The Music of Cape Breton

Weaned on old-time Scottish tunes, Cape Breton Island’s traditional musicians are among the world's finest—and there’s a widely held belief (in Scotland, too) that here the music has been preserved in a purer form than in the old country itself. In summer you can hear these musicians play at festivals, concerts, and, of course, ceilidhs (pronounced KAY-lees). The word, Gaelic for "visit," derives from the days when folks would gather in a neighbor’s kitchen for music, stories, and step dancing. Today ceilidhs have evolved into public events that visitors are welcome to join. Bulletin boards, newspapers, and visitor information centers are a good source for listings. Inverness County, which encompasses the Ceilidh Trail and is the epicenter of activity, has its own ceilidh lineup online at www.inverness-ns.ca. Any night of the week in peak season, you’ll also be able to attend a square dance somewhere in Inverness County. Propelled by virtuoso fiddling, locals of every age whirl through taxing "square sets," shaking the floor and rattling the rafters in the process. The highlight of the musical calendar is undoubtedly the Celtic Colours International Festival, held every October at the height of the island’s spectacular fall-colors season. It gathers together Celtic musicians, singers, and dancers from around the corner and around the world for concerts and ceilidhs across the region.