From ancient temples and places of refuge to historic churches, homes, farms, and ranches, West Hawaii is rich with fascinating destinations for experiencing the bygone eras of old Hawaii. This itinerary includes the Kona and South Kohala areas, as well as the towns of Hawi and Waimea.
Day 1: Kailua-Kona and South Kona
The first capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom established by King Kamehameha I in 1812, the town of Kailua-Kona is steeped in history. Stroll the grounds of the Courtyard by Marriott King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel, the site where the king spent his last years at Kamakahonu, the royal compound. Inside the hotel, historic artifacts and exhibits are displayed in the lobby. A reconstructed temple, Ahuena Heiau, sits sentry at the entrance to Kailua Bay by the pier. Kamehameha I met with advisers here and passed away here in 1819. Nearby, Hulihee Palace is one of three royal palaces in the state and the US. Docents lead guided tours, which showcase antique koa furnishings and artifacts of the day. Across the street, Mokuaikaua Church is the first Christian church in the state of Hawaii. It features a history room documenting the arrival of the first missionaries to Hawaii.
Drive south on Highway 11 to Kona Historical Society in upcountry Kealakekua on Mamalahoa Highway. The destination includes the H. N. Greenwell Store Museum (check opening hours). This area is a peaceful place to linger awhile, as there are coffee farm tours and tastings at the adjacent Greenwell Farms. A few miles further south on Mamalahoa Highway, the Kona Coffee Living History Farm in Captain Cook highlights farm life in the 1920s on a still-active coffee farm. Your next stop is Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, overlooking Honaunau Bay. This ancient sacred site offers self-guided walking tours through the royal compounds that once served as a refuge for lawbreakers and warriors fleeing battle. Before heading to the historical park, stop at ChoiceMart in Captain Cook and buy picnic items. The oceanfront picnic grounds at the park include barbecues, picnic tables, tide pools, and hiking trails.
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Logistics: You can walk around Kailua-Kona but will need a car for South Kona sites. When traveling south from Keauhou to Captain Cook, take the bypass road. Distance and time traveled: 44 miles round-trip, 35 minutes one way, starting in Kailua-Kona. Car, via Highway 11.
Day 2: South Kohala
Pack your bags for a beach day while you also explore some ancient sites of old Hawaii. While in downtown Kailua-Kona, have breakfast and drive to nearby Honokohau Harbor. At the farthest end of the parking lot, a beach access trail takes you to a sandy cove inside Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park. Swim the pristine bay or walk the boardwalk to see ancient petroglyphs. Drive north on Queen Kaahumanu Highway and grab a tasty to-go lunch at Pine Tree Cafe before heading to the popular Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area for the afternoon. After spending time at this white-sand beach, explore the nearby Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site, home to the last major temple built by Kamehameha I. Ruins of the massive temple are still intact, and there’s a small bay where black-tipped reef sharks pass over a submerged temple. For dinner, head back south down the highway to the Shops at Mauna Lani, where restaurants offer options for dinner. Queens’ Marketplace in Waikoloa has a food court with locally owned eateries.
Logistics: A car is needed. Distance and time traveled: 44 miles round-trip, 35 minutes one way, starting in Kailua-Kona. Car, via Queen Kaahumanu Highway.
Day 3: North Kohala and Waimea
Start your day with breakfast at the Kings’ Shops, where early-morning fare is served at several places at this lakeside retail and dining center in Waikoloa Beach Resort. Head north past the harborside town of Kawaihae to Lapakahi State Historical Park, site of an ancient fishing village revealing remnants of canoe houses, dwellings, and temples. Farther up the highway before the town of Hawi, turn west at the Upolu Airport turnoff and drive left of the airfield to King Kamehameha I’s birthplace, marked by a plaque. Park your car and hike south down the dirt road about a mile to the mysterious ruins of Mookini Heiau, which dates to AD 480 and was known for human sacrifices. An eerie vibe emanates from the moss-laden rock walls on the windswept cliffs above the ocean. During winter, this is a great spot to watch migrating humpback whales. Drive into the artists’ town of Hawi and eat lunch, then browse the galleries and stores. Continue past Hawi to the town of Kapaau, home to the original King Kamehameha statue; it towers above the highway on the grounds of the Kohala Information Center.
Take the scenic Kohala Mountain Road (Highway 250) to Waimea, in the heart of paniolo (cowboy) country. Two historic homes on Parker Ranch host visitor tours. Mana Hale, a home built of koa wood by John Parker Palmer in 1879, sits just below a “Hawaiian Victorian” manor house built in 1862. The manor house was the family home of six generations of Parkers, the last of whom was actor Richard Smart, who outfitted it with art, family portraits, and treasures from his world travels. The houses can be toured on weekdays (check schedule). Another historic site in Waimea, Anna Ranch Heritage Center, offers tours of the historic home that belonged to the legendary female equestrian and rancher Anna Lindsey Perry-Fiske. Before heading back home, eat dinner at one of Waimea’s acclaimed restaurants.
Logistics: This day involves some scenic driving. Factor about 35 miles from Waikoloa Beach Resort to Kapaau, and 22 miles from Kapaau to Waimea. It’s about a 15-minute drive from Waimea to the Kohala Coast resorts, and an hour or so drive from Waimea back to Kailua-Kona.