Lucy & Michael's African Adventure: Rwanda and Kenya July 28-August 15
Aug 22nd, 2006, 01:15 PM
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Hmmm...I'll have to have him write a report on that. But when I asked him what were his highlights from Rwanda...he listed Nyungwe right after our 2nd gorilla trek.
He originally went there to see the chimps...but found that there weren't any to see! Seems like that is regularly the case and that they move so face and it's really strenuous. He's quite athletic and wanted to do it, but the guide said that they wouldn't see anything that day.
So he went to the tea plantation, did the waterfall walk and the orchid walk. He saw the colobus monkeys, but actually saw more monkeys (vervet) around the guest house.
He liked the ORPTN guest house and LOVED the people. In fact, he left $200 in a drawer by mistake and didn't realize it until he was hours away. Their phone wasn't working so he was unable to call. He took a taxi back for $50 (thinking he had probably lost $250 now!) and the woman who works at the guest house started to jump up and down and was so pleased he was back. Apparently she had found the money and had called the matatu company, but he had gotten off at a different spot and they had no way to reach him. She was so pleased he came back and she wouldn't accept any money as a thank you.
He originally went there to see the chimps...but found that there weren't any to see! Seems like that is regularly the case and that they move so face and it's really strenuous. He's quite athletic and wanted to do it, but the guide said that they wouldn't see anything that day.
So he went to the tea plantation, did the waterfall walk and the orchid walk. He saw the colobus monkeys, but actually saw more monkeys (vervet) around the guest house.
He liked the ORPTN guest house and LOVED the people. In fact, he left $200 in a drawer by mistake and didn't realize it until he was hours away. Their phone wasn't working so he was unable to call. He took a taxi back for $50 (thinking he had probably lost $250 now!) and the woman who works at the guest house started to jump up and down and was so pleased he was back. Apparently she had found the money and had called the matatu company, but he had gotten off at a different spot and they had no way to reach him. She was so pleased he came back and she wouldn't accept any money as a thank you.
Aug 22nd, 2006, 01:54 PM
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Lucia, that's a great trip report. I visited Rwanda in 2003 and only did one trek at PNV, and it was great (similar to your second trek) -- in fact, a gorilla reached out and touched my leg as she passed on a path. I did a second trek at Bwindi in Uganda.
Michael
Michael
Aug 23rd, 2006, 11:47 AM
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KENYA: August 8-August 14
As I mentioned earlier, what was really important to us was a private safari with our vehicle...and we wanted a landcruiser/rover. We didn't want to be in a minibus. I'M SOOOO GLAD about that decision now. The extra expense was absolutely worth it.
The following was our itinerary.
August 8: 10:45am flight Kenya Air Kigali to Nairobi. Pick-up at airport by Gamewatchers Safari and drive to Kigio Conservancy. O/n Malewa River Lodge with night game drive.
August 9: Drive to Lake Nakuru. Morning and Afternoon game drives. O/n Sarova Lion Hill Lodge.
August 10: Drive to Masai Mara. Arrive Ilkeliani for lunch. Afternoon game drives. O/n Ilkeliani
August 11: Masai Mara full day game drive. O/n Ilkeliani
August 12: Masai Mara. Transfer to Basecamp. O/n Basecamp Dorobo Bush Camp
August 13: Masai Mara. O/n Basecamp Main Camp.
August 14: 4pm flight Mara to Nairobi. Dinner and transfer to NBO for return flight at midnight.
DAY 1:
Gamewatchers picks us up in PERFECT vehicle. Sooo comfortable, a multitude of tires...and after Rwanda, I can tell if it's a good tire
It doesn't have a pop-up roof, but instead removable roof panels (good...for sitting on the vehicle, bad...for sun protection). We drive to the Gamewatchers office and drop off a bag with them (so now our combined weight is around 30 lbs, excellent). We then begin the drive to the Kigio Conservancy (on the way to Nakuru). The Kigio Conservancy is a great spot. They have the rare rothschild gifaffe and a lovely spot. It's also a great place to go on walks. Unfortunately we arrive as it's getting dark and have to leave first thing in the morning. I highly recommend at longer stay at this lovely place.
The Malewa River Lodge was everything I dreamed a safari lodge would look like and feel like. There are no electric fences, so animals wander. We heard a hippo and warthog during the night. The cottages are freestanding and quite separate from one another. They also offer camping on the property.
Our cottage was BEAUTIFUL. It felt like somewhere to stay on a honeymoon. It was round with a thatched roof, HUGE bed, surrounded by a mosquito net...having a fire drill so TO BE CONTINUED.
As I mentioned earlier, what was really important to us was a private safari with our vehicle...and we wanted a landcruiser/rover. We didn't want to be in a minibus. I'M SOOOO GLAD about that decision now. The extra expense was absolutely worth it.
The following was our itinerary.
August 8: 10:45am flight Kenya Air Kigali to Nairobi. Pick-up at airport by Gamewatchers Safari and drive to Kigio Conservancy. O/n Malewa River Lodge with night game drive.
August 9: Drive to Lake Nakuru. Morning and Afternoon game drives. O/n Sarova Lion Hill Lodge.
August 10: Drive to Masai Mara. Arrive Ilkeliani for lunch. Afternoon game drives. O/n Ilkeliani
August 11: Masai Mara full day game drive. O/n Ilkeliani
August 12: Masai Mara. Transfer to Basecamp. O/n Basecamp Dorobo Bush Camp
August 13: Masai Mara. O/n Basecamp Main Camp.
August 14: 4pm flight Mara to Nairobi. Dinner and transfer to NBO for return flight at midnight.
DAY 1:
Gamewatchers picks us up in PERFECT vehicle. Sooo comfortable, a multitude of tires...and after Rwanda, I can tell if it's a good tire
It doesn't have a pop-up roof, but instead removable roof panels (good...for sitting on the vehicle, bad...for sun protection). We drive to the Gamewatchers office and drop off a bag with them (so now our combined weight is around 30 lbs, excellent). We then begin the drive to the Kigio Conservancy (on the way to Nakuru). The Kigio Conservancy is a great spot. They have the rare rothschild gifaffe and a lovely spot. It's also a great place to go on walks. Unfortunately we arrive as it's getting dark and have to leave first thing in the morning. I highly recommend at longer stay at this lovely place. The Malewa River Lodge was everything I dreamed a safari lodge would look like and feel like. There are no electric fences, so animals wander. We heard a hippo and warthog during the night. The cottages are freestanding and quite separate from one another. They also offer camping on the property.
Our cottage was BEAUTIFUL. It felt like somewhere to stay on a honeymoon. It was round with a thatched roof, HUGE bed, surrounded by a mosquito net...having a fire drill so TO BE CONTINUED.
Aug 23rd, 2006, 12:15 PM
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<font color="GREEN">"we wanted a landcruiser/rover. We didn't want to be in a minibus. ... The extra expense was absolutely worth it."</font>
Better safari words have never been said. I know that tour companies save $$$ by using minibuses, but if they give you the option for more $$$ get the Land Rover.
That would have changed our experience completely the first few days.
Looking forward to more from you.
Better safari words have never been said. I know that tour companies save $$$ by using minibuses, but if they give you the option for more $$$ get the Land Rover.
That would have changed our experience completely the first few days.
Looking forward to more from you.
Aug 23rd, 2006, 02:31 PM
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Lucy,
Nice to hear a report of Malewa. We strongly considered staying there last year.
Wayne,
To be fair, I think most of your initial vehicle problems should be attributed to maintenance, or lack thereof, rather than type of vehicle. I don't think I've ever read a report with so many accounts of breakdowns
Nice to hear a report of Malewa. We strongly considered staying there last year.
Wayne,
To be fair, I think most of your initial vehicle problems should be attributed to maintenance, or lack thereof, rather than type of vehicle. I don't think I've ever read a report with so many accounts of breakdowns
Aug 24th, 2006, 05:39 AM
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Sorry about that, we were forced to evacuate.
Anyway...about the Malewa River Lodge. We were staying in one of their rondavels...it had a thatch roof and was open-air (no windows or doors, though it did have bamboo shades to pull down). The front part had a little sitting area and a HUGE bed with a mosquito net all around it...not a hanging mossie net, but a box one that encircled the bed. We were told that there were no mosquitos at this altitude, but that the net was for other "flying" things. That should have tipped us off. Anyway, there were dressers for clothes, and also built in bunk beds! Behind the bedroom area (in the same rondavel) was the bedroom. It was very nice...flush toilets, great hot shower and a tub. Truly beautifully done, the whole thing.
I was terribly bummed that we were only staying one night My disappointment was furthered when we walked to the main lodge for a drink before dinner. With only 10-12 other guests sitting in front of the fire, chatting and playing games, it was a lovely way to unwind. Fresh popcorn and great drinks topped it off.
I'd heard the food there was excellent...I didn't find it so. It wasn't bad, just wasn't particularly good. I was also a little put off by the fact that there wasn't enough! It was a buffet, so the last couple of folks got no green beans or spinach. The cook really didn't cook enough.
Now for the fun part...sleeping. Ha ha! I lay down on this gogeous bed and Michael makes the mistake of shining the flashlight to the top of the thatched roof. Hello friends. There are 3 bats. Ewww... But they are nocturnal, so they will probably leave AND they have great sonar so they won't be flying up our mossie net and into our faces.
Now, before we left for Africa...I had prepared myself for all kinds of wilderness experiences...hippos, lions, hyenas, etc. This...I wasn't expecting!
I'm laying on the bed and all of a sudden I head SPLAT and then feel SPRAY ON MY FACE! The bed has just pooped ON MY FACE! My boyfriend, not believing me, takes my place on the bed. Sure enoough, PLOT and SPRAY. NASTY!! There is bat guano falling on our faces.
We then shine the flashlight and see that the WHOLE top of the sheet...what is between us and the bats, is COVERED in bat guano. In the morning, we discover a HUGE wet patch above our heads....seems these bats have been at this for a while.
So our little romantic cottage becomes anything but, as we sleep with our feet at the head of the bed and try to sleep with the sheets over our heads.
We let the owner know, but it seemed she was already aware of the problem and didn't know what to do about it. Michael and I suggested taking down the sheet and replacing it with something more heavy duty!!! I mean, she can't control the bats...but the bat guano falling on people's faces...that's something she can TRY to control.
So while I'd give the Malewa River 2 thumbs up and I'd stay there again and recommend anyone else to stay there...I would ask about the bats first
Ok...time for coffee. Next up...Nakuru.
Anyway...about the Malewa River Lodge. We were staying in one of their rondavels...it had a thatch roof and was open-air (no windows or doors, though it did have bamboo shades to pull down). The front part had a little sitting area and a HUGE bed with a mosquito net all around it...not a hanging mossie net, but a box one that encircled the bed. We were told that there were no mosquitos at this altitude, but that the net was for other "flying" things. That should have tipped us off. Anyway, there were dressers for clothes, and also built in bunk beds! Behind the bedroom area (in the same rondavel) was the bedroom. It was very nice...flush toilets, great hot shower and a tub. Truly beautifully done, the whole thing.
I was terribly bummed that we were only staying one night
My disappointment was furthered when we walked to the main lodge for a drink before dinner. With only 10-12 other guests sitting in front of the fire, chatting and playing games, it was a lovely way to unwind. Fresh popcorn and great drinks topped it off.I'd heard the food there was excellent...I didn't find it so. It wasn't bad, just wasn't particularly good. I was also a little put off by the fact that there wasn't enough! It was a buffet, so the last couple of folks got no green beans or spinach. The cook really didn't cook enough.
Now for the fun part...sleeping. Ha ha! I lay down on this gogeous bed and Michael makes the mistake of shining the flashlight to the top of the thatched roof. Hello friends. There are 3 bats. Ewww... But they are nocturnal, so they will probably leave AND they have great sonar so they won't be flying up our mossie net and into our faces.
Now, before we left for Africa...I had prepared myself for all kinds of wilderness experiences...hippos, lions, hyenas, etc. This...I wasn't expecting!
I'm laying on the bed and all of a sudden I head SPLAT and then feel SPRAY ON MY FACE! The bed has just pooped ON MY FACE! My boyfriend, not believing me, takes my place on the bed. Sure enoough, PLOT and SPRAY. NASTY!! There is bat guano falling on our faces.
We then shine the flashlight and see that the WHOLE top of the sheet...what is between us and the bats, is COVERED in bat guano. In the morning, we discover a HUGE wet patch above our heads....seems these bats have been at this for a while.
So our little romantic cottage becomes anything but, as we sleep with our feet at the head of the bed and try to sleep with the sheets over our heads.
We let the owner know, but it seemed she was already aware of the problem and didn't know what to do about it. Michael and I suggested taking down the sheet and replacing it with something more heavy duty!!! I mean, she can't control the bats...but the bat guano falling on people's faces...that's something she can TRY to control.
So while I'd give the Malewa River 2 thumbs up and I'd stay there again and recommend anyone else to stay there...I would ask about the bats first
Ok...time for coffee. Next up...Nakuru.
Aug 24th, 2006, 06:13 AM
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Hi there,
I've been reading your report with great interest and was so pleased to see that you'll also be writing about Basecamp and Dorobo. It's on my list for next summer but our outfitter seems to have difficulties getting in conatact with basecamp...
siro
I've been reading your report with great interest and was so pleased to see that you'll also be writing about Basecamp and Dorobo. It's on my list for next summer but our outfitter seems to have difficulties getting in conatact with basecamp...
siro
Aug 24th, 2006, 10:40 AM
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Sorry, forgot to write that Patty. It was raining when we arrived at the Kigio Conservancy and since they only had open-air vehicles they wouldn't do the night game drive. We were disappointed but also really tired. Our driver was going to do one for us when we were in the Mara (staying outside), but we opted out. We were out ALL day every day and it seemed unlikely we'd see anything good. I'll do a night drive on another trip.
Aug 24th, 2006, 10:55 AM
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LAKE NAKURU: August 9th
We left the Malewa River Lodge at around 9am on the 9th and headed to Lake Nakuru. It took us around 1 hour or so, but then we had to go to another gate due to a mix-up. We had a morning game drive down to the lake to see the flamingos and around the park and up to a viewing point. We had decided to go to lunch at the Lodge instead of having a picnic lunch, so we drove around the lake to the Sarova Lion Hill Lodge. We had lunch and checked into our room.
I really wasn't expecting much. I figured it was probably just a generic hotel. But our room was lovely...and after 2 nights of poor sleeps (bat guano, sinky beds at the Murhabura in Rwanda) the Lion Hill was MUCH needed.
We had a HUGE bed with lovely mosquito need (I think these are so romantic...even though their purpose isn't very romantic). The bathroom was nice, the place was clean and they even brought us a complimentary bottle of wine and a fruit basket!
Actually...I secretly think that many people thought we were on our honeymoon.
After lunch a little nap...we headed out for an afternoon game drives. We had already seens LOADS of animals...tons of white rhinos, baboons, impala, gazelle, buffalo. As we were pulling out of the lodge, Kamel started to book it...dust flying everywhere. He has a smile on his face but won't tell us where we're going. We pass the Lake Nakuru Lodge and see a couple of minibuses in the distance. As we pull up it's a sleeping pack of lions. Kamel gets prime spot and we wait. And suddenly they all start jumping into the trees. Apparently lions don't regularly climb trees in Kenya and our drive had never seen these lions in Nakuru do that...so that was a real treat. We watched them for an hour or so...as the minibus drivers got back as they wanted our spot and kept trying to get everyone to MOVE ALONG. This was the first of many times I felt like some safaris were like an amusement park...take the picture and leave...we were there to observe. So glad again that we had our driver and vehicle.
As we returned to the lodge, I kept looking for a black rhino...I really wanted to see one in order to see the difference. Kamel turned to us, in what would be come in a constant question and later running joke, and said "What do you want to see?" I said a black rhino.
Then the boys went back to talking and all of a sudden, a black rhino appeared! This was the first of my "spots."
We returned to the Lodge, happy as clams. Had dinner, which was very tasty...watched a Masai performance...and headed to bed. We were leaving at 7am for the Mara the next day.
After a glorious sleep, it was time to depart for the bumpy trip to the Mara.
We left the Malewa River Lodge at around 9am on the 9th and headed to Lake Nakuru. It took us around 1 hour or so, but then we had to go to another gate due to a mix-up. We had a morning game drive down to the lake to see the flamingos and around the park and up to a viewing point. We had decided to go to lunch at the Lodge instead of having a picnic lunch, so we drove around the lake to the Sarova Lion Hill Lodge. We had lunch and checked into our room.
I really wasn't expecting much. I figured it was probably just a generic hotel. But our room was lovely...and after 2 nights of poor sleeps (bat guano, sinky beds at the Murhabura in Rwanda) the Lion Hill was MUCH needed.
We had a HUGE bed with lovely mosquito need (I think these are so romantic...even though their purpose isn't very romantic). The bathroom was nice, the place was clean and they even brought us a complimentary bottle of wine and a fruit basket!
Actually...I secretly think that many people thought we were on our honeymoon.
After lunch a little nap...we headed out for an afternoon game drives. We had already seens LOADS of animals...tons of white rhinos, baboons, impala, gazelle, buffalo. As we were pulling out of the lodge, Kamel started to book it...dust flying everywhere. He has a smile on his face but won't tell us where we're going. We pass the Lake Nakuru Lodge and see a couple of minibuses in the distance. As we pull up it's a sleeping pack of lions. Kamel gets prime spot and we wait. And suddenly they all start jumping into the trees. Apparently lions don't regularly climb trees in Kenya and our drive had never seen these lions in Nakuru do that...so that was a real treat. We watched them for an hour or so...as the minibus drivers got back as they wanted our spot and kept trying to get everyone to MOVE ALONG. This was the first of many times I felt like some safaris were like an amusement park...take the picture and leave...we were there to observe. So glad again that we had our driver and vehicle.
As we returned to the lodge, I kept looking for a black rhino...I really wanted to see one in order to see the difference. Kamel turned to us, in what would be come in a constant question and later running joke, and said "What do you want to see?" I said a black rhino.
Then the boys went back to talking and all of a sudden, a black rhino appeared! This was the first of my "spots."
We returned to the Lodge, happy as clams. Had dinner, which was very tasty...watched a Masai performance...and headed to bed. We were leaving at 7am for the Mara the next day.
After a glorious sleep, it was time to depart for the bumpy trip to the Mara.
Aug 24th, 2006, 11:26 AM
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What a glorious day Lucia! I am still shivering from guano, but a day like this makes up for it, tree climbing lions and a black rhino. I thought every black rhino in Kenya had its own private guards. This one was on its own?
How did you find the buffet atr Sarovas Lion Hill?
And yes, mosquito nets in Africa, not for romance, but for function
How did you find the buffet atr Sarovas Lion Hill?
And yes, mosquito nets in Africa, not for romance, but for function
Aug 24th, 2006, 11:32 AM
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Yes Wayne it was a glorious day...and the black rhino we spotted alone...no vehicles nearby. But we definitely learned how shy it was as it darted away quite quickly.
We found the food at the Lion Hill quite good...nothing spectacular, but yummy. I particularly liked the Indian options. I was totally confused throughout my trip about eating salad and fruit. They had a nice salad spread and I ate a little...and it was good.
Breakfast was very yummy. But what I'll never understand is why the coffee I had throughout Kenya was so bad!!! I mean it was TERRIBLE...watery...nothing compared to Rwanda. Someone please explain!
Also, what's with the Nescafe? It seems that's what EVERYONE served. Please tell me a camp that serves honest to good coffee...I'm going there!
We found the food at the Lion Hill quite good...nothing spectacular, but yummy. I particularly liked the Indian options. I was totally confused throughout my trip about eating salad and fruit. They had a nice salad spread and I ate a little...and it was good.
Breakfast was very yummy. But what I'll never understand is why the coffee I had throughout Kenya was so bad!!! I mean it was TERRIBLE...watery...nothing compared to Rwanda. Someone please explain!
Also, what's with the Nescafe? It seems that's what EVERYONE served. Please tell me a camp that serves honest to good coffee...I'm going there!
Aug 24th, 2006, 12:15 PM
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I don't recall having watery coffee in Kenya (and we drink very strong French roast at home). Except at one camp where I asked, I don't know what beans were used because it was always brought to us in a thermos or pot. The one time I did ask, they said the coffee was Dorman's which is a local brand. I didn't see Nescafe but I never went into the kitchens either.
