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Memorable, magnificent Morocco!

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Memorable, magnificent Morocco!

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Old Jul 13th, 2025 | 03:45 PM
  #21  
kja
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@ tripplanner001: Thanks for continuing to read and for letting me know! I hope this TR is bringing back some good memories for you.

- - -

What I liked most, continued:

Whatever the style of architecture, one of the things I found most fascinating about Morocco was how many structures create spaces that are hidden from public view. Some of the photos I’ve already shared include glimpses of interior courtyards and the rich ornamentation of inner spaces. I came to think of Morocco as a place where much is hidden, and so I got a small geode while in the mountains – its gorgeous, hidden crystals seemed an epitome of Morocco.

Riads (traditional homes, generally in medinas and now often offering lodging) are a great example: From the narrow lanes of the medina, all one typically sees is an outer wall, broken only by a strong door – and that outer alleyway might be far from attractive. Once admitted, an entry way leads (sometimes via a long unadorned passageway and/or other foyer-type space) to a courtyard, typically featuring greenery and a fountain and glorious architectural detail; rooms, often on several stories, are arrayed around this courtyard. Many of those I saw were utterly stunning! Here’s a photo of the riad in which I stayed in Fez, the El Yacout. Originally built in 1347, it was restored about 10 years ago.




Harems, of course, were hidden from public view, and I found it interesting to see spaces that had once been reserved for them. Women often entered them when quite young, so I couldn’t help wondering what it would be like to know that this space – these few rooms around a courtyard – would probably be one’s home for the rest of one’s life. Although currently in a sad state of disrepair, the Palais El Gloaui in Fez offers one example of a two-storied harem arrayed around a courtyard. Perhaps a bit less sobering was the sunken garden established for the harem at Marrakesh’s Palais Badia; it offered the women a relatively large area where they could roam, unseen.




As a relevant aside: In the days when women could not be seen in public unless properly robed and escorted, what was she to do when someone came to her door? The solution: A tiny projecting alcove surrounded by carved wood that would allow her to see out without being seen. If she saw someone who she could safely admit, she could drop the keys through a hole in the base of this tiny alcove. There are a few remaining examples in Rabat and Fez, where I saw this one, shown from about where one would stand to be seen.




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Old Jul 14th, 2025 | 07:32 PM
  #22  
kja
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I guess my report is leaving people speechless!
- - -


What I liked most, continued:

I just mentioned some of Morocco’s hidden gardens, but of course, Morocco has many gardens that are not hidden, and I thoroughly them, not to mention the flowers outside of gardens!

The aforementioned Jardin Majorelle in Marrakesh is a gem. I can fully understand why so many people choose to visit it – and truly, MANY tourists flock to this garden.



The Jardin Jnane Sbil in Fez is, IMO, well worth a visit. This very pleasant green space is just outside Fez’s medina, so there were couples out for a moment together and friends laughing at shared stories and adolescents finding ways to entertain themselves (and each other) and mothers pushing strollers – all adding to the joy of being there.



Another favorite -- the Andalusian Gardens of Rabat. Truly lovely, IMO.



And flowers in various expected and unexpected places, including the desert, where arugula was blooming.





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Old Jul 15th, 2025 | 04:56 AM
  #23  
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Kja, desert rocket, who knew? I love it when folks include a floral component to their TR.
You've depicted so many beautiful things.
Waiting for next...
I am done. The Maghreb
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Old Jul 15th, 2025 | 05:51 PM
  #24  
kja
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@ zebec: I was surprised by the arugula (rocket), too – there was a LOT of it and it was very tasty --- and apparently, camels love to chomp on it, too. Who knew?

- - -

What I liked most, continued::

In addition to public gardens, I found many other public spaces that were a delight to see.

Each of the medinas I visited has a least one public square, and each was particularly lively in the evening when people came out to stroll or to visit to one another or to listen to whatever performers were performing or whatever! IIUC, Marrakesh’s Jemaa el-Fnaa (mentioned upthread) is among the world’s largest public squares, if not THE largest. And what a fascinating place it is! There are rows of stalls selling fruit drinks or grilled foods or mint leaves; musicians set up rings of chairs where people can sit to listen; families roam; costumed “water sellers” pose for tourist cameras; youngsters run around their older siblings who are trying to catch a moment with their friends; tourists stroll…. It’s quite a lively place! This lousy shot might give some sense of what it’s like.



On the darker side (and something that really belongs on my “least liked” list), there are still a few snake charmers and monkey handlers in Jemaa el-Fnaa – not many, but a few. The monkeys are generally Barbary macaques -- an endangered species; they cannot be transformed into “pets” without disruption to their lives and their families. (I was glad to see a few wild macaques in the cedar forests near Azrou, though I must wonder if tourism is endangering them, too.) And as I understand it, the mouths of the cobras have generally been sewn shut to prevent them from biting … but that also means that they can’t eat, so they ultimately starve to death. If you go to Marrakesh, I encourage you to avoid engaging with these performers.


On a much more positive note: Many public spaces in Morocco feature fountains. Those in the medinas often date from the time when there was no indoor plumbing, and so a local fountain was the main source of water for residents. I was told that a medina neighborhood in Fez had to have five things: a mosque; a school (madrassa); an oven (used for communal cooking of breads and tajines); an hammam (heated by the oven), and a fountain. Some fountains still work and are still used -- including the Nejjarine Fountain in Fez.




Of course, not all Moroccan fountains are in medinas or are for providing water. One of my favorite fountains was in Casablanca, in the Mohammed V Square. Here, couples stole a few discreet moments with one another and children fed pigeons and men dressed in the costumes of traditional water bearers sought business.




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Old Jul 16th, 2025 | 06:31 PM
  #25  
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What I liked most, continued:

I’ve offered several comments about the medinas I explored in Morocco, but I haven’t said how greatly I enjoyed roaming these mazes of narrow alleys and their souks and markets! (At least when not competing for space with a tour group.) Whether marketing produce or spices or copperware or fish or trotters or whatever ... so much to see and appreciate! And the lanes themselves, if not always beguiling, at least often enticing. At the risk of presenting too many photos:

Here’s an image from my first moments in Morocco, a market in El Jadida:




and some images from Essaouira:



and




This one is from Marrakesh:




Here’s one from the wonderful covered market et El Hedim Square in Meknes:




And here are several from Fez:



and



and



and one more, this one from the Al Andalous district:




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Old Jul 16th, 2025 | 07:48 PM
  #26  
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Kja, this above foodic imagery is special. The back-to-back shots of Essaouira, and then that seafood mélange, especially catch the eye.
Hope that you plan to matt-and-frame some of these.
I am done. the imagery
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Old Jul 17th, 2025 | 06:53 PM
  #27  
kja
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@ zebec: Thanks for your kind words about my pictures! I’m fortunate to have seen these things and am glad if you are enjoying them.

- - -

What I liked most, continued:

Having just written about markets, turning to the delights of Moroccan food seems a logical transition, and ohh! I did eat well in Morocco! And that included a very tasty camel burger at Café Clock in Fez.

Breakfasts at my riads generally included more sweet items than I might have preferred, but the ridiculously generous servings of breads and fruits and olives and yogurt and other items (sometimes including eggs) were more than enough to satisfy! Here’s a shot of a breakfast at the Riad El Yacout in Fez:




As I was to learn, ordering a selection of small salads – an option on many menus – didn’t mean getting a plate with a few vegetables: It meant getting anywhere from 5 to 16 amazing little dishes. The spread at Marrakech’s Al Fassia Gueliz was particularly memorable:




I enjoyed fresh seafood by the coast, including one of the best octopus dishes I’ve ever tasted, served at La Cle de Voute in Essaouira:




And then there were the tagines and tanjias – so flavorful! Here’s one example from the Dar Bab Todra:



I thoroughly enjoyed a cooking class at Café Clock in Fez (highly recommended!), where – by my choice – I learned to prepare pastilla. I also made a beet salad and traditional soup called harisa, shown here with some local breads.




BTW: Several restaurants I patronized in Marrakesh offer a free escort service to accompany one upon return to one’s lodging. I was told that they provide these guides because navigating the maze of alleys can be particularly hard at night, when all the shops and stalls are shut, so they look so different than during the day. I took advantage of that service a few times. Nice!

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Old Jul 18th, 2025 | 04:56 PM
  #28  
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What I liked most, continued:

Several of the restaurants I visited featured musicians, and I was very glad that I saw several Moroccan performing arts during my time in this fascinating country.

I enjoyed live music at several places. Among the best: A performance at the Mouassine Music Museum in Marrakesh. Awesome music, awesome venue! But my photos of the event were lousy, so instead, here’s one of a musician playing at the Odette Rooftop Bar.




Morocco has a long tradition of storytelling; unfortunately, it is another dying art. The Café Clock in Marrakesh is trying to keep it alive. I thoroughly enjoyed an hour or so being spellbound by a talented young storyteller.




Another traditional performing art: Belly dancing. While in Marrakesh, I dined at La Tanjia, which features belly dancers. Unlike the delightfully memorable performance I saw in Istanbul – which was staged and clearly choreographed – this restaurant has a number of belly dancers who circulate through the tables as they perform. To be honest, I found one of them WAY too interested in getting men to stuff money into her bra. My favorite was a young woman who fully engaged the youngsters among the patrons. She was a skilled belly dancer, and she was such fun to watch, whether fully engaged in her art or whether interacting with members of the audience.




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Old Jul 20th, 2025 | 04:20 PM
  #29  
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The number of views keeps going up. I hope that means that someone is finding value in this report!

- - -

What I liked most, continued:

It seems I’ve brought us back to traditional Moroccan arts, and OMG, the range of Moroccan crafts is extensive! I’ve already spoken to some of the dying arts; fortunately, many Moroccan arts remain vibrant.

Textiles (carpets, in particular) are, I believe, among the best known of Moroccan arts. As a cat owner, I opted against getting what I believe would have become another cat scratcher (sigh), but I did purchase a small pillowcase. And I thoroughly enjoyed seeing many extraordinary examples of incredible craftsmanship. These were at the Cooperative Tizerzit:



Ceramics (I've already shown a photo of a cooperative), leather tooling, and copper work are among the most vibrant of the crafts I observed – deservedly so! Here’s a coppersmith in Fez:



And a view of the Chouara Tannery in Fez:




Traditionally, jewelry has been a focus of Moroccan craftsmanship, and I was awed by several collections of these items -- in the Musee Berbere within the Jardin Majorelle and the Monde des Arts de la Parure, both in Marrakesh, and in the National Museum of Adornment in Rabat all glorious stuff! This photo is from the museum in Rabat.



Traditional dress was also featured in many museums and there were some glorious examples! This caftan was on display in the Monde des Arts de la Parure in Marrakech:





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Old Jul 21st, 2025 | 05:19 PM
  #30  
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Wow, I thought the cat would merit at least one comment.

- - -

What I liked most, continued:

In addition to performing arts and an amazing array of crafts, I was happy to indulge in some fine arts and to learn more about some Moroccan photographers and painters.

Examples of prehistoric art always fascinate me, as they speak to the creativity of ancient peoples. This example is from Rabat's Musee de l'Histoire et des Civilisations.




Several photographers caught my eye, in particular, I loved this shot by Sarah Smahane, which was on display at the Musee de la Femme in Marrakech.





I had not known the work of any Moroccan artists before my trip -- or at least, I didn’t know them as such. During my travels, I saw several paintings by Rachid Hanbali, whose work I enjoyed. Here’s one example from the Museum of Intangible Heritage in Marrakech – a painting of Bab Agneou, which is a beautiful (to my eye) Almohad city gate in that city.





I greatly appreciated a painting at the lovely Villa des Arts in Rabat. I wish I could tell you more about it! My photo of the label says “Almolouk” and identifies it as from 2023, but I’ve been unable to learn more about it. If any of you can provide further information, please do!





Next up … more of what I liked most….
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Old Jul 22nd, 2025 | 05:58 PM
  #31  
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What I liked most, continued:

I mentioned in the first post of this thread that I found Morocco to be a land of contrasts, and that was another aspect of my experiences that I most enjoyed: juxtapositions! The medinas of Marrakech and Fez were full of them -- women wearing hijabs riding motorcycles through souks and heavily laden donkeys passing shops catering to Westerners and displays of cheap Western goods next to gorgeous Moorish entryways. Here’s just one example, from Marrakech:




I loved watching two traditionally attired women walk by a sculpture by Nikki de Saint Phalle outside the Mohamed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Rabat.




And electric guitars in the desert! I had expected to hear some live Berber-influenced music around my camp’s evening fire; I didn’t expect electric guitars. But then I realized it made sense – who would risk getting sand in an acoustic guitar?




Next up … more of what I liked most and, I expect, the last post of this trip report….
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Old Jul 23rd, 2025 | 04:37 PM
  #32  
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What I liked most, continued … and the end of this trip report.

I saw some amazing things, and I experienced some memorable moments while in Morocco! Some of my favorites are ones I can’t show you: You should be grateful that I’m not offering a picture of me on a camel. Or of me in a hammam. And I don’t have a picture that conveys the glorious night sky, seen from the desert, once the musicians and my campmates had left and after all signs of man-made light had been extinguished. That night sky – utterly unbelievable! They were wonderful experiences that I hope others will make part of their time in Morocco.

And none of the photos I’ve shared can begin to capture the hospitality or generosity of the people I encountered during this trip. Their welcome is certainly among the things I treasured most and that I found among the most rewarding of my experiences in magnificent Morocco.

I’ll leave you with a few glimpses into the lives of some Moroccans I encountered:

Teenagers enjoying the Hassan Tower in Rabat:




People in a market in the medina of Marrakech:




And an enduring memory of the desert:




I hope this report proves of use to people. My thanks to tripplanner001, zebec, and Travel_Nerd for their comments.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2025 | 05:29 PM
  #33  
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Thanks for taking time to share your trip with us, kja. I enjoyed reliving some of my own moments in Morocco and seeing new bits of it through you.
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Old Jul 24th, 2025 | 06:09 AM
  #34  
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Fabulous photos kja! OMG, was all of that food meant for one person?

I love that they take such good care of the cats
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Old Jul 24th, 2025 | 10:16 AM
  #35  
kja
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@ tripplanner001: Thanks again!

@ Melnq8: Weren't those servings ridiculous? I was assured the food would not be wasted; I hope not! And I agree about the cats -- they were clearly well cared for. I enjoyed seeing that.
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Old Sep 5th, 2025 | 08:44 PM
  #36  
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Hey, any recommendation for a reliable tour guide?
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Old Sep 6th, 2025 | 08:51 AM
  #37  
kja
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Originally Posted by sheebs
any recommendation for a reliable tour guide?
If you want a half-day guide for a fascinating introduction to the artisans of Fez, I highly recommend the Culture Vultures tour. Other than that, I didn't use any guides while in Morocco, nor did I think one was necessary (though I understand that some people prefer to work with guides). It's a fascinating country -- enjoy!
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Old Sep 9th, 2025 | 04:33 AM
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KJA, I’ve just stumbled across your wonderful Trip Report and savoured it like fresh dates & a ripe cheese. Thank you so much for your fascinating insights - lovely writing & such evocative pictures.

Morocco has been on my radar for a while & seeing how & what you did in 3 weeks has rejuvenated it for me. We had a group of 6 trip for my niece’s birthday in 2021 planned but you know what happened to that.
I notice you were there during Covid, Tripplanner and am glad it worked out for you.

Thanks again, Kja!
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Old Sep 9th, 2025 | 09:06 AM
  #39  
kja
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@Bokhara2: If you like fresh dates and ripe cheese as much as I do, then you’ve given me a great compliment! Many thanks. Let me know if you have any questions as you plan (re-plan) a visit to this wonderful destination.
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Old Sep 9th, 2025 | 04:58 PM
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Thanks KJA- will do. 🤗
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