lantern-covered plaza, I stopped at a shop to buy a bottle of water. Not so fast! A man from Andong, who currently works as a guide at Seokguram, and a woman from Gyeongju who works at the shop, tried to give me a cup of a sweet local beverage. They then spent quite some time making sure that I had the information I needed to explore both Gyeongju and Andong. They commented on what I should see and what I should eat and where I should look for those foods and they told me about the traditions surrounding the Dharma lanterns and so much more….

Eventually, I walked back along the forested lane to the entryway and then turned down a lovely path.

<b> Bulguksa.</b> I saw a LOT of wonderful temples while in South Korea; this one has a special place in my memories for its unique and ancient features: The mortarless stone base and the double stairways of its broad main terrace and its stone pagodas (and perhaps some other features) that have survived from the Silla era (late 700s). I thought the designs and craftsmanship and engineering awesome! Of the two massive stone pagodas, the “male” one, which was not unlike many of the other stone pagodas I saw on this trip, was undergoing repair; one could see its disassembled pieces in a temporary structure within the main courtyard. The “female” pagoda was unlike anything that I have ever seen before, and I thought it stunning. It was hard to tear myself away!

This large temple also had many other enjoyable features – a lovely, willow-shrouded koi pond and a pleasant area where mounds of tiny prayer rocks covered nearly every available surface around a massive old tree with lots of exposed roots and some truly impressive Buddhas and lots of long corridors edging the areas outside temple halls….

And OMG, are those the same six French-speaking tourists who I saw at Tongdosa and who so consistently shied away from ANY contact with anyone else? I guess I’d rather think it was the same people than to think it was yet another such group. ;-)

<b> Gyeongju National Museum.</b> Of the Korean National Museums I visited, Gyeongju’s was second only to the one in Seoul in terms of the scope of its collection. With several exhibition halls covering the region’s prehistory onward, it had an extensive and very informative (and beautiful!) display of Silla-era gold and other artifacts. When I was there, it also had a special exhibition featuring a Silla-era mudflap for a horse. Now, some of you (perhaps ALL of you!) may be thinking, seriously? A horse’s mudflap? Yes! Not many painted birch-bark artifacts survive anything close to 1500 years, and the painting on this extraordinarily well-crafted piece was exquisite! The exhibition included other items found in the same tomb, and information about how the conservators handled it, etc. Awesome!

As closing time approached, I had just enough time to fast-walk by some of the exterior displays. One is a huge and famous (or infamous) bell, the “Emille Bell,” known for its resonant and mournful tone. There is a system of speakers around it that play its sound at regular intervals, and I departed this wonderful museum to the diminishing sounds of its evocative toll.

<b>Around Gyeongju.</b> I walked by a large lotus pond (part of Anapji, I wondered?); took a peek at the ice house of Banwolseong (not that interesting, IMO, but it was more or less on my way and in pleasant park-like area); passed some areas showing bits of excavated foundations; strolled through what seems to be a relatively new, and expanding, flower garden; and spotted my first Silla-era tumulus. Gyeongju’s ancient observatory, <b>Cheomseongdae,</b> managed to exceed my expectations without matching my hopes. Worth seeing, though!

<b>Dinner at Guro Ssambap.</b> Ssambap is one of Gyeongu’s specialties, and Guro Ssambap was highly recommended, but I had been forewarned that it might not serve solo diners. I found it, but the proprietor did not speak English. Fortunately, someone who was just leaving did speak enough English to help out. No, I was told, dinner is only served for two people or more. But I will pay for two, I said! (After all, my meals had been surprisingly affordable; I was prepared to “splurge” if necessary.) A LONG conversation between the proprietor and the helpful customer ensued, followed by what sounded like an adamant “last word” pronouncement by the proprietor. My “translator” told me, “She says that she will NOT argue with you about it -- you WILL pay for ONLY one.” :-)

Like the dol ssambap that I had enjoyed in Buyeo, this meal involved lots of greens and sauces and seasonings and a staggering array of banchan. (I think the difference between Buyeo’s dol ssambap and Gyeongju’s ssambap is that the rice for dol ssambap is cooked in a stone pot, i.e., a stoneware ceramic pot that can be placed directly on a stove or burner. I also just realized that it is dOl ssambap, not dAl ssambap, and I had previously written. Oops!)

I certainly can’t say I ate this meal with perfect manners – I never found a way to wrap or bite without risking at least a bit of food falling to my plate (see MaryW’s comment above!), but I didn’t think I was doing TOO bad, until I noticed the obvious agitation of one of my servers. What was that about? And then the server returned, with another customer in tow, someone who spoke a bit of English. I had been given TWO plates of greens, each of which contained some lettuces and some herbs. Apparently, ONE plate was to be eaten with the red pepper sauce and the OTHER plate was to be eaten with the soy/sesame sauce. =-o Who knew! I’m sure there is a reason, and I’m sure that those with a palate accustomed to Korean flavors might have recognized it … or maybe it has to do with Korean concepts of balancing foods for health? I really have no idea! What I do know is that I sincerely appreciated the effort that server took to make sure I understood. I thanked her and her conscriptee profusely and did my best to keep the distinction clearly in mind as I finished my meal. The server nodded approvingly. :-) It was another truly delicious meal, and I am very grateful that the proprietor allowed me the opportunity to experience it. BTW, counting my large beer, I paid about $13 for that feast.

The evening was very pleasant, so I enjoyed the long-ish walk back to my hotel. En route, I passed several tumuli, all back-lit, many with surrounding paths where a few people were still jogging or walking, singly or in pairs. All-in-all, they aren’t the most interesting things to look at – they are covered with grass, but no flowers or shrubs or trees (although the flat areas around them might have a few trees) and there aren’t any guardian statues or other artifacts marking them. Really, they are just grass-covered mounds, some very small, and some much larger. Even so, each time I rounded a corner that evening and saw another, I couldn’t help but smile – so many, so widely dispersed through the city!

I also smiled as I once again ended my day in my jacuzzi. :-)

Thanks Mara, that's good to know!

kja, after reading your latest post I looked up the location...so Gyeongju was called Seorabeol back in the days when that area was Silla. Having seen a number of Korean historical dramas covering that period of history, I imagine going to that museum must have been amazing. The Met here in NYC had an exhibition last fall called Silla: Korea's Golden Kingdom with some wonderful pieces.

May I ask if I didn't before - did you take pictures? Are you uploading them anywhere?

@ Mara – Yes, what is now Gyeongju was the capital of the Silla kingdom (and Buyeo and Gongju were capitals of the Baekje kingdom, which was also justifiably known for its craftsman). Did you go to that exhibit at the Met? I didn’t, but since returning home, I bought the book on it and was very pleased to find excellent coverage of so many of the treasures that I got to see while in South Korea. Most of the Silla-era objects are divided between the National Museums in Seoul and Gyeongju, so if you do go to Seoul, you can see/revisit some. And yes, it was indeed quite a privilege to visit these museums! :-)

LOL – I took thousands and thousands of pictures! Some day, I will find time to go through them.


<u>Day 22</u>: <b>Gyeongju, with a day trip to Yangdong </b>

After another tasty breakfast, I set out for the 2-km walk to the Tomb of General Kim Yu Shin. It was not uninteresting – I crossed a bridge over the nearby river and the fields, thick with some kind of purple flower, that occupy its floodplain; then I walked along a tree-lined avenue with views out over the river and the city. But even early in the day, it was HOT. And try as I might, I seemed unable to distance myself from a young man who was listening to music as such a high volume that I found it almost painful. Then I turned into a forested park and climbed up a short way to the....

<b>Tomb of General Kim Yu Shin.</b> I will admit that upon reaching it, it seemed that I had walked a long way, in uncomfortable heat, just to see yet another tomb mound. But I had come because it was surrounded by a full set of reliefs of Chinese zodiac figures, and when I looked closely at the reliefs, I had to acknowledge that they were worth seeing. And there was an impressive turtle-borne stela there, too – I believe it’s called a bixi? (I’d seen others while in Korea, but this was a particularly impressive one.). If only I didn’t have to walk all the way back in that heat! Had I seen a taxi, I would have taken it.

<b>In search of Gyeongju’s traditional market.</b> There was a TI office by the bus stations, where I learned that a traditional market was quite close – just blocks away from my nearby hotel and not far from my next destination: All I had to do was walk the two perpendicular lines of a triangle, instead of walking the hypotenuse. I could do that! Wrong. :-( I don’t know how I erred; I just know I didn't find it and finally gave up.

<b>Daereungwon Tomb Complex. </b> Although there are tumuli scattered through much of Gyeongju, this tomb complex is the area that is considered the best place to see them, in part because they are particularly dense here, but also because it includes the one tumulus that can be entered -- Cheonmachong. There was also a double-humped tumulus near the entrance I used, and in front of it a pond, and in front of that a huge group of really, really cute little children, maybe 3 or 4 years old, looking at it and getting their pictures taken one by one in front of it. A few were so shy that it took tremendous coaxing for their leaders to finally get a decent shot; others needed no further training whatsoever in how to vamp for a camera.

I’m not sure what I expected of <b>Cheonmachong</b>, except that what I saw wasn’t it. Again, it was not uninteresting – I found it helpful to actually see the relatively small size of the interior space. But it wasn’t much more than that – a whitewashed space that held a few display cases with replicas of original items I had seen at the museum the day before. And lots of children who, like children everywhere, like to hear the echos of their voices bouncing off small, enclosed spaces. Bless their hearts.

As I walked around the Daereungwon Tomb Complex, gaining a sense of the different sizes of the tumuli, I wondered what had happened to all the gold and jade and other priceless objects that had been looted from these tombs over the years. And later, every time I encountered a small hill anywhere in the area, I wondered if it, too, was a tomb….

<b>Anapji, aka Anap Pond.</b> As I approached the large stretch of lotus ponds that I had seen the day before, I saw a map: Oh, this is part of Anapji! So despite the heat, I took one of the paths through the ponds, admiring a few places where lotus were beginning to bloom. There were so many insects that the surface seemed to shimmer and resonate with a low-pitched hum. It was, unfortunately, shade-less; but then so was the street, and this was so much more interesting!

And there’s Anapji with its towering shade trees -- I’m getting SO close! :-) Oh no, there’s a fence. A big, solid, fence. :-( But not all that tall a fence…. ;-) I simply could not bear the thought of walking around to the entry way in the shadless heat, so I climbed over, feeling incredibly guilty with each step.

I found Anapji a delightful place from which to escape the heat of day: The very large pond has ducks and koi, including some the jump out of the water every once in a while =-o and, in some areas, reeds and lotus. There are beautifully landscaped areas with trees and hills and benches offering lovely views, and there are more formal areas where rectilinear walkways connect the reconstructed pavillions. Only one of the pavillions could be entered; it held a well-signed display of artifacts from the site. Before I left, I stopped to buy a ticket to atone for "breaking-in."

<b>Yangdong.</b> Yangdong Folk Village has UNESCO WHS status for preserving its Joseon-era traditions. Unlike the other Korean folk villages I had seen so far, it is not a place to which buildings have been relocated or reconstructed – it is a place where people still live and work and go about their lives, and they have chosen to do so while preserving a vanishing cultural heritage.

One can go to Yangdong by relatively infrequent direct bus, or by any of several much more frequent buses that leave one off about 2 km from the village. I took the first bus that met my needs—one of the latter. My bus-driver made sure I knew where to get off and which direction to walk. It was still very hot – but it had been hot standing by the bus-stop, too; at least this way, I got to see the local scenery rather than cope with the exhaust from the vehicles along a busy city street.

Once I reached the entrance to the village, I bought a ticket and got a map that showed the most notable houses. The ticket-seller crossed a couple off and made it clear that those were not open on this particular day.

Scattered around a small valley where lotus seemed to almost cover and choke a small central stream, Yangdong has an array of “grand” houses, roofed in curved tiles, with eaves and upturned corners, and courtyards and gardens and maybe even a shrine. Yangdong also has some thatched-roof homes, which are much smaller and that form one side of a small fenced yard that also holds a thatched storehouse or two and maybe a small vegetable patch. The roads and paths wind uphill and down and around some side valleys, by walls that edge the larger homes and reed fences that edge the more modest homesteads and trees that mark unsettled property. Most of the “open” buildings (those tourists could visit) were among the higher-class ones, and each of them had at least some doors or windows open so that one could view the interior to see details of the construction or furnishings or whatever.

There were a lot of tourists, and tour groups, there that day. At least one person from every tour group I passed stopped to tell me, in English, something he or she had just learned from his/her tour guide. Even some of the guides stepped aside to chat with me! And one of the adults accompanying a large group of children insisted on giving me a slice of watermelon – what on delightful treat on such a hot day!

At one place, men were paving a new driveway. The paving material had already been poured; they were walking, arm-in-arm in a driveway-width row, to tamp it down and smooth it out. Who needs a steam-roller?

At another building, a group of eight women were trying to use a tripod and time-lapse camera to get a picture of their time together. I happily volunteered to take a picture or two. I took a few shots and asked them to make sure that they were OK. As it turns out, my skill with a camera did not meet their expectations. OK – a few more shots. Still not good enough! I had seriously underestimated the challenge of getting a group of South Korean women to ALL agree that a picture was acceptable. I admit that my patience was beginning to wear a bit thin when they finally agreed that one was satisfactory. ;-)

There were also some interesting buildings a bit up the hill on the other side of the valley. For better or worse, the one I remember most had a sign saying that no one was to enter and noting (in English), that they particularly hate Japanese people. Wow. It was a striking reminder to me that many living South Koreans suffered tremendously at the hands of, and lost a great deal of their country’s most beloved patrimony to, the Japanese.

Before leaving, I stopped at a little “café” (for lack of a better word) – a place where a woman sold beverages and a few simple snacks from what I assume was her home. She had a small counter and the supplies she needed on a table just inside the gate, and there were some seats and a table in the very small courtyard in which her children were playing. As I ordered “rice water” (a very refreshing, slighly sweet beverage), I heard a number of women call out: It was the group of ladies whose pictures I had taken! They had apparently just been served, and they were adamant that they would treat me to whatever I wanted! I protested, they insisted; I decided to accept as graciously as I could. It was unnecessary, but it was still a very nice and much appreciated gesture. :-)

I did not explore every nook or cranny of Yangdong, but I saw a lot and found it fascinating and am very glad I included it in my plans. And after a long, hot day, I was glad to reach the main gain in time for the next direct bus back to Gyeongju.

<b>Market.</b> The bus I was on had a scheduled stop near my hotel, but when I heard an announcement for the market, and looked outside and saw it, I jumped up and ran for the door. The driver checked with me; I assured him I wanted to get off there after all.

I can’t say that this market was substantively different from any of the other markets I saw while in South Korea, but I enjoyed it nonetheless and thought it made a nice break from the rest of my day’s activities. I took a ridiculous number of photographs, enjoyed exchanging a few words with the vendors (even if only to request permission to snap a shot), and again marvelled at the range of unidentifiable entities for sale.

By the time I was ready to leave, I was completely disoriented, so I made sure I asked several people the direction toward the intercity bus station (which is where my hotel was). I admit that I was tired by then – it had been a long, hot day. Thank goodness I was only blocks from a shower!

As blocks turned into kilometers, I slowly realized that I had not found the traditional market that had eluded me that morning, the market that was only minutes from my hotel -- I had found a different market. I kept seeing signs that gave me confidence that I was heading in the right direction, but I didn’t know how far I had to go until I was, in fact, only blocks away – nearly an hour later. I admit it: I was exhausted by the time I got there! I bought a beer before returning to my room, and am pleased to commend the restorative powers of a long, hot shower and a large, cool beer.

<b>Dinner at Sukyoung Sikdang.</b> Sukyoung Sikdang is just beside the Daereungwon Tomb Complex -- not far from my hotel. And OMG, its bibambap was the best I tasted on this trip! :-) It was, of course, accompanied by a slew of banchan, and the owner insisted on deboning a fish that one of those side dishes included, while also making sure I knew what the rest of my meal entailed. He was welcoming and spoke English so well that he was even able to engage in some puns. Wonderful!

After a last walk through one of the small side parks with backlit tumuli, I returned to my hotel for a leisurely jacuzzi bath and some much needed sleep.

I love those lotus ponds in Gyeongju. They get hot though I agree. I always travel with a folding umbrella and use it more for shade than rain. I try to find one that has a silver exterior which makes an enormous difference but they can be hard to find sometimes. I usually pick one up when I'm in Thailand as they seem quite common there. They aren't as strong as I'd like and I've had one ruined each visit to South Korea either in typoon weather or just wind in those very lotus fields - they have at least been cheap umbrellas.

The Museum there is great too and has some really nice duck shaped vessels. I was lucky to be with a group of potters accompanied by a local potter who is a "Human Cultural Treasure" in Silla style ware. He makes all the modern copies of the duck vessels and mounted horsemen that you see in the National Museum Shops. I love the SK way of preserving their culture. This man is charged with keeping alive and passing on the Silla style ceramic traditions.

Your meal descriptions are making me drool!

kja, yes, I did go to that Korean exhibit at the Met - it was quite small but the objects displayed were wonderful!

Wow, Kim Yushin - as little as I know about Korean history from watching dramas, he is very important - must have been interesting to visit the tomb...

@ MaryW – Sounds like I should have invested in a silver umbrella! And I love that you knew EXACTLY where I was. :-)

I only learned a tiny bit about South Korea’s “Human Cultural Treasures,” and was curious about them. Their title is for life, isn’t it? How are they selected? And how does the fact that there is one affect the work of other artists and craftsmen who can’t attain that status so long as a designee is alive?


@ Mara – Oh, I’m so glad that you got to see that exhibit! Silla work is not (I think) widely known, but is breathtaking in its artistry and craftsmanship.

I read numerous references to Kim Yu Shin as I planned my trip, so I wasn’t too surprised at the number of people who visited his tomb when I was there – and there were quite a lot. He is obviously one of the people who stand out in Korean history.


<u>Day 23</u>: <b>Move from Gyeongju to Andong and Hahoe </b>

After another delicious breakfast, I checked out and took a taxi to the train station. I bought my ticket and then began looking for elevator access to cross to the next boarding platform. A woman told me there wasn’t one, but that if I waited, she would send someone to help. I said there was no need and began going down the stairs. I hadn’t known that Korean men can fly, but it seemed like this one did, he came that fast! :-) A station employee, he took my suitcase from me, carried it the rest of the way down that stairway and then up the one to the platform that I needed. And then he said he would come back to help me board when my train arrived. I thanked him, and assured him that doing so would not be necessary. Nonetheless, as the train approached, there he was again, and he did, indeed, help me board. So utterly unnecessary, and so kind!

It took about 2 hours to reach Andong, where there is a TI right outside the station. They have a one-page handout with a map on one side, and on the other, information about bus schedules to and from various frequently visited sites, the amount of time it would take, etc. VERY helpful!

<b>Goryeo Hotel.</b> Here’s my TA review:

“I spent 2 nights in a double for single use at the Goryeo Hotel and found the hotel serviceable and well-located for exploring Andong and Hahoe.

“I believe this hotel is one of Korea’s 'love motels' which (as I understand it) are often used by married couples who live with parents until they can afford a space of their own. If so, it was geared toward serviceable functionality: A large and comfortable bed; plenty of hot water from the wet-room shower; generous supplies of lotions and creams and shampoo, etc. – but no “extras.” It met my (solo female traveler) needs.

“The hotel is well-located: It is only about a block and a half from Andong’s train station (where there is a Tourist Information office) and about the same distance from the bus stops for Hahoe, the Andong Folk Village, and other key sites.”

<b>Hahoe.</b> After a bus ride of about 40 minutes, I heard the announcement for “Hahoe Station.” Watching a number of people jump up and head to the doors, I joined them. I was just getting off when I saw the puzzled look on the driver’s face, but it was too late – he moved on. The good news was that I was only about 0.2 kilometer from the stop I wanted, and it was along a pleasant and reasonably shady road.

Like Yangdong, and included in the same UNESCO WHS inscription, Hahoe is a real, living village that has elected to retain its Joseon-era traditions. And like Yangdong, there is an entry area where one purchases a ticket. Unlike Yangdong, Hahoe has a HUGE area of shops and restaurants and tourist facilities.

<b>Hahoe Mask Museum.</b> The Hahoe Mask Museum has an incredible, and very well displayed, collection of masks used in various traditional ceremonies from all over Korea, and for that matter, from around the world. There were ones designed to frighten and to delight; to instruct and to entertain; to hide behind or to charicature and accentuate…. The day I was there, the museum also featured a special exhibit of puppets and dolls. I love these kinds of things and find them fascinating! :-)

<b>Hahoe Mask Dance.</b> The Hahoe Mask Dance, a ritualized village exorcism that has been performed for centuries, can be seen in a covered, open-air arena near the main bus stop. Staff handed seat cushions and booklets about the dance to entering audience members. As people settled into their seats, I realized that I was seeing more Westerners in that one arena than I remember having seen for quite a while.

As you might have anticipated from what I’ve said of my interests, I was very glad to see this performance. Nonetheless, I found much of the humor not just low-brow, but surprisingly scatological, and if there was a compensatorily witty, or otherwise more elevated, level of humor, I missed it. And the musical accompaniment included a wind instrument that was very loud, off-pitch, and seemingly incessant. So there were parts of this performance that I found less than fully satisfying. On the other hand, I commend the talents of the performers (and they were very skilled IMO) -- I would have hated to miss it!

<b>Hahoe Village.</b> After walking back through the commercial district to the main gate, I took a little trolley that traverses the 1-km or so to Hahoe Village, stopped at the office there for an audio-guide, and headed off.

My first stop was the river below the village, where one can catch a ferry and then climb a hill to a look-out point. The ferry was just a small boat that a lone man operates. He waits at each side until there are enough people to justify crossing.

While I was waiting, a man who seemed intent upon his photography stopped in front of me just long enough to place a plastic-wrapped Andong apple in my hands. (Andong is known for its apples.) He then proceeded to give me no attention whatsoever. How nice!

I’m not sure if I mentioned that I had with me some tokens of my home city; just little things like key chains and magnates that I had wrapped as I had done before going to Japan. I’d given a few away already when I thought I could do so without initiating a gift-giving sequence; this was one occasion that seemed to me to call for it! So as we were leaving the ferry, and as this gentleman offered his hand to steady me, I placed one in it.

The walk to the cliff overlooking Hahoe was very pleasant, and the views out over the village and the deep bend of the river in which the village sits were lovely. Well worth every moment of the climb!

Back along the beach, I perched on a cluster of rocks to await the ferry. A couple with a little boy who was, perhaps, 4 or 5 years old, came by and started exploring that part of the beach. To my dismay, the boy literally stepped on my backpack, and his parents’ reaction was just to laugh. While in South Korea, I had frequently witnessed parents indulge their children; this was the only time that I saw parents permit clearly unacceptable behavior. I said “NO!” (in Korean) as clearly and emphatically as I could; he looked completely astonished. I had to say “no” again and gesture before he stepped off my pack. :-( Fortunately, he didn’t break anything.

The ferry soon arrived and I returned to Hahoe. It seemed much more compact than Yangdong: Properties abutted one another, rather than sprawling over adjacent hills, and the lanes that separated compounds seemed more narrow. Like Yangdong, there was a mix of houses with tiled roofs and those with thatch and there were stone and reed fences that separated compounds and flower-edged courtyards. I also remember the man wearing traditional dress who carried himself with indisputable dignity and especially, the shaman tree, nearly hidden in a far corner of the village, bedecked with prayer ribbons….

<b>Dinner in Andong.</b> There were several restaurants near my hotel in Andong; the one I had targeted was closed that night, but there was one that was obviously very popular so I decided to try it. My guess, from what I could see through the windows, was that it specialized in galbi – barbecued meat. I had barely been seated when a young man who was eating there with some friends came over to say that he would try to help me with my order. I appreciated his assistance, because it turned out that the server did not speak English. The only problem was that I couldn’t understand everything this young man said! I heard him say something about pork belly and starting with just one order…. Soon enough, a small serving of what did, indeed, look like pork belly arrived and was placed on my tabletop grill; kimchee was also placed on the grill where it would catch the drippings; and a set of tongs and shears was placed within my reach. I moved the kimchee aside sooner than I suspect is considered ideal and I let the meat cook until substantially rendered, and the ONLY problem I had was that I wanted more! So I tried to signal to my server that I wanted more, and it must have worked because another serving of meat arrived. :-) This was not my best meal of the trip, but it was good, and some of the banchan were absolutely delicious!

<< While in South Korea, I had frequently witnessed parents indulge their children; this was the only time that I saw parents permit clearly unacceptable behavior.>>

I observed this in both Japan and Korea. I think it is interesting that very young children are indulged in bad behavior but once the kids are school aged they are expected to work their little fannies off and get good grades. My son taught English to Kindergarten age kids and some of them were little pistols!

@ SeeHag – I’m glad to know I’m not the only person to observe the indulgent approach South Koreans (and Japanese) take to their children! That transition from hyper-indulged to high-expectations must be very difficult.


<u>Day 24</u>: <b>Explore Andong </b>

My hotel did not serve breakfast, but there was a café/pastry shop just a few short blocks away, the Mammoth Bakery. OMG, I would weigh a ton if I lived near this place! I tried a freshly baked, still-warm bun filled with cream cheese and learned an entirely new definition of “contentment.” :-) Even the coffee there was decent!

<b>Dowan Seowan.</b> This centuries-old Confucian academy, now a museum, is not far from Andong and is, IMO, well worth a visit. The bus drops one off at the start of a short, lovely walk that provides views of a temple-styled memorial on a hilly finger of land around which a river curves.

The academy itself occupies a set of interconnected terraces that climb a hill. I found any number of memorable elements: the two library buildings set on stilts to ensure proper ventilation; a “lecture hall” with stunning vistas; a scholar’s study with a tiny, square, man-made lotus pond full of frogs; a lovely gate (closed) to a shrine…. Add in lots of butterflies, a variety of birds, some huge old trees, and a few gorgeously blooming flowers -- what a lovely place!

Once back at the parking lot from which I could catch a bus back to Andong, one of the women who ran a shop there offered me a cup of tea. How nice!

<b> Andong Folk Museum.</b> I returned to Andong and then, without even leaving the bus stop, almost immediately caught a different bus to the Andong Folk Museum. I thought this museum (which was another well-signed museum with some exterior displays) was particularly good at showing some of the differences between local buildings. As one example: “Magpie” holes (triangular spaces on the short sides of 2 story, thatched buildings, just below the roof line) promoted ventillation.

<b> Andong Folk Village.</b> It was just a few steps to the Andong Folk Village, the last of the outdoor museums I visited on this trip. It is another place to which buildings have been moved, in this case, in response to the construction of a dam.

Shortly beyond the entry area, there was a large pond with various rose-colored lotus in bloom and a central focal point. Off to the side, 5 women, all dressed in black and white outfits that were clearly meant to mark a special day, were taking turns taking pictures of each other. I was happy to volunteer to do what I could to capture their time together. Quite in contrast to the group at Yandong, these women all professed complete delight in the first few shots I took -- and then, LOL, they each insisted on taking pictures individually, and in various groupings, with me.

I spent a couple of pleasant hours climbing in and around and through various buildings. There were some nice views over the river that flowed by the base of the hill and a working water wheel and some buildings that were slightly different than any I had seen elsewhere, not to mention a toad and some birds….

There was a walkway along the river that led to a bridge with a mid-stream pavilion – it looked enticing! But before I went, I took a few moments to consider my options: It seemed that if I left soon, I could still visit Bongjeongsa this day. I’m sure I would have enjoyed more time at the Andong Folk Village, but I didn’t think I would be missing anything that I would particularly regret not seeing. So I caught the next bus to Andong. I had time to return to the Mammoth Café for a latte before moving on.

The bus to Bongjeongsa seemed to double as a school bus, and it went in and out of ennumerable little hamlets, bouncing over some very poorly paved areas, and even crossing some canals on what seemed to be unreasonably thin concrete slabs. How shall I put this… I had no reason to doubt it, but I wish I had shared that bus driver’s incredible confidence in his skills and knowledge of what was often an exceedingly narrow and seemingly precarious roadway. ;-)

<b>Bongjeongsa. </b> The driver signaled that I should get off in a parking lot by the entrance to this temple. I paid my entrance fee and then began a slow ascent to the main temple area. Finally climbing a staircase under a delighfully plain, unpainted bell and drum pavillion (which was also unusual in having two stories on the downhill side and only one on the uphill side, where the main temple grounds were), I entered the temple’s small, intimate courtyard.

Bongjeongsa has some of South Korea’s oldest extant temple elements – its oldest temple building and (I think) its oldest temple mural. Too, the wooden columns to the sides of the altar in the buidling with the mural still bear traces of painted dragons that appear to enwrap them. Between those two buildings, there is a 9th century seated stone Buddha, and nearby, a stone pagoda of a similar age. I saw just a few other people while there – maybe three visitors, one monk, and a woman tending to some of the plants. For most of my time in this lovely temple, it seemed like I had it to myself – such a treat!

I enjoyed a leisurely walk back through the wooded hillside, and while I awaited my bus, I listened to the sonorous ringing of the temple bell calling the monks to evening prayers. I couldn’t help but thinking how very, VERY lucky I am to see and eperience these things!

<b>Dinner.</b> I had hope to sample a steamed chicken dish for which Andong is known, but couldn’t find a place that served it for one, and the minimum price for en entire chicken (between $50 and $75 at the few places I checked) was enough to make me pause. In contrast, salted mackerel – another local specialty – was affordable. If not my favorite meal of this trip, it was still very good – a little drier than I would have liked, and not as salty as I had feared.

Hang in there, folks – just a few days to go! :-)


<u>Day 25</u>: <b>Move on to Yeongju and visit Buseoksa </b>

I once again began my day at the Mammoth Bakery, this time trying the red bean bun AND a walnut one along with my coffee – both were amazing! And, with a while to wait before my train, I FINALLY began writing postcards to friends and family.

<b>Transit to Yeongju.</b> I had a direct train to Yeongju, and again, people at both ends were incredibly helpful. Once in Yeongju, I stopped at the only information desk I saw, and even though it was for transit (not tourist) information, two young women insisted on walking out of the station with me to point me toward my hotel.

<b>Rich Hotel.</b> This is the hotel I hadn’t been able to book in advance, in the city for which I had difficulty finding advance information about lodging options. Here’s my TA review:

“I spent one night in a double for single use at the Rich Hotel. It met my needs for one night. Only a block or so from the Yeongju (train) Station, it is in an area with a number of restaurants and coffee shops. 



“My room was just OK: The shower was barely tolerable: It was designed to have a set of sprays from the wall (only one was functional, and it was broken, so the water flowed downward rather than streaming out), an overhead fixture (gone, with just a dribble of water coming from the hole that would once have held the fixture), and a hand-held nozzle (the only functioning component), that, when in it’s fixed location, was positioned too low for my satisfaction. There was a large sink with sloping sides, and no other flat surfaces in the bathroom, so there was almost no space for one’s toiletries. The hotel offered free wifi, but it didn’t work in my room, so I had to go to the main floor to check my e-mail. So basically, my needs were met, but not as well as I would have liked.



“English was not spoken at the desk (and I'm not saying it should have been); as a result, I couldn't communicate with them about the problems I found with the room, nor could they offer a solution.”

<b>Transit to Buseoksa.</b> My reason for going to Yeongju was to visit Buseoksa. Finding advance information about how to get there had proven particularly frustrating. Several of my guidebooks, and information from the temple’s website, led me to expect that there were at least three buses each way each day. Google Maps led me to believe that the three that went there all left very early in the day and the three that came back all returned quite late in the day. I decided in advance that I would check my options, and if necessary, consider hiring a taxi for the trip.

The map I had didn’t show the intercity bus station, so I took a taxi – and thank goodness I did, because it was quite some distance away. There, the ticket agent, who didn’t speak English, communicated that there were no more buses that day – but she also signaled to a man who was chatting with some people at a noodle shop inside the station. She spoke to him briefly, and then he signaled that I should follow him. We went 2 or 3 blocks to a city bus stop; he pointed to some bus schedules posted on a shop there and went in to get the shopkeeper. The shopkeeper spoke a little English, and he told me that these buses (their numbers were included in the postings) would go to Buseoksa; he recommended one because it would take much less time to get there. Again, I am in awe of the efforts people took to help me!

<b>Buseoksa.</b> I had just missed a bus, so it took a while, but the recommended bus did indeed take me to the shop-filled area outside of the temple. Once on the bus, I found the scenery interesting – more ridges and valleys and rice paddies and a lot of orchards – field after field after field of orchards growing plastic bags. ;-) Apparently, once each individual piece of fruit reaches an appropriate stage of development, a plastic bag is placed around it to protect it from insects or birds or whatever. Further evidence that there are things that can happen in a land where labor is inexpensive that just don’t happen elsewhere!

I was surprised by the number of tourist shops and restaurants between the bus stop and the temple -- more than I had encountered at most temples in South Korea. And then I turned into the temple grounds, where – as I had seen elsewhere -- just a few vendors were to be found. One of them sold me an absolutely delicious apple – but only after surveying every apple she had to decide which one was best. :-)

Like so many temples in South Korea, Buseoksa is uphill. From the time one leaves the mass of shops, it is an uphill climb – first a long slope, and then a steeper slope, and then stairs, and then steeper stairs, and then very steep stairs under and through a glorious two-level drum and bell pavillion … and once inside the main part of the temple, there are more stairs to climb and hills to ascend. And OMG, every step was worth it!

Buseoksa is, IMO, truly lovely, with some gorgeous buildings; some impressive ancient stupas and lanterns; trees and flowers;and absolutely thoroughly jaw-droppingly spectacular views out over the surrounding area. It’s oldest building, just barely “newer” than the oldest one in South Korea (which I had seen the day before at Bongjeongsa), seemed to me a bit more elegantly graceful in its lines. The grounds hold a pair of very old seated stone Buddhas and some boulders that appear to be floating downhill (although they are quite stable). Way up on the hill, there were a pair of small shrines; I was about to step out of one when some people came in, so I stepped back – and only then realized that the entire back wall of that shrine is a mural. Wow! Once again, I felt incredibly fortunate to see this place.

I continued to enjoy the stunning views as I made my way back down the long hill leading out of this temple, pausing for a while to chat with a very nice English-speaking vendor near the gate.

<b>Return to Yeongju.</b> I easily found my bus back to Yeongju, and from the bus stop in Yeongju, I hailed a taxi to take me to my hotel, using the hotel’s card to give the drive the address. The driver apparently thought it was a different hotel with which he was familiar, and went there before recognizing the mistake. He stopped and asked for the card again. I gave it to him, and also showed him the Korean word for the train station (since it was near the hotel) and pointed to my map. He studied all that for a while, and then started driving again. When we got there, he turned off the meter, shrugged, and waved “no.” Wow -- he was ready to forego his fare entirely! I offered the same amount I had paid for the taxi from the hotel to the bus station; he initially declined, but then accepted it. :-)

<b>Dinner.</b> Once back in town, I walked around for a while, exploring the area and window-shopping for a place to eat. I found a pleasant little place that sold, among other things, blue crab soup. This tiny eatery didn’t sell beer, but the woman said that I could buy one at a 24/7 shop next door and bring it in, so I did. The soup was incredibly good, and although it wasn’t accompanied by the array of banchan to which I had become accustomed, each of the three side dishes with which it was served was really tasty – kimchee, a bit of perfectly seasoned duck, and a delicious cold soup with hints of sweet and sour. The food came to about $9.

<u>Day 26</u>: <b>Return to Seoul </b>

<b>Return to Seoul.</b> After stopping at a pastry shop for a sweet roll and coffee, I took a taxi to the bus station and then a longish (2.5 hour) bus to Seoul. While aboard, I savored my last glimpses of rural South Korea and finished writing postcards. Once in Seoul, I had a bit of difficulty finding the nearest subway station, but was soon on board. A transfer or two later, and I reached a station that wasn’t too far from my hotel. I hailed a cab, and the driver entered the address into his GPS system, but it was only enough to get him to the right neighborhood. I thanked myself for having had the foresight to find my hanok before leaving Seoul, and so could to tell him where to stop. :-) It was only a short walk.

<b>Haemil Guesthouse.</b> Here’s my TA review:

“I spent 3 nights in a double-for-single-use room at the Haemil Guesthouse, which I thought a charming and well-located hanok (traditional home).



“This traditional hanok is small – just three rooms and a small courtyard. I found a lot of charm in this small space -- the plants surrounding the courtyard table, the goldfish swimming in their table-top ‘pool,’ the child’s costume on the wall of my room. And Lucy, the proprietor, couldn’t have been more gracious, even when multiple guests were vying for her attention. 



“Breakfasts were very tasty, there were delicious late-night treats, and even a completely unnecessary (but very much appreciated) container of finger-food for me to savor after a very early morning departure. 



“For my purposes, the location was superb: I was within easy walking distance of 3 different subway lines and multiple sites of interest to me. I thought it a tad difficult to find: I had been in Seoul before my stay here, and spent some time one night walking around to find it. I was glad I did! When I arrived with luggage in hand, I took a taxi from a nearby metro station, and even though the driver didn’t know where (exactly) the Guesthouse was, I did. 



“To be clear: This is a hanok – a tradtional dwelling with small rooms and without Western style beds. You sleep on eastern mattresses, which are placed on the wooden floor. Some Westerners find this type of bedding too hard or too low to be comfortabe. [sic] If you don’t like it, you won’t have another option at this guesthouse – there is no space for a Western mattress! I used two mattress pads and found it comfortable enough for a short stay.”

Although the proprietor (Lucy) was there to greet me, my room was not yet ready, so I left my luggage, got directions to the nearest Post Office, and headed out.

<b>Back in Seoul.</b> On the way, I ran into one of the people who worked at the hostel at which I had originally stayed, and LOL, he clearly remembered me and greeted me with real warmth. I stopped with him at the hostel’s desk and told them a bit about my journey.

As I went to the Post Office along streets I had walked before, I couldn’t help but notice how different it seemed: On my first few days in Seoul, it had seemed so new, so alien, and just a bit anxiety-provoking; now it felt familiar and welcoming.

I found the Post Office and showed the woman my cards and she showed me the price: Wow, nearly $4 per card – I certainly didn’t expect that! But hey, everything else has been very reasonable, so I laid out my cash and the woman looked at it … and then showed me the price again: It was $0.40 per card. :-) She joined in on my laughter.

<b>Insadong.</b> Insadong was almost right across the street, and I went there to tackle my shopping needs. I had gone less than a half block when I spun on my heels and returned to the start of the street, where there was a TI: Is there anywhere in this area where I can get a glass of wine or beer? Well, that question stumped those three staff people! ;-) They conversed and consulted listings and spoke on the phone and finally found a place.

Insadong seemed to have something for everyone -- everything from rather tacky souvenirs to extremely high-end master-craftsman quality goods. It had more foreigners, and specifically more Westerners, than I saw just about anywhere in South Korea other than the airport at Incheon. While the main street was broad and had benches, there were also narrow side streets lined with wares; there was a lovely traditional courtyard surrounded by tea pavillions not far from a 3-story open-court mall filled with teenagers.

I made a circuit of the shops, making notes on the things I thought might match my gift-giving aspirations. And then I went to the place the TI staff had identified – a place on the very outskirts of the area that had a few shaded outdoor tables. Perfect! I sipped a beer while studying my notes and formulating a plan.

After that, it was fairly easy to complete my shopping: I knew what I wanted, I knew both the marked prices and what I was willing to pay, and I had back-up options in mind. I didn’t bargain hard, but I did bargain a bit, and was pleased that in at least one case, a merchant came after me to say she would meet my price after all. (She said it a bit differently, something like … “I have some other items available at the price you offered….” :-) ) I have no illusion that I got things at the best possible price, but I paid no more than I was willing to pay and I got a number of things for less than that. And the single best thing was that I finished ALL my shopping that afternoon -- what a relief!

<b>Dinner.</b> I took my purchases back to my hanok, where my room was now ready. The proprietor brought me a delicious little treat as I settled in. She also recommended a nearby place for dinner: It was a small place specializing in galbitang (a soup made with beef short ribs and other tasty stuff), and it was, indeed, very good, as were the banchan.

kja....omigosh - staying in a hanok would make me feel that I was in a Korean drama....I guess toilet facilities are shared?

This shopping area, Insadong, is an outdoor market? Or are you saying you could actually bargain in a regular shop?

40 cents US for a postcard is pretty good - from Japan it was 70 cents. From Paris if I recall it was more like a dollar.

Caught up with you! Yes, I spent an afternoon in Insadong and really enjoyed mooching around. I'm not a shopper either.
I know what you mean about returing to somewhere you had been before. Second time it feels very familiar when it was all new and strange first time. Was your hanok near Insadong? It's a convenient location.

@ Mara - Sounds like you are destined for a stay in a hanok! Mine – the Haemil Guesthouse -- had en suite toilet facilities, and I think several others do, too. When you plan your time in Seoul, I suspect that you’ll find several options that each meet most of your goals, even if none is perfect. And for a long weekend, you won’t have much to lose!

Insadong is a shop-lined street, not an outdoor market (although some shops have a stand or two outside). Although most shops were not shared, there were a few retail spaces that several vendors shared, each with a counter or two or three – but not like an Asian market, more like the cosmetics floor of an American department store – each counter (plus) was devoted to a vendor, much as a counter in an American department store might be devoted to a single cosmetics company.

And yes, I did bargain in these shops. It seemed to me that the worst that could happen is that they would say no, and I would either agree or not. No harm in asking, or at least, I assumed there was no harm as long as I was pleasant about it, and no one seemed to take offense. I think there was only one shop where my request was flatly rejected; the clerk said (quite nicely) something like, “I’m sorry, our prices are already rock bottom.” That store’s prices WERE lower for comparable items than any other store I visitied. The items about which I inquired were things I thought might be good “add-ons” if I found myself running short of gifts, not anything major and not anything for which I was willing to pay above a certain price (which was lower than the ticketed one), so I said I understood, thanked her, and left. It was all quite cordial.

As for postage, 40 cents US for a postcard struck me as REALLY low – I have paid MUCH more! That's why I didn’t pass out when I thought she said $4 per postcard! ;-)

BTW, the next “installment” includes my last glimpses of the Han River, which I know is something that has caught your interest....


@ gertie – I’m glad you are still traveling along with me! If we crossed paths while in Seoul, it would have been around this time. I have an image in my mind’s eye of us passing each other in Insadong or you leaving a palace just as I enter it or whatever….

My hanok was within a 10 or 15 minute-walk of Insadong – very convenient indeed! For my purposes in visiting Seoul, staying within a few blocks of the main Chandeokgung gate could not have been better, whether in a hanok (the end of my visit) or a hostel (the start of my visit) or a real hotel (and there are a few around).

I love that feeling of finding familiarity in what was once alien – it seems to me a testament to the growth that comes with exploration and the challenges that come with novelty and the ways in which my personal vision of the world changed through the course of my journey. No matter the actual space I occupy, my inner universe is still expanding, and to me, that’s part of the reasaon for travel. :-)

I have just caught up with you! My sister has been staying with me this week, so we have been doing a lot of sightseeing and staying busy. Am now on the train to Washington. (Yes, wifi on a non-Acela Amtrak!)

Such a great TR! I think you have convinced me to go back to SK. Especially as there were so many places I didn't get to last time that you enjoyed.

BTW, I had trouble with the lockers in Daegu station too, even before the fingerprint pads were installed. When I had my fingerprints taken for my US naturalization, the guy doing it got very annoyed because I have worn most of the print off with too much keyboarding! I'm not sure I could get those lockers to work at all now.

@ thursdaysd – LOL, now THAT ws a lot of keyboarding! (i'm going to hazard a guess that you don't need me to tell you that.... ;-) ) Thanks for the kind words! I hope you and your sister enjoyed your time together.


<u>Day 27</u>: <b> Seoul </b>

After a tasty breakfast of bibimbap and a cup of coffee at a nearby café, I headed to …

<b>Gyeongbokgung,</b> the largest of Seoul’s palaces. I bought my ticket and found a good place to watch the <b>changing of the guard.</b> Yet another reenactment, this one had lots of intent-looking men marching from place to place, many carrying flags. There was a call-to-arms by drum-beat, and great ceremony, and some wonderfully colorful costumes. Again, it may be for tourists, but I am a tourist, and I enjoyed it!

The <b>National Folk Museum</b> is in a far back corner of Gyeongbokgung’s grounds, and the path is not particularly well marked IMO. I had reserved an English tour that was to begin at 10:30 a.m, just after the changing-of-the-guard ceremony, and I barely made it!

I was the only person to join this tour, and my English-speaking guide could not have been better! Instead of the usual 1.5-hour tour, we spent almost 2’20” together, and I found her absolutely delightful and informative! Those of you who have travelled along with me will know that I have an interest in local customs, and that I had pursued those interests as I made my way through South Korea, starting with my visit to the Korean Folk Village on my initial stay in Seoul. Visiting this particular musuem at the end of my journey, and with the benefit of a knowledgeable guide, provided a bit of a “capstone” experience, allowing me to see things with a more clearly articulated perspective (local vs. national, pre-Joseon vs. Joseon, etc.). Awesome -- I couldn’t thank my guide enough!

I had enough time to meander a bit as I returned to the entry gate for an English <b>tour of the palace</b>. There are, IMO, some very impressive elements to this palace, and I learned some things that I might not otherwise have known by joining the tour (e.g., that the traditional paints used on the eaves help preserve the wood). But I will also say that – for me – this palace truly paled in comparison to Beijing’s Forbidden City. I’m sure that a huge part of the difference is that Gyeongbokgung is almost entirely a reconstruction. Still, the imperial “business” halls seemed less imposing, even if measured only by the number of dragon-paneled staircases that led to them. And in contrast to the Forbidden City, where one of the things that impressed me most was the intimacy of the living quarters, the imperial residences at Gyeongbokgung seemed far less intimate – but maybe I just couldn’t place what I was seeing in context. That said, I still thought Gyeonbokgung worth visiting, and I appreciated the chance to see it with the help of an English-speaking guide.

Once that tour ended, I had JUST enough time to reach the <b>Palace Museum</b>, also within Gyeogbokgung’s grounds, for which I had also reserved a tour – or so I thought! The people at its desk seemed truly surprised – they had no record of my reservation, and unfortunately, none of their English-speaking guides were available. OK, I thought, if no one is here who speaks English, well, that’s unfortunate, but I’ll go on about my way. But the staff were upset that my reservation had gone without notice, so they asked for a copy and they called in a supervisor and in the end, we got to the root of it: My reservation was for the National Palace Museum … of Beijing! =-o OMG, I do not know how that happened. But once the supervisor identified it, and we each looked at each other in dismay, I laughed and (thank goodness) they all did, too. I apologized profusely, rented an English audio-guide, and moved on.

I thought the Palace Museum exhibits a bit thin, undoubtedly because so much had been lost to wars and fires. Perhaps the most interesting display (from my perspective) was a “self-ringing water clock.” I saw this odd and, I thought, rather uninteresting 2-story contraption from a distance, and was just about to turn away when it rang. OMG! With that fortuitous timeliness, I spent some time reading the signage and looking more closely at this wierdly interesting clockpiece, which seems to be driven by the spillage of buckets that tilt when enough water fills them….

I spent a little bit more time exploring corners of the palace grounds that hadn’t been covered, or had been covered only quickly. My favorite area was by the dining pavillion, which was surrounded on three sides by a man-made pond that held a few stationary “centerpieces.” Almost every bench along its edges held couples, young and old, who were enjoying the scenery. As I watched some ducks fly up and land again, I realized that one of the things on that pond was not stationary – it was a floating island! A rectangle of sod, maybe 8 feet by 4 feet (give or take a LOT), topped by high grasses and other plants, was meandering about. How cool!

<b>Transit to Namsan / Seoul Tower.</b> By the time I left Gyeongbokgung, it was after 5:00 p.m. I was only steps from Insadong, and from “my” refuge there, so I enjoyed a beer before moving on. My goal was to reach Seoul Tower in time for sunset, and I had read that getting there can take quite a while. So I wasn’t terribly surprised by how VERY long the wait for the cable car to the base of the tower was (WELL over an hour). But I somehow managed to time it right: the sun was JUST dipping toward the horizon as my cable car ascended.

<b>Seoul Tower / N Grill.</b> I had considered making a dinner reservation at the N Grill, the restaurant at the tower’s top, but hadn’t done so – I wasn’t sure that I would reach the tower in time or that I wanted to spend a chunk of change for a meal that wasn’t Korean (it’s French/Continental). But there I was, whooshing upwards on the elevator, and the woman who controlled the ascent asked if anyone was going to N Grill, and I said, "yes." I decided to let opportunity rule: If they had a table, I would take it; if not, so be it.

They could seat me! :-) It was not a window-side seat, and so I was not on the rotating part of the restaurant, but it offered magnificent views nonetheless. Even better: Not long after I was seated, a window-side table opened up, and the staff kindly moved me there, and I ended up with a full rotation from that seat.

The views were gorgeous! As the sun set and lights came on, I saw different parts of the city come into focus and then, in a beautiful dance of colors, various parts of the city yielded center-stage to others -- and not just because of the restaurant's rotation! Once the sky darkened, the massive Han River claimed it’s place in the panorama: It formed a huge loop through the visible part of the city, separating brightly lit areas from others, with narrow lighted lines demarcating the bridges that spanned it. Breathtaking!

Here’s my TA review of the N Grill:

“I ate one dinner at the N Grill and thought the food good (but not great), the service excellent, and the views outstanding. It was by far the most expensive meal I ate while in Korea, and it cost more than I would have paid for comparable or even better food in (say) NYC, Chicago, or Washington, DC, but I knew the prices in advance and made the decision to go for the views. And yes, I thought the views worth it.”

Oh no - I think the last day of your trip is coming up.....oy...I'm not ready to go home yet. :(

@ Mara – You are correct, it is nearly time to pack your vicarious bags. :-( You have been a fantastic traveling companion! When I began this LONG trip report, I wondered whether anyone would read anything I had to say. I am so pleased that you, and others, decided to travel along with me! I’ll miss your wonderful questions... but let’s not jump ahead of ourselves – it’ll take at least one more post for me to finish up....

Well, we had an almost identical day! But how interesting that it was different probably because of our different personalities. I think I am a later starter than you: by the time I got to Gyeongbokgung the changing of the guard had almost finished. Yes, there were crowds of tourists pushing and shoving to get their pictures taken with the participants...who as you say, were splendiforously dressed in wonderful bright colours. I am not good with crowds and tend to walk in the opposite direction if I see a 'spectacle' that I am supposed to gawp at.
So I too made my way into the temple and was almost swamped by big very noisy groups of mainly Chinese tourists. Lots of school groups. Very few non-Asians. I avoided the guided tours simply because I always do: hate being herded and told what to do and where to go. But it sounds like I should have joined the English-speaking tour. Not only were there few people, I might have met you!!
So off I set with my guidebook and camera. Spent hours just walking around the gardens, sitting watching the grass grow and keeping away from the big groups. Once off the main 'concourse' this was not difficult.
The Palace Museum was mobbed. There were vast numbers of tour buses outside and throngs of yelling schoolkids all around. I told myself I would go back later in the day but....
Around 4pm I too set off for Namsan. I must have been a bit ahead of you. There were no crowds, no long lines. I walked up to the cable car station, got a ticket and got on the next car. No other gaijin either. Nice views from the top but again I was put off by the queues for the lift up to the Seoul Tower so didn't go! There were a lot of families taking the late-afternoon air and waiting for the sunset. After a fair bit of walking around and enjoying the views from all sides, I took the cable car down again just before the sunset. I was constrained by time: had to get back down and to the hotel for dinner! But I would certainly recommend a trip up Namsan. There are walks around the mountain and what looked like quite easy walks up and down. If I had had more time....
Where are you going tomorrow???

@ gertie – LOL, we really were crossing paths that day, and probably parts of this one, too! I wonder how many pictures we have of each other. ;-)

Like you, I usually skip group tours, relying instead on my guidebook(s), but I had heard so many positive comments about the English-language tours of Gyengbokgung and Changdeokgung that I signed up for them, and then added in some time for individual exploration. BTW, I got to the Palace Museum at about 4, and found it extremely quiet – there were just a few other people around. I guess timing really matters!


<u>Day 28</u>: <b> Seoul </b>

I began my day with a very tasty dish of rice with an egg and other goodies and then asked for some help from my proprietor. I think I mentioned, as an example of the difficulty I had while planning my time in South Korea, that I hadn’t been able to nail down WHICH two weeks in May the Gansong Museum would be open. (I’m sure you have all been anxiously awaiting the answer…. ;-) ) Lucy called for me, and learned that it was not open. :-( BUT some of its most prized items were on display as part of a special exhibit at the Dongdaemun History & Culture Park, and Lucy showed me where that was. She also helped me confirm a reservation I had for a performance at the Korea House that evening, because the e-mails I had received about it had been a bit confusing. We also made arrangements for my early morning departure the next day.

<b>Changdeokgung.</b> I didn’t wait long for the English tour of this palace, which was led by a very nice young man. Unlike Gyeongbokgung, this palace is not aligned in a single axis, instead branching in various directions based on the lay of the land. I thought it had some very nice features, including a blue ceramic roof on one of the buildings that would have served as an office for the king and a lovely residence built for the last king’s concubine.

Once the tour of the palace buildings ended, I joined the tour of <b>Biwon, aka the “Secret Garden,” </b> another UNESCO WHS. One can only visit this area with a tour; an advance reservation (which I had) is recommended. The tour group was quite large – maybe 40 people or so. We spent about 1.5 hours seeing the highlights of this hilly, forested area that held some lovely pavillions and man-made ponds and restful corners. Gorgeous!

I stopped at a café within the palace grounds for a refreshing glass of “citrone ice tea” and then explored just a few more nooks and crannies before leaving.

<b>Tapgol, a park.</b> On my way to this park, I ran into another person who worked at the hostel in which I initially stayed; I was greeted warmly and asked about my trip. :-) By coincidence, I had asked this particular staff person about Tapgol early in my trip, noting that one of my guidebooks said it would be a good place for people-watching. His response had been something like, “Well, sure, I suppose … if you want to look at a bunch of old men sitting and doing basically nothing.” ;-) I had thought that he was exaggerating. Not! But the 10-tiered stone pagoda that is the small park’s centerpiece was impressive. It was a bit hard to see through the glass structure that protects it, but it had some beautiful reliefs and elegant proportions. The park also held an impressive stela and some grand, old trees.

<b>On my way through Seoul.</b> I walked a bit of the recovered stream that I had walked during one of my first nights in Seoul -- <b>Cheonggyecheon</b> -- in daylight. This time, I could see some of the huge fish that make a home here, watching them swim a bit upstream and then ride the current back into a shaded spot. I then walked through the <b>Gwangjang fabric market</b> -- what an astounding array of tiny vendor’s stalls, each seemingly filled from floor to ceiling with bolts of fabric!

<b> Dongdaemun History & Culture Park – Exhibit from the Gangsong (aka Kangsong) Art Musuem.</b> As I understand it, the private G/Kangson collection was begun by a man who, during the days of Korea’s Japanese occupation, tried to purchase some of Korea’s most notable works of art before they left the country – and he had some remarkable successes. I felt incredibly fortunate to see any of this collection; to see some of its most valued pieces in a well-spaced display with good English signage and a good audio-guide was a real pleasure – and not merely because I had almost given up on seeing it!

<b>Namdaemun area. </b> Next, I made my way by subway to <b>Namdaemun (aka Sungnyemun)</b>, one of Seoul’s reconstructed city gates. It was a bit difficult to find and hard to circumnavigate (because it is surrounded on several sides by a traffic circle), but it might merit a moment if you haven’t seen other similar city gates.

I then roamed around the <b> Namdaemun market.</b> The parts I saw had more dry goods and fewer foods or traditional items than other markets I had seen, but there were lots of lively street-food stalls and great people-watching opportunities and interesting things for sale and (you can trust me on this) PLENTY of opportunities to become seriously lost…. :-( But, of course, people were very helpful, so I eventually found my way back to the subway and on to Korea House, where I had a reservation for a performance.

<b>Dinner at Arirang.</b> OMG, just across the street from the entrance to the Korea House was a branch of Arirang – a restaurant that Robert (@ AskOksana) had recommended! It met my needs perfectly – I had a delicious meal of mushroom bulgogi with a ton of banchan and a beer and attentive service. :-) (Thanks, Robert!)

<b>Korea House performance.</b> The show at the Korea House features traditional music and dance with the full benefit of make-up and costuming and lighting and a degree of theatricality that lifted the performances enough to make them seem worthy, IMO, of my last night in South Korea. (The Korea House also serves dinner, but not for solo diners.) I had seen some of the dances before in various folk performances along my way, but most of the segments were new to me and quite lovely. Sadly, I think there were less than 10 people in attendance. I hope the performers knew that their efforts were appreciated!

I returned to my hotel to begin preparing for my departure early the next morning. Shortly after I got there, I heard a knock on the door -- Lucy (my proprietor) was there with a delicious treat of Korean melon and makgeolli. :-) What a perfect way to end my month in South Korea!


<u>Day 29</u>: <b> Seoul to home</b>

It wasn’t easy for me to get up at about 5:30 a.m., but I did so, and I finished the last of my packing. I didn’t expect it, and so was very pleasantly surprised to find that Lucy was there as I left; she handed me a bag of finger-food for my journey. :-) It was only steps to the stop for the bus to the airport. I was also surprised to see that it was already almost full – I hadn’t even considered that! Thankfully, there were still a few seats.

Once at the airport, I checked in, bought treats for my friends and co-workers, relaxed with a cup of coffee or two, and eventually boarded my flight. It was a LONG (~14.5 hr) flight. At least it had good service and decent food. It could have been much worse!

By the time I reached home, I was completely and thoroughly exhausted, and not just from the flight! Throw in some jet lag, and it took my quite a while to get back into my normal routine. But OMG, I would not have given up a single moment of this wonderful journey just to be better rested upon my return!


<b> FINAL THOUGHTS: </b>

My fear, prior to this trip, was that I would end up thinking it a waste of my very precious travel time. With good fortune, I’ll continue to travel well into the future, but I already think that it will take until I’m about 105 to cover my A list <u><b>if </b></u>I maintain my current travel style – and that’s certainly not going to happen! ;-) So I KNOW that I will never see all the things in the world that I would most like to see, and that makes me think very carefully about each destination I select. I had a long-term, but nonspecific, belief that I would like to see South Korea, and as I researched my options, I kept finding things that I thought I would enjoy. In fact, I ended up with way too many things on my wishlist for South Korea, and had to both cut some destinations and extend the number of days I allocated to the trip. But there wasn’t any single, specific thing that I anticipated seeing or experiencing in Korea that was a lifelong dream, and I kept wondering why so many very well-traveled people I know, in person or on this board, had never been to South Korea at all, or had visited only briefly. As a result, I felt an undertone of dissonance throughout the time I planned the trip and especially as my departure date approached.

I have NO regrets about having chosen South Korea! :-) Despite the loss of so much of its cultural heritage to wars and fires and looting, etc., I found a great deal that I thought well worth seeing – temples and museums and scenery and markets…. I encountered a diverse array of things (one of my goals) and saw a wide range of folk traditions and performances (another goal). The food far exceeded my expectations – so many, many wonderful dishes! And I have a supply of “shower towers” that I hope will last me for many, many years! ;-)

Perhaps more than anything else, it was the South Korean people who made this trip so special for me, and I hope that I have given ample evidence of the incredible warmth and hospitality that I encountered. :-) I’ve said before, and I will say again – I have been the fortunate beneficiary of untold kindnesses from people everywhere I have ever gone, and even against that background, the people of South Korea stand out. I wish that each and every one of the many, many people who made this trip so memorable could know how much I appreciated them!


BTW, with so many temples in the forested foothills of South Korea, I would think that fall would be a great time to visit – I bet the views of autumn foliage would be lovely! Or if one could hit cherry blossom season, that would also be special.


Once again, <u>many</u> thanks to all of you who offered help as I planned this trip – amin, AskOksena, gil8713, JC98, LiveLearnTravelTeach, SeeHag, shelemm, and thursdaysd. Much appreciated!


And <u>many</u> thanks to all of you who joined me vicariously for part or all of this journey by reading and commenting on my words – I have truly appreciated your interest and encouragement! (And a word or two from those of you who read this report after it is completed would always be welcome! :-) ) I ended up with the best of both worlds, because I was able to take advantage of the complete freedom that comes with solo travel, and I also get to share my trip with some thoroughly delightful companions. Thanks so much!

Thanks for taking me along KJA. I packed up my vacarious bag lst night (didn't take long) and had been anticipating the wrap along with your usual fine insights.

You tell a great travel story, and I for one look forward to our next journey :)

This report deserves a PhD! Great writing Kja. Busan - Seoul in 2:18? That's fast.

@ sartoric -- greetings and thanks for your compliments! I'm glad to know that you enjoyed the ride and hope we travel together again soon! But I'm jealous: If there's ONE part of a trip I could do vicariously, packing might well be the one I would choose. My ACTUAL packing took a chunk of time, and just before I left, when I had SO much else to do! ;-)


@ colduphere -- thanks so much! I'm not sure I want to go through another round of orals, though.... And while I can't swear to the accuracy of the KTX schedule (since I took the LONG way from Busan to Seoul), I can tell you that a LOT of South Koreans move REALLY fast, especially on routes that left me huffin' and puffin'. :-)

I'm not really ready to pack up yet I'm afraid. I have so enjoyed this journey. I have to agree that South Koreans are exceptionally welcoming and helpful but I've know a number of visitors who haven't felt that. Your experiences say as much about you and your attitude as it does about the wonderful residents.

I plan on going to visit Namdaemun Gate this trip if only to see the roof tiles. I met an elderly man - 82 at the time - who was the last remaining maker of traditional roof tiles. When the gate was destroyed, the government decided that it should be rebuilt with proper handmade tiles even though modern copies look pretty much the same. The potter had more or less given up as he had little work and was getting too old for the heavy work. Its not work I'd wish on anyone as it really is heavy. With the order for the Gate tiles he needed help but as he had lots of daughters who didn't want to take over the business and no sons, he was stuck for getting them done. The government came to his aide and found a few young men who he could train up. It was going to be a 2 year job. When I visited they were making tiles but having many crack because of the intense heat of August.

Anyway job done as the gate was reopened this year.

I mentioned the Human Cultural Treasures - my understanding is that the government has selected crafts/arts etc that they want to see preserved. They then seek out the person who is considered the best in that field and appoint him or her as an HCT. It is their duty to transmit the skills to the next generation. They have students at different levels and from these eventually they will find their successor. The HCT is paid an amount of money to compensate for their time and it is of course a prestigious position. If they become to old or sick to continue (as opposed to just dieing off) they are classed as an Honorary HCT to preserve their dignity. I met a number of potters who have this status in their specific narrow field of expertise. Some of them do other work as well but are HCT for just one area. With only one exception they were all humble people who would go well out of their way to help and advise - pretty much that South Korean nature I guess. The one exception was still a nice man but rather liked to state his superior level probably with reason as he did have the highest status!

With potters it seemed that many trainees are the sons or daughters of the HCT - these days probably the only ones silly enough to take on the job. Other potters did similar work to the HCTs as quite a lot of the work in SK is still traditional and much respected. I didn't hear any remarks about anyone's status but then I don't think they would say anything as it would be impolite and very unSK.

There are also appointments as "Masters" but these seem to be done by a different process and its usually about being exceptional craftsmen/artists in their field which isn't necessarily a traditional one. The man I spent time with last year is a Master - truly one of the greats in his field anywhere in the world. Again quite happy to help and pass on his skills even to a foreigner. Such luck for me.

Well I'm so glad to have been on your trip with you and its given me lots of information for my own upcoming one. Thank you.

Next day I set off through some back streets, quite off the main drags, hoping to see something of life in Seoul as it is lived by ordinary people. And there was lots to see! Mainly small workshops specialising in hardware and little motor-repair shops. And I crossed your waterway further up, lots of people walking along the bank.
Finally got to Umhyeongung, in between the other two huge palace complexes. This one was quite small, no entrance fee, and looked like a series of long low buildings with individual rooms. These were rather spookily set up with life-sized figures of mainly women and children, indicating who lived there and how! No-one around, which suited me fine.
Next I went to Changdeokgung. Of the two big temples, this is the one I preferred. It is like you say a place to meander and find nooks and crannies off the main drag! The Secret Garden Tour was very good: our group was huge, at least 70 people, so it was quite easy to lag behind and become disconnected. We seemed to walk a long way and cover a lot of ground. Our guide was a charming young woman in traditional dress. At the end we were more or less left to our own devices so I spent a bit more time walking around...though closely observed by the staff on guard.
Right next to the entrance to the Secret Garden was the entrance to Changgyeonggung Palace. This was almost completely deserted. I wandered around the huge space scattered with buildings though not as picturesque as the previous ones. There was less greenery too, lots of big open gravel spaces.
Back into Changdeokgung and spent more time looking for interesting angles on pictures. Big loud groups arrived, one of them with a loud-speaker system to call them to order. Time to go! I saw very few, if any, independent western tourists so you were probably not there that day kja!
I finished my sightseeing hoping to see Jongmyo Park but when I finally found the entrance, it was closed until the following day. So I meandered back to my hotel, encountering some American tourists en route with huge suitcases who were looking for a particular hotel. I didn't know where it was, and although I showed them my map and suggested they jump in a taxi, they didn't seem inclined to do that! Certainly wasn't you kja :)

Thanks again, kja, for taking me along on your wonderful trip. As I said earlier, you have inspired me to consider a quick trip to Seoul at some point.....:)

@ MaryW – Oh, I wish I had known that wonderful story about the Namdaemun’s roof tiles before I went – I would have paid much closer attention! And thanks for the information about Human Cultural Treasures – I really appreciate that South Korea is taking steps to preserve and maintain its traditional crafts. Given my experience with South Koreans, it doesn’t surprise me at all to hear that the honorees are almost all humble and generous with their expertise.

Thank you so much for your kind words to me and for sharing my journey and for providing so many insights into South Korean ceramics. Best wishes for your continued success and many more opportunities to work with these extraordinarily gifted and knowledgable people!


@ gertie – Aren’t the back streets of Seoul fascinating!?! Quite a different world than the main streets and IMO, well worth exploring, even though I got lost a few times. ;-) My tour of the Secret Garden may have been with a smaller group, but it was also more controlled – the guide made absolutely certain we all left at the end. ;-) I didn’t make it to Umhyeongung, but was welcomed to Seoul by my night visit to Changgyeonggung, so it holds a special place in my heart. I especially enjoyed its lovely pond.

Thanks so much for sharing some of your fascinating experiences in South Korea over the years and for reading along. I’ll look forward to the next time our paths cross!


@ Mara – and thank you again for joining me! I’m looking forward to hearing what you think of Seoul.

Thank you for the wonderful report! Reading it has made me even more excited for my upcoming trip. We finally have our tickets and we leave five weeks from today with a one week stop in Japan because my husband has a business meeting for a day and a business associate has invited him to golf while we are there. It means more plane and train trips than I would prefer but how can I not be excited about a week in Japan followed by a week in Korea!

I agree with colduphere, this is a master trip report! Thank you for taking so much time and care in putting it together. I don't suppose you have a link to your photos? :)

@ SeeHag – I’m sure Mara will agree that you could do MUCH worse than spend a week in Japan! :-)

If your son’s wife and her family are even a little bit like the people I encountered while in South Korea, then you will be blending your family with a very welcoming and warmhearted one. I’m looking forward to hearing your reactions to Jejudo – enjoy!

Thanks for the compliments, and thank you for posting before I left and as I wrote my report. No link to photos – I haven’t even pulled them onto my computer yet!

Thank you kja. Yes, what a great trip report. It has been fun travelling along with you in Korea and finding out all the places I didn't go to this time. And something I have realised: the palaces and temples I saw in 2014 were simply not there in 1978-1982. They hadn't been restored. Seoul looked totally unrecognisable because it has been completely transformed in the past 40 years. For the better :)

Joining in on this thread VERY late. What an amazing trip report! And I am not using the word 'amazing' like I'm twentysomething, and it is merely ok, like how TGIF serves an 'amazing' Jack Daniels BBQ rib dinner. It truly is an astonishing record of a complex month-long experience with rich detail. I am so throughly impressed on how much you found out so much to see in S. Korea, and that you put it all together. Traveling with a language and cultural barrier is never a snap, and using public transportation is usually one of the more severe challenges. To borrow from the modern vernacular: Best. Trip Report. Ever.

I was in S. Korea for two weeks. In my mind it makes for an ideal country to visit. First world in its communications, clean water, educational system, transportation, highways, comfortable and plentiful hotels and motels, a gazillion palces to eat, and quality infrastructure. But right up against this first world environment is the traditional: expansive markets where you will sometimes see items being sold from the ground, traditional buildings and villages (where people still live), at every restaurant and in every hotel ondol seating/rooms where people sit on the floor. temples where people are actually praying, well tended gardens and agricultural plots, unspoiled mountains, in cities large swaths of alleyways where people live and work, preservation and continued enrichment of folk culture, a uniuque cuisne which preserves its traditions for everyday consumption. and rural people living on seemingly little money. Get out of Seoul and prices drop dramatically. That pair of shoes lying on the ground at a market (sometimes in a huge pile) drops from $25 in Seoul to as little as $5 in Busan. In addition, S. Korea is an intensely mountainous peninsula with a dramatic coastline and hundreds of islands. All the makings of breathtaking travel amid an exotic culture and gorgeous scenery.

For such a little country right off China and dominated for so many years by Japan, the culture is thoroughly and unapologetically distinct.