In this restaurant dating from 1911, the old Testaccio remains, as proven by the interior style. A seasonal antipasto table starts things off, offering specialties like stewed Roman artichokes and puntarelle (curled chicory stems in a garlicky vinaigrette with lemon and anchovy). The waiters wear crooked bow ties and are just a little bit too hurried—until, that is, you order classics like pasta all'amatriciana and carbonara, which they relish tossing in
a big bowl, tableside. Secondi are for meat-eaters only, and the house wine is a golden enamel-remover from the Castelli Romani.
Via Marmorata 39, Rome, 00153, Italy