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Whether you're looking for a unique handicraft, the latest boutique-vineyard malbec, a one-off pair of rhodochrosite earrings, or jeans no one's got back home, you're bound to leave Buenos Aires with your suitcases full. Argentina’s designers inject their wares with creativity, and innovative items can be found everywhere from elite boutiques to neighborhood street fairs.
If you love the hustle and bustle, elbow your way through the city's outdoor ferias. The array of open-air markets testifies to the fact that locals enjoy stall-trawling as much as visitors do. Crafts—whether traditional or contemporary—often take center stage, with artisans proudly selling their own creations; however, the selection can also include art, antiques, curios, clothing, jewelry, and assorted household goods.
At the other end of the spectrum, this city certainly isn’t lacking in high-end couture. During Fashion Weeks (www.bafweek.com.ar) in February and August, Buenos Aires turns the spotlight on both its world-class designers and its talented up-and-comers. But at any time of year you can swank it up at Patio Bullrich or at posh Recoleta boutiques where the security is as tight as an airport.
Clothing bargains are harder to find than they once were, but that doesn’t mean visitors should pay through the nose. Although haggling isn’t commonplace, do ask for a discount if paying in cash, especially if you decide to snap up leather wrist cuffs for all your cousins at a sidewalk stall. Also look out for the tax refund sticker in many shop windows.
Argentina is cow central, and leather goods—from boots to jackets to polo saddles—are an excellent value. Buenos Aires' well-established antiques trade is also thriving, but modern houseware shops are putting up some fierce competition. On the wine front, many local vintages still aren't exported, so this may be your only chance to try wines from regions other than Mendoza.
It’s not just about retail therapy, either. Part of the Buenos Aires experience can be wandering around and stepping, unexpectedly, into a restored mansion selling silk frocks and vertigo-inducing heels, then taking a break at a bistro or juice bar. People-watching is the name of the game. Known for their good looks, Argentineans like to watch and be watched from the café sidelines.
The official light-blue-and-white shirts worn by the Argentine soccer team, the Pumas (the national rugby team), and the Leonas (the women's field hockey team) are bestsellers and make excellent souvenirs. You can also pick up Converse, Nike, Adidas, and Puma clothing and footwear as well as uber-trendy Gola sneakers at this sporting megastore.
Bored of drab utility-wear? Rethink has, well, rethought the issue. Grown-up skaters and sophisticated rockers love its well-made jeans, hoodies, and tees. Simple in cut, they come alive with graffiti-inspired designs, which spill over onto the shop walls.
The cuts of their tank tops and sweatpants aren't quite as spacey as Nike or Reebok, but then this classic Argentine brand's prices are more down-to-earth, too. Tennis wear is a strong player, not surprising given that Topper sponsors '70s legend Guillermo Vilas as well as younger superstars such as Facundo Arguello and David Nalbandian. There's also off-court action: the black Converse-lookalike sneakers have been a fashion staple for teenage gig-goers for decades.
Light, butter-soft leather takes very modern forms here, with geometric stitching the only adornment on jackets and asymmetrical bags that might come in rich violet in winter and aqua-blue in summer. The top-quality footwear includes teetering heels and ultrasimple boots and sandals. Ultratight jeans, leather boots, and tops are also on offer.
A peaceful sanctuary away from the busy Sunday street market, Walrus stocks more than 4,000 good quality books in English. American owner Geoff and his English-speaking staff are helpful yet unintrusive when it comes to selecting a translation of local masters or some contemporary fiction. Slide open the bargain drawer at the front of the store to uncover more reads perfect for flight delays or long bus journeys.
It may be easy to pass by this unprepossessing Recoleta shop, but there's no way Fabián Zitta's evening dresses could go unnoticed. Local starlets love his bold designs, notable for their volume: picture balloon skirts, puffball sleeves, or organic-looking ruffled tubes snaking over severely tight bodices. Each collection includes black, white, and one other (usually blinding) color. Brides-to-be must give his wedding collection a whirl.
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