|
Great TR, so glad I found it. We had planned a very similar itinerary, but a couple weeks into our trip the electronics ban happened (yes, we were to fly Air Morocco from NYC to Casablanca), and we canceled the entire trip. I can’t imagine traveling to Morocco without a camera and any change of flights was impossible. Someday we will get there, it really looks gorgeous.
For what we had planned we only had 14 days (including the flights), and a self drive. We’ll definitely get a driver if/when we go, and I’ll remember your words: “if I were forced to make a choice, say, between Essaouira and Chefchaouen, I can now say it's a no-brainer - Essaouira wins by a mile.” I think our plans included 1 night in each – the blues of Chefchaouen are really unique it seems. Love all your pictures, but the one of you and the ancient columns is really special! Great angle. And the ones in Fes with all the arches and gates. Regarding the driver, how does that work? Do you pay for his accommodation and meals? Or you’re paying a set fee for his services and he deals with his accommodation and meals on his own? Were your ryads your choices, or part of the package? About the hustlers in the cities: would you advise having a guide inside the city all the time, so he can help with it? We like to do things on our own at our own pace, but constant harassing like this would bother me. Was this a problem only in cities (Fes, Marrakesh) or everywhere? I remember a “No, thank you” was enough in Istanbul a few years ago. Never a problem there. Dar Seffarine, wow! I really have no words for that suite. I think we had only planned dinner there, but I’ll try to stay there when we go. WOW!!! In retrospect, if you were to do this again, would you spend more/less time in any of the places? Would you do anything differently? Thanks. |
<<Regarding the driver, how does that work? Do you pay for his accommodation and meals? Or you’re paying a set fee for his services and he deals with his accommodation and meals on his own? Were your ryads your choices, or part of the package? >>
When I researched last year, I found it difficult to find an agency that would provide a driver only; generally speaking, the companies arrange the bookings for hotels and driver, but only of the hotels that they have a relationship with. The more known places had no flexibility in their policy (like Journey Beyond Travel, Morocco Expert tours) but I found an agent, Berbers Space Morocco, who worked with me so I reserved a few places on my own. For instance, Dar Seffarine was a MUST for me. In general, it worked for me, as I wasn't wedded to other places, and the choices were good enough. I loved our riad in Chefchaouen; I probably would've chosen elsewhere for other places, but he did give me choices in each location. There were a few names I saw listed on the travel boards for drivers, but these were from old reports (on TA, I think) and I was hesitant to contact an individual without any real presence on the internet. I know folks have self-driven, and not found it a problem. I simply wanted to have a driver because I wanted to cover a large territory in a relatively short period of time, and didn't want to be hassling in and out of cities. As it turned out, the driver provided for us was much more than "just" a driver, and as I've mentioned multiple times, Salem is a gem and has his own company, Moroccan Family, https://moroccan-family.com/, who I'd work with again in a heartbeat. As far as having a guide all the time in the city, well, for me that would be too much. We also like to have our time to ourselves, and having a guide constantly would've felt weird to us. I do think one needs to have a very thick skin and just push on in dealing with the hustle. Being as mentally prepared as you can and just be aware how persistent the touts and others can be. I don't know the secret, though. As far as I'm aware, Dar Seffarine serves meals for their patrons, only. They don't have a restaurant. We ate there 2 out of the 3 nights and the food was excellent and the comraderie was delightful. <<In retrospect, if you were to do this again, would you spend more/less time in any of the places? Would you do anything differently? Thanks.>> This is a hard question; I'm still not sure what I would do differently. I probably would try to add a few days -- so I could restructure our trip a little bit differently. 1) stay 2 nights in the Dades Gorges area and do a walk into the villages in the mountains. I would eliminate Ourzazate. 2) stay 1 night in Casablanca to see the mosque 3) add at least one night to Essaouira 4) break up the trip from Fes to Merzouga somewhere 5) stay in a mountain inn/guest house somewhere in a mountain village I don't know if I'd eliminate Chefchaouen or not, but this thought came to me last night: Chefchaouen is very much a tourist destination because of its blue walls. It's very pretty and it's definitely more relaxed than the larger cities, such as Fes or Marrakech -- BUT when you're there, the walls are still the walls, just painted blue! It's the photos AFTER the trip that make it so memorable! And yes, it's easy to take great photos in Chefchaouen!! There is one spot (I'm on the steps) where you have to wait your turn to take a photograph! It's a pleasant enough place to be, and walking around the medina is more relaxing than other places, but essentially, its all about the look of the town. I think I've answered the questions -- let me know if you want more info! And tp, I do agree, travel is all about impressions, which can vary a lot. |
Such wonderful photos. Making me sorry we turned down the camel rides at Kasbah Amridil which I thought a great site.
Adding my 2cents, TP -- I think that you can definitely plan a trip with hiking as a focus. A few years back I had looked into that for another potential trip to Morocco that we never took. There are quite a few places you can stay that would provide you with opportunities for exploration and hiking. I agree that spending less time in Fes & Marrakech would lessen the hassle factor. However we prefered Marrakech to Fes as we thought there were more interesting sites to see. (We were 7 days in Fes & 6 days in Marrekach) Interestingly we started in Marrakech and Fes came 2.5 weeks in our trip. Marrakech was different and exciting to us. By the time we got to Fes we had seen alot and felt very comfortable with the country and familar with what we saw. Progol saw Fes earlier in her trip and ended in Marrakech. Wonder if timing makes a difference on one's perspective? In any case, they are both worth visiting. Also agree that Essaouria is worth a stop. We went south from there which also had fascinating lanscapes. |
Originally Posted by yestravel
(Post 16758946)
Such wonderful photos. Making me sorry we turned down the camel rides at Kasbah Amridil which I thought a great site.
I agree that spending less time in Fes & Marrakech would lessen the hassle factor. However we prefered Marrakech to Fes as we thought there were more interesting sites to see. (We were 7 days in Fes & 6 days in Marrekach) Interestingly we started in Marrakech and Fes came 2.5 weeks in our trip. Marrakech was different and exciting to us. By the time we got to Fes we had seen alot and felt very comfortable with the country and familar with what we saw. Progol saw Fes earlier in her trip and ended in Marrakech. Wonder if timing makes a difference on one's perspective? In any case, they are both worth visiting. Also agree that Essaouria is worth a stop. We went south from there which also had fascinating lanscapes. yestravel, it was fun & amusing to take the camel ride, but I don't think you missed much! |
Great photos and itinerary that you followed, I'm glad you enjoyed it! thanks for sharing
|
Thanks, soufmargh! I'm glad you're enjoying the trip! It's taking me a lot longer to finish the trip than it did to actually travel!
|
And we continued on to Ourzazate. One of the treats of this trip was meeting up with yestravel and gotravel, who were traveling in Morocco at the same time. We had been in touch prior to and during our trip trying to coordinate, but it seemed that we were just missing each other and would probably be passing each other on the road. They were leaving Marrakech and on their way to the desert just before we were to arrive in Marrakech. Darn, our mini-GTG seemed to be a bust! But yestravel came up with the good idea to put our drivers in touch with one another --- yes, I’ll have my driver talk with your driver --- and they were able to coordinate our visit and we met up for lunch in Ourzazate.
After saying our goodbyes, we remained in Ourzazate. Not one of the places that stands out on our trip, but we made a stop at the Musee du Cinema; Lonely Planet calls it a “small, dusty cinema museum” which is “housed in a former studio and exhibits a collection of old sets, props and cinematic equipment.” It was an okay stop, but not a place I’d go out of my way to visit. There were numerous rooms with sets of different kinds, and I can imagine kids would have fun going through them. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...704d7e7f36.jpg Yes, lots of old props! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e88d7c764.jpg I got a kick out of the large candelabra just sitting in the walkway The best moments were in the parking lot – Michael plays old time (Appalachian)banjo music and enjoyed listening to a local man playing a banjo-like instrument. He graciously let Michael take his banjo, and here, Berber meets old-time, and we have a Moroccan hoe-down! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00892d813d.jpg Berber meets old-time! We stayed that night at Riad Tama, just outside of the city center. It’s one of the higher rated hotels in Ourzazate; it was comfortable, but a large hotel suited more for large groups and was good for one night, but not memorable. Mediocre food, but wonderful view of the oasis and the Atlas Mountains. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c15d999157.jpg |
And today, we are on our way to Marrakech (but not by the Marrakech Express ;))! But we made several stops along the way, including a drive through the High Atlas mountains before arriving at our final stop of the day.
Ait Ben Haddou is one of the more popular kasbahs to visit. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage sight that’s been used in many film sets. Given its popularity, its no surprise that there are vendors lining the streets. I was prepared to dislike it but we really enjoyed the visit. It’s wonderfully situated and the traditional mud architecture has been well maintained. And it wasn’t nearly as crowded as I had expected. First, we stopped at a viewpoint, admiring Ait Ben Haddou from the distance: And we take a shot of the remarkable view https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...51cbd0771e.jpg And another shot, a minute later.... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d30b306dab.jpg We crossed a bridge over a small river to get to the kasbah, and then walked through the small streets and up the hill, filled with shops and others, and stopping and admiring the views along the way. Approaching the kasbah https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcd1476098.jpg The small streets https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6804de870f.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9d85b27a4.jpg Views from the kasbah as we walk up the hill https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfa585c54d.jpg It is a long walk up the hill https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14fab9e66d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95d30db994.jpg We could see that there was something being filmed below with many horses being raced back and forth - we never did find out what it was, but it was interesting to watch from above https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e222692cb1.jpg And onward he goes.. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d22f9b77f9.jpg |
And there is definitely a theme that goes through our trip...
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...54a2696af1.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b6a36c7714.jpg Though this interlude didn't exactly bring the clapping crowds! |
The weather changed rapidly between sunny skies and ominous clouds, with occasional showers. And the topography gradually changed as we got closer to the High Atlas mountains.
Not sure who these men were or where they were going, but we passed them along the road. You never know who or what you're going to see! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...756162a893.jpg A few more views of the wonderful mud brick architecture https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2587f4b0b3.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7012b8d29b.jpg Old and new, side by side https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64411829bd.jpg The Berbers used to produce a lot of salt from the High Atlas mountains; Salem took us off the highway, onto a small dirt road, to show us a site of an old salt deposit https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13353f2e42.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fccc3a11bf.jpg Along the road https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...799b5bc104.jpg |
<<But yestravel came up with the good idea to put our drivers in touch with one another --- yes, I’ll have my driver talk with your driver --- and they were able to coordinate our visit and we met up for lunch in Ourzazate.>>
lol. Yet more lovely photos - I love that one of you taken through the window but they are all good and really capture the places you are in. And how nice to see the Travels even though it was only for lunch. |
Well, I'm running out of adjectives to describe your photos! I love revisiting our trip through yours.;) But again a miss for us, Kasbah Telouet. We passed on it which from your photos was a mistake. I'd say "next trip" but that's not happening! Yes, it was fun to be able to have a lunch GTG. Glad that worked out.
|
A GTG in the middle of Morocco - that's priceless!
|
Hi, all! I’m,glad there are still some followers here! The 2-week trip has now become 2-month trip report!
annhig, thanks for the lovely words about the photos. I must admit I also like that one of me from the window - it’s always a surprise when I get one I really like. And catching up with the Travels (I hadn’t thought of them that way before, but it’s so perfect!) was so much fun. yestravel, glad you’re enjoying the photos and revisiting the trip! And I am pleased that the GTG came together, too. Yup, TP, a mini-GTG in Morocco. It was amazing that it worked out! |
Still following and loving it. Your photos are everything I thought Morocco would be, and make me really want to get there. Thanks for sharing your experience and answering my questions.
I will keep the Moroccan Family in mind for when we go, they really sound like a great family to work with, especially as they offer some flexibility in the hotel choices. I love the items you listed as "would do differently", because they were on my list to do/see. I had a very hard time fitting everything in 15 or 16 nights. I'll work on adding a couple more days when we go. Such an amazing country! |
Thanks so much, xyz! I'm glad you're enjoying the photos and are finding the report helpful!
More to come soon... |
Truly an awe-inspiring photo- narrative!! Thank you so much Progol.
|
oh there's more? Yippee!
|
Thanks, so much, inquest!
And annhig, I hope to have more pix up on the weekend. Darn that work - it definitely takes away the energy to do the fun work of a report! Oh, retirement can't come too soon! |
LOVE the photo of banjo- playing Michael and the Morocco hoe-down!
|
Thanks, CaliNurse! I’m a bit partial to that photo, too ��
|
See the photo of the man, head wrapped n white cloth (maybe Salem?) talking to Michael at Da Bluespatio?
That is is the long gauzy head covering I mentioned months ago in either your or yetravel's Morocco planning thread, as being a great item to buy at a local market. It really helped with breathing through wind-blown sand on my long-ago trip through the Sahara Desert. |
Originally Posted by CaliNurse
(Post 16765070)
See the photo of the man, head wrapped n white cloth (maybe Salem?) talking to Michael at Da Bluespatio?
That is is the long gauzy head covering I mentioned months ago in either your or yetravel's Morocco planning thread, as being a great item to buy at a local market. It really helped with breathing through wind-blown sand on my long-ago trip through the Sahara Desert. The white scarf is just like all the other head scarves that are wrapped around the person's head. Salem wears different colored headscarves (shesh). And there's the one of the 4 of us at the desert camp, each of us wearing one. The white one is just a different color and material, but used the same as the other scarves. And yes, one purpose of the long cloth is that it can be undraped and provide protection against the desert sandstorms, for instance. And speaking of headscarves, did anyone wonder if the guide in Kasbah Telouet carefully chose his headscarf to match the tiles? I sure did! Look at his close up and you'll see what I mean! |
Bit by bit, I hope to finish this trip! It's hard to believe that its now almost 3 months since we returned!
Leaving the Route of 1000 Kasbahs, we approach and then drive through the High Atlas mountains. The landscape is changing yet again! We are no longer seeing the colors of the last few days - the golden sand and the the Morocco brick. In a short time, we have experienced an incredible variety of vistas and views! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1019aa902.jpg Approaching the High Atlas Mountains https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c7610fa7a.jpg Driving through the High Atlas |
CaliNurse -- I had asked about what to wear in the desert and you mentioned the headscarf. They are as progol described. I did buy one in Essaouria, never used it and then left it behind. Unless you buy one of the "better" quality ones we were told they fade & bleed horribly. The guy we bought it from as well as our driver tried to teach me how to put on, but I never did get the hang of it.
For those who love mountain driving, also in the High Atlas south of Marrakech, check out the Tizi n'Test pass - it's fabulous with it's greenery juxtaposing red clay hills. Once you get above the fog bank there is gorgeous scenery with incredible mountains and virtually no traffic. |
Arriving in Marrakech was a shock to the system - back to the manic energy of a large Moroccan city, with another labyrinthine streets and alleys, lots of museums and buildings with beautiful Moorish architecture and stunning tilework -- and a feeling of wandering through yet another old world that is both fascinating yet has an aggressive current which can also be overwhelming.
We stayed in the lovely L'Orangerie in the heart of the medina - between our flagging energy and the rain that greeted us upon arrival and much of the next day, we barely took any photos of the riad. But it is wonderfully run by the very charming Cyril, a Frenchman who is passionate about Marrakech and an excellent host to the city. It's well situated, very comfortable, and good breakfasts (though too wet to enjoy them on the terrace). Riad Marrakech | Riad l?Orangeraie https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4702d9f183.jpg L'Orangerie - view to the pool ----------------- After a necessary break, we ended up at the pulsing heart of the medina, the Jemaa El Fna, the square and marketplace filled with every type of vendor imaginable! An utter assault of the senses and nerves! Here you'll see the snake charmers (and you'll pay a few dirham to take a photo; we passed on this), hawkers of every item needed and not, and at night, it's filled with food stalls. Walking through, we were quickly approached by so many vendors pushing their stalls, and we ended up sitting down at a table and ordering any number of dishes before really figuring out how to approach this experience. The foods quickly added up to more than we expected -- not an outrageous amount, but much more than we thought we were going to pay. It was exhausting -- I'm glad we had the experience, but it wasn't one that we cared to repeat. Overviews taken from Le Grand Balcon Cafe Glacier https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2ce90c9f5.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bee96e2858.jpg The stalls https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...423bd3f2c0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a5d18e667.jpg And a bit of the flavor of the Jemaa El Fna scene: |
Wow.wow & simply wow. The Moroccan atmosphere comes alive with the video. Why travel any more!! I'did just sit back and enjoy and relive the past in my cosy couch .Awesome Progol.
|
Correct me if I'm wrong. I suppose its the pan pipes of the Southern Rif.Jajouka if im right. Absolutely lilting. Kind of Sufi flavour to it that I've heard in Pakistan and India. Can put anyone in a trance. Whirling Dervish!! I need a drink !!
|
Originally Posted by inquest
(Post 16765783)
Wow.wow & simply wow. The Moroccan atmosphere comes alive with the video. Why travel any more!! I'did just sit back and enjoy and relive the past in my cosy couch .Awesome Progol.
<<Correct me if I'm wrong. I suppose its the pan pipes of the Southern Rif.Jajouka if im right. Absolutely lilting. Kind of Sufi flavour to it that I've heard in Pakistan and India. Can put anyone in a trance. Whirling Dervish!! I need a drink !!>> I really don't know. I had assumed it was the snake charmer, but I didn't see what was being recorded since I took the video from the cafe overlooking the square. |
I struggled to create an itinerary within the limited time we had. I'm never in favor of splitting up a city stay, but really had little choice as I wanted to make sure we visited Essaouira, the (well-deserved) popular small city on the coast. So we ended up with 2 nights in Marrakech, one night in Essaouira and returned to Marrakech for the last 2 nights of our visit. I initially had us stay 2 nights in Essaouira and would've enjoyed a second night but I'm still glad we returned for the last 2 nights in Marrakech.
And it started out raining on our first full day. We had a lovely guide (arranged for us through Salem), and visited the popular tourist spots within the medina, stopping by the Koutoubia mosque and minaret. The minaret is a very visible landmark in Marrakech, and its appearance may be familiar if you've seen the Tour Hassan in Rabat or the Giralda in Seville, Spain. The Koutoubia minaret https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ffe8562bd.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41d47c73f4.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0cab417efe.jpg Bab Agnaou The Bab Agnaou (or gate) is the main entrance to the kasbah, originally a royal entrance, built in the 12th century by the almohads. There are floral decorations around a shell and an inscription from the koran. And of course, more storks and nests! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...725b06fde5.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cce8dc76e8.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22a4df8c93.jpg |
Not so sad at the Saadian tombs
If there is one place that stood out visually in Marrakech, it would be the Saadian tombs, the royal necropolis for the Saadian dynasty. Although there were burials as early as the 14th century, the tombs that are seen today date back to the 16th century and are well preserved because they were sealed off for about 200 years when Moulay Ismail took over Morocco in the 17th century. We can thank the Saadian Sultan, Al Mansour, for the rich interiors and beautiful carving, especially the family mausoleum, The Chamber of the 12 Columns. And no expense must've been spared for the imported Cararra marble, the exquisite tilework, the cedar ceilings (including some with gold gilding!). Exterior tombs https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a61667f09.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...341553de22.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2189b09114.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d6201bab1a.jpg Looking into the Chamber of the 12 Columns https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58e1bfc2e8.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f147a3b012.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5b0bbd21e.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...119efd3b76.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b89cf4513.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5066a0f907.jpg |
Wow! The Saadian tombs are truly a masterpiece. What an amazing trip, sights and sounds (and I'm sure, smells) you encountered on this trip!
|
xyz, thanks so much for your comments! So glad you're following this and hope your future trip finally takes place!
|
After the Saadian tombs, we visited the Bahia Palace (Palais Bahia), a 19th century structure begun by Si Moussa, the Grand Vizier to the Sultan, and expanded by his son, Bou Ahmed. By now, the rain was coming down harder, and the place was fairly crowded with tourists. We loved the Saadian tombs but we were finding it hard to focus by the time we got to the palace.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc24e08e6a.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6942a46473.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11f9f9b18a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11cfb65a9f.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...827d421e8c.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8fb664e4a6.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1016ea268.jpg I don't know why the tiling is styled this way; it looks like a Jewish star but I can't find any info on it. If anyone knows about it, please let me know! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9895e7a7e.jpg Our guide, in the garden https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f45b20906.jpg The courtyard! stunning! |
Visually stunning! The exquisite designs and architecture keeps on drawing me into Morocco.
|
"I don't know why the tiling is styled this way; it looks like a Jewish star but I can't find any info on it. If anyone knows about it, please let me know!"
I wondered about the design of the tiles too. I would love to have any info anyone knows about it. |
Thanks, tp! I knew you would love the photos from Marrakech! The Saadian tombs are just breathtaking, and I love the courtyard in the Bahia Palace.
yestravel, I wish I knew about the tiled floor. I hope someone might know about the stars. Because they sure do look like the Jewish star. More to come, folks. Almost done, but not yet! |
Great photos as ever, progol; the buildings are very reminiscent of the Alhambra of course. The tiled floors are lovely.
Glad you came back with more treats for us. |
Annhig,
I’m thrilled that you’re still on this journey with me and glad you’re enjoying the photos. There are still more to come - I hope to get done with it soon. I can’t believe I’ve been back over 3 months now! |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:39 AM. |