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Visitors may flock to Buenos Aires for the steak and malbec, but the food scene goes far beyond those two attractions. Over the last dozen or so years, the city has burst onto the international food scene with gusto.
There’s a demand for more and more creative food. Here three things have come together to create a truly modern cuisine: diverse cultural influences, high culinary aspirations, and a relentless devotion to aesthetics, from plate garnishes to room décor. Tradition dictates late dining, and the majority of restaurants don’t open until 8 or 9 pm for dinner and don’t get busy until after 10. Dinner is a leisurely affair, and the sobremesa, or after-dinner chat over coffee or digestifs, is nearly obligatory. Rushing from the table is frowned on—anyway, where would you go? Bars and clubs often don’t open until after midnight.
The core of the population is of Italian and Spanish heritage, and pizza, pasta, paella, and puchero (beef boil) are as common as the parrilla (steakhouse). Argentines have taken the classics and made them their own with different techniques and ingredients, but they’re still recognizable to the international traveler. Pizzas and empanadas are the favored local snack food, the former piled high with cheese, the latter typically filled with steak or chicken. And while steak is indisputably king in this town, it’s got fierce competition in tender Patagonian lamb, game meats, fish, and shellfish. In contrast to that of much of Latin America, Argentine cuisine is not known for its spice, and picante dishes are not common.
Cafés, too, are an important part of the culture, and locals will stop in at their favorite for a cafecito at least once a day, not only to knock back a little caffeine, but also to see friends and catch up on the latest news and gossip.
The heart of Catalán beats at this popular tapas bar. Grab a seat at the counter—this one of the few food bars in the city—or snuggle in at one of the cozy, romantic tables. Tancat features Spanish cooking at its best: simple, well-flavored, and expertly cooked. The stars here, besides the array of tapas, are the paella and other stellar seafood dishes. Best yet, this is one of the most reasonably priced Spanish restaurants in the city, especially for the quality.
A favorite of the local Indian community, Tandoor is a destination for embassy officials who want a food fix from home. It's no surprise that it's also a winner with American expats, many of whom are looking for something a little spicier than the local fare. When the place first opened the chef went full tilt on the picante, but he eventually toned down the spices a bit to appeal to a local clientele. You can always add in more chilies, available on request. The room is chic and sleek, and the service is polished. At lunch there's an inexpensive prix-fixe menu option.
Casual style, fantastic service and atmosphere, and a prime location in Palermo Botánico make this a preferred Italian restaurant. Open for lunch and dinner, try the Argentine spin on surf and turf of gamberi e animelle (perfectly grilled prawns and sweetbreads), or guanciale (braised pork cheeks). The multilayered house lasagna is also fantastic. There's a great wine list too.
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