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Old Apr 17th, 2009, 11:57 PM
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1st Safari - can go anywhere, anytime of the year

I need some ideas to start planning our first safari (and first trip to Africa). I spent some time looking a few months ago but got overwhelmed and decided to delay this trip until sometime between April 2010 to April 2011. We can go for up to 3 weeks, anytime of the year. Guidance seems to be geared toward where to go if you have to travel a certain month, or where to go if you are looking for certain wildlife (we aren't). But what are some of the best options if you can go anywhere, anytime?

We travel every year and I'm sure this won't be our only trip to Africa. We are 42 and 50 years old. I remember from my reading a few months ago that lodging/safaris can be quite costly. We aren't into luxury lodging for their sake at all, but willing to pay for unique and special wildlife viewing opportunities and areas. I'd like to spend $12,000 or less excluding airfare (we have many FFmiles we can try to use). Seeing the gorillas for part of the trip was an idea but can be saved for a future trip. Botswana also sounds special. What are some recommended options I should investigate if we can go anytime of the year?
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 07:02 AM
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Hi WayUpNorth

There's a nice table showing When is the best time for safari & Where.
<b>atravelynn</b> i'm sure you have the link!

meanwhile
read reports from LyndaS's
<red><i>NEW</red> EAST AFRICA Trip Report Index</i>
http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...0&tid=34860283

as for the migration time in east africa:
(from mid July)August to mid October in Mara Kenya
from mid Feb to March calving in Serengeti
April=May in central/ south Serengeti
later on in northern Serengeti

aby
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 07:11 AM
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A. OK i just found that chart
http://www.africa-adventure.com/best_time_to_go

B. check this thread for Bots
"<i>When is the best time ... Botswana?<i>"
http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...e-botswana.cfm

C. use the "Search" Box

aby
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 10:04 AM
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How far nort’ up der are ya, eh? Maybe we are almost neighbors.

How very exciting you have such flexibility in your dates and destinations. Even more exciting that you recognize you may be returning to Africa again in the future. That means you can concentrate more on one area and will not feel it is imperative to criss-cross the continent to cram it all in during a once in a lifetime trip.

You are right about the investigation being overwhelming. It’s similar to someone from Africa coming to the US for 3 weeks.

Aby found the link.

Since you mentioned gorillas, here is why I would recommend including these amazing creatures on your first trip.

-The permits are now $500 for a one hour viewing session in either Uganda or Rwanda. (I know it’s crazy expensive!) But they may increase to $1000. There were rumors of that but the poor economy has put that on hold. When things return to normal, I would think the increase would occur so if you can go before that time, that is a big savings.

-The hike up the mountain can be strenuous and you want to do that while you are in good shape. I’m in your age category and am following that advice by going this August for what will likely be my last gorilla-centered trip. (Though I’ve trekked with people in their upper 70s.)

-If you become so enchanted with these primates that you want to see them again, you can do so while you are still in good shape and also include some less visited destinations in Rwanda/Uganda on another trip. That describes my situation.

-Gorilla permits can be hard to obtain for specific dates. Your flexibility now means you’ll have no problems securing permits and the rest of your trip can be built around the gorilla permit dates. On a future trip, you may have less flexibility, meaning permits could be harder to obtain for a narrow range of dates.

When group bookings tie up whole blocks of permits for a couple days in a row, it can be hard to squeeze in. Only 8 people can visit a gorilla group at one time. Between Uganda and Rwanda, there are maybe 10 or even fewer habituated groups for the whole world to see. That doesn’t include the DRC gorillas, but not many people are going there now.

-In about June of 2008 I was told that almost every permit had been sold through Sept of 2008. Those are some of the best months to go due to less rain.

-Rwanda & Uganda combines well with Kenya and/or Tanzania logistically, and Kenya & Tanzania are typical first safari destinations. They were my first trip, but I’ve been back to each since and plan to return again.

If this sounds appealing: a safari with gorillas, the wildebeest migration, a great variety of other animals, saving some money by using some lodges over luxury tented camps, having mostly a private trip for the two of you...here is what I’d recommend:

2010 Early Sept departure—fares go down a bit in Sept, slightly fewer people than August, the big European vacation month, and US schools are back in session. Great time for migration in Kenya. Well into the dry season so animals congregate around the remaining water sources. Early Sept, still pretty dry for gorilla tracking, though it can rain anytime in a rain forest. Gorillas are up front so you can complete the strenuous part of the trip first and not sit around for a few weeks, losing the benefits of fitness training in preparation for the trek. Usually more wildes flow into the Mara as Sept. progresses.

1 Arrive NBO

2 Day in NBO to recoup and as a buffer in case of delays—Karen Blixen museum, Sheldrick Elephant Orphange, National Museum, etc.

3 Fly to Kigali, Rwanda and drive to Volcanoes National Park—wide variety of accommodations

4 Gorilla trip 1

5 Gorilla trip 2 and back to Kigali for overnight

6 Fly to Tanzania--if it is possible to visit the Never Again Memorial in Kigali during your trip, that is extremely moving.

7 Arusha National Park, you can walk and canoe here, forest habitat, colobus monkeys (not always included in itineraries and would not have to be in yours)

8-9 Tarangire, great ele population, Baobab trees are a sight, 2 nights

10-11 2 Ngorongoro Crater, 2 nts World Heritage site, huge concentration of animals, I like Sopa Lodge for its own access road. 2 nights allows for one full day in crater—some people spend 1 night and do a half day trip.

12 Back to NBO I skipped the Serengeti since you did not mention it and the animals will be migrating from it into the Maasai Mara in Kenya. I did something similar on my last Tanzania & Kenya trip--skipping Serengeti in August, you'll be there Sept.

13 Fly to Samburu/Laikipia 2 nights—Unique species here, which are usually seen, including Grevy Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, Beisa Oryx Antelope, Gerenuk Antelope

14-15 (a)either drive to a place in Mt. Kenya and stay at one of many accommodations with a floodlit waterhole, then on to Nakuru the next night where there are lots of rhinos and flamingos and then drive 6 hours to Mara or fly (b) spend both nights in Mt. Kenya with the floodlit water hole and fly to Mara (c) do 3 nights in Samburu/Laikipia and/or nearby Shaba. which is a little more remote, great scenery, less habituated animals and fly to Mara and spend 5 nights not 4 in the Mara, maybe at 2 locations.
(Longer stays in the Mara are typical for people who really like wildlife, especially late in the dry season. I do that. 3 nights is the min I'd accept in the Mara, 4 is a well designed itinerary, 2 indicates a poor itinerary, and over 4 is a real treat)

16-19 Maasai Mara—I’d recommend a tented camp in the western part if that is within your budget
(Longer stays in the Mara are typical for people who really like wildlife, especially late in the dry season. I do that. 3 nights is the min I'd accept in the Mara, 4 is a well designed itinerary, 2 indicates a poor itinerary, and over 4 is a real treat)

There would be opportunities for cultural interactions such as Maasai visits, Samburu visits, Samburu-led camel rides, etc.

Drive or fly back to NBO for your eve flight home.

You could also visit the gorillas, then head to Botswana. For cost purposes, I’d suggest a mobile. A variety of companies do them. I went with Wilderness once. Also CCAFrica, Masson, Capricorn, and others. US nature/adventure companies such as Natural Habitat, Wilderness Travel (not the same as Wilderness in Botswana), Sobek have some too.

They are very comfortable and safe and provide an exciting way to move around and see wildlife. There does not seem to be as many cultural opportunities in Botswana because you tend to be in more remote areas with fewer people.

Sept would be a good time in Botswana too, though I’ve had great viewing in July and August as well.

Good luck in your planning and keep us posted as your trip takes shape.
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 10:41 AM
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$6K per person might be a bit tight for 3/weeks ($285/person/nt*), especially if covering Rwanda, Tanzania and Kenya, considering the flights between these countries.

*considering that daily park fees, Kenya or Tanzania, can range from $40-$100/person/nt, doesn't leave much for a room/tent.

I'd decide when, and choose no more than two countries and get some preliminary quotes based on current prices to see what is possible. With the economy in the dumps, it's possible that the usual 10-18% annual increases in room rates will be put on hold thru 2010.

Read thru LyndaS' East African Trip Report Index and pick-up a copy of Fodor's Complete Safari Planning Guide for helpful information.
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 02:54 PM
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For my wish list.
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 03:07 PM
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I was thinking same, $285 per person per night is eliminating better safari camps ($6K for 3 weeks). Might be better to do 15 days at then $400 pppn. (Still will be tight). And do two countries. Kenya and Botswana. That's my master plan, others can fill out the details

regards - tom
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 05:12 PM
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hi

if camping is an option, you may take a camping tour that would let you "upgrade" the rest of your stay
e.g. 8 Days- Turkana Truck via Chalbi Desert
http://www.gametrackersafaris.com/ke...kers-gtc-2.php
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 06:56 PM
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WayupNorth,

It's a huge myth, that most expensive directly translates into "Better". Everyone has their own definition of either, "good, better or best". You have to determine what suits your needs.

That said, you do mention game viewing - you do need to do your research to ensure that you pick the places that suits your needs - be it gameviewing, level of comfort etc etc.,

Happy planning - this is going to be a fun part for you, to do the research and then make your plans.

Regards,
Hari
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 07:07 PM
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Your lack of limits in month of travel and in destinations had me so enthused that I misread your actual limits as a per person amount when it is the total.

I’d still try to do the gorillas, costly as it is.

Check out the prices on some of these to give you a general idea of costs for a private safari. These would be less expensive than some options.

http://www.goodearthtours.com/Kenya/index.html

http://www.goodearthtours.com/Uganda/index.html

http://www.essafari.co.ke/essk013.htm

Here is one of the small group mobiles to Botswana

http://www.capricornsafaris.com/safaris.html
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 07:09 PM
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Lynn,

My post above had nothing to do with yours - no offense, please.
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 07:32 PM
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None taken Hari! My 11:07 post had nothing to do with your 10:56 one.
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 09:03 PM
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Great..... Thanks!!!
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Old Apr 18th, 2009, 09:54 PM
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Thanks for the input! Our budget is flexible, and we are certainly willing to spend for the gorilla trek. Like many of you I'm sure, we don't care about marble bathrooms and TV. And I don't mind shared bathrooms for part of the trip. But want to be able to get a decent nights sleep. The tented rooms do look charming. And they make ne want to look into camping options and the link Aby posted, in order to upgrade to tented camps for other parts of the trip. What are the negatives for such a camping trip? I do need to research level of comfort at the various price points. Sept does look good for East Africa according to the wildlife viewing chart. I'm certainly leaning towards gorillas and East Africa in September 2010. I have a lot of reading and surfing to do. We live in Montana!
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Old Apr 19th, 2009, 03:33 AM
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HariS is correct, my using a $400 or $285 cost way too simplifies the answer. I've had great safaris for half that $285 in Kruger National Park. And I'm sure you could have great safaris for half that again. True, expensive does not mean better (if you don't already know that).

Advising about first safari is perhaps like advising someone on buying a car/vehicle. Or, advising someone who has never -driven- a car would be closer to it!!!

regards - tom
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Old Apr 19th, 2009, 10:08 AM
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You are no stranger to beauty in nature if you are from Montana! Those hikes up the mountain for gorillas may not even be very strenuous for you either.

“What are the negatives for such a camping trip?”

I’d find out how many people are on each departure and the method you use for transportation. Is it a big truck where you all pile in the back or Land Rovers/Cruisers or minivans? Do you all get a window? I’d ask the age of typical participants.

I’d ask for approx. transport time from place to place. That’s a good idea with any itinerary, especially a driving one.

I’m not sure what the tents are like, but other group camping that I’ve done in Africa had nice tents whether pup tents or 9 x 12. The food has always been fine to outstanding but you could ask about that. Ask if this is a participation style trip where you help buy food, cook it, and set up tents. There are pros and cons to that kind of trip, depending on your expectations.

Other negatives, since you asked, are those that would pertain to any type of group travel. You cannot design your own itinerary* and you don’t know who your travel partners will be and what they want from the trip. If photography is very important to you, this setup may be frustrating. If you want nice photos like everybody brings back from safari, this should be fine.

I’d ask where the camp locations will be. Is it in group campsites that might be crowded and loud? If you are in remote areas, then that can be an advantage where you are paying less but getting more remoteness and seclusion.

On the other hand, you don't want to be so remote and secluded that you are way outside the park where there isn't much wildlife. Sometimes outside or inside the park is no big deal because without fenced boundaries the animals don't know or care. You also want to be sure that all the park fees are paid to include visits into all these parks. I noticed park fees were listed as part of the pricing. I'd ask for specifics and a breakdown of park fees.

It also appears they do lodge safaris too that aren’t camping.

The more you are into a general Africa experience and an overall adventure, the more I’d recommend group camping in East Africa. The more you are into photography, prolonged observation of wildlife, birding, and accommodations that are memorable for what they offer inside, the less I’d recommend a group camping trip in East Africa.

* Maybe Gametrackers does do private trips and that might be something you investigate.

One advantage of a trip like this is you can go places with a group that might not be feasible alone due to costs, such as Lake Turkana. Some of the listed prices were very reasonable!
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Old Apr 20th, 2009, 10:01 AM
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Some really good replies already on this thread. I hope you've been convinced to visit the gorillas in Rwanda! Lynn's first reply basically covers all the same reasons I would give you for doing that.

I had a friend recently ask me "If I only went to Africa once in my life, where should I go and what should I do?" A little tough for me to answer, since I've only been to 4 African countries on 2 trips, and am certainly no expert on the entire continent. (I think it's great that you are already thinking in terms of this not being the One and Only Africa Trip!). But, my suggestion to her was Kenya (especially the Masai Mara for the migration) plus Rwanda gorilla-trekking in September. I like Lynn's original itinerary suggestion, perhaps minus the Tanzania part if you need to keep the cost lower. If you are interested in having a "vacation from the vacation" to relax for a few days at the end of your trip, Zanzibar is a beautiful place with cute monkeys and interesting Swahili culture. I know some folks think beach days are a "waste" in Africa, but Zanzibar was not like any beach destination I've been to before, and it was a way to enjoy a different side of African culture at a fraction of the cost of the safari days.
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Old Apr 20th, 2009, 03:37 PM
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MDK, your comment: "but Zanzibar was not like any beach destination I've been to before" saddens me because now I might have to go there which would reduce my safari days on some upcoming trip at an unknown future date and I like my safari days.

Rwanda for gorillas and Maasai Mara--a winning combo if you are really starting to pare it down to keep it reasonably affordable.
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Old Apr 20th, 2009, 08:21 PM
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The gorillas in Rwanda are a go! We are not getting any younger LOL, and I have a feeling now is the time to go. Zanzibar sounds intriging, and we might need a vacation from the vacation with the gorilla treking and if we spend some of the time with a cheaper camping option. It's so far and expensive to fly to Africa, I'm tempted to keep the trip at 3 weeks to make it worth it in my mind. The camping sounds exciting, and kind of scary! Maybe then upgrade accomodations at Maasia Mara. The culture aspect of the trip appeals to me also.
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Old Apr 20th, 2009, 08:56 PM
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As someone who lives in California and has family in Hawaii, I've seen my fair share of beautiful beaches. But before I went to Zanzibar, I had never experienced a beach vacation like this: walking around the winding alleys of Stone Town where kids were drumming in the streets and men were setting up for the night market during Ramadan... listening to taarab music while sitting on a carpet on the rooftop of my hotel and eating Swahili food... hiking through the forest to find red colobus monkeys leaping through the trees and running right past us... strolling out onto the sand bar off Pongwe Beach at low tide to watch women harvesting seaweed... eating kuku wakupaka (a marvelous Swahili chicken dish) on the beach by candlelight. WayUpNorth, if you are interested in African culture, it's a fascinating place to kick back at the end of your trip, and there's lots to explore. And Lynn, how is it possible that there's a place I've been to that you haven't (yet!)?? We love our safari days too, but we thought Zanzibar was well worth the time, and I'd love to return someday.
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