Jagged cliffs along sandy shores give a rugged wild atmosphere to the beaches at Vagator, which is split by a seaside headland that offers beautiful views on either side. On one side are the dark red walls of the old hill fort of Chapora, built in 1717, which was later taken twice from the Portuguese by the Marathas. (The Marathas ruled a principality that covers much of the modern-day state of Maharashtra, north of Goa.) The view from the ramparts is phenomenal, and farther up the shore are stretches of secluded sand. On the other side is beautiful Ozrant Beach, also called Mini-Vagator, near which you will find an impressive stone face of Shiva that was carved into a boulder by an unknown sculptor.
Little Vagator and Vagator come to life after dark. Beach shacks like Boom Shankar will have information on the ongoing beach parties. Nine Bar, above the beach, is for trance lovers. This part of Goa is not as developed as the beaches farther south, and although there are plenty of shack restaurants, they have a here-today-gone-tomorrow feel; indeed, many disappear from one season to the next, or take on a different name. The best way to figure out where to eat is to ask fellow travelers for the name of the current favorite.