I'm so impressed -- and pleased -- that some of you continue to follow this long, drawn-out tale -- thanks so much!

@ SeeHag – sounds like your son and daughter-in-law have a lot of common sense: So many young people squander their money on wedding-related events that aren't even what they really want!

Parts of Jeju Island are absolutely gorgeous – I’m sure you will enjoy your time there. And who knows, maybe something I say will prove of use to one or more of you!

@ MaryW – I agree that it makes sense for you to try to identify a more convenient lodging in Gwangju than the one I found.

@MaryW - I messaged my son on Facebook, he isn't the best at getting back to me so I will let you know what he says when and if I get a response!

Wow! He was online and answered me right away! He hasn't heard of the ballad but he said there are tons of love motels in town. He said the love motels in Sangmu tend to be nicer. He mentioned there is now a Best Western and a Hilton there if you want something nicer. Big improvement over six years ago!

SeeHag. Thank you. I'll look up the new hotels and the Sangmu area. I'm kind of hoping to wing it as we may decide to stay at Gangjin longer
- Depends on who is available to meet up with at the time. Lots of love motels will hopefully give us options at the last minute. Just need somewhere clean with preferably a comfy bed. I know comfy is not always an option in SK at least by my definition.

Kja. A lot of what you say is proving useful. It's very entertaining as well. Look forward to more.

Thanks, MaryW!


<u>Day 9</u>: <b>Day trips from Gwangju to Gochang and Soswaewon</b>

My first goal for the day was to visit Gochang. I traveled by train to Jeongeup, where I needed to switch to a bus. A young soldier walked me to the bus station, made sure I got the right ticket, and that I got on the right bus. Mantra-time: How nice! Once in Gochang, I needed to switch from an intercity bus to an intracity bus, and again, people came to my aid. Once I showed one person the directions I had written down in Korean, several people were doing everything they could to help. In this case, they didn’t stop even after I got on a bus that would meet my needs: Someone actually came on the bus to pull me off and onto a different bus! I was to learn that I had initially been (correctly) directed to an intracity bus that would take me close to the museum, but the 2nd bus to which I was taken was a free shuttle that went all the way to the museum and that left at almost the same time. :-) Of course I didn’t realize what had happened until much later. I just knew that the driver didn’t let me pay and that I didn’t face a 15-minute walk to get to the museum, as my planning had led me to expect.

<b>Gochang Goindol. </b> Until I began planning this trip, I had no idea that South Korea has one of the largest arrays of prehistoric megalithic funerary monuments anywhere in the world. Several such areas are covered by the same UNESCO WHS inscription; the Gochang site has the largest and most varied groups.

I bought tickets for the museum and a little train that takes one around the site. The museum was small and had few displays, but there was information to be gleaned there, particularly for those who are not familiar with megaliths. The train went by several areas with large concentrations of dolmen and allowed brief stops at a few of them. The dolmen are scattered over the low reaches of some foothills, with a floodplain at the base. The extent and array of dolmen were impressive. The sounds of glee from the many children who shared my ride were priceless! :-)

After the train returned to the museum, I briefly explored a mock-up of a prehistoric Bronze Age village. I then returned, by foot, to the nearest area with a large concentration of dolmen. I’m sure seeing this place would not be every tourist’s cup of tea, but I found it fascinating! Megaliths awe me – what effort it took to make them! I see in them powerful clues about the communities that were responsible for erecting them, communities that were willing and able to devote so much time and energy of what must have been their strongest and most fit members in the effort to commemorate the death of a leader. That took social organization, and systems for division of labor and wealth, and a commitment to past and future…. (Or at least that’s my take!) Too, there is an enigma about dolmen that intrigues me: Are these megaliths evidence that the memory of the people whose death they marked has, in fact, survived the test of time – that they are not truly and completely forgotten? Or is the message that even the greatest effort cannot preserve their memories, since we generally don’t know anything about the specific individuals involved? Okay, I’ve rambled on enough…

I spent some time roaming around the dolmen and then returned to the museum complex to find my bus. Oh, there was a bus just about to leave! I ran and caught it, but no – it was a chartered bus for a school excursion. I walked around, and then asked, and that’s when I realized that the bus I had taken that morning was a free shuttle, not an intracity bus. There would be a return shuttle later – substantially more than an hour later, as I recall. Or I could walk about 15 minutes to a traffic circle where there was a bus stop. So that’s what changing the bus had been about!

I reached the traffic circle, but didn’t see a sign for a bus stop. I walked around it, went a little way in each direction, and I saw two buses, each of which stopped and – when they saw my destination – shook their heads “no.” And then I saw a taxi and thanked my lucky stars! It was only a few minutes, and cost about $6, to get to the bus station.

<b>Waiting …. </b> Upon my return to the bus station in Gochang, I learned that I needed to go to Gwangju’s intercity bus terminal, and I bought a ticket for the next bus, 50 minutes later. With that long a wait, I decided to see if I could find something to eat, since I the only food I had eaten the day before were some snacks. There was chicken place right at the station, and as I was studying it's picture menu, an English-speaking staff member approached. My brief conversation with this man may have been the most seriously misunderstood, from either side, of my trip. (Heads up, Mara – you asked about communication difficulties!) I thought I confirmed that I could get just a single serving that I could eat at the one inside table and that it would cost about $4 and take about 18 minutes. He apparently thought I confirmed that I wanted take-out for 4 at about $18.

I waited and waited and my <u>bucket</u> ( =-o ) of chicken didn’t arrive until less than 10 minutes before my bus. They kindly let me eat at the sole not-for-the-public’s-use table, where I gobbled just a few pieces of very tasty chicken bites in a slightly sweet (and very sticky :-( ) almond sauce. Apparently, a cola drink was also included – but I don’t drink colas. And I had no time to take advantage of whatever that side dish was – some kind of tofu salad? When I turned it down, they tried to give me even more cola. I tried to assure them that the food was delicious, but that I didn’t have time.... I don’t like wasting either money or food, but I also don’t like making a fuss when there is a good chance that a mistake was mine, and my bus was about to leave, and I just honestly hope that they found some use for the very tasty, and substantial, serving of chicken that I left behind.

Once I reached Gwangju, I had another wait of almost an hour before my next bus. But all was not lost -- there was a Tourist Information office just outside the bus station. What a perfect opportunity to get the information I wanted for the rest of my time in Gwang-ju! Not. There was a very nice, very knowledgeable woman at that desk who spoke English very well and who was committed to sharing her knowledge with those who came to her – without any apparent regard for the question those tourists might actually have. ;-) I pulled out my printed directions and asked her to write out the English, when it was missing, or Korean, when it was missing. She took out her pen and, saying “yes, yes!” actually CROSSED OUT the Korean words in several places. I don’t think doing so was, in any way, intentional – she was just marking information exhuberantly as she chattered on. I pulled the paper out from under her hands. I turned to the one question I thought most critical: Where, exactly, could I catch the bus FROM Soswaewon BACK to Gwang-ju – across the street from where I get off? She looked startled, and then said, “Yes, yes!”

<b>Soswaewon Garden. </b> Moments later, I boarded my bus. The driver was very careful to ensure that I got off at the right place and that I knew the direction in which I should walk. It was beginning to drizzle, but just enough to add to the evocative, rather mystical, aura of the forested lane that led uphill past the ticket gate. No problem – after all, that’s why I carry a very lightweight rain jacket with me.

I found Soswaewon -- a cluster of small pavillions set in a copse -- absolutely lovely. It was a very pleasant place to linger for few moments (it isn’t large!), and each viewpoint offered a unique and lovely perspective over carefully (if discretely) landscaped scenes.

As the rain increased in intensity, I made my way back to the main roadway – where I could find no sign for a return bus, only the sign where I had arrived. I reached that stop 5 or 10 minutes before the bus was to stop on its way back to Gwangju, and I watched the roadway in both directions. No bus. To improve my lines of sight, I eventually walked around a bend so I could see, not only in either direction, but also a road that formed a T-intersection with the road I was watching. Oh, finally, a bus! The driver looked at my written destination, shook his head, and waved his hand. I must admit that I didn’t understand -- was he signaling "other way" or "that way" or "no" or...?

I watched those roads for nearly 50 minutes. Thankfully, I have a very good rain jacket, and I never felt the need to pull out my mini-umbrella, which I thought would just mean tiring my arm, with little or no addional protection. During that time, at least 4 different cars stopped so someone could offer me an umbrella. Seriously! And in every case, I actually had to pull my umbrella out of my pack to prove I really didn’t need their incredibly kind offer. Awesome!

The rain intensified. And became colder. My back began to feel the day’s efforts. The little irritations of the last day began running through my head, no matter how much I told myself, “Don’t go there!” I began thinking about which direction I should go to get help.

And then, finally – a taxi! I barely had the heart to bargain. I said Gwangju, he said 30,000 won, I said 20,000, he said 27,000 (about $27), and I accepted. I knew it was a pity offer – I’m sure he knew he had me from the moment I flagged him down, and I knew I wasn’t going to protest too much, and thankfully, he did allow me to save a little “face” by lowering his price a bit. I have no idea what it would actually have cost if I had insisted on a meter, but I have reasonable confidence that his fee was not terribly excessive. Throughout my time in Korea, the taxis I had taken cost about $1 per minute, and this driver brought me to Gwangju in just under ½ hour.

<b>Dinner at Yeongmi Oritang. </b> “Oritang” means “duck soup,” and there is an Oritang Street in Gwangju – a short block with several restaurants that serve no other main dishes. (There were streets – or at least a block or two thereof – devoted to a specific regional specialty in several cities I visited.)

Based on my prior research, I had targeted the restaurant “Yeongmi Oritang,” which I easily found. I was glad that there was a wait because that gave me a chance to see how to eat it: In addition to an awesome array of tasty goodies, the server brings a pot of soup, with half a duck (or a whole one, if that's what you order) that is in pieces, along with seasoning, and sets it on a tabletop burner. The server also brings a basket of fresh herbs, which you add to the pot when you want. Everything is served on a table covered by myriad sheets of plastic, so people put the bones right on the table, and when they leave, bussing the table simply means rolling up the plastic. Brilliant!

By the time I was seated, I thought I had figured it out. Nonetheless, the very nice gentleman sitting next to me decided he would help. Apparently, I wasn't eating or cooking fast enough -- he kept putting more and more stuff in my pot and it was running out of polite ways to suggest he could stop helping until I finally said "No," rather loudly, which is a real no-no in Korea. Oops! I was trying to apologize when my pot nearly boiled over, so I turned to adjust the heat. And then, as I tried to lift a piece of duck, I watched it fly, complete with herbs and thick sauce, right onto my thigh. =-o

Did I mention that Korean napkins are smaller and thinner than cocktail napkins? Or that this food was HOT?

Those who know me might realize that I was prepared -- I had, in my purse, a sealed Ziploc bag holding a Handiwipe-wrapped titanium spork. As I was reaching for it as discretely as I could, my server came up behind me and draped a (bright red) apron around me, startling me so that I only avoided knocking over my beer because the woman to my right had great reflexes; the woman to my left started trying to pat me off; and the man took the opportunity to add more herbs to my soup. Chaos! Thankfully, once I started laughing, everyone joined in. It may not have been my most graceful moment, but OMG that was good soup! :-)

By the time I left, it was raining rather hard. I started out, made a turn or two, and then questioned my decisions. I went into a neaby 24/7 to ask directions. The young man ran out onto the street with me, without any protection against the rain, and escorted me a half-block to a place from which he could point me in the correct direction. How nice!

lol....takeout for 4 at $18.....pretty serious miscommunication... ;-)
Personally I think you are doing amazingly well...I wouldn't think of traveling up into the wilds of Korea without much understanding of the language....I am so impressed!
I guess you didn't have a phone app for translation......that might have come in handy - I don't have a smart phone either....but I think I would get one for that sort of trip....
Still loving your report!

I'm so glad you could laugh. I'm sorry to say I was having a very good laugh while reading. I do love duck and that dish is on my gwangju list.

I had several phone apps. I just use an iPod touch which is like an iPhone without the phone bit! You can use it on wifi. Some of these translations are often worse than miming. They are okay for nouns sort of and some very short phrases but many of the translations can be odd indeed.

I'd translate anything back and forth in the apps before I risked using them. I can't repeat some of the results for what I thought quite straight forward things.

I also printed out a few carefully vetted cards for things like taxis and buses which did help. Not that I was on my own all the time on any of my trips My Korea host wouldn't let me go off alone too much. He'd come looking for me if I was gone longer than he thought I should take.

@ Mara -- Thanks for the words of encouragement! To be clear: I didn't mind that the chicken cost $18 -- I minded that it took more than 40 minutes to cook when I had less than 50 minutes to spare! LOL, it seems that I continue to miscommunicate about that order! ;-)

Honestly, I didn't find communication to be that difficult; this was about as "bad" as it got -- and that isn't too bad! It was easier than some parts of China that I visited, and easier (or at least no more difficult) than Russia in 1994 or Poland in 1995.

i didn't carry a phone of any sort. There was a section in the books I had with me (hard copy and Kindle) with some key words and phrases, but I never consulted them. And I had an iPad that I could have used to google things, but I didn't take the iPad with me most days and didn't have any travel apps on it. (Thanks, MaryW, for confirming that translating apps don't provide a guaranteed solution!)

@ MaryW -- yes indeed, a sense of humor is, and always has been, firmly on my "must-take" list for travel! There have been more than a few moments over the years when it seemed the most valuable thing I had with me. :-)

I thought the oritang truly delicious (even in the context of some outstanding meals) and hope you enjoy, too!

I'm relishing your report kja. South Korea is a destination I'm unlikely to get to (so many places, so little time) barring that big lotto win :)

Enjoying the journey through your eyes, and now I want to go to the nearest Asian grocer for a big tub of kimchee !

Please continue....

@ sartoric – Thanks so much for letting me know that you are enjoying my report! I, too, love vicarious travels – there’s something about “seeing” the world without sore feet that can be quite wonderful. :-)


<u>Day 10</u>: <b>Day trip from Gwangju to Songgwangsa</b>

This morning was not the best of my trip. I walked by inexplicably open hotel room doors that provided glimpses of things I honestly had NO interest in seeing (WHY do some people leave their hotel doors open?!?); decided to skip the overpriced breakfast in my hotel, discovered that the nearby coffee shop wouldn’t open for several more hours, had difficulty finding my bus stop, couldn’t figure out how much to pay for the bus ride, and inadvertently upset my driver by holding out a handful of coins to him. (Apparently, bus drivers do NOT touch the money.) Nonetheless, that driver was also very careful to make sure I knew where to get off – the intercity bus station, where I soon bought my ticket for, and boarded, a bus to....

<b>Songgwangsa. </b> Once I got off the bus, an old man made sure that I found my way to the temple by signaling to me, and then signaling to others that they should watch out for me. I passed a long row of restaurants and souvenier shops, and at every step, there was someone watching and waving me on. As I turned onto a wooded lane beside a little stream, I saw the last of those who had waved me on return my greeting, and then she turned to signal to the person before her…. I felt like the bucket in a fire brigade! :-)

A row of widely spaced paper lanterns marked the road to the temple, which soon led me to a lovely pavillion that stradded the stream. I shared greetings with several others who were enjoying this special refuge before continuing my walk up a gently sloped path. And as in Busosan, it seemed that at least one person in every passing group said hello and paused to exchange a few words when I responded. If there was any place I went outside a city – any temple or park or whatever -- where that was not the case, I don’t remember it. If I see it in my notes as I continue writing, I’ll let you know. Otherwise, assume it was part of the welcoming “landscape” I experienced in South Korea.

Songgwangsa is is one of the “Three Jewel Temples of Korea,” representing the Buddhist Community. (I visited the other two “jewels” later in my trip – Tongdosa, representing the Buddha, because of its relics; and Haeinsa, representing Buddhist teachings, because of its woodblocks. All three are working temples with monks in residence.)

The main entryway to Songgwangsa is among the most striking of the temple entrances I saw: A well-proportioned, open-sided pavilion straddles the top of an arched bridge across the stream. On the down-stream side, a channel led to a waterfall. One side was lined by leafy trees, the other by temple buildings. In honor of Buddha’s birthday, the area between the pavillion/bridge and waterfall was covered with a “ceiling” of variously colored lanterns, which were beautifully reflected in the water. :-) The upper side of the stream also separated temple buildings from the woods; here the stream flowed more naturally. The bridge-paviliion itself had some wonderful ornamentation and much-appreciated benches (attached to the walls) on either side. Wonderful! This pavillion led to an impressive gate, where one passes the four temple guardian statues and ascends a set of stairs to emerge in a large, lantern-covered plaza. Wow!

I began to approach temple buildings, but kept noticing that the doors were shut and so moved on, trying – unsuccessfully -- to find either an open building or a sign that indicated hours. There were a few places where clear signage indicated that one was not to enter – this is, after all, a functioning temple, and the monks’ living quarters and certain study halls were off limits. But weren’t there any open buildings?

And then I heard a woman say, “Hello!” and so met Ansu: Korean-born, she lives in California and was at Songgwangsa for a templestay. (South Korea’s templestay program allows people to spend a bit of time at a Buddhist temple. More on templestays elsewhere.) She assured me that the temple buildings were open – all I needed to do was to open one of the doors. OK, I know that sounds pretty simple – but I don’t think I’ve ever gone into a temple building in Japan or China or thus far in South Korea that one could visit that didn’t have a door (or two) already open. But we went together and she tried a door and it opened and we went in. (BTW, I don’t remember buildings at any other temples in South Korea that one could enter that didn’t have an open door, but that doesn’t mean that they aren’t there.)

I found Songgwangsa well worth visiting. In addition to its magnificent entryway, I particularly enjoyed its impressive main hall; a pair of very small, very old shrines; a huge serving “bowl” carved from a tree trunk that could apparently hold enough rice to feed thousands; a steep stairway to a stupa and some stunning views; and the many blooming and wonderfully redolent peonies edging the buildings.

As I often do, before leaving the temple, I checked my guidebooks to determine whether there was anything I missed or that I want to look at again with better-informed eyes. Oh, I had missed a building that is considered particularly special! As I approached the small, open wooden gate that led to a walkway to that hall, I remembered why I hadn’t gone in: There was a sign on the gate, but not in English, and since I hadn’t seen anyone else go through that gate, I had thought that maybe it was closed to the public. But the sign didn’t look at all like any of the other “do not enter” signs (I checked); the building was listed in the brochure I had gotten when I paid my entrance fee; and, from the gate, I could see that there was an information stand below the set of stairs that led to the building … so in I went and climbed the very steep stone stairs to this hall.

The first door I saw – the one facing me – had a padlock. There was a rather narrow ledge between the building and the edge of the wall, so I carefully walked along it, checking the other doors. The first two were locked. As I reached the third door along that wall and stretched my hand to test it, a monk came out. After a stunned few seconds, he said, “No! No!” in Korean. I tried to say, “I’m sorry!” while trying to back up. The monk switched to very clear English: “Please leave. PLEASE leave!” I did my best to turn quickly on that narrow ledge, and nearly lost my balance, while hearing him say, “PLEASE -- LEAVE THIS PLACE! PLEASE leave NOW!,” I did my best to move as fast as I could, even though it was obviously not rapidly enough.

I truly regret that I disturbed this monk and that I had apparently entered forbidden space. I found the experience quite upsetting – particularly because I make a sincere effort to respect limits and norms and cultural nuances. As I left, I again checked the Korean lettering on the sign that was there, and compared it to two other “do not enter” signs – it was not the same set of words. With thoughts like that, I eventually calmed down.

I was still a bit shaken when, on my way back to that lovely open-sided bridge-topping pavillion, a woman stepped out of a little shop just inside the grounds and nearly forced a set of postcards into my hand. I had not encountered that kind of aggressive salesmanship anywhere along my travels in South Korea, and I was still just too distressed at that point to come up with an appropriate response. I looked at the packet, realized it was only about $3, and thought – just buy them, I need some postcards anyways. I started to hand the woman the money. No, no, no -- it was a gift! Wow! (And BTW, I did not encounter aggressive vendors anywhere in South Korea.)

I had a few hours before my return bus, and there were several hermitages scattered in the wooded hills above Songgwangsa, so I consulted a map and selected a path that seemed to fit my time frame. A relatively gentle uphill lane led to a public exercise area where a group of partially robed monks were doing chin-ups and leg lifts and otherwise doing their workouts. I must admit that I had never thought about what monks do to maintain their fitness!

Then the path became steeper. At every section that was particularly steep and every section that would be prone to becoming muddy, the path was defined by cross-sections of log that had been driven into the ground and so provided “steps” – perfect! (And BTW, I was to find these “steps” in similar places throughout South Korea. :-) )

The path led beside a stream that became smaller and smaller. It sometimes splashed over a set of rocks, and sometimes leapt over a little ledge, and always sounded lovely. There were a few blooming things and bamboo sprouting among the trees and birdcalls and insects – including lots of mosquitoes. :-( I was beginning to find the mosquitoes really irritating when I remembered that I had Picaridin with me. (I admit it -- I sometimes forget about things that I carry more-or-less every day, but only rarely need.) I splashed some on and set off again without further irritation.

Unfortunately, I am not the nimble, sure-footed goat that I once was, and I have come close to some dangerous moments while hiking alone in recent years. So, after a pleasnt hour-or-so-long uphill hike, when I came to a point when I needed to climb some slick, moss-covered boulders to move further up the path, I surprised myself by stopping and assessing how I would get back down. I don’t know if it was wisdom or weariness that won the day – all I can say is that I chose to turn back. I slowly said my farewells to Songgwangsa, stopping at both stream-straddling halls as I left.

I think I’ve noted that I found the scenery throughout South Korea quite lovely. My ride back to Gwangju was no exception: Almost immediately, the bus passed a large series of lovely lotus ponds. And then a reservoir, with sunlight glinting off ripples and inlets that disappeared behind the hills that edged it. And then various expanses of farmland, backed by series of dragon-backed ridges that held more shades of blue shading to violet than any Crayola box I’ve ever seen. VERY pretty!

<b>Around Gwangju. </b> It took almost 2 hours to return to the Gwangju bus station. I stopped at an information desk there to get information about a local dinner specialty that had sounded tasty to me -- tteok galbi. Unfortunately, it was a TRANSIT information desk, not a TOURIST information desk. A very kind passerby stopped to help, and with his help, I learned that this specialty is actually from a town about 1’20” away. :-(

I hailed a taxi and asked him to take me to <b>“Art Street,” </b> which one of my guidebooks led me to believe would be a lively stretch of art galleries and public art. Not when I was there! A few galleries were open; most of them were nearly deserted. There was some public art, but less than I saw in many other streets in South Korea. And “lively” was not an adjective that I would apply to the area – I saw just a handful of other people in the two blocks I walked.

As I walked back to my hotel, I came across a bonus: another traditional market! Some of the vendors had already closed up for the day, but there was still an enjoyable array of fishmongers and grocers and purveyors of socks and herbs. Many of the vendors who were still there were in the back of their shops, watching TV.

<b>Geumsoojang Tourist Hotel Restaurant. </b> I finally went to my hotel, where I hoped to experience “royal” cuisine. I freshened up and went to the restaurant and was seated in a pleasant private room – and then realized that they serve “royal” cuisine only for two or more. :-( So instead, I ordered grilled beef with vegetables. It was very tasty and was accompanied (of course) by a vast array of banchan. This meal may not have been the very best of my trip, but it was definitely quite good; it may not have been the least expensive, but it wasn’t outrageous (about $28, including a large beer). OK!

<u>Day 11</u>: <b>Gwangju and day-trip to Boseong & Yulpo</b>

Once again, my morning didn’t begin very well. I found the bus stop I needed rather easily, but the bus was VERY crowded and the bus driver didn’t have time to look at my printed destination. A nice young man who was on the bus offered to help: He looked up my destination (the Gwangju Folk Museum) on his smartphone and signalled to me that I should get off with him at a particular intersection. He then walked with me for a block or two, pointed in the direction I was to go, and headed off. But I was pretty sure something was mistaken, because I expected a bus stop right in front of the museum. So I walked until I was sure the young man could no longer see me and then hailed a taxi. I showed the driver my written destination, and he said he knew it. And then a rare experience: He drove SLOWLY, looking along every corner…. Did he really know? And then, there it was!

<b>Gwangju Folk Museum. </b> I thought the Gwangju Folk Museum very interesting and well laid out, and it had good English signage. In addition to displays of artifacts, it makes extensive – and I thought effective -- use of dioramas. It focused on regional traditions, and so didn’t provide the range of coverage that the Korean Folk Village did, but it covered THIS region in some depth. I enjoyed it and spent about 1.5 hours there.

One of my guidebooks mentioned a shortcut from the Folk Museum to the National Museum and it worked. :-) As you leave the Folk Museum, turn to your right. There is a small roadway to the side of the museum (so another right, if coming from the museum), which leads to an underpass. Go through the underpass, walk through the parking lot, stay to the left, then cross the road. There you are!

<b>Gwangju National Museum. </b> The Gwangju National Museum is another large, relatively new facility showing a small array of objects spanning the history of the region. I thought the entry way was pleasant: It held a path along a man-made curving water channel with occasional pools, some of which held lotus that were just coming into bloom, that allowed an alternative to the low flights of stairs to either side.

IMO, this museum held some wonderful pieces, but it didn’t have any Korean pieces with the same WOW factor that at least some pieces had for me in each of the other national museums that I visited. One unique, and very impressive, display held items that had been recovered from a 14th century Chinese ship that sank in the area, including some very special examples of Chinese celadon. (MaryW, you will love this exhibit!)

<b>Travel to Boseong & Yolpo. </b> There was a bus stop right in front of the museum, where I caught a city bus to the main intercity bus station. Traffic was heavy, so the ride took more than ½ hour, not the 15” I had expected. But no problem – I had plenty of time before my bus. Once that bus was boarding, I showed the bus driver that I wanted to go to Boseong; he tried to tell me something that I couldn’t understand. He signalled for me to stay put, then left the bus, and then came back with a small piece of paper showing the times of the return buses from Boseong. How nice!

In Boseong, I changed to a local bus. Once on board, a friendly Korean woman – Hueng -- came to chat with me. She recommended that I go beyond Boseong to Yulpo to see the ocean, and she said that the bus would go there and then return, so it would be easy. She offered to ask the bus driver if he would let me do that, and she did – despite my protests that I would be happy to pay the extra fare. The bus driver not only said yes, he said that she should come along. :-)

So, off to Yulpo we went! It was a lovely bus ride that didn’t take very long, but offered enticing views over tea plantations and fingers of the sea intertwined with ridges of land and a vast tidal flat where people were digging for clams....

Because it is the end of the bus line, and the place where the driver takes a 10- or 15-minute break, Hueng and I had a few moments to walk around just a bit and look out over the beach and the sea. When we returned to the bus, the driver spoke again to Hueng and pointed to a tree: He was from Yulpo, and he wanted her to show me that tree – it was the village tree and he said it was 820 years old. In the past, the entrance to every Korean village was “protected” by a tree and this tree was regarded with the reverence accorded an animistic entity. I had read about such trees at the Korean Folk Village, so I was delighted when Hueng translated, and they were both pleased that I knew what they meant. What a special treat!

We then reboarded the bus. Hueng got off just before my stop; the bus driver pointed me in the right direction at Boseong and waved as I walked away.

<b>Boseong’s Daehan Dawon (a tea plantation).</b> A quick walk through a lovely shaded area brought me to the ticket gate of the Daehan Dawon, a tea plantation.

After passing a pleasant fountain by a café and a shop or two, I came to the main part of the plantation that is accessible to tourists: A slope covered in tea bushes – a large, very steep, and very sunny slope. Probably NOT best seen on a REALLY hot day ... but there I was and I wasn't about to turn back! It was lovely, with the meticulously groomed tea bushes forming vuluptuously-curved bands that wound, in parallel, across the undulating slope. I had to stop more than once to catch my breath as I made my way up that hillside, and when I reached the last flight of stairs, and saw that it had a thick rope rather than a handrail (so one can get a good grip and pull oneself up), I knew I was in for trouble! Thankfully, that stretch was rather short, and the views from the top were impressive. (Thanks, SeeHag, for letting me know when I was planning my trip that you had enjoyed your day here!) I will say, though, that this hill was better suited to those much younger and fitter than I. (I came back from this trip a little older, and much fitter, than when I started, so I guess I shouldn't complain! ;-) )

The descent, on the other side of the hill, was through a pleasantly shaded wooded area near – and in one part, quite literally through -- a stream.

The scenery on the way back to Gwangju was (again) very pleasant. There was one long-ish stretch were a shallow, sluggish stream meandered between very lush green banks; elsewhere, a small lake that seemed to be a mirror reflecting the sun and clouds, and (of course) ridges disappearing behind each other in the distance.

<b>Geumsoojang Tourist Hotel Restaurant, 2nd dinner. </b> Gwangju is known for its food, and I was looking forward to experimenting with another restaurant, but I realized – once at my hotel to freshen up – that I simply did not have the energy to go out again when a decent option existed “in house.” So I once again ate in the hotel’s restaurant.

This evening, I ordered fried shrimp, which were not unlike shrimp tempura, but with a sauce that was just a tad sweeter and decidely lighter than I normally encounter with tempura. The array of banchan included some of the ones I had liked best on the previous evening, and a large number of others that were at least as good, if not better. Very tasty! With a large beer, it came to less than $25.

I'll definitely check the museum. I've been to the Maritime museum in Mokpo that has a great collection of Chinese and goryeo from wrecks. The biennale is on when I'm planning on going so those museums as well will be a good days worth all in the same complex.

A question re bus fares. I've only got on at terminals so far so have paid at the booth. What and how do you pay if you get on part way on the route? Do you put the money in a tray or what? I understand the card system where its available and you swipe it but not the actual cash bit!

I liked boseong too but it was so hot - 2 August trips. Not a time I'd particularly choose to go really.

kja, I am glad you enjoyed the tea plantation. I think when we visited there were the steep stairs up to the top and then another path that may not have gone all the way to the top hill but it was much less challenging! That was the path I took!

Since you did such thorough research for your trip and visited the history museum I am wondering if you heard of the Gwangju massacre? When my son lived in Gwangju he worked at an English-language radio station and he did a segment about it on the anniversary of the tragedy. Does the museum cover modern history? Sorry to hijack!

Still reading, still impressed. I think the reason you may not be seeing more artifacts in the museums is because so much was destroyed during assorted wars and invasions.

You seem to be getting by on fewer meals than I could! I noticed elsewhere in Asia that meals are not really designed for solo travelers. Like mezes in Greece and the Middle East.

I am impressed than any of you are still reading this tome! Many thanks for your interest and encouragement!

@ MaryW – The Gwangju National Museum also has some wonderful Korean ceramics, so I’m sure you will see some special things there.

Paying city bus fares with cash is actually quite simple: There is a fare box to the driver’s right; you put money (coin or bills) in the top, which is see-through; the driver then operates a change box to give you any change you are due. As I recall, fares for city buses ranged from about 100 won to about 150 won – so reasonable! In some places – and Gwangju may have been one of them, I don’t remember – there is a “flat” fare for any ride; in other places, the fare depended on the distance. It was really quite easy. I don’t remember why I tried giving the money to the bus driver that day – generally, if I didn’t see a sign, I just put in what I was pretty sure was enough and then waited for change. BTW, when using a card to pay, don’t forget to swipe it both when you enter AND exit.

I can’t imagine trying to climb even the lower part of Boseong in August! =-o You are brave, MaryW!

@ SeeHag – there was a lovely observation deck part way up the hill of the tea plantation; I stopped there on my way down. Had I only known when I started up…!

I had, indeed, heard of the Gwangju massacre, aka the Gwangju uprising, and had planned to visit the May 18 National Cemetery, which honors that event with a burial ground, monuments, and a hall in which one can learn more about it. As it turns out, I decided that I didn’t have sufficient time to go there. I believe there is also a memorial at the site of the uprising – May 18 Democracy Square.

None of the National Museums of Korea that I visited, including the one in Gwangju, covered history except to provide context for the objects on display.

(And BTW, I don’t consider your remarks “hijacking” – I am pleased that you are sufficiently interested to pose questions. :-) )

@ thursdaysd -- Your hypothesis about the reason that museums showed relatively few items has great merit. For example, the audio-guide for the National Palace Museum in Seoul specifically mentioned that some of the items on display (e.g., royal garb) were the only ones to have survived. But I wonder if it might be more than that? By way of contrast, archeological museums in southern Italy are often full of partially reconstructed vases or bowls, even though they also show the best preserved items. The quality of the artifacts on display in the National Museums was generally so high that I came away with the impression that there was a curatorial decision at play. But I could easily be wrong!

I am not an eater of lunch, even in my life outside travel, so you have observed correctly that I generally only ate breakfast (which I skipped a few days :-( ) and dinner. With the exception of a few local specialties that were served for 2 or more (e.g., those made from a whole chicken), I didn’t find it difficult to order for one. And while the servings were certainly generous – even if one didn’t count the banchan -- I didn't find myself with a platter designed for a family, as I sometimes did in China. Unlike tapas or mezes, the banchan came without ordering them and without extra charge. So tasty! :-)

I'm still reading too. Waiting until you get to the bits I've been to then I can make some kind of intelligent comment :)

Thanks for the bus fare info. It's so much nicer to know how it works.

Boseong in August. I took the leisurely path which was still a challenge in the heat. My husband took your way. He is a bit of a mountain goat Second visit I was on my own -well husband left at home and me with a mob of other potters. I only went part way and found a lovely cool spot to rest, admire the landscape and people watch. That was nice.

@ gertie – thanks for letting me know that you, too, are traveling with me! For a solo traveler, I sure seem to have a lot of companions – and delightful ones at that. :-)

@ MaryW – Glad to be of assistance! Sometimes, it really is the little things that contribute to the stress of a journey. (That, and climbing really steep hills in the heat when one is no longer a mountain goat. Kudos to your husband. Kudos to your wisdom. :-) )

@ Mara, whitecloudorillia, and SeeHag: Heads up: Sections on Jeju are about to begin!


<u>Day 12</u>: <b>Move on to Jeju-Do</b>

<b>Transit to Jeju-Do (Jeju Island). </b> Despite the horrible and tragic sinking of a Korean ferry to Jeju on April 16 of this year, my plan was to take a ferry from Mokpo to Jeju-Do. The ferry I planned to take was run by a different company; it left from Mokpo, not Incheon; it was a passenger-only ferry, unlike the car ferry that sank; and with so much attention on human errors that may have contributed to the sinking, I believed that everyone with any degree of responsibility would be bending over backwards to be as safe as possible. There was an argument to be made that ferries in South Korea had never been safer. Still, I will admit that I was a bit unsettled, and I checked the internet several times in the days and hours leading up to my anticipated departure to see if any further news about possible causes had emerged.

Despite this mild trepadition, I was looking forward to the experience: I have had some very pleasant ferry rides over the years, and this one was (I believe) to take me through parts of Dadohaehaesang National Park, a maritime park that I believe includes some spectacular scenery. I had actually spent a considerable amount of my time while planning this trip identifying my ferry options, and had originally hoped to not only go to Jeju-Do by ferry, but to also go by ferry from Jeju-Do to Busan using a route that would take me through other islands. In the end, I concluded that leaving Jeju-Do by ferry would not meet my needs, and so I had booked a flight for that leg.

My original plan was to spend just a little more time exploring Gwangju that morning (specifically, SeeHag, to see the May 18 Cemetery), but I slept in a little longer than I had planned and I didn’t yet have a ticket for that ferry and so wanted to be sure to reach Mokpo as early as I could. I paid for a 2nd overpriced breakfast in my hotel and then quickly checked out. It didn’t take long to hail a taxi to the train station.

It did take a while to figure out what to do, because once at the train station, I was told that they had no trains to Mokpo. ??? Maybe I could take a bus? Wow, I thought, I was sure my information indicated a train station – I could even see the letters, “KTX” (the name of the high-speek train in South Korea) in the Korean name! But if there’s no train, there’s no train. Thank goodness I had plenty of time!

I caught another taxi to the intercity bus terminal, where I was able to buy a ticket for a bus that would leave fairly soon. It was raining by then, and the trip was uneventful. The bus took longer than I expected, and I remained quite confused by how discrepant the information I had obtained in advance was from my experience on the ground – most of my advance plans had proven remarkably accurate! But my route planning info didn't have the English names for all the stops (something I had relied on hotel staff to translate in other locations), so I could only assume that something had been very much in error.

Once in Mokpo, I hailed a taxi and showed him the name for the ferry port. Off we went! While on our way, he asked a few questions, but his English was limited (although better than my Korean!), and I didn’t understand. He finally stopped the taxi at a corner and pointed ahead. Ah, I thought, there’s the ferry terminal; why did he stop? Surely he doesn’t want me to walk a block or two in the rain?!? And then he pointed right – uh oh, another terminal! We established that I was going to Jeju-Do. He communicated that the port I had named is not the one used for Jeju-Do. I figured he probably knew, but if not, I still had about 3 hours to walk those few blocks. On to the port of his choosing!

I entered a huge, empty space. Well, not EMPTY empty – just devoid of life. I saw a ticket counter and moved to it; there was a sign that I think said that the counter would open again at 1 p.m. It was just after 11 a.m.; the ferry I hoped to take was to leave at 2 p.m. I sat down and turned on my Kindle.

Not long afterwards, I heard footsteps and turned to see a young woman approaching the counter. She read the sign, and as she turned to leave, I asked if she spoke English? A little…. Is the the station for ferries to Jeju-Do? Yes. (The taxi driver was right, of course.) Does that sign say…? Yes, but it also says that you can go upstairs – oh! but the escalator is broken and you have luggage and do, please, let me run up for you! Which she did -- how nice! She soon returned to tell me that the ticket counter would re-open at 1 p.m. and I shouldn’t have any problem buying a ticket at that time. :-)

There was free wifi, so I sent some messages, and I read.

At about 11:45, a man came up to me and asked if I was waiting for the ferry to Jeju-Do? Yes! It had been cancelled due to the weather. I thanked him for letting me know and asked if there was any other way to get to Jeju-Do that day. There was! Following his directions, I:
• Left the terminal. No taxis in sight. Walked a couple of blocks, came to a main street, hailed a taxi to Mokpo’s train station, which is on the KTX (high speed) line.
• Almost immediately boarded a high-speed train to Gwangju’s KTX station. What? Gwangju had a KTX station? No wonder all my plans for the morning had been so at variance with my expectations! I had gone to its “regular” train station; the KTX station is some distance out of town.
• Took a taxi ride of about 10 minutes from Gwangju’s KTX station to Gwangju’s airport, reaching it by about 1 p.m.
• Went to the Korean Air counter and asked for a ticket on the next flight. Passport, please. OMG! It never occurred to me that I would need a passport that day, so it was in a security pouch underneath my clothes in a place that could be reached in public. I offered her a copy. No. I asked where the WC was, and she pointed across the lobby. And then, as I started moving toward it, she said, “Please hurry. The flight is in less than 15 minutes.” =-o LOL! I’ve always wondered who, in their right mind, would EVER show up at an airport and think they could jump on a plane leaving less than an hour or two from when they got there. A train maybe, a bus maybe, even maybe a passenger ferry, but a plane?!?
• Reminded myself that the worse that would happen would be taking a later flight -- no great hardship, since I hadn't even known there would be one at that hour!
• Reached the WC and retrieved my passport.
• Returned to the counter, bought my ticket, and checked my suitcase.
• Turned to go to the boarding gate. Stopped to figure out where I was going. My ticket agent came to steer me there, every step of the way to the security gates, smiling graciously, despite the worry line on her brow.
• Went through various passport checks and security and got wanded (very politely), too.
• And with a last ticket check, I was welcomed on board. I actually had time to reach my seat and strap in before I heard the announcement to do so -- I had AT LEAST two minutes to spare!!! What a The Amazing Race moment! Except that I wasn’t in a race and taking the next flight would have been fine…. LOL, that was an unexpected adventure!

So, to recap, I spent about 3 hours getting from Gwangju to Mokpo so that I could take a ferry to Jeju-Do. It took a bit under 1.5 hours to get from Mokpo to Gwangju and board a flight for Jeju-Do. The flight left ¾ hour before the ferry I had planned to take would have departed. I arrived in Jeju-Do nearly 3 hours before the ferry would have arrived. Life is strange.

There was cloud cover for almost the entire way, so I didn’t get to see the maritime park that I had hoped to see, from sky or sea. Next time!

Because I was SO early, I went straight to the TI desk and asked a very nice woman there to call my B&B – it’s a very small place, and I wasn’t sure anyone would be there if I arrived at such an unexpectedly early time. I got a map, some answers to a few questions, and soon boarded the airport bus. And because I was SO much earlier than I expected, I reviewed my plans for my time for the island to see if there is anything that I had decided to skip that I might be able to squeeze in.

The bus took something over an hour to reach my stop, and was a bit less scenic than I had hoped – but it got me there, and it did so with announcements in several languages, including English. My inn, the Tae Gong Gak, was in the city of Seogwipo and was just steps from the bus stop.

<b>Tae Gong Gak, Seogwipo. </b> Here’s my TA review:

“I spent 3 nights in a Western double for single use at the Tae Gong Gak Inn and Guesthouse and found it delightful! 



"The owner – Sylvia – and her staff could not have been more helpful, either before my trip (by responding promptly and clearly to quite a few e-mails) or during my visit. Sylvia seems genuinely committed to helping her guests enjoy their time in Jeju and she uses her knowledge of the island, and the information she gains through talking to her guests, to provide individually tailored suggestions. She and her staff have photographed key points along the route that visitors are likely to take to get to any number of destinations, and they have posted those photographs on a computer at the desk, so when someone is planning to visit X, they can walk them through the photos, pointing out key things to watch for along the route. In all my travels, I’ve never known a hotel to do that, and it was very helpful -- kudos!



“Guests prepare there own breakfasts in a well-stocked kitchen (no need to purchase anything unless you want to), and OMG, I enjoyed these breakfasts! Bagels and cream cheese; eggs the way I like them; coffee brewed to the strength I prefer and with the option of adding milk; yogurt; a variety of fresh fruits…. 



“My room was spotless, very comfortable, and nicely appointed – it even included pillows in two different sizes. It was just steps from the bus stops for the airport and Jungman Resort and an easy walk to the stop for most (all?) other buses that serve Seogwipo, it was close to several very tasty restaurants (which Sylvia was happy to recommend), and it provided easy access by foot to the harbor and its sites. The guesthouse also has a back yard (most of the fruit trees were, unfortunately, removed recently), a seating area outside the front office, and a roof deck offering a pleasant view over the harbor. Nice!



“If I ever return to Jeju-do, I would happily stay at the Tae Gong Gak again.”

Upon checking in, Sylvia assured me that I did not have time to see any of the places I had flagged while on the bus. I wasn’t surprised, because I knew they were all some distance from Seogwipo. But, she told me, I had reached town on one of the days of its traditional “5-day” markets: As I had learned during my time in South Korea, markets were traditionally held every 5 days. Although many cities – including Seogwipo – have traditional markets that are open daily, this would be a much larger market with a much wider and more extensive array of options. I was game! Sylvia called a taxi and off I went.

<b>Seogwipo Five-Day Market. </b> What a great market! Large, filled with interesting (and, of course, oddly juxtaposed) stuff, lots of bright colors (Jeju-Do is known for its tangerines), and vendors who almost always made me feel welcome to take pictures of their wares.

I think I’ve mentioned that I don’t like to shop – I like to take pictures of markets, which is quite a different thing. I do plan some shopping on each trip I take – I buy gifts for friends and families and (lesson learned long ago) I ONLY do that toward the end of my trip – no need to trek things around for weeks! So I was very surprised that, while taking a picture of some tangerines, a handmade silk shawl caught me eye. Definitely a winner! I even considered buying several, but that would have meant finding a WC to reach my money pouch, and the market was about to close…. To this day, I think I should have gotten at least two more, but I did get one, and sorry, dear friends and family – this one’s for me!

<b>Seafood Restaurant. </b> Oh no, I can’t find the name! Sylvia recommended this restaurant, which was only about a half-block from Tae Gong Gak going downhill and on one’s left. I ordered the “special” abalone stew, and OMG, who knew that I would like, let alone love, abalone! The stew had abalone and mussels and a huge shrimp-like thing and various other shellfish and herbs and WOW that was REALLY good. :-) Add in a jaw-dropping assortment of banchan and a large beer and count me among the happy!

<b>Seogwipo Harbor and Bird Island. </b> Back at Tae Gong Gak, the evening staff suggested that I might like to take a walk, since it was still early. That’s when I first saw the hotel’s series of photos showing what one will see at key points – cool!

I walked to the harbor from the B&B using a paved footpath that is quite a short-cut in comparison to the roads; walked along the harbor filled with boats bobbing in that delicate, soft light that sometimes precedes a sunset; and crossed the Seogwipo Harbor Bridge as twilight took over and the bridge lights – a sequence of colors outlining the “sail” that forms its central and highest point – came on. Wow!

Bird Island is a very small nature reserve on the far side of the Seogwipo Bridge, with walkways that were often wooden boardwalks to protect the island (from people) and people (from falling when slippery). This little islet was not on my list of priorities, but I was really glad that it had been recommended: There were some very pleasant views out over the sea and to just a few distant shores where lights were coming on; there was a stretch where I could appreciate (or not) the activity of the main port of the island, with its derricks and bright lights and barges; and there were stretches where it was just me walking through a darkening wood with some glimpses of flowers and a few bird calls and reflections of lights off the water behind the trees…. Not a bad way to spend an hour!

By the time I completed my circuit of this islet, the sun had set and the lighting of the Harbor Bridge took center stage. After some admiring gazes, I turned away and retraced my steps through the harbor area to…

<b>Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls. </b> The Cheonjiyeon Falls of Seogwipo (not to be confused with the Cheonjeyeon Falls – note that the letter J is followed by I in one and by E in the other) is in a small park below my B&B and to the side of the harbor. I bought my entry ticket and then followed a lighted path along a quiet stream to the falls. VERY nice! I readily admit that I have a thing for waterfalls. These were by NO means the tallest I’ve seen, or the broadest, or most powerful, or most dramatic, or most beautiful, or most … anything. But they were pleasant and nicely lit for post-sunset viewing and I can think of I lot worse ways to spend a bit of time. :-)

I climbed back up the hill to my inn, spent a brief moment or two on its roof deck for another glimpse of the still-lit Harbor Bridge – and then went to sleep.

kja, just found this. Some of the places you mentioned and some of the ones I went to. Some lovely pictures, you will enjoy them.
http://www.theguardian.com/cities/ga...ds-in-pictures

And I have to say your account of getting to Jejudo brought back memories of the early 80s. This was during the military dictatorship. We were living in Kojedo for about 6 months then and every day there were challenges like you describe getting from A to B!! I had thought things had improved a lot by now, but I have only been to Seoul recently so it looks like there are still challenges outside the big cities.
I have heard that Kojedo is now connected by bridge to the mainland, has 6 lane highways and highrise buildings. In those days there were no paved roads, little wooden shacks, and I did my shopping by negotiating with local ladies who were selling their home-grown produce by the side of the road!

I am enjoying this leg of the journey! Lol at the round about way to Jeju! I am spoiled having my own trip planner who speaks Korean! Your description of the first dinner has my mouth watering. We all love seafood and are looking forward to sampling Jeju' s fresh bounty!

Jeju-do sounds so interesting as does every other place you have visited. I finally looked at a South Korea map so have some idea of what you are talking about. ;-)

I know you did a huge amount of research so I am curious why there was confusion a couple of times with different bus and train stations....was the info you used not specific enough - or just not available in English?

The people seem incredibly helpful!

@ gertie – Wow, what wonderful pictures -- thanks so much for sharing them!

I can’t imagine what it would have been like to live in Kojedo under the conditions you describe – you must have had more than your share of “interesting” moments! I’m curious about why you were there, if you choose to say.

BTW, the challenges I experienced in moving from A to B were largely of my own making – the transportation system in South Korea is really quite good.


@ SeeHag – Rest assured, you have some tasty meals in your future!


@ Mara -- LOL, since I got pretty much everywhere I wanted to go, I had forgotten how many missteps there were along the way! I guess communication wasn’t all that smooth after all. ;-)

I think there were several different things that contributed to confusion about stations and stops: In a few instances, I simply had incorrect information (e.g., the identity of the port for the ferry I planned to take). With city buses, I didn’t always know the bus numbers in advance, and even if I did, I didn't always know which side of the street I needed to be on. Too, most buses I rode seemed to follow a route and then follow it in reverse, so that stops for the two directions were roughly across from each other, but I think not all routes were that way. So, for example, I now suspect that the clockwise and counterclockwise routes on Jeju-Do have slightly different stops, and my best guess about Soswaewon was that that bus traveled a circular route. A number of difficulties were because of how I went about planning: I had roughed out an itinerary using the sketchy info in guidebooks (e.g., the bus runs frequently and takes about ½ hour, or 6 trains a day ranging from 40 to 70 minutes). I then turned to Google Maps, where I was able to get much more detailed information, but nothing other than my start and end point were in English, so I often didn’t know whether I would be changing buses at a bus stop or a bus station. I was in the process of trying to track that down when I ran out of time. :-( In most places, I spent some time at my hotel or a TI office to confirm or clarify my plans, but that didn’t always happen. Too, when Google Maps identified multiple routes, I chose the one that I thought would be best given the time I would likely be on my way, and that meant that if I got “off schedule,” I might end up taking a different route than the one I had planned. So, for example, when I planned a route from Gwangju to Mokpo, I actually planned to go from the May 18 Cemetery (which I ended up skipping) to the port I thought I needed, and everything in between was written only in Korean. I could see that I would be taking a train, and could see the letters “KTX” in the Korean name, but I didn’t realize that Gwangju had two train stations. When I got in the taxi, the driver asked something; I probably inadvertently said to go to the main train station.

Fortunately, I never assume that my advance planning is completely correct (even when I have time to finish it!) and I always try to keep in mind that there will be adventures along the way. And when people are as incredibly helpful as South Koreans, it’s easy to get back on track and to remember the kindness rather than the confusion! :-)

Wow, that was definitely a Plan B day! Congratulations on staying calm.

@ thursdaysd -- always good to have a back-up plan or two! :-) And as I'm sure you know, there is no use in "squandering" worry on things that are completely out of one's control -- those are the moments when one just has to sit back and see what happens. There are likely to be plenty of times when one can worry with much greater reason. ;-)


<u>Day 13</u>: <b>Eastern Jeju-Do</b>

I’ve already described the WONDERFUL breakfast at the Tae Gong Gak, so I’ll move on. My plan for the day was to visit, in order, the Jeju Folk Village, the Manjang-gul Lava Caves, and then Seongsan Ilchulbang. I had a lot of information in advance about how to make that plan work, but I didn’t know where, exactly, I could get the various buses that would be required. So I asked Sylvia.

I hope I have been very clear in extending my sincere commendations to Sylvia for her attention to the individual interests of her guests. But this was not the moment that put her in her best light. She sincerely believed that it would be too tiring for me to visit these three places in one day, and she apparently didn’t hear me say that I preferred to visit Seongsan Ilchulbang close to sunset. (I REALLY didn’t want to try to climb Seongsan Ilchulbang during the heat and sun of the middle of the day!) Too, I think she worried that I wouldn’t make all the necessary connections among various buses. So she strongly discouraged me from trying to see the Jeju Folk Village that day, instead suggesting that I go to the Manjang-gul caves and then Seongsan Ilchulbang. I listened, and I thought about it, and I decided that if I did run out of time, well, OK – I still had time to adjust my priorities for my remaining time on Jeju-Do. I decided to ignore Sylvia’s clearly well-intentioned advice and pursue my original plan, and if that decision backfired, sobeit!

I followed her directions and photos to the bus stop in Seogwipo. Along the way, a very nice old man decided to help. He kept chattering to me and gesturing at this or that, even though I kept trying to tell him that I didn’t speak Korean and didn’t understand what he was saying. He wasn’t going to let that stand in the way! :-)

The Seogwipo bus station – as Sylvia had told me – is just a very small office where one can buy tickets and a series of benches, perhaps three, beside an area where buses can pull off the main street. I bought my ticket for the Jeju Folk Village with minutes to spare. The driver, like so many others, made sure I got off at the right place and pointed me in the right direction.

Before reaching my destination, I came to a corner of a beach – Pyoseon? – that looked quite pleasant. I cut across one tiny corner and admired it briefly before returning to the road. I think it was about a kilometer to the…

<b>Jeju Folk Village. </b> I bought my ticket, got a map and an English audio guide, and began my exploration of this lovely outdoor museum. Like the Korean Folk Village outside of Seoul, this is a space that shows buildings that date from various ages and places; unlike the KFV, it is about Jeju-Do only. So there was much that was familiar to me, but there were also things that I hadn’t seen, or hadn’t fully appreciated, during my visit to the KFV.

I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to this museum, with its buildings and gardens and artifacts and flowers and it was a LOVELY day to be outside and there were craftsmen displaying their arts and children running about and honestly, I find much to appreciate in outdoor museums! There was a group of three people – a young woman, and older woman in a wheel chair, and an older man – with whom I kept crossing paths. At one point, they stopped and insisted on giving me a locally grown orange -- how kind!

There is a “government complex” near the end of the route through this museum, and as I consulted my map while I was leaving it, I realized that I had NOT learned my lesson from Buyeo: I tripped on the centered metal piece that blocks gate doors from opening the wrong way – that little loop in the center -- and I fell flat and hard. :-( Ouch, ouch, OUCH! But OMG, I was, once again, extraordinarly lucky – I gained some bruises, but nothing worse. And I actually kept my face above ground, except for just the tiniest bit of the tip of my nose. What may be the worst part – and I haven’t confirmed this possibility – is that I may have damaged the lens to my camera. (I still have’t uploaded my pictures!) Ever since that moment, the screen that supposedly shows what the camera sees shows a blurred spot in one corner. Argh. I’ve reminded myself that I take a LOT of pictures and iPhoto gives me good cropping options ... and bottom line – what really matters is what I already have in my head. I didn’t even own a camera for my first few trips abroad!

I thought a “drum performance” was to start at 1:30 just outside the “government complex,” but by 1:25, there was NO sign of life and I wanted to find a place where I could splash some water on my face and nose and wash some detritus off my hands, so I headed to the nearest WC. And as the water splashed, I heard the first drum beats. :-)

I headed back, and OMG, I’m so glad I did, because this group of four performers was awesome! This was not a group of re-enactors who can be appreciated for their efforts; this was a group of accomplished and stylish musicians who were obviously accustomed to working with each other and who clearly love making music and who do it WELL! This was one of my favorites of the many performances I saw in South Korea. It was also the least well attended – there was only one other person who stayed throughout the performance; as many as a dozen people stopped for 5 or 10 minutes each. I so hope these musicians know that their work is appreciated!

<b>Transit to Mangjang-gul.</b> After I returned to the area near the bus stop, I stopped in a shop to buy a bottle of water, but the owner refused to sell it to me: She insisted on filling my empty bottle with fresh, cold water. OMG, how sweet!

The bus ride to Mangjang-gul seemed like a long one – I think it was over an hour, but I could easily be mistaken. I found the views interesting, but not particularly scenic -- except for glimpses of Seongsan Ilchulbang. I was very glad to see that the bus stopped very close – just a block or two – from its entrance. Good to know for my return!

The bus driver made sure I knew where to get off – an intersection where an access road leads to the caves, about 2 or 2.5 kilometers inland. I started walking, and almost immediately, a bus turned onto that street. The driver stopped for me, even though I wasn’t at a bus stop. How nice! That bus went straight to the entrance to the cave.

<b>Manjang-Gul Lava Cave. </b> What a wierdly fascinating place! I had never heard of lava tubes until I began researching this trip, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’ve seen some awesome caves over the years – ones known for their stalactites and stalagmites, or their cathedral-like chambers, or their prehistoric paintings…. I hadn’t visited any known for the striations of their black walls. ;-) But the cave had much more than that – various formations that I hadn’t known existed and that were well signed and IMO worth seeing.

I wanted to get back to the bus route along the coastal road, and wasn’t sure how often the bus that goes to the cave runs, so I began walking, and then I saw a taxi. I showed him the Korean name of the bus stop; he said 4,000 won, I said meter (and pointed to it), he thought about it a moment and then said OK. It came to 3,100 won. He took only 3,000 won, declining the 100 won coin with a gracious smile. :-)

I had only a short wait until the bus arrived. The driver made sure I got off at the stop for Seongsan Ilchulbang – but it wasn’t the stop I expected. Instead, I was some distance away; I’m not sure exactly how far. The good news: I was just beside a beach (I think it was called Gawalji) where my earlier bus had stopped, and which I had noted because it looked like it offered an excellent view of Seongsan Ilchulban in the distance with water in front of it. And it did – bonus! And there was a bus stop right there….

<b>Seongsan Ilchulban. </b> Seongsan Ilchulban is a volcanic cone and crater connected to Jeju-Do by a small isthmus. It’s edges rise from the sea in nearly vertical lines, now softened by a hundred thousand years of erosive forces. One cannot enter the crater, which, because of the particular conditions of this crater’s volcanic activity, includes neither lava nor scoria, but instead lush greenery and some rare (and protected) biota. But you can climb to the crater’s edge, using a path and then stairs.

As I’ve already said, I’m not a mountain goat. I climbed and paused and climbed and gasped and eventually reached the top. There were views over the crater and the interesting rock formations that edged it; and views out over the sea to either side; and -- as I had hoped -- the sun was just beginning to set over Hallasan and it was, indeed, a lovely sight to behold! :-) Too, I was able to enjoy the ever changing images that the setting sun created while I descended from the crater’s edge. (There is a well marked ascending route and a well marked descending route.) Near the base, I enjoyed seeing a few horses grazing in a pasture and a young cat tilting its head this way and that as it watched a 4” long red-legged centipede cross the path.

A separate path led to a cove where one can (I believe) see a demonstration by women who carry on the tradition of diving for abalone if one is there at the right time of day. It was WAY too late for that, but I walked far enough to appreciate the views over the cove.

I must again comment on some of the people I encountered: While awaiting the bus at the beach, a gentleman stopped to offer me a ride and insisted on giving me some very fresh tomatoes. As I approached Seongsan Ilchulban, a young woman called out to me to say that she had seen me at the folk village earlier that day and ask if I had enjoyed it. Near the top of the crater, a young couple stopped to say hello and let me know I was almost there, and later, when I reached the top, offered to yield their viewing spot to me (I declined). After I left the crater, a young man who was working at a coffee shop not only used his smartphone to get information on buses back to Seogwipo, he also walked me through several intersections until he could point to the bus stop. At that bus stop, which serves buses that are going both clockwise and counterclockwise around the island, several people made sure I knew to NOT board the first bus that arrived and directed my attention to a sign that had the information I needed. Such welcoming helpfulness!

I had a wait of about 40 minutes before my bus. There was a 24/7 shop across the street, so I bought a few things and found a spot nearby where I could sit and enjoy a “picnic” dinner that included the delicious orange and tomatoes that I had been given earlier in the day. The bus came as scheduled, and I settled in for a long (about 1’15”) ride. I walked around Seogwipo a bit before going to my hotel, taking note of it’s “restaurant street” where some people were still enjoying their meals and an outdoor café that looked enticing, but I was too tired to give it a try.

kja - I couldn't do a trip like yours but I am a bit envious. I like to have all schedules available. For my trips to Japan, I have been able to find info online mostly in English but sometimes in Japanese which I am able to translate with the help of an online translation tool. Not that I go that far off the beaten path although I have been to Kyushu and Shikoku on two different trips where there is less English available. Also sites such as japan-guide and the TA forums are really helpful for Japan - I wonder if there is similar for Korea.....their TA forum looks a lot quieter but I might start reading it...
Thanks again for continuing your report - I look for updates daily...:)

I'm reading along kja. Have never been a tourist in Korea apart from the last week of May this year! So all your sightseeing is opening doors for me. Please keep going.
My (Japanese) husband was transferred to DaeWoo shipyard in 1982 for a year. It is not normal for Japanese wives to accompany their husbands on such transfers so the powers-that-be were a bit surprised when I just got myself over there and turned up. We had a 9 month old baby who I carried on my back Korean-style, and who slept in a drawer as we had no crib for him. It was very primitive, no expat facilities at all. No paved roads, no supermarkets, traditional Korean houses like we saw in Bukchon, very iffy electricity supply. The local people were lovely just as you say. I spoke Japanese to the older people and English to the young ones. Wish I had tried harder to learn Korean; I don't think Hangul is hard to learn.
The only 'sights' I saw were Pusan and Seoul/the DMZ, and the train journey in between, so it is now time to catch up. Our recent trip to Seoul was another business thing 32 years later, but this time I had a week of sightseeing to myself while he was stuck in meetings.
Are you going to Pusan next??

@ Mara – Oh, how I loved the ease of obtaining information about transportation in Japan! I planned everything from door-to-door (with back-up options, too!), as I was also able to do for Switzerland – planners’ fantasies come true! But so far as I know – and I looked! – nothing quite so extensive is available for South Korea at this time. VisitKorea is similar in many ways to japan-guide, but not quite so informative, and it did hold a few inaccuracies that threw me off a bit (e.g., the times of the cruises along the Han River). Still, I was able to plan more than I have for some of my trips and was happy to get as much information in advance as I did.

And BTW, I can’t imagine why you COULDN’T do a trip like mine, if that’s what you wanted to do! :-)


@ gertie – OMG, to go to such a “primitive” area, without knowing the language, and with a 9-month-old!!! Even if faced with only difficult choices at that moment, it seems to me that you are one brave lady! Awesome!

Yes, Pusan (which I’ll call Busan) is next up. Thanks for joining me on this journey and for your encouragement!


<u>Day 14</u>: <b>Jeju-Do, in/around the Jungmun Resort</b>

My plan for this day was to see some of the things in and around Seogwipo and the Jungmun Resort, and I began by JUST catching my bus. Always a good thing! With the help of my driver, I got off at the Yakcheonsa stop and, for no particular reason that I can identify, I simply started walking forward. Hmm, I said to myself, didn’t I see the temple from the bus when I first arrived on Jeju-Do? Shouldn’t I be able to see it by now? And OH MY, this day is a scorcher! I finally saw someone I could ask, and the gestures clearly indicated that I should go back. Oh no! I had just walked well over a half-mile in the wrong direction in the blazing sun. :-( I turned back.

<b>Yakcheonsa. </b> I was fortunate to approach this temple just as a service was about to begin and the sounds of the bell began to fill the air. There were several monks chanting inside, and a large group of people – monks and tourists – taking part in the prayers. I knelt for a while in a distant corner that offered me reasonably good lines of sight without (I hope) disturbing anyone.

At least according to some sources, the main hall of Yakcheonsa is the largest in Asia, and I have no reason to dispute that claim – it is BIG! The design of this relatively new temple (built, I believe, in the 1990s) seemed to be dictated by tradition, but no attempt appeared to have been made to hide the fact that it was modern, and I appreciated that.

As the service proceeded, I took some time to walk around the grounds and found several very pleasant spaces. And the main entryway – which I had skirted upon hearing the temple bell – was quite lovely, with stairs leading from a large, landscaped, pond, complete with small waterfall.

<b>Around Jungman Resort. </b> My bus driver made sure I got off at the main stop for the Jungmun Resort. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize that there were SEVERAL Jungmun Resort bus stops and that I had already passed the one I actually wanted. All I knew was that I didn’t think I was in the right place. I pulled out my guidebooks and maps and soon discovered my error. But it seemed there was a bright side – there should be a TI desk nearby! So I walked and walked, forward and uphill and around, and I saw NO sign of a TI desk. I finally gave up. :-(

I opened my maps again and determined how to reach the Jusangjeolli Cliffs, which is where I had hoped to start my exploration of this area. I identified a route that would give me at least a little bit of shade for part of the route. Need I mention that the shade ran out LONG before I reached my destination? At the bottom of a long hill, I crossed a bridge over a stream and then started walking on unshaded sidewalks that swept this way and that around large building complexes. It seemed like quite a long walk! Long enough for a bus going in that direction to pass me (sigh).

<b>Jusangjeolli Cliffs. </b> These cliffs, which are formed of hexagonal columns of lava, are stunning and were worth every overheated moment it took me to reach them! :-) Waves crash into the inlets that these cliffs form, and there are interesting variations in the heights and diameters of the columns, and good signage in several languages – including English – providing visitors with information about their formation. I’m so glad I saw them!

<b>Cheonjeyeon Falls. </b> My next goal was to visit the Cheonjeyeon Falls, which are part of a stream that carved the valley that I had walked above and across. How I hated thinking about going back into that unshaded stretch of sidewalks! I went as far as I could along the shore, then slowly made my way through the worst of the heat-radiating sidewalks, grateful that they were, at least, relatively flat. Finally reaching the bridge, I crossed the coastal road and entered a park-like area at the base of the stream.

The area I entered – the lowest area -- seemed to be a nature reserve or bird-watchers’ park or picnic area or all three. Most walkways were wooden boardwalks positioned above marshes; the walkways intersected with each other and with shaded picnic pavillions. I saw ducks and cranes and, swooping from the cliffs above and then winging back upwards, some kind of bird of prey – hawks? I’m not a bird-watcher, but I certainly appreciate seeing the magesty of winged creatures, and this was a very pleasant place from which to do so. (Despite the mosquitoes -- thank goodness for Picaridine!)

I began to climb to the top of the ravine and soon rejoined the pathway I had walked down earlier that day. Near the top, I could see the arched Seonimgyo Bridge, which spans the gorge. Its sides are adorned with large figures of nymphs that appear to be made of some kind of nearly white/silver-ish metal. To be honest, I thought it overdone, but maybe I just didn’t see it from the right angle….

Then, crossing that bridge, I came to a path that led down through a lovely wooded area.The first set of falls I saw – which I think are known as the “second” falls -- were lovely. Several streamlets fell some distance before striking rocks near the edge of a pool, and there was a little pavillion from which one could see the falls (or at least one could if one waited long enough for everyone who was having his/her picture taken to step away).

Climbing back out of the ravine and then taking a different path down, I came to the “third” (?) falls in a setting that was quite different from what I had just seen. The far side of this pool is edged by the kind of hexagonal columns that formed the Jusangjeolli Cliff, but here they seemed to be light grey, not dark charcoal (because of differences in their exposure to water?). The “waterfall” was just a barely visible bit of water falling only a small distance with what seemed incredible discretion – but if I understand correctly, the flow can be quite dramatic at times. The clear, still waters of the pond and the dramatic formations of the cliff walls created a very picturesque setting.

As I was leaving, I heard someone say, in English, “Hello again. Did you like the falls? We saw you at Seongsan Ilchulban yesterday….” This time, I did recognize the speakers :-) – it was the young couple who offered me their prime viewing spot.

<b>Yeomiji Botanical Gardens. </b> The nearby Yeomiji Botanical Gardens include a set of five large greenhouse areas (devoted to flowers, water, cactus, jungle, and fruit) on the ground floor, a tower overlooking the area, and an array of outdoor gardens. These botanical gardens were not the best I have ever visited, but they held many pleasant areas and interesting plants and lots of beautiful flowers. The tower offered some striking views over the surrounding area – and showed me that the grounds included a Japanese garden. And what a lovely Japanese garden it was! I spent some very pleasant moments there.

<b>Seogwipo Port. </b> I took the next bus to Seogwipo’s port. It was clearly a working area – a place where fishers docked and unloaded their day’s catch and where other maritime work occurred, not a place for pleasure yachts or tourism. I was fascinated to see that small sapplings were attached to the masts of several fishing boats, something I also saw later in Busan. My guess is that this symbol of the land was a traditional ornament intended to sustain the hopes and faith of fishermen who were far off shore.

<b>Dinner. </b> Sylvia, my B&B host, suggested a fish restaurant in Seogwipo, the name of which I cannot now find. When we discussed my options, she said that the types of fish for which Jeju-Do is best known are typically served for two or more people, but she thought I could get fresh halibut sashimi here. It was excellent! The halibut, the banchan, and the service were all delightful. I paid about $20 for my meal, which included a large beer.

<u>Day 15</u>: <b>Jeju-Do to Busan</b>

<b>“Pleasure Boat.” </b> I began my day with a very pleasant boat ride from Seogwipo’s harbor and back. It took a bit more than an hour, afforded some views over the cliffs and rock formations of the nearby coast, rounded an island or two, and offered a distant view of a waterfall that drops straight into the sea. It was a nice, relaxing ride.

I then picked up my luggage and went to the airport, where I checked it temporarily. I stopped at the TI desk for some additional information; the woman there remembered me – she had placed the call to Sylvia for me.

<b>Jeju Mokgwana and Gwandeokjeong Pavillion. </b> I had just enough time to visit Jeju Mokgwana (a former Jeju government office complex) and the Gwandeokjeong Pavillion (the oldest wooden building in Jeju, just outside the main gate to Mokgwana) in Jeju-Si (Jeju City). There weren’t too many people there that day, but there was one large group of monks from, perhaps, India or Nepal -- their saffron robes seemed beautifully out-of-place. The government complex has been almost entirely reconstructed, but I found it interesting and pleasant nonetheless. Some buildings could be entered (I especially liked the view from the 2nd story of one); some held dioramas or arrays of artifacts. And there were some splendid old trees on the grounds.

<i><b> ***Old Grandfather statues (Dolhareubang). </b> Jeju is known for these basalt statues, which are believed to be depictions of shamanistic protectors; they are considered part of the cultural heritage of Jeju-Do. I had known of them before my trip; and I saw a LOT of recreations of them in various parts of Korea, but especially Jeju, where they seemed nearly ubiquitious. I think one or more of those outside the Gwandeokjeong Pavillion might have been originals, but I’m not positive! </i>

<b>Transition to Busan. </b> I returned to the airport in plenty of time for my flight to Busan. (Actually, I was much earlier than I probably needed to be, but I wasn’t looking for another TAR moment!)

Once in the air, there was a fair amount of cloud cover, but every so once in a while I could see an island or two below, or a bit of rugged coastline, or part of a fishing fleet. As the plane approached Busan, the cloud cover diminished and the scenery became increasingly enticing: Ridge after dragon-backed ridge; flood plains nestled between ridges; sunlight glinting off rivers and sea and rice paddies; waves rolling and breaking against rocky cliffs and sand bars and fingers of land; islands, some connected by bridges…. (gertie – I bet I saw the bridges connecting Kojedo to Tongyeong and Busan!)

Once in Busan, I easily found the light rail station; from there, it was easy to transfer to the subway line I needed, particularly because so many people volunteered their assistance. :-) From the subway, it was easy to find an elevator to street level. And from that elevator, I knew I was just blocks from my hotel. Which direction was not so clear. It took just a moment or two to flag down a taxi; the driver looked at the Korean name for my hotel and its address, shook his head, and pulled away. The next driver recognized the name of my hotel and said he knew where it was. But then he drove this way and that and it should have been only a block or two away...? Oh, of course: One-way streets make a difference! Minutes later, he helped me enter my hotel.

<b>Angel Hotel. </b> Here’s my TA review of the Angel Hotel, which is in the Seomyeon district:

“I spent 4 nights in a standard double for single use at the Angel Hotel and, given my priorities for Busan, was very pleased with the location – it is within a few minutes walk of 2 different subway stops (including one with elevator access) and very near some tasty restaurants in a lively section of town. My goals for Busan included several sites in and around the city, so ready access to its subway system was important to me. If your primary goal is to relax on one of Busan’s beaches, this location might not serve you as well.



“Staff spoke limited English – more than enough to make me feel welcome and to orient me to the neighborhood. Breakfast was nominal (a buffet with coffee/tea, fresh juice, and make-your-own-toast), which one collects in the lobby and takes it to your room to eat. BTW, there were at least two (and maybe more) places within a block or so that served a range of coffee/tea/other beverages and decent pastries at very affordable prices.



“The room itself met my needs – it was comfortable; had sufficient counter and rack spack in the bathroom, and had a bathtub (not just a shower).”

<b>Dinner. </b> The receptionist suggested a restaurant very near by. Wonderful! The short-rib stew with enoki mushrooms was delicious, as were the array of banchan, and the price very reasonable (with a large beer, about $14). :-)

kja - you are correct - I guess I could do a trip like yours if I wanted to....I don't think I want to though... ;-) Maybe a couple of decades ago....but now I am happy going to different areas of Japan....but next time I will almost definitely go to Seoul for a couple of days - pretty cheap flights from Japan....

The food there seems very reasonably priced - you didn't really mention the prices of your hotels etc. but it seems like they were probably reasonable as well. Did you specify a double room for single use? I haven't done that since I stayed in hotels in Paris before I rented studios....how does one do that in Korean? ;-)

What about getting won? Could you use your ATM card in banks there? What about credit cards? No problems?

kja, wonder how long there has been a light rail in Busan? Certainly wasn't when I was there, nor a subway neither. I arrived by ferry from Shimonoseki in Japan and left by train to Seoul. I expect the train line is all super fast and efficient these days.
I'm not a meat-eater, so the food I remember in Kojedo and Busan was fish: there were a lot of restaurants where they invited you to choose your own fish from the ones swimming around in the tank. Still happens? And we had fugu, the very poisonous puffer fish which in Japan can only be prepared by licensed chefs. I didn't ask about the chefs or licenses in Korea, but I'm still here 32 years later to tell the tale :)

@ Mara – One can do worse than continuing to visit various parts of Japan! :-)

Yes, food was icredibly inexpensive – or at least, I thought so! And my rooms were reasonable, too -- I think they ranged from about $40 to $100 per night -- though of course that’s partly a function of my selection process. I think I mentioned that I didn’t look at Western chains or anything high-end. I just wanted something clean, as well-located for my purposes as possible, affordable, and otherwise “better” rather than “worse." As a solo traveler, I’m really just looking for a place where I can rest my head and wash up. I used booking.com for almost all my reservations; that site allowed me to specify that I was looking for a room for one person and see information about the rooms (e.g., whether they were doubles or not) before booking. I don’t remember specifically seeking doubles, but all of my rooms were. I booked a few hotels through their English-language web-sites with follow-up e-mails; again, I had information about the rooms before I made my selections. The only remaining room was in Yeongju, for which I didn’t find any way to book on-line. In fact, I found very little information about options there. Two of my guidebooks mentioned the Rich Hotel, so once I was in Korea, I asked the staff at one of my hotels to call and reserve a room for me.

Credit cards and ATMs were no problem. Well, I was disconcerted to be unable to find a CIRRUS-network ATM at the Gwangju intercity bus terminal, but I no difficulty finding one elsewhere later that day. I only used my credit card for my more substantial purchases, and the only problem I had with it was at the hanok where I stayed for my last few days in Seoul: The proprietor said that her card-reader was not functioning; I agreed to pay cash.

I did have one problem with money, though: I wanted to make sure I had a supply of small-denomination coins in case I needed them for a locker or whatever, and as I accumulated them over the course of any given day, I typically kept them in a side pocket. By the middle of my trip, I had a nasty bruise from where they kept hitting me. =-o


@ gertie, my oh my, I don’t know that you would recognize Busan! The extensive, 5-line metro system there opened its first stations in 1985; according to Wikipedia, it now has 128 operating stations. Per the same source, the light rail line opened in 2011, connects Busan and Gimhae, and has 21 stations. The high-speed (up to 300 kilometer/hour) KTX rail system does not cover all of South Korea, but travels between Seoul and Busan in 2’18”. And yes, it’s all fast and efficient and really easy to use. :-)

And yes, almost every fish restaurant I saw anywhere in South Korea had huge tanks from which one could select one’s meal. (Do watch for my description of the Jigalchi Fish Market in Busan, coming up soon.)

I must admit that I have no intention of tasting fugu any where, any time! I may have an adventuresome streak, but license or not, there are enough perfectly safe fish in the sea to satisfy my needs. ;-) Still, I must ask: Did you like it?


<u>Day 16</u>: <b>Busan & Tongdosa</b>

<b>Busan Museum. </b> Like the several National Museums I visited, the Busan Museum (which is NOT part of the National Museum system, at least as I understand it) was in a modern and spatious facility with well displayed items that covered the region’s prehistory onward and used good signage in English. But unlike the national museums, the Busan Museum covered history. The coverage of wars with Japan was much more extensive than I had seen elsewhere, where it had been presented only to place objects or traditions in context. And there was a section devoted to the Korean War, something I didn't see at any other museum. (I'm sure there are such museums, although I didn't visit them.)

<b>U.N. Cemetery. </b> From the Busan Museum, it is a just a short walk up to and then down through a park-like area to the U.N. Cemetery, guarded by uniformed soldiers. At the gate, I was asked my nationality and then asked to untie my clothes. What?!? Oh! I had completely forgotten that I had a cardigan tied around my waste, and the soldier did not think it was sufficiently respectful for me to wear it that way. No problem! I certainly meant no disrespect, and whether my attire that day was or was not intially respectful enough, I appreciate that the soldiers who man that gate pay attention to such matters.

I first visited the Memorial Chapel and Memorabilia Hall, where signs made it clear that the purpose was to acknowledge ALL countries that participated in this war and ALL the service members who put their lives on the line. I don’t think anyone who paid attention could fail to get that message. And, as a U.S. citizen, I don’t think anyone could miss the acknowledgements of the enormous losses that the U.S. suffered in that war. But I didn’t lose a relative there, so I can’t speak to that issue – or to any other aspect of this cemetery – as some might.

The cemetery itself is on a large, verdant slope edged by shaped evergreens; if there was a memorial marker that did not have a rush bush, I didn’t see it – almost all of the rose bushes were small, but the colors and sizes varied from one marker to the next; I found it a poignant way to individuate the memorials to those who might so easily, with the passage of time, become “just another” of the fallen.

I had known, before I visited, that most U.S. soldiers’ remains had been repatriated, so I wasn’t surprised that the section holding the graves of U.S. soldiers was quite small. (The graves of those from differing countries are in different parts of the cemetery and are marked by flags and sometimes other national memorials.) What I hadn’t expected was an entirely different section of graves, also divided by nationality, that appears to include those of servicemembers who died after the war. As I now understand the applicable U.S. regulations (and I could well be wrong!), qualifying servicemembers who served in Korea and who asked (or whose family members asked) for burial at this particular site may be eligible for interment here. And it wasn’t just servicemembers from the U.S.: This area of the cemetery held some (not many) graves of people from quite a few countries, all with dates of death long after the armistice.

There is also a Wall of Remembrance that records the names of all the non-Korean soldiers who died during the war, ordered by country and (for those from the U.S.) by place of birth (even if outside the U.S.), and then alphabetically by last name. I found it a peaceful place to honor the sacrifice of so many, from so many places.

I didn’t see many Westerners there. I saw a LOT of Koreans. I can’t imagine what it would be like to live in a country where some families have never been able to reconnect even 60 years after armistice and where the majority of the living population has never known what it is to live in a country that is not technically at war.

<b>Tongdosa. </b> Tongdosa is the second of the 3 “jewels” of Korean temples that I visited, and I believe it is South Korea’s largest temple. It is extensive! I went there by subway, then intercity bus, and then by foot through a few blocks of an urban area, followed by about 1.5 kilometers beside a stream in a wooded area. There were quite a few people enjoying the setting, including many families who were picnicing on large rocks in the streambed, and children running around whooping and jumping and splashing…. The path was lined with inscribed stones (and inscriptions on stone outcroppings and cliff sides) and, close to the entrance, stela memorials to noted monks who had spent time here.

I won’t walk you through this very impressive temple; I’ll just note a few things that really stood out for me:

Several temple halls had features that I believe are not very common -- eaves that were supported at each corner by a canted pole; roof tiles that were individually stabilized by a stone in the shape of a lotus bud; lanterns that still hold celadon oil lamps; some awesome and unusually shaped stupas that are believed to house relics of the Buddha …. There were also lots of features that I’ve seen at some (but not all) other temples – dragons within the eavework and lovely woodwork and wonderful finials….

The temple’s museum includes some very impressive treasures. The museum also had a special exhibition of some particularly noteworthy large-scale temple paintings of the sort that often hang behind a seated Buddha sculpture.

<i><b> ***Korean Buddhas are bearded! </b> It was at Tongdosa’s museum that I first realized that Korean Buddha images have beards (generally a small patch of hair just beneath the lower lip) and moustaches. =-o I don’t think I’d ever seen facial hair on a Buddha before, although since returning home, I have learned that it is not unique to Korea. I had no idea! </i>

There was a group of six Westerners at the temple – more than I had seen in days! I think they were speaking French, though that is hardly relevant. But every time I, or anyone else, came anywhere near, they converged upon one another, as though forming a defensive core. ?!? Any number of Koreans greeted me and some spent several minutes interacting with me. I’m glad those other Westerners saw something as special as Tongdosa. I hope they learn, some day, that there are places where it can be both safe and rewarding to let one’s guard down at least a little.

There was a food stand next to the museum that sold delicious little treats – pastries shaped like walnuts (but larger), stuffed with walnut paste. In comparison to other food purchases I made in Korea, I thought the price for one a bit high – until I realized it was for a whole bag of them. :-)

As I was about to leave, I turned to admire the sun beginning to set behind the mountain that backs this temple, and as I did so, I noticed a monk enter the bell tower and begin the preparations for the evening ringing of the bell. I found a good place from which to watch. As he did whatever it was that he was doing, other monks arrived, as did other tourists. After a while, the evening call to prayer began – a gong strike, then a bell, and then OMG, the drums! Tongdosa’s are enormous – literally, taller than a man – tall enough that a man has to reach upward to strike the upper parts. (Buddhist temple drums are positioned so that the surface one strikes is vertical.) At least 3 different drummers took turns; as one was ready for a break, he moved to the side of the drum’s head and another drummer joined him and began playing before the first one walked away, so the drumming was continuous. And it was musical and inspiring and absolutely awesome and lasted for at least 20 minutes. And then the fish was played – and of all the temples I’ve visited and all the fish I had seen, I had never actually seen one played, so that was cool! And then, after just a strike or two of the gong, the monk who was responsible for ringing the huge bell began his performance, which required strength and agility and amazing footwork. All of this, BTW, performed by monks who were wearing robes, so the sleeves and bases of the garments flowed out with each strike of drum or bell…. What a privilege it was to experience this event!

I left just before the final strikes of the bell were completed, and it was delightful to walk back along that stream-edged path with the sounds of that bell echoing off the rocks and disappearing into the trees. I am one lucky person!

<b>Dinner. </b> I found my way by foot, bus, and subway (and the kind attentions of several South Koreans) back to Seomyeon and then walked around, enjoying the area’s vibrant activity as I browsed restaurants. I selected one that looked like it had a good crowd of happy diners and chose the day's special, which turned out to be some kind of pork dish. The best part of this meal was, IMO, a delicious crab soup. All-in-all, neither the main dish nor the majority of the banchan were as good as what I tasted elsewhere – but it was still quite tasty and, with a large beer, cost all of $10. Not bad!

Interesting report on the request to 'untie your clothes'... I remember going to the DMZ in 1978ish and being told my jeans were not suitable attire. The tour leader had a supply of skirts for deviants like me to wear... it made me look like something out of a 1940s spy movie. Apparently that is the image the south wanted the north to see. Wonder if it has changed. Are you going there?
And yes, the fugu was delicious. I have had it subsequently in Japan and I still like it.

Your report is so interesting! You manage to fit so much into your days! I must admit I am a lazy tourist and I am taking notes on the Jeju segment but I doubt I will achieve seeing all of those sights! I am going to send my son a link to this report as I think he may find your take on Gwangju and Seoul good reading.

@ gertie – Now I, too, wonder whether the standards for acceptable attire at the DMZ have changed! I can’t answer, as I didn’t go there. Maybe someone else has?

BTW, this "installment" includes my experience of the Jigalchi Fish Market in Busan....


@ SeeHag – You are very kind! I found my experiences interesting, but I have a bit of difficulty thinking that my words about those experiences would be all that interesting.

Yes, I do fit a LOT into my trips! I find the opportunity to travel priceless and want to take full advantage of every possible moment. That’s another advantage I find to solo travel – sightseeing is my ONLY purpose! Your visit to JejuDo will be quite a different thing, and I would think that the chance to spend time with your son and his wife, and to become acquainted with her family, would be more than enough reason to be very selective in your sightseeing. I would be very pleased if my observations help you select a few places to visit – or, for that matter, a few places to rule out.

By all means, send the link to your son if you think he would be interested! And encourage him to let me know his reactions.


<u>Day 17</u>: <b>Busan</b>

Noticing that rain was forecast for the next day, I spent a few moments over breakfast reconfiguring my plans and then set out. And oh!, look at that!: a Starbuck’s that is open early in the morning! That could come in handy!

<b> Haeundae Beach.</b> There is a subway station just a couple of blocks from Haeundae Beach, which many consider South Korea’s finest beach, and what I saw when I got there was … a small stretch of sand topped by seemingly impenetrable fog. I couldn’t even see the water! I stopped at a very helpful TI office right there, and by the time I left, the fog had begun to burn off. I walked along the paved promenade, appreciating the spotless WCs, “safe beach” changing facilities, and occasional bit of outdoor art.

By the time I got to the western edge of the beach, most of the haze was gone and I could appreciate views of waves washing into this long, sandy beach. I spent a few moments on wooden walkways around the cliffs at that end, with glimpses of a mermaid statue and people fishing. I then walked along the beach, looking for a nice shell or two. It was fun to watch some children playing near the water’s edge, and a few others running and flying a kite.

<b>Geumjeong Sanseong, the fortress above Busan.</b> I took a subway and then a bus to what I believe was the fortress’s east gate. A very nice park ranger who spoke only a few words of English pointed to a large posted map and suggested a route that was about 5 km in length. This route led to a path one could take to a temple I hoped to visit – Beomeosa. From what I had read, I knew I didn’t want to climb FROM Beomeosa TO the fortress, because it was described as an unceasingly steep 2-km long path. But I’m OK with walking down -- off I went!

For the first 2'20" or so, the path took me down a bit, and then up a LOT, and then down a bit, and then up a LOT, etc. There were times when I looked into the distance, and saw a path going up a further and higher hill, and each time, I said to myself, "please, oh PLEASE, let my turn-off be before that!" Never happened. I climbed and climbed and huffed and puffed and eventually reached the (thankfully) clearly marked summit. At least there would be more down than up from that point on! The views were stunning, looking out over ridges and around ice-cracked rock formations and down into the valleys where I could see parts of Busan and it's waterways. Worth every step!

And then I started down, down, down…. It took me nearly an hour to descend what was essentially an unending stone stairway, with only a few small stretches of anything else (e.g., a relatively flat area near the fortress's north gage). The steps were often so deep that they required extra care, and the last stretch was through a forest beside a creek that was piled high with car-sized boulders – WOW! Apparently, that is no accident: The site for Beomeosa was selected, centuries ago, because of this river of rock. It was oddly reassuring to know that the boulders hadn’t fallen just yesterday. ;-)

And through every stretch of that entire hike, from bus stop to temple, I encountered Koreans marching along in either direction as though on a moving walkway. Awesome!

<b>Beomeosa.</b> What a welcome sight! I hadn’t completely run out of water on my long, hot walk – but only because I began to ration it early on. :-( I was so VERY glad to find the temple’s spring, and OMG, it was so fresh and cold and satisfying!

Beomeosa has some unusual features that I found very pleasant. As examples, I liked the images of flowers and birds above the main altar; the extensive use of green in the paintings of another building; and the gate formed by a single row of very fat supporting columns, rather than the usual design with weight-bearing columns on both outer edges. There was also a tall pole that held a loudspeaker and some lights that had been bedecked with fir branches.

Nonetheless, to my eyes, Beomeosa did not have the beauty or grandeur or charm of most of the other temples I visitied while in South Korea. It wasn’t at all unpleasant; it just wasn’t, IMO, top-tier. YMMV.

<b> Return to Busan. </b> A relatively short downhill walk brought me to a bus stop, and a nice couple quickly confirmed that I was in the right place to catch a bus to the nearest Busan subway station. Later, they also walked partway with me to the subway.

From there, I went to the stop that was closest to Busan Tower. In a small, Westernized, pedestrian-only shopping street nearby, I saw a sign that read, “Celtic Pub.” :-) If I hadn't been so tired, I might have done a bit of a jig right there! I had a cold Sam Adams, served with little pretzels and a second story view of people who were shopping or window-shoping or strolling below. I am sometimes amazed by how restorative an unexpected treat can be!

<b>Busan Tower. </b> The very tall Busan Tower, which tops one of the hills near the city’s harbor, has an observation deck near the top. And glad tidings: One can take an escalator from street level (by the Celtic Pub) almost all the way to the base of the tower. :-) There were some stairs at the top, but not too many.

I bought my ticket and was soon whooshed upward. Such wonderful views! I was there in time to watch night descend upon this beautiful city, and IMO, Busan is, indeed, beautiful. I could see it’s harbors, and the bridges that crossed their narrowest points; and the vibrant heart of “downtown” Busan; and the lights coming on the clusters of high-rise apartments climbing the city’s hills; and the deepening darkness of the forested hills that have so far escaped (or are too steep for) housing developments…. It was a very clear night, and if there are better times for views over Busan, I don’t care – these views were gorgeous!

<b>Jigalchi Market.</b> I thought it might be too late for a stop at Jigalchi, the most famous fish market in Busan and perhaps all of South Korea – but what did I have to lose by trying? So I walked fairly quickly through Yongdusan Park, from which the tower rises -- just long enough to see that there were couples enjoying a quiet romantic moment and families finishing their picnics and a few people playing badminton on public courts. Back down the escalators, through an underground passageway to avoid a busy roadway, a few blocks on surface roads with an increasing number of streetside vendors, and voila.

I can’t say that Jigalchi was substantively different from the many other fish markets I saw in South Korea, except that it was HUGE and the indoor part didn’t seem to have the usual, seemingly random array of shops, instead being almost exclusively devoted to fish and shellfish. That, and – as every guidebook I consulted mentioned – it has restaurants that will cook your newly purchased fish on the floor above. :-)

By the time I reached it, the market had begun to shut down – less than a half, perhaps only a third, of the vendors were still there. But it was still a decidedly lively place, and I was far from the only person walking around. As a woman, I decided that I would try to patronize one of the stands operated by a woman, and once I got a sense of the “lay of the land” (as it were), I selected a woman whose face seemed especially kind and whose fish seemed especially lively. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to communicate what I wanted with sufficient clarity; she thanked me and directed me to a nearby male vendor who spoke some English. He seemed to understand and soon used a net to flip a fish from the tank in which it had been swimming onto the floor. As he raised his arm, I turned away; I heard a loud “thwack” as he killed the fish with some kind of wooden implement. Then he picked the fish up in a bit of netting, confirmed that I wanted it to be grilled, and led me upstairs, where he gave the fish to one of the many women who earn their living by cooking seafood at one of many stands on the 2nd floor of the Jigalchi Market.

Soon, an array of banchan appeared. Looking around, I could see people eating lobster and shrimp and other shellfish and various types of fish, large and small…. What a place! And then my fish arrived, and OMG, I don’t believe that I have ever eaten a fresher or more perfectly grilled fish. :-) It had been gutted and deboned, but it still had its skin and it had curled under the heat, so its head and tail were lifted above the plate -- it looked ready to jump off. I have no idea what kind of fish it was – the skin was a dark charcoal color; the flesh was white and almost “fluffy”; the whole fish was maybe 9 inches long and 3 or 4 inches from underside to topside. Wonderful!

I told the fish vendor that I was willing to spend up to 10,000 won for my fish; the fish, its preparation, the banchan, and a large beer cost less than $20.

While walking to the subway station after leaving the market, I passed several vendors who were tending street-side stalls. At one point, I turned to snap a photograph just as a rat tried to grab an eel off a table. =-o I gasped, it let go, and I don’t think the vendor saw any of it. Much as I love walking through outdoor markets, I’m glad I do my shopping in a grocery store!

I took the subway back to Seomyeon. As I consulted the station map to make sure I knew where I was in relation to my hotel, a young woman offered her assistance; we walked most of the way together and I thoroughly enjoyed chatting with her.

kja, that fish market and having the one you picked out cooked for you sounded really cool! And the price is sure great as well. Thanks for answering my questions in your post of yesterday.

I think I figured out the difference between what you do and what I do - in Japan I have been able to take public transport to almost every place I wanted to go. It seems in Korea this is much more difficult - also I read through your China report about how you hired a taxi and driver on more than one occasion - I couldn't imagine doing that - it's not my style, and I would be very nervous, not for my safety but to be ripped off....or scammed. I hate taxis - the only time I take them in NYC is when I have to see my doc and I'm too ill to take the subway....lol...Although I did take three taxis in Japan this trip but only from the station to the hotel or hotel to hotel since I had two pieces of luggage....

Did you do a Japan report? I am curious if you did the same type of traveling there....you are a brave woman....for sure!

I am already doing research for a trip to Seoul next spring - all due to you! :)

I'm still here and still enjoying your report. I love reading your words. I feel like I'm tagging along just behind you. It's hard to get such a good balance in a report but you cover things so well, give a great rundown of things and keep me "on the edge of my seat" and waiting for more Thank you.

I like your observations of the people along the way. That is one of my favorite aspects of travel. The helpful people, the monks drumming, the wary French tourists.

Yes, our trip will be more about being with our new family but I know everyone will want to get out to see a few sights.

Busan sounds beautiful! I hope to see it on a future trip.

@ Mara -- What a thought provoking response!

So let me dispense with the easy parts first: No, I did not write a report on my delightful trip to Japan. I went there in 2006, before I had ever looked at Fodor’s Forum. For that matter, while I try to do something after each trip to give back and pay forward, this is only my second detailed trip report. I wrote one about my trip for China, and am writing this one, because I spent so much time in places that are almost never mentioned on Fodor’s, and I hoped/hope that others might find some value in my overlong ramblings.

Quite honestly, I feel like I’m the one who should thank you for traveling with me and posing questions and showing interest in what I have to say – I really do appreciate it!

I don’t think of myself as brave – I think of myself as self-indulgent. I admit that I have begun most (if not all) of my trips with at least some anxiety -- and sometimes more than frisson of fear! – but I also know that I do enough research to be reasonably confident that I am not taking particularly unnecessary or unreasonable risks. My personal choice -- and I think it is a very personal decision -- is that I would rather face certain small risks than fail to take an opportunity to see a place that I want to see. I’ve always reminded myself that, at worst, I can go to the safest place I can find and hole up there. ;-) I’m pleased that I’ve never felt the need to take that recourse.

And for me, the “risks” have been worth it! – and let me be clear, I don’t think I have taken REAL risks. I was terrified before my first trip abroad: What if I couldn’t figure out how to buy food or get around? The simple discovery I could actually buy a piece of fruit was enormously freeing! And that’s the kind of thing I’ve found with every trip – for every small step into the unknown, I become ever more aware of how easy some things are and how much I can do to make things easier (or at least less complicated) and how incredibly kind and helpful people can be. And of course, some of the moments that weren’t quite so easy make for great stories that keep me laughing years later. :-)

You’ve obviously paid enough attention to know that I really, REALLY prefer to plan every possible step of my trips, so you must realize that my journey to China was WAY outside my comfort zone! I was very fortunate to have some incredibly informative and helpful support from Fodorites when I planned that trip, including input from thursdaysd (who is, IMO, a decidely brave and inspirational traveler) and from Peter Neville-Hadley (a true expert on travel in China). In some ways, the majority of my “planning” for that trip was planning what to do when I couldn’t plan, how I would manage if my plans didn’t work out, etc.

Despite all my fears and despite being unbelievably far from my comfort zone, that trip to China was fabulous, and as a corrolary, it was wonderfully freeing. Yes, I love to plan and I will plan every trip as obsessively as my time and available resources permit – but if I can’t, well, as long as I know my back-up options, I will no longer let the ability to plan determine where I go, at least not while I still have the energy and flexibility to have a reasonable belief that I can manage in the face of the unexpected.

So, no, I don’t travel the same way on each trip -- I try to tailor my trip to my destinations, except that wherever I go, I try to see and experience as much as possible and to cover a variety of types of things. I use public transportation exclusively wherever I can, but will take road trips if doing so substantially increases my opportunities to see/do what I want. I strongly prefer to book lodging in advance, primarily because I hate using my time abroad to deal with that issue, and also because I love booking that little place with only so many rooms that gets great reviews and is really affordable and is ONLY available if you book WAY in advance…. I try to learn something about local cuisines before I travel and perhaps target specific restaurants and even, sometimes, book a few in advance. I will plan to my heart's delight when I can and only in broad strokes when necessary and will do what I can to plan what to do when my plans don't work.

As for your much more pragmatic question about taxis: When I was younger, I never took taxis, and I still don’t if I have confidence that I can find my way from point A to point B without making myself too weary to enjoy what I want to see at point B. But if a short taxi ride in a metered cab will make my life substantially easier, I’m now willing to consider it!

When taking a <u>metered</u> taxi in China, Japan, or South Korea, I never worried about being ripped off.
- As I recall, I only took one or two taxis while in Japan; they were metered.
- I only took one unmetered taxi in South Korea (from Soswaewon to Gwangju). Given what I knew of taxis in South Korea, I assumed that even if ripped off (which I thought unlikely), it would be nominal. Moreover, I agreed to a price before hand. In honesty, I don’t believe I was ripped off.
- I think I took two unmetered taxis in China, and agreed to the price of each before hand. One was my all-day trip from Taiyuan through two specific temples and on to Wutai Shan. As I wrote in my report, I am fully convinced that I overpaid – but I did agree to the price beforehand. The other was a taxi from Datong to the Yungang Caves and back, and for that trip, several drivers entered a bidding war, so the price I ended up accepting was less than half of the originally offered fare. I don't know how much I overpaid; I only know that I paid no more than I was willing to pay and much less than I might have paid.

BTW, note that I would NEVER EVER take an unmetered taxi in China without a REALLY good cause – it is almost certain that one WILL be ripped off if one fails to insist on a meter when one is an option in China.

(The other two times I hired a car and driver in China did not involve a taxi -- in each of these cases, I signed up for a tour. In one case – in Datong – I made arrangements through a tourist office that had been flagged as “unusual” for offering a reasonably priced tour of the things I wanted to see there; I shared the tour with two other people. The other case involved signing up for a tour – as it turned out, I was the only person who did – to see something that was a really high priority for me and that I did not believe I could reach otherwise. I knew the cost in advance and decided it was worth it to me. And I have no regrets about these experiences – they allowed me to see things that I would not otherwise have been able to see at prices I was willing to pay.)

So, basically, I guess I’ve had enough confidence in my research to believe that I know how to avoid blatant scams and enough of a desire to see certain things that I’m willing to live with the knowledge that I might overpay if that’s what ends up happening. BUT let me say that it’s really easy for me to say these things, given that I haven’t ever really been victimized by scammers.

The bottom line is (I think) that we each need to find the line that feels comfortable enough for us to enjoy ourselves.

If you decide to visit Seoul for a few days, I think you will find many things to enjoy there and am glad to think that my words have given you (and maybe others) the information you need to help you decide whether to do so or not. But I also meant it when I said that you can do much worse than spending the rest of your travel days exploring more of Japan, and I look forward to hearing your evocative words about those experiences.

Sorry for such a very long response … your questions seemed worthy of serious answers. As far as I know, I've never been mentioned as a master of terse expression. ;-)


@ MaryW – What a truly lovely compliment you have paid me -- thank you so much!


@ SeeHag -- Thank you, too! I almost didn't mention those French tourists, but their behavior was so striking and seemed so inconsistent with the welcoming hospitality all around them that I couldn't resist. Otherwise, I can't imagine writing about my time in South Korea without commenting on the people -- they were such an integral part of the delight I took in traveling there!

Close up, I'm not sure that I would say that ANY city in South Korea is "beautiful" ;-) , but seen from a distance or from high up, oh yes, Busan is, IMO, quite beautiful! My early take on Busan was that it was a big, industrial, port city with some nice beaches -- aka, not my thing! But a very gentle friend who is from Seoul said several times, in his understated way, that he thought I might like Busan. So I read more and decided that there was more than that I might enjoy than I had originally thought. I could, I think, have seen my favorite parts in 2 or 2.5 days, but was glad I gave it 3 full days (4 nights).

I enjoyed reading the story of the fish market, especially the bit about choosing the fish and hearing the 'thwack' as the vendor killed it. That kind of thing is a bit too much gritty realism for me too! Once in the market in Kojedo we thought we would buy some chicken. The stallholder pointed to a cageful of fluffy white squawking chickens and asked us which one we wanted. We decided we didn't.

I have also enjoyed reading your comments on solo travel and I would say I agree with you. Like you, one of the great joys of solo travel for me is being able to do exactly as I like. If I want to do only sightseeing (and I do) then I can. No wasting precious time on other things like boring shopping or too much eating:)

Re the planning, I too do quite a lot, depending on where I am going. For example, I always just go to the Greek Islands without plans or reservations because I am very familiar with them and confident it will always work out. There are so many ferries and lots of little places to stay that are of an acceptable standard for me.

If I am a bit wary or just lacking in time, I have taken some organised small group tours: Explore, or GAP Adventures, like last summer to Armenia and Georgia. It just seemed easier to be organised in countries where I didnt speak the language and wasn't sure about the tourist infrastructure. These group things are a compromise and I enjoy them less and less these days.

I did 2 months in south America earlier this year and I enjoyed best the bits I did on my own. Yes, you have to be careful with taxi drivers but there is a fair bit of info online these days. And when I do get ripped off, I always think they need the money more than I do with my first world lifestyle and income. And as for safety, I just go with my instinct. Have had one or two hairy moments but... I would say Japan and Korea are two of the safest countries I have travelled in.

:) Enjoying your trip report and the tangential bits.