Fodor's Expert Review Up River Café

Perched dramatically on the edge of the Pawcatuck River and with tall windows and a large deck overlooking the water, this handsome restaurant serves some of the most reliably sophisticated and creative cuisine in South County; it also has an outstanding wine list. The menu favors seafood and steaks, including a terrific striped bass with fondue of crab, fennel, and leeks, but you can also sample a juicy burger topped with red-pepper aioli. The selection of post-dinner desserts and cocktails is extensive—consider the mocha pot de crème (baked then chilled custard) with orange-scented beignets.