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Medina, continued
Entryways, Gates and Arches https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f72da07b0.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...681df4937a.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3efbfd770d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...57318c035c.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...234d45cd46.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c8e8fc3d6.jpg |
Medina
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3787e4c245.jpg Junk Market by the wall https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e63f67e3ef.jpg Taking a break Buying a tarbouche, Not a fes! This was a lovely gentleman - he didn't try to push Michael to purchase anything. Michael had wanted to buy a fez in Fes. We were quickly corrected, and told that here they are called "tarbouche". He liked the felt but wanted one with a tassle, although it seems that only the cardboard ones were made with the tassle. After looking around, Michael wanted to come back to this particular vendor and he purchased the tarbouche. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47a4184766.jpg "This is what I have" https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10627e20a4.jpg A lovely interaction https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7451fbfccb.jpg Tarbouche (not a fez!) |
Nice fez, oops tarbouche!
"The old part of the city that consists of hundreds of small lanes and narrow streets in maze-like patterns, which are crowded with tourists exploring,..." We enjoyed our time with our guide in Fes. One of the factoids he shared was there are over 9000 alleyways in Fes! |
Lovely photos as usual Paule. Thanks for taking me back to Morocco. We visited Fes by default after being conned on the train from Tangier to Casablanca.....still very worthwhile, it was one of our favourite cities. Morocco has been on the return radar since 2004, even more so now.
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Originally Posted by yestravel
(Post 16744073)
Nice fez, oops tarbouche!
"The old part of the city that consists of hundreds of small lanes and narrow streets in maze-like patterns, which are crowded with tourists exploring,..." We enjoyed our time with our guide in Fes. One of the factoids he shared was there are over 9000 alleyways in Fes! sartoric, thanks so much! I'm glad you're enjoying the photos (again!) and that it's inspiring you to want to go back. More photos of Fes to come later... |
"it sure felt like 9000 alleyways! And then double it if you're getting lost and have to backtrack!"
You're not kidding! Although I think we got lost less in Fes than in Marrakech which is smaller. |
Wow, your pictures are wonderful. I especially liked the mosaics but also the scenes in Fes. And yes, the place you stayed was phenomenal.
Regarding touts, although I’ve not been to Morocco, I thought they were really bad in Egypt and India. I loved both of those trips, but the touts did put a damper on things and made it so much less enjoyable to walk around unaccompanied. I agree that Turkey was not so bad. |
One more question - I haven’t seen any reference to or pictures of snake charmers. I’m terrified of snakes. Did you see any?
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yestravel, by the time we got to Marrakech, it was a breeze to find our way around! Well, that's a bit of an exaggeration :lol: Fes was just so huge - we got lost occasionally, but never to the point that we couldn't get oriented, though sometimes, it took us a while to find a point that was familiar enough. Fortunately, Michael has a generally good sense of place and got us around without too much lost time!
althom, thanks again for your lovely words. Unfortunately, the touts in many of the places in Morocco were very overwhelming, and that definitely impacted the experience. That said, we loved our trip - it is an amazing place to visit, and being forewarned is being forearmed! And as for the snake charmers, the only place we saw them were in the massive main square in Marrakech, Jemaa el-Fnaa, which by day has a market and lots of activities going on, including snake charmers. Easy enough to avoid them. And for those who want to take a picture, know that you will be expected to pay something. |
Progol - yet more lovely photos. You seem really to have captured the essence of what you were seeing.
I have to say that after the trouble we had with touts in Tunisia over 35 years ago, we never returned there or went to Morocco. We found being treated as a "walking wallet" was so unpleasant that we never wanted to repeat the experience, when there were so many other great places to visit. I can see that we missed a great deal because of that decision, and possibly things might be better with a guide. I have also posted somewhere [here?] that when I went out by myself, I had no trouble at all. Perhaps it would be a good place for a solo trip! |
Brilliant pictures. I need to look at them again and again. Brought back lovely memories.
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Wonderful thread and photos :)
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Love the lost in market conversation. We had to pay a guy $1 to get us out of Jemaa El-Fnaa. I noticed a couple of Americans following us and nearly asked for 50c. Ha ha.
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Thanks so much everyone, for the wonderful comments!
annhig, I completely understand avoiding places because of the aggressive touts; it is overwhelming, and very much a part of the experience - and not in a good way! So part of my message is to anticipate this aspect of the trip and be prepared. And for some, the travel (anywhere, not just Morocco) is worth it while for others, it may be too much. We have to figure out our own levels of tolerance in travel. gertie, many thanks! More to come (though with a f/t job still, it looks like the weekend mornings are usually my photo days, so hopefully, I'll have more up soon!) ibobi, thank you! Glad you're enjoying this! sartoric: <<We had to pay a guy $1 to get us out of Jemaa El-Fnaa. I noticed a couple of Americans following us and nearly asked for 50c. Ha ha.>> Haha, I see you really got into the experience of Morocco! You are truly too funny! |
Still in Fes...
With our guide (whose name I don't even remember, he really didn't make a connection with us), we saw the Chouwara tannery, the main tannery that people visit in Fes. In order to get to a viewing point, you are taken through a doorway on the street that goes through a leather shop (surprise!) and then to a viewing balcony overlooking the vats where the skins are soaked and then dyed. We were given a twig of mint but it really wasn't as smelly as I expected and I didn't find that I needed the mint. We went through #10, which is considered one of the best viewing balconies in Fes. I was taken by the process, though - it is remarkable to see, despite the many photos we've seen. The following day, we were approached by a young man in a little square in the mellah, and pointed out a building that used to be a synagogue. He was very pleasant in his hustle and asked if we anted to visit one of the smaller tanneries in Fes. I was at first a little uncomfortable, as he took us through some quiet back streets, but brought us to a place that was exactly what he said -- a tannery. And no shops this time. And no heavy sales pitch. Yes, of course we gave him some money for our unofficial "tour" :blush: but this was well deserved. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76af71b846.jpg Overview https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...527844cccb.jpg The vats https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...328aaa160d.jpg The vats https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e8cc60da5.jpg Drying the skins |
Mosques, medersas and museums
I love the architecture, with the soaring courtyard; the stunning tile work (zellige), the Moorish arches, and the striking geometric designs and calligraphy. We made a few quick stops outside several of the mosques as non-Muslims are not allowed to enter (except for the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, and we didn't stop there). and entered at least one medersa, Medersa Seffarine. To be honest, it was more of a lightning fast tour, and we really didn't have time to absorb it as much as I would've liked. On our own, we also visited the Nejjarine Museum of Wood and Crafts, which is another beautifully-restored historic building (but our Dar was better ;) ) with a very lovely rooftop cafe, where we had some Moroccan tea (of course!). https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e69a949bc.jpg Mosque view https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a355ac4c5.jpg Mosque view https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08dbcc6d90.jpg Mosque view https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1376809ec4.jpg Mosque view https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a8ea892a3c.jpg Medersa Seffarine https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...065044cddf.jpg Medersa Seffarine https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aaf8050eec.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccf2f5b21b.jpg Entryway to Nejjarine museum https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19159c9dcb.jpg Nejjarine museum interior |
Overview
As part of our tour, we drove up to the Borj Nord fort that overlooks the town. It's built during the Saadian dynasty, modeled after Portugese forts, and contains a museum of arms (we didn't go in). It has a great viewpoint overlooking the city. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f697dedc9.jpg Fes overview The Royal Palace gates We also drove to see the Royal Palace gates, a stunning entryway to the palace, which is not open to the public. The gates are lovely and worth a quick stop. After that, we visited the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter which is nearby. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84ebe403cc.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d30708af21.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fba70acbab.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b703126e49.jpg |
<<The following day, we were approached by a young man in a little square in the mellah, and pointed out a building that used to be a synagogue. He was very pleasant in his hustle and asked if we anted to visit one of the smaller tanneries in Fes. I was at first a little uncomfortable, as he took us through some quiet back streets, but brought us to a place that was exactly what he said -- a tannery. And no shops this time. And no heavy sales pitch. Yes, of course we gave him some money for our unofficial "tour" https://www.fodors.com/community/ima...ojis/1f60a.png but this was well deserved. >>
lol, Progol, that must have made a nice change. In Tunisia we fell for a great scam, so good it still makes me laugh. We had hired a car and were en route between one place and another when we were flagged down by a small boy standing next to a car that had "clearly" broken down. Somehow, in french I suppose, he communicated that this was his father's car and could we take him into the next town where his uncle had a shop so that he could help. Of course, we said, so we duly gave this lad a lift to the shop, where were we invited in for tea as a thank you for our kindness. You will be astonished to discover, as we were, that this was a carpet shop, and before we knew what was happening, we were being given the hard sell by the "uncle". We did not succumb and soon made our excuses and left. Needless to say we did not stop again whatever disasters appeared to have befallen travellers by the side of the road. |
Visually stunning! I don't think I've had such a feast of the eyes in all my travels. Simply love the colors and geometric patterns.
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<<Needless to say we did not stop again whatever disasters appeared to have befallen travellers by the side of the road.>>
annhig, after the experience you describe, I would be doing the same thing! Glad you got away without any more damages! That was a pretty extreme strategy to bring you into a carpet shop, however! tripplanner, I'm thrilled that you've been enjoying the photos so much! I really encourage you to go! Seriously. My husband and I have been reflecting on the trip, and we are both so glad that we went! We really did enjoy the trip a lot. There is an intensity traveling in Morocco that is both overwhelming but still thrilling, despite the parts of it that we were less comfortable with. As I look over the photos again, I'm struck by how much we were able to see. I wish we had another week to have added a day here or there, and also stay in a place that is simply about relaxing. But if you are enjoying these photos, then you really must visit! One more overview from the Baj Nord fort above Fes before we leave: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c75649cbf8.jpg |
Thank you Paule. Your report and photos have definitely rekindled my interest and have me thinking.
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tripplanner, I'm glad to hear that your interest has been rekindled! I don't want to dissuade you from a visit to a fascinating place. As you'll see, the trip changes dramatically as we go from Fes toward the desert.
We left Fes and our stunning home for 3 nights and had a long day's driving till we ended in Merzouga, our base at the foot of the Sahara, before we traveled into the desert. We stopped first in Ifrane, known as the "Switzerland of Morocco". It's a shocking change after the medina in Fes - this is a startling pristine town built in the 20s by the French administration as a getaway place for the wealthy. It's perfect as a short toilet stop on your journey, but otherwise pretty dull, an upscale mall. And the ATM didn't even work right away! Next stop, the cedar forest in Azrou, where the Barbary apes (macaques) live. We stopped our car along the road where several other cars had parked, and within seconds, we "met" the macaques! Let's just say that they are far too habituated to humans! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f2576fe21.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...413a1835fc.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95db1fac07.jpg Aren't we looking a bit too innocent now? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1cf2e66544.jpg and another... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8b136cb3ba.jpg This was a quick stop only, and not one I'd spend much time on unless you're looking to spend some time hiking in the region. |
After leaving Azrou, the terrain began to change once again. We made a quick roadside stop where Salem bought a large bag of oranges.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3afdb80a9b.jpg We had lunch in Zaida, the BBQ or "Meat town", that is not far from Midelt. Every place sells BBQ and you can smell it in the air! The food is good, the place is local - what more do we need? Vegetarians, be forewarned: this town is not for you! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e028e75464.jpg On the road again We stopped at an overlook, where we viewed the Ziz River, a waterway which feeds the towns in the Ziz Valley. It may look dry and dusty on first glance, but there are towns here that have grown up within the lush groves in the valley. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c43bf2ccea.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49b8f6997e.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2188c5a737.jpg This is only one of many that we saw along our drive through the region. |
We had one more stop before we arrived in Merzouga, where we slept the night before traveling into the desert. This stop was very special -- Salem took us to his sister's home where we had tea and cake with his sister, her husband and their son. Salem is a Berber, and his family were nomadic, but after his older brother and sister were born, his parents settled in Rissani. We were all a little shy with one another, but we were still made to feel very welcome into their home. These are the moments that stay with us. Thanks to Michael, who took the best shot of all of us and made us all smile! And thanks to Salem for bringing us here!
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progol - the "encounter" with the carpet salesman was not the only memorable part of our trip to Tunisia. We had a wonderful time on the island of Djerba and a lovely evening and night in an oasis though unfortunately something we ate or drank had a somewhat profound effect on us both so our train ride back to Tunis the next day was "interesting" to say the least. Thank goodness we were travelling in "tout confort" with decent toilets, not in the back with the goats. We also stayed in gorgeous Sidi Bu Said and saw Carthage which was lovely. Great memories but I never wanted to go back.
You have done a wonderful job in taking us to Morocco with you and I'm not surprised that you have awoken or rekindled interest in others. Having such terrific guide must also have helped of course. Thank you again for sharing it all with us. |
Glad you were able to spend some time with your driver's family. I just love those moments.
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Many thanks again, annhig and tripplanner, for such kind words.
tripplanner, more amazing architecture and design later....for now, we enter a different world! annhig, Tunisia must’ve been remarkable, though I appreciate the reasons why once was enough! |
Finally, after a very long day of driving after leaving Fes, we arrived in our hotel for the night, Auberge du Sud, at the edge of the Erg Chebbi Sand dunes. At last, we've arrived at the desert! And the hotel is like a fantasy resort, a huge fortress with a swimming pool overlooking the dunes. Buffet dinner and breakfast with lots of choices. The room was a bit dark and small, but it was fine for one night.
Auberge du Sud https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dae65db0f9.jpg Our home for one night! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0681143f0.jpg The wind was blowing strong as we arrived! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78171fa845.jpg A very indulgent way to spend some time https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3e2f0b76d.jpg Poolside https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...444188f7a6.jpg At the foot of the dunes, just beyond our hotel! |
I just found your report, progol, and am thoroughly enjoying it! Im so glad we can post photos here, as yours are stunningly beautiful. When you say you had negative reactions to photography, did they occur when you were in "open" places, like squares or alleyways or when you took pictures of specific things?
The photos of the Barbary apes made me laugh - we had some encounters with them in Gibraltar! I've been wanting to visit Morocco for some time and your experiences have changed the way I think we will do this. I'm putting Salem's website in my notes, and will contact his company when time comes. Did you have your city guides arranged in advance by your company? Thanks for taking the time to write this wonderful report - looking forward to the next installment! |
Still following along.
Your pictures are really beautiful! Did you spend two full days in Fes? |
Thanks so much, Florida1 and Live2Travel!
Florida, I'm happy that you're keeping Salem's name in your notes -- he is special. As far as the guides go, as I understand it, there is a roster of guides and one gets assigned depending upon availability. So it was arranged by the agent, but no one was reserved specifically for us. Of course, some of the agents may have preferred guides, but there wasn't a guarantee for us. I would do more research into this and ask for someone who may've gotten good reviews. You may not recall, but I didn't work with Salem to put my trip together, but another agent; he, in turn, hired Salem as our driver. And it was the driver's job to arrange on-the-go for all of our activities, although the agent I worked with directly took care of the hotels. And hired Salem as our driver! Live2Travel, yes we spent 2 very full days in Fes! The first day was with the agent until mid-afternoon; the next day, we wandered the medina on our own. It's HUGE!! More to come shortly.... |
Thanks for the information, progol!
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<<Live2Travel, yes we spent 2 very full days in Fes! The first day was with the agent until mid-afternoon; the next day, we wandered the medina on our own. It's HUGE!! >>
Oops, not with the agent - with the guide until mid-afternoon! Sorry about that! Florida, you're very welcome! If you do contact Salem prior to your trip, you might ask him who others have recommended in addition to finding names on the internet. |
Brilliant report accompanied by some awesome photos.Brings back fond memories.Thanks Progol
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Wow, inquest, thank you! Such high praise! I appreciate it, and hope everyone continues to enjoy the TR!
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The Edge of the Desert
After a large buffet breakfast, Salem picked us up for our day to explore towns and other spots along the desert edge. We spent a full day in these activities; who knew there was really so much to see? For many people who visit a desert camp, the experience starts with a camel ride from their hotel in Merzouga. And the luxury camp business is definitely growing! Here, we stopped to see a herd of camels getting fed (probably in between their tourist treks) before being led away. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec62fe1e3b.jpg Taking a break https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b234f984bb.jpg Back to work https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b25673e3bf.jpg On the way https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71868390de.jpg Different forms of transportation The Oasis We entered the Merzouga oasis and walked along the extensive irrigation system which supplies water to the local farmers plots. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b529431dfb.jpg Salem along the irrigation system https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2ee953b37.jpg A palm forest https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f2a7f73f5.jpg Life in the desert! |
oh, there's more! goodie!
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Truly amazing and inviting shots, progol. Thank you very much for taking the time to share them.
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annhig, lots more to come! If only I didn't have to work.....
TDudette, thank you! So glad you're enjoying the journey. |
I have heard that the men who work in the tanneries don't live much into their 30s due to the toxicity of the chemicals that they are constantly immersed in and breathing.
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