Salvador and the Bahia Coast Restaurants

The laid-back lifestyle of Bahians is reflected in their food. While breakfast in Brazil is traditionally a minor meal, even the simplest of inns will often provide a buffet spread fit for a king—including tropical fruits, eggs, and endless cakes and pancakes crafted from Tapioca. Lunches are usually casual and not strictly defined by the clock, as the hottest part of the day is not the best for large meals. Dinner is the main meal, and starts late, usually around 9. Bahian cuisine is unique and delicious, and a definite reason to visit. The ever-present oleo de dendê (palm oil) is one ingredient that sets it apart from other Brazilian cuisines.

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  • 1. Restaurante da Sylvinha

    $$$$

    This colorful cottage with some of the most innovative food in Bahia, set right on Praia do Espelho, draws Trancoso's jet set, who get here via a bumpy 40-minute drive on dirt roads. Sylvinha serves a generous set menu that blends Brazilian and Asian flavors (think ginger-infused fish and tropical fruit chutneys) to diners who gather around a few big tables on the terrace of her house. Daybeds are set under the coconut palms for post-lunch snoozing. Reservations are essential at this lunch-only spot.

    Praia do Espelho s/n, Porto Seguro, Bahia, 45818–000, Brazil
    075-9985–4157

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner, Reservations essential
  • 2. Lá em Casa

    $$

    This Praia de Algodoes restaurant–beach bar is run by Helena and Fernando, a charming couple from Rio, whose tapas-style menu and specials evolve daily around fresh local ingredients and create one of the most pleasant dining experiences in Maraú. Tables are set on a first-floor terrace, so diners have views of the bright green coconut palms framing the ocean. Lá em casa translates as "at home," and there is a relaxed feeling of being guests in a friend's house as Helena bustles in and out of the kitchen while her partner Fernando shakes up mango margaritas. They also offer two comfortable bungalows for rent.

    Rua Praia de Algodões s/n, Bahia, 45520–000, Brazil
    073-9900–9919
  • 3. Tikal Praia Bar

    $$$

    Set on what is arguably Maraú’s most beautiful stretch of coastline, Praia do Algodões, beach-lounge and restaurant Tikal is one of the best places to be, whether whiling away the day over crispy prawns and grilled palm heart or partying until dawn with gorgeous Brazilians at one of their legendary parties. While it may be a bit of a trek from Barra Grande itself (the drive takes approximately 40 minutes), the experience is well worth it, from the sparkling service to swimming in Tikal’s own lagoon. The only downside is that it only opens for two months of the year.

    Praia de Algodóes s/n, Bahia, 45520–000, Brazil
    031-3324–7818

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mar.–Dec.
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