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In this restaurant dating from 1911, the old Testaccio remains, as proven by the interior style. A seasonal antipasto table starts things off, offering Roman specialties like stewed Roman artichokes and puntarelle (curled chicory stems in a garlicky vinaigrette with lots of lemon and anchovy). The waiters wear crooked bow ties and are just a little bit too hurried—until, that is, you order classics like pasta all'amatriciana and carbonara, which they relish tossing in a big bowl tableside. This is also the place to try rigatoni con pajata (with calves' intestines)—if you're into that sort of thing. Secondi plates are for meat-eaters only, and the house wine is a golden enamel-remover from the Castelli Romani.
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