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It's sometimes said that cariocas would rather expend their energy on the beach and that nighttime is strictly for recharging their batteries and de-sanding their swimsuits, but witnessing the masses swarming into Lapa at 10 pm on a Friday night make this a tricky argument to endorse. New nightclubs and bars continue to sprout up with remarkable regularity, and there are cutting-edge underground rhythms and musical styles competing with samba, chorro, and Brazilian pop (MPB) for the locals' hearts.
A much-loved local pastime is drinking a well-chilled chopp (draft beer) and enjoying the lively atmosphere of a genuine Rio botequim (bar). Every neighborhood has its share of upmarket options (branches of Belmonte and Devassa are dotted around town), but no less enjoyable are the huge number of hole-in-the-wall spots offering ice-cold bottles of cerveja (beer) and the chance to chat with down-to-earth regulars.
Live music is nighttime Rio's raison d'être, with street corners regularly playing host to impromptu renditions. During Carnival the entire city can feel like one giant playground. The electronic-music scene is also very much alive, and the underground popularity of funk (the city's own X-rated genre, not to be confused with the James Brown version) is slowly seeping into the mainstream, down from the huge bailes or open-air parties held weekly in the city's favelas. In addition to samba and MPB, hip-hop, electronica, and rock can be heard in clubs around the city.
A great venue in an excellent location right by the Lapa arches, Circo Voador hosts club nights during the week, but it's the varied live shows that really stand out, with a big stage set under a huge open-sided circular tent and room for up to 1,500 people to dance the night away.
Check the website for a regular roster of international acts and local stars.
Fans of fine cocktails will find a seaside retreat at Spirit Copa, where they can enjoy Brazilian flavors in revisited classic drinks. The food menu includes snacks and tapas to enjoy while enjoying the view. Nonguests can also enjoy the bar inside Fairmont Copacabana hotel but it's better to make a reservation beforehand to secure a table. Some days of the week the bar offers free live music, mostly bossa nova.
Not merely the place in Rio to try caipirinhas (made here with a variety of tropical fruits), Academia da Cachaça is a veritable temple to cachaça. The small bar sells close to 100 brands of cachaça by the glass or bottle, as well as mixing the famous sugarcane rum into dangerously drinkable concoctions such as the cocada geladinha—frozen coconut, coconut water, brown sugar, and cachaça. The Northeastern bar snacks here include sun-dried beef, baked palm hearts, and delicious black bean soup. There's now an affiliate in Barra da Tijuca, but it's hard to beat the Leblon original.
Officially Armazem São Thiago, this neighborhood institution is universally referred to by its nickname, Bar do Gomez, in honor of the late owner whose family has run the business for close to 100 years. Pictures documenting the bar's history adorn the high wooden walls, and surveying the scene in the present, you get the pleasant impression that little has changed over the years. The draft beer flows like water, locals swap stories at the long wooden bar, and new friendships are forged at the outdoor drinking posts. Favorites among the bar snacks include the giant olives, a pastrami sandwich, and the shrimp plate. Early on a Friday night, this is a good place to strike up a conversation with locals before heading down the hill to Lapa.
Here the roda de samba—where musicians sit and play instruments around a central table (in fact the only table in this tiny bar)—is legendary, as is the help-yourself beer policy. The no-nonsense owner makes drink notations and keeps the crowd in check. The standards of the music here are as high as the bar is simple: big-name Brazilian musicians have been known to drop in for a jam session, and on weekend evenings the revelry often spills out onto the street.
A favorite among local sambistas (samba musicians) and a great spot to listen to live samba in a comfortable environment, Carioca da Gema is one of Lapa's liveliest spots, with talented musicians performing seven nights a week. By 11 pm, finding a place to stand can be difficult, but regulars still find a way to samba. Call ahead and book a table if you're keener to be a spectator. There's a good pizzeria downstairs.
On paying your entrance fee, you're given a white paper card where all food and drinks are noted and your bill's paid at the cashier at the end of the night. Don't lose it; it's your ticket out at the end of the night!
This happening hangout is set on one of Ipanema's prettiest squares. Spread over three floors, it combines a rum bar with a rooftop terrace and vibrant lounge area. The star of the show is mixologist Tai Barbin, who is known for his barrel-aged negronis. Gourmet snacks are available alongside an extensive drinks list and service is reliably attentive.
For one of the most authentic samba experiences in town, head to Monday night's live roda de samba in Pedra do Sal. Located in a residential pocket in the docklands neighborhood of Saúde, crowds of samba-loving locals gather round a central circle of musicians who jam late into the night. The story goes that this spot marks the birthplace of samba in Rio de Janeiro and there is a really tangible sense of living heritage here. Although the vibe is welcoming and friendly and crime is minimal, go without valuables and little in your pockets so you can relax into the experience. Ice-cold beers and caipirinhas can be bought from surrounding bars and vendors. During summer months, this also takes place on Fridays and is a great spot to kick off a night out, with crowds gathering from around 8 pm. The roda is cancelled in the event of rain.
Despite the hordes of samba-seeking tourists, Rio Scenarium somehow manages to retain its authenticity and magic. This is partly due to the incredible setting—a former movie props warehouse still crammed to the rafters with old instruments, bikes, furniture, and puppets—but also to the great bands and persevering locals who love to show off their moves and entice novices onto the dance floor. On weekends arrive before 9 pm to avoid the lines, or call ahead and book a table. If you prefer a daytime visit, they offer a feijoada every Saturday at lunchtime with live music.
The liveliest of Santa Teresa's many drinking dens and the hub of much social activity, this enduringly popular boteco anchors one end of the neighborhood's main drinking and dining strip. Some excellent snacks are served here—the pasteis de feijão (fried pastries filled with black beans) being a firm favorite with locals—as well as hearty plates of meat-based comida mineira (cuisine from Minas Gerais State). A street party atmosphere prevails on Sunday afternoon, when the bar is standing room only and revelers spill out onto the road outside.
Everything in this themed bar---from the dishes to the decor---is inspired by samba celebrities and memorable parades held at Sambadrome. Don't forget to try dumplings like martinho (rice with cod) and the vegetarian selminha (cheese, sun-dried tomato, eggplant and zucchini), always accompanied by a cold beer and good live samba.
This little corner of Lapa brings together the city's best samba musicians in groups that go on all night long. Wear comfortable clothes and be prepared to spend hours standing and enjoying the music. Check the website for the monthly schedule and buy your ticket in advance.
The iconic Blue Note has opened a branch in one of the most musical cities in the world, the birthplace of bossa nova. Every week, big names in Brazilian and international music perform in concerts. Check the updated schedule on the website before you go. The bar also participates in special events in the city, such as the LGBTQ+ parade and New Year's Eve, selling VIP seats.
A trip to Bracarense after a hard day on the beach is what Rio is all about. Crowds spill onto the streets while parked cars double as chairs and the sandy masses gather at sunset for ice-cold chopp (draft tap beer) and some of Leblon's best pork sandwiches, codfish balls, and empanadas.
With its multiroom layout, old-school arcade games, and small junk shop, this shabby-chic venue has the look and feel of a house party. The club's youngish crowd appreciates the adventurous musical policy: don't be surprised if the DJ follows a 1960s Beatles track with down-and-dirty favela funk. It's closed Sunday to Tuesday.
A former brothel in a bright-pink mansion on the Laranjeiras hillside is now a hipster hot spot for live music and dancing. A young, casual chic crowd heads here at the weekend for open-air dancing, karaoke (something of a trend in Rio), samba, and occasional feijoada-fests.
Occupying a vast outdoor space under the gaze of Christ the Redeemer, this collection of bars, restaurant, and shops throngs with people after dark, when the air is filled with the tipsy chatter of locals relaxing over dinner and drinks.
For the serious dance-music enthusiast, Fosfobox, in the heart of Copacabana, plays the best underground tunes, as well as rock and pop. Dancers cram onto the floor in the industrial-feeling basement, while an upstairs bar offers opportunity for conversation. It's closed on Monday and Tuesday.
This is the original Garota (there are branches all over the city), where Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes penned the timeless song "The Girl from Ipanema." The place serves decent food and drink, but it's the historical significance that draws the crowds. Occasional live music events take place in the upstairs lounge.
Authentically Carioca and a fine place to experience Rio spirit, the bar at down-to-earth Jobi stays open on weekends until the last customer leaves. Don't be fooled by the unassuming exterior—Jobi serves some of Rio's most delicious bar snacks and is one of the best-loved bars in the Zona Sul.
Specializing in some of Brazil's finest institutions—strong and fine-tasting cachaças (Brazilian rum), mouthwatering moquecas (stews), and, of course, live samba—Mangue Seco's location on the popular Rua do Lavradio makes it a perfect place to start a night out. Arrive at sundown, grab one of the sidewalk tables, and watch Lapa life unfold as you sip a caipirinha and browse the menu.
Rock 'n' roll fans looking for a bar with a good food and drink menu and good music can enjoy this address in Botafogo. From Monday to Saturday, the bar offers specials on beers and drinks, a DJ, and TV for sporting events.
Brazil is well-known by its music and rhythm, and many come to Rio de Janeiro looking for a place to listen to samba and bossa nova. Historical Movie Theater Roxy in Copacabana was restored and turned into a music hall, with music shows and dinner in one package. Tickets include a bossa nova opening act and a main show with a trip around Brazilian musical traditions for four hours. The event finishes by turning into a big party, gathering artists and audience.
