Delhi's hotels are modernizing along a Western line that's obliterating many aesthetic distinctions. But modernization has its virtues. Western-style hotels have good facilities, such as health clubs and business services. A chronic room shortage has driven up rates here, and upmarket hotels must levy an additional 20% tax on your room rate and food-and-beverage bill. Cost-conscious travelers will be disappointed by the accommodations in Delhi. Hotels tend to be either five-star or flophouse, with the middle ground almost empty. Fortunately, there are a number of "guest houses" in the city's various residential colonies. These small hotels are often converted bungalows, uneven in quality and limited in services, but prices are about a fifth of those at the big hotels. Unless we note otherwise, Delhi hotels have central air-conditioning, bathrooms with tubs, currency exchange, and room service.

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