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Originally an immigrant neighborhood, San Telmo continues to be revamped with establishments popping up to cater to the latest wave of visitors to the city—backpackers, expats, and tango hunters. Now home to dozens of trendy bars, the bohemian district is coming into its own again. La Boca to the south, on the other hand, is still best avoided at night.
Opened in 1928, this traditional corner bar opposite Parque Lezama is an iconic spot. Day and night it's full of characters who engage in passionate discussions or simply watch the world unfold through the oversized windows. Imbued with nostalgia, Bar Británico has a cinematic appeal—which may explain why it has appeared in movies like The Motorcycle Diaries and Francis Ford Coppola's Tetro.
Once a bohemian haunt, this bar went international after serving as a major location for Wong Kar-Wai's cult indie film Happy Together. The move to the mainstream has led to glitzier dancing, as well as increasingly bad food and indifferent service. Still, the worn checkered floor and Old World bar make a charming backdrop.
Two brothers with a passion for craft beer lead this pub, which has become a refreshing alternative to the expat haunt Gibraltar. Ramiro Rodríguez, who also mans the bar, makes all the brews on-site; some have even picked up excellence awards in South America.
Rousing live orchestras keep even nondancers entertained at the nontraditional milongas that are this club's hallmark. La Orquesta Típica el Afronte provides the music for Maldita Milonga ( www.instagram.com/malditamilonga), while Tango Queer ( www.instagram.com/tangoqueerba) draws both gay and straight dancers looking to escape the confines of more conservative dance floors. There's also a different turn with Latin American music; on weekends doors open at midnight.
Classic trios and quartets share the stage with young musicians performing hip tango and folk sets here. There are also milongas on weekends.
With a list of dozens of signature and classic cocktails and a solid food menu to match, this corner bar on the edge of San Telmo is a hidden gem. The fancy glassware and quotations in the menu show that the "double" concept has been thought through down to the finest details.
The polished shows at this classic café trace the history of the tango. The dancing and costumes are great, although the stagy interludes might make you wince.
This place was founded by legendary tango singer Edmundo Rivero, though he wouldn't recognize the slick outfit his bar has become. Inside the colonial building a tireless troupe of dancers and musicians perform showy tango and folk numbers while you dine.
A traditional British boozer, Gibraltar delivers a taste of London in the heart of San Telmo: ale is poured at the classic wooden bar, and fish and chips top the menu. It also sports a back-room pool table, an outdoor patio, and a standoffish staff. Sink into a leather sofa to watch the big soccer game on the small screen, or take over a wooden booth for an evening.
This modern watering hole—an underrated corner bar on the eastern edge of San Telmo—serves up drinks under mood lighting. A predominantly local crowd is lured in for early-evening cocktails from 6 to 9, with happy hour prices.
Owned by a Polish expat, Krakow has one of the lengthiest bars in the neighborhood, plus a great selection of on-tap beers, European-style fare, and a big screen for those all-important soccer matches. It's one of the few bars in the city to offer Wii games.
In the heart of the low-key Boedo neighborhood, 30 blocks west of San Telmo, La Esquina was once a traditional café favored by the barrio's old men: in fact, the famous 1948 tango Sur begins by mentioning its location on the corner of San Juan and Boedo. After getting the Disney-tango treatment, it's now a kind of 1940s concept bar—though its checkered floor and original bar remain. Performances are showy but reasonably priced.
Pass through the scarlet entrance and clamber up the stairs to this trendy-yet-friendly bar. There's a wide selection of spirits and beers on tap, as well as a pool table and a sociable mix of local and expat regulars. If you need to nibble, the bar snacks here are above average.
A San Telmo institution, this cabaret-style club is one of Buenos Aires’ most popular venues, so grab a table and enjoy an intimate performance for 900. La Trastienda is the place to catch electrotango or new tango groups, although it takes pains to promote other genres as well. Check out national pop and rock legends, as well as local rock, reggae, and funk.
Get down with the hipsters who spill out onto the San Telmo sidewalk rain or shine when Las del BarCo gets too full. Pull up a love seat and grab a pint, or check out the ever-changing art exhibitions. Fun and frivolous, this hot spot has already attracted a dedicated following—and not just for its extended happy hour.
You'll recognize M by its one-letter name writ large in ivy near the entrance. Once inside, pull up a red velvet stool at the ground floor bar for an impeccable cocktail, or reserve your place at the cava downstairs for a wine-tasting session. Don't forget to peek at the tunnel which former president Juan Perón used to escape from Government House. M also houses Samsung Studio, San Telmo's latest tiny yet trendy live music venue, round the back.
A buzzing space that takes music seriously, Makena focuses on funk, soul, and R&B; it also hosts live jams several nights per week. Check out the Afromama night, guaranteed to get you moving then grooving.
The unashamedly theatrical show at this tango-concept hotel dances you through the history of tango. It's a fascinating look at how the dance evolved, and the hotel's art nouveau architecture is pretty fantastic, too.
A private members' club and bolt hole unexpectedly located in the middle of Palermo Soho, the lush Oasis Clubhouse now opens its doors to non-members (subject to guest list approval). Relax around the outdoor swimming pool with a well-prepared cocktail, or lounge in the living space–you'll feel like a VIP regardless.
It doesn't get much glitzier—or much tackier. Performed daily, the unashamedly tourist-oriented shows are so eager to cash in on stereotypes that they even include a number from Evita (shock, horror). Still, you can't fault the fishnetted dancers on their footwork. Rather less glam is its location south of San Telmo, in the Barracas neighborhood, which can be sketchy: take a taxi here and back.
