fsmdn

This is the first time I've posted anything and I'm hesitant to post, since my comments aren't as positive as some of the others. I thought, however, that prospective travellers might be interested in what we had to say. We just spent a month in South Africa, Zambia and Botswana, of which part of the trip was a Wilderness Safaris trip. I believe most of the postings for Wilderness Safaris are for either their lodges or their "Discovery safaris." We went on an Adventure safari, which is the least expensive trip they provide. We certainly didn't expect luxury - we are very happy staying in backpackers lodges - but were quite disappointed with some of our experiences with Wilderness Safaris (with the one exception of Shackleton's Lodge in Zambia which is phenomenal). Although the description noted that accomodations would be in tents, they were described as having comfortable simple beds with luggage racks and a table and lamp as well as a small veranda. The reality is that the tents were very very small (in most of them an adult wouldn't be able to stand fully), the beds were very uncomfortable, only two of the tent locations had a lamp or any kind of lighting, there was no place for backpacks other than on the floor and none of the tents had any kind of a veranda. As well, at several camps we had problems with the zippers on the tents which were broken and couldn't close and the staff was unable to fix them properly - lucky that I had brought a roll of duct tape since that is what we had to use to close parts of the tent at night. As well, we weren't very happy with our guide, for a number of reasons. Also, the car we were in for the 9-10 days, while being open on the sides and top, had some serious viewing limitations from the front. It was almost completely covered in the front, so you could really only see out the sides. The guide told us that they were planning on redesigning the car to take that into account, but in the meantime it does impede wildlife viewing. As well, people should be aware that the "all-day game drive" consists of 12 hours of very rough driving, with a brief 15 minute stop for a quick lunch. The road is very very rough, though we did have some good animal viewing on that day. We are young and fit and it was still tough for us, and we wondered how older guests would handle it, particularly since our guide told us stories about some of the older guests passing out on that particular drive. All in all, from what I have read, Wilderness Safaris can provide a very good experience - and in fact we made a pit stop at one of the Discovery campsites to refuel and there was a phenomenal difference. Anyone booking an Adventure camp should be aware that the accomodations are very rough (at least they were on our trip) and frankly, I would not repeat the trip. We are definitely not the type of travellers who are looking for luxury travel nor are we uncomfortable with somewhat rough situations - both of us have travelled extensively and lived in less-developed countries. In fact, some of our favorite experiences on this trip were with the least luxury and least expensive accomodations, but unfortunately Wilderness Safaris fell far short of our expectations.

All in all, now that we know better, we would either go with the Wilderness Safaris Discovery safaris (still a mobile tented safari but the accomodation difference is drastic), or select two or three lodges, carry on activities in those areas and do some self-driving, which is tough in Botswana but not impossible.

Lest anyone think we were completely disappointed with our trip, I want to point out a few places we stayed that are absolutely phenomenal. In South Africa in Kruger, we spent five days at Rhino Walking Safaris - two days at Rhino Post, two days at Plains Camp and one night at the sleepout. I cannot recommend a place more highly. The guides were the best we had, the 6 - 8 people who were with us were great, and the managers of Rhino Post were the best you can hope for. It is not over the top luxury the way I hear about some of the private lodges in the Kruger area, but it strikes just the right balance of luxury and adventure. I cannot recommend it highly enough. We will absolutely be back.

For the more adventurous, we absolutely loved Planet Baobab in Botswana and this is another place where we will defintiely return. It caters to backpackers and more adventurous travelers - their accomodations range from a spot to pitch your own tent for around USD10/night to bushman huts to mud huts (absolutely wonderful). They have a great bar and now even have a pool. We didn't want to leave - an absolute must do at PB is the 4x4 overnight on the Nxai salt pans. That might have been the best part of our trip.

If anyone wants more details or has questions about my trip, I'm happy to provide more detail. I just want anyone considering an Adventure safari with Wilderness Safaris to be aware that the accomodations and transportation are not quite as they are described in brochures, etc.

atravelynn

The Bushmen huts at Planet Baobab have my interest. Please tell us more about your 4 days there.

Thank you for your frank comments on the Adventure Camp and your brief contrast with the Discovery camp.

I gave an audible gasp when I read of some of the older guests passing out on certain portions of the trip.

Any more details you would like to impart would be very helpful.

Glad you had some great experiences too.

HariS

Like Lynn, i would be interested in more details as to areas in Botswana you camped and game viewing during your stay. You also did a mobile trip in Zambia? or am i mis-reading your post........

Thanks
Hari

Momliz

I, too, would like to hear more about Planet Baobab, and the 4 X 4 overnight.

Sorry that some of your trip didn't live up to expectations, but thanks for elucidating the rest of us!

bots

Hi Hari, PB is a great option for the pans.
Dont know if its the same trip but for 4 nights ,
"Road transfer from Maun to Planet Baobab,
1 Night at Planet Baobab in a Bakalanga Hut,
Bush walk, village visit, cattle post visit with traditional lunch,
1 Night under the stars at Ntwetwe Pan,
Quad bike excursion,
1 Night under the stars at Nxai Pan,
1 Night at Planet Baobab in a Bakalanga Hut,
All meals,
Road transfer from Planet Baobab to Maun."
US$ 967

HariS

Thanks, Bots......too late for me to plan for current Bots visit, but, for next year for sure. Nxai pan is very intriguing along with a trip into the Kalahari. Probably best during the rainy season?

Hari

cruisinred

Thank you SO much for your comments fsmdn. I am actually in the midst of planning a trip that will likely include both planet baobob and plains camp/rhino post!
Just a few questions, if 'ya don't mind-
How many days would you recommend for PB?
Were you able to see the habituated meerkat colony?
Is plains camp just walking safaris, or do they offer game drives as well?
How many days would you recommend at each (plains/rhino post), or if you had to choose just one, which one?

Thanks so much...this is a huge help in my planning!

atravelynn

Tents that do not zip are inexcusable. You seem like a hearty soul, not prone to complaining or nitpicking, so your comments are well taken. I'd even seek some money back on the nonzipping tents. That's not a minor lapse in luxury, that is a safety issue.

afrigalah

Thanks for your honesty. Your tents sound very much like the pup tent I take on my Oz bush trips...and I know no paying client would tolerate that

John

fsmdn

All - thanks for the supportive replies. For those who had questions about PB and Plains Camp/Rhino Post, I've tried to answer them below (my next post will provide more detail about the game viewing questions on our Wilderness Safaris trip and a bit more detail).

At PB, we stayed in the mud huts, which are "fancier" than the bushman huts. The term huts probably connotes something smaller and more rustic than they are - they are more like mud rondelles, but much much nicer than what you find at say the public camping grounds in Kruger, if you've seen those. If you stay in a mud hut I suggest requesting one of the huts that has a patio attached to it (not all of them have this). They are still in process of painting them, but it is very nice to have a nice wide patio in front of your hut. The huts are all painted differently and have a bright wood door as an entrance. The inside is all smoothed and polished concrete, which is quite beautiful. There is a nice jute-type rug in the center, with a table and chairs. There are built in shelves along the sides and across the wall. To the left and right of the room are twin beds that each have mosquito netting. The beds are phenomenally comfortable. In the back is a sink and toilet and next to that a separate shower. Note that since the thatched roof is not completely flush with the walls - for ventilation purposes - you will have a few bugs, spiders, etc (but harmless) popping in and out, but it is quite minimal and this didn't bother us at all. I will try and attach photos when I am able to upload them. If you go to the website, the first photo that shows a sort of brushed concrete bed with mosquito netting over it - this is the double bed in the family mud hut. In the twin huts, the double bed is replaced by a table and chairs and the two twin beds are against either side of the wall. The bushmen huts are much smaller and lower to the ground and are made of grass, rather than compressed mud. You duck to go into the entrance but I didn't have a chance to peek inside one while I was there. They are much less expensive than the mud huts, probably because they are quite a bit smaller. One of the guys who was there said it was very comfortable.

Although at PB we had the choice of booking the hut plus food plus activities, we opted to just book the hut and play it by ear once we arrived. I knew they had a bar menu, so we weren't worried about the food situation. Also, if you have a car, there is a grocery store not too far from PB. After being exhausted from Wilderness Safaris (WS), we just wanted to be free to do what we wanted. The pool had just been installed the week before and they were still painting the outside of it. It was really lovely though - there is a portion of the pool that is covered with thatch and another that is open, so you can find refuge in the shade if it gets too hot. I quite liked the idea that they had a "work for lodging" program, so a few travellers were helping to paint in exchange for free lodging. Also, I must add that they have hands down one of the greatest bars I've ever been to. The photos on the website don't quite show how interesting it is. Zebra chairs, outdoor fireplaces, a great curved bar, enormous green beer bottle chandeliers, funky pictures of Africa and some even from New Orleans from the 1950's, great music. Very laid back atmosphere. One night they had local dancers and singers come. Most people provided some tips once they were done, but there is no charge for it. On our second day, we thought of doing an activity but it turned out that they were short a guide so we ended up booking the 4x4 overnight in the Nxai pans. That's my only warning - if that's a warning at all - that they are not a big resort place so if you want to play it by ear as we did, you might have to adjust activities to accomodate what's available. Not a big deal to us, since we didn't want to be boxed into set activities. Although we had booked the mud hut for four nights, they removed the charge since we decided to do the overnight salt pans - very reasonable but as many of you know, oftentimes if you've booked and paid for something, it's very tough to get flexibility if plans change. They were very accomodating. The overnight to the salt pans was great: We first drove for about an hour and a half to get to the edge of the salt pans where the ATV's were located. Saw some zebras and jackals on the way. Once we arrived, we got a brief instruction on the ATV's - you should be aware that the ATV's are not automatic, they have 5 gears, and at first, I had a tough time controlling mine. But it was exhillarating once I got the hang of it. No helmets too - for those of us who are used to all the extra safety precautions you are surrounded with in the states! Instead, the guide wrapped our heads up in turbans to help keep out the sand. His instructions were brief - how to start, stop, change gear, keep up and don't go off the track. We went pretty fast - I think they go something like 70 - 80 km an hour, but the pans are so flat, that it's great fun once you get the hang of it. We rode for an hour or so, until all around you - 360 degrees - you see absolute nothingness. You really do feel like you're on the moon. Some PB staff had gotten out there earlier to build a fire, set up the toilet (short drop) and put out the chairs. They left as soon as we arrived. The guide made a barbecue over the open fire which was phenomenal and then we hung out and ate and had some drinks until one by one we went off to sleep. The nice thing about the drinks is that you tell the bartender back at PB in advance what you want and they pack it for you, but they only charge you for what you've actually consumed after you return. So you don't have to worry about over-estimating. They provide great sleeping bags and basically all you do is haul your sleeping bag out as far as you feel like walking, plop it down on the pans and that's it. It's absolutely beautiful and the one thing that anyone who goes MUST do. The next morning, we headed back and along the way stopped to see the seven sisters Baobab tree and also the Meerkat colony (we saw five of them). It takes them awhile to come out, but we were able to stand quite close to them and get some great "classic meerkat" photos. The rest of the time at PB we just did our own thing, hung out by the pool, ate food at the restaurant area which was simple but good and reasonably priced. I think I would recommend no less than three days there so you get some time to relax, sleep in the huts and enjoy the pool and bar, but also get to do the overnight to the salt pans. Also, although they provide road transfers, it might be a better idea to drive since the roads are very good (not like some of the other parts of Botswana) and I heard from another gues that there is great game viewing at some of the national parks in the area where you can self-drive. As for season - I think the best time to go is after the rainy season, actually. We were just there and if you go earlier in the year during the rainy season (apologies if I'm getting the months wrong), you can't drive into the salt pans because they are wet and muddy and quite dangerous as you can get stuck. So you have to wait until the water has receded completely. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any further questions on PB.

As for Rhino Post/Plains Camp - very very different from PB thought we loved both. PB is a funky, nontraditional sort of place whereas Rhino Post/Plains is a bit like what you'd imagine Hemingway's Africa to be (minus the hunting, obviously). We did the five day stay, which was two days Rhino, two days Plains and one sleepout. I thought that was great and would do that again. Rhino Post is luxurious than Plains - the bungalows are quite big, the food is a bit fancier, etc (note that drinks are not included at Rhino Post but they are at Plains Camp), but I'd say Plains Camp is my favorite. Maybe it's because it's smaller or it just appeals to my secret desire to say "I once had a farm in Africa ..." but it is quite special. If you love the outdoors, I'd say you should do Plains Camp for 2 days and one night at the sleepout. If you don't love the outdoors as much, then perhaps skip the sleepout and do one night at Rhino Post. Plains Camp does walking safaris and also driving safaris - so we would do a walking safari in the morning, for about 4 - 5 hours starting at about 6:00 AM, return, relax and then do an afternoon/night drive starting at 3 PM, so you get both at Plains Camp. Also, on the gamewalks there are two guides and both carry rifles and are very knowledgeable about the animals, so I felt very comfortable with them. When you do a sleepout, you walk to the sleepout, departing at around 3:00 PM as it's about a 2 hour walk to get there. Once you arrive, you have drinks, a braai and relax, and walk back in the morning doing a longer game walk. So overall in my opinion: ideal is 5 days (2/2/1), but if I only had 3 days, I would do two days Plains Camp and one night sleepout. Hope that helps.

cybor

Interesting thread - thanks.

If you don't mind, fsmdn, can you lay out your itinerary for us, as I'd like to see the logistics.

Also, what kind of vehicles were you using? Can anyone comment on these vehicles - are they exclusive to the adventure trips only?

Momliz

fsmdn - thanks so much for writing this all up. It sounds fabulous, and just what I would like to do. But, on the PB 4X4 overnight, did you have to drive yourselves to the campout? It sounds like a huge blast, but there is one in our group that can't drive a stick, much less a motorcycle. I guess that could be a problem, but, if we double up... hmm, we might be able to figure something out. When do the pans dry out enough to drive on?

atravelynn

Very informative fsmdn. You are good PR for Planet Baobab and Rhino Post/Plains Camp. They have not been mentioned much here. Thank you. Any meerkat info?

nyama

The collective noun for meerkats is: a mob of meerkats.

atravelynn

Thank you Nyama. Then I guess I am looking for a mob informant.

afrigalah

And if there's a lot of them, it's 'big mobs'...a common description in northern Oz for large numbers of anything, from sausages at a barbecue to crocodiles in the billabong. We've seen big mobs of lions, elephants, wild dogs and impala in northern Bots

afrigalah

Oh, and we took big mobs of photos, too

John

HariS

too funny.....in that case, john- i guess i'm looking for those big mobs in the near future.

I guess cheetah dont come in big mobs....but sightings of those "favourite two" will suffice....

Hari

afrigalah

Hari,

Four or five cheetah in the course of a single drive could qualify. The term covers unusually large sightings for a particular species...you could get back to camp and be justified in boasting you saw big mobs of cheetah. Especially if you had just sampled big mobs of 'tinnies' or 'stubbies' at the bar.

John

Thembi

Big Mobs !

There are Big Mobs of demented Africaphiles here.