Lucy & Michael's African Adventure: Rwanda and Kenya July 28-August 15
Aug 17th, 2006, 03:40 PM
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Can't wait to hear about your second trip and about Gisenyi. I'm trying to decide if we should go so looking forward to getting some more insight from you. By the way, thanks so much for the info about the buses.
Aug 18th, 2006, 12:42 AM
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Lucia,
I am so sorry your guide spoiled your first trek. He sounds quite the opposite of Francois, our guide to the Amahoros. I'm glad though that your second trek lived up to your original expectations and was memorable in a good way. I can't wait to read all about it.... which group was it?
On the altitude, yes, both myself and Hubby found the altitude affected us a lot but thankfully I had my inhaler which I used as a preventative measure at 'the Wall' before our climb up. Also, on the armed soliders, we too were sceptical about the 'bufallo' explaination but like you, we felt completely safe.
Can't wait to read more!
Imelda
I am so sorry your guide spoiled your first trek. He sounds quite the opposite of Francois, our guide to the Amahoros. I'm glad though that your second trek lived up to your original expectations and was memorable in a good way. I can't wait to read all about it.... which group was it?
On the altitude, yes, both myself and Hubby found the altitude affected us a lot but thankfully I had my inhaler which I used as a preventative measure at 'the Wall' before our climb up. Also, on the armed soliders, we too were sceptical about the 'bufallo' explaination but like you, we felt completely safe.
Can't wait to read more!
Imelda
Aug 18th, 2006, 06:07 AM
#24
I'm really enjoying your report. Sorry the first gorilla experience wasn't the best but I'm glad to hear your second was better. Can't wait to hear about it!
Sorry you had to return to work so quickly (I always have to also) but I'm glad you're taking the time to post this. It's great!
Cindy
Sorry you had to return to work so quickly (I always have to also) but I'm glad you're taking the time to post this. It's great!
Cindy
Aug 18th, 2006, 06:46 AM
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I think I'm feeling anxious and my BP is up reading this. I'm glad your second trek went better for you.
I'm curious, after reading Imelda also say she needed an inhaler - is that a nec. measure for everyone? I don't remember Wayne (of many good tips and details)
saying he needed one.
Look forward to the rest of your trip!
Sherry
I'm curious, after reading Imelda also say she needed an inhaler - is that a nec. measure for everyone? I don't remember Wayne (of many good tips and details)
saying he needed one.Look forward to the rest of your trip!
Sherry
Aug 18th, 2006, 06:49 AM
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RWANDA: GISENYI August 1st and 2nd
We arrive in Gisenyi at 8pm in one piece. We had decided to stay at the Palm Beach Hotel as it seemed the nicest in our price range (at least from the Bradt guide's description). I should warn you that the prices in the Bradt guide are outdated and EVERYTHING is more expensive than written there (with the exception of the Bethanie Guest House in Kibuye). Anyway, we check into the Palm Beach and are assigned a room that makes my boyfriend's face lose color. I think it's fine for a night's sleep for $30, but the sound of the generator, lack of windows and general look of the room, puts him off. He says, how about we check out the Kivu Sun! So we walk next door to the new Kivu Sun, owned by the same people who own the Intercontinental in Kigali. It's BEAUTIFUL. Looks like the 4 seasons to me...and it's $124 per night including breakfast...a lot steeper than our $30 including breakfast. So we haul back over to the Palm Beach at ask Jonathan, our new friend at the front desk, if he has any other rooms available. He shows us the one that's described in the Bradt guide...large double, ensuite bath, HUGE balcony facing the lake! It's really nice, nothing compared to the Kivu Sun, but definitely a omfortable beachy room. But we just can't do it for $65. Michael asks if there any other rooms besides ours for $30, turns out Jonathan misheard and that thought we wanted a room with a KING bed, not simply a double. So off we go to our new room. Perfect! It has windows, hot water, a double bed and it's $30. It's a little tatty. But as everything in Rwanda is, it's exceedingly clean. The floor is stained and there is plastic garden furniture in the room, but the sheets are so clean and the floor has no dust or dirt on it anywhere. I have to say that Rwanda wins for cheap and CLEAN accommodations. And it doesn't smell like a Motel 6. Anyway, we stay there and huddle under our too small mosquito net that night. We had dinner at the restaurant too, which we are told is one of the nicest, poshest in Gisenyi. It was good. My tilapia curry was terrific. Word to the wise, stick with tilapia in Rwanda. They rarely have pork or beef (even though it's on their menu) and the chicken has very little meat and lots of bones. I ate tilapia every night for 10 nights and I was definitely satified (plus it comes from Lake Kivu). Anyway, the next day we got up and decided to explore Gisenyi.
We walk down to the beach and it's hard to tell that this is a lake, you just can't see the other side! To my right in the distance is what looks like a nice hotel. I ask Michael if we can walk down the road and check it out. So off we go, sticking to the road that runs along the beach. We can't get over the houses! I've seen nothing like these anywhere in Rwanda...they are MANSIONS! And they all have barbed wire. We start getting curious, why barbed wire here? But we continue. We walk for sometime, but we still haven't hit that hotel that I saw in the distance. And then, we stop. We're looking at Congo. Opps! We look at eachother and decide whether we want to spend the $30 for a visa to go in. We heard Goma was fascinating and the UN presence is everywhere so now would be the time, but money is precious and is it really worth the risk? We'd heard too many stories. So instead we just chill with the immigration guard for a while and observe the activity going several feet from us in the DRC.
We then head back and walk through Gisenyi town. We head to the market, a great place to buy fabrics if you're looking to have clothes or a tablecloth (as I was) made. Just keep your wits about you in the market. Good to know some Kiniyandra too, makes people more at ease with you. We check email, Michael buys a meal from a lady's restaurant/house. He disobeys ALL CDC recommendations about where to eat and using tap water for brushing teeth...he claims this makes his body immune from infection. I lost this battle a long time ago...and I have to admit he definitely gets a better sense of life and people by eating where most people eat. Anyway, we head back to the Palm for dinner and start talking with 2 Dutch couples who are visiting. Turns out that they lived in Gisenyi as children, their father was a minister, and they were evacuated in 1990 when there were rumors of the genocide. Their parents worked in the camps and this is their first trip back. We tell them about Mme. Carr, the 94 year old American woman who runs an orphanage now near Gisenyi. They can't believe she's still here and now runs an orphangage! As children they spent time with her. So we're glad we're able to make that connection.
Meanwhile, we're trying to decide how we're going to get to Kibuye the next day. This decision becomes ALL CONSUMING for the next 12 hours! And I think everyone at the Palm got involved. But I'll have to write about that later as I now have to get on a plane to Boston for a wedding I am in tomorrow. I'm supposed to give a speech tonight and I still haven't written it so I must stop writing this trip report now.
Next stop--Gisenyi to Kibuye
We arrive in Gisenyi at 8pm in one piece. We had decided to stay at the Palm Beach Hotel as it seemed the nicest in our price range (at least from the Bradt guide's description). I should warn you that the prices in the Bradt guide are outdated and EVERYTHING is more expensive than written there (with the exception of the Bethanie Guest House in Kibuye). Anyway, we check into the Palm Beach and are assigned a room that makes my boyfriend's face lose color. I think it's fine for a night's sleep for $30, but the sound of the generator, lack of windows and general look of the room, puts him off. He says, how about we check out the Kivu Sun! So we walk next door to the new Kivu Sun, owned by the same people who own the Intercontinental in Kigali. It's BEAUTIFUL. Looks like the 4 seasons to me...and it's $124 per night including breakfast...a lot steeper than our $30 including breakfast. So we haul back over to the Palm Beach at ask Jonathan, our new friend at the front desk, if he has any other rooms available. He shows us the one that's described in the Bradt guide...large double, ensuite bath, HUGE balcony facing the lake! It's really nice, nothing compared to the Kivu Sun, but definitely a omfortable beachy room. But we just can't do it for $65. Michael asks if there any other rooms besides ours for $30, turns out Jonathan misheard and that thought we wanted a room with a KING bed, not simply a double. So off we go to our new room. Perfect! It has windows, hot water, a double bed and it's $30. It's a little tatty. But as everything in Rwanda is, it's exceedingly clean. The floor is stained and there is plastic garden furniture in the room, but the sheets are so clean and the floor has no dust or dirt on it anywhere. I have to say that Rwanda wins for cheap and CLEAN accommodations. And it doesn't smell like a Motel 6. Anyway, we stay there and huddle under our too small mosquito net that night. We had dinner at the restaurant too, which we are told is one of the nicest, poshest in Gisenyi. It was good. My tilapia curry was terrific. Word to the wise, stick with tilapia in Rwanda. They rarely have pork or beef (even though it's on their menu) and the chicken has very little meat and lots of bones. I ate tilapia every night for 10 nights and I was definitely satified (plus it comes from Lake Kivu). Anyway, the next day we got up and decided to explore Gisenyi.
We walk down to the beach and it's hard to tell that this is a lake, you just can't see the other side! To my right in the distance is what looks like a nice hotel. I ask Michael if we can walk down the road and check it out. So off we go, sticking to the road that runs along the beach. We can't get over the houses! I've seen nothing like these anywhere in Rwanda...they are MANSIONS! And they all have barbed wire. We start getting curious, why barbed wire here? But we continue. We walk for sometime, but we still haven't hit that hotel that I saw in the distance. And then, we stop. We're looking at Congo. Opps! We look at eachother and decide whether we want to spend the $30 for a visa to go in. We heard Goma was fascinating and the UN presence is everywhere so now would be the time, but money is precious and is it really worth the risk? We'd heard too many stories. So instead we just chill with the immigration guard for a while and observe the activity going several feet from us in the DRC.
We then head back and walk through Gisenyi town. We head to the market, a great place to buy fabrics if you're looking to have clothes or a tablecloth (as I was) made. Just keep your wits about you in the market. Good to know some Kiniyandra too, makes people more at ease with you. We check email, Michael buys a meal from a lady's restaurant/house. He disobeys ALL CDC recommendations about where to eat and using tap water for brushing teeth...he claims this makes his body immune from infection. I lost this battle a long time ago...and I have to admit he definitely gets a better sense of life and people by eating where most people eat. Anyway, we head back to the Palm for dinner and start talking with 2 Dutch couples who are visiting. Turns out that they lived in Gisenyi as children, their father was a minister, and they were evacuated in 1990 when there were rumors of the genocide. Their parents worked in the camps and this is their first trip back. We tell them about Mme. Carr, the 94 year old American woman who runs an orphanage now near Gisenyi. They can't believe she's still here and now runs an orphangage! As children they spent time with her. So we're glad we're able to make that connection.
Meanwhile, we're trying to decide how we're going to get to Kibuye the next day. This decision becomes ALL CONSUMING for the next 12 hours! And I think everyone at the Palm got involved. But I'll have to write about that later as I now have to get on a plane to Boston for a wedding I am in tomorrow. I'm supposed to give a speech tonight and I still haven't written it so I must stop writing this trip report now.
Next stop--Gisenyi to Kibuye
Aug 18th, 2006, 06:53 AM
#27
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Sherry--I have asthma, so that's why the altitude was hard for me not having acclimitized. The eucalyptus made a big difference though. If you are worried, request a group that is at a lower altitude. Honestly, my second trek was much better for my lungs as I had acclimitized and they were closer. Don't worry too much about it, I saw many different people coming to do the trek. Including one lady who asked for the Susa group who we called Smokey Smokes A lot. She was wearing an irresdient track suit, slip on sneakers, long hair down, and she chained smoked for the hour while we were being assigned. She I was worried about! Oh and the woman in flip flops who did the Sabinyo group Just so you know there was a 70 year old woman, who was not in shape, who did the Susa group with us. It was hard for her, but boy we were proud and she proud of herself at the end.
Just so you know there was a 70 year old woman, who was not in shape, who did the Susa group with us. It was hard for her, but boy we were proud and she proud of herself at the end.
Aug 18th, 2006, 08:14 AM
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I don't have asthma, but I was feeling pretty awful on my first day of trekking. I definitely think I am more susceptible to altitude issues than my wife. I think if you have high blood pressure you are more likely to have problems. No one told me about the eucalyptus. But I did hide how bad I was feeling.
When I was in Cuzco, Peru, someone gave me some "Inca Mint" to sniff. That was wonderful
Yes rooms in Rwanda were always clean and smelled fine. I must give them that.
Agree on the tilapia. It is wonderful. Though I did have chicken twice at the Bethanie Guest House. All of their French food was GREAT.
Congo border: I wanted so badly to get a Congo stamp on my passport. I was going to literally just go through the station, get stamped, stand in Congo for 30 seconds and come back, but I had a sneaking feeling they wouldn't let me leave that easily And YES there were some incredible houses on that border. I really forgot I was in Rwanda.
When I was in Cuzco, Peru, someone gave me some "Inca Mint" to sniff. That was wonderful
Yes rooms in Rwanda were always clean and smelled fine. I must give them that.
Agree on the tilapia. It is wonderful. Though I did have chicken twice at the Bethanie Guest House. All of their French food was GREAT.
Congo border: I wanted so badly to get a Congo stamp on my passport. I was going to literally just go through the station, get stamped, stand in Congo for 30 seconds and come back, but I had a sneaking feeling they wouldn't let me leave that easily
And YES there were some incredible houses on that border. I really forgot I was in Rwanda.
Aug 18th, 2006, 10:03 AM
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Thanks for answering about the inhaler. I really don't have a BP issue and am in (semi)decent shape so it's good to know that an inhaler is not nec.
I guess my BP analogy wasn't such a good one. I just should have said that I was feeling Lucy's anx.
The 3 of you (Lucy, Imelda and Wayne) are a mil. times better than a guide book. Consider yourselves a public service. =D>
Sherry
I guess my BP analogy wasn't such a good one. I just should have said that I was feeling Lucy's anx.
The 3 of you (Lucy, Imelda and Wayne) are a mil. times better than a guide book. Consider yourselves a public service. =D>
Sherry
Aug 21st, 2006, 06:13 AM
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GISENYI-KIBUYE-KIGALI August 3-6
While in Gisenyi we learned that the road from Gisenyi to Kibuye was awful and that even in a 4x4 it could take 5-7 hours. Plus, we didn't have a 4x4 and were planning on taking a matatu. Now I matatu was out of the question for me---I didn't want to be crammed in a vehicle for 5-7 hours without a chance to pee or get out and stretch my legs! So after researching how much a 4x4 would cost, my boyfriend started researching into taking a boat from Gisenyi to Kibuye through the waters of Lake Kivu. We called numerous companies that were listed in the Bradt guide and many didn't operate anymore. We called the Bethanie Guest House (where we would be staying in Kibuye) and they gave us a quote of $350. No way! Our only option was the Stipp Hotels whose best prices was $180...still very steep and I wasn't too happy about it...but we'd get a boat ride and get there in 1 hour 45 minutes, opposed to 5-7 hours!
The Boat Ride from Gisenyi to Kibuye is something I highly recommend. The price was worth it as the scenary was stunning (I've also heard that the scenary along the bumpy drive as breathtaking). We were the only ones on the lake and had an inflatable boat with a motor. As we watched Gisenyi get smaller, we realized how large the volcano behind us really was (the one that inflicted such damage to Goma). Finally we reached Kibuye. I cannot say enough good things about this little lakeside town. YOU MUST GO!!! We stayed at the Bethanie Guest House which was lovely. For $12 we had a first floor room (there are levels to this inn-like hotel) with direct, unobstructed view of the lake. We had a patio, double bed room with hot water and TV. This was like paradise. The food at the hotel was also quite reasonable and of good quality. They could EASILY charge much more as there aren't many other options on places to eat. During the day we walked from the hotel to town, up to the Church (a genocide memorial where 11,000 people were killed) and back down to the Bethanie Guest House. You can also swim in the waters of Lake Kivu. This is a wonderful place to relax for a few days and I'd score it much higher than Gisenyi (although not as easy to get to from the PNV...but VERY easy to get to from Kigali).
We had two nights in Kibuye and then took a matatu back to Kigali (which only took 2 hours). Be be aware the road from Kibuye to Gitarama is VERY windy and locals are known to even throw up on this matatu. Half and ambien later and I didn't have a care in the world...but just be prepared.
The scenary is magnificent though on the drive back! That night we stayed (once again) at the Milles Collines. I had a $10 massage there with Odette...probably the best massage I've had in my life. It's not the most relaxing setting...but for $10 your muscles will love you after your gorilla trek.
In Kigali we decided to do some souvenir shopping. We went to Kimilongo Market...took a motorbike there for $1. At the back of this market are lots of fabrics (for clothes or tablecloths...I had a tablecloth and 12 napkins made), wooden sculptures, wooden wall panels, baskets...etc. for reasonable prices. We enjoyed our time there and met some lovely people. Then we returned to the city centre to take the Virunga Bus back up to Ruhengeri for another night at the Murhabura before our final gorilla trek.
Next up: Hirwa Group and onward flight to Nairobi to begin safari.
While in Gisenyi we learned that the road from Gisenyi to Kibuye was awful and that even in a 4x4 it could take 5-7 hours. Plus, we didn't have a 4x4 and were planning on taking a matatu. Now I matatu was out of the question for me---I didn't want to be crammed in a vehicle for 5-7 hours without a chance to pee or get out and stretch my legs! So after researching how much a 4x4 would cost, my boyfriend started researching into taking a boat from Gisenyi to Kibuye through the waters of Lake Kivu. We called numerous companies that were listed in the Bradt guide and many didn't operate anymore. We called the Bethanie Guest House (where we would be staying in Kibuye) and they gave us a quote of $350. No way! Our only option was the Stipp Hotels whose best prices was $180...still very steep and I wasn't too happy about it...but we'd get a boat ride and get there in 1 hour 45 minutes, opposed to 5-7 hours!
The Boat Ride from Gisenyi to Kibuye is something I highly recommend. The price was worth it as the scenary was stunning (I've also heard that the scenary along the bumpy drive as breathtaking). We were the only ones on the lake and had an inflatable boat with a motor. As we watched Gisenyi get smaller, we realized how large the volcano behind us really was (the one that inflicted such damage to Goma). Finally we reached Kibuye. I cannot say enough good things about this little lakeside town. YOU MUST GO!!! We stayed at the Bethanie Guest House which was lovely. For $12 we had a first floor room (there are levels to this inn-like hotel) with direct, unobstructed view of the lake. We had a patio, double bed room with hot water and TV. This was like paradise. The food at the hotel was also quite reasonable and of good quality. They could EASILY charge much more as there aren't many other options on places to eat. During the day we walked from the hotel to town, up to the Church (a genocide memorial where 11,000 people were killed) and back down to the Bethanie Guest House. You can also swim in the waters of Lake Kivu. This is a wonderful place to relax for a few days and I'd score it much higher than Gisenyi (although not as easy to get to from the PNV...but VERY easy to get to from Kigali).
We had two nights in Kibuye and then took a matatu back to Kigali (which only took 2 hours). Be be aware the road from Kibuye to Gitarama is VERY windy and locals are known to even throw up on this matatu. Half and ambien later and I didn't have a care in the world...but just be prepared.
The scenary is magnificent though on the drive back! That night we stayed (once again) at the Milles Collines. I had a $10 massage there with Odette...probably the best massage I've had in my life. It's not the most relaxing setting...but for $10 your muscles will love you after your gorilla trek.
In Kigali we decided to do some souvenir shopping. We went to Kimilongo Market...took a motorbike there for $1. At the back of this market are lots of fabrics (for clothes or tablecloths...I had a tablecloth and 12 napkins made), wooden sculptures, wooden wall panels, baskets...etc. for reasonable prices. We enjoyed our time there and met some lovely people. Then we returned to the city centre to take the Virunga Bus back up to Ruhengeri for another night at the Murhabura before our final gorilla trek.
Next up: Hirwa Group and onward flight to Nairobi to begin safari.
Aug 21st, 2006, 07:58 AM
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Hey Lucy,
Yes, Kibuye is a nice resort town... or at least the area aroudn the Bethanie Guest House area is.
After staying one night in the bunker of the ORPTN guest house & getting beaten to a pulp in Nyungwe, the Bethanie Guest House was great... even though when we arrived there was a power outage and the number of geckos was overwhelming!
But the food was just wonderful. I had two different chicken dishes and a seafood bisque.
We didn't go out on the Lake at all, but the view was beautiful and the staff at the restaurant was great.
You did skip out on an awful road, but there are also some incredible views.
Yes, Kibuye is a nice resort town... or at least the area aroudn the Bethanie Guest House area is.
After staying one night in the bunker of the ORPTN guest house & getting beaten to a pulp in Nyungwe, the Bethanie Guest House was great... even though when we arrived there was a power outage and the number of geckos was overwhelming!
But the food was just wonderful. I had two different chicken dishes and a seafood bisque.
We didn't go out on the Lake at all, but the view was beautiful and the staff at the restaurant was great.
You did skip out on an awful road, but there are also some incredible views.
Aug 22nd, 2006, 10:07 AM
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2nd GORILLA TREK: HIRWA GROUP August 7th
Well after my first experience with the Susa group, I was anxious about seeing the gorillas a second time. It felt like so much money. But my boyfriend convinced me to do it and I didn't really want to just hang out in Ruhengeri waiting for him to get back. So we woke up again at 5am for our 6am bumpy ride to the PNV headquarters. Only this time it wasn't so bumpy! Turns out there's a better road that is currently under construction (though there still are quite bumpy bits, just not for as long as the other road).
We got to the PNV headquarters and told the head ranger that we had to get back to Kigali tonight by bus (the last one leaves Ruhengeri at 6pm) so we'd really appreciate being assigned to a close group. Secretly we were hoping for the Amahoro Group, or Group 13 (since they have the most babies and I ADORE gorilla babies).
Instead we were assigned to the Hirwa Group, a relatively new group that was formed when a silverback from Sabinyo broke off and took some females from several groups. The group has 1 silverback, 5 females (one is currently pregnant) and 2 babies. One baby is 1 month, the other is 2 months.
We were a little disappointed that this group only had 8 members. What we didn't know then was how lucky we were to have Francois Bigirimana as our guide and how DIFFERENT this trek would be. The drive to the start was difficult as all the vehicles from Primate Safaris and Volcanoe Safaris kept getting stuck in the mud (our little toyota pickup had some great tires though!). Finally we just got out and walked the rest of the way.
Francois, our guide, was FABULOUS. He was funny, comforting and incredibly knowledgable. He told us all about the farmland as we hiked up to the wall (which only took around 30-45 minutes). After we entered the park, we learned about the gorilla habitat and food...and had ample opportunity to try celery, other twigs and vegetation and use the squash as soap.
When we finally spotted the gorillas, after climbing through bamboo, mud and over creeks...Francois eased us in. The gorillas seemed so comfortable with us and with him---like they knew we weren't a threat. We watched one female eat, about 2 feet from us, for 10 minutes. We then moved on and sat 3 feet from the silverback as he devoured endless amounts of thistle. We then went in search of the babies. In the meantime, an entire tree fell down as a gorilla's weight while climbing it brought it down.
Finally we spotted the 1 month old with its mother. For the rest of the hour, we were transfixed on this pair...who sat and played and nursed only 3 feet from us! What a cutie with a huge head of hair. The mother patted her head, which Francois told us meant they were playing and the baby climbed all over its mama. We also watched one of the other females pick grass and dirt off the silverback.
This hour was so different from my last and I didn't want to leave them...yet at the same time it felt right to give them their space. What incredible, peaceful creatures. When you look at them, it is like looking at a human.
We got back to Ruhengeri by 1pm, so much better than the 6:30pm return from the Susa trek. We made the 4pm bus back to Kigali for our last stay at the Milles Collines before our a.m. flight to Nairobi the next day to start our Safari in Nakuru and the Masai Mara.
For all of those considering going to or going to Rwanda...ask for Francois. He was such a great guide!
Also, go to Kibuye and try to spend more time in Rwanda besides at the PNV. Too many people only see the gorillas and miss out on such a fascinating country. While the gorillas were terrific, my most salient memories from Rwanda will actually be riding a matatu and listening to the same song over and over, having dinner at the top of the Milles Collines, the boat ride from Gisenyi to Kibuye, having a tablecloth made in Kimilongo and discussing life with the women shopkeepers there, and watching the sunset with a Primus from my deck at the Bethanie Hotel in Kibuye. Rwanda was more than I was ever expecting and I hope to return...if only for the coffee
Next: Kenya Safari with Gamewatchers
Well after my first experience with the Susa group, I was anxious about seeing the gorillas a second time. It felt like so much money. But my boyfriend convinced me to do it and I didn't really want to just hang out in Ruhengeri waiting for him to get back. So we woke up again at 5am for our 6am bumpy ride to the PNV headquarters. Only this time it wasn't so bumpy! Turns out there's a better road that is currently under construction (though there still are quite bumpy bits, just not for as long as the other road).
We got to the PNV headquarters and told the head ranger that we had to get back to Kigali tonight by bus (the last one leaves Ruhengeri at 6pm) so we'd really appreciate being assigned to a close group. Secretly we were hoping for the Amahoro Group, or Group 13 (since they have the most babies and I ADORE gorilla babies).
Instead we were assigned to the Hirwa Group, a relatively new group that was formed when a silverback from Sabinyo broke off and took some females from several groups. The group has 1 silverback, 5 females (one is currently pregnant) and 2 babies. One baby is 1 month, the other is 2 months.
We were a little disappointed that this group only had 8 members. What we didn't know then was how lucky we were to have Francois Bigirimana as our guide and how DIFFERENT this trek would be. The drive to the start was difficult as all the vehicles from Primate Safaris and Volcanoe Safaris kept getting stuck in the mud (our little toyota pickup had some great tires though!). Finally we just got out and walked the rest of the way.
Francois, our guide, was FABULOUS. He was funny, comforting and incredibly knowledgable. He told us all about the farmland as we hiked up to the wall (which only took around 30-45 minutes). After we entered the park, we learned about the gorilla habitat and food...and had ample opportunity to try celery, other twigs and vegetation and use the squash as soap.
When we finally spotted the gorillas, after climbing through bamboo, mud and over creeks...Francois eased us in. The gorillas seemed so comfortable with us and with him---like they knew we weren't a threat. We watched one female eat, about 2 feet from us, for 10 minutes. We then moved on and sat 3 feet from the silverback as he devoured endless amounts of thistle. We then went in search of the babies. In the meantime, an entire tree fell down as a gorilla's weight while climbing it brought it down.
Finally we spotted the 1 month old with its mother. For the rest of the hour, we were transfixed on this pair...who sat and played and nursed only 3 feet from us! What a cutie with a huge head of hair. The mother patted her head, which Francois told us meant they were playing and the baby climbed all over its mama. We also watched one of the other females pick grass and dirt off the silverback.
This hour was so different from my last and I didn't want to leave them...yet at the same time it felt right to give them their space. What incredible, peaceful creatures. When you look at them, it is like looking at a human.
We got back to Ruhengeri by 1pm, so much better than the 6:30pm return from the Susa trek. We made the 4pm bus back to Kigali for our last stay at the Milles Collines before our a.m. flight to Nairobi the next day to start our Safari in Nakuru and the Masai Mara.
For all of those considering going to or going to Rwanda...ask for Francois. He was such a great guide!
Also, go to Kibuye and try to spend more time in Rwanda besides at the PNV. Too many people only see the gorillas and miss out on such a fascinating country. While the gorillas were terrific, my most salient memories from Rwanda will actually be riding a matatu and listening to the same song over and over, having dinner at the top of the Milles Collines, the boat ride from Gisenyi to Kibuye, having a tablecloth made in Kimilongo and discussing life with the women shopkeepers there, and watching the sunset with a Primus from my deck at the Bethanie Hotel in Kibuye. Rwanda was more than I was ever expecting and I hope to return...if only for the coffee
Next: Kenya Safari with Gamewatchers
Aug 22nd, 2006, 10:22 AM
#36
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I'm glad your second trek was much better! I think your report is the first to have mentioned the importance of the guide and how that affected your enjoyment of the trek. It adds another consideration that I'd never thought of. Are the same guides usually assigned to the same groups or do they rotate between groups?
Can't wait for the Kenya portion!
Can't wait for the Kenya portion!
Aug 22nd, 2006, 10:44 AM
#37
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Patty--the guides always rotate. And I must say that after coming home and realizing what a celebrity Francois is, I wonder whether the warden would honor requests for him...but always worth a shot! After googling him...it seems he is always the one assigned to high-profile visits...Daryl Hannah, Bill Gates, etc. etc. Plus he helps with the MGVP (the Vet group) and the Karisoke Research Center AND Dian Fossey.
One other observation which I don't remember is I mentioned earlier. I was set on visiting the Susa group. I felt like it was a waste to go all the way there for such a short hike. I WANTED the long hike and to see more of the scenery. HOWEVER...now I think the shorter hike is better as you are less exhausted when you finally see the gorillas. Just a random thought...
One other observation which I don't remember is I mentioned earlier. I was set on visiting the Susa group. I felt like it was a waste to go all the way there for such a short hike. I WANTED the long hike and to see more of the scenery. HOWEVER...now I think the shorter hike is better as you are less exhausted when you finally see the gorillas. Just a random thought...
Aug 22nd, 2006, 11:11 AM
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Lucia,
What a wonderful take on Rwanda! I am glad your second trek went better. I would have been bummed for you if it didn't.
Good for that Hirwa silverback for breaking away. The lead Silverback in Sabinyo is called Guhundra. he is the biggest silverback in PNV and seems to have no intention of giving up his position any time soon.
waynehazle DOT com/eastafrica/rwanda/
I guess it is not the quantity of gorillas, but the quality and yes the guide will make or break the trek.
For anyone who is going, if you get this guy, whose name I think was Richard, you are in good hands:
waynehazle DOT com/eastafrica/rwanda/digital_volcanoes/100_2257.html
waynehazle DOT com/eastafrica/rwanda/digital_volcanoes/100_2357.html
I don't remember this guy's name. I don't remember him beign particularily good or bad. I was thrilled with the Sabinyo's and they were in an open clearing, so he didn't need to do much
waynehazle DOT com/eastafrica/rwanda/digital_volcanoes/100_2400.html
I am glad you got to see more of Rwanda than just the gorillas. There is so much more to the country. On the Asia board, when people are headed to see Angkor Wat, I try to encourage them to get around the rest of Cambodia too.
I too will always remember my time at the Bethanie Guest house having seafood bisque and staring out at the water.
What a wonderful take on Rwanda! I am glad your second trek went better. I would have been bummed for you if it didn't.
Good for that Hirwa silverback for breaking away. The lead Silverback in Sabinyo is called Guhundra. he is the biggest silverback in PNV and seems to have no intention of giving up his position any time soon.
waynehazle DOT com/eastafrica/rwanda/
I guess it is not the quantity of gorillas, but the quality and yes the guide will make or break the trek.
For anyone who is going, if you get this guy, whose name I think was Richard, you are in good hands:
waynehazle DOT com/eastafrica/rwanda/digital_volcanoes/100_2257.html
waynehazle DOT com/eastafrica/rwanda/digital_volcanoes/100_2357.html
I don't remember this guy's name. I don't remember him beign particularily good or bad. I was thrilled with the Sabinyo's and they were in an open clearing, so he didn't need to do much
waynehazle DOT com/eastafrica/rwanda/digital_volcanoes/100_2400.html
I am glad you got to see more of Rwanda than just the gorillas. There is so much more to the country. On the Asia board, when people are headed to see Angkor Wat, I try to encourage them to get around the rest of Cambodia too.
I too will always remember my time at the Bethanie Guest house having seafood bisque and staring out at the water.
Aug 22nd, 2006, 01:04 PM
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Hey Lucia,
Since you mentioned it in another thread I will post it here. Please tell me about your boyfriend's experience in Nyungwe.
Sounds like he like ORPTN better than I did, but also found Nyungwe strenous.
Since you mentioned it in another thread I will post it here. Please tell me about your boyfriend's experience in Nyungwe.
Sounds like he like ORPTN better than I did, but also found Nyungwe strenous.
