Doohickey's Tanzania Safari March '07 Trip Report
Mar 27th, 2008, 06:17 PM
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Thanks for your comments davgai1 and Patty. I'm happy to hear my report transports you.
I have safaried vicariously many times since I came upon the trip report thread that Lynda put together. I have been "in the moment" with many of those reports to the point of being sad when the trip came to an end
There are a bunch of really talented writers writing trip reports!
Judith
I have safaried vicariously many times since I came upon the trip report thread that Lynda put together. I have been "in the moment" with many of those reports to the point of being sad when the trip came to an end
There are a bunch of really talented writers writing trip reports!Judith
Mar 28th, 2008, 04:24 AM
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Saturday, March 15
As usual this morning, because were changing camps, we settled our bar tab, gave the tip envelope to the manager and quietly gave Montana gifts to a person or two who had been particulary kind to us or had personally touched us in some way. We’d been doing this upon leaving each camp and now Murdoch’s Ranch & Home Supply t-shirts, ball caps and some Yellowstone Nat’l Park ball camps are scattered around Tanzania. We gave the entire bag of miniature toy animals (Holstien steer, bison, wolf, moose, elk…) and miniature toy John Deere farm equipment to the Maasai guard at our Ngorongoro camp for the children in his village.
We set out from Elmakati at 830a coming upon a sleeping lioness and four teenager lions who were awake and playful with one another. Then we went to a nearby lake and watched the birds, especially flamingos and storks for a while. They were so pretty and graceful and their behavior fascinating. This was a very peaceful place I could have hung around for hours at. But we left because I really hoped to see cheetahs on this trip and though Adam was working hard to find some for me we had had no success yet.
I think this was the morning that one of those dang tse tse flies flew in my mouth. Eeeeew, gross! John was wondering what I was violently sputtering about in the back of the Landy. I was spitting that darned thing out and making sure it was good and gone. Yuk! But, hey, whatcha gonna do? You just smile, forget about it and keep on going
At one point during our search for cheetahs we were following a moderately muddy path (not even close to as muddy as the day before) when a Land Cruiser in front of us turned around and began to go back. The driver stopped to chat with Adam for a bit. Apparently the conditions were too poor for his vehicle to safely continue. I was so surprised. This track was nothing to us. It was this LC driver, too, or another that same day who told Adam that he had tried to follow the same route to the migration that we had but had had to call it off because of the road conditions.
This is what I don’t get – Why do so many people want to go on safari in Land Cruisers if they aren’t very nimble and sure-footed on the roads? Time after time John and I saw for ourselves that they have problems in anything even moderately wet. Are the LCs really plush and comfy inside or something? Our Landy had certainly seen better days but John and I were comfortable and very confident that Adam could get us to where we wanted to go even under appalling road conditions.
Hmmm, maybe someone can pipe in here and shed a bit more understanding on the Land Rover v. Land Cruiser issue for me.
Anyway, we made our way to our final camp for the next two nights, Thomson’s Robanda Camp not far outside the Ikoma gate in the western Serengeti. Nice camp! Pretty awesome really. 18 tents in a boomerang layout with a dining, bar and lounge structure at the apex. The common structure was on a concrete base with a palapa-style roof. It was quite large, roomy and very comfortable. The camp faces southeast and the netted “walls” of the palapa were open on three sides. During one of dinners there we had a driving rainstorm with thunder and lightning. The staff lowered the flaps to keep the horizontal rain out. We also later found they had done this for our personal tent as well.
The staff situated the group of 8 on one arm of the boomerang and John and me on the other. I appreciated the arrangements as it gave us distance from one another. I immediately turned over my remaining laundry for washing. And after a huge buffet lunch I went back to our tent and washed out a few smalls, the staff having provided me with a bucket of warm water at my request.
That afternoon I found a big spider on the backside of one of our door curtains inside the tent. I’m telling you, this sucker was 2” across!! Oooh, whee! I jumped for that electric fly swatter and nailed him. It took three zaps before it stopped moving. Then I made like the carcass was a hockey puck and knocked it outside our tent. In a few minutes it was gone; I think one of the birds had a nice filling lunch.
At about 5p we set out on a bush walk with Adam and a guard, a local fellow from Ikoma village in fatigues and jump boots carrying bow and poison arrows. Yikes! In 1 ˝ hours of walking we spotted a whopping 11 new species of birds, 2 kinds of ants on impressive moves and animal tracks galore – hyena, zebra, baboon, impala, jackal and maribou stork. John also spied a black back jackal checking us out. Adam carried his birding books in his new backpack and pulled them out off and on to help identify a couple of obscure birds. Our guard was into this bird business as well though I sometimes thought he should be keeping a bit more of an eye out for the stuff that might want to eat us.
The sunset was incredible – like fire in the sky. Dinner was very nice. But, much to my consternation, the cessastion of my TD had also brought just plain cessation. Now I was uncomfortable in a whole ‘nother way. Argghh! The next day was to be our last full day of safari. I still hadn’t seen any cheetah or leopard. I hoped something would happen soon!
Next up – Breaking loose, a robbery scare, and “To the trees!”
As usual this morning, because were changing camps, we settled our bar tab, gave the tip envelope to the manager and quietly gave Montana gifts to a person or two who had been particulary kind to us or had personally touched us in some way. We’d been doing this upon leaving each camp and now Murdoch’s Ranch & Home Supply t-shirts, ball caps and some Yellowstone Nat’l Park ball camps are scattered around Tanzania. We gave the entire bag of miniature toy animals (Holstien steer, bison, wolf, moose, elk…) and miniature toy John Deere farm equipment to the Maasai guard at our Ngorongoro camp for the children in his village.
We set out from Elmakati at 830a coming upon a sleeping lioness and four teenager lions who were awake and playful with one another. Then we went to a nearby lake and watched the birds, especially flamingos and storks for a while. They were so pretty and graceful and their behavior fascinating. This was a very peaceful place I could have hung around for hours at. But we left because I really hoped to see cheetahs on this trip and though Adam was working hard to find some for me we had had no success yet.
I think this was the morning that one of those dang tse tse flies flew in my mouth. Eeeeew, gross! John was wondering what I was violently sputtering about in the back of the Landy. I was spitting that darned thing out and making sure it was good and gone. Yuk! But, hey, whatcha gonna do? You just smile, forget about it and keep on going
At one point during our search for cheetahs we were following a moderately muddy path (not even close to as muddy as the day before) when a Land Cruiser in front of us turned around and began to go back. The driver stopped to chat with Adam for a bit. Apparently the conditions were too poor for his vehicle to safely continue. I was so surprised. This track was nothing to us. It was this LC driver, too, or another that same day who told Adam that he had tried to follow the same route to the migration that we had but had had to call it off because of the road conditions.
This is what I don’t get – Why do so many people want to go on safari in Land Cruisers if they aren’t very nimble and sure-footed on the roads? Time after time John and I saw for ourselves that they have problems in anything even moderately wet. Are the LCs really plush and comfy inside or something? Our Landy had certainly seen better days but John and I were comfortable and very confident that Adam could get us to where we wanted to go even under appalling road conditions.
Hmmm, maybe someone can pipe in here and shed a bit more understanding on the Land Rover v. Land Cruiser issue for me.
Anyway, we made our way to our final camp for the next two nights, Thomson’s Robanda Camp not far outside the Ikoma gate in the western Serengeti. Nice camp! Pretty awesome really. 18 tents in a boomerang layout with a dining, bar and lounge structure at the apex. The common structure was on a concrete base with a palapa-style roof. It was quite large, roomy and very comfortable. The camp faces southeast and the netted “walls” of the palapa were open on three sides. During one of dinners there we had a driving rainstorm with thunder and lightning. The staff lowered the flaps to keep the horizontal rain out. We also later found they had done this for our personal tent as well.
The staff situated the group of 8 on one arm of the boomerang and John and me on the other. I appreciated the arrangements as it gave us distance from one another. I immediately turned over my remaining laundry for washing. And after a huge buffet lunch I went back to our tent and washed out a few smalls, the staff having provided me with a bucket of warm water at my request.
That afternoon I found a big spider on the backside of one of our door curtains inside the tent. I’m telling you, this sucker was 2” across!! Oooh, whee! I jumped for that electric fly swatter and nailed him. It took three zaps before it stopped moving. Then I made like the carcass was a hockey puck and knocked it outside our tent. In a few minutes it was gone; I think one of the birds had a nice filling lunch.
At about 5p we set out on a bush walk with Adam and a guard, a local fellow from Ikoma village in fatigues and jump boots carrying bow and poison arrows. Yikes! In 1 ˝ hours of walking we spotted a whopping 11 new species of birds, 2 kinds of ants on impressive moves and animal tracks galore – hyena, zebra, baboon, impala, jackal and maribou stork. John also spied a black back jackal checking us out. Adam carried his birding books in his new backpack and pulled them out off and on to help identify a couple of obscure birds. Our guard was into this bird business as well though I sometimes thought he should be keeping a bit more of an eye out for the stuff that might want to eat us.
The sunset was incredible – like fire in the sky. Dinner was very nice. But, much to my consternation, the cessastion of my TD had also brought just plain cessation. Now I was uncomfortable in a whole ‘nother way. Argghh! The next day was to be our last full day of safari. I still hadn’t seen any cheetah or leopard. I hoped something would happen soon!
Next up – Breaking loose, a robbery scare, and “To the trees!”
Mar 28th, 2008, 12:24 PM
#26
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Leely and Lynn:
Thank you both for your comments and observations. I just noticed I accidentally didn't acknowledge them! Your input matters to me greatly along with all the others.
More will trip report postings will come this weekend. We're still working on our photos - including ones of our tents, inside and out - and hope to have them available for viewing within the next week.
Cheers!
-doo (Judith)
Thank you both for your comments and observations. I just noticed I accidentally didn't acknowledge them! Your input matters to me greatly along with all the others.
More will trip report postings will come this weekend. We're still working on our photos - including ones of our tents, inside and out - and hope to have them available for viewing within the next week.
Cheers!
-doo (Judith)
Mar 28th, 2008, 01:28 PM
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I really prefer the Land Rover too over the Cruiser, but just about everyone else but Thomson uses the Cruiser now. You see very few on safari these days. Ranger Safaris, the biggest in TZ is phasing out theirs and only use them on request. Nobody is ordering new ones that I'm aware of.
Thomson takes extremely good care of theirs and keep them in tip top shape all the time. They operate their own garage.
It's my understanding that the Cruiser is a much cheaper vehicle to purchase by a third of the price and also much easier to maintain. It doesn't brake down as much either and can take more abuse. However, the Cruiser doesn't stand a chance on wet black cotton soil, as you found out Judith, like the Rovers do. A Rover can pull out 3 stuck Cruisers at the same time!!!
The driver/guides also prefer to drive the Cruisers. They are easier to maneuver and more comfortable for them behind the wheel.
Personally, I found the new Cruisers to be uncomfortable. The seats are tight and the view through the front window from the back is obscured by the sloping roof above the front seats. I also didn't much care for the space when the top was opened. Only 2 people can comfortably fit to stand up at the same time. I like to stand up the entire time and in the new Cruiser, it takes two seats with one foot on each to be comfortable. If you stand on the last two seats (don't stand on the frig), the side of your head hits the roof on bumps as it doesn't go all the back above you there and you have to lean backwards and be outside and behind, not under the sunroof. I'd take a Rover any day!!
Thomson takes extremely good care of theirs and keep them in tip top shape all the time. They operate their own garage.
It's my understanding that the Cruiser is a much cheaper vehicle to purchase by a third of the price and also much easier to maintain. It doesn't brake down as much either and can take more abuse. However, the Cruiser doesn't stand a chance on wet black cotton soil, as you found out Judith, like the Rovers do. A Rover can pull out 3 stuck Cruisers at the same time!!!
The driver/guides also prefer to drive the Cruisers. They are easier to maneuver and more comfortable for them behind the wheel.
Personally, I found the new Cruisers to be uncomfortable. The seats are tight and the view through the front window from the back is obscured by the sloping roof above the front seats. I also didn't much care for the space when the top was opened. Only 2 people can comfortably fit to stand up at the same time. I like to stand up the entire time and in the new Cruiser, it takes two seats with one foot on each to be comfortable. If you stand on the last two seats (don't stand on the frig), the side of your head hits the roof on bumps as it doesn't go all the back above you there and you have to lean backwards and be outside and behind, not under the sunroof. I'd take a Rover any day!!
Mar 28th, 2008, 02:37 PM
#28
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SDtravelers:
If you plan to just take carry-on then you just won't have room for the kinds of gifts we took. Our gifts weighed 12 pounds and were distributed between our two duffles.
They consisted of:
4 t-shirts (regular weight. Rolled up they didn't take much room)
6 ball caps (they nested together)
A bag of miniature toys
A couple of more small items
We replaced almost that whole 12 pounds of gifts with items we purchased for ourselves and as gifts for loved ones back home.
I think the key for you with your carry-on is to find some very small gifts that pack a big punch
Btw, later I plan to post one of those "What especially worked, what I wished I'd left at home, and what I wished I'd brought" packing lists that that I've found so valuable on this forum. It won't be my whole list because that ground has been covered so ably already by others.
-doo
If you plan to just take carry-on then you just won't have room for the kinds of gifts we took. Our gifts weighed 12 pounds and were distributed between our two duffles.
They consisted of:
4 t-shirts (regular weight. Rolled up they didn't take much room)
6 ball caps (they nested together)
A bag of miniature toys
A couple of more small items
We replaced almost that whole 12 pounds of gifts with items we purchased for ourselves and as gifts for loved ones back home.
I think the key for you with your carry-on is to find some very small gifts that pack a big punch
Btw, later I plan to post one of those "What especially worked, what I wished I'd left at home, and what I wished I'd brought" packing lists that that I've found so valuable on this forum. It won't be my whole list because that ground has been covered so ably already by others.
-doo
Mar 28th, 2008, 04:13 PM
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I am really enjoying your trip report. Thanks for all of the entertaining details. I am living vicariously, pretending I’m right there with you, except of course for the obnoxious camp companions. Was the guy on the cell phone the wife of the red whiner?
When I heard you missed the afternoon Crater trip, I was hoping you had more than one trip into the Crater planned, and you did. I’m glad illness didn’t prevent you from seeing it. The mother impala protecting her baby from the jackal is an exciting way to start the morning, and the lion activities during the afternoon made for an excellent day. Shame on the CCA guides. Too bad one of them wasn’t stuck with the red whiner.
Just when I thought you’d gotten rid of obnoxious camp companions, along comes the loudmouth in the family of eight. You say you failed miserably at not getting angry. Personally I’d consider it a success that you let them know how you felt. Your description of the tents, especially those in the Serengeti and a comparison of camps, is great. It will let others know what to expect.
I can’t imagine a better way to spend your anniversary. The camps sound absolutely lovely, you saw the wildebeest migration including a lion chasing a wildie, had a wonderful dinner, they sang for you, and for dessert you had an anniversary cake. What a special day.
I bet everyone loved your gifts. That is something I’ve never done, and you’ve now inspired me to do so in the future. I love the idea of the miniature toys, particularly animals indigenous to your part of the country.
Great Report. I can’t wait for the next installment.
When I heard you missed the afternoon Crater trip, I was hoping you had more than one trip into the Crater planned, and you did. I’m glad illness didn’t prevent you from seeing it. The mother impala protecting her baby from the jackal is an exciting way to start the morning, and the lion activities during the afternoon made for an excellent day. Shame on the CCA guides. Too bad one of them wasn’t stuck with the red whiner.
Just when I thought you’d gotten rid of obnoxious camp companions, along comes the loudmouth in the family of eight. You say you failed miserably at not getting angry. Personally I’d consider it a success that you let them know how you felt. Your description of the tents, especially those in the Serengeti and a comparison of camps, is great. It will let others know what to expect.
I can’t imagine a better way to spend your anniversary. The camps sound absolutely lovely, you saw the wildebeest migration including a lion chasing a wildie, had a wonderful dinner, they sang for you, and for dessert you had an anniversary cake. What a special day.
I bet everyone loved your gifts. That is something I’ve never done, and you’ve now inspired me to do so in the future. I love the idea of the miniature toys, particularly animals indigenous to your part of the country.
Great Report. I can’t wait for the next installment.
Mar 28th, 2008, 06:02 PM
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I've purchased the Afterbite Xtra and also some StingEze just in case. The electric flyswatters just arrived today ... boy that was quick ..., but one is broken, just the part that goes over the batteries. They are much smaller and lighter than I expected. I'm sure they'll be perfect. I like your description of the spider being bird dinner that night!!! you're a hoot,
keep it coming,
keep it coming,
Mar 29th, 2008, 07:49 AM
#31
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Safarimama:
Your discourse on Land Rovers v. Land Cruisers was enlightening. I remember our guide Adam saying that Thomson keeps their Rovers in shape by putting them into their shop for overhauls after every safari. He also said parts were expensive. I guess it really does come down to cost v. terrain handling ability as the bottom line for the outfitters. Apparently cost usually wins out.
Did I read your post correctly about having to stand on seats to look out the pop top? Whassupwitdat?! We stood on the floor and always had a great view. But you also mentioned a fridge in the Cruiser. Our Rover didn’t have one (there was never a time I thought we could have used one) though I could see where this would be a nice little extra. But it’s an extra I’d happily give up in favor of being able to go more places, see more things and have little risk of getting stuck.
I never looked inside the stretch Land Rovers that the group of 8 was using so I don’t know the set up inside there. Adam did tell us that Thomson is phasing out the regular Land Rovers like the one we were in favor of the stretch version. He said it’s heavier of course than the shorter version but still exceptionally nimble. Thomson will make the shorter ones available on request.
It was in the news this week that Ford Motors has just sold Jaguar and Land Rover to Tata, an Indian automaker. Hopefully the Rover survives and only gets better.
I’m glad to hear you’ve gotten hold of a couple of those electric fly swatters and the Afterbite Xtra. I hope the Xtra and/or StingEze do the trick for you. When’s your next trip over?
Judith (Doohickey)
Your discourse on Land Rovers v. Land Cruisers was enlightening. I remember our guide Adam saying that Thomson keeps their Rovers in shape by putting them into their shop for overhauls after every safari. He also said parts were expensive. I guess it really does come down to cost v. terrain handling ability as the bottom line for the outfitters. Apparently cost usually wins out.
Did I read your post correctly about having to stand on seats to look out the pop top? Whassupwitdat?! We stood on the floor and always had a great view. But you also mentioned a fridge in the Cruiser. Our Rover didn’t have one (there was never a time I thought we could have used one) though I could see where this would be a nice little extra. But it’s an extra I’d happily give up in favor of being able to go more places, see more things and have little risk of getting stuck.
I never looked inside the stretch Land Rovers that the group of 8 was using so I don’t know the set up inside there. Adam did tell us that Thomson is phasing out the regular Land Rovers like the one we were in favor of the stretch version. He said it’s heavier of course than the shorter version but still exceptionally nimble. Thomson will make the shorter ones available on request.
It was in the news this week that Ford Motors has just sold Jaguar and Land Rover to Tata, an Indian automaker. Hopefully the Rover survives and only gets better.
I’m glad to hear you’ve gotten hold of a couple of those electric fly swatters and the Afterbite Xtra. I hope the Xtra and/or StingEze do the trick for you. When’s your next trip over?
Judith (Doohickey)
Mar 29th, 2008, 10:00 AM
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Dana_M:
I’m glad you’re enjoying this report. Yes, our anniversary was very, very special for all the reasons you mentioned. It was a real wowza
The guy on the cell phone was talking to his wife. Presumably she was in the US because it wasn’t the Red Whiner (Atravelynn – thanks for coming up with that perfect moniker!) This little group was all supposed to go on to the Elmakati Camp, like us, after the crater. But, interestingly, the Red Whiner and the young couple (who seemed pleasant btw) cut their trip short and flew home. Only the cell phone guy went on to the Serengeti. He was there just for one night. He headed back to the US immediately after ballooning the following morning.
-doo
I’m glad you’re enjoying this report. Yes, our anniversary was very, very special for all the reasons you mentioned. It was a real wowza
The guy on the cell phone was talking to his wife. Presumably she was in the US because it wasn’t the Red Whiner (Atravelynn – thanks for coming up with that perfect moniker!) This little group was all supposed to go on to the Elmakati Camp, like us, after the crater. But, interestingly, the Red Whiner and the young couple (who seemed pleasant btw) cut their trip short and flew home. Only the cell phone guy went on to the Serengeti. He was there just for one night. He headed back to the US immediately after ballooning the following morning.
-doo
Mar 29th, 2008, 01:34 PM
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I love being on safari, so I don't want to miss anything. My eyes aren't what they used to be any longer, so I like to see out without obstructions. Looking out the windows doesn't do it for me. Of course, I have to sit there sometimes when others want to stand up. That's usually when all the action is on the other side!! Standing on the floor, only my head sticks up through the hatch and you can't see around the other people in front, so I like to get all the way up to my armpits through the hatch for greater views; therefore I stand on the seat. I found in the Cruiser that the seat was too narrow to just stand on your own seat and still be able to take pictures. The hatch wasn't wide enough, so you had to hang onto the rim or fall over back into the car.
Yes, the new Cruisers all come with battery operated fridges, which is a great luxury for keeping water cold. But you can't stand on it or move it.
We were in the short Rover with Willie and that was a great vehicle, although old. Willie said it was their oldest, but I thought it was just fine. There were just the two of us and I wouldn't have wanted any more. The seats were tight for my husband with his very long legs. He sat in the middle in the back with his legs between the two seat behind Willie.
I'm popping back over in May, then again in July and also in September. None of these trips to TZ where you're most likely to encounter tse-tses. Maybe I'll get attacked again in Zambia. I'm prepared now!!!
Yes, the new Cruisers all come with battery operated fridges, which is a great luxury for keeping water cold. But you can't stand on it or move it.
We were in the short Rover with Willie and that was a great vehicle, although old. Willie said it was their oldest, but I thought it was just fine. There were just the two of us and I wouldn't have wanted any more. The seats were tight for my husband with his very long legs. He sat in the middle in the back with his legs between the two seat behind Willie.
I'm popping back over in May, then again in July and also in September. None of these trips to TZ where you're most likely to encounter tse-tses. Maybe I'll get attacked again in Zambia. I'm prepared now!!!
Mar 29th, 2008, 07:02 PM
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Sunday, March 16
This was our last full day on safari. And this is the day I finally had serious relief from my longstanding, ahem, backup. Whoo-hoo! Everything got back on track. I was mightily embarrassed though to be interruped during one of my important bush loo stops when another safari vehicle suddenly appeared. There I was in all my glory in the road facing this oncoming vehicle! OMG! Ladies – can you imagine? No – don’t. Luckily I was able to stop and pull up my drawers and dash to John who was standing beside the Landy beckoning me to hide behind him. Wow, did I appreciate that. I would have been mortified had someone been able to recognize me at our lunch stop later in the day!
Well, we eventually made it back to the central Serengeti still in search of our first sighting of leopards and cheetahs. Well, it was important to _me_ but not as so to DH. Our first stop was the Orangi River just inside the Ikoma gate. There we saw crocodiles for the first time on this trip. We were able to get out on foot and watch them move about and sun themselves.
Just before we left the river overlook we encountered another American woman on holiday with a European friend of her’s who was currently living and working near Ikoma village. Her friend, upon learning we’d be going to Zanzibar, warned us that he and his brother had been robbed at gunpoint in their hotel lobby. He recounted that the Monday before he’d been at the Cristal Resort on Paje Beach on the eastern side of the island. He and his brother had been passing time in the lobby by playing cards, their luggage nearby. Suddenly some robbers with AK-47’s came in, shot the hotel dog, and demanded their money and belongings. They bandits looked through wallets before they left, didn’t think enough money was in one of them and demanded to know where the rest of the cash was hidden. This fellow I was speaking to was left with only his old film SLR camera and case which fortunately he had stashed a little money in. His money, passport, luggage, digital camera and cell phone were stolen.
Well, needless to say, this alarmed John and me quite a bit. We didn’t know anything about the security at the Cristal nor at our intended place, the Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel. Adam doubted the veracity of the report as he later spoke to the fellow’s driver/guide who said the guy hadn’t mentioned this to him at all. But it prompted John and me to immediately distribute our cash, credit cards, and passports amongst our belongings.
As we continued into central Serengeti we heard a bunch of chatter on the radio (which was rarely on btw) and Adam began to drive faster. Adam told us there was a leopard in a tree just ahead. In my excitement I stood up to enjoy the fast drive, forgetting to make sure the chin strap to my hat was in place. Rats! It wasn’t. “Stop, Adam! My hat blew off!” So there we were backing up instead of going forward in order to retrieve my grimey Tilley.
It was easy to see where the leopard was because there were 15-20 vehicles pulled over next to a stand of trees along the Seronera River. We’d never seen so many vehicles at a sighting, even at the mating lions in the crater. Most of the vehicles were situated so that the occupants could only see the back of the leopard which was 50’ up in a tree. We positioned ourselves so that we could see the front. All I had was my little Nikon Coolpix because I was counting on John to get the distance shots. But this leopard was just too far away for his 800 lens. It was a tough shot. The critter had chosen the tree wisely in respect to proximity to the road; nobody could get a decent picture of it unless they had a lens longer than an 800. But at least we got a good view of it through our spotting scope. We’d pulled it out many a time on the trip and were glad to have taken it.
After our fill of this we worked our way to the Seronera Tourism Center for a conventional loo stop (thank goodness!) and consumption of box lunches. Adam lunched with the other driver/guides while John and I chilled in some shade being entertained by the many rock hyraxes. I don't _think_ anyone there recognized me from my bush loo earlier in the day
We moseyed around the site for a while then headed off again. Adam was determined to find me a cheetah but John and I talked about it and told him that though it would be nice if we saw one, our trip would not be ruined if we didn’t. I guess it was seeing the leopard that made this okay for me. That was one cool cat.
We worked our way back to our camp by driving along the river and some water holes. As we often did, we came upon a tower of giraffes on the move. Adam could see they were moving toward some water and we wondered if they’d stop to drink. Now this was something I had always been fascinated with but had never had a chance to see. I know that drinking water is a very vulnerable time for them so it had inherent drama for me. Sure enough, the group got to an access place.
A couple of giraffes slowly approached the water’s edge and peered closely at/into the water. They moved away but lingered about, all looking around in different directions. Then a giraffe near the rear of the line approached the water, walking back and forth along the edge for a bit while also peering at the water. Soon she stopped, incrementally spread her front legs waaaay apart and took a really long drink. She stood up and raised her head, shaking it and flinging a big glob of water aside. Then she repeated this process, taking another long cool drink. She stepped away and a younger (much smaller) giraffe came alongside her. We figure this was her young because she (forgive my anthropomorphism here!) sweetly nudged him/her on the backside towards the water as if saying, “Go ahead honey, it’s safe to drink.” The young giraffe appeared hesitant so mama nudged again. Then the younger giraffe also took two long drinks. All the while the other giraffes were standing around as if on guard and at attention looking all around them. This was riveting! I LOVED it and felt privileged to watch this whole intimate scene play out. It was a wonderful gift. Now it was really, really okay that I didn’t see a cheetah.
Next up – Mzee & Mama go to the movies, a howl in the dark, and a Spice Island meltdown.
This was our last full day on safari. And this is the day I finally had serious relief from my longstanding, ahem, backup. Whoo-hoo! Everything got back on track. I was mightily embarrassed though to be interruped during one of my important bush loo stops when another safari vehicle suddenly appeared. There I was in all my glory in the road facing this oncoming vehicle! OMG! Ladies – can you imagine? No – don’t. Luckily I was able to stop and pull up my drawers and dash to John who was standing beside the Landy beckoning me to hide behind him. Wow, did I appreciate that. I would have been mortified had someone been able to recognize me at our lunch stop later in the day!
Well, we eventually made it back to the central Serengeti still in search of our first sighting of leopards and cheetahs. Well, it was important to _me_ but not as so to DH. Our first stop was the Orangi River just inside the Ikoma gate. There we saw crocodiles for the first time on this trip. We were able to get out on foot and watch them move about and sun themselves.
Just before we left the river overlook we encountered another American woman on holiday with a European friend of her’s who was currently living and working near Ikoma village. Her friend, upon learning we’d be going to Zanzibar, warned us that he and his brother had been robbed at gunpoint in their hotel lobby. He recounted that the Monday before he’d been at the Cristal Resort on Paje Beach on the eastern side of the island. He and his brother had been passing time in the lobby by playing cards, their luggage nearby. Suddenly some robbers with AK-47’s came in, shot the hotel dog, and demanded their money and belongings. They bandits looked through wallets before they left, didn’t think enough money was in one of them and demanded to know where the rest of the cash was hidden. This fellow I was speaking to was left with only his old film SLR camera and case which fortunately he had stashed a little money in. His money, passport, luggage, digital camera and cell phone were stolen.
Well, needless to say, this alarmed John and me quite a bit. We didn’t know anything about the security at the Cristal nor at our intended place, the Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel. Adam doubted the veracity of the report as he later spoke to the fellow’s driver/guide who said the guy hadn’t mentioned this to him at all. But it prompted John and me to immediately distribute our cash, credit cards, and passports amongst our belongings.
As we continued into central Serengeti we heard a bunch of chatter on the radio (which was rarely on btw) and Adam began to drive faster. Adam told us there was a leopard in a tree just ahead. In my excitement I stood up to enjoy the fast drive, forgetting to make sure the chin strap to my hat was in place. Rats! It wasn’t. “Stop, Adam! My hat blew off!” So there we were backing up instead of going forward in order to retrieve my grimey Tilley.
It was easy to see where the leopard was because there were 15-20 vehicles pulled over next to a stand of trees along the Seronera River. We’d never seen so many vehicles at a sighting, even at the mating lions in the crater. Most of the vehicles were situated so that the occupants could only see the back of the leopard which was 50’ up in a tree. We positioned ourselves so that we could see the front. All I had was my little Nikon Coolpix because I was counting on John to get the distance shots. But this leopard was just too far away for his 800 lens. It was a tough shot. The critter had chosen the tree wisely in respect to proximity to the road; nobody could get a decent picture of it unless they had a lens longer than an 800. But at least we got a good view of it through our spotting scope. We’d pulled it out many a time on the trip and were glad to have taken it.
After our fill of this we worked our way to the Seronera Tourism Center for a conventional loo stop (thank goodness!) and consumption of box lunches. Adam lunched with the other driver/guides while John and I chilled in some shade being entertained by the many rock hyraxes. I don't _think_ anyone there recognized me from my bush loo earlier in the day
We moseyed around the site for a while then headed off again. Adam was determined to find me a cheetah but John and I talked about it and told him that though it would be nice if we saw one, our trip would not be ruined if we didn’t. I guess it was seeing the leopard that made this okay for me. That was one cool cat.
We worked our way back to our camp by driving along the river and some water holes. As we often did, we came upon a tower of giraffes on the move. Adam could see they were moving toward some water and we wondered if they’d stop to drink. Now this was something I had always been fascinated with but had never had a chance to see. I know that drinking water is a very vulnerable time for them so it had inherent drama for me. Sure enough, the group got to an access place.
A couple of giraffes slowly approached the water’s edge and peered closely at/into the water. They moved away but lingered about, all looking around in different directions. Then a giraffe near the rear of the line approached the water, walking back and forth along the edge for a bit while also peering at the water. Soon she stopped, incrementally spread her front legs waaaay apart and took a really long drink. She stood up and raised her head, shaking it and flinging a big glob of water aside. Then she repeated this process, taking another long cool drink. She stepped away and a younger (much smaller) giraffe came alongside her. We figure this was her young because she (forgive my anthropomorphism here!) sweetly nudged him/her on the backside towards the water as if saying, “Go ahead honey, it’s safe to drink.” The young giraffe appeared hesitant so mama nudged again. Then the younger giraffe also took two long drinks. All the while the other giraffes were standing around as if on guard and at attention looking all around them. This was riveting! I LOVED it and felt privileged to watch this whole intimate scene play out. It was a wonderful gift. Now it was really, really okay that I didn’t see a cheetah.
Next up – Mzee & Mama go to the movies, a howl in the dark, and a Spice Island meltdown.
Mar 31st, 2008, 06:50 AM
#35
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Monday, March 17
While we were at Thomson’s Robanda camp a film crew joined us. The crew was putting together a video for Thomoson clients and corporate one for Thomson as well. We had been told several days beforehand that we’d be joined by the crew; Thomson hoped we didn’t mind. Well, I’m camera shy but John thought it fun to be filmed and interviewed. The lead guy filmed all kinds of stuff that we and the group of 8 did – everything from arrival at camp, to game drives, to washing hands before meals. Happily for me he spent more time with the group of 8 which, I am sure, they enjoyed immensely. The plans are to have a 15-20 minute video available for clients sometime next year.
This morning we packed up to leave the safari portion of our trip. The night before, as we were preparing for bed, we heard a weird intermittent howling kind of sound approaching camp. It was spooky. The animal, whatever it was, came through camp and then continued on past. Of course, we were zipped in good and tight but John insisted on going outside with his tiny little flashlight to see if he could see what it was. Of course, I threw a fit and nearly had a heart attack when he did it anyway. He wasn’t able to see it and came back into the tent within 1 minute. The next morning at breakfast we learned it had been hyena.
I was wistful about our safari being over but I was looking forward to going to Zanzibar for the first time. We left camp at 8a and, after a little side trip through Ikoma Village, drove to the grass airstrip to meet our flight. At dinner the night before, we had given Adam his tip and a couple of little gifts. But at the airstrip we said our real goodbyes to him. I made a solemn presentation of two D cell batteries which I said were spares that we really could not use and so was giving them to him. He was confused about why the heck we’d give him two lousy batteries; this confusion was exactly what I counted on Then I announced, “Because they go to _this_”, and held out the electric fly swatter for him to take. Boy, oh, boy! Did he light up with the biggest grin and laugh! He was happy, happy, happy and sooo surprised. John and I got the biggest kick out this. He gave us both a big hug and ran his hands over the swatter like it was a treasured thing – which for him it was. That man is just tortured by those tse tse flies so giving the swatter to him was a very satisfying thing.
Our Cessna Caravan 12 seater had been chartered by Thomson to bring supplies to Robanda Camp and pick us up, the group of 8 and the main film guy, Robin. This plane has very tight quarters. Seating is 3 across in a 1-2 configuration. The aisle is between seats 1 and 2 and is only about 18” across – if that! Anyone tall will have their knees in their chest unless they sit directly behind the pilot and co-pilot. There is no under seat or overhead storage.
On this flight the young woman with the big voice sat directly behind the pilot and directly in front of me. Her brother and his girlfriend/wife sat next to her. At some point while we were in flight, the woman and her brother both suddenly turned around and yelled, “Dad!,” to get the attention of their father, who was in the back of the plane, for a photo. Geesh! I’d been quietly looking at the scenery and had no warning. Happily this was the last time that I’d have occasion to jump out of my seat during our holiday. Much to the pilot’s credit, the plane didn’t jump, too.
Baggage was not weighed for our flight back to Arusha. Adam, who has lifted quite a bit of luggage in his day, knew by feel that our duffels were below 33 pounds. My daypack was a hunker though; there was no way it would fit on my lap so thank goodness we were all able to put our daypacks in the back of the plane behind the seats. The flight was uneventful. We flew over Ngorongoro Crater (what a great view!) and made a brief stop at the Lake Manyara airstrip to drop off Robin who was meeting up with a Thomson family safari group for film purposes. Then we popped back up again for the short hop to Arusha Airport. I had hoped that we’d be able to see Mt. Kilimanjaro but all but the top half was obscured by clouds.
Mohammed from Thomson and an assistant met us. He got us checked in for our connecting flight which wasn’t going to leave for another couple of hours. Our duffels were weighed. Then he dropped the group of 8 off at the Arusha Coffee Lodge for lunch after which John and I popped into the Arusha Cultural Center so DH could find a particular gift for a friend back home. He did a good bargaining job, too, getting an old, used Maasai boys necklace with warthog tusk down from $40 to $25. Then we popped back over to the airport and tried to eat our box lunches. But it was only 1130a and we weren’t hungry yet; we only got halfway through them. The lunches had been packaged in some really nice woven baskets with lid and clasp. We didn’t have a way to carry these to Zanzibar and back home so we had to give them away before leaving the airport. Too bad, I would like to have kept them.
We went through a rudimentary screening when our flight was called. Hand baggage trundled through an X-ray machine that was not manned. We went through a metal detector gateway and though it went off when I went through, the hand scan afterwards was very minimal in comparison to US standards. The flight to ZNZ was on Coastal Aviation and on another Cessna Caravan that was also fully booked. It took 1 ˝ hrs to get to Zanzibar and we had to climb to 13,500’ because of bumpy weather. The air was a little thin up there prompting uncontrollable yawning almost the whole way in an effort to get more oxygen into my bloodstream.
John and I were seated right behind the pilot on this flight so we had a great view approaching Zanzibar. I was so excited to be going there despite the reported heat and humidity. I’m not a person who handles heat very well but I thought that for three days I could handle it, especially since our room had A/C and the pool and Indian Ocean were right there. Well, we got off the plane and were assaulted by, what for us, was sweltering heat and humidity. The temp was in the mid-high 90’s with humidity in the 90’s as well. We started dripping right away. Let me put this in perspective for you - We live at 5, 000 feet in the dry air of the Montana Rockies and had only 1 ˝ weeks before been in snow. I am accustomed to walking about in t-shirts in 35 degree weather and don’t put on a sweatshirt until the temp gets down to 30 degrees or so. We had been fine with the 80-85 degree weather while on safari but THIS – this was in a whole other realm of existence! Goodness gracious!
Sayedi, our Meet & Greet person from Gallery Tours, met us just outside baggage claim. He was holding a sign with our name on it and marked “Party *2”. Crowding him at these glass doors were a bunch of men in neon green vests with “ZNZ” marked on the back. We walked into bedlam as soon as we pushed through the doors. All the green men crowded about us yelling in Swahili and trying to grab our duffels out of John’s hands. It was insane! We didn’t know if these guys were porters or trying to steal our luggage so John hung onto our duffels for dear life only releasing one to our greeter after we pushed our way outside the crowd. It turned out the green men were allowed to be porters by the airport but we didn’t know that. Sayedi acknowledged that this behavior was highly alarming and very off-putting for westerners to come into and that the airport ought to do something about it.
Sayedi was ebullient and personable. He gave us a running narrative on many aspects of Zanzibar as we drove in his air conditioned van up to the north end of the island. The road was in really good condition and we learned that the tarmac, extending all the way to Nungwi village, was only 4 months old. It was a good hour’s drive to the end of the island so we were glad to have arrived after the road was paved. Only the final ˝ mile to our hotel was unpaved and bumpy.
Remembering the hotel lobby robbery story we were pleased to arrive at a gate that was only opened for our arrival by a posted Ras Nugwi Hotel guard. Later we were to notice that two guards were always discreetly posted on the beach as well. Perhaps the Cristal Hotel where the robbery had happened the week before did not have the kind of security that the Ras Nungwi had.
Next up – Check-in surprises, beating the heat, and life in an island paradise.
While we were at Thomson’s Robanda camp a film crew joined us. The crew was putting together a video for Thomoson clients and corporate one for Thomson as well. We had been told several days beforehand that we’d be joined by the crew; Thomson hoped we didn’t mind. Well, I’m camera shy but John thought it fun to be filmed and interviewed. The lead guy filmed all kinds of stuff that we and the group of 8 did – everything from arrival at camp, to game drives, to washing hands before meals. Happily for me he spent more time with the group of 8 which, I am sure, they enjoyed immensely. The plans are to have a 15-20 minute video available for clients sometime next year.
This morning we packed up to leave the safari portion of our trip. The night before, as we were preparing for bed, we heard a weird intermittent howling kind of sound approaching camp. It was spooky. The animal, whatever it was, came through camp and then continued on past. Of course, we were zipped in good and tight but John insisted on going outside with his tiny little flashlight to see if he could see what it was. Of course, I threw a fit and nearly had a heart attack when he did it anyway. He wasn’t able to see it and came back into the tent within 1 minute. The next morning at breakfast we learned it had been hyena.
I was wistful about our safari being over but I was looking forward to going to Zanzibar for the first time. We left camp at 8a and, after a little side trip through Ikoma Village, drove to the grass airstrip to meet our flight. At dinner the night before, we had given Adam his tip and a couple of little gifts. But at the airstrip we said our real goodbyes to him. I made a solemn presentation of two D cell batteries which I said were spares that we really could not use and so was giving them to him. He was confused about why the heck we’d give him two lousy batteries; this confusion was exactly what I counted on
Then I announced, “Because they go to _this_”, and held out the electric fly swatter for him to take. Boy, oh, boy! Did he light up with the biggest grin and laugh! He was happy, happy, happy and sooo surprised. John and I got the biggest kick out this. He gave us both a big hug and ran his hands over the swatter like it was a treasured thing – which for him it was. That man is just tortured by those tse tse flies so giving the swatter to him was a very satisfying thing.Our Cessna Caravan 12 seater had been chartered by Thomson to bring supplies to Robanda Camp and pick us up, the group of 8 and the main film guy, Robin. This plane has very tight quarters. Seating is 3 across in a 1-2 configuration. The aisle is between seats 1 and 2 and is only about 18” across – if that! Anyone tall will have their knees in their chest unless they sit directly behind the pilot and co-pilot. There is no under seat or overhead storage.
On this flight the young woman with the big voice sat directly behind the pilot and directly in front of me. Her brother and his girlfriend/wife sat next to her. At some point while we were in flight, the woman and her brother both suddenly turned around and yelled, “Dad!,” to get the attention of their father, who was in the back of the plane, for a photo. Geesh! I’d been quietly looking at the scenery and had no warning. Happily this was the last time that I’d have occasion to jump out of my seat during our holiday. Much to the pilot’s credit, the plane didn’t jump, too.
Baggage was not weighed for our flight back to Arusha. Adam, who has lifted quite a bit of luggage in his day, knew by feel that our duffels were below 33 pounds. My daypack was a hunker though; there was no way it would fit on my lap so thank goodness we were all able to put our daypacks in the back of the plane behind the seats. The flight was uneventful. We flew over Ngorongoro Crater (what a great view!) and made a brief stop at the Lake Manyara airstrip to drop off Robin who was meeting up with a Thomson family safari group for film purposes. Then we popped back up again for the short hop to Arusha Airport. I had hoped that we’d be able to see Mt. Kilimanjaro but all but the top half was obscured by clouds.
Mohammed from Thomson and an assistant met us. He got us checked in for our connecting flight which wasn’t going to leave for another couple of hours. Our duffels were weighed. Then he dropped the group of 8 off at the Arusha Coffee Lodge for lunch after which John and I popped into the Arusha Cultural Center so DH could find a particular gift for a friend back home. He did a good bargaining job, too, getting an old, used Maasai boys necklace with warthog tusk down from $40 to $25. Then we popped back over to the airport and tried to eat our box lunches. But it was only 1130a and we weren’t hungry yet; we only got halfway through them. The lunches had been packaged in some really nice woven baskets with lid and clasp. We didn’t have a way to carry these to Zanzibar and back home so we had to give them away before leaving the airport. Too bad, I would like to have kept them.
We went through a rudimentary screening when our flight was called. Hand baggage trundled through an X-ray machine that was not manned. We went through a metal detector gateway and though it went off when I went through, the hand scan afterwards was very minimal in comparison to US standards. The flight to ZNZ was on Coastal Aviation and on another Cessna Caravan that was also fully booked. It took 1 ˝ hrs to get to Zanzibar and we had to climb to 13,500’ because of bumpy weather. The air was a little thin up there prompting uncontrollable yawning almost the whole way in an effort to get more oxygen into my bloodstream.
John and I were seated right behind the pilot on this flight so we had a great view approaching Zanzibar. I was so excited to be going there despite the reported heat and humidity. I’m not a person who handles heat very well but I thought that for three days I could handle it, especially since our room had A/C and the pool and Indian Ocean were right there. Well, we got off the plane and were assaulted by, what for us, was sweltering heat and humidity. The temp was in the mid-high 90’s with humidity in the 90’s as well. We started dripping right away. Let me put this in perspective for you - We live at 5, 000 feet in the dry air of the Montana Rockies and had only 1 ˝ weeks before been in snow. I am accustomed to walking about in t-shirts in 35 degree weather and don’t put on a sweatshirt until the temp gets down to 30 degrees or so. We had been fine with the 80-85 degree weather while on safari but THIS – this was in a whole other realm of existence! Goodness gracious!
Sayedi, our Meet & Greet person from Gallery Tours, met us just outside baggage claim. He was holding a sign with our name on it and marked “Party *2”. Crowding him at these glass doors were a bunch of men in neon green vests with “ZNZ” marked on the back. We walked into bedlam as soon as we pushed through the doors. All the green men crowded about us yelling in Swahili and trying to grab our duffels out of John’s hands. It was insane! We didn’t know if these guys were porters or trying to steal our luggage so John hung onto our duffels for dear life only releasing one to our greeter after we pushed our way outside the crowd. It turned out the green men were allowed to be porters by the airport but we didn’t know that. Sayedi acknowledged that this behavior was highly alarming and very off-putting for westerners to come into and that the airport ought to do something about it.
Sayedi was ebullient and personable. He gave us a running narrative on many aspects of Zanzibar as we drove in his air conditioned van up to the north end of the island. The road was in really good condition and we learned that the tarmac, extending all the way to Nungwi village, was only 4 months old. It was a good hour’s drive to the end of the island so we were glad to have arrived after the road was paved. Only the final ˝ mile to our hotel was unpaved and bumpy.
Remembering the hotel lobby robbery story we were pleased to arrive at a gate that was only opened for our arrival by a posted Ras Nugwi Hotel guard. Later we were to notice that two guards were always discreetly posted on the beach as well. Perhaps the Cristal Hotel where the robbery had happened the week before did not have the kind of security that the Ras Nungwi had.
Next up – Check-in surprises, beating the heat, and life in an island paradise.
Mar 31st, 2008, 10:29 AM
#36
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If it makes you feel any better, you're not the only one with an embarrassing bush loo moment. I was behind the vehicle when 2 trucks pulled up in Namibia. We were on a 6 hour excursion and I absolutely <i>had</i> to go, so I didn't bother stopping at that point. It's probably on YouTube 
Mar 31st, 2008, 02:37 PM
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I am not in Zanzibar yet but have finished your safari.
Cipro has saved the day a time or two for me. Better living through chemistry! Glad it finally got you back on track and kept you from spiraling downward.
It's good you can laugh at your loo fiasco because you know the people you encountered are. When I was a kid we had a neighbor who claimed she never worried about finding a bathroom when traveling. She'd just squat on the side of the road with a bag over her head. Maybe Tilley could sell an accessory for that purpose.
Drinking giraffes is a rarity I'd love to see.
I have not heard of mandatory hand washing before. What a brilliant idea and a win-win setup by Thomson.
There was a reason you did not see the cheetah. It means you have a reason to return!
Cipro has saved the day a time or two for me. Better living through chemistry! Glad it finally got you back on track and kept you from spiraling downward.
It's good you can laugh at your loo fiasco because you know the people you encountered are. When I was a kid we had a neighbor who claimed she never worried about finding a bathroom when traveling. She'd just squat on the side of the road with a bag over her head. Maybe Tilley could sell an accessory for that purpose.
Drinking giraffes is a rarity I'd love to see.
I have not heard of mandatory hand washing before. What a brilliant idea and a win-win setup by Thomson.
There was a reason you did not see the cheetah. It means you have a reason to return!
Apr 2nd, 2008, 06:24 PM
#39
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Well, I'm in Zanzibar with you, in the h e a t and humidity. Looking forward to more!
Question: do you get nauseous on those wee planes? I remember feeling pretty bumpy jumpy in my stomach on the lfight from Zanzibar to Dar.
Question: do you get nauseous on those wee planes? I remember feeling pretty bumpy jumpy in my stomach on the lfight from Zanzibar to Dar.
Apr 2nd, 2008, 06:42 PM
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Well, ordering my two flyswatters from http://www.electricflyswatter.net which took me to www.sevendeals.com when I clicked on "click here to order" button has turned sour. Order yours somewhere else. They just throw the flyswatters in a box and they don't care about how they arrive ... broken. There's no customer service attached to this company and no way to call them; and you got what you got. The postage to send them back cost more than the item and there's no guarantee that they will replace it and send another one that doesn't break in transit. This is too bad!! Just my 2 cents worth!
