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Great Thread and cool images, I`m doing my research to visit Morocco, This would be great help.!!
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Thanks, Sophieg! I'm glad you're enjoying it!
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Wow, Marrakesh is really something! And that court yard....it looked like there weren't a lot of visitors, surprising after seeing the super crowded market photos.
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Our guide then took us through the medina, where we walked through a few of the souks, stopping so that Michael can purchase a pair of the ubiquitous leather shoes.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f996d3edfc.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8db8c9b713.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20c739bb36.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...094035e888.jpg We even stopped to have some of the the wonderful fava bean soup called bessara. It was just before he closed up, so he scraped together one bowl for us - very tasty! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d0ee943c28.jpg And then, to continue on our music-making theme, we passed a small music shop which Michael wandered into and, once again, shared musical moments. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dbaed4362c.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d0a4b8489.jpg |
After a break at our hotel, we went out for our afternoon exploring - this time, the weather was very sunny and quite warm - a considerable change from our morning walk. Thanks to a recommendation by yestravel, we visited the Dar el Bacha museum, a fabulous home of Thami el Glaoui, one of the most famous Pasha of Morocco. A very glamorous home that saw some very glamorous and important folks, including Winston Churchill. It also hosted a very interesting exhibition, Shared Sacred sites, a display of art and artifacts from the 3 monotheistic religions, Judaism, Christianity and Islam. It has been on tour in different locations around the world, and we actually discovered a component of it at the NY Public library sometime after we returned.
It's a beautiful structure, and surprisingly, not crowded at all. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d056f52fb.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a1f2440f22.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9cfeb9c38b.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...581f1f671a.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9f8690dcb.jpg Details and closeups https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb1689c078.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7056f457af.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be0107e516.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34359104e8.jpg (*weird, I sized these all the same!) The fountain https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffb0ce4676.jpg And a "taste" of the exhibition https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42d8099607.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7ecfd3567.jpg |
Finally, a necessary respite in the afternoon heat, we walked to Le Jardin Secret, a recently renovated garden in Marrakech, with extensive plantings and a very thorough explanation of how the water flows to and through the complex. We were pretty tired by the end of the day, so a place to just chill out and enjoy the ambience was all we needed!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c30e44a63.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7f78eb031.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6dab9582e1.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b80e53ba50.jpg |
Still loving it all. The gardens look like a perfect place to relax with a cup of tea after all the sightseeing.
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More stunning places, Progol. I love them both. You are really selling Morocco to me in a way that no-one else has managed. I wonder what Marrakesh is like in February.
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Thanks so much, tp & annhig! I'm really pleased that you're enjoying this still! I have to admit that it's fun to organize this into a thread and relive my trip. It's probably the closes I'll come to blogging any time soon!
<<I wonder what Marrakesh is like in February.>> annhig, now you know you'll need to go to Marrakech in February and report back! More to come, though the end of the trip is in sight! |
annhig - I looked into going in Feb one year. The south including the desert is nice. Lots of people prefer the desert in the winter -- pleasant days, but cold at night. The north which is more mountainous can be cold in the winter.
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Still following and loving it. I'm so sad we had to cancel our trip, but I really want to make it happen someday. TRs like this are a huge incentive. Thank you, progol!
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So glad you're here and still enjoying the TR, xyz! Morocco is not going anywhere, so I'm sure you'll get another opportunity to go, and besides, now that you've seen the places you'd visit, you don't really have to actually go! ;)
Thanks for still following and letting me know, though - it's much appreciated. |
LOL, you are sooo wrong. Now that I've seen the places I'd visit, I REALLY have to go! :)
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same here, xyz99.
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xyz & annhig,
Yeah, I'd feel the same way! I just thought I'd try to give you a chance to have one less place you HAVE to visit! :lol: |
Very authentic Photo Collection. Love the colors ! Thank you for sharing
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I'm glad you're still following this TR and enjoying the photos, SophieG! Thank you so much for posting and letting me know.
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Salem picked us up bright and early for our trip to Essaouira, a roughly 2 1/2 - 3 hour trip from Marrakech. The day was pleasant - comfortable, and not too hot. We made a few stops along the way, including an Argan oil product factory/shop. And of course, we passed the "goats in the tree" phenomenon. There were, not surprisingly, a couple of tourist buses. And, it was explained to us, that while this is a real occurrence - the goats climb the Argan tree to eat the fruit, but the nuts within, which are then excreted (details to be read on your own!, are then used in the processing of the Argan oil products. HOWEVER, many of the goats that are seen in the trees are often tied to the branches or, at the very least, coaxed into the trees by the farmers as a tourist attraction. When people stop to take pictures, someone will come running out and ask for a tip. We didn't stop - this is a shot as we passed by.
If you're interested, this seems a good article on the phenomenon: https://theculturetrip.com/africa/mo...ts-of-morocco/ https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9dc39c7cda.jpg We then stopped at the Argan oil factory, where we were shown the "tradition process" with women in the front using stones to grind the kernels. This is simply to draw people in to the shop, as the process is generally automated. An article on the Argan oil cooperatives (thanks, Tim Cullis - this is from a 2015 post on TA): https://saadiaorganics.com/blogs/all...e-unbelievable Of course, I did go through the shop and look at the products and was vaguely considering purchasing something, but changed my mind. After leaving the shop, I walked across the parking lot and over to a long row of cabins containing the toilets; while inside the toilet stall, I hear a banging at the door. And when I opened it, the sales woman was there, ready to drag me back to the shop, after telling me that I could have a reduction in price! That's the first time anyone chased me to the toilet to get me to buy. The requisite shot of a woman grinding and processing the Argan nut https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5339b7570c.jpg |
At last, we arrived in Essaouira, and it charmed us immediately. A lovely balance of tourism and "real life", a busy working port, a lovely open square, a good sized medina that caters to both tourists and locals, and quiet back streets where you might be alone. And of course, strolling along the ramparts. It's an easy town to chill out in.
The Medina https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2d1ae93da.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fdeb765a4.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2da2e1afd4.jpg Loved these little "fig" pastries Place Moulay Hassan, a large square within the walls https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66692d7697.jpg The thriving port https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f39714f5dd.jpg The fish grill at the very end of the fish market, where you purchase your fish and it's grilled for you right there. Wonderfully fresh! Fish market https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d38d5b149c.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3649d070b3.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19b1b7af42.jpg The blue boats https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...697f285191.jpg |
The Jewish community
Essaouira once had the largest community of Jews in Morocco, but the majority of Jews left the country after the founding of Israel. There was a Jewish presence under the Romans as early as 2500 years ago, but by the 1980s, only 2500 or so remain in Morocco, and only a few actually remain in Essaouira. We visited one of the synagogues, Slat Lkahal, under restoration in the Mellah. https://www.wmf.org/project/jewish-quarter-essaouira http://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-06-2...israel/9879638 https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d8a50cb059.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8b0512e871.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e99a4f532.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e4bf37480a.jpg |
Wandering the back streets of Essaouira
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5640b7315d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41bfb457c7.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5feccadcf8.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df7b2e009c.jpg Music, music everywhere! Continuing the theme we started in earlier posts: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c981a64dcd.jpg |
A view from the Ramparts
People go to watch the sunset from the ramparts, and the sunset was hidden behind the clouds, but we weren't disappointed by the view: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab976626d9.jpg |
<< And when I opened it, the sales woman was there, ready to drag me back to the shop, after telling me that I could have a reduction in price! That's the first time anyone chased me to the toilet to get me to buy. >>
lol, progol - I think that would be guaranteed to put me off! [buying and my bodily functions!] as ever your photos as enchanting, whether of people, places or indeed animals in trees. did you stay in Essaouira? |
Thanks so much, annhig! Yes, I thought the sales woman took her sales pitch to a new level! And I definitely did not purchase anything after that!
And yes, we stayed one night in a small hotel in Essaouira - comfortable, pleasant, but not memorable. We were really glad to have the night, and though we enjoyed wandering a good part of the town during the time we were there, we could've easily spent another night because it was so much more relaxing than anywhere else. |
Sounds like the right place to wind down your trip. Was the hustling there similar to the big cities?
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<<Sounds like the right place to wind down your trip. Was the hustling there similar to the big cities?>>
I could've spent another day easily. The hustling is definitely not as aggressive and I did do a bit of shopping and found it not too bad. Prices were probably higher than I should've spent but I got a few nice leather bags for family members that seem to be decent, if not top quality. |
As always fabulous pictures! So enjoying reliving our trip through yours. Only in Morroco would you be chased in a bathroom.;) They don't give up, gotta give them credit. We spent 3 nights in Essaouira and loved it. Definitely laid back and less hustling in general. Plus the presence of music everywhere was so nice. We enjoyed the music walking around, sitting in cafes and in the restaurants we ate in. I did buy some Argan oils further south and even in Marrakech and still, love it. I got my purported camel leather flats there and wish I had bought more. They were a good price based on what I saw in Marrakech.
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Hi, yestravel! I’m so pleased you’re enjoying the chance to relive your trip! It’s funny how the chance to go through our photos and see the trip all over again has made me appreciate it all the more. Of course, the memory of being followed to the toilet is definitely a classic! Michael is happy with his leather (camel?) slippers. There were so many pretty ones and I would’ve loved a pair but can’t wear flats.
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LOL, I can visualize the scene, a Moroccan lady banging on the toilet door....it would've killed all desire (both for the bathroom and buying anything). And talking about bathrooms, were they Western, or hole in the ground?
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Speaking for my experience, only had Western toilets on our month long trip.
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Yes, xyz, if I even considered buying something at the Argan oil factory, I definitely lost all interest after the sales woman followed me to the toilet! Seriously, there is a limit!
And most of the toilets were, as yestravel said, western style, although I do recall at least one squat toilet in a very local place in a small town where we had lunch. But most are western style. |
Originally Posted by progol
(Post 16776831)
And most of the toilets were, as yestravel said, western style, although I do recall at least one squat toilet in a very local place in a small town where we had lunch. But most are western style.
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just started reading this wonderful trip report and your photos are so evocative! I noticed his headscarf and the tile colors immediately!
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xyz,
<<Good to know. Squatting is not a problem, getting back up....hmm, that's a different story https://www.fodors.com/community/ima...ted/smiley.gif>> Oh, can I relate! plambers, thanks so much for your sweet words! Morocco is certainly one of the most strikingly visual places we've visited! Glad you're enjoying the TR! |
Thank you so much for your report. Such a lot of work, but invaluable to helping me plan my trip for November. I just contacted Salem and hoping to book with his company.
Thanks again, Lisa |
Lisa, I'm thrilled that you are enjoying the TR and that it's helping you plan your own trip. I hope it works out for you with Salem - he is a gem!
Paule |
Thank you
the pictures are amazing!
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Thanks,so much, speediah!
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Gradually, we are coming to the end of the trip! Here are a just a few more from the medina in Essaouira.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90977ba695.jpg I love those olives! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90d38c7f2d.jpg |
As always, Salem met us early at our hotel. He told us he had a surprise for us - after visiting the many (wonderful!) popular tourist destinations, we were going to see the "real Morocco!" After 2 weeks, he got to know us pretty well and saw that we really love very local experiences. And today, we were going to experience one! We stopped in Tafetachte, a town somewhere between Essaouira and Marrakech, where preparations for a Fantasia were taking place and a huge market was held. This is not a typical tourist destination, and, at least during the day, we were the only foreigners there.
A Fantasia (this is not Walt Disney!), also known as moussim in Moroccan, is a ceremonial event and tradition celebrating a wartime cavalry charge, with horseriders synchronizing their horses and firing rifles in unison. We did not see the actual event, but we did see the grounds and some of the men who were starting to practice. We wandered through the very extensive market, purchasing meat which was then grilled for us, and we sat in a large tent, amongst families and friends doing the same thing. It was as "real" an experience as we could expect, and we loved that Salem thought we'd enjoy it. The fantasia: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fantasia_(performance) https://relay.nationalgeographic.com...rian-tradition Tafetachte Arriving in the town. The street was filled with vendors https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f8b117a82d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02f65abb4d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a324d17d3.jpg Walking through the very extensive grounds where the market was held https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4122bfe6b0.jpg Buying chicken https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7f6f52188.jpg Grilling https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7853c12d9.jpg The tent where we ate our meal; there were groups of friends and families. Someone walked around serving tea https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7838534215.jpg The 3 of us sharing a meal https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...301baea169.jpg Marketplace https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...69fb8eca4a.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff7f2d512f.jpg Men beginning to practice for the fantasia. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4034c75e87.jpg The grounds where the event will be held later on that evening. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c542bbca8.jpg |
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