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Preparing for a night out in Buenos Aires has an element of marathon training to it. Rest up with a siesta, fortify yourself with some protein, and drink plenty of fluids before, during, and after. That’s right, the key to porteño nightlife is longevity—after all, an early night means hailing a cab at 6 am.
The scene here rivals that of any capital city, so you’ll find something to suit every taste. Trendy cocktail bars, secret speakeasies, classic tango haunts, artsy watering holes, and packed dance floors await. To make the most of them, try following the locals’ lead.
Painting Buenos Aires red means looking sharp, going with the flow as you bar-hop, and not challenging your new B.A. buddies to raucous drinking games. Porteños adore going out with their friends, but it’s not uncommon to see a large group sharing a liter bottle of beer and swigging from the same glass. Latino lightweights? Not at all. This is just how Argentines roll—and once a night gets really rocking, they'll move onto their favorite tipple, Fernet y Cola.
Hours are relaxed, but there are general guidelines. The smartest bars kick off an evening with happy hours that begin around 8 pm and often stretch way beyond 60 minutes; downtown drinking establishments start even earlier to lure workers to part with hard-earned pesos, spawning the "after-office" across the city, which is now a nightlife fixture almost any day of the week. Theater performances begin around 9 pm and the last movie begins after midnight. By that point, lines to get into popular bars have started forming, but clubs aren’t buzzing until 4 am. If in doubt, turn up later than you consider reasonable when you’re meeting a local (30 minutes after the appointed time is the norm). The subte (subway) closes between 10 and 11 pm, depending on the line and day. Monday through Saturday it reopens at 5 am; on Sunday, however, trains don’t start running again until 8 am. So taking a cab to and from home is a good idea—it’s also quicker than waiting for a colectivo bus very late at night.
This was a pioneering gay disco when it opened in 1984, but—like its clientele—Contramano has grown up. Today it operates more as a small, laid-back bar with an older, male-only clientele. Occasionally there's live music and male strippers.
With frequent visits from "superstar DJs" and a dependable line-up of local party starters, this is the Buenos Aires base of the international Crobar club brand. There's lots of space plus the obligatory VIP lounges, and proximity to the transvestite zone means that leaving the club in the morning can get as interesting as the time spent inside.
Cozy and colorful, Dadá has a short but sweet list of classic cocktails and an ideal bar to perch at while sipping. With its owners doubling as bar staff, Dadá sees an eclectic mix of locals and visitors popping in for dinner, a drink, or both. Grab a booth at the back for extra privacy.
With a list of dozens of signature and classic cocktails and a solid food menu to match, this corner bar on the edge of San Telmo is a hidden gem. The fancy glassware and quotations in the menu show that the "double" concept has been thought through down to the finest details.
The standard of dancing is usually high at this club, which belongs to La Academia del Tango Milonguero, one of the city's best tango schools. Beginners should consult the online schedule for classes; there are usually several a day plus a milonga.
The polished shows at this classic café trace the history of the tango. The dancing and costumes are great, although the stagy interludes might make you wince.
This place was founded by legendary tango singer Edmundo Rivero, though he wouldn't recognize the slick outfit his bar has become. Inside the colonial building a tireless troupe of dancers and musicians perform showy tango and folk numbers while you dine.
Ancient coffee machines and 1930s posters give Finisterra a vintage look, but it’s the solid mix of ’80s hits that puts drinkers in a dancing mood. The crowd arrives early to nibble on a selection of cured meats and cheeses while taking advantage of the cerveza-o-metro (a liquid meter of beer). Only the very hardy should give the same length of local tipple Fernet and Coke a go.
While other bars of its ilk have gone legit, Frank's takes open pride in its reputation as a speakeasy. Simply knowing the address isn't enough—you also need a number and a password for the phone booth that leads into an understated yet sophisticated two-floor setting, complete with staff dressed the old school way in suspenders. This bar has picked up a heap of awards in recent years, so you'll be sipping some of the best cocktails in the city.
A traditional British boozer, Gibraltar delivers a taste of London in the heart of San Telmo: ale is poured at the classic wooden bar, and fish and chips top the menu. It also sports a back-room pool table, an outdoor patio, and a standoffish staff. Sink into a leather sofa to watch the big soccer game on the small screen, or take over a wooden booth for an evening.
If Carrie Bradshaw lived in Buenos Aires, she'd probably frequent this first-floor hot spot where local business sharks and chic internationals sip cocktails and eat sushi by candlelight. It's extremely popular during happy hour, but people stick around for dinner and the occasional live jazz shows, too. The wine list and appetizers are superb, as is the flirting.
Excellent local musicians put on daily performances of tango classics in the downstairs salon of this legendary café, but note that ticket prices can be steeper than average because of the venue's illustrious history. There's jazz sometimes on weekends, too.
Exquisite art deco theaters line Avenida Corrientes, but the rationalist-style Gran Rex—constructed by architect Alberto Prebisch, of the Obelisk fame—is a favorite venue for rock, pop, and jazz musicians. Recent acts that have tested its great acoustics include Coldplay and the legendary Peter Frampton. Tickets are available through Ticketek (wwww.ticketek.com.ar).
This nightclub, which doubles as a live music venue, may be oddly shaped for spot-on acoustics; however, it attracts plenty of underground and international artists. Weekly parties, metal bands, and European electronic combos form the changing lineup.
Tucked inside La Rural agriculture center, Groove's musical menu spans a multitude of genres. But to see how the kids party, head to La Mágica with resident DJ La Romy. The high-energy night embraces cumbia–a fusion of Latin American folk and electronic music—and is one of the city's most contemporary soundtracks.
A classy speakeasy, the Harrison is inspired by the Prohibition-era and the time-warped cocktails have earned a cluster of awards. Dine at the shop-front sushi restaurant, then ask “to see the bodega” to gain access.
This modern watering hole—an underrated corner bar on the eastern edge of San Telmo—serves up drinks under mood lighting. A predominantly local crowd is lured in for early-evening cocktails from 6 to 9, with happy hour prices.
Glamour is the name of the game at Isabel, one of Palermo’s posher watering holes. You can feel like a star sipping a cocktail under the twinkling ceiling lights, while actually star spotting if you're up to date with your Argentine models and polo players. Hip DJs spin tunes for a bling-y crowd, so booking is essential—as is a bottomless wallet.
When the most beautiful of people feel like dancing with a bottle of Champagne at 4 am, they come here. Things get even more glamorous a few hours later, when the dawn breaks through the river and the yacht club is revealed. International DJs drop by to entertain the super-swanky set.
Right in the heart of Palermo and next door to Congo Club Cultural, Kika is much bigger than you'd guess from the outside. Thanks to its funky musical orientation, its two dance floors fill up quickly. The back room sometimes hosts live bands but it's mostly about looking hot and dancing to electronica and reguetón with a student-heavy crowd until dawn.
Owned by a Polish expat, Krakow has one of the lengthiest bars in the neighborhood, plus a great selection of on-tap beers, European-style fare, and a big screen for those all-important soccer matches. It's one of the few bars in the city to offer Wii games.
This former grain factory has been converted into a hip club where the tango is somehow very rock. There are classes and milongas every evening, although Tuesdays are the most popular. It's a cool night out even if you're not planning to dance, as you can watch aficionados in action over a beer or a bottle of wine. Note that serious dancers tend not to come here because of the uneven floorboards.
Take advantage of happy hour until 10 pm at La Cigale's curvaceously seductive first-floor bar, which leads to the street-side balcony and smokers' corner. Another flight of stairs winds up to the stage, ready and waiting for local indie, jazz, VJs, and acoustic bands any night of the week.
In the heart of the low-key Boedo neighborhood, 30 blocks west of San Telmo, La Esquina was once a traditional café favored by the barrio's old men: in fact, the famous 1948 tango Sur begins by mentioning its location on the corner of San Juan and Boedo. After getting the Disney-tango treatment, it's now a kind of 1940s concept bar—though its checkered floor and original bar remain. Performances are showy but reasonably priced.
For tango alfresco, drop by the bandstand of this Belgrano park on Saturday and Sunday evenings year-round. Classes run from 4:30 to 6:30, then the milonga proper starts at 7. Expect lots of old-timers dancing low-key steps. The event is canceled only during heavy rain; call ahead if you're unsure.
A refreshing exception to the sometimes suffocatingly macho world of tango, this is the gay milonga. The main night is Friday, when a cool set of guys and girls, both gay and straight, look to break with the "he leads, she follows" doctrine.
There's nothing pretentious about this place: laid-back groups gather to enjoy traditional Argentine folk music and hand-held foods like empanadas and tamales. The exposed-brick walls are adorned with rustic memorabilia, including guitars that you're welcome to play if so inspired.
Pass through the scarlet entrance and clamber up the stairs to this trendy-yet-friendly bar. There's a wide selection of spirits and beers on tap, as well as a pool table and a sociable mix of local and expat regulars. If you need to nibble, the bar snacks here are above average.
A San Telmo institution, this cabaret-style club is one of Buenos Aires’ most popular venues, so grab a table and enjoy an intimate performance for 900. La Trastienda is the place to catch electrotango or new tango groups, although it takes pains to promote other genres as well. Check out national pop and rock legends, as well as local rock, reggae, and funk.
Milongas Wednesday through Sunday make this the place for a very long weekend. Classes at different levels precede them. The vibe on the floor is friendly and rather chaotic, and dancing standards are low, so it's a good place for beginners to get in some practice. DJs mix tango with rock, salsa, and cumbia.
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