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Trip report Botswana and Zimbabwe

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Trip report Botswana and Zimbabwe

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Old Aug 15th, 2008, 08:30 AM
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Trip report Botswana and Zimbabwe

Hello everyone,
I’m back, semi intact and slowly getting off African time.
Although there were a few glitches, delays and lost luggage, the trip was fabulous. 2 out the 3 bags were recovered in J’burg before our start to Mana Pools. The third bag somehow ended up in Houston, Tx. – go figure. It arrived yesterday with only a few things missing.

Due to our departure from Boston being cancelled due to the inability for flights landing at JFK, we spent our first night at the Logan Hilton sans everything but the clothes on our backs.

We used Bert at Fish Eagle who immediately took over and rescheduled our SAA and Air Botswana flights. This, I feel is a good sign of a decent agent.

At any rate, the only change in the below itinerary was losing a night at the falls.

I’ll post my pictures soon.

22 July 2008: JOHANNESBURG – this ended up being July 23
Southern Sun 1
1 n.

23 July: VICTORIA FALLS – cancelled
Ilala Lodge
1 n.

24 July: MANA CANOE TRAIL
3-n./4 d.

27 July: SOMALISA CAMP, HWANGE
3 n.

30 July: SELINDA CAMP, SELINDA-LINYANTI
4 n.

03 Aug: LITTLE VUMBURA CAMP,
2 n.

05 Aug: CHITABE LEDIBA CAMP,
3 n.

08 Aug: Quad Bike activity and Overnight trip to Ntwetwe Pan with braai (barbecue) dinner.
1 n.

09 Aug: PLANET BAOBAB
2 n.

Disclaimer;
This is all from memory. Facts, dates and data are subject to change. If random thoughts are not your thing you may not enjoy this report as this will most likely be word heavy. I’ll try to conserve but no promises.

July 23
Southern Sun
Decent enough hotel with a ok buffet and good shuttle transportation from the OR Tambo. However, watch the internet charges – I just got a bill with an overcharge of 24. USD

July 24 -27
Mana Pools Canoe Trip
Hectic day as we had to try for our bags again – found 2 but still needed to buy supplies that were missing from the still lost bag #3.

J’burg >VFA > Ruchomechi Airstrip 2hrs. 30 min. on a 4 seater

Unbeknownst to our SA seatmates they would be referred to as the chemical Bros. – they work on the chemical water issues at various camps and have been named after the US band. We got to know these guys intimately as by coincidence we ended up running into them on just about every later transfer.

Here’s where the trip really starts;
We were picked up by 3 people who introduce themselves and off we go. I ask who exactly they are figuring that they are transport people from the camp. They tell us that they will be our guides and hosting staff at the Mana Pools Canoe trip and that we will be the only participants. Oh my dog, another private trip.

There will be us, them and another staff of 6 who will set up, cook, move the camp and our stuff daily up river. I’ve died and gone to heaven and have already forgotten about the last couple of crappy nights. Feel kinda guilty about being catered to by so many but I’ll get over it.

So off we go until 3 of us at the same time look off to the left and see, what, could it be, a PANGOLIN. Our first sight, I kid you not.
Only one of the 3 guides has ever seen one fleetingly. We are told that this in Shona means that we will live to be very old and will remain very lucky throughout the rest of our lives. I feel lucky already. We observed from about a 3’ distance and got to touch the pangolin as it wasn’t remotely agitated. Got same great pictures for proof.

The first drive is always the best. We marveled at all the antelope, zebras and other usual suspects on our way to camp. Camp was 3 stand up in dome tents facing the water with an amazing amount of hippos that would provide endless sounds and entertainment.

The lu (sp.) had a view and was basically a real toilet placed over a sand hole. We were given a thimble to pee in evenings as we weren’t allowed to wander about after dark.
We had a canvassed in area attached to the back of our tent for that and bucket showering. We also had a canvas washing container and mirror that always seemed to be filled with hot water.
The beds were mattresses on top of cots – very warm and comfy. Much appreciated, as I was coming down with a killer cold.
I will kiss the Fodorite who recommended silk long underwear if they reveal themselves.

The Canoeing;
Because Mike and I have lots of kayaking experience we were allowed to man (or woman, if you prefer) our own canoe. Matthew (head paddler and hippo expert) and Brian (head guide) manned the other.
We’d start the day with teas, (real) coffee and a continental breakfast. Mine became the same every day for the entire trip – toast made from home made bread with African honey.
We’d generally paddle for a few hours then stop for a walk, then resume until we’d lunch on an island.
Lunches as well as all other meals and snacks were always spectacular. This, when you sadly think that people in Zimbabwe aren’t exactly eating properly.

We’d siesta after filling up after lunch, paddle, stop again for another hike and get back to camp by dark.
I make this all sound so dry because I can’t convey the shear beauty of the Zambezi River.

Although off limits to us, we had phenomenal views of the ranges in Zambia – close enough to touch. I couldn’t resist one day when we were on an island that was half owned by Zambia – I stepped on the Zambian side when the guide wasn’t looking. No alarms went off nor did any nets capture me. I can now rightly say that I’ve stepped on Zambian soil.
The wildlife, landscape and birdlife were spectacular. The fish eagles were nesting, the kingfishers were fishing, the hippos were active, the elles. were in the distance. I hope my pictures will help depict the magic of this place.

Our guides;
Matthew made us feel entirely safe. He seemed to be able to find hippos were one couldn’t imagine they’d be hiding. He could also stop an aggressive hippo with his calm tactics. Although he’s absolutely up on everything modern, he’s a traditional Shona (one of the original African tribes people.) His family chose his wife for a cattle dowry. Wives leave their families to live with and tend to the husbands entire family. Families now make offerings of cattle and other such things like cell phones. Wonder if I’d be worth the extended cell phone plan.

Bryan;
Our highly intelligent and ageless (he never reveals his age) gun toting guide. He could point out things that I never imagined. Our walks were fascinating.
He’s lived everywhere and experienced everything. I purchased his book about his great white hunter /conservationist step father that he wrote.
Kamchacha – Rhodesian Game Ranger by Bryan Orford email
[email protected] if interested.

Charmayne (sp.)
Our 21 yo smart as a whip and cheerful hostess guide trainee. She literally kept the fires going. My hope is that she makes her way in a man filled environment.

Random thoughts;
I will do this again. There are a few 10 day trips down the Zambezi that end in Mozambique that I’ll be looking into. Due to the fact that my feet literally never got wet and everything was done for us, I would do this again.
Camping, schlepping and setting things up generally are not my thing when vacationing. For anyone who enjoys being in a pristine untouched environment, this is a must do.
As for safety, from hippos a good guide is a must.
Also, another story – we had most of our valuables in the canoe one day and were hemming and hawing about leaving our bags in the canoe while we walked. Our guides assured us that no one would touch the canoes or our stuff – it’s never happened. There’s a true honor system that a skeptic such as myself must learn to accept. There is absolutely nothing bad happening to tourists in this lovely country.

My advice – GO. It’s truly far from living on the edge.

Off soon to Hwange and Somilisa – stay tuned




cybor is offline  
Old Aug 15th, 2008, 05:56 PM
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Excellent start cybor! Can't wait for the next chapter! An amazing trip right off the bat with a pangolin, how cool. Keep it coming!

matnikstym is offline  
Old Aug 15th, 2008, 06:33 PM
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Sherry, it sounds great! Pangolin, hippos, lost luggage (well, maybe not that part) and all. Can't wait for more.
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Old Aug 15th, 2008, 08:29 PM
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Great to hear things are good in Zim. We have a trip booked for May to Hwange, Mana pools and Vic Falls which we have been called fools for booking. It all sounds good from your report. Thank you for posting.
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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 04:42 AM
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wonderful report!
appreciate you encouraging people to visit zim and its wonderful people.
we are due to go to zim mid nov and as long as there are no news coming out that they quarter humans we will go - definately.

looking for more exciting reports!

divy don't
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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 05:05 AM
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I await your report on Somalisa with baited breath. There are horror stories coming out regarding Elephant slaughter, which I expect are from the same scaremongers as usual.
Good to hear that Mana Pools remains great, who did you use there?
 
Old Aug 16th, 2008, 06:37 AM
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What a start--a pangolin. That's great Bert got you back on track. You booked your flights through him, then? That's where the agent really makes a difference--when things go wrong.
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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 03:00 PM
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Thanks for your comments and good thoughts. Glad your reading.

kimac,
Go, enjoy and don't listen to those who will probably see more harm crossing their local street.
Where are you staying in Hwange?

snikt,
Due to great liquor consumption at both camps, we did have some pretty in depth conversations about everything from politics, black marketing, culling and punishment for poaching. Slaughtering, however, did not come up.
We used Wilderness, btw for Mana Pools. their pricing seemed to be inline with a few other companies.
There may be a few starter companies coming up that may add some competition.

cybor is offline  
Old Aug 16th, 2008, 03:06 PM
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Lynn,
Bert/Fish Eagle booked my in country scheduled and charter flights and I booked SAA.
cybor is offline  
Old Aug 16th, 2008, 04:30 PM
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27 July: SOMALISA CAMP, HWANGE
3 n.
The Mana Pools trail ended fairly close to Chickwenga camp which was where we met our 4 seater and the Chemical Bros. yet again. Older chem. bro. and I had nasty cases of bronchitis, while younger bro. and Mike had terrible colds. We made for good seat mates as no one was offended by all the blowing, hacking and wheezing.
Because these guys couldn’t help but be funny the whole plane literally shook every time we had coughing fits of laughter. Misery surely loves company.

The flight, as I recall, was about 2hrs. long and quite delayed according to Russ, our ride from Somilisa. Apparently, he was not informed of the delay and had waited 5hrs. at Hwange airport for us.

Despite this, Russ was a pleasure to meet and ride with for our 2 ½ hr. ride to camp. He’s an interesting guy who was previously a hunting guide who’s slowly turning around to photo safaris. Oh, how I love hearing that.

Anyhow, he told us to button up as the ride would be a bit chilly. How cold you ask. It was so windy that my contact lense blew out. As most of Mike’s cold gear was in the lost bag, he froze his poor little tail off. Me, I was mostly too miserable and numb to notice.

As we rode thru Hwange the roads got smaller and smaller as we got closer to Somilisa. The amount of elephants astonishingly increased as well. Driving slower most definitely warmed us up a bit as we saw the most phenomenal amount of elephants we will probably ever see. Hundreds! At one point Russ guessed that there was about 400 in one area alone.

We literally played and postured ‘Simon says’ to be allowed to pass these eles. We waited endlessly for the whole herd to decide to let us pass. The eles truly own the road here and if we behaved, we would be their guests.
It was great fun.

Upon arriving at camp we were warmly greeted and given warm towels and drinks by Noreen (wife of the notorious guide Benson) the fill in hostess, Henry our guide and the rest of the team. All for us, as we would be the only guests at camp.

Although I read somewhere that the camp is 3 paw or similar don’t believe it, as it’s very comfortable and attractive. The tents are white with hard teak floors, nice furnishings and sweet touches. The rest rooms are attached to the back of the tent and open to the sky. The showers are bucket. There’s a nice deck with lounge chairs outside the tent. The tents are quite private and spaced far apart.

Little niceties such as teas, coffees and plenty of hot water are set up in the tent.
The best part however, is the plunge pool that the elles. come to drink out of when it suits them. This is especially cool during the evening when the elephants look and sound so much more imposing with the stars and moon reflecting on them and the water.
Somilisa was in the process of building a pumped in water hole close by. I’m not sure if this will diminish the elephants who are regulars at the pool.

One could also see an array of other wildlife from the deck close to the pool. On our first night we heard a nearby lion and Henry had the Cruiser brought around so that we could find him. We found find the beautiful guy about 500’ from camp. As said, these people aim to please at this intimate camp. The lion stuck around for 2 nights and could be heard regularly from our tent.
No night walking allowed here.

Due to my chest rattle, cracking and whistling, I decided to medicate with Amurula. This became my constant companion throughout the trip. Nothing better than watching elephants come within a few feet of you while nursing ones illness with tasty and unlimited free booze.

As I was starting to sound like I belonged in the TB clinic and was quite exhausted, I bowed out of the second day drive. It killed me but I literally couldn’t get out of bed. The staff came by on a regular basis and gave me food and hot drinks. They couldn’t have been nicer.

The food was excellent and plentiful. Zimbabwe has some of the best beef in the world and these guys know how to cook it. Those who’ve been there know about the soups which are to die for. Desserts weren’t anything to sneeze at either. I’m so fat.

As for wildlife, we saw all the usual sightings that one would expect……... AND we saw the DOGS and my other favorite, SABLE - 3 males. We simply saw the dogs as they walked out in front of us on the road close to Hwange proper. The 2 blood covered male dogs had just finished their take from a hunt. One dog in particular was quite curious and came about 4’ from the vehicle and just stood there posing for us. The Sable on the other hand was more timid. Got some decent shots though.

I could hardly contain myself as this was the first time I had ever seen either of these magnificent species. Both were on my ‘want to see list’ but I wasn’t banking on it.

As you can imagine, we were very sad leaving this beautiful camp and the warm staff. We were however, looking forward to seeing the school children and orphans at our stop at the Hwange School on the way out. Unfortunately, our mailed package of goodies hadn’t arrived yet so we went empty handed.
Zimbabwe mail is a tad bit slow, I’m told.

The children were beautiful and so well behaved. Despite being feed one meal only a day these children seemed to be quite healthy and in good spirits. The owners of Somilisa (Sophia and Beks) contribute greatly to these children and will be putting up a website soon for those interested in helping. As soon as it’s up, I’ll post it.

As I said earlier, I saw absolutely no reason for tourists to not come to this beautiful and welcoming country. They have dedicated a huge portion of their country to conservation of the wilderness and the health of their wildlife. These proud people need us.
Do some research and if you find anything about tourists being harmed bring it to us.
If you have any questions about Zimbabwe or Somilisa, please ask.

More random thoughts;
With so much gushing, I have one suggestion for Somilisa. A tarp and a windshield may help the cold factor on those long early and late rides to the airport and back. Ponchos may be wonderful addition as well.
I’m sure this is simply an oversight and I’m the first wimp to complain.

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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 05:00 PM
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Fun read cybor, more please.

regards - tom
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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 08:19 PM
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Really enjoying your report. What bad luck to have a cold/bronchitis on the trip. Sounds as though it didn't slow you down much. I like the Amarula remedy.
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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 09:42 PM
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Cool trip report, Sherry, great reading! Just wanted to let you know you don't have to email me with the details, I'm following along here (see, I can't jump ahead & read East Africa trip reports out of order, but I can read Botswana and Zimbabwe reports out of order!)

Zimbabwe sounds like a place we would like.
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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 10:31 PM
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Great report, cybor. I have six hours to kill in the Moscow airport, so am now catching up on trip reports. Pangolin, wild dogs and sable -- some very nice sightings.

Michael
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Old Aug 16th, 2008, 11:15 PM
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Hi Sherry - Honestly, after your post the other day- I thought you were lucky with the dogs in the Selinda. What good luck to see them at Hwange and Somalisa sounds like a great place to be ....... can't wait to read what was in store for you in the Selinda.
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Old Aug 17th, 2008, 12:22 AM
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Sherry~so glad you loved Somalisa! It is a special, magical place and happy they didn't let you down. Sorry you were sick and the package for the kids didn't arrive. Did you stop at the Painted Dog Conservancy on the way out? And we too froze our butts off when leaving and we were in the Willys.
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Old Aug 17th, 2008, 01:39 AM
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Hi ,
I am so enjoying your report. We have 4 nights at Ruckomechi at Mana Pools, 4 at little Makalolo in Hwange , 4 at Matetsi nr Vic Falls then 3 at Duba Plains, 3 at Duma Tau then 7 nights in the Kruger region which I will book later ( will use MT beds). Only 8 more months till we go back. Our trip to South Africa this year was to be the big trip for 3 or 4 years before our long service holiday in 2010. ( in Aust if you work for the same company for 10 years you get an extra 3 months paid leave which is great for long trips). However Africa calls!
Looking forward to your next installment.
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Old Aug 17th, 2008, 04:06 AM
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Wow! Somalisa sounds wonderful. I will have to add it to my "to do" list.
I usually get bronchitis at least once a year. I can't imagine a better place to be sick than Africa!
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Old Aug 17th, 2008, 07:05 AM
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Hi cybor

Great trip report. Very envious of your pangolin.

I'm sure you'll get to it soon enough but can I ask a couple of questions about:

08 Aug: Quad Bike activity and Overnight trip to Ntwetwe Pan with braai (barbecue) dinner.

We're off to Botswana on Tues and that's something on our itinerary.

Was it good fun and what was the temperature like for sleeping out? (do I need my thermals???)

Thanks
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Old Aug 17th, 2008, 07:21 AM
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I remember you were hoping to see some dogs and included Chitabe to increase those odds. How wonderful you get them (and blood covered ones!) right off the bat.

Medicating with Amarula. That's what I'm going to refer to it from now on, whether suffering from a cough or not.

You certainly are not a wimp to mention you are cold because your carefully packed warm clothes were lost. Had you known you could have stolen the blanket off the SAA flight after the FA gave you such a hassle about even using it. (I'm referring to a lounge post, here.)

Somalisa continues to be a winner. Thanks for the comments.

Even more kudos, or is that kudus, for Bert of Fish Eagle for helping you with flights that you did not book with him.

Looking forward to more.
atravelynn is offline  


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