Egypt Trip Report
Sep 9th, 2008, 04:42 PM
#1
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Egypt Trip Report
This is just for starters:
<u>Hotels</u>:
<i>Cairo</i> - We stayed at Le Meridien Pyramids. We waffled between staying near the pyramids and staying downtown. Since we were on a personalized tour, we decided it didn't really matter. As it turned out, we would have preferred to have been downtown, because we did have one entirely free day, but we made our way downtown by taxi, no problem. The hotel was very nice, not the Four Seasons, but not Motel 6 either. It's classified as a 5* hotel, but I've long-since learned that 5 stars in some places is not the same as 5 stars in San Francisco, for example. It met or exceeded our expectations. The lobby is very pleasant, there was a wedding going on when we arrived (some complain about this, but we enjoyed it). The room was comfortable, large and clean (my biggest advance fear), and the shower was excellent. The plumbing and air-conditioning work (another concern). The front desk staff could not have been nicer. The breakfast was very good - a large buffet, with an extensive selection of fresh fruits, juices, all the typical breakfast buffet items such as scrambled eggs, pancakes, sausages, made-to-order omelets, cereals, etc. We had dinner at the Tex-Mex restaurant in the hotel, as it had been recommended. It was actually very very good. We ate fairly lightly - just an entree per person, soft drinks and beer, and two desserts for the table -- I think it came to about $80 for 6 people. I don't know the cost of the hotel because it was part of a package we arranged through Lady Egypt. Those who used the pool really enjoyed it.
<i>Aswan</i> We stayed at the Pyramisas Isis Island (my choice, the Old Cataract, is closed for renovations). Even our tour operator warned us that the hotel would not be as nice as Le Meridien, but it was fine. The lobby common area and the gardens/pool are actually quite nice (we had lunch at the poolside restaurant and it was good). The room itself was very plain - motelish, but we had a great view of the Nile and the gardens. Service was fine (one individual walked me to the pool, when I got lost and ended up at the "other pool"
, although I thought it a little odd when I asked if there was someplace I could get a newspaper and the front desk clerk had to ask around, ultimately coming back to tell me that had none that day, but if I was staying the next day, they'd probably have one! My biggest complaint about this hotel is that in 108 degree F Aswan, the air-conditioning did not work very well. It worked, but <i>just</i>. Again, good shower. Breakfast okay, nothing to write home about (I'm never happy unless there's a lot of fresh fruit, which there wasn't). I'd give the room 3*, the rest 3-1/2*.
<i>Luxor</i> We stayed at the Steigenberger Nile Palace. We were originally booked at the St. George, but were concerned about the construction (they're adding several floors to the top of the hotel). We liked the Nile Palace. Again, better than we expected (obviously, our expections were low LOL!). The furniture in the room could stand to be refinished, but it was clean, nicely decorated, comfortable beds, good shower (although the shower was a little narrow in circumference for my taste, it was still hot and strong). People in our group used the gym and said it was well-equipped. Breakfast was not as good as a Le Meridien, but those who don't crave fresh fruit as I do liked it! The pool is very nice. We did have loungers (and the pool attendants who brought them around did not wait around for tips!). Some of the loungers were in the sun and some in the shade, which was perfect for us. We had lunch at the pool and it was quite good and not horribly expensive. Two service complaints - they kept coming in to check the mini-bar, which was really annoying. Also, we had a slight issue with the front desk. Two of us were staying and extra night after the other four departed. First we were told we'd have to change rooms (why?). Then they told us we hadn't paid for the extra night (we had). In the end, it was fine, we stayed in the same room and didn't have to pay anything extra, but it was a little annoying.
I've got to go. TO BE CONTINUED...
<u>Hotels</u>:
<i>Cairo</i> - We stayed at Le Meridien Pyramids. We waffled between staying near the pyramids and staying downtown. Since we were on a personalized tour, we decided it didn't really matter. As it turned out, we would have preferred to have been downtown, because we did have one entirely free day, but we made our way downtown by taxi, no problem. The hotel was very nice, not the Four Seasons, but not Motel 6 either. It's classified as a 5* hotel, but I've long-since learned that 5 stars in some places is not the same as 5 stars in San Francisco, for example. It met or exceeded our expectations. The lobby is very pleasant, there was a wedding going on when we arrived (some complain about this, but we enjoyed it). The room was comfortable, large and clean (my biggest advance fear), and the shower was excellent. The plumbing and air-conditioning work (another concern). The front desk staff could not have been nicer. The breakfast was very good - a large buffet, with an extensive selection of fresh fruits, juices, all the typical breakfast buffet items such as scrambled eggs, pancakes, sausages, made-to-order omelets, cereals, etc. We had dinner at the Tex-Mex restaurant in the hotel, as it had been recommended. It was actually very very good. We ate fairly lightly - just an entree per person, soft drinks and beer, and two desserts for the table -- I think it came to about $80 for 6 people. I don't know the cost of the hotel because it was part of a package we arranged through Lady Egypt. Those who used the pool really enjoyed it.
<i>Aswan</i> We stayed at the Pyramisas Isis Island (my choice, the Old Cataract, is closed for renovations). Even our tour operator warned us that the hotel would not be as nice as Le Meridien, but it was fine. The lobby common area and the gardens/pool are actually quite nice (we had lunch at the poolside restaurant and it was good). The room itself was very plain - motelish, but we had a great view of the Nile and the gardens. Service was fine (one individual walked me to the pool, when I got lost and ended up at the "other pool"
, although I thought it a little odd when I asked if there was someplace I could get a newspaper and the front desk clerk had to ask around, ultimately coming back to tell me that had none that day, but if I was staying the next day, they'd probably have one! My biggest complaint about this hotel is that in 108 degree F Aswan, the air-conditioning did not work very well. It worked, but <i>just</i>. Again, good shower. Breakfast okay, nothing to write home about (I'm never happy unless there's a lot of fresh fruit, which there wasn't). I'd give the room 3*, the rest 3-1/2*.<i>Luxor</i> We stayed at the Steigenberger Nile Palace. We were originally booked at the St. George, but were concerned about the construction (they're adding several floors to the top of the hotel). We liked the Nile Palace. Again, better than we expected (obviously, our expections were low LOL!). The furniture in the room could stand to be refinished, but it was clean, nicely decorated, comfortable beds, good shower (although the shower was a little narrow in circumference for my taste, it was still hot and strong). People in our group used the gym and said it was well-equipped. Breakfast was not as good as a Le Meridien, but those who don't crave fresh fruit as I do liked it! The pool is very nice. We did have loungers (and the pool attendants who brought them around did not wait around for tips!). Some of the loungers were in the sun and some in the shade, which was perfect for us. We had lunch at the pool and it was quite good and not horribly expensive. Two service complaints - they kept coming in to check the mini-bar, which was really annoying. Also, we had a slight issue with the front desk. Two of us were staying and extra night after the other four departed. First we were told we'd have to change rooms (why?). Then they told us we hadn't paid for the extra night (we had). In the end, it was fine, we stayed in the same room and didn't have to pay anything extra, but it was a little annoying.
I've got to go. TO BE CONTINUED...
Sep 9th, 2008, 05:00 PM
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Delightful, dmlove!
I enjoyed reading your first installment, and I eagerly await your next posting.
I am planning my own first trip to Egypt, and your itinerary sounds similar to what I am thinking about.
Thank you for sharing your experiences and thoughts!
I enjoyed reading your first installment, and I eagerly await your next posting.
I am planning my own first trip to Egypt, and your itinerary sounds similar to what I am thinking about.
Thank you for sharing your experiences and thoughts!
Sep 9th, 2008, 06:08 PM
#3
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Great report!!!
As for the newspapers....we used to be able to get a few in Ma'adi (a Cairo suburb) - but they were usually a few days old. So - we would get USAToday (or International Herald or whatever) - but if it was dated the 5th, we had it the 9th. Then we would save the papers to use on the BBQ. But those papers were better than anything we could get in Azerbaijan!
During our years in Egypt, we learned to "read" the newspapers online and that trend continued in Baku. We checked the New Orleans and Houston papers as well as the national ones. It was so easy!
Now that we are back in the US - I really don't like "flipping" my way thru the daily newspaper, so we are only getting the Sunday ones!!!
As for the newspapers....we used to be able to get a few in Ma'adi (a Cairo suburb) - but they were usually a few days old. So - we would get USAToday (or International Herald or whatever) - but if it was dated the 5th, we had it the 9th. Then we would save the papers to use on the BBQ. But those papers were better than anything we could get in Azerbaijan!
During our years in Egypt, we learned to "read" the newspapers online and that trend continued in Baku. We checked the New Orleans and Houston papers as well as the national ones. It was so easy!
Now that we are back in the US - I really don't like "flipping" my way thru the daily newspaper, so we are only getting the Sunday ones!!!
Sep 9th, 2008, 07:05 PM
#4
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Part II (Still on hotels):
After Luxor, my daughter and I left for Madrid, but the other four members of the group (my husband, 23-year old son, his girlfriend and a friend of theirs) went to Sharm to dive, and then back to Cairo for one night before meeting us in London. They stayed at:
<i>Sharm El Sheikh</i> The Sofitel Sharm. The hotel is spread out on a hillside. You have to walk down from the entrance to your room. At the bottom, accessible by elevator, are the pools, restaurants, disco, etc. All rooms have balconies facing the sea. Rooms are typical Spanish tile-style, nice size, clean bathrooms, well-appointed. Beds were comfortable. By American standards, a 4*-. Staff was very nice. Bags brought to room quickly, wake-up calls were ontime (I forgot to mention this was true at all our hotels). Older, smaller, tv. Huge attractive pool with large separate hot tub. Comfortable and plentiful loungers, all under palapas. Poolside bar. Decent food at the pool. Overall, clean and attractive, but not quite up to Hyatt Regency/JW Marriott standards. Important to note: located on top of a hill, a very long walk from the main road, a $10 cab ride to Naama Bay and a $15 cab ride to the old port. There's really no other way to get around. There is a supermarket, McDonald's and a sushi bar located on the main road near the hotel (15 minute walk).
Next up: a couple of restaurant reviews.
After Luxor, my daughter and I left for Madrid, but the other four members of the group (my husband, 23-year old son, his girlfriend and a friend of theirs) went to Sharm to dive, and then back to Cairo for one night before meeting us in London. They stayed at:
<i>Sharm El Sheikh</i> The Sofitel Sharm. The hotel is spread out on a hillside. You have to walk down from the entrance to your room. At the bottom, accessible by elevator, are the pools, restaurants, disco, etc. All rooms have balconies facing the sea. Rooms are typical Spanish tile-style, nice size, clean bathrooms, well-appointed. Beds were comfortable. By American standards, a 4*-. Staff was very nice. Bags brought to room quickly, wake-up calls were ontime (I forgot to mention this was true at all our hotels). Older, smaller, tv. Huge attractive pool with large separate hot tub. Comfortable and plentiful loungers, all under palapas. Poolside bar. Decent food at the pool. Overall, clean and attractive, but not quite up to Hyatt Regency/JW Marriott standards. Important to note: located on top of a hill, a very long walk from the main road, a $10 cab ride to Naama Bay and a $15 cab ride to the old port. There's really no other way to get around. There is a supermarket, McDonald's and a sushi bar located on the main road near the hotel (15 minute walk).
Next up: a couple of restaurant reviews.
Sep 9th, 2008, 07:25 PM
#5
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Restaurants:
1. Felfela - We ate several times at the felafel stand (not the adjacent restaurant)next to the Le Meridien. It was really good and really cheap (a felafel sandwich, freshly made, for 1 L.E.) I fed 5 people lunch (3 schwarma sandwiches, 3 felafel sandwiches, and 2 cans of Coke for less than $5.00).
2. Tex-Mex restaurant in the Le Meridien hotel - very very good. About $80 for 6 people, for 1 entree per person, 2 desserts for the table, and soft drinks and beer all around. I ate last night at a local Mexican restaurant here in California and decided to order the same tacos I had in Egypt for comparison purposes (I'm usually a tostada or chili relleno eater). Well, the ones in Egypt were far superior to the ones here (not that this local restaurant is so good, it isn't, but you'd really think they could do Tex-Mex in California better than in Cairo!).
3. Aswan - we had dinner at Aswan Moon (listed in Lonely Planet). According to our tour guide, all the restaurants on the river in Aswan are the same - they all serve the same thing and it's all the same quality. We only had one meal, so who knows? It was pretty good, though, canneloni, meatballs & rice, lamb kebabs and rice, soft drinks. 4 entrees, 5 soft drinks, $40. Ate outdoors on the roof, overlooking the Nile - nice setting.
4. Luxor - first night dinner at Dean's, owned by an Englishman. Didn't like him much, thought he wasn't very welcoming, but we liked the food and the price. Broad menu - hamburgers, steaks, chicken, pasta, etc. 6 entrees, 6 drinks, 2 desserts, $70. Pretty good food. Although the chicken breast was a little dry, the green curry was absolutely delicious.
5. Luxor - lunch at King's Arms Pub. The chicken in the chicken tikka was raw, what more can I say? Otherwise barely adequate, and honestly, I thought it smelled a stale - a combination of cigarettes, beer and grease. Also, the service was incredibly slow.
6. Luxor - dinner at Bombay. A little expensive (but that's by way of comparison to other local restaurants only). Food slightly above average. Friendly owner.
7. Sharm - Thai Chinese place upstairs on the wharf. Noone can remember the name. Food good, but my son thinks they all got sick there.
8. Sharm - also, there's an Italian restaurant on the main road through the old port, just before you get to the old market. Again, noone remembers the name, but it's a pretty good rendition of an American-style local Italian restaurant with good pizza and pasta. Reasonably priced (pizzas were a bargain).
TO BE CONTINUED (SIGHTSEEING AND LADY EGYPT AND DIVING REVIEW UP NEXT)...
1. Felfela - We ate several times at the felafel stand (not the adjacent restaurant)next to the Le Meridien. It was really good and really cheap (a felafel sandwich, freshly made, for 1 L.E.) I fed 5 people lunch (3 schwarma sandwiches, 3 felafel sandwiches, and 2 cans of Coke for less than $5.00).
2. Tex-Mex restaurant in the Le Meridien hotel - very very good. About $80 for 6 people, for 1 entree per person, 2 desserts for the table, and soft drinks and beer all around. I ate last night at a local Mexican restaurant here in California and decided to order the same tacos I had in Egypt for comparison purposes (I'm usually a tostada or chili relleno eater). Well, the ones in Egypt were far superior to the ones here (not that this local restaurant is so good, it isn't, but you'd really think they could do Tex-Mex in California better than in Cairo!).
3. Aswan - we had dinner at Aswan Moon (listed in Lonely Planet). According to our tour guide, all the restaurants on the river in Aswan are the same - they all serve the same thing and it's all the same quality. We only had one meal, so who knows? It was pretty good, though, canneloni, meatballs & rice, lamb kebabs and rice, soft drinks. 4 entrees, 5 soft drinks, $40. Ate outdoors on the roof, overlooking the Nile - nice setting.
4. Luxor - first night dinner at Dean's, owned by an Englishman. Didn't like him much, thought he wasn't very welcoming, but we liked the food and the price. Broad menu - hamburgers, steaks, chicken, pasta, etc. 6 entrees, 6 drinks, 2 desserts, $70. Pretty good food. Although the chicken breast was a little dry, the green curry was absolutely delicious.
5. Luxor - lunch at King's Arms Pub. The chicken in the chicken tikka was raw, what more can I say? Otherwise barely adequate, and honestly, I thought it smelled a stale - a combination of cigarettes, beer and grease. Also, the service was incredibly slow.
6. Luxor - dinner at Bombay. A little expensive (but that's by way of comparison to other local restaurants only). Food slightly above average. Friendly owner.
7. Sharm - Thai Chinese place upstairs on the wharf. Noone can remember the name. Food good, but my son thinks they all got sick there.
8. Sharm - also, there's an Italian restaurant on the main road through the old port, just before you get to the old market. Again, noone remembers the name, but it's a pretty good rendition of an American-style local Italian restaurant with good pizza and pasta. Reasonably priced (pizzas were a bargain).
TO BE CONTINUED (SIGHTSEEING AND LADY EGYPT AND DIVING REVIEW UP NEXT)...
Sep 9th, 2008, 08:02 PM
#6
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As an aside, Egyptian television (at least in the hotels) has more English language programming than anywhere else I've ever been (other than the US and UK, of course).
<i>Review of Lady Egypt:</i>
We planned this tour in a short period of time. The same day I started to plan my daughter broke her ankle, so we put the plans on hold because we weren't sure if she could come, and weren't sure if we wanted to leave her home alone (she's 21, but she had to be immobile for several months -- it was bad, surgery and all). I sent an email around to several operators mentioned on here, and Lady Egypt was the only one who responded. Since they got good reviews, I just proceeded with them. Mostly, they were very responsive to our requests - I thought in some cases they could have been more proactive in their suggestions, but I had done so much research (too much, honestly, sometimes I wish I could let it go....), I always knew the alternatives.
Anyway, we have never been on a tour before, always travel independently, once in awhile, but infrequently, we hire a local guide (Morocco, Lisbon). Also, we were two adults and 4 20-somethings, who I knew would freak out at the concept of a bus tour (honestly, the idea of a bus tour makes my skin crawl). So, I knew we wanted a private tour (we were skeptical even of that, but it worked out great). I planned the whole thing with Mohamed Kamel, by email...must have been about 70 emails back and forth, but it worked great, because you don't have to consider the time difference. I would write in the morning or evening, he'd respond during HIS working hours. Very efficient if you ask me. My parameters were: 1) High-end, but not super-luxurious, 2) private van, 3) English-speaking tour guide, 4) airport transfers, 5) breakfast to be included, and wanted to visit Cairo, Aswan and Luxor, maybe Abu Simbel (in the end, we skipped it), and one of the diving locations (Hurghada or Sharm).
The number one best thing about a private tour was the flexibility. We got to pick the time we started each day, and switch things around as we wanted, pick when and where we ate lunch, stop at the grocery for water, etc.
Lady Egypt on the ground was outstanding. Three of us missed our connection in Frankfurt, called them and they changed the pickup time. The other three had their flight cancelled from Addis Abbaba and arrived at 2:30 AM and Lady Egypt still picked them up and brought them to the hotel. They did everything - airport transfers (see below*), checked us into each hotel (and waited until we confirmed the room was okay) (the tour operator even checked us in for our flight from Luxor to Cairo), picked us up each morning for sightseeing, provided a van, driver and tour guide, and also had a tour representative meet with us in each city, etc. There were no glitches -- even when we had the one little problem with the front desk at the Luxor hotel, they were prepared to fix it (and emailed me that they had the appropriate paid voucher). Even in Sharm, where there were no tours after the first day, they still were picked up at the hotel and taken to the airport for their flight back to Cairo.
*When the divers flew from Luxor to Cairo to Sharm, they were picked up at one terminal Cairo and DRIVEN to the other terminal!
They were conscientious to a fault. I had some vitamins that I needed to get to someone in the "other" group. The tour guide took them from me and gave them to her when he next saw her. They checked on alternative flights for us. They made alternative hotel reservations. They stored bags for us. Just very accommodating. I guess I paid for it, but whatever, in the end it was absolutely worth it! (By the way, I have no idea what I would have paid had I booked the hotels, flights, trains, and sightseeing myself.)
So, Lady Egypt is highly recommended.
<i>Review of Lady Egypt:</i>
We planned this tour in a short period of time. The same day I started to plan my daughter broke her ankle, so we put the plans on hold because we weren't sure if she could come, and weren't sure if we wanted to leave her home alone (she's 21, but she had to be immobile for several months -- it was bad, surgery and all). I sent an email around to several operators mentioned on here, and Lady Egypt was the only one who responded. Since they got good reviews, I just proceeded with them. Mostly, they were very responsive to our requests - I thought in some cases they could have been more proactive in their suggestions, but I had done so much research (too much, honestly, sometimes I wish I could let it go....), I always knew the alternatives.
Anyway, we have never been on a tour before, always travel independently, once in awhile, but infrequently, we hire a local guide (Morocco, Lisbon). Also, we were two adults and 4 20-somethings, who I knew would freak out at the concept of a bus tour (honestly, the idea of a bus tour makes my skin crawl). So, I knew we wanted a private tour (we were skeptical even of that, but it worked out great). I planned the whole thing with Mohamed Kamel, by email...must have been about 70 emails back and forth, but it worked great, because you don't have to consider the time difference. I would write in the morning or evening, he'd respond during HIS working hours. Very efficient if you ask me. My parameters were: 1) High-end, but not super-luxurious, 2) private van, 3) English-speaking tour guide, 4) airport transfers, 5) breakfast to be included, and wanted to visit Cairo, Aswan and Luxor, maybe Abu Simbel (in the end, we skipped it), and one of the diving locations (Hurghada or Sharm).
The number one best thing about a private tour was the flexibility. We got to pick the time we started each day, and switch things around as we wanted, pick when and where we ate lunch, stop at the grocery for water, etc.
Lady Egypt on the ground was outstanding. Three of us missed our connection in Frankfurt, called them and they changed the pickup time. The other three had their flight cancelled from Addis Abbaba and arrived at 2:30 AM and Lady Egypt still picked them up and brought them to the hotel. They did everything - airport transfers (see below*), checked us into each hotel (and waited until we confirmed the room was okay) (the tour operator even checked us in for our flight from Luxor to Cairo), picked us up each morning for sightseeing, provided a van, driver and tour guide, and also had a tour representative meet with us in each city, etc. There were no glitches -- even when we had the one little problem with the front desk at the Luxor hotel, they were prepared to fix it (and emailed me that they had the appropriate paid voucher). Even in Sharm, where there were no tours after the first day, they still were picked up at the hotel and taken to the airport for their flight back to Cairo.
*When the divers flew from Luxor to Cairo to Sharm, they were picked up at one terminal Cairo and DRIVEN to the other terminal!
They were conscientious to a fault. I had some vitamins that I needed to get to someone in the "other" group. The tour guide took them from me and gave them to her when he next saw her. They checked on alternative flights for us. They made alternative hotel reservations. They stored bags for us. Just very accommodating. I guess I paid for it, but whatever, in the end it was absolutely worth it! (By the way, I have no idea what I would have paid had I booked the hotels, flights, trains, and sightseeing myself.)
So, Lady Egypt is highly recommended.
Sep 10th, 2008, 08:00 AM
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We are going to Egypt Feb 3rd 2009, we travel with Tauck, which is a wonderful tour group. We took our 21 year old daughter to Chinalast year on one of there tours and she loved it. (There were other kids her age too!) We have found that you get what you pay for! They do, do a wonderful tour. What I would like to know is, Did you get shots and which ones if any, I have spoken to some who did and then the ones who have said, since we are staying at the Mena House and Four Seasons and cruising the Nile, we shouldn't waste our time geting shots, Would love a response. We are so looking forward to this trip, glad yours was great.
Sep 10th, 2008, 08:50 AM
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I'll continue my report later, but just wanted to answer your question. We did not get shots. Only hepatitis shots are even on the "recommended" list (nothing is required, except for yellow fever, and that's only if you're coming from a country, not the US, that has had a yellow fever outbreak).
Sep 10th, 2008, 12:28 PM
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<i>The Train</i>
Thought I'd add to my report while I have a few minutes. We decided to take the sleeper train to Aswan in lieu of flying simply because the flight would have required us to leave our Cairo hotel by 5 a.m. In our family, if it's happening before 7 (really 9, but we could force ourselves up at 7 in an emergency!), it isn't happening! So despite my misgivings (but with MomLiz's account in hand), and because we love train travel in general, we opted for the train.
One thing we didn't take into consideration was the time we would have (to kill) between finishing our sightseeing for the day and leaving for the train station. LadyEgypt was good with that too, they took us to a small hotel they own so we could hang out, buy some provisions for the train, etc.
As we waited for our train at the Giza station with hordes of others (most of whom, it turned out, were not waiting for the sleeping train, but for the first-to-arrive sitting trains), we were aghast at the trains that went by. This was every Westerner's image of a third-world train --- old, rickety, no air conditioning, very crowded, people sitting, standing, hanging out the windows, etc. While I'd like to be able to say I'd be game to try it, I'd be totally lying. I was saying a prayer everytime one of those trains passed that it wasn't OUR train. And it wasn't. When the sleeper train finally arrived (late), it was perfectly nice. The cabins are for two, with a door to an adjoining cabin. So we took one room and the four kids took the two adjoining ones. Initially, the room is set up with seats. After they serve you dinner (more below), they come back to convert the seats to beds. The beds are very comfortable, the linens clean. If you're not a good sleeper (I can sleep anywhere!), you probably wouldn't like it, but we did, again, being lovers of train travel in general. Let's put it this way, we arrived in Aswan 3 hours late because we sat outside Cairo for 3 hours. We didn't know that, however, because we were fast asleep.
Train food: putrid. Some in the group ate the rice, I didn't even go that far. Fortunately, we had brought stuff from the supermarket. That was dinner. Breakfast consisted of four cellophane wrapped carbohydrates - a piece of bread, a roll, a croissant (if you could call it that) and a slice of pound cake. I decided to wait for lunch.
Bathrooms: this was my biggest fear. Everyone said the bathrooms get "nasty". Honestly, they weren't as bad as anticipated (there I go again). No worse than a cross between an outhouse and an airplane bathroom (and I would err on the side of airplane bathroom). I wouldn't walk in one in bare feet, but I wouldn't do that in an airplane bathroom either.
All in all, we quite enjoyed the experience.
Thought I'd add to my report while I have a few minutes. We decided to take the sleeper train to Aswan in lieu of flying simply because the flight would have required us to leave our Cairo hotel by 5 a.m. In our family, if it's happening before 7 (really 9, but we could force ourselves up at 7 in an emergency!), it isn't happening! So despite my misgivings (but with MomLiz's account in hand), and because we love train travel in general, we opted for the train.
One thing we didn't take into consideration was the time we would have (to kill) between finishing our sightseeing for the day and leaving for the train station. LadyEgypt was good with that too, they took us to a small hotel they own so we could hang out, buy some provisions for the train, etc.
As we waited for our train at the Giza station with hordes of others (most of whom, it turned out, were not waiting for the sleeping train, but for the first-to-arrive sitting trains), we were aghast at the trains that went by. This was every Westerner's image of a third-world train --- old, rickety, no air conditioning, very crowded, people sitting, standing, hanging out the windows, etc. While I'd like to be able to say I'd be game to try it, I'd be totally lying. I was saying a prayer everytime one of those trains passed that it wasn't OUR train. And it wasn't. When the sleeper train finally arrived (late), it was perfectly nice. The cabins are for two, with a door to an adjoining cabin. So we took one room and the four kids took the two adjoining ones. Initially, the room is set up with seats. After they serve you dinner (more below), they come back to convert the seats to beds. The beds are very comfortable, the linens clean. If you're not a good sleeper (I can sleep anywhere!), you probably wouldn't like it, but we did, again, being lovers of train travel in general. Let's put it this way, we arrived in Aswan 3 hours late because we sat outside Cairo for 3 hours. We didn't know that, however, because we were fast asleep.
Train food: putrid. Some in the group ate the rice, I didn't even go that far. Fortunately, we had brought stuff from the supermarket. That was dinner. Breakfast consisted of four cellophane wrapped carbohydrates - a piece of bread, a roll, a croissant (if you could call it that) and a slice of pound cake. I decided to wait for lunch.
Bathrooms: this was my biggest fear. Everyone said the bathrooms get "nasty". Honestly, they weren't as bad as anticipated (there I go again). No worse than a cross between an outhouse and an airplane bathroom (and I would err on the side of airplane bathroom). I wouldn't walk in one in bare feet, but I wouldn't do that in an airplane bathroom either.
All in all, we quite enjoyed the experience.
Sep 10th, 2008, 12:32 PM
#11
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Tipping I think I forgot to mention that LadyEgypt briefed us on tipping, and gave us the option of doing the tipping ourselves, or paying them a set amount ($30 per person) and they would take care of all tips --- hotels, drivers, porters, doormen, tour guides, everyone. We opted for the latter, because it seemed like a reasonable sum. IT WAS GREAT! In only one instance after that did a bellman expect a tip and we basically told him to bug off (and told our tour rep, who took care of it). Somehow, when you fork out the money in advance, you forget about it, which is fine by me (kind of like our time share, which is just a prepaid week in a condo in Palm Springs).
Sep 18th, 2008, 12:17 PM
#12
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Great trip report! Thanks. Just to let you know, hepatitis a vaccine and typhoid vaccine are recommended by the CDC for travel to Egypt. Both are food borne disease, and hepatitis a is an extremely effective vaccine. Many people get food borne diseases, esp. traveler's diarrhea, while traveling in Egypt. Cipro is good for this. This can happen even in the "nice" hotels--if someone who cuts your fruit or prepares your salad didn't wash their hands...it can affect your vacation. Glad you didn't get sick at least.
Sep 19th, 2008, 06:46 PM
#15
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The sights we saw (which are the same sights everyone sees when they're on a "highlights" trip):
On our first day, which was a free day, we took a taxi (at a negotiated rate) to Khan Al Khalili. It was a little early, so everything was just opening, but we love markets, so we enjoyed ourselves. One thing we couldn't get over, though, was the amount of trash in the middle of the main "street" - exactly where does it go?
In fact, this leads me to one of my questions about Egypt in general -- why is there so much construction rubble everywhere? And why do so many buildings have re-bar sticking out the top (is it like Mexico, where you don't get reassessed for property tax purposes until the building is "done", so it's never done?)?
We weren't really interested in shopping (for anything actually - the only thing we bought were some papyri - is that the plural of papyrus?) so we just wandered through the various parts of the market, both touristy and local. We love markets in general (after Egypt we were in London and did Petticoat Lane, Spitalfield's, Camden AND Portobello Road, and bought not a thing!) so this was fun. My favorite was the spice stores. If it weren't the first day of a nearly 3 week trip, I MIGHT have bought something.
After Khan Al Khalili, we took a taxi (again, negotiated rate, with a driver who spoke a little English and was happy to tell us what he could about the buildings and other things between the market and Cairo Tower). We went to Cairo Tower. When we got there, we were a little taken aback when the soldiers there started taking notes -- the cab number, license plate, etc. I guess it's another "let's make the tourists think they're safe here" thing. The tower did give a great view, but the view just isn't that great. My favorite thing was the woman in very fancy (pink silk) Muslim dress who asked to take her picture with me, so I asked to have the same picture taken with my camera with my new "friend". She spoke no English, I speak no Arabic, so we just did a lot of pointing and smiling.
After the tower, we walked over to the hotels by the river, did a little window shopping at the mall near the Ramses Hilton, then took a taxi back to our hotel.
Next morning, our tour rep. met us in the hotel lobby after breakfast and introduced us to our tour guide (who was with us in Cairo, Aswan and Luxor, and was excellent -- Mahmoud). We boarded the van and we were off to the Great Pyramid. Even though it was August, there were lots of tourists around, though not many Americans. Mostly Europeans on their August holidays and a lot of Japanese. I think I mentioned on another thread that although I took to heart the admonishment not to show "shoulders, breasts or knees", the rest of the world apparently didn't get the message. Our tour rep even told us that "everyone know we're tourists and noone cares what we wear", but I wore t-shirts and capris anyway (and who knew what all the Egyptians were muttering about the people who were less-than-respectfully attired?). We actually saw one young woman at the Great Pyramid in a bathing suit and see-through coverup.
Honestly, we were not as awed by the pyramids as we expected to be. We of course are amazed by the tales of their construction, and by the reasons they were built, and by the "finding" of all the antiquities, but it was a little surreal to us the way the city encroaches on the pyramids. I don't know, we just felt it would have been different if they were out in the desert somewhere, instead of <i>in</i> Cairo. Don't get me wrong, they're phenomenal, we just weren't awestruck.
After the Giza pyramids, two of the kids took a ride on a camel for 50 L.E. (about 10 USD), then we drove around to the Sphinx. Every single person in our group thought it was smaller than we expected it to be (that happened to me the first time I saw the Mona Lisa, too). But the worst thing about it is the Pizza Hut and KFC across the street! We just turned our backs, literally and figuratively, on the PH/KFC and ate lunch at Egyptian fast food - Felfala - instead
--BACK LATER--
On our first day, which was a free day, we took a taxi (at a negotiated rate) to Khan Al Khalili. It was a little early, so everything was just opening, but we love markets, so we enjoyed ourselves. One thing we couldn't get over, though, was the amount of trash in the middle of the main "street" - exactly where does it go?
In fact, this leads me to one of my questions about Egypt in general -- why is there so much construction rubble everywhere? And why do so many buildings have re-bar sticking out the top (is it like Mexico, where you don't get reassessed for property tax purposes until the building is "done", so it's never done?)?
We weren't really interested in shopping (for anything actually - the only thing we bought were some papyri - is that the plural of papyrus?) so we just wandered through the various parts of the market, both touristy and local. We love markets in general (after Egypt we were in London and did Petticoat Lane, Spitalfield's, Camden AND Portobello Road, and bought not a thing!) so this was fun. My favorite was the spice stores. If it weren't the first day of a nearly 3 week trip, I MIGHT have bought something.
After Khan Al Khalili, we took a taxi (again, negotiated rate, with a driver who spoke a little English and was happy to tell us what he could about the buildings and other things between the market and Cairo Tower). We went to Cairo Tower. When we got there, we were a little taken aback when the soldiers there started taking notes -- the cab number, license plate, etc. I guess it's another "let's make the tourists think they're safe here" thing. The tower did give a great view, but the view just isn't that great. My favorite thing was the woman in very fancy (pink silk) Muslim dress who asked to take her picture with me, so I asked to have the same picture taken with my camera with my new "friend". She spoke no English, I speak no Arabic, so we just did a lot of pointing and smiling.
After the tower, we walked over to the hotels by the river, did a little window shopping at the mall near the Ramses Hilton, then took a taxi back to our hotel.
Next morning, our tour rep. met us in the hotel lobby after breakfast and introduced us to our tour guide (who was with us in Cairo, Aswan and Luxor, and was excellent -- Mahmoud). We boarded the van and we were off to the Great Pyramid. Even though it was August, there were lots of tourists around, though not many Americans. Mostly Europeans on their August holidays and a lot of Japanese. I think I mentioned on another thread that although I took to heart the admonishment not to show "shoulders, breasts or knees", the rest of the world apparently didn't get the message. Our tour rep even told us that "everyone know we're tourists and noone cares what we wear", but I wore t-shirts and capris anyway (and who knew what all the Egyptians were muttering about the people who were less-than-respectfully attired?). We actually saw one young woman at the Great Pyramid in a bathing suit and see-through coverup.
Honestly, we were not as awed by the pyramids as we expected to be. We of course are amazed by the tales of their construction, and by the reasons they were built, and by the "finding" of all the antiquities, but it was a little surreal to us the way the city encroaches on the pyramids. I don't know, we just felt it would have been different if they were out in the desert somewhere, instead of <i>in</i> Cairo. Don't get me wrong, they're phenomenal, we just weren't awestruck.
After the Giza pyramids, two of the kids took a ride on a camel for 50 L.E. (about 10 USD), then we drove around to the Sphinx. Every single person in our group thought it was smaller than we expected it to be (that happened to me the first time I saw the Mona Lisa, too). But the worst thing about it is the Pizza Hut and KFC across the street! We just turned our backs, literally and figuratively, on the PH/KFC and ate lunch at Egyptian fast food - Felfala - instead
--BACK LATER--
Sep 20th, 2008, 07:22 AM
#16
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great report - just a couple of comments...
Regarding the buildings - you are right, no taxes are paid until a building or particular apartment or whatever is complete. I had Egyptian friends whose parents "owned" several apartments in buildings, but they only "completed" them as each child married. Some exceptions - buildings in the more popular expat areas are generally completed more quickly because the apartments are easily rented.
As for the pyramids - remember that at one time (not too long ago) - they WERE outside of Cairo. The city has just built out toward them. We loved the pyramids, but I have to admit that our favorite "view" of them was from the other side....when we would return from daytrips or camping out in the Fayoum area. You could see Cairo in the distance, but the area leading up to the Giza plateau was pretty bare. Much more scenic.
Regarding the buildings - you are right, no taxes are paid until a building or particular apartment or whatever is complete. I had Egyptian friends whose parents "owned" several apartments in buildings, but they only "completed" them as each child married. Some exceptions - buildings in the more popular expat areas are generally completed more quickly because the apartments are easily rented.
As for the pyramids - remember that at one time (not too long ago) - they WERE outside of Cairo. The city has just built out toward them. We loved the pyramids, but I have to admit that our favorite "view" of them was from the other side....when we would return from daytrips or camping out in the Fayoum area. You could see Cairo in the distance, but the area leading up to the Giza plateau was pretty bare. Much more scenic.
Sep 21st, 2008, 01:01 PM
#17
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Between football and golf, I'm couch-potatoing at the moment, so I'll catch up a little (is anyone still interested?)
Day 2:
We visited Coptic Cairo, the Citadel, Khan Al Khalili and the Egyptian Museum -- standard tourist route. We were all kind of entranced by the Hanging Church, partly for its history, partly for its religious artifacts, and partly for its design. It was funny when Mahmoud asked us questions about certain Christian religious things (4 in our group are Jewish, 2 Christian) and NOBODY could answer him -- just not a religious group, in fact pretty much the opposite. The Citadel was very interesting, especially the mosque, and especially because we had a tour guide with us to answer our endless questions! Things like - how old are those light fixtures? Do Muslim religious services include a sermon? Do they even have a "head guy" like a rabbi or priest -- all things we didn't know.
On to Khan Al Khalili, especially for the group that hadn't been with us on the earlier expedition there. Three of us had lunch at one of the cafes very near the entrance. Not sure if any of the cafes is actually owned separately, because it certainly seemed like all the food came out of one kitchen! We had a very good felafel plate (two of them, but we easily could have shared one) and a pizza. $20 for three.
The Egyptin Museum was as crowded as everyone has said, particularly on the first floor. And hot. Boy, that new museum is going to be welcomed! Of course, the collection is phenomenal. Not that you can't see some of it elsewhere -the British Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for two, but it's tremendous. We've seen the King Tut collection when it was on tour, but I don't think that was nearly as extensive as what's in the Egyptian museum. Also, the extent of the collection gave you a really decent idea of what day-to-day life/activities were like when you put all the "pieces" together.
After the museum, we went to a hotel owned by Lady Egypt to hang out until the train to Aswan, which I wrote about above.
On arrival to Aswan, we visited the dam. Again, very interesting as an engineering feat, and for what it did for the Nile Valley, but our visit to Hoover Dam near Las Vegas was better because you got to go <i>inside</i> the dam.
After the dam, we went to our first temple - Philae temple. The temples are high on our "awesome" list - all of them! It was great to have a tour guide not only to explain what they are, but to translate the hieroglyphics and, again, to answer OUR questions.
The rest of the afternoon was spent at the pool, the evening after dinner wandering around the Aswan market. The wares at the Aswan market are the same as everywhere else in Egypt but the market is a very different atmosphere. It's almost mall-like. The "streets" are tiled, it's well-lit, etc. We enjoyed it, especially since, as I said, we really aren't into buying, just looking (including the many many bottles of water we purchased while we were in Egypt, I doubt we spent $200USD combined
The next day, we were driven in the military convoy to Luxor. As I said, I'm not exactly clear on the purpose of the convoy. I know that because tourism was completely dead after the 1997 massacre that the government felt it needed to do something to bring tourists back, I'm just not sure the military convoy would be any more effective than all the metal detectors that don't seem to do anything. The lead truck was so far ahead of all the tourist vehicles, and so many cars cut in and out, that anybody could have done anything and brazenly. Not that we were at all concerned about our safety - we weren't, at all, during the entire trip.
First night in Luxor (we arrived at 5 p.m.) - gym, pool, walk, naps, dinner, internet cafe.
Day 2 in Luxor - early morning drive (this time we left at 7 a.m.)to Hatsepshut's Temple (again, we found the temples fascinating -- it was so hot, even our tour guide, who isn't allowed inside the temple with us anyway) waited in the cafe under a fan!). The whole area around Luxor is phenomenal as much for its archaeological history as its Egyptian history. We also did Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens in the morning. After that, we were debating what time to start the next morning, but we decided instead to take a break for lunch, and do the Temple of Karnak and Luxor Temple that afternoon/evening, leaving us a free day on Friday. It was a very good decision. Those temples are, I don't know if I can even come up with a superlative-enough adjective. The columns and obelisks at Karnak, I could go on and on. Those Egyptian kings certainly had some huge egos.
As an aside, I'm still so surprised by how many tourists there were in Egypt in August. We had no choice -since we were meeting our son and friends, who were "done" with their year in Uganda and were on their way home. But for anyone else, WHY would you go in August (Aswan and Luxor were around 108 deg. F)?
That night - what else? Luxor market. Everyone agreed they liked Aswan's better.
Next day, pool day (what a relief - let's put it this way...I do not swim, I know how, I'm just not a pool person. We have a swimming pool in our back yard that I have NEVER been in. So that gives you an idea how much I care about the pool, right? Well, in Luxor, I was definitely IN the pool and it was Luxor-ious, warm enough to walk right in without even a little "ooh". I loved it
Group 1 (my DH, son, his girlfriend, and their friend) left early that evening to fly to Sharm. My DD and I stayed overnight in Luxor, preparatory to flying to Cairo then to Madrid. I'll let my DH write about Mt. Sinai and Sharm.....
Day 2:
We visited Coptic Cairo, the Citadel, Khan Al Khalili and the Egyptian Museum -- standard tourist route. We were all kind of entranced by the Hanging Church, partly for its history, partly for its religious artifacts, and partly for its design. It was funny when Mahmoud asked us questions about certain Christian religious things (4 in our group are Jewish, 2 Christian) and NOBODY could answer him -- just not a religious group, in fact pretty much the opposite. The Citadel was very interesting, especially the mosque, and especially because we had a tour guide with us to answer our endless questions! Things like - how old are those light fixtures? Do Muslim religious services include a sermon? Do they even have a "head guy" like a rabbi or priest -- all things we didn't know.
On to Khan Al Khalili, especially for the group that hadn't been with us on the earlier expedition there. Three of us had lunch at one of the cafes very near the entrance. Not sure if any of the cafes is actually owned separately, because it certainly seemed like all the food came out of one kitchen! We had a very good felafel plate (two of them, but we easily could have shared one) and a pizza. $20 for three.
The Egyptin Museum was as crowded as everyone has said, particularly on the first floor. And hot. Boy, that new museum is going to be welcomed! Of course, the collection is phenomenal. Not that you can't see some of it elsewhere -the British Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for two, but it's tremendous. We've seen the King Tut collection when it was on tour, but I don't think that was nearly as extensive as what's in the Egyptian museum. Also, the extent of the collection gave you a really decent idea of what day-to-day life/activities were like when you put all the "pieces" together.
After the museum, we went to a hotel owned by Lady Egypt to hang out until the train to Aswan, which I wrote about above.
On arrival to Aswan, we visited the dam. Again, very interesting as an engineering feat, and for what it did for the Nile Valley, but our visit to Hoover Dam near Las Vegas was better because you got to go <i>inside</i> the dam.
After the dam, we went to our first temple - Philae temple. The temples are high on our "awesome" list - all of them! It was great to have a tour guide not only to explain what they are, but to translate the hieroglyphics and, again, to answer OUR questions.
The rest of the afternoon was spent at the pool, the evening after dinner wandering around the Aswan market. The wares at the Aswan market are the same as everywhere else in Egypt but the market is a very different atmosphere. It's almost mall-like. The "streets" are tiled, it's well-lit, etc. We enjoyed it, especially since, as I said, we really aren't into buying, just looking (including the many many bottles of water we purchased while we were in Egypt, I doubt we spent $200USD combined
The next day, we were driven in the military convoy to Luxor. As I said, I'm not exactly clear on the purpose of the convoy. I know that because tourism was completely dead after the 1997 massacre that the government felt it needed to do something to bring tourists back, I'm just not sure the military convoy would be any more effective than all the metal detectors that don't seem to do anything. The lead truck was so far ahead of all the tourist vehicles, and so many cars cut in and out, that anybody could have done anything and brazenly. Not that we were at all concerned about our safety - we weren't, at all, during the entire trip.
First night in Luxor (we arrived at 5 p.m.) - gym, pool, walk, naps, dinner, internet cafe.
Day 2 in Luxor - early morning drive (this time we left at 7 a.m.)to Hatsepshut's Temple (again, we found the temples fascinating -- it was so hot, even our tour guide, who isn't allowed inside the temple with us anyway) waited in the cafe under a fan!). The whole area around Luxor is phenomenal as much for its archaeological history as its Egyptian history. We also did Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens in the morning. After that, we were debating what time to start the next morning, but we decided instead to take a break for lunch, and do the Temple of Karnak and Luxor Temple that afternoon/evening, leaving us a free day on Friday. It was a very good decision. Those temples are, I don't know if I can even come up with a superlative-enough adjective. The columns and obelisks at Karnak, I could go on and on. Those Egyptian kings certainly had some huge egos.
As an aside, I'm still so surprised by how many tourists there were in Egypt in August. We had no choice -since we were meeting our son and friends, who were "done" with their year in Uganda and were on their way home. But for anyone else, WHY would you go in August (Aswan and Luxor were around 108 deg. F)?
That night - what else? Luxor market. Everyone agreed they liked Aswan's better.
Next day, pool day (what a relief - let's put it this way...I do not swim, I know how, I'm just not a pool person. We have a swimming pool in our back yard that I have NEVER been in. So that gives you an idea how much I care about the pool, right? Well, in Luxor, I was definitely IN the pool and it was Luxor-ious, warm enough to walk right in without even a little "ooh". I loved it
Group 1 (my DH, son, his girlfriend, and their friend) left early that evening to fly to Sharm. My DD and I stayed overnight in Luxor, preparatory to flying to Cairo then to Madrid. I'll let my DH write about Mt. Sinai and Sharm.....
Sep 21st, 2008, 04:55 PM
#18
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dmlove - I enjoyed your thorough trip report. It's especially great to read about a country I am visiting soon. I can't wait to go!
Thanks for all the information. I know I will put lots of it to good use.
Thanks for all the information. I know I will put lots of it to good use.
Sep 24th, 2008, 02:08 PM
#19
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I just remembered something I should add, since I was curious about it before we left home. I wondered if the tour guide would eat meals with us, who would pay, etc. Everyone suggested just seeing how it played out. So the first day, we stopped at the Felfela place I mentioned, and when we got out of the car, and he didn't, I asked if I could bring him (and the driver) something, and they both politely turned me down. The same thing happened with the tour representative the last day in Cairo. Likewise, when we went to sites, and stopped for a drink, he always purchased his own. So, while this may or may not be the "norm", it was consistently our experience.
I'll still be back, when I can corral my husband regarding the Red Sea portion of their trip.
I'll still be back, when I can corral my husband regarding the Red Sea portion of their trip.
Sep 25th, 2008, 05:41 AM
#20
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Yes please! I am going to Egypt in November and will be ending the trip with Sharm and Mt. Sinai. I have noticed there has not been much write up on the Red Sea area so I would appreciate whatever comments I can get!
Thank you so much for taking the time to write out such a lovely trip report. I too have been curious about the arrangement of eating with the guide so I appreciate you including comments on that!
Thank you so much for taking the time to write out such a lovely trip report. I too have been curious about the arrangement of eating with the guide so I appreciate you including comments on that!
