The road to this Moche site, excavated by Peruvian archaeologist Walter Alva in 1987, winds north from the town of Sipán past sugarcane plantations and through a hot green valley. Just to the west stands a stark, deeply cleft mound—all that remains of the temple known as Huaca Rajada.
Here, over the course of two years, three massive tombs were unearthed, dating from between AD 100 and 250 and constituting one of the most complete archaeological finds ever made in the Western Hemisphere.
The tombs’ occupants were all Moche royalty. The first, the so-called Señor (Lord) of Sipán, was between 35 and 45 at the time of his death and had presided over a vast swath of the Lambayeque valley. His status exempted him from having to journey solo to the other world: interred with him were seven members of his entourage, including a guard (whose feet were amputated to ensure he didn't abandon his post), three young women, two warriors, and a 10-year-old child. Also present were a dog and two llamas. The tombs' other two tenants, a Moche priest and an elderly ruler related matrilineally to the Señor, were similarly high in the pecking order. Meanwhile, arranged around the royal coffins was an extravagance of riches: headdresses, gold earspools, pectoral shields, nose rings, spondylus-shell ornaments—all expertly worked by Moche smiths and all of dazzling beauty and artistry.
Today, visitors to Huaca Rajada can approximate the astonishment felt by Walter Alva and his team by seeing an exact mock-up of the original graves. The artifacts in the tombs are replicas—the real ones are in the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán, in Lambayeque—but seeing the mausoleum as the Moche left it 1,800 years ago conveys some of the excitement of archaeology at its most dramatic. You can also check out some excavated objects in the on-site museum. English-speaking guides are available for around S/40.